We make a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands: we strive for the perfect result. Plasterboard suspended ceiling Plain plasterboard ceiling

Drywall has acquired the status of an indispensable material for repairs in an apartment. What they don’t make of it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention plasterboard suspended ceilings. Today we will fix this and give you detailed instructions with a video and step-by-step photos of our work.

What makes drywall ceilings better than ordinary plaster?

The ability to level any irregularities with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
In the frame, you can hide any communications, pipes, wires.
You can embed almost any directional lighting into the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly change the final look of the repair.
Finishing ceilings with plasterboard allows you to create single- and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well as.
In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
Installation of drywall on the ceiling is carried out by a dry method, so there will be no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly smooth surface.

However, filing the ceiling with drywall has its drawbacks:

Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
Difficult installation process for a novice master. Be sure to have a puncher and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
It's hard to deal with alone. At a minimum, during the sheathing, the help of a partner will be required.

Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons for yourself and make a choice - what you like best.

Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level design.

Required Tools

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials.

List of tools and accessories:

guide profiles 28*27 mm (PN);
ceiling profiles 60*27 mm (PP);
direct suspensions;
single-level profile connectors - crabs;
metal scissors;
self-adhesive sealing tape;
anchor wedges;
dowel-nails;
paint thread (cord-breaking device);
laser level or hydraulic level;
bubble level 2 m;
rule 2.5 m;
drywall sheets;
putty for seams;
sickle - reinforcing tape for seams;
perforator with a drill;
screwdriver;
hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
acrylic primer;
if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
extensions for profiles, if required;
spatula wide, narrow and angular;
standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.

This is such a long list, but you probably already have half.

Important nuances - what beginners need to know

To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown on the example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.

If you do not know which drywall is best for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By buying cheap low-quality profiles, you risk getting a sagging ceiling over your head.

- As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is based on the physical law of communicating vessels, so it will need to be filled with water to work. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make marks and then connect them with painter's thread. In general, you can’t do without a hydro level if you don’t have a laser level, because you are tormented by the usual bubble level to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
- The manufacture of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: it contains hydrophobic additives. These two types differ in the color of cardboard: moisture-resistant green, and ordinary - gray.

Each type of drywall has its own color

- Plasterboard ceiling sheathing usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
- The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.

Ceiling markings and rail fasteners

- First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there are fixtures.
- Now, using the hydro level, make marks at the same level as the first point on each corner.

Cord-breaker for marking the wall (painting cord)

- Now you need to make a beating to evenly connect all the points with a horizontal line. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply so that it hits the wall - the paint on the cord will leave an even imprint. Make lines around the entire perimeter of the room.

Taping with masking tape

Before hemming the ceiling with drywall, we recommend that you make notes about the position of the profiles on the walls. So it will be easier to look for them when attaching sheets to the frame.

- Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the bottom edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the finished holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if there are none, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.

Then you need to glue the sealing tape on the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We fasten at least 3 dowels.
Next, mark up the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, usually the profiles are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to fix the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, make lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
With such a small step of ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the suspension pitch for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times smaller, for us 50 cm will be optimal. It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be twice as close to the wall, therefore 50:2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in increments of 50 cm.
For marking, attach the suspension at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.

Frame installation

- We fix the hangers with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling a little with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also do not forget to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you fix the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer sag, otherwise the profiles will not be fixed unevenly.

Profile extension attachment

- Now you can start installing ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them with metal shears 1cm shorter than the room. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile.

Note! When building a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.

- Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so as not to sag) to the two rails that form an angle (i.e. the rule should be diagonal). This way it will maintain your profile at the level of the guides. At this point, you will screw the profile to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not hang out, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
- The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles on the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check for evenness with a long level. After attaching the hangers, bend the excess length of the ends up.

- In the same way, fasten the second profile, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
- Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are fastened with the help of special single-level mounts - crabs. In the right places, screw the crabs on 4 self-tapping screws. If you retreat from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.

Fasteners for suspended frame

Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. It is not necessary to fasten the jumpers to the profiles from below, they will be fixed by drywall.
If necessary, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to the suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

If you want to see the installation of a plasterboard ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:

Fastening drywall to frame

Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. However, it can only be stored in a horizontal position.

Self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed

Start fastening drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty then penetrates well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it there.
Start fastening the sheet from the corner with a pitch of 20 cm screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw the screws at different levels, in a run. Their hats should be recessed so that they do not stick out, check this by touch.
Attach the sheets to each other in a run-up, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined closely, there should be a gap of 2 mm around the perimeter. The GK sheet must be fixed along the perimeter (including to the wall guides), and in the center.

Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If you do not make a joint at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.

Material counting

Now that you know the installation of a drywall false ceiling, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of installing it. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.

Ceiling scheme

For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:

99 suspensions;
8 sheets of drywall;
19 ceiling profiles;
8 guides;
24 crabs.

