Black aphids appeared on viburnum, how to get rid of them. Black aphid on viburnum: effective control methods

Viburnum is a plant that has long been known for its healing properties. It is even mentioned in folk art: songs and poems. But, like any other flowering shrub, viburnum is susceptible to various diseases, especially it suffers from “raids” of black aphids. Today we will talk about how to fight this pest: how to treat viburnum in the spring to get rid of aphids.

Black aphid: briefly about the pest

Black aphids are an incredibly resilient and extremely rapidly reproducing insect pest. It feeds only on viburnum. Adults are small in size and dark brown or dark crimson in color. The females of this pest lay their eggs on the bark not far from the viburnum buds. By spring, larvae emerge from them and begin to actively feed on the vital juices of viburnum leaves. As a result, they begin to curl, and young shoots stop growing. By the end of August, winged individuals strive to “stake out” new viburnum bushes (by the way, the common viburnum is often mistakenly considered a tree, but in fact it belongs to deciduous shrubs). And by mid-September, female black aphids lay eggs with future offspring for wintering.

Attention! Female black aphids are incredibly fertile: they can produce offspring in the amount of several hundred thousand, and all of them are capable of creating offspring.

The pest should be destroyed immediately after its discovery. Most often, aphids can be seen on young shoots of viburnum in May-June - they can be destroyed by using folk remedies, without the use of chemicals. Once you start the situation, it will be much more difficult to get rid of the pest.

Folk remedies are effective in the fight against aphids

The most effective methods of controlling black aphids

When black aphids are detected on viburnum, the first step is to eliminate the possible wintering site of these pests, and only then begin to treat the plant with various compounds. So, if you notice at least a few individuals on a bush, immediately cut out and destroy the growth located at the root. This will prevent the aphids from laying their eggs, since that is where they prefer to hide them. After this, you can begin to combat the pest directly. Let's look at the most effective ways.

Folk remedies

Experienced gardeners most often use the following folk remedies to protect viburnum:

  • Soap solution. To create such a solution, both the cheapest washing powder and laundry soap are suitable. A large bucket of water takes about 300 g of powder/soap. It is enough to treat the viburnum bush with the resulting solution 2-3 times during the week, and when the aphids die, simply wash it off from the hose with a powerful stream of water.
  • Ash solution. You need to dissolve about 300 g of ash in a bucket of hot water, boil the solution and dilute about 50 g of laundry soap in it.
  • Infusion of potato tops. Pour 1 kg of young potato tops (absolutely healthy) with hot water, leave for a couple of hours and strain. Treat viburnum with the prepared infusion until the pests completely disappear.
  • Tobacco solution. Black aphids really don't like tobacco, so it can be an excellent way to combat it. We will need about 250 g of tobacco, which must be infused in 5 liters of water for 2 days. Then filter the infusion and dilute with the same amount of water.
  • Infusion of Caucasian/pharmaceutical chamomile. If you use pharmaceutical chamomile, you will need about 1 kg of dried inflorescences and leaves, and a bucket of water. Let the raw material infuse for 13-14 hours, then filter. Viburnum should be sprayed with a composition consisting of 1/3 chamomile infusion and 2/3 water. If desired, you can add a little laundry soap. If you use Caucasian chamomile as a raw material, you will need about 300 g of dried flowers, which must first be crushed, then poured with a small amount of water, left for a couple of hours and diluted with another 10 liters. Then immediately spray the viburnum.
  • Infusion of black henbane. To prepare an infusion of henbane, it is necessary to make preliminary preparations: we will need to either dry 0.5 kg of rosette leaves and roots (we use a plant no older than one year), or 1 kg of the above-ground part of henbane (two-year-old). Fill the dried plant with 10 liters of water and leave for 13 hours. Immediately before spraying the viburnum, add 5 g of laundry soap to the prepared infusion.

When using chemicals, do not forget to wear a protective suit for yourself.

Chemicals

Products of artificial origin are used much less frequently in the fight against aphids, since they have a negative impact on humans and their environment. These agents can be divided into several categories: contact, intestinal and systemic action.

  • Drugs belonging to the first type penetrate the subcutaneous layer of the insect and kill it. The most popular drugs are the following: Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.
  • Drugs belonging to the second type penetrate the insect’s digestive tract and poison it or paralyze it, which subsequently leads to its death. Such drugs are rarely produced in their pure form; most often they are combined with drugs of the first type. The most popular: Aktellik, Confidor, etc.
  • Drugs belonging to the third type are the most effective, long-acting, but at the same time the most dangerous: they penetrate not only into the body of insects, but also into the soil, the plant and even its fruits and remain there for several weeks. The most effective drugs of this type include the following: Tanrek, Komandor, Biotlin, etc.

Birds and insects

Small birds cope well with black aphids. Thus, titmice, warblers, linnets, wrens and others feed the pest to their chicks. To attract these birds to your garden, build small feeders, birdhouses, arrange small ponds, or place containers of water in the area.

Also, some types of insects are excellent protectors against black aphids, such as ladybugs (especially their larvae), lacewings, ground beetles, and bedbugs (predators).

