Concrete floor on the ground in a private house. How to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands - a step by step plan

In private houses, floors are usually created directly on the ground, they are quite cheap and simple in design. Floors on the ground are equipped on the first floors of private houses with strip foundations, and clay, cement or concrete can be used to equip them. The most popular is the concrete floor on the ground. There are several reasons for this: firstly, concrete is publicly available, secondly, it is cheap, thirdly, a concrete floor has the greatest strength and durability, and, in addition, it is quite simple to make it. Work on the creation of such floors can be performed without special skills, the main thing is to know what and how to do.

Conditions for arranging a concrete floor on the ground

The device of the floor on the ground imposes certain requirements on the soils themselves. The soil must be dry, the groundwater level must be at a depth of at least 4-5 m, the soil must not be mobile. It makes sense to do a concrete floor on the ground in the case when the basement or basement is provided for in the project of the house. In addition, the house must be residential and heated during the cold period, because in winter the soil freezes, thereby increasing the load on the foundation and deforming the structure.

Concrete floor installation on the ground

Scheme of the device floor on the ground

We begin all flooring work after the walls have been erected and the roof has been built. This will ensure the quality of further work. The process of arranging the floor itself consists of the following steps:

• marking the level of the concrete floor;
• clearing and compacting the soil;
• laying gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• hydro and thermal insulation;
• reinforcement;
• installation of guides and formwork;
• pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor.

Marking the level of the concrete floor

We outline the "zero" level of the floor

We set the level of the concrete floor to "zero" with the bottom of the doorway and apply it around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to put marks on the wall at a level of 1 m from the bottom of the doorway. Then transfer the marks to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room and measure from them and mark back 1 m down. The resulting line will be the “zero” level to which concrete must be poured. To make it easier to navigate, you can drive nails along this line in the corners of the room and pull a cord over them.

Clearing and compacting the soil

Now we start clearing and compacting the soil. First of all, we remove all construction debris in the room.

Then we begin to remove the top layer of soil.

The floor structure on the ground is a multilayer “pie”, about 30-35 cm thick. Therefore, we remove the soil layer until the total height from “zero” to the ground becomes equal to the thickness of the multilayer “pie” structure.

Then carefully tamp the surface. This can be done using a special vibrating plate. But if it is not there, then we take an ordinary log, nail handles to it from above, and a board from below and begin to compact the soil. The challenge is to get an even and sufficiently dense base on which you can walk and not leave indentations from your feet.

There may be a situation when the soil level is below the declared 35 cm. In this case, it is necessary to remove a small part of the fertile layer, compact it tightly, fill it with sand to the required mark and compact it.

Important! To increase the waterproofing of the concrete floor, a layer of clay and then sand can be laid on top of the native soil. Clay can be watered a little and compacted, it will prevent the penetration of groundwater.

Once the base layer is compacted, you can start backfilling the next one - it will be gravel. We fall asleep a layer of gravel with a thickness of 5-10 cm. We pour it with water and carefully tamp it down. To make it easier to control the thickness of the layer, we drive several rows of pegs of the desired height into the base soil and set them according to the level. After backfilling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.

We fill up the sand and ram

After gravel we fall asleep sand. We make the layer thickness about 10 cm and use the same pegs to simplify control. Sand is poured and compacted tightly. It should be noted that ravine sand with various impurities can be used for this layer.

On top of the sand we lay a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 40-50 mm. We carry out the compaction procedure. The resulting surface of crushed stone is sprinkled with a thin layer of sand, leveled and rammed. If crushed stone with sharp protruding edges is observed on the surface, then it should be removed or laid so that there are no sharp corners on the entire plane.

Important! The base base and all layers of the "pie" of the concrete floor must be aligned with the horizon. Therefore, at all stages of laying and compacting each layer, it is necessary to monitor the horizon with a level.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floor waterproofing can be done with polyethylene film

To create, you can use a 200 micron thick polyethylene film or a waterproofing membrane. We lay out the waterproofing layer over all areas of the room, draw the edges a couple of centimeters above “zero”, let the sheets themselves overlap and glue them with adhesive tape.

