To fertilize and treat tomatoes, gardeners most often use traditional fertilizers and preparations, but some vegetable growers also use unusual methods, for example, feeding and fertilizing tomatoes with iodine. Tomatoes have little need for this element, but, nevertheless, they always react positively to it. Find out how to properly feed tomatoes with iodine and what effect you can get from it.

Iodine for tomatoes growing in home beds is used in 2 ways: as a fertilizer from which plants can obtain this element and as a simple and affordable preventive and therapeutic agent used to prevent or combat fungal diseases. In the first case, an iodine solution is also used to improve nitrogen metabolism in the soil, thus providing some replacement for traditionally used nitrogen fertilizers such as nitrate.

The use of iodine as a fertilizer for tomatoes stimulates a faster onset of fruiting. Such fertilizing becomes especially effective in cases where it is necessary to induce the onset of fruiting in plants that should already bear fruit, but due to iodine deficiency in the soil this does not happen.

A lack of this element in the soil can also lead to a decrease in the overall yield of plants, or to the formation of small quantities of fruits on tomatoes, as well as to their late ripening. It has also been established that this element helps tomato fruits quickly acquire a bright red color, that is, it makes them more attractive and tastier, and also enhances their ability to withstand subsequent storage.

The benefit of iodine for tomato seedlings is that it helps them to take root after transplantation and takes part in many processes occurring in tomato plants, which means it will be very useful for the growth and proper development of young plants, just like adult tomatoes.

Signs of iodine deficiency

Its deficiency in the tissues of tomato plants manifests itself in various ways, for example, in decreased immunity and their resistance to bad weather, various diseases and pest attacks. This is especially felt by plants that begin to suffer from fungal diseases such as brown spot, mosaic, root rot, and late blight.

Even if plants do not get sick due to a lack of a microelement, iodine is still important for tomato seedlings; if it is deficient in the soil, it can grow pale, thin and lethargic. In many cases, severe iodine deficiency can even lead to the death of plants, especially in extreme heat and drought, if they are not provided with timely feeding with this element.

Recipes for feeding tomatoes with iodine

There are fertilizers that contain iodine, but in the household you can also use a regular pharmacy solution; it can be bought at any pharmacy and at any convenient time. It can be used for any type of iodine feeding of tomatoes: root and foliar. Both of them are equally effective, so many experienced vegetable growers advise not to choose one of them, but to alternate them to get the maximum effect.

Root

The first feeding of tomatoes with iodine in a greenhouse and in open ground beds is carried out when the young seedlings have 2 pairs of true leaves. The working solution is made from 3 liters of warm water and only 1 drop of iodine. This liquid is watered at the roots of tomatoes, spending no more than 0.5 liters per bush. Many vegetable growers have noticed that even after one such fertilizing, the tomatoes in the beds become stronger and healthier, and better resist various diseases (fungal and even viral). The same solution can be used to feed tomato seedlings after picking.

The second feeding of tomatoes with iodine solution can be carried out when they begin to bloom and set fruit. In this case, a composition slightly different from the first is used. It is prepared in the following proportion: 3 drops of pharmaceutical tincture are diluted in 10 liters of water. The fertilizer consumption rate is 1 liter for each tomato bush.

To water tomatoes with iodine for the third time (in the fruiting phase), a more complex composition is used. This time, in addition to iodine, the fertilizing solution also contains ash and boric acid. The sequence for preparing this fertilizing solution is as follows: dissolve 3 liters of ash in 5 liters of heated water and leave the liquid to infuse for about 1 hour. After this, you need to add warm water and increase the volume of the finished solution to 10 liters. Add a bottle of iodine solution and 10 g of boric acid to the bucket, mix everything well until all ingredients are completely dissolved. Let the liquid infuse for 1 day, and then dilute 1 liter of this infusion in a bucket of warm water. The consumption rate of fertilizing solution is 1 liter for each tomato bush.

Foliar

In addition to root fertilizing, foliar fertilizing is also carried out, that is, spraying tomatoes with iodine on the leaf. To prepare a simple feeding solution, take 1 liter of warm water and drop 5 drops of iodine solution and 1 glass of low-fat milk into it. Spraying is carried out only in the early morning or late evening, treating the plants with a spray bottle (wet the leaves on both sides).

It is impossible to increase the concentration of iodine when preparing the solution, as this can lead to burns to the plants. After spraying tomatoes with milk and iodine, they begin to grow better, bloom and set fruit.

Recipes for protection against diseases

You can start treating tomatoes that need to be planted on the site with iodine already at the seed stage. Soaking seed material in an iodine solution is carried out in order to disinfect it from various infections, as well as improve germination and growth of seedlings. A solution of weak concentration (0.1%) is prepared for soaking, that is, 1 drop of iodine is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Tomato seeds are dipped into this liquid for at least 6 hours.