Ladybugs will help you destroy aphids

Attention. The black aphid's faithful allies are black ants, which feed on its sweet secretions and carefully guard it. To drive away ants, it is necessary to destroy their anthill: boiling water, which must be poured over the ant “house”, or slaked lime, which must be sprinkled with it, is suitable for this purpose.

garden plants

Oddly enough, they can also become an excellent weapon in the fight against black aphids. Some of them can be used as bait because they attract with their smell, others as a repeller. So, nasturtium, mallow, beans, etc. usually planted at some distance from viburnum to distract aphids. But it is advisable to plant fragrant herbs, garlic, onions, mint, coriander, etc. directly next to the bush in order to discourage aphids from “visiting” the shrub plant you planted.

Our material has come to an end. We looked at a wide variety of ways to combat aphids, both biological and chemical in origin. Be sure to use at least a few of them, and you can protect your viburnum. Good luck!

Fighting aphids: video

Aphids on viburnum: photo


Viburnum is a plant whose healing properties have been known to people since ancient times. The unpretentious crop grows quickly and bears fruit. However, like other flowering shrubs, it can be susceptible to various diseases. The planting especially suffers from attacks - insects that infect literally all fruit trees, preventing them from growing or blooming. Therefore, the question of how to deal with aphids on viburnum is of concern to every owner of a personal plot.

About black aphids and the harm they cause

Black aphids on viburnum are one of the most common pests that live on shrubs. The small insect sucks out the beneficial juices of the plant. At the end of summer, mature females lay eggs in the basal shoots, where they subsequently overwinter.

With the arrival of warm days, larvae emerge from the laid eggs and begin to feed on the sap of young leaves. The result is curling and deformation of the leaves, as well as the appearance of dark spots on them. This in turn leads to damage to young shoots and their drying out.

And if you do not protect the viburnum in time, then it is unlikely that you will be able to wait until its useful fruits are harvested. Since at the end of spring, the stronger larvae turn into winged individuals capable of reproduction, the mating of which increases the size of the pest population significantly. By winter, they lay eggs, and the cycle repeats again. In this connection, the fight against aphids on viburnum should be carried out in a timely manner and begin even before the first leaves appear.

The black aphid spends its entire life on viburnum, resulting in several generations being born. However, the pest can also attack other plants. Therefore, in order to save viburnum and other crops in the garden, it is necessary to destroy aphids as quickly as possible, since in the early stages of the pest’s “dispersal” this is much easier to do.

How to deal with aphids

Pest control is carried out in several stages.

  1. Having discovered black aphids on viburnum, it is necessary to destroy its possible wintering site. To do this, you need to cut out the growth located near the root. This will make it impossible for the pest to lay eggs in its favorite place.
  2. The next step is to use chemical or folk remedies to treat the bush.

Chemicals

It is necessary to fight aphids on viburnum with help in early spring. Many gardeners are puzzled as to which product is best to use. Experts recommend using systemic agents in such a situation. Absorbed into the plant tissue, they negatively affect insects that feed on the sap of this crop.

It is preferable to use drugs based on neonicotinoids or organophosphorus compounds to combat aphids. These include:

  • Karbofos;
  • Decis;
  • Prestige;
  • Fufanon;
  • Aktellik and others.

Before the buds appear, the viburnum bush can also be treated with Nitrafen infusion (200 g of product per 1 liter of water). We should also not forget that one of the main reasons for the spread of aphids is ants that feed on the pest’s secretions. Therefore, similar means are used when an ant nest is discovered in a personal plot.

Folk remedies

However, despite the effectiveness of pesticides, many gardening enthusiasts prefer to do without chemicals because they are much safer. And when used correctly and regularly, they are no less effective. Therefore, to treat viburnum against aphids during flowering, it is preferable to use various herbal infusions and decoctions. After all, toxic components may end up on flowers, as a result of which the bees pollinating the bush will also suffer.

Ash

Herbs

Herbal infusions are also effective against aphids. Wormwood, yarrow, dandelion, tansy or crushed and poured boiling water in a ratio of 1:10. Boil for 30 minutes and leave for 1-2 days. After which the planting is treated with the strained infusion.

You can also spray viburnum in the spring and. Many insects cannot stand its smell, and aphids are no exception. To prepare a tobacco solution, 250 g of the product is poured into 5 liters of water and infused for 2 days. The strained infusion is supplemented with the same amount of water and used in a similar way.

Potato tops

When aphids attack viburnum, you can also use potato or tomato tops. 1 kg of product is crushed and poured into 10 liters of water. The mixture is boiled for 30 minutes. Then leave for 1 day. Then it is filtered and used for spraying. It is preferable to prepare such an infusion in advance, since the more it is infused, the more concentrated and effective its composition will be.

Needles

An infusion of pine needles is no less effective against aphids. 200 g of the product must be steamed with one liter of boiling water and left in an airtight container for at least 2 days. Next, the infusion is filtered and used for its intended purpose.

Laundry soap

You can also spray viburnum in May against aphids. A bar of laundry soap is grated and diluted in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is used to irrigate the viburnum branches affected by the pest.

They have also proven effective in controlling aphids.

Aphids also often appear on viburnum buldenezh, a tall ornamental bush with white flowers. In this case, you can fight the pest using any of the above methods.

I talked to the neighbors and they advised me to just trim it and not bother – they say, it’s just time to rejuvenate the bush. Okay, I cut it off, but for some reason I wasn’t even very surprised when the problems didn’t end there. The weakened bush was attacked by aphids, hordes of aphids! And, judging by the comments and other garden blogs, this problem affected not only my garden; the spring heat clearly suited the aphids.

This is such a sad picture...