To improve the thermal insulation qualities of a concrete floor, various materials can be used, each of which is laid at a certain stage of work:

• expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• stone basalt wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• perlite;
• thick moisture resistant plywood;
• cork coating;
• roll isolon.

Floor reinforcement

You can reinforce the concrete floor with a frame of metal rods

To give the concrete floor additional strength, it must be reinforced. For this, a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcing bars or metal wire is used. The reinforcing frame must be laid on stands 2-3 cm high. So it will be inside the concrete floor and create a single whole with it.

Important! If we use a plastic mesh, then we stretch it over the pegs hammered into the base. A reinforcing frame made of reinforcement and metal wire can be welded independently, with certain skills.

Installation of guides and formwork

To facilitate the pouring of concrete and withstand the "zero" level, it is necessary to lay guides. We mark the room into equal segments up to two meters wide and divide them using guides. They are usually made from a board or a bar, the main thing is that the height of the guides be flush with the "zero" mark. We fix the guides themselves with a thick solution of cement, sand and clay.

We install the formwork for the concrete floor between the guides. It forms the so-called "maps", which are subsequently poured with concrete. This is done in order to simplify the filling process and maintain the "zero" level. For formwork we use moisture resistant plywood or boards.

Important! Guides and formwork must be brought to zero and leveled horizontally with a level in order to get a flat floor when pouring. We treat the formwork and guides with special oil to easily remove the boards from the concrete solution.

Pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor

The concrete floor is poured in one, maximum two passes. This is necessary to create a monolithic and durable structure. To do this, you can order concrete at the factory, and it will be brought in large volumes, but if this is not possible, you will have to do everything yourself. Then you will need a concrete mixer and a shovel, cement grade M400 or M500, river sand, crushed stone and a partner.

To prepare concrete, we take 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone and 0.5 parts of water. We mix in a concrete mixer and use the resulting mixture to fill the floor. We start pouring from the opposite corner from the door. It is necessary to pour several “cards” in one or two times, then smooth and stretch the mixture with a shovel. For dense shrinkage of concrete, we use a special vibrator, which helps to compact concrete and fill all voids with it.

Set the rule on the guides and pull towards you

After filling out several "cards" we start drafting. To do this, we set a rule with a length of more than 2 m on the guides and pull it towards us. With its help, we remove excess concrete that fills the still empty "cards". In those "maps" where alignment was carried out, we take out the formwork and guides and fill the voids with concrete. As soon as the entire floor area is filled with concrete and leveled, it is covered with a film and allowed to stand for 3-4 weeks to harden. During this time, the surface is constantly moistened with water.

Filling the floor with self-levelling compound

At the final stage, we perform a screed of the concrete floor with a self-leveling mixture. This will smooth out all the small flaws and create a perfectly flat surface. We start from the opposite corner from the door. We apply a solution from a self-leveling mixture to the surface and stretch it using the rule. The resulting surface must be cured for 3 days.

The crowning achievement in creating a concrete floor on the ground will be the laying of a floor covering that, thanks to a carefully prepared base, will be strong and durable. The design of a concrete floor on the ground, due to its simplicity and reliability, can last for decades, the main thing when creating it is to follow the technology of pouring concrete.

The floor on the ground on a strip foundation is significantly different in that various materials are used in its manufacture.

This floor has many layers. Layers go from the ground itself to the final coating.

Before starting the installation, consider all the features.

Features of different flooring layers

In order for people to be comfortable indoors, any building must have a multilayer base.

The house where people will subsequently have to live must be approached with special attention, since the standard of living of people will depend on this.

The structure of the floor on the ground

Sole

In order to make floors on the ground that will comply with SNiP, it is necessary to start work from a quality foundation.

To begin with, half a meter, it is necessary to remove a layer of black soil and replace it with sand with a large fraction. A layer of sand is raised above the ground level and compacted with a vibrating plate.

In the process of sand compaction, its surface is poured with water. This is necessary for better shrinkage. You can also use soil to which gravel has been added.

Litter layer

This layer serves to distribute pressure on the base. After all, if one corner of the house sags, then disastrous consequences cannot be avoided.

In order to make a bedding layer, concrete is poured five centimeters.