The approximate price of installation work for hired workers is about 400 rubles per square. You can calculate the benefit if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, it turns out a good benefit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.

Seam sealing

Now let's talk about the last stage - how to putty the plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait for it to dry. No need to tear the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this.

- Dilute the putty according to the instructions on the package. First seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it in, and then align the recess along the edges of the sheets with a wide spatula.

Note! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing plasterboards with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.

A new type of Knauf edge allows you to apply putty into the seams more densely

- When the putty dries, stick self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) on the seams. Glue it overlap at the intersections. Dilute a little more putty and cover the sickle and the remaining small irregularities. Puttying the plasterboard ceiling in the corners is best done with an angled spatula.
- So you minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints. To enhance the effect, you can. Now the surface is ready for further puttying in the usual way. If you still have small protrusions after sealing the seams, then the finishing layer will hide everything.

In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe a ceiling with drywall, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We have described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is a fairly simple solution. A plasterboard suspended ceiling can be made your own using step-by-step instructions. The functionality and technical characteristics of drywall make this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by the modern construction market. GKL is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels the ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level plasterboard suspended ceiling will look spectacular if supplemented with original lighting.

Gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling: materials and tools

Most of the tools used in the installation can replace each other. Therefore, when compiling a list, it is worth focusing on those that you have at home. To install a false ceiling you will need:

pencil, building or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
puncher or impact drill for making holes for dowels and self-tapping screws;
screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
a hacksaw for metal and a construction knife.

profile;
drywall;
fasteners;
metal screws, dowels 6 mm.

To perform the finishing of drywall, you need:

mesh-serpyanka;
sealing tape;
primer;
putty;
roller or brush;
spatula (large and medium);
fine-grained sandpaper;
acrylic or water-based paint.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling - profile

For mounting the suspension system, two types of profiles are used:

guides. They are installed along the walls along a horizontal line that outlines the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
ceiling. Made in the shape of the letter "C" and are metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a false ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install plasterboard suspended ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material labeled moisture resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material to retain its original qualities throughout the entire service life, despite the high level of humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface from the living room or bedroom, you can buy a regular gray plasterboard with a sheet thickness of 8-10 mm. It does not make sense to take sheets of greater thickness for self-assembly of the structure. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling - Fasteners

Fasteners - the parts on which the suspended ceiling will be held.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements, you will need:

straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
extensions are used to build a profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as suspension fasteners. To connect two pieces of the profile, as well as fix the frame to the concrete floor, galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are fixed to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before starting the installation of a false ceiling made of plasterboard with our own hands, we make markings for the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the lower corner in the room, we retreat down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the draft ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance, taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed fixtures, which can be increased up to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level in your work; in large rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. After you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. Elements should be located from each other at a distance of a multiple of the width of the GCR. For example, drywall sheets are produced with a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, the profiles are best fixed in increments of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are made on the lines that were drawn to fasten the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with regular-shaped rectangles and a side length of 50x60 cm.

Installation of a suspended structure frame for a plasterboard ceiling - step by step instructions

In the photo, the frame of the suspended structure from the profile

The frame for the GKL false ceiling is mounted as follows:

on the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach a UD profile to the wall;
we install suspensions that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base with the help of two dowel-nails;
before proceeding to the installation of the ceiling CD-profile, we check the evenness of the structure with the help of a nylon thread stretched under the base of the false ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with suspensions;
we first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fix the strips in the hangers;
we fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. With their ends they will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal, transverse ceiling profiles and plasterboard sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. The small gap left during installation of the structure will act as a ventilation system, allowing air to circulate freely between the ceiling base and the grid.

How to properly lengthen the profile

Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, and therefore there are situations when the length of the CD profile is not enough, so you have to increase it. The easiest way, which is used by most professional builders, is to extend the profile using special one-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

we insert the connector inside the profile;
from the other end of the connector we insert the end of another profile strip;
we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, we bend the edges of the profile with pliers;
Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw the screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is extended. For example:

elongation using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
rack profiles in drywall construction are sometimes connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases, when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding to the final stage of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the GKL sheets need to be given time to adapt to the climatic conditions of the room. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When sheathing the ceiling, proceed as follows:

cut the chamfer from the ends of the GKL sheet with a knife at an angle of 45 ° by 5 mm;
start fastening the first sheet from any corner in the room to self-tapping screws after 15 cm along the edges and after 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the GKL;
at the junction of two adjacent sheets, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the plasterboard and the wall;
pay attention to the fact that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. The recess will subsequently be sealed with putty;
proceeding in a similar way, sheathe the entire frame with drywall. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

UD profile. The standard length of the elements is 3-4 meters. To determine the required number of planks, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a higher value;
cd profile. In this case, the standard size of the GKL sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option is mounting in width. With this method, material waste will be much less.