Aphids are small translucent insects with short legs and have the distinct character of a homebody vampire. It can be green, black, brown, often without wings, but it spreads using the winged stage of development. Or with the help of ants, who so love the sweetish secretions secreted by aphids, the so-called “honeydew”, that they are ready to graze the precious “ladies” on the best and juiciest plants of our garden.. And this moment is very important, because without scaring off the ants from the garden plot, fighting aphids is a rather useless task.

How to get rid of ants on your property

What do we choose: kill or drive out? Let's leave aside for now everything that is bright and good in our souls and turn to the harsh truth of life: are there any benefits from ants in the garden? Ants are famous orderlies, they feed on all sorts of caterpillars, and in addition they make a lot of tunnels in the soil, loosening the ground. It is believed that the waste products of ants provide plants with phosphorus and potassium in a highly digestible form. Eternal workers have only one drawback: a love of sweets! The love is understandable, but unpleasant for gardeners: in addition to spreading aphids, ants gnaw flower petals (my roses, for example, suffered greatly this spring), berries and sweet vegetables, such as carrots or pumpkin.

First of all, we removed stumps from old branches from the center of the viburnum bush; the oldest of them were clearly used by the ants to reach the surface. Then I filled the entrances near the viburnum with boiling water with the addition of soda (4 tablespoons per 3 liters of water) and poured a packet of mustard powder on top - it helped, the ants moved the entrance to the anthill by twenty centimeters, but on the viburnum itself their numbers dropped noticeably. A more effective way is to dig up the anthill and pour boiling water inside, but I was afraid to burn the roots. It is also advised to sprinkle the plants and the ground around them with ash - I tried this method on a rose, it helped, the ants stopped gnawing on the buds. True, at about the same time I fed the rose with an infusion of weeds - they say its smell also repels pests. When sowing seeds in the ground in one place, I tried to sprinkle the ground with semolina - the flowers did not sprout, but the ants are still there.

What else can you try to fight ants?: wrap with rags soaked in kerosene, lubricate the branches at the base of the bush with unrefined sunflower oil (with scent).
To destroy: a mixture of borax with sugar, “Great Warrior” gel, pollinate the egg pods with Phenaxin or Ant, pour a bucket of water with a dissolved ampoule of Anteater or Maracid into the dug anthill.

How to fight aphids on plants

So, the ants have been driven away, let's start saving plants from aphids.

Spraying them with Coca-Cola (or Pepsi-Cola) is very convenient to spray from a spray bottle, but it had no effect on my aphids at all, except that the wasps began to fly to the sweet caffeine more often. I tried it on viburnum, chamomile, currants, mock orange. By the way, viburnum grows quite far from the rest of the garden, which didn’t help.

Spraying with an infusion of ash (a glass of ash is poured with a liter of boiling water and left for a day, then add 40 g of grated laundry soap and dilute with water to 10 liters) - it helps! , so you have to water from a mug, trying to unwrap each leaf with your other hand - it’s boring, disgusting, inconvenient with high branches - but the method works. One more thing - if you process viburnum during flowering, you may not be able to wait for berries later. Either the aphids manage to suck out the juices, or the ash “burns” the tender ovaries, but the ovaries become sharply smaller and then break off along with the remains of the flowers at the slightest touch. I haven’t tried it on currants yet, but on currants the aphids have taken a liking to the foliage, and on perennial chamomile they have come close to the flowers - it’s already scary, in case they burn them.

Kizima writes that aphids usually do not attack plants treated with “Healthy Garden” (2, and in extreme cases 4 grains per liter of water) - they must be treated every two weeks and, accordingly, begin in early spring. I started in May, two treatments did not give any visible results, then there was no time for “homeopathy” anymore..

What else can you try to get rid of aphids?: infusion of pine needles (2.5 kg per 10 liters of water, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters), infusion of garlic or celandine with the addition of soap, infusion of citrus peels (pour boiling water, leave for 3-5 days in the dark, strain and add laundry soap); before the start of sap flow, 0.7% solution (700 g per 10 l) of urea; sprinkle the bush with dry tobacco dust; biological preparations: fitoverm, agravertin.

A photo of the same bush two years ago, the very beginning of flowering - I really hope that someday our viburnum will regain its former splendor.

How to deal with aphids on viburnum, many gardeners and gardeners wonder. The plant attracts pests, creates a favorable environment for the development of their larvae, and promotes the spread of insects throughout the land. Protecting viburnum and preventing the spread of aphids is the responsibility of every gardener.

Viburnum Pests

The most common pest of viburnum is. The insect spends its entire life on the bush. Adults lay eggs on the bark near the buds in late August and early September. They will have to spend the winter in this state.

In May, winged individuals appear. These are sexually mature females and males ready for fertilization. After the mating process, the aphid spreads to other trees and lays eggs that are destined to overwinter. In spring the cycle repeats.


Black aphids on viburnum are a real disaster for the planting and surrounding plants. It is necessary to begin the fight early in the spring, even before the first leaves bloom.

On a note!

The pest has the ability to migrate to other plants, but lives exclusively on viburnum. During the entire growing season of the shrub, several generations of insects develop.

Professional products

If the viburnum is attacked by aphids, you can fight it professionally using insecticides. The active components of the product block nerve impulses, causing paralysis and early death. The minimum dose of poison is enough to cause death.

The advantages of this method of control are high efficiency, quick results, preservation of properties for up to 20 days. The insecticidal agent destroys adults and larvae of all ages.