An innovation in the performance of this level is a profiled membrane, due to which the terms of work and the price are reduced.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary to protect against moisture, it is important to maintain the good condition of the flooring.

If you do not use waterproofing materials, fungi, mold, rot can form.

In the future, these adverse factors can destroy the foundation and disrupt the comfortable stay in the room.

Waterproofing materials

For waterproofing, the following materials are required:

• Bituminous mastic for the floor;
• fiberglass;
• Polyester;
• PVC membrane

The same alternative to the above materials is a polyethylene film three millimeters thick and double-folded.

thermal insulation

A large amount of heat escapes through the floor. To avoid heat loss, it is necessary to make a heat-insulating layer of special materials.

The following materials are used for thermal insulation:

• mineral wool;
• Expanded clay;
• Polyurethane;
• glass wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Styrofoam.

The choice of insulation depends on your desire and finances.

A good solution would be to install a floor heating system (water or electric). Such a solution, however, will cost you a pretty penny, but a warm floor on the ground will allow you to save on heating in the future.

carrier layer

This layer is considered the most important support of the building.

A reinforced concrete slab acts as such a layer and it consists of class B12 concrete; steel mesh; crushed stone, ranging in size from 5 to 20 mm.

Leveling screed

Before the final coating, the floor must be leveled.

It is leveled with a cement-sand mixture and poured using beacons.

Finishing layer

For finishing, you can choose any material you like. For example:

Vinyl, tiles, linoleum, 3D flooring, parquet.

To choose the material of your choice, you need to understand the technical purpose of each layer of the floor. Then you can independently calculate the floor on the ground.

Do-it-yourself floor installation on the ground

The floor on the ground made of wood is characterized by the presence of ventilation, this is achieved by raising the floor above the ground.

Installation instructions for wooden floor

Building a solid foundation

1. 5 cm of crushed stone are poured onto the ground and carefully tamped, then covered with bitumen.
2. They expose beacons, then make a floor screed on the ground.
3. Next, we will install brick bedside tables over the entire area, with a distance of about 80 cm. The height of the supports is made approximately in the range of 15-20 cm, because if there are posts, with a lower height, air circulation will be less. And with a higher height of the columns, heat losses will be increased.
4. From high humidity, the ends of the columns are covered with roofing felt and make a 4 cm overlap on the brick.
5. Logs are installed on the posts, the distance between them and the walls should be 2 cm. Plastic dowels and steel self-tapping screws are used as fasteners.
6. Wooden logs must be treated with antiseptic agents before use. Such measures will protect you from the invasion of pests.
7. Next, lay the boards and nail them. We check the slope of the boards with a level and, if there are any deviations, we remove them with an electric planer.
8. Nail heads must be masked with putty, then the boards are coated with a primer.

After all the procedures, the wooden floor is ready for the installation of the final layer, now it can be painted or varnished. And also, if desired, the floor is equipped with sound insulation and insulated.

Instructions for the installation work of the concrete floor

This method is called suspended, because the soil acts as a formwork for the reinforced concrete slab. This design is considered strong and durable.

Pour the floor on the ground in the following steps:

1. Set the upper border for the fill, as a guide, select the doorway.
2. We tamp a layer of gravel and then sand, due to this we get a filter pad.
3. We do insulation. As a material for vapor barrier we use a plastic film of 0.3 decimeters, it is laid in the base in two layers and overlapped on the walls.
4. We make a lattice of reinforcement to increase the strength of the screed.
5. Using dowels and screws, we install beacons.
6. Next, knead the solution, the ratio of ingredients should be 1:3.

Pour the finished mixture into strips, aligning with the beacons. After the concrete has hardened, the floor is insulated and the installation of the finishing layer begins.

In order to simplify the process of concreting, it is recommended to use a ready-made concrete-sand mixture.

Warming

Floor insulation is not an unimportant part of the floor construction on the ground. You can insulate the floor with different materials. You can choose the material that suits your budget.