Spraying seedlings with iodine solution helps protect them from such a serious disease as late blight. For this purpose prepare:

• an aqueous solution of iodine (1-2 drops per 1 liter of water) and 1 liter of whey;
• a solution of milk and iodine (for 10 liters of warm water you need to take 1 liter of milk and 15 drops of iodine);
• a solution of sour milk and iodine (0.5 l and 10 drops, respectively, per 10 l of water).

Spraying iodine against late blight on tomatoes is carried out several times in order to obtain the desired effect. Many vegetable growers recommend combining the processing of tomatoes with other methods of eliminating this fungal disease, for example, garlic infusion with potassium permanganate or saline solution.

A very simple way to protect tomatoes from late blight without treatments or spraying is to hang iodine in the greenhouse. To do this, hang 1 bottle with the lid open in its corners. The tincture slowly evaporates, saturates the air with the microelement and thus protects the tomatoes from infections.

This simple and inexpensive feeding of tomatoes increases the number of ovaries significantly. It will also protect plants from diseases and accelerate the ripening of fruits. The tomatoes will become more sugary and larger.

It is especially effective to grow tomatoes using this system under unfavorable conditions, when the bushes bloom, but there is practically no ovary.

Foliar feeding (spraying) in tandem with proper watering is better absorbed by plants, and also facilitates care and reduces the consumption of preparations.

Composition of foliar feeding of tomatoes

• 9 liters of water
• 1 liter of milk of any fat content
• 0.5 teaspoon boric acid
• 10 drops of iodine

Boric acid is dissolved separately in a glass of warm water, and then added to the sprayer with the rest of the ingredients. It is very effective in fight against late blight, promotes the formation of a large number of ovaries. Also, boric acid prevents the shedding of flowers and fruits, protects them from rotting when there is excess moisture.

It is especially important to spray tomatoes with this composition when grown in open ground and during rainy summers with unstable weather and sudden temperature changes. Treatment with boric acid with milk and iodine improves the taste of the fruit and makes it sweeter. And the tomatoes will start growing faster.

Signs of boron deficiency in tomatoes

• The upper leaves turn yellow and curl.
• The leaves become small and deformed.
• The tops gradually wither and die.
• Few flowers and ovaries.
• A large number of barren flowers.

Iodine is also very important trace element for tomatoes. After applying iodine, tomatoes ripen much earlier, reducing the likelihood of infection with late blight and root rot.

Spraying frequency

• The first is during the formation of buds.
• 2 fertilizing is carried out during the period of mass flowering.
• Spray 3 times as soon as fruit begins to set.

It is better to process tomatoes in the morning or evening, or in cloudy weather. Under no circumstances in sunny weather, as the plants will receive severe burns.

When spraying again, distribute solution on the upper leaves and buds, the lower part You don't have to touch the plants. Boron tends to accumulate in shoots, so we spray only new leaves and buds.

The yield of tomatoes also depends on how well the watering is organized. Tomatoes don't like excess moisture in the soil and in the air, so you don’t need to water often or much.

Potassium fertilizer for tomatoes

During the period of active fruit growth and ripening, add 2 tablespoons under the tomatoes every 2 weeks. dry ash.

After this, water it generously with warm water and feed it with a solution of vermicompost: 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water.

Ash and vermicompost provide plants with the necessary nutrition and also accelerate the ripening of fruits and improve their taste. This is an environmentally friendly fertilizer with a large amount of macro- and micronutrients in a bioavailable form.

It is best to make a small depression between the bushes and carefully pour water into it so that moisture does not get on the leaves and cause the appearance of.

Watering tomatoes only warm water, heated in the sun. Ice water from a well or well is a real stress for plants.

The benefits of mulch

An excellent result is obtained by mulching the soil around tomato bushes with a thick layer of straw or dry grass. They can be replaced with black agrofibre. Mulch retains moisture, prevents weeds from growing, and earthworms actively reproduce under it. And they, in turn, enrich the soil with oxygen.

What not to do

Under no circumstances should tomatoes be fed with nitrogen during flowering and fruit set. After watering or spraying with nitrogen fertilizers, the plants will become fattened, grow only green mass, and will stand with fat trunks and huge leaves. But the cat cried about the fruit.

Therefore, during this period, feed tomatoes only with vermicompost with ash and spray per sheet with boric acid with iodine and milk. An alternative to vermicompost.

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Milk is useful not only for people; the beneficial substances it contains have a beneficial effect on the plant. Feeding tomatoes with milk has become a lifesaver for summer residents. What pleases me most about this folk method is its safety. You can safely harvest after using milk or whey to feed tomatoes during their fruiting period.

Healthy dairy supplements

• drooping leaves;
• darker color;
• the appearance of a bluish tint in the color of the leaf plate;
• drying edges of leaves.

The lack of phosphorus is especially noticeable during the active flowering of tomato bushes and during the formation of ovaries. Lactose, which is part of milk, repels pests. And the purpose of amino acids is to activate the growth of tomatoes.