The drug is sold as a concentrate. Before use, you should prepare a solution by diluting it in a certain amount of water. Usually 10 l. While working, you must wear rubber gloves and carry out the procedure in the morning and evening in dry, windless weather.

The most effective means:

  • Aktellik;
  • Karbofos;
  • Prestige;
  • Fufanon;
  • Decis;
  • Inta-Vira.

Which drug to use is an individual decision. All of them act immediately, mass death of aphids is observed within a week, and retain their properties for up to 20 days.

Folk recipes


The fight against aphids on viburnum is carried out using all known methods. are very diverse and unique, making it possible to do without chemicals.

  • In order to save the viburnum and thoroughly overcome black aphids, it is necessary to cut out the shoots that are located at the roots in late autumn. It is in this place that the aphid lays eggs and leaves them to overwinter. In the spring, when the bush begins to bloom, pour hot water onto the soil at the root.
  • Natural enemies of insects - lacewing larvae, hoverflies - can destroy aphids.
  • You can spray viburnum with a solution of onion peels. Pests cannot stand this smell and try to hide from it quickly. 200 g of husks are combined with 500 g of wood ash, 200 g. Pour in 10 liters of water. Leave to infuse for 5 days. Before use, add and filter the finished product. It is necessary to spray viburnum in May even before the first leaves bloom, or during the flowering period. Repeat the procedure every week until the pests disappear.
  • Add spices to the water - cinnamon, red, black pepper, soap solution. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle or spray bottle. The first time you need to spray the viburnum is in the spring, then this should be done every month with a break of 7-14 days.
  • You can get rid of aphids with a strong tincture of

Viburnum is a plant that has long been known for its healing properties. It is even mentioned in folk art: songs and poems. But, like any other flowering shrub, viburnum is susceptible to various diseases, especially it suffers from “raids” of black aphids. Today we will talk about how to fight this pest: how to treat viburnum in the spring to get rid of aphids.

Black aphid: briefly about the pest

Black aphids are an incredibly resilient and extremely rapidly reproducing insect pest. It feeds only on viburnum. Adults are small in size and dark brown or dark crimson in color. The females of this pest lay their eggs on the bark not far from the viburnum buds. By spring, larvae emerge from them and begin to actively feed on the vital juices of viburnum leaves. As a result, they begin to curl, and young shoots stop growing. By the end of August, winged individuals strive to “stake out” new viburnum bushes (by the way, the common viburnum is often mistakenly considered a tree, but in fact it belongs to deciduous shrubs). And by mid-September, female black aphids lay eggs with future offspring for wintering.

Attention! Female black aphids are incredibly fertile: they can produce offspring in the amount of several hundred thousand, and all of them are capable of creating offspring.

The pest should be destroyed immediately after its discovery. Most often, aphids can be seen on young shoots of viburnum in May-June - they can be destroyed by using folk remedies, without the use of chemicals. Once you start the situation, it will be much more difficult to get rid of the pest.


Folk remedies are effective in the fight against aphids

The most effective methods of controlling black aphids

When black aphids are detected on viburnum, the first step is to eliminate the possible wintering site of these pests, and only then begin to treat the plant with various compounds. So, if you notice at least a few individuals on a bush, immediately cut out and destroy the growth located at the root. This will prevent the aphids from laying their eggs, since that is where they prefer to hide them. After this, you can begin to combat the pest directly. Let's look at the most effective ways.

Folk remedies

Experienced gardeners most often use the following folk remedies to protect viburnum:

  • Soap solution. To create such a solution, both the cheapest washing powder and laundry soap are suitable. A large bucket of water takes about 300 g of powder/soap. It is enough to treat the viburnum bush with the resulting solution 2-3 times during the week, and when the aphids die, simply wash it off from the hose with a powerful stream of water.
  • Ash solution. You need to dissolve about 300 g of ash in a bucket of hot water, boil the solution and dilute about 50 g of laundry soap in it.
  • Infusion of potato tops. Pour 1 kg of young potato tops (absolutely healthy) with hot water, leave for a couple of hours and strain. Treat viburnum with the prepared infusion until the pests completely disappear.
  • Tobacco solution. Black aphids really don't like tobacco, so it can be an excellent way to combat it. We will need about 250 g of tobacco, which must be infused in 5 liters of water for 2 days. Then filter the infusion and dilute with the same amount of water.
  • Infusion of Caucasian/pharmaceutical chamomile. If you use pharmaceutical chamomile, you will need about 1 kg of dried inflorescences and leaves, and a bucket of water. Let the raw material infuse for 13-14 hours, then filter. Viburnum should be sprayed with a composition consisting of 1/3 chamomile infusion and 2/3 water. If desired, you can add a little laundry soap. If you use Caucasian chamomile as a raw material, you will need about 300 g of dried flowers, which must first be crushed, then poured with a small amount of water, left for a couple of hours and diluted with another 10 liters. Then immediately spray the viburnum.
  • Infusion of black henbane. To prepare an infusion of henbane, it is necessary to make preliminary preparations: we will need to either dry 0.5 kg of rosette leaves and roots (we use a plant no older than one year), or 1 kg of the above-ground part of henbane (two-year-old). Fill the dried plant with 10 liters of water and leave for 13 hours. Immediately before spraying the viburnum, add 5 g of laundry soap to the prepared infusion.

When using chemicals, do not forget to wear a protective suit for yourself.