The main qualities that an insulating material should have are:

1. Low thermal conductivity;
2. Increased strength to external pressure;
3. Waterproof.

These qualities are possessed by several types of materials:

Styrofoam.
Pretty cheap stuff. When exposed to bituminous mastics, the foam is subject to destruction. It is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap on both sides.

extruded polystyrene foam.
More expensive and better than foam. It has strength, holds heat, better resists moisture.

Mineral wool.
Durable and warm material, but the minus of the material is that it absorbs moisture. Therefore, when concreting, it is better to protect this material from contact with the solution.

Expanded clay.
This material can replace gravel, screed and insulation.

Underfloor heating system

Underfloor heating system is water and electric. Warm floors are considered very expensive, but at the same time an ideal option for insulation.

The choice will be yours, based on your capabilities.

As you understand, the floor on the ground has a layered structure, and each layer of the floor is important.

The modern building materials market is very diverse and therefore everyone can equip the floor in their own way.

We wish you good luck!

A concrete floor on the ground is a solution to significantly save the finances allocated for building a house. You can build a floor on the ground on almost any foundation, but columnar and pile types of foundations are not suitable. Consider the requirements for the soil, how to insulate, how the floor is poured on the ground.

Ground floor requirements

Before proceeding with the construction of a subfloor of this type, it is necessary to study all the requirements for their arrangement.

The requirements include:

1. It is undesirable to build a concrete floor on the ground in swampy soils. The location of the sea, lake or river near the building is not the best option, since the base will absorb moisture.
2. It is impossible to make a foundation of this type in houses that are not intended for year-round use. Groundwater should not be frozen.
3. The draft base cannot be poured simultaneously with the foundation. The latter must be filled earlier and must be settled.
4. Concreting the floor using the rule does not give the desired effect of a flat floor. After pouring the floor on the ground, you need to make the final alignment.

Fulfillment of all requirements guarantees a high-quality base for a fine floor covering.

How to make concrete floors on the ground, watch the video.

Mounting options

You can make a concrete floor on the ground in two ways:

1. Installation directly on the ground of monolithic floors. The method is used in dry areas, as well as on rocky ground.
2. The second option involves the use of beams, due to their use, the floor rises above the ground. Filling the floor on the ground can be carried out in marshy places, but the process must be carried out using beams, due to which the floor rises above the ground.

The first installation option is used if the arrangement of the lower floor or basement is not required.

If a subfloor is planned, then a beam system will have to be used. Working with such a system is much more complicated than a monolithic version; it must be done by a master with some experience.

Of course, you can do a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands without experience, but then it is better to use the first option.

Floor materials

Filling the floor on the ground requires compliance with the technology, which must be performed strictly and consistently. Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare all the components of the floor.

All elements must be prepared and their suitability for pouring a monolithic floor must be observed:

• Sand for floors should be used river, fine fraction.
• Crushed stone, it can be spilled with concrete or bitumen. The crushed stone spilled with bitumen acquires good moisture-resistant qualities, and the crushed stone poured with concrete plays the role of additional support for the monolithic base.
• Gravel.
• Cement for flooring work.
• Reinforcing wire.
• waterproofing materials.

All materials must be of appropriate quality, so you can get a quality foundation.

Installation of the floor on the ground

In order for the concrete floor on the ground to be of high quality, the floor installation work must be carried out in strict sequence. Each stage comes with some nuances that it is desirable to know.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Soil marking

Filling the floor on the ground should begin with markings. On the foundation, they look for the lower points of the future doorway. With the help of these points, the laser level finds points in the corners of the foundation. For better visualization, the corners are screwed in with screws and threads are pulled. And this mark is measured down to a distance of 1 m. This distance will be the zero level.

All construction debris is removed, and the site is cleaned to compact the soil and materials. The soil must be compacted, since a loose, soft surface will not withstand a significant load from a concrete slab.

Compaction is carried out using a vibrating plate or manually. In manual work, a log is taken and with its help the soil is rolled. At the end of the work, a flat surface should be obtained. Under load on this surface, there should be no sinking or crushing of the earth.

Creation of dead ends

Installation of dead ends is necessary if a house with an underground floor is to be installed. The height of the subfloor is regulated by dead ends. They are built of bricks with the help of brickwork directly on the ground. The location of dead ends must necessarily fall on the corners of the building and at the intersection points of the walls. These points are determined by the design of the structure.