The benefits of feeding tomatoes with milk are beyond doubt. Let's consider situations when fertilizing is especially necessary.

For home seedlings

Feeding tomato seedlings with milk is carried out both when dangerous symptoms appear (twisted leaves) and to prevent fungal diseases. Seedlings are watered with water with milk and iodine. The concentration of milk in 10 liters of water is 1 liter. It is recommended to take a low-fat product. Iodine drip no more than 15 drops.

Comment! Raw cow's milk contains more nutrients, but store-bought milk also gives good results.

They begin feeding tomato seedlings with milk after the first 2 true leaves appear on the seedlings. Regular watering gives good results. When using high-quality soil, there is no need to use mineral fertilizers when growing seedlings. This naturally increases the environmental friendliness of the future tomato harvest.

For seedlings in the ground

Seedlings transplanted into the ground experience stress from changes in temperature and soil. Feeding tomatoes with milk helps facilitate the adaptation of seedlings to a new location. Treatments can be carried out both in greenhouses and greenhouses, and in open ground.

Seedlings are planted in the ground at the age of 50-60 days, so the concentration of milk in the solution should be higher than for indoor tomato seedlings. A liter of milk is diluted with 4 liters of water, the concentration of iodine in a solution of this volume is 5-10 drops. Pour no more than 0.5 liters of milk fertilizer into one hole. Feeding tomatoes with milk can be done no more than once every 3 days.

For adult bushes

When the fruiting period begins (each variety of tomato has its own), feeding the tomatoes with milk alternates with applying mineral fertilizers at the root. During this period, milk cannot replenish the entire set of microelements necessary for plants.

In addition to milk, summer residents use kefir, yogurt or whey. Many believe that whey for feeding tomatoes is more useful, since the concentration of beneficial microelements in it is higher. Adult plants are watered with milk solution no more than 2 times a week. Prepare water for irrigation in the manner described above.

Relieving stress from improper watering

You can tell that a tomato plant is under stress by its appearance. For summer residents who rarely visit their dacha, tomatoes often experience stress. Mainly due to poorly organized watering. Tomatoes can be in a depressed state when they are kept on dry rations for a long time, and then flooded without any measure.

Important! Surface watering is unacceptable for tomato bushes. Roots can fully extract moisture only from deeper layers of soil.

An external sign of stress caused by improper watering is curled leaves on tomatoes.

Summer residents may see curled leaves after abundant watering of their tomatoes if the soil in the garden (in the greenhouse) is heavy and clayey. In this case, water may stagnate in the lower and middle sections of the tomato root, and malnutrition leads to curling of the leaves.

It is this situation that often leads to the death of plants. Stagnation of water provokes the appearance of root rot in tomatoes. What do we need to relieve stress in tomatoes by feeding with milk? Everything you need for this is in every home:

• a liter bottle of store-bought milk of any fat content;
• a bag of boric acid;
• a bottle of iodine;
• plastic bucket with a volume of 10 l;
• some warm water to dilute boric acid crystals and 9 liters of water at room temperature.

Pour the milk into a bucket and add water to the top. Pour 5 g of boric acid crystals into a separate bowl and dilute them until completely dissolved with lukewarm water. Pour a completely transparent solution of boric acid into a bucket, stir and drip in iodine. This recipe requires 20 drops. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed again and the sprayer filled with it.

In the morning or evening, walk through the tomato plantings growing in a greenhouse or in open ground and feed the tomato with milk, spraying each leaf and stem. Feeding results:

• leaf plates rejuvenate in a short time;
• the velvety quality of the leaves is restored;
• New fibers appear on the trunks, due to which additional nutrition of the tomato bush occurs.

Restoring the correct watering regime and feeding tomatoes with milk with the addition of iodine and boric acid restores health to tomato bushes.

Hot in the greenhouse

In summer, the air in a polycarbonate greenhouse can heat up to 30°C or higher. This heat not only has a detrimental effect on the quality of pollen, it negatively affects the tomatoes. Bushes weakened by heat are more susceptible to infection.

In hot weather, you can notice signs of brown spotting on tomato bushes:

• whitish spots on the outer part of the leaf;
• brown or gray coating on the back of the leaf;
• dry leaves.

The disease weakens the plant, reduces yield, and deteriorates its quality. It is easier to get rid of the disease if it is detected in time. You can restore the health of tomato bushes by feeding the tomatoes with milk. For processing, take 0.5 liters of skim milk, add 10 drops of iodine into it. After a few days, repeat the treatment until the symptoms are completely eliminated.

Milk from gray rot

Poor immunity in a tomato is indicated by signs of gray rot, which appear first on the leaves and stems, and then on the fruits. Infection begins from the bottom of the bushes. You can notice a fluffy gray coating on the leaves.