On one sheet of GKL you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing the plasterboard false ceiling is long and the profile needs to be extended, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

suspensions. The first element is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, five hangers must be purchased;
transverse jumpers are usually made from CD-profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
single-level crab connectors are also fastened every 50 cm between hangers. Thus, five crabs are needed for one profile 2.5 m long.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a false ceiling.

As for the dowels and self-tapping screws, the profile on the dowels is attached to the wall every 30-40 cm from each other. Suspensions are also fixed on the dowels, and two fasteners are needed for one suspension.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pcs per hanger). To install one crab, 8 self-tapping screws are required.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface, dividing it by the same indicator for one sheet.

Sealing joints when installing a plasterboard ceiling

Making a false ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part of the finishing work. It is necessary to close the seams and cracks on the new structure in such a way that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junction of the elements that ugly gaps are formed, which can disperse over time. To avoid such a nuisance, you need to carry out quality work to strengthen them:

clean the joints from dust with a dry sponge or paint brush;
Apply a deep-penetrating primer to all joints, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the joint. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
after the primer has dried, stick a sickle tape on the joints;
prepare a special solution for Knauf seams. Gently apply the mass to the joints and press it in with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of the composition;
after it dries, using fine-grained sandpaper, rub all puttied places, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
if you are going to paint your structure, you need to finish the ceiling with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to staining.

As you can see, installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, correctly calculate and choose materials. Then the self-assembled structure will delight with its appearance for a long time.

Video: plasterboard suspended ceiling

Along with the rapid development of the building materials and technology industry, whitewashed or water-based paint ceiling tiles have irretrievably sunk into the past. In modern reality, there are many ways to decorate ceilings, which, to varying degrees, can give coziness and comfort to both the living room and the public space, one of these ways is a do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling.

You can use a low-cost method and paste over the floor panels with foam ceiling "squares", but the aesthetics and design of such a ceiling will leave much to be desired.

Thanks to an affordable price and decent quality, stretch ceilings have gained a high level of popularity among Russians. But it will be very difficult for a home master to realize his own design ideas without special equipment and certain skills.

Advantages of plasterboard ceiling

The optimal solution for decorative ceiling decoration is gypsum plasterboard (GKL). Creating an original plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands is not a super task for any home craftsman. Due to the physical and technological properties of modern building material, the following advantages of its use in the construction of a suspended ceiling can be distinguished:

Formation of the ideal plane of the ceiling covering.
The combination of rigidity and lightness of the material makes it possible to mount multi-level ceiling structures.
Possibility to install a decorative lighting system from LED spotlights with local illumination of individual ceiling elements.
The manufacturability of GKL processing allows you to create three-dimensional architectural forms of a complex curvilinear configuration.
Finishing the ceiling allows for repeated updating or changing the color of the coating.
The low cost of raw materials and linear production technology make it possible to keep the cost of building materials at an affordable level.

When choosing the optimal solution, it is necessary to be guided not only by your financial capabilities: “glue”, “stretch” and “create” - these verbs imply not only a different design result, but also the satisfaction of the master from the final result of his work.

Finishing the ceiling with drywall with your own hands includes several stages:

Project preparation.
Calculation of the need for consumables.
The need for a tool.
Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard sheets.
Ceiling pre-finishing and finishing.

Attention! When installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, do not forget about protective equipment - goggles and a respirator. Health is more important than your repair!

Project preparation

On the World Wide Web, you can find photos of many interesting design solutions for ceilings using GKL. With the help of drywall, you can create multi-level structures, and harmoniously inscribed lamps will add originality and attractiveness to the future ceiling.

When preparing a project, do not forget about two key parameters of the repaired premises:

Total area. In a room with an area of 8-14 sq.m. the design of a multi-level ceiling is likely to be underestimated. With a small area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the angle of visual perception will not allow you to adequately focus your eyes on the elements of the ceiling decor. Area over 14 sq.m. gives more opportunities for the use of architectural delights and light sources built into the ceiling. Any interesting ideas can be implemented on a ceiling area exceeding 20 sq.m.
Ceiling height. It must be remembered that a too bulky ceiling design will visually reduce the volume of the room and create unnecessary discomfort for the people inside. It makes sense to start working on a project of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling with a ceiling height of at least 2.5 m in the room.

The results of the project can be drawn in special programs with their 3D visualization, and in the absence of such an opportunity, on plain paper, indicating all linear geometric dimensions.