Chemicals

Products of artificial origin are used much less frequently in the fight against aphids, since they have a negative impact on humans and their environment. These agents can be divided into several categories: contact, intestinal and systemic action.

  • Drugs belonging to the first type penetrate the subcutaneous layer of the insect and kill it. The most popular drugs are the following: Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.
  • Drugs belonging to the second type penetrate the insect’s digestive tract and poison it or paralyze it, which subsequently leads to its death. Such drugs are rarely produced in their pure form; most often they are combined with drugs of the first type. The most popular: Aktellik, Confidor, etc.
  • Drugs belonging to the third type are the most effective, long-acting, but at the same time the most dangerous: they penetrate not only into the body of insects, but also into the soil, the plant and even its fruits and remain there for several weeks. The most effective drugs of this type include the following: Tanrek, Komandor, Biotlin, etc.

Birds and insects

Small birds cope well with black aphids. Thus, titmice, warblers, linnets, wrens and others feed the pest to their chicks. To attract these birds to your garden, build small feeders, birdhouses, arrange small ponds, or place containers of water in the area.

Also, some types of insects are excellent protectors against black aphids, such as ladybugs (especially their larvae), lacewings, ground beetles, and bedbugs (predators).


Ladybugs will help you destroy aphids. Attention. The black aphid's faithful allies are black ants, which feed on its sweet secretions and carefully guard it. To drive away ants, it is necessary to destroy their anthill: boiling water, which must be poured over the ant “house”, or slaked lime, which must be sprinkled with it, is suitable for this purpose.

garden plants

Oddly enough, they can also become an excellent weapon in the fight against black aphids. Some of them can be used as bait because they attract with their smell, others as a repeller. So, nasturtium, mallow, beans, etc. usually planted at some distance from viburnum to distract aphids. But it is advisable to plant fragrant herbs, garlic, onions, mint, coriander, etc. directly next to the bush in order to discourage aphids from “visiting” the shrub plant you planted.

Our material has come to an end. We looked at a wide variety of ways to combat aphids, both biological and chemical in origin. Be sure to use at least a few of them, and you can protect your viburnum. Good luck!

Fighting aphids: video

Aphids on viburnum: photo

dachadizain.ru

How and with what to treat viburnum against aphids

Aphids on viburnum Insecticides for insect pests Folk remedies for aphids Fighting aphids

How to deal with aphids on viburnum, many gardeners and gardeners wonder. The plant attracts pests, creates a favorable environment for the development of their larvae, and promotes the spread of insects throughout the land. Protecting viburnum and preventing the spread of aphids is the responsibility of every gardener.

Viburnum Pests

The most common pest of viburnum is the black aphid. The insect spends its entire life on the bush. Adults lay eggs on the bark near the buds in late August and early September. They will have to spend the winter in this state.

In May, winged individuals appear. These are sexually mature females and males ready for fertilization. After the mating process, the aphid spreads to other trees and lays eggs that are destined to overwinter. In spring the cycle repeats. Black aphids on viburnum are a real disaster for the planting and surrounding plants. It is necessary to begin the fight early in the spring, even before the first leaves bloom.

On a note!

The pest has the ability to migrate to other plants, but lives exclusively on viburnum. During the entire growing season of the shrub, several generations of insects develop.

Professional products

If the viburnum is attacked by aphids, you can fight it with professional chemical preparations based on insecticides. The active components of the product block nerve impulses, causing paralysis and early death. The minimum dose of poison is enough to cause death.

The advantages of this method of control are high efficiency, quick results, preservation of properties for up to 20 days. The insecticidal agent destroys adults and larvae of all ages. Insecticides for insect pests The drug is sold in the form of a concentrate. Before use, you should prepare a solution by diluting it in a certain amount of water. Usually 10 l. While working, you must wear rubber gloves and carry out the procedure in the morning and evening in dry, windless weather.

The most effective means:

  • Aktellik;
  • Karbofos;
  • Prestige;
  • Aktara;
  • Fufanon;
  • Decis;
  • Inta-Vira.

Which drug to use is an individual decision. All of them act immediately, mass death of aphids is observed within a week, and retain their properties for up to 20 days.

Folk recipes

The fight against aphids on viburnum is carried out using all known methods. Folk remedies are very diverse and unique, making it possible to do without chemicals.

  • In order to save the viburnum and thoroughly overcome black aphids, it is necessary to cut out the shoots that are located at the roots in late autumn. It is in this place that the aphid lays eggs and leaves them to overwinter. In the spring, when the bush begins to bloom, pour hot water onto the soil at the root.
  • Natural enemies of insects - ladybugs, lacewing larvae, and hoverflies - can destroy aphids.
  • You can spray viburnum with a solution of onion peels. Pests cannot stand this smell and try to hide from it quickly. 200 g of husk is combined with 500 g of wood ash, 200 g of tobacco powder. Pour in 10 liters of water. Leave to infuse for 5 days. Before use, add laundry soap and filter the finished product. It is necessary to spray viburnum in May even before the first leaves bloom, or during the flowering period. Repeat the procedure every week until the pests disappear.
  • Wood ash, spices - cinnamon, red and black pepper, and soap solution are added to the water. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle or spray bottle. The first time you need to spray the viburnum is in the spring, then this should be done every month with a break of 7-14 days.
  • You can get rid of aphids with a strong tincture of garlic, tobacco, and pine needles. They can be used together or separately. 200 g of raw materials are poured into 1 liter of water and boiled for half an hour. Cover with a lid and leave for 5 days. Strain the finished preparation and add soap. Spraying is carried out.
  • Grind potato tops, tomato tops or marigolds. Pour 10 liters of water and boil for half an hour. Leave for at least a day. Viburnum is sprayed every 3 days during active control. For prevention, once every 2 weeks. It is allowed to prepare the product in reserve. The longer it sits, the greater the concentration of active components.