You can slow down the spread of the disease and completely stop it by feeding tomatoes with milk. The recipe described earlier with undiluted milk is suitable, as well as the option when 1 liter of milk or whey is diluted with 5 liters of water. Iodine is needed in both cases; 10 drops are needed.

August – fight against late blight

Late blight is the scourge of vegetable gardens and greenhouses. Tomatoes especially suffer from it in August, when the difference between day and night temperatures becomes noticeable. Temperature fluctuations weaken plant immunity and a pathogenic fungus that lives in the soil affects tomato bushes.

Not only leaves and stems suffer from late blight; the main damage occurs to the fruits. It would seem that tomatoes that were healthy at the time of harvest become covered with brown spots during storage. They are no longer suitable for use. In July, outbreaks of late blight are also not uncommon, especially during periods of prolonged rain. Most gardeners prefer to restore the immunity of fruit-bearing plants using folk methods. Milk is included in some of them.

The use of whey for feeding tomatoes in the period from July to August is of great benefit in the fight against late blight.

Recipe with whey

The whey is sold in liter bags in supermarkets. Already in July, in order to prevent late blight, you can spray tomato bushes daily with serum diluted 50 to 50 with water.

Important! Apply daily treatment of tomatoes with serum in the morning or evening before sunset.

For tomatoes, fertilizing with whey serves as protection against harmful fungi and kills its beneficial lactic bacteria. The bushes are protected by a film that forms when the leaves are sprayed with a solution.

Iodine plus milk

During an outbreak, experienced gardeners treat the bushes with a solution of water, milk and iodine. For 1 liter of water you need ½ glass of milk and 2-3 drops of iodine. You should not increase the dose of iodine, as you can burn the leaves. During an outbreak of late blight on tomatoes, the picked fruits are disinfected by placing them for 30 minutes in warm 35°C water with manganese diluted in it.

Feeding tomatoes with milk against late blight is alternated with treatments with garlic infusion. The recipe is simple:

1. Take 100 g of peeled garlic cloves and stems.
2. Pour the resulting thick mixture with water (1 cup).
3. Leave for at least 24 hours.
4. Dilute the resulting concentrate with 10 liters of water immediately before use.

Prepare an infusion according to this recipe once every 2 weeks. Bushes are treated when the street is dry and there is no wind.

Kefir against late blight

There may be no milk or whey in the refrigerator. If there is kefir there, then it is very good. Pathogenic fungi can also be fought with lactic acid products diluted with water. One liter bottle needs to be diluted in 5 liters of settled tap water. The seedlings transplanted into the ground are treated for the first time.

10 days should pass from the moment of planting. All subsequent treatments are carried out at weekly intervals. The solution can be prepared directly in the sprayer by first pouring kefir into it and then water. For these purposes, it is a good idea to purchase a backpack-type sprayer; it is easier for them to process a large number of tomato bushes.

Conclusion

Simple recipes for feeding tomatoes with milk, whey and other fermented milk products have been used by summer residents in practice for many years. There will always be skeptics who will claim that all this is nonsense.

In fact, the use of dairy supplements is very effective. Most summer residents choose folk recipes containing milk in order to obtain a harvest of healthy vegetables without the use of chemicals.

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For all gardeners and gardeners, it is important to obtain a large and high-quality harvest, without the use of chemical fertilizers and stimulants. In the case of growing tomatoes, spraying tomatoes with iodine with milk is becoming increasingly popular. Of particular importance is the fact that this method in small dosages is harmless to both plants and humans.

By itself, an element such as iodine for tomato seedlings does not play any role for growth and development. If it is missing or not there at all, the plant will not notice it. So why is it necessary? The element has a stimulating effect because it improves the absorption and assimilation of nutrients and helps to activate the plant’s defenses in the fight against diseases.

There are several ways to supply iodine to vegetable crops. Plants receive it from the ground or with applied fertilizers - root or foliar treatments. It should be borne in mind that most often the presence or absence of this element is unknown, since it is not specifically added.

If we consider soils depending on the level of saturation with this element, we can distinguish between rich and poor soils. The rich include:

• peat tundra;
• red soils and black soils;
• chestnut soils.

The poor are as follows:

• gray soils and forest soils;
• podzolic;
• salt licks;
• brown soils.

Before artificially saturating plants with fertilizer, you should take into account the soil in which they grow and the fertilizers applied. Iodine-containing materials are: manure, peat, peat and wood ash, phosphate rock. If there is suitable soil or fertilizing, spraying tomatoes with milk with iodine is carried out only if problems arise that may indicate the need for action.

These are:

• a decrease in the usual level of yield or a significant decrease in the size of the fruit while maintaining normal care;
• late fruiting;
• low immunity of seedlings: their poor growth, disease, death;
• the appearance of fungal diseases;
• manifestation of iodine deficiency: weak thin stems, pale leaves.

A fertilizer for tomatoes such as fertilizing with iodine will help solve the difficulties that have arisen.