Calculation of the need for consumables

Drywall. A standard sheet of drywall has dimensions of 1200 x 2500 mm and an area of 3 square meters. m. Knowing the future configuration of the ceiling, you can easily calculate the required volume of drywall sheet, taking into account waste.
To select the type of drywall used in the project, it is necessary to take into account the humidity and flammability of the room. Depending on the additives in the gypsum core and the impregnation of the cardboard with special compounds, ordinary, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-fire-resistant gypsum boards are distinguished. The belonging of the material to a particular type can be determined by the color of the sheet itself and by the color of the marking.
Elements of the metal frame. Guide profile (PN 28/27) and ceiling profile (PP 60/27). The PN profile is rigidly attached to the walls through dowels and serves as a contour for the future metal frame. The PP profile is inserted into the PN profile, connected to it with self-tapping screws and attached to the ceiling with suspensions on anchor bolts. A perforated arched profile is used to give a curved shape.
The guide profile is mounted on 4 walls, its need is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling. The ceiling profile is installed with a grid with a cell of 400 or 600 mm, depending on the size of the opening.
When installing a metal frame under the GKL, there are 2 types of profiles:

Connecting elements and hardware. To fasten the guide profiles to the wall, plastic dowels 6x60 or 8x60 with a corresponding self-tapping screw are used. Suspensions to the existing ceiling are best fixed with anchor bolts, since a plastic dowel does not give a 100% guarantee that the structure will hold a significant weight. Between themselves, the elements of the metal frame are connected by self-tapping screws for metal 2x16 with a press washer. The parts cut out of the GKL are attached to the metal frame with 3x25 metal screws with a pitch of 250 mm.
Hangers rigidly fix the ceiling profiles to the existing floor panels and are installed 300 mm from the guide profile with a subsequent step of 600 mm. The required number of hangers can be calculated by dividing the total length of the PP profile by 0.6 and taking a margin of 10%. For butt jointing of ceiling profiles and stiffening of the cellular frame, metal connectors for extension, crabs, T-shaped connectors and connectors in 2 levels are used.

Tool Need

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on the ceiling requires the following tool:

High-quality level 1500 mm long, and for the convenience of work also a short level (300 mm).
A tape measure and a marker for drawing risks can be found in the arsenal of any home master.
The absence of a chopping thread can be replaced with a long level, but the absence of a square will be problematic to replace.
To cut parts of the desired length from the profile, you will need scissors for metal. Expensive scissors will initially provide comfort during work. But, it is far from a fact that their spring-loaded spin mechanism will last a long time. It is quite acceptable to have an old sample made of good tool steel.
For drilling holes in load-bearing structures in the absence of a powerful hammer drill, it is quite possible to get by with a drill with an impact mode and a corresponding drill with a high-quality victorious tip.
You can find a lot of information about the advantages and disadvantages of cordless screwdrivers on the net. But to mount a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands or the simplest ceiling structure without his participation is out of the question.
For cutting drywall sheet of any thickness and brand, an ordinary construction knife is suitable. The main thing is to stock up on a set of replacement blades for it in a timely manner.
To ensure comfortable working conditions, the home master will need a stepladder and telescopic stops for intermediate fixing of plasterboard parts. However, homemade props made of a wooden block will not work much worse.

The main task of this stage of work is to bind the future plasterboard ceiling to the horizon line. Using the level, find the corner of the room with the lowest point of the ceiling. Stepping back down by 35 mm (the width of the PN profile plus a small margin for measurement error), a control risk is given. The transfer of the control risk relative to the horizon to other angles is carried out by the same level.

After the final marking of the plane, a guide profile is drilled to the supporting structures of the walls, which ensures rigid fixation of the ceiling geometry relative to the horizon line. Docking of the length of the existing profile without connecting strips is allowed.

A ceiling profile is placed in the profile guides and temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer. After this operation, the hangers are fixed to the ceiling with anchor bolts in increments of 600 mm. The final installation of ceiling profiles in a given geometric position is carried out by double-sided connection of a bent suspension and a profile through a self-tapping screw. The parts of the suspensions protruding beyond the plane of the ceiling are cut off with scissors for metal or bent along the existing cuts. Operation execution is controlled by a short level.

The cell in the metal frame system and the difference between the height levels of the ceiling is formed by the corresponding connectors.

Installation of internal electrical wiring is carried out under the metal frame until the final closing of the plasterboard ceiling. Two-core copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 square meters. mm in PVC insulation, it is recommended to additionally lay in a fire-resistant corrugated cable channel.

If it is necessary to connect light sources in parallel, the wiring connections are laid in closed junction boxes. To increase the length of the electric cable, special "terminals" with a diameter corresponding to the cable section are used. The output ends of the cable are cut at a distance of 150 mm from the point of output of the energy consumer.

Installing a backlit drywall ceiling with your own hands is much easier than it really seems. The whole secret lies in the correct design of the location of spotlights and the accuracy of the installation of electrical wiring leads.

Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard sheets

Cutting and installation of parts from the GKL can only be started after the ceiling is completely tied with metal frame elements. Given the low fracture resistance of drywall sheets, it is recommended to store the sheets in a vertical position with two or three wooden linings installed down. Marking and cutting GKL is carried out both in a horizontal and vertical position. To effectively cut drywall, there is no need for multiple cuts with a construction knife - just one deep cut is enough.