Use of building materials

The prepared soil is prepared for compacting river sand. Preparation consists in driving in special pegs, which will be a kind of beacons. The height of the river stove should be 5 cm. The sand poured onto the ground is well leveled and lightly accepted.

On top of the sand, gravel or crushed stone will be backfilled. The height of the layer should be 10 cm. The layer of stones should be spilled with water. This step will allow you to slightly align the location of the stones and tamp them a little.

By pouring water, some smoothing of the sharp and rough parts of crushed stone or gravel is achieved. For good waterproofing, stones are shed not with water, but with bitumen. If the future structure is supposed to be made massive and very impressive in size, then crushed stone or gravel can be spilled with cement mortar. Prepare this solution without the use of stones.

The evenness of the base and some possibility of groundwater entering the thermal insulation depend on the qualitative creation of these layers. If water gets into the insulation, then a significant deterioration in thermal insulation properties can occur.

Additional insulation

In order for the concrete floor on the ground to be as warm as possible, from which cold will not go into future rooms, insulation is used. This layer must be made of heat insulators.

Plate products are used as materials, they have a higher compressive strength:

• Mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Perlite.
• Waterproof plywood.
• Cork.

All materials well protect the conduction of excessive cold. When using, it is necessary to observe the correct laying.

The material must be laid in 2 layers, and the joints of the plates of the first and second layers should not coincide. If this requirement is not observed, a cold bridge is formed, as a result of which the insulation in this place will not fulfill its functions. It is desirable to glue the joints of the second layer with construction tape.

Laying the material must be carried out on roofing material or film, which will protect the insulation from moisture absorption. The surface of the laid insulation must also be protected with a film.

This work is necessary to improve the quality of adhesion. Reinforcement is carried out with iron wire, mesh for screed. A substitute can be used - fiberglass wire. Reinforcement is laid in a checkerboard pattern, welding the joints. At the corners, it is desirable to carry out the laying in such a way that the joints do not fall there.

The thickness of the wire is also important. The minimum value is 3 mm. used for small buildings. If the structure is much larger, then the thickness of the wire must be increased. If floors are made with underground space, then reinforcement is carried out later.

formwork

The final stage of work, before the floor is poured on the ground, is the installation of the formwork.

It is important to consider which concrete floors are installed on the ground in a private house. Given the type of floors, formwork is installed.

Concrete floors without creating a floor begin to be done by setting up guides. They are fixed to concrete and treated with concrete mortar. The upper level of the guides should reach the bottom of the doorway. Boards or plywood are fixed to the guides, which will be the formwork. The boards must be treated with machine oil, so that after the mortar hardens, the formwork can be easily removed.

Concrete floors with an underground are mounted in almost the same way, but after the installation of the side boards, the boards are mounted from below, which will be the basis for the reinforcement and concrete mortar. In this formwork, reinforcement is installed.

Pouring solution

Pour the concrete floor over the ground as quickly as possible. Filling the floor on the ground occurs in several places at the same time, leveling the solution for a more even distribution. The poured solution must be leveled; a vibrating plate is used for dense tamping. The base is left for several days, so that the solution sets well.

The hardened platform is freed from the formwork and guides. In floors with a basement, even before pouring, it is necessary to provide for a descent.

Floors without a basement must be poured again so that the distance between the slab and the foundation is filled with mortar until the floors of the desired height are formed. The newly poured solution is leveled by the rule. Drying of the new layer is carried out under the film for 3-4 weeks. Approximately once a day, the surface must be moistened with water, this action prevents the appearance of cracks.

Concreting the floor gives a certain evenness, but good evenness can be achieved by applying, poured after the concrete floor has completely dried.

Solution preparation

For pouring floors, a cement mortar of grade M400 not lower is used. This brand of cement is frost-resistant. In regions with severe frosts, cement of a larger brand can be used. When installing floors in swampy and watery places, you need to use cement of a higher grade, since it has water-repellent properties.