The effect of iodine on seedlings

Most often, the element is used as a good assistant only for tomato seedlings before the ovaries appear - its application later is not recommended. During this period, it helps the vegetable crop gain nutrients. This substance in itself is not a nutritional supplement. This is a powerful antiseptic, the use of which helps to cope with rot, fungal diseases, and disinfect seeds. Prevention of viral diseases is of particular importance.

Milk for vegetables

Using milk in combination with tomatoes has only positive effects. Firstly, this is an environmentally friendly product. Secondly, it is saturated with many useful substances that are absorbed by the vegetable during growth. Thirdly, milk contains amino acids that activate plant growth.

All this helps to improve metabolic processes and better absorption of nutrients. Therefore, the greatest effect in the case of tomatoes can be obtained by using milk solutions during the growth and formation of fruits.

Feeding with a solution can be either root or foliar - each of them will have its own effect: root - saturate the soil with useful microelements, and foliar - protect from pests.

Raw milk is most suitable for these purposes, but if it is not possible to get it, a pasteurized product or yogurt is also used. Whey, which is formed during souring, is often used. The most effective treatment will be with a specially prepared solution, which has a complex effect.

Milk with iodine

A wonderful foliar feeding is treating tomatoes with milk and iodine. This method additionally helps to protect them from pests, since almost all insects cannot tolerate lactose and milk sugar. After the spraying procedure, a film is formed on the surface of the leaves, which prevents pathogens of many diseases from penetrating inside. This method is especially useful in the fight against fungal infections.

The mixture is prepared as follows: take 4 liters of water and 1 liter of milk, to which 15 drops of iodine are added. We’ll talk further about how to water tomatoes with iodine.

Features of application

Treatment with the solution can be carried out for tomatoes in a greenhouse or growing in open ground. But you must comply with some conditions:

• there should be no direct sunlight;
• watering the seedlings is carried out in the morning or evening;
• the weather should be dry and windless, otherwise the mixture will drain from the leaves;
• The best air temperature for this procedure is about 18 degrees.

This is important, since treatment with iodine solution in hot or sunny weather, as well as incorrect dosage, can lead to burns on the surface of the leaves.

Ideally, the plant should “envelop” a cloud of the mixture and be evenly distributed throughout the entire seedling, for which the tomato is sprayed with iodine using a fine spray bottle.

Compliance with processing deadlines is also important. It is first produced 2 weeks after planting. July is considered the best period, since it is at this time that active growth occurs. Next, the procedure is repeated at intervals of 14 days if nothing bothers the vegetable. When problems arise, actions will be different.

You can feed seedlings even if there are no problems, but the plants grow in “poor” soil. This will help add nutrients and prevent disease.

They do this as follows:

1. For the first time, you should feed the tomatoes with the solution at the seedling level. To do this, take 1 liter of milk and 15 drops of iodine solution per bucket of water. Seedlings need to be sprayed completely.
2. Then, feeding the tomatoes with iodine is done after planting in the ground. You need to feed with a mixture of 5 liters of water, 1 liter of milk and 10 drops of iodine solution. The bushes are treated before flowering begins. You can repeat the procedure after 3 days.
3. During fruiting, tomato seedlings are treated, if necessary, every 2 weeks with iodine serum.

Benefit in fighting diseases: late blight

This iodine method of control is especially effective in combating fungal diseases. This will help with the spread of “brown spot”, “gray rot”, “tobacco mosaic virus”, and fusarium wilt.

A particularly common problem is a fungal infection called “late blight”: if the disease spreads and measures are delayed, up to 70% of the entire crop can die.

The pathogen is spread by spores, and signs of the disease are:

• dark spots on the back of the leaves;
• leaves become brown and dry out;
• the fruits gradually turn black.

Infected parts of the plant are almost impossible to save. They are removed, removed and burned, or the whole plant is disposed of in the same way. Fire helps prevent the spread of spores. Favorable conditions for the development of this disease are calcareous soils and high humidity, so the greenhouse must be ventilated as often as possible. Weak plants that lack nutrients are at greatest risk of infection.

All control methods are based on environmental disinfection. The principle of spraying for tomato seedlings and adult plants will be approximately the same. Since iodine is an antiseptic, and milk has an acidic environment, which is detrimental to late blight, this method is ideal.

To stop the spread of late blight, seedlings should be sprayed regularly, preferably every day. After this, you should not water the vegetables.

​Similar articles​

​Fitosporin:​

Why spray tomatoes with iodine?