If the work on installing a false ceiling is carried out by a home master alone, then it makes sense to cut whole sheets into smaller elements. In this case, it will be much easier to install them. It is important to combine the joint of the drywall sheet with the PP profile installed in the metal frame, followed by puttying the joint.

Before installing the part from the GKL, it is necessary to mark and cut a hole for the lamps. Cutting an octagonal hole with subsequent finishing to a circle is an order of magnitude faster than cutting a circle.

Before installing the cut out part, it is necessary to apply centering risks to visible places for each profile of the metal frame.

Drilling the sheet must be started from one corner simultaneously in two directions with a self-tapping pitch of 250 - 300 mm. Self-tapping screws at the junction of the elements of the metal frame will give it additional rigidity. It is important to ensure that the head of the screwed-in self-tapping screw is slightly sunk into the GKL plane. This can be achieved by adjusting the "ratchet" on the screwdriver or using a special bit with a limiter.

To hold large format parts in a vertical position, it is recommended to use purchased telescopic rods or wooden stops made independently to the height of the repaired room.

Ceiling pre-finishing and finishing

The dry plaster mixture is evenly poured into cold water in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the package, and stirred until a homogeneous creamy state. To prepare the batch, it is recommended to use a mixer attachment to an electric drill. Unlike manual mixing, the performance and quality of the putty mixture will be an order of magnitude higher.

In the process of pre-finishing, joints and caps of self-tapping screws are puttied. After the putty has completely dried, it is cleaned with an emery mesh and the defects are corrected.

Finishing puttying is carried out by uniformly applying a thin layer of putty mixture to the entire surface of the ceiling with a wide spatula, followed by cleaning.

Now we will delight everyone in your house with a do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling.

Thinking about how to design a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? For a knowledgeable person, it is not difficult to implement such an idea, and for a beginner it is a completely solvable task. This is a great way to save money and learn an important skill if you're doing it for the first time. Having mastered the ceiling, it will not be difficult for you to make slopes, piers, sheathe the walls with this material. Drywall is very popular, almost no repair is complete without its use. And there are a number of reasons for this.

Drywall, a sheet of which consists of gypsum lined with cardboard, is absolutely environmentally friendly. It does not release toxins and is non-allergic. Therefore, ceilings from it are made in bedrooms, children's rooms and any other residential premises.
Its surface is smooth, even and without cracks. Perfect for both painting and wallpapering.
Good sound absorption, thermal insulation qualities.
The ability to create an original ceiling design, for example, the construction of a multi-level structure using stucco.
Plasticity (sheets can be bent, moistened before that, and then, dried with warm air, used to finish curved surfaces).
It helps to hide communications (ventilation ducts, water pipes, various cables), use built-in types of fixtures.

So, having appreciated all the advantages, you decided to equip the suspended ceiling using this finishing material. The next step is to choose a specific variety.

Varieties of drywall, their properties

GKL - plasterboard sheet, lined on both sides with soft cardboard glued to the surface of the plaster. The standard length of such sheets can be 2000, and 2500, and 2600, and 2750, and 3000 mm, and the width is 1200 mm. They are 12.5 and 9.5 mm thick. For residential areas, it is better to use 9.5 to lighten the weight of the structure. Finished with gray cardboard.
GKLO - fire-resistant plasterboard. It is usually not used in apartments, but only in industries, for finishing air ducts, communication shafts.
GKLV - waterproof plasterboard. They are used in bathrooms and kitchens, bathrooms, but only if there is exhaust ventilation and protection of the front surface with waterproofing compounds, ceramic tiles, waterproof paints, primers or ceramic tiles. Finished with green cardboard.
GKLVO - moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard sheet of increased fire resistance. Combines the properties of all of the above.
GVL - gypsum fiber sheets. They are not covered with cardboard. Gypsum is reinforced with special fluffed cellulose waste paper. Such sheets have increased hardness and resistance to flame. They correspond to the standard dimensions of an ordinary sheet, but their thickness is greater - 6 or 10 mm.
GVLV - moisture resistant gypsum-fiber sheets.

Installation and installation of a suspended ceiling

This is a design of 4 main elements:

1. Drywall sheets.

Sheets of moisture resistant drywall

2. Ceiling guide profiles UD (28-27 mm) and main ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm). Guides - fastened to the wall just below the ceiling level along the entire room around the perimeter. The main bearing profiles (longitudinal) are already inserted into them. Between them are the main secondary (transverse) profiles. Drywall sheets are attached to these profiles (both longitudinal and transverse). They can be recognized by the C-shaped curved edges, longitudinal corrugations and stiffeners.

Connection of the main ceiling profile and wall guide

3. Direct suspensions (universal) and with a clamp. Most often, direct universal U-shaped suspensions are used, which are attached to the main ceiling, and the main profiles are already attached to them. Suspensions have frequent holes in the side parts. This allows you to screw the profile to them at different heights, adjusting it.