On a note!

Aphids on viburnum buldenezh are exterminated by the same means. This is an ornamental bush 3 m high with beautiful buds of white flowers that adorn the bush in May.

The list of folk remedies for aphids can be continued endlessly. Gardeners share their methods of struggle.

Reviews

Spread a thick layer of wood ash under the bush and dig up the ground. This should be done in late autumn or early spring, as soon as the ground allows it. Ash poisons the plant sap. The leaves become tasteless and life-threatening to aphids. Such a remedy will not harm Kalina. Additionally, spray every week during the growing season with a soap solution and soda.

Oleg, Moscow

We have several effective recipes for processing viburnum. Spray the bush with whey. Aphids cannot tolerate sour taste and gradually disappear. We also spray with Coca-Cola. I didn’t try to figure out why it works, but it definitely helps. The most effective remedy that helps with severe aphid infestation of a tree is a mixture of ash, black pepper, twisted garlic, onions, and soap. The ratio of ingredients does not play a special role. Two treatments with an interval of 3 days are enough to completely destroy aphids.

Maxim, St. Petersburg

We treat viburnum with tincture of tobacco, wormwood, add ash and soap. In early spring, we water the bush at the very roots with hot water. The aphids don't bother me, the harvest is good.

Anna, Voronezh

Before choosing an effective remedy, it is necessary to assess the degree of damage to the viburnum, the time of the growing season, and the safety for yourself and the plant. At the same time, you should fight ants, since they are the main distributors of black aphids on the garden plot.

apest.ru

How to get rid of aphids and other viburnum pests

Viburnum is known to everyone as a shrub that gives us berries that have medicinal properties. But viburnum is sometimes overcome by pests and diseases. They cause her a lot of trouble: they eat and damage leaves and flowers, adversely affecting the amount of harvest.

Viburnum pests and ways to combat them

Viburnum leaf beetle

Leaf beetles can completely destroy planted viburnum bushes, and the fight against these pests is very difficult. Many people have most likely experienced this, so we will tell you about an effective method of combating leaf beetles.

In early spring, dark gray larvae with a black head hatch. They settle on the underside of the leaf, and it is very difficult to shake them off, because they dig into it tightly. These larvae are very voracious. In a matter of days, they can gnaw most of the leaves down to the veins. Then they burrow into the soil and after a while crawl out as yellow-brown, half-centimeter-long beetles. Now they settle on the upper side of the foliage and continue to diligently absorb them. By autumn, the viburnum, affected by leaf beetles, stands almost completely bare. Such a plant is not ready for winter and may simply freeze.

Females gnaw through the bark two millimeters deep and can even catch wood. Up to 25 light yellow eggs are laid in the hole. Afterwards, the female seals the nest with bodily secretions, masking it with the color of the bark. But masonry can be distinguished by their convex shape. Some of them organize nests in the petioles of large racemes. As a result, the yield drops sharply. By autumn, the beetles hibernate under a viburnum bush.

There is one fairly simple way to protect viburnum from further harmful effects of leaf beetles. During the mass appearance of beetles in mid-summer, they need to be shaken off early in the morning, at the moments of their least activity, from the foliage onto plastic film. Afterwards, put them in a bucket of water and pour them away. Try to carry out this operation before the start of the laying period.

Let's also name proven folk remedies for pest control in viburnum. At the beginning of spring, when the branches of the viburnum have not yet overgrown with young leaves, you can cut off the tops of the shoots, where clutches of eggs are visible. The cut pieces must be burned immediately. If everything is carefully checked and eliminated, then next year new beetles will not appear.

Important! Don't be late with pruning. It needs to be done before the first leaves appear. This method is absolutely harmless to viburnum bushes, and anyone can use it. These viburnum pests are not resistant to Karbofos. Its ten percent solution should be sprayed on the bushes before they bloom. During the growing season, the plant should be treated with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops.

Viburnum leaf roller

This pest looks like a blue-gray or greenish-olive caterpillar with yellowish sides and covered with light hairs. Its head is dark brown. Caterpillars that hatch in the spring devour the buds just as leaves begin to emerge. They entangle them in webs and knock them into lumps. By mid-summer, the leaf roller begins a period of pupation in its feeding areas. In large quantities, this pest can almost completely eat up the viburnum, which has a detrimental effect on the future harvest.

The fight against leaf rollers comes down to simply collecting caterpillar nests and then burning them. Before the buds open, the viburnum needs to be treated with Nitrafen paste. The 60% mixture comes out of a bucket of water with 250 grams of the substance added to it. During the period from bud break to the appearance of buds, the shrub must be treated with a 10% solution of Karbofos.

Did you know? Since ancient times, the Slavs have seen viburnum as a symbol of youth, beauty and girlish tenderness. Because it blooms with white flowers, it was called a wedding tree.