​Yeast:​

​5) at the first signs of the disease, chop 100 g of garlic, pour in 2 liters of water, cover, leave for half an hour and pour the pulp over the fruits.​

Feeding tomatoes with milk and iodine

​Milk and iodine:​

​about late blight and mildew.​

​Many gardeners fight this scourge with their own, so to speak, “folk” remedies: some spray with garlic, others with iodine, milk, mustard, and something else. Some people pierce a tomato stem with copper wire (3-5 cm long). The Germans have generally patented this method of preventing late blight: before planting tomato seedlings in the ground, their roots are wrapped with fifty centimeters of copper wire (the wire has a cross-section of 0.5 mm).​

womanadvice.ru

How to spray tomatoes with boric acid? - The magic of plants

What to do to prevent tomatoes from getting sick? Late blight disease is promoted by dense plantings, mutual shading of plants, insufficient pruning of old leaves, contamination of the soil with weeds, abuse of nitrogen fertilizers or other violations of agricultural practices. Late blight can also develop when tomatoes lack potassium, copper, iodine and manganese.​ Boron deficiency With the foliar method, a plant that already has fruits is sprayed. Take 1 liter of hot water, but not boiling water, add 1 g of boric acid. First, dissolve the acid in a small amount of hot water, then add the required volume of cold water to the required level. The first time is sprayed at the beginning of the formation of buds, the second - when most of the buds have bloomed, the third - when the fruits form. Fight against late blight ​With a lack of boron, the young leaves at the top of the plant become discolored at the base, but the top itself remains green for some time. Then the upper leaves acquire an unhealthy light green color and they curl. The veins become black or brown. If you want to bend a piece of paper, it will quickly break. The tomato stem also changes - its growing point turns black. Brown spots are visible on the fruits. All this indicates a lack of acid. ​Who doesn’t love a salad made from delicious, aromatic tomatoes grown with their own hands, without any chemicals? Everyone loves it, but not many people decide to grow it. The thing is that tomatoes are quite easily susceptible to all sorts of diseases and at first glance it may seem that they cannot do without chemicals. People without experience, faced with such a problem, refuse to grow tomatoes in the future.​ How and when to add acid? ​watering and spraying with the working solution in accordance with the instructions. It is noteworthy that the bacterium Bacillus subtilis, which forms the basis of phytosporin, remains viable at low temperatures, therefore, for prevention, you can carry out preventive watering all autumn, until the soil freezes, and resume it in the spring immediately after thawing. When processing, it is important to remember that phytosporin is incompatible with drugs that have an alkaline reaction.​ ​100 g per 10 liters of water. Use for spraying. Yeast inhibits the growth of other microorganisms.​ ​Dung:​ ​Pour 1 liter of fresh skim milk or kefir into a bucket of water, add 20–25 drops of iodine and mix well. Use for spraying.​ ​How to save tomatoes from late blight?​ ​You can simply grow tomatoes in a greenhouse at low humidity (do not water from above, but only at the root) and not worry about late blight. But not everyone has it and not everyone likes “closed ground”. Moreover, the greenhouse has its own diseases, for example, cladosporiosis - brown spot, although this disease is not as fleeting as late blight, but it also does not bring anything good.​ ​Before sowing, tomato seeds must be pickled in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Planting seedlings is combined with treating the roots with Baktofit; it is used with watering at the root.​ ​Folk remedies for late blight of tomatoes​ To prevent tomatoes from getting late blight, you need to spray them from June 15th like this: If there is a lack of boron, tomatoes produce a poor harvest, as some of the fruits rot. Boron helps tomatoes “extract” nutrients from the soil.​

ladym.ru

Tomato varieties resistant to late blight

​But you shouldn't do this. Experienced gardeners, having tried many traditional methods, have learned to deal with tomato diseases without using chemicals that are harmful to humans. One such method is spraying tomatoes with iodine solution.​

​tsvetnik.info​

​Calcium chloride:​

• ​Dilute 1/2 liter of fresh mullein in 10-12 liters of water, spray the solution on potatoes, tomatoes and, if necessary, peppers and eggplants. Treatment is carried out in early and mid-June; in this case, the plants get sick less.

​Salt solution (10%):​

​Deceive late blight.​

​The best remedy for late blight, especially since it is biologically based, but for some reason has long been forgotten (everyone began to rely on serum with iodine!) is sowing mustard in a greenhouse next to tomatoes (literally 5-7 grains per linear meter and basil (1 plant per 30-40 cm). It is better to plant basil as seedlings. Mustard must be regularly pruned in flower, then it will grow all summer, and bacteria of the genus Pseudomonas will breed in its roots. These bacteria “take away” spores living in the soil phytophthora iron, without which the spores cannot wake up (iron turns into compounds consumed by plants). When the threat of phytophthora has passed, you can stop pruning the mustard. If it manages to produce seeds, then green manure will self-sow, which is very useful for enriching the soil. It will be enough in the spring, plow the green mass into the soil.