The location of the hangers on the base ceiling

4. Connecting elements: anchors and dowels, with which suspensions are attached to the ceiling, crab fasteners - fasten the main longitudinal with the main transverse profiles, dowels that attach the guide profiles to the wall.

Usually frames, consisting of profiles on suspensions, are divided into two types: single-level and multi-level.

Plasterboard ceilings, respectively, too.

To install a plasterboard ceiling, you will need the following tools:

Level (preferably water)
Roulette
Drill with a perforator with various nozzles: for mixing the solution, for drilling (drill), for cutting the necessary holes for the lamps)
screwdriver
A simple triangle or square (to measure right angles)
Paint cord breaker or pencil
Construction hacksaw
fishing line
Plane
Ceiling spotlight

For the final stage of leveling the ceiling you will need:

Sandpaper
Putty knife
putty
construction knife
Container for putty
Reinforcing tape

How to make a plasterboard ceiling: step by step instructions

After all the materials, tools and components are prepared, you can proceed with the installation.

1. First, we determine how much the new suspended ceiling will be below the base one. You will have to sacrifice at least 10 cm, because a standard built-in lamp will take 9 cm in height.

2. We make markings on the walls around the entire perimeter for attaching guide profiles. For these purposes, in all corners, we measure the height of the room. Having chosen the lowest angle, we mark the required distance from the floor (namely from the floor, but not from the ceiling), we mark the horizontal line along the entire wall using the water level. The lines can be beaten off with a masking cord at the points indicated by the level.

3. We drill holes for dowels in the wall along the wall lines in increments of 30-40 ms, then fasten the guide profiles.

4. Now we mount suspensions on the ceiling in increments of 60-70 cm, having previously outlined parallel lines, i.e. making markings to serve as a guide.

5. Insert the main profiles into the guides.

Gypsum ceiling frame: main profiles inserted into rails and connected to hangers

6. We fasten the main profiles to the suspensions, then bend them. For evenness, it is desirable to pull the fishing line or cord.

7. We attach the main secondary profiles to the main profiles. They are fixed in places where it is planned to join drywall sheets. It turns out a kind of metal lattice, which is a single-level frame.

8. We lay wires for future wiring. Do not forget to cut grooves through which the cable will pass. The grooves must be located in the wall from the switch to the ceiling. After running the cable, do the wiring in the ceiling, let out the free ends for the lamps in the predetermined places.

9. The next step is to attach drywall to the frame.

Fastening the material to the frame

After the metal frame is built, it is necessary to attach plasterboard sheets to it. This is not an easy procedure, the implementation of which is divided into several stages:

Fastening a drywall sheet to a metal frame: horizontal control with a spirit level

1. Cut with a hacksaw - special, with fine teeth (or a regular clerical knife). It is best to cut sheets of 120x250 or 120x125 cm. The main thing is that the ends of the sheet exactly fall on the supporting frame laths. Sheets should lie on a flat surface (preferably on a table) horizontally. Next, along the level, run along the drywall with a knife from the front side. Then slide the sheet off the table and break it. Then turn over and cut the cardboard on the other side.

2. The edge formed after the cut is treated with a planer. It should turn out smooth, without kinks. All protruding edges are trimmed with a sharp knife.

3. Cut holes for recessed lights and ceiling outlets. They should be carefully measured, determining the exact location on the sheet, then marked, and then cut out with a drill with the right nozzle or a hacksaw. If pipes will pass through the drywall, then the diameter of the hole must be made> 10 than the diameter of the pipe.

4. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard. Gypsum boards can be attached to frames in two ways: longitudinal and transverse. With transverse fastening, they are located perpendicular to the main load-bearing metal profiles. With longitudinal - in parallel with the main bearing profiles. If there are additional laths, then the fastening of the sheets must be carried out from their corner in two perpendicular directions. If there are no additional laths, then fastening is carried out from the end of the sheet or from its center. Self-tapping screws are installed 10-15 mm from the edge of the sheets. Screws are installed from the front surface of the sheet perpendicularly and to such a depth that their heads cannot penetrate the cardboard and do not protrude above the front surface. They must also fit into the metal frame > 10 mm deep. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected based on the total thickness of the planned drywall sheathing. The maximum allowable distance from one self-tapping screw to another is 150 mm. This value can be doubled if tiled repeatedly. In the guide profile, the screws must be installed closer to its rear wall, then the screw will not be able to bend the profile shelf inward. Cardboard should not be disheveled in places where screws will be attached. If the screws are deformed or were placed by mistake, then they are removed and new ones are placed at a distance not< 50 мм от неудачного места крепления.

Important! The joints of the sheets must be located on the profile!

Gypsum boards do not need to be made close to the walls. It is better not to putty the gap, but to cover it with a ceiling corner. Then, in case of expansion of the plates, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the ceiling. When directly attaching the plates to the ceiling, you need to work together, or use props.

The plates should be placed horizontally, adjusted to each other and screwed to the frame with screws.