Viburnum and honeysuckle gall midges

These pests, unlike the previous ones, prefer to “feast” on the flowers of the plant. The larvae of the viburnum gall midge are white, and the honeysuckle is red. They overwinter in the top layer of soil, wrapped in cocoons made of cobwebs. Adult gall midges are active when the buds are first exposed. Females lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae also develop there. As a result, the buds become deformed, increase in size, turn red and swell. The corolla becomes thicker, the pistil and stamens are inhibited in development, and the flowers do not open. Gall midges give only one offspring.

Measures to combat these pests include loosening the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before and after flowering, viburnum should be sprayed with a solution of “Karbofos” in a 10% ratio.

Green lobed moth

This pest is a yellow-green caterpillar with a brown line along the body and similar colored spots. It only harms flowers by gnawing out their ovaries. To get rid of the lobed moth, viburnum is sprayed with a 10% solution of Karbofos.

Honeysuckle spiny sawfly

The larva of this pest has an olive body with two rows of white transverse spines. The back is painted in burgundy or a mesh pattern. The sides of the sawfly larva are light gray, and the head is yellow. They overwinter in the upper soil layers and pupate in the spring. Adults appear during the leaf bloom period and can gnaw the viburnum bare.

The fight against sawflies begins in the fall with careful digging of the ground. Next, preparations for viburnum should be administered: a 10% solution of “Karbofos” and wormwood decoction, which is used to spray the viburnum before and after flowering.

Black viburnum aphid

Adult aphids on viburnum lay their eggs on the bark near the buds. This is where the future larvae overwinter. Once born, they make their way to the leaves and suck out all the nutrients from them. As a result, the leaves begin to curl and the apical shoots become deformed. In early summer, pests with wings appear and colonize new plants. In August-September the cycle closes - female black aphids produce another offspring that will overwinter.

This pest is able to migrate, but lives exclusively on viburnum. Hordes of black aphids with special efforts damage young bushes. The black viburnum aphid can migrate, but lives only on viburnum. It damages young bushes with particular cruelty. During the growing season of viburnum, aphids develop several generations.

Beginning gardeners often wonder how to get rid of aphids on viburnum. To overcome the black viburnum aphid, you need to cut out and destroy the shoots that are common at the roots. There the pests lay eggs before wintering. To kill aphids, you can release beneficial insects that feed on them. These can be hover flies and lacewing larvae, ladybugs.

Before the buds open, treat the shoots with Nitrafen paste at a concentration of 60%. Herbal preparations help get rid of aphids well: infusion of potato tops, pepper tincture or a solution of laundry soap.

Did you know? Viburnum is a shrub that is often confused with a tree, because its height can reach two meters.

Chekhlik moth

The larch cap moth is a tiny butterfly with a wingspan of no more than 10 mm. Its gray body is covered with shiny scales. Moth larvae are no more than half a centimeter in size and are orange-brown in color. The caterpillar makes a shelter for itself in the form of a cover according to the size of the body and overwinters there. In the spring it feeds on viburnum leaves, pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July, which lays a couple of eggs. In summer, the eggs hatch into caterpillars.

The following spring treatment against pests will help in the fight against deciduous cap moths - spraying viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots. In the summer you need to use Fufanon, Actellik, Commander, Iskra and Inta-vir.

Main diseases of viburnum, treatment methods

Various diseases to which scorch is susceptible can overcome it year after year, and the number of them is amazing. The whole difficulty is that it is very difficult to find out the cause of the disease, even with a thorough diagnosis. We can only draw a single general conclusion that the plant has undergone a viral attack when spots or stripes appear on its leaves that differ from its natural color.

Did you know? Viburnum is an excellent honey plant. It produces a lot of nectar.

Powdery mildew

Viburnum leaves are rarely affected by this disease. This type of fungus affects viburnum only in the summer, when it is rainy and cool. Only at a time when conditions for pore maturation arise. To remove the unpleasant disease, the following preparations for viburnum should be administered: “Topaz”, “Strobe” or a copper-soap solution. Wood ash, which has been cleared of coal particles, also helps in this case. Three kilograms of ash should be poured into a bucket of hot water and left for two days. Viburnum that is sick with powdery mildew should be treated twice a month.

Leaf spotting

Gray spots of various shapes with a brown or purple border appear on viburnum leaves. On the underside of the leaf, the spots are olive-gray in color. By September, dark dotted fruiting bodies of the fungus begin to form on the dead tissue. Then the spots crack, dry, and the middle falls out.

Dealing with spotting is quite simple. It is necessary to remove all affected leaves from the bush. During the budding period, it is necessary to spray the viburnum with Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.

Did you know? Viburnum is a health worker among plants, as it produces a large amount of phytoncides that resist harmful organisms.

Gray and fruit rot

Gray rot affects viburnum during periods of cold and rainy weather. Especially in the summer. The leaves first acquire large brown spots that spread over the surface. They quickly increase in size, dry out and crack. Spores from infected leaves fall onto healthy ones. Berries affected by gray rot become brown and dry out. The fungus eats right through them. A smoky gray coating of spores can be seen on the surface. To get rid of the disease, you need to collect all the leaves that have fallen in the fall. If viburnum is severely affected by this disease, then it should be sprayed with Vectra during the growing season.

Fruit rot affects young shoots of the plant. They dry up along with flowers, leaves and berries. With the onset of summer, the berries that are affected by the disease become covered with dense pads, then mummify and turn black.

You can cope with fruit rot by removing mummified berries with the onset of autumn. You also need to spray the bushes with copper oxychloride before and after the viburnum flowering period.

