How to treat viburnum during flowering. How to treat viburnum from pests and aphids? Gray and fruit rot

To obtain layering, in the spring, annual shoots of viburnum are bent to the ground and radially laid out in shallow grooves, but the top of the shoot remains on the surface. The spread out shoots are pinned with 2-3 hooks and sprinkled with loose soil or humus. For better root formation, the bark above the backfill area is tied with wire or cut. By autumn, roots develop on each horizontal layer, and young plants form from the buds, which are cut off with pruning shears and transplanted to a permanent place.

In spring or autumn, a young viburnum bush is dug up, then it is carefully divided into 2 - 3 parts, so that at least 2 remain on each plant - 3 buds renewal. This is how viburnum is propagated dividing the bush.

For reproduction by seed method Large viburnum seeds are separated from the pulp before sowing. Then they are washed in water and dried in a ventilated area. Viburnum seeds can be sown in the fall. When sowing freshly harvested seeds into the ground in the fall, viburnum shoots appear only after a year. To speed up their germination, pre-sowing treatment is recommended. - cold stratification. To do this, the seeds of common viburnum and Sargent viburnum are placed in damp sand and kept at a temperature of +4+5 0 C for 5 - 6 months. For Viburnum Bureinskaya, 3-4 months of stratification is enough.

You can carry out warm-cold stratification of viburnum seeds. To do this, seeds immediately after harvesting the fruits (in September-October) are placed in boxes with damp sand and stored at a temperature of +20+28°C for 2 months, and then transferred until spring to a colder room with a temperature range from 0 to + 5°C. When sowing, the seeds are deepened into the substrate by 3-4 cm. In the spring, friendly shoots appear, and the seedlings dive into the garden bed. Viburnum seed germination lasts up to 2 years.

Pests and diseases of viburnum

Viburnum vulgaris suffers greatly from viburnum leaf beetle, which can damage the leaves so severely that only the veins remain. In May - In June, the larva eats away the plant tissue, and the adult leaf beetle lays eggs under the bark. Even flowers and fruits are damaged by this pest. From - As a result, not only the decorative qualities of the shrubs sharply deteriorate, but also the yield decreases. To protect viburnum from the leaf beetle, the bushes should be treated with an infusion or decoction of plants with a strong odor (garlic, hot pepper, yarrow, wormwood, nightshade, etc.).

Viburnum berries contain a large amount of vitamin C, as well as pectins and tannins. A decoction of berries helps cope with sore throat, tonsillitis, bronchitis and pneumonia. Viburnum bark also has useful substances: from its decoction you can prepare a hemostatic and antispasmodic agent, as well as a mouth rinse for periodontal disease. However, insect pests can undermine the health of the tree, or even destroy it completely. Knowing what viburnum pests exist and measures to combat them, you can take timely measures and save the tree.

The most common pests

Viburnum has many admirers not only among people, but also among insects. However, the preferences of the latter are destructive for her. The following are the pests that can cause the greatest harm to viburnum, as well as how to get rid of them and save the plant.

Black aphid on viburnum, how to fight

These small bugs are easy to notice: they are brown, almost black in color (less often crimson-brown) and accumulate in large quantities on the stems of the plant. They usually lay eggs in the bark of the viburnum tree, as well as on the branches. In the spring, the larvae hatch, begin to suck out the juices and eat the young leaves of the plant. Over time, they dry and curl, and the shoots change shape.

In general, aphids attack three times a year, starting in May. During this month it is necessary to start treating the plant with insecticides. Then the aphid larvae grow and turn into flying insects that are able to fly to neighboring plants. In August, aphids begin laying eggs, which can successfully overwinter, despite the frost.

Black aphid on viburnum

Measures to combat viburnum aphids include the destruction of root shoots, where the largest number of eggs are laid. How can you treat viburnum against aphids? The plant should be sprayed with chemicals:

  • Arrivo,
  • Fury,
  • Fufan or Fufanon,
  • Karbafos.

Or biological:

  • Fitoverm,
  • Akarin or Agravertin CE,
  • Aversectin,
  • Intavir.

It is also a good idea to treat the plant with a solution of laundry or tar soap.

Important! It is better to do the first treatment before the buds open, this will help reduce the number of overwintered eggs.

What to do if the use of chemicals in a given location is not possible? Folk remedies will help. For spraying, you can use decoctions prepared from other plants. Potato tops (1.2 kg of green per 10 liters of water), pepper infusion (1 kg of capsicum per 10 liters), celandine (3-4 kg of fresh celandine per 10 liters) are suitable for this.