Important! Before installation, drywall must not< 2-х суток вылежаться в помещении, в котором он будет монтирован. Тогда он приобретет влажность и температуру помещения.

5. Puttying joints. Do not spat immediately. Wait 2 days. Then inspect the joints for defects and eliminate them. Clean the surface from particles and dust. It is better to use reinforcing tape, laying it in all joints. It prevents cracking. If you use expensive, high-quality putty, then it is enough to process only the joints (and then paint over fiberglass from an airbrush), if cheap, then you should putty the entire ceiling, and then paint with a roller. Sequencing:

- clean the edges of the seam, moisten them, fill the seams with putty, pressing it with a spatula;
- having applied the main layer of putty, lay the reinforcing tape, pressing it with a spatula. Do not leave air bubbles. Cover the surface of the tape with a thin layer of putty and wait for complete drying;
- sand the joints with sandpaper;
- apply a layer of putty on a pre-dried layer;
- apply another leveling layer of putty and allow to dry;
- Remove irregularities with sandpaper.

Second level ceiling device

Installation of the second level of the plasterboard ceiling: the construction of a curly frame

Plan in advance, draw a drawing, outline it on the ceiling.
Beat off the height of the second from the first level of the ceiling.
We fix the guide profile.
We make installation of the main guides of the second level to the main guides, stiffeners of the first.
We bend the profile for the required radius sections.
We spread the wires under the lamps.
We cut out the plate of the desired shape and fasten it, as in the first level.
We cut out a strip of drywall and close the box.
We install lamps.
Plastering.

If you strictly follow the above instructions, then there will be no questions left on how to fix drywall to the ceiling. You can do everything thoughtfully and accurately. It is enough to show patience, make an effort, and you can get an excellent do-it-yourself ceiling design.

Today we will analyze how to install the simplest single-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. In another way, it is often called a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what will be needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of the GK-sheets, and also how to avoid cracks. Go!

Pros and cons of drywall as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering

The main advantages of the material:

Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on the ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
The Civil Code allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) the existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
Plasterboard ceiling allows you to realize almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting;
Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, niches for lighting;
Relative ease of construction;
The possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
No "wet" processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.

Disadvantages of drywall:

A significant reduction in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed fixtures) by at least 5 cm;
The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
The potential for cracks to appear at the joints of sheets in the future (we will look at how to avoid this);
The need for the help of a partner.

Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, it is impossible to unequivocally recommend it or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a particular room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.

In this article, we will consider the most common way to install a false ceiling with your own hands - in one level on direct suspensions.

Tools and accessories

Necessary accessories for plasterboard ceiling installation:

Guide profiles PN 28×27 mm.
Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm.
Sealing tape.
Anchor wedges.
“Dowel-nails” (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm, and even more fuss with them).
Cord breaking device.
Hydraulic level / laser plane builder.
Bubble building level 2 m.
Rule aluminum 2.5 m.
Drywall sheets.
Putty for seams GK (Uniflot).
Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
Roulette.
A hammer.
Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code).
Perforator + drill.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Acrylic primer.
Single-level connectors CRAB.
Metal scissors.
Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
Profile extensions (if required).
A set of spatulas (narrow, wide and for corners).

In the picture, all accessories follow in order:

It should be noted right away that much of what is now sold in hardware stores under the guise of profiles and suspensions is just foil. We offer to opt for Knauf products - you can recognize their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.

A few words about the hydraulic level. It consists of two small flasks with water connected by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes horizontal marking with its help extremely accurate. When installing the ceiling, you can’t do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of a room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.

With the hydraulic level, we only need to mark the corners, and then connect them by applying a “beat” (this is the simple name for a string fender). There are many types of drywall sheets. You and I need to know only two: ordinary and moisture resistant. It is unnecessary to say something additional about the first type, but the second one is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in gypsum. To distinguish these two species from each other is very simple - by color. Ordinary drywall has the color of plain cardboard - gray. Moisture-resistant sheets have a greenish color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.

Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. It is necessary for tight mating of frame elements with supporting structures, it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to expand / contract slightly.

Marking, mounting guides

First we need to determine the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner, it is advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, suddenly the ceiling is sagging. We found the lowest corner, retreated 5 cm (if recessed fixtures are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), put a mark. From this mark, using the hydraulic level, set aside the horizontal to all other corners. Now it remains to connect the labels with a spacer. Together with an assistant, pull the cord properly between the marks on one wall, pull it with your free hand and release it sharply. The cord, hitting the wall, will color it - here you have the finished horizontal. We do the same for all walls. Here's what we get:

It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark the future holes along the finished holes with a marker (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional holes with a perforator, stepping back from the edges by 5–10 cm), then put it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. Again we take the profile and stick a sealing tape on it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix the dowel-nails to the wall. There must be at least three attachment points per profile. Here's what happens in the end:

Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide which profiles to call. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with suspensions, and the carrier profiles are those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (so it is less likely that they will have to be increased). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the step of the profiles must be less than an integer number of times. Usually it is 40 cm. We mark out:

Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall under the horizontal line.