The preparation of a solution for pouring the floor on the ground is carried out by weighing the parts of the necessary components:

1. Cement - 1 part.
2. Sand - 2 parts. The sand must be sieved, this operation removes unnecessary impurities that adversely affect the quality of the finished solution.
3. Crushed stone - 4 parts. For the solution, crushed stone of a measured fraction is used.
4. Water - half. Use clean, cool water.

The preparation of the solution must be carried out in a concrete mixer.

The sequence of work on the preparation of the solution is carried out by mixing sand with water, then cement is added. Cement must be well stirred and crushed stone added. Fine-grained gravel is added last.

The solution must be poured without long breaks in time. If there are breaks, then you will not have to rely on the quality of the foundation.

Before making a concrete floor on the ground, it is important to understand whether the master can independently carry out this work. Work related to the preparation for pouring, you can do it yourself. At the stage of preparing and pouring the solution, it is better to use additional help. The use of self-leveling compounds to prepare the base for laying the final coating.

A concrete floor on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal way of arranging a reliable and warm foundation. Through the use of new types of insulation, we get good thermal insulation of the entire floor, which leads to a reduction in utility costs. And also the insulation is an obstacle to the penetration of moisture and the appearance of fungus and mold.

And the most important thing is that you can build this type of floor with your own hands. In this article we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.

Floor on the ground: the pros and cons

Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is a "layer cake". And each layer has its own functions and purpose, thanks to such a device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:

There are not many disadvantages, but they are all there:

Cannot be used on loose ground.

How to make the right floor construction on the ground

We will consider the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. We will analyze each layer separately.

It’s worth saying right away that for each master and specialist, the number of layers can change, and the materials can also differ.

This type of floor is ideal for a strip foundation. The average thickness of the “floor pie” is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when building the foundation.

If you do not have enough foundation height, then select the soil, to a given depth. Level the surface and tamp. For convenience, in the corners around the entire perimeter, a scale should be applied in increments of 5 cm, so it will be more convenient to navigate in layers and levels.

Importantly, it is best to rent a vibrating plate for compacting the soil, since the manual method will take a lot of time and will not give such results as a special device.

Clay. If during the sampling of the earth you have reached a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.

Clay is sold in bags, we pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of liquid glass), and we carry out ramming using a vibrating plate. After tamping, we spill a layer of clay with cement milk (10 liters of water + 2 kg of cement).

We make sure that there are no puddles. As soon as you spill clay with this composition, the process of glass crystallization begins.

You should not do anything for a day, it is worth waiting for the crystallization process to seize, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from the ground.

Layer of waterproofing material. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing material, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.

In the case of using roofing material, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay waterproofing overlap with each other and on the walls.

Between themselves 10-15 cm, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. The seams must be glued with construction tape. Walking on waterproofing material should be in soft shoes.

insulation+ layer of vapor barrier. The best material for insulation is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, EPPS 5 cm thick can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.

But so, you can use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. Insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.

The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with offset seams, and glue the upper seams with special adhesive tape.

In order to remove cold bridges from the foundation or plinth, the insulation is laid vertically and fastened with dowels from the inside. Experts recommend insulating the basement from the outside, with one sheet of insulation and also fixing it with dowels.

On top of the insulation should be laid a layer of vapor barrier. As a vapor barrier material, it is best to use PVC membranes, they do not rot and have a long service life. The disadvantage of this material is the high cost.

The main task of the vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of the concrete solution. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.

We make smoothing with the help of a rule or a vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed, and the cavities filled with a solution.

The entire concrete floor should be covered with a film and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands, I make a solution of the following composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

In the case of using underfloor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to mount the rough floor screed on the ground.

After laying the insulation, pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to a predetermined level.

The ground floor technology can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach and correct calculations, the layers do not harm the wooden elements.

Finish flooring. The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any type of fine flooring. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

As mentioned above, the combination of components, and the number of layers may be different. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.

Conclusion

As we all know, from 20 to 30% of heat can go through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be as thermally insulated as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the entire house.

The owner of a private house receives comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Floors on the ground with insulation are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.

Strip foundation, lack of a basement, low groundwater level - these conditions are enough to choose ground concrete floors in a private house.

To call such a solution simple and easy it is forbidden, but it allows you to save money due to the absence of floor slabs and reduce the load on the basement unit (therefore, the foundation can be made “lighter”).