There are no tomato varieties that are completely resistant to late blight. You can grow early ripening varieties and hybrids that will produce a harvest before the onset of cool weather. And for those gardeners who like to grow various varieties of tomatoes, the advice is this: use fungicides.​

Late blight of tomatoes: photo

​At temperatures below +15°C and high humidity, late blight begins to develop intensively on tomatoes. This is a fungal disease and as soon as one spore of the fungus of this infection gets on the bush, everything around it begins to become covered with dark spots in a matter of days.​

​First, spray the bushes with a pale pink solution of manganese.​

Means to combat late blight

​Spraying tomatoes with boric acid is necessary to combat late blight. Late blight is a disease spread by the late blight fungus. Its mycelium affects the intercellular spaces of tissues. To prevent tomatoes from getting sick, it is recommended to burn old tops.​

Plants have a very low need for iodine, and the microdoses found in the soil are quite enough for them. That's why there are no special iodine fertilizers.​

During the season (June, July) I used the copper-containing preparation “Hom” for foliar treatment once, and “Energen” twice. At the beginning of August I used Fitosporin once. There was no late blight, although all my neighbor’s tomatoes were infected, but she did not treat them with anything. Lyudmila Volkova

In case of severe late blight, use a 1% solution of calcium chloride (pharmacies sell a 10% solution in 200 ml bottles. The bottle should be dissolved in 2 liters of water). Spray the fruits. You need to spray the stalk especially carefully, since it is the stalk that carries the infection from the bush itself to the fruit.

​1 kg / some say 1 glass / salt per 10 liters of water. If spots appear, tear off all damaged leaves and fruits, and spray the bushes with saline solution. Salt forms a thin film on the surface of healthy leaves that prevents the spread of infection. It is clear that in the rain this method is useless if the bushes are not under cover.​

​ogorodnizza.blogspot.ru​

​By the way, basil growing in tomatoes improves their taste and repels hornworms.​

Folk remedies for late blight of tomatoes

​Fungicides should be applied when night temperatures begin to drop below 10°C or when it rains constantly. In many areas this occurs in late July - early August. Spraying is usually carried out once a week, alternating preparations with different active ingredients.

​Usually late blight is introduced from potato plantings, so tomatoes and potatoes should grow at a decent distance from each other.​

​After a week has passed, apply boric acid. 1 teaspoon of acid is poured into 10 liters of water.​

​During the disease, dark spots first appear on the leaves, then form on the fruits, and finally on the stems. After rain, the spots have an oily light coating.​

However, if we talk about tomatoes, they have a special relationship with this element. Iodine has a beneficial effect on fruiting, as it is beneficial for the ovary of a tomato. While growing seedlings, water each bush once with a weak iodine solution (two drops per 4 liters of water). Thanks to this, the flower brushes will become branched with a good ovary and will develop quickly.​

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Fighting late blight: folk remedies.

​And last year I fought late blight and... defeated it. For the first time in 10 years of gardening. I'll share how. In mid-June, I spray the tomatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. A week later - with a solution of boric acid (1 teaspoon of boric acid per 10 liters of water). A week later, iodine solution (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). This is quite enough for the whole summer.​

​Copper wire:​

Throw a handful of sifted stove ash up from you, so that the ash settles on the plants, on the walls of the greenhouse and on the soil. Pollination is repeated every 3–5 days.

​Garlic:​

​Potassium permanganate:​

​How do you fight late blight? Did you manage to win?

​The least harmful biological preparations for humans are Fitosporin, Trichodermin, etc. They contain live fungi and bacteria that can destroy and suppress the growth of pathogenic fungi.​

​In sunny, dry weather this disease does not develop. It is also an infrequent guest in greenhouses; plants that grow outside get sick much more often.​

After another week, spray the plants with iodine. Take raw milk, but if you don't have it, then use sterilized milk. Make a solution: pour 4 liters of water into 1 liter of milk and add 15 drops of iodine.​
You should spray tomatoes like this:
​Milk solution + iodine = not only an ideal fertilizer for tomatoes, but also an excellent way to combat many pests, since almost all insects do not digest lactose and milk sugar. After milk spraying, a thin film is formed on the leaves of the plant, which prevents the penetration of all kinds of pathogens.

​August 4 must be covered overnight with film, or earlier, at the end of July. We've been doing this for 10 years - I don't even remember late blight.​

Cut thin copper wire into pieces of 3-4 cm, sand it with sandpaper, pierce the stem of each plant right through at the bottom, bend the ends of the wire down (but do not twist it around the stem!). It is assumed that in this way the plant is saturated with copper in quantities sufficient to prevent late blight.

​Tinder fungus:​

​1) Grind 500 g of garlic, add 3 liters of water, leave in a dark place for 5 days. Dilute 60 g of infusion in 10 liters of water, add 50 g of laundry soap for better adhesion, and spray the bushes.​

​Before sowing, soak the seeds for 20 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, then rinse thoroughly.​

​Fighting late blight: folk remedies​
​Traditional Bordeaux mixture helps well against late blight. Plants are sprayed with a 1% solution at intervals of 10-12 days until the fruits turn brown. 10 days before the first harvest of tomatoes, processing should be stopped.
What does late blight of tomatoes look like? These are brown spots, first on the leaves of tomatoes, then on the fruits. Depending on the conditions, this disease develops faster or slower. The worst thing is that picked green tomatoes, which looked absolutely healthy, can easily become stained during storage.​
​It turns out that it is recommended to spray tomatoes to accelerate the ovary and ripening of fruits, to stimulate new growth points of roots and stems, to increase the sugar content of fruits, and to combat late blight.​
​Tomato seeds are soaked in a solution made as follows: 0.2 g of boron per 1 liter of artesian or plain water. This helps the seeds hatch faster. Tomato seeds are immersed in the composition for 24 hours.