It will also be useful to purchase or attract beneficial insects that destroy aphids on viburnum. This is a ladybug, a hoverfly or a goldmine larva. The insects will eat the pests, but the viburnum will not be touched.

Hoverfly

Green lobed moth

The caterpillar has a yellow-green color with a dark red stripe along the body, the same dots and spots. Prefers to eat exclusively flowers and gnaw out flower ovaries. Particularly active between May and July. Over the summer, two generations of butterflies may appear. The moth is most often found on the ornamental shrub Buldenezh. In addition to viburnum, it can also harm other garden shrubs, such as lilac and buckthorn.

On a note! Pest control must be carried out twice: in the spring, before the viburnum begins to bloom and after it has finished. 10% Karbofos is suitable for processing.

Viburnum leaf beetle

The viburnum leaf beetle is a large brown beetle. Prefers to hide a clutch of eggs in young shoots of viburnum. The larvae have a black head and a dirty gray body. Some people confuse the leaf beetle caterpillar with a worm. The larvae emerge from the eggs at the end of spring and begin to eat young leaves. You can notice that the leaf beetle caterpillars on the viburnum have eaten all the leaves. They are able to completely eat a leaf, leaving only a skeleton mesh instead. You can notice them on the back of the sheet: the caterpillars hold firmly and are not so easy to shake off.

Note: This pest has a truly brutal appetite; in a few days the larvae are capable of destroying a large number of viburnum branches.

At the beginning of summer, the larvae hide underground and turn into beetles. They have a yellow-brown color. The beetles not only eat viburnum leaves, but gnaw holes in them. In this case, you can notice that the viburnum leaves have holes. Now leaf beetles live on the upper part of the leaf. After the leaves they move to inflorescences. their actions can lead to the complete death of the plant and the crop.

Viburnum leaf beetle

Favorable weather for the leaf beetle is rain, damp and cold. Under such conditions, the number of beetles may increase, which will cause considerable harm to the viburnum.

To combat this beetle, you need to remove dried and damaged shoots in the fall, as well as leaves with larvae. Treat the plant in the spring, when the leaves have not yet blossomed, and in August. The drug Intavir is suitable for this: you need to spray the plant twice with an interval of 7-10 days. During the growing season, it is recommended to spray viburnum with an infusion of hot pepper (a kilogram of fresh or 0.5 kg of dried crushed pods per bucket of water), an infusion of tomato tops (4 kg of fresh herbs per bucket of water) or a decoction of chamomile (3 kg fresh or 1 kg dried per bucket of water ). It will also be useful to remove in the spring those shoots in which egg laying is visible. The trimmings should be removed away and burned immediately.

Viburnum leaf roller

The larvae of this pest are gray or green caterpillars, which have a yellow tint on the sides. The entire body of the caterpillars is covered with light hairs. They become active in the spring. They actively eat the buds and young leaves of the plant. In addition, they wrap the leaves with cobwebs and knock them into a ball.

Viburnum leaf roller

Leaf roller caterpillars are capable of real wrecking: in a short period of time they can eat huge quantities of leaves and inflorescences, which negatively affects crop yields. To prevent the caterpillars from eating all the viburnum leaves, you need to start fighting them in time.

Note! To destroy the viburnum leaf roller, you need to collect and burn all the caterpillar nests. Then spray the plants with 60% Nitrophen paste (250 g per bucket of water). This must be done before the leaves bloom. Then you need to treat the viburnum with 10% Karbofos.

Viburnum gall midge

To combat this pest, you need to loosen the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before viburnum flowers appear, spray the plant with 10% Karbofos (100 g per bucket of water).

Chekhlik moth

It is a small butterfly (wingspan up to 1 cm). The color is gray, with shiny scales on the body. Moth larvae are orange-brown in color and no larger than 0.5 cm in size. For the winter, the moth makes a shelter for itself and hibernates in it, and in the spring it flies out and feeds on viburnum leaves. It pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July.

Chekhlik moth

Spring treatment of viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots will help cope with moths. Suitable drugs include Fufanon, Actellik, Iskra, Commander and Intavir.

Other pests

Less commonly, you can encounter spider mites, honeysuckle sawflies, moths and moths. To combat them, you need to treat the plant with Karbofos in May, and in August with Fufanon or Iskra.

Folk methods of struggle

Many gardeners prefer not to use chemicals to control pests. And there are many folk methods: in addition to a decoction of the garden plants listed earlier