Floors on the ground - we start with the protection of the foundation

Most sources cite as a mandatory requirement the occurrence of groundwater no higher than 4-5 meters(sometimes even two). And this is the level of occurrence top water, which is seasonal and located above water-resistant layers. That is, these are ordinary sedimentary waters that did not have time to seep into lower and permanent aquifers (“on sand” and “on lime”).

Summer and winter perch disappears and reappears in spring and autumn. Even if the site is located in the “critical” zone, then it can be effectively dealt with (if it is not infiltration water seeping through the ground from a nearby reservoir).

The first condition for preventing flooding with perch water is drainage.

It is necessary to "help" the sedimentary water to penetrate through the layers of soil that have water-resistant properties (loam). These measures are fundamental for such areas, even from the point of view of protecting the foundation during the rainy season and snowmelt. It is not difficult to do this - several wells are drilled along the perimeter of the house with a diameter of up to 15 cm and a depth below the heel of the foundation.

Then a drainage pipe is inserted just below the ground level (it is better to wrap it with a filter cloth - this will prevent it from silting) and crushed stone of a fine fraction is poured inside. The hole is covered with waterproof materials, covered with earth from above or covered with a piece of turf.

There is a more complex option with the arrangement of trenches, in which the same pipes are laid on a pillow of sand and gravel and brought down to a drainage well.

The second condition is foundation waterproofing.

In conditions of pressure exposure to water, the most effective will be a combination of several methods.

First, the outer walls of the base are treated with a bituminous primer, and rolled materials are glued onto it. The correct technique is a horizontal arrangement from the bottom up, overlapping, but a simpler one is vertical.

Bonding occurs due to heating the inside of the sheet with a blowtorch. They protect the waterproofing with a clay castle, which itself serves as a barrier to water. If the impact of perched water is short-lived, and the precipitation in the region is not abundant, then you can limit yourself to coating waterproofing.

And of course, to the mandatory measures to protect against water, it is necessary to add a blind area (20 cm wider than the projection of the edge of the roof) and a drainage system.

Foundation device for concrete floor on the ground

In principle, flooring on the ground is a common technology for basements, basements, outbuildings (sheds, garages). A significant difference can only be the device of a “warm” floor in a screed, and the arrangement of a reliable foundation, waterproofing and passive insulation is carried out in any case.

No matter how reliable the waterproofing of the foundation and drainage measures are, the soil has its own moisture, and water can rise up through natural capillaries. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor from these factors as well.

In the context of the floor device on the ground is a multilayer cake.

When erecting floors on the ground and the basis for the entire structure, there should be a flat and dense area without vegetation residues, root system and construction debris. The “reference point” for determining the volume of earthworks is taken at the threshold level.

The thickness of the finishing coating and the thickness of all layers of the concrete floor on the ground are subtracted from it (it is only the base for residential premises).

After the site is cleared and leveled, its base must be compacted. The simplest "rammer" is a log cutter with a transverse handle, a more modern way is a vibration machine.

To improve the insulating properties

the next layer can be done from clay. For wells, a clay castle thickness of at least 20 cm is recommended, for artificial reservoirs 8-12 cm, the same parameters are chosen for adobe floors, but here you can limit yourself to a more modest value of 5-6 cm.

The next layer is sand. Many, by inertia, advise choosing river or washed seeded sand, but this is redundant - ordinary quarry sand is suitable for a pillow (this is not the manufacture of concrete and clay impurities do not affect strength characteristics). This layer is watered and compacted.

Then a layer of crushed stone of medium or fine fraction is poured. It interrupts the capillary rise of water from the ground. He is also rammed.

The thickness of each layer is usually chosen from 5 to 10 cm, with a total size of up to 20 cm.

It is possible to use expanded clay (it is a good bulk heat-insulating material), but this is only if the possibility of water ingress is excluded - it swells under its influence. For dry soils, you can limit yourself to only a pillow of sand, but for the floor in the basement, it is permissible to use a pillow of two layers of crushed stone - first a large fraction, and then a fine one.

A dense plastic film is laid on top of the rubble with a stop on the walls.