Carriers (with such a step of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the GCR, that is, their “step” is 2.5 m, which means that the step of the suspensions should be less than an integer number of times. 50 cm is suitable for us, but the first row of suspensions will not be 50, but 50/2 \u003d 25 cm from the wall, the next one will be 25 + 50 \u003d 75 cm, etc.

For marking, we take a suspension, apply it to the ceiling at the right points and mark with a marker the places for holes for anchor wedges. For one suspension, at least two are required.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a suspended ceiling frame

We wait until the dust settles, stuff the pockets with anchor wedges and fasten the hangers. Don't forget to stick the sealing tape on them first. After fixing the hanger, carefully pull its ends down; during the subsequent fastening of the main profiles, they should not bend.

Now let's install the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, we lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching profiles to suspensions from the corners of the room. Your assistant will need to attach the rule to the guides on the walls, forming an angle, the grip is as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will stand on the same level with the guides. Your task at this moment is to fix it to the suspension on both sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws with a press washer are best taken without a drill. You will do it longer, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fixed it near one corner, we also fix it near the second. If it is not possible to fix the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply attach a rule along it from below, then we will fix it without any problems. We bend the excess length of the suspensions up (or pre-cut it, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.

Using the same method, we hang the second profile, relying so far only on the guides. Then we go to the opposite wall, we mount 2 more main PCBs. If there are more between these four, we expose them, relying on the already fixed ones. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as it becomes possible, we use the already fixed profiles to expose the rest.

You can pull the cord and expose it, but the cords tend to sag, besides, in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile during vibration from a screwdriver. Let's look at our result:

Now we hang CRABs on the places where the profiles will join, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two per side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, please note that then you will have to insert the CRABs into the main PCB BEFORE they are installed. In general, make sure that the connectors pass over the profiles.

As soon as all the CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the margin of 1 cm) and insert them into them, fixing them with four self-tapping screws, each. Please note, we DO NOT fasten the carrier to the guide at the bottom with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will stick together when we sew the sheets. If it is required to make soundproofing of the ceiling, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles slightly larger than the frame cells and simply pushed into them, additionally clinging to the curved suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on the frame. When working with it, use gloves and a respirator - the thing is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands,.

Video: Suspended ceiling from Knauf sheets

Installation of drywall on the frame

Important: before starting the installation of drywall sheets, they must necessarily undergo acclimatization in the room - a couple of days, at least. In addition, the storage of sheets of the Civil Code is only allowed in a horizontal position.

Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - chamfer with a knife at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet (of course, approximately); this applies to end edges that are not pasted over with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm, on adjacent sheets, the screws must be screwed in different directions. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the one we cut. The heads should be slightly recessed, but do not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least by a step of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap between them (2 mm), by the way, between the sheets and the walls - too . If the self-tapping screw does not stubbornly pierce the frame, we throw out and screw in another one, stepping back from the hole 5 cm.

We also attach to the guide profile. Surely there will be people who believe that this cannot be done - they say, this is what Knauf technology claims, for this it was necessary to insert the carrier profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no screws through the guide profile.

Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, we turn to Giprok's materials, and there we see the following:

Self tapping in place! But another one is missing here - the one that should be in the carrier profile! But Knauf is the opposite!

So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Do not allow sheet joints near the outer corner:

This rule also works in the case of multi-level ceilings in the absence of a wall:

The joint must be at least 10 cm from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens with an almost inevitable crack.

Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the floor plan of the main ceiling of our virtual room:

Now we know the whole technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we need in reality. According to the drawing, we used: 99 suspensions, 8 sheets of civil code, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.

Seam sealing

Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait for the primer to dry completely. When sealing, special extra strong putties are used. Knead a little, following the instructions on the bag. We hammer in all the seams with the first layer: both “ours” and factory ones (first we fill in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as recesses from self-tapping screws. For factory ones, you will need a wide spatula. Particular care should be taken to fill the factory seams near the walls, now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out.

We are waiting for the putty to grab, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of joints, a special Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt paper tape is used. On the factory edges, the tape fits into the Uniflot layer, after which it is covered with it. On cut edges, you can also use Uniflot, or you can glue the tape on PVA so that it does not stick out so much. If you glue on Uniflot - pre-moisten the tape in water, otherwise it may turn out that you will not be able to expel a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and you will form a bump. And if the tape is moistened, the putty will glide well on it. At the corners, we recommend using a special spatula - with it everything will turn out faster and better. Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for the convenience of gluing on inner corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but that's okay - this is corrected by subsequent puttying the entire surface.

Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent puttying. We minimized the possibility of cracks on the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility, we use it. It is glued to the entire area, previously already puttied, puttied again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price of the issue is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.