Yellowing and mosaic leaves

Mosaic diseases are a group of viral diseases, which are characterized by variegated colors of the affected organs with alternating spots of different sizes and shapes. The affected areas turn green or white of varying intensity. The leaf blade becomes deformed and the plant begins to lag in growth. Infection with mosaic can occur through seeds, the sap of diseased plants when picking seedlings, through pinching, or when infected plants come into contact with healthy ones. Mechanical carriers of the virus are aphids, bedbugs, mites, soil nematodes. Viruses penetrate plants through damaged tissue and persist in soil, plant debris and seeds.

To date, there are no known methods to combat this disease that would cope with it forever. The only thing that has been achieved is to find preventative agents and develop varieties that are resistant to leaf mosaic. If the level of infection has not reached a critical point, then diseased areas can be cut out. If the viburnum suffers irreversible consequences, then the bush needs to be dug up and burned.

Signs of infection are primarily noticeable on young growing shoots. They begin to show light areas along the veins, yellow rings and star-shaped spots. Further, the spots turn white, and with their further merging, the leaf begins to turn yellow. Mosaic disease progresses faster at temperatures of 30 degrees, when the plant is heavily thickened.

Resistance to the disease decreases with sudden temperature changes, temperatures higher than 30 degrees and very dense placement of plants. Here you need to observe a certain thermal regime. Often the disease is transmitted by insect pests, so you need to carefully monitor their appearance and destroy them in a timely manner. Having discovered a disease, you need to take preventive measures: isolate the viburnum and disinfect equipment. If the plant dies, it must be dug up and destroyed along with the surrounding soil. It is very difficult to accurately determine a specific disease of viburnum. Important! It is impossible to fight viburnum viral infections. We must try to prevent the disease by destroying the vectors of infection. If you buy viburnum from hand, then it may already be infected with mosaic leaves through damaged roots and stems. All diseased parts must be cut out and destroyed. After this, you need to wash and disinfect your hands well. Only healthy plants need to be cut. When it is hot and dry, the plant needs more abundant watering and shading.

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agronomu.com

This summer season, all summer residents in our region are complaining about aphid attacks. It affects literally all fruit and berry plantings: currants, bird cherry, plum. The black aphid was especially cruel in our summer cottage: it literally clung to the branches, leaves and flowers of the viburnum, preventing it from growing or blooming. Having arrived at the dacha one day and seeing an aphid attack, we decided: we urgently needed to spray the aphids on the viburnum. Since folk remedies take a long time to prepare, and their effect is not so pronounced, we decided to use powerful artillery: chemistry.

aphids on viburnum: photo

In some places there are no aphids, in some places there are only pitiful heaps. But the damage from their attack is obvious: the leaves are dry and curled. The branches are bare. The flowers are hatching, but it is not yet clear whether to expect berries this year or not. Of course, aphids on viburnum need to be treated immediately, as quickly as possible. It is best to visit the dacha more often, otherwise pests can overpower the unfortunate plants in an instant. And no one except you and me will protect them.

Chemicals for aphids on viburnum

Baba Tanya’s favorite insecticide, which she uses to treat all plants against insects, is “Intavir” (analogous to “Inta-Ts-M”). That's what they used.

Baba Lyusya uses another chemical to combat aphids and other pests: Tan-rek.

In general, in modern stores the range of insecticides is quite wide. And for convenient spraying, we always use the Zhuk garden sprayer. As an alternative, you can spray chemical solutions from a spray bottle or even from a broom. This is not so convenient, but as an emergency measure it will do

How to treat aphids on viburnum: folk remedies

Not all summer residents like to use chemicals on their own plots. Categorically. No problem. Many folk remedies have been invented to combat aphids on viburnum. The question is how effective they are. Let's be honest: we didn't check it. But if you have positive experience in using folk remedies against aphids, we will be glad if you share it in the comments below 😉

So, these are the folk remedies that gardeners on the forums have called effective in the fight against black aphids on viburnum:

  • Treatment with a soap solution, which can be prepared from cheap special laundry detergent such as “Lotus” or laundry soap. It is enough to spray 1 bucket of soap solution on the plant 1-2 times a week. And then wash off the remaining dead aphids with a strong stream of water.
  • Treatment in dry weather with the biological preparation “Fitoverm” 2 times, after 2 weeks. The biological preparations Lepidotsid or Bitoxibacillin, Iskra-bio act similarly against aphids on viburnum. It makes sense to use them at the initial stage of infestation of viburnum with pests.
  • Treatment with saline solution (it should be cool when sprayed). Dosage not specified.
  • Ammonia solution: 1 tbsp. spoon on a bucket of water. Re-treatment is required after 2 weeks.
  • Horseradish infusion. Chop the leaves and roots, put them in a bucket and fill them halfway with water. Let it brew for 3-4 hours and spray the viburnum bush.
  • Soda solution: Take 1 tbsp. spoon of soda ash and dissolve in 1 liter of water. Add 1/4 bar of laundry soap (planed).
  • Ash infusion: 200-300 g of wood ash is poured with hot boiling water and allowed to brew. The cooled solution is filtered and soap is added.

An interesting way to fight ants and aphids (they are closely related) was described on one of the forums:

  • While the tree is young, a car tire cut in half lengthwise is threaded through it. There will be a circular groove around the tree. It is filled with water, thus creating an insurmountable barrier for the ants. Ants do not swim and are afraid of water, so they will not climb such a tree. It is proposed to construct a concrete ditch 15 cm deep around mature trees.
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