It serves not for waterproofing, but as a necessary condition for the correct hydration of the first layer of concrete.

First pour lean concrete, which does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves as the basis for waterproofing and laying thermal insulation materials. Builders call it "concrete" or "rolled" (it fits easily). The percentage of cement in it is usually less than 2 times due to increasing the proportion of filler- for example, instead of the ratio 1:3:3 (cement, sand, crushed stone), the proportions 1:3:6 are used.

Since this layer is not taken into account when ensuring the overall strength of the concrete floor for a private house, its reinforcement is not necessary.

A layer of 6-8 cm is enough.

Important! In the manufacture of concrete, river or washed sand should be used.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Jewelry accuracy, as for a screed, is not necessary, but alignment with beacons is necessary for high-quality laying of slab insulation.

Then a break is needed for the concrete to gain strength. The first week is very important - for hardening (hydration) of the solution, it is necessary to create a high level of humidity. That is why a film is needed at the base - so that water does not go into the sand and gravel, does not soak into the walls. Periodically, the surface is moistened with water. Better yet, cover with wet burlap. Ideally (at a temperature of 20°C and normal humidity), concrete gains 70% of its design strength in the first 7 days, and 100% in four weeks.

To continue the work, it is enough to withstand a week.

When using hardening accelerator modifiers, 3 days are enough (sometimes even one day, but such additives ultimately significantly affect the quality of the concrete stone).

Waterproofing

It is obligatory for the first floors, especially in conditions when we build floors on the ground. The use of polyethylene (of any density) is best left for the floors of city apartments (and even then not in the bathroom or in the kitchen). The right choice is rolled insulation with bituminous impregnation.

The surface cleaned of dust is treated with a bituminous primer (primer), and roofing material (or one of its analogues) is laid on top. They do this in two layers, with the seams offset (filling them with bitumen) and reaching the walls above the floor level.

At this stage, the preparation of the base for insulation and pouring the screed ends.

Concrete floor on the ground: floor insulation

To insulate a concrete floor, three options are most often used - expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam.

As already noted, only with reliable waterproofing is it possible to use expanded clay - when moisture gets in, it swells. The thickness of the layer can vary between 10-20 cm.

We insulate the floors on the ground with foam plastic in two layers, each of which should be displaced in relation to each other. It is desirable to offset the seams between the rows. This will increase the strength of the insulation layer itself, and, as a result, the screed - if the seams coincide, the risk of cracks in this place increases. Styrofoam sheets should be fitted as closely as possible to each other, and it is best to use foam with ends that have a tongue-and-groove profile.

Treat joints with adhesive.

The EPPS insulation technology is the same as for polystyrene foam. The material differs in its high compressive strength and the almost complete absence of water absorption (it itself is a good waterproofing material).

Important! Floor insulation is effective if the basement is insulated.

Screed

Filling the floor on the ground ends with a screed. Then it remains to lay the finishing layer: wooden floors, laminate, linoleum, etc.

Although for service premises (garage, basement, pantry) it is possible to make topping of the concrete surface at the pouring stage (this significantly increases strength and prevents dusting).

The screed over the insulation must necessarily have reinforcement.

For residential premises with light surface loads, it is sufficient to install a road mesh with a link size of 10 × 10 cm and a wire thickness of 3-4 mm.

You can use galvanized steel mesh, but polymer

or composite

behaves better in the alkaline environment of concrete, as well as .

The mesh is not fastened to the walls, but a compensation gap of at least 20 mm is left. You can use a block of wood or scraps of foam, which are then removed, and the gap is filled with an elastic sealant.

The laying of the mesh overlaps in two cells, the fastening between the sheets is made with wire.

Reinforcement

runs at some distance from the floor surface (approximately 1/3-1/2 layers of screed). To do this, you can use pieces of brick or rubble, plastic bottle caps or special coasters.

The thickness of the screed for residential premises must be at least 50 mm.

Both types of concrete (cement-sand) screed can be used - classic or semi-dry.

If leveling of the surface with self-leveling floors is not provided, and the screed will be the base of the finish coating, then the level must be observed as accurately as possible.

Note information : , .