​For such sprayings, it is better to take raw milk, but if it is not possible to find raw milk, then sterilized milk will do just fine. It cannot be used in its pure form, as this will only harm your plants. Ideal proportions for the solution: 4 liters of water, 1 liter of milk plus 15 drops of iodine.​

​I spray it during fruit growth and setting with this solution: for 10 liters of water, 2 liters of homemade whey, 2 tablespoons of wood. ash, 10 drops of iodine. I spray once every two weeks. This serves both as protection against late blight and as feeding.​

​Recently, microbiological protection products have been increasingly used.​

​Crush ordinary wood tinder fungus, pour boiling water (1 liter per 100 g of mushroom), wait until it cools, strain, spray the plants at intervals of 10 days.​

​2) 150 g of garlic or 300 g of its waste (husks, arrows, yellowing leaves) pass through a meat grinder, stir in 10 liters of water, make a daily infusion, strain, spray the bushes.​

​Once a week, water the beds with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.​

​Video​

​Another effective drug is copper chloride. Dissolve 40 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. One liter is enough for 10 square meters. meters. Treatment with this solution is stopped 20 days before harvesting the fruits.

What does late blight of tomatoes look like? These are brown spots, first on the leaves of tomatoes, then on the fruits. Depending on the conditions, this disease develops faster or slower. The worst thing is that picked green tomatoes, which looked absolutely healthy, can easily become stained during storage.​

​We can say about any early-ripening tomato varieties that these are varieties resistant to late blight, since they ripen before this disease begins to manifest itself.​

​Combine 1 liter of artesian or plain water, 0.5 g of methylthionium chloride, 0.5 g of zinc sulfate, 0.3 g of boric acid, 1 g of ammonium molybdate, 1 g of potassium permanganate, 0.5 g of copper sulfate. Then tomato seeds are placed there. Then they are dried and sown.​

But if late blight is rampant in your area, then already at the beginning of June, the tomatoes need to be sprayed with iodine serum. The serum contains useful microelements and vitamin B, so it will provide both nutrition and prevention against such a dangerous disease.​

It is also very good to spray with phytosporin. You can add phytosporin to the serum solution.​

​EM drugs:​

​Iodine:​
​3) 1.5 cups of garlic pulp and 1.5 g of potassium permanganate (diluted in hot water) per 10 liters of water. The plants are sprayed 2 weeks after planting the seedlings, and then at intervals of 10 days. If the weather worsens, place the collected green tomatoes for 20-25 minutes in a hot solution of potassium permanganate (t +50C), wipe dry with a soft cloth and put them to ripening. It is advisable to wrap each fruit in paper so that if late blight appears, it will not spread to neighboring fruits.​

​Rules for watering garden plants and preventing late blight​

​And yet, having studied the reviews of gardeners, it can be noted that the following varieties are least susceptible to late blight: Sanka, Dachnik, Early Sun, Firewood, Idol, O-la-la, Apple Spas, Puzata Khata, Salting Miracle, Siberian Precocious. ​

​Acid is added to the soil before sowing tomato seeds or planting seedlings. 2 g of acid should be diluted in 10 liters of water and poured onto 10 square meters. m, then loosen the soil.​

​Spraying is done with foliar feeding. The solution should be applied to the tomatoes with a small sprayer. 10 ml of boron solution is used for one small plant. When the seedlings grow, use 1.5 times more solution.

I have been using only phytosporin for several years now. Before planting, I dip the seedlings in a phytosporin solution. About a week after planting the seedlings, you need to spray the soil around the tomatoes well. Next, when the ovaries appear, process the tomatoes and again after 2-3 weeks. The fruits practically do not disappear, although there are some varieties that are still affected, even with the same processing and care.​

​watering and spraying with a protective EM extract and a high concentration EM solution, spraying with a protective agent EM5.​

​at the beginning of the disease, take 10 ml of 5% iodine per 10 liters of water and spray the plants. Repeat spraying after 3 days. The solution stays closed in a dark place for an unlimited time and is used against all fungal diseases on other plants.​

​4) 200 g of the whole garlic plant (you can use just the arrows) through a meat grinder, add 1 tbsp. dry mustard, 1 tbsp. hot pepper, add water, leave for 24 hours. Then strain, bring the volume to 10 liters with water. Plants are treated every 10 days. The drug is also effective against cucumber aphids, spider mites, cutworms and white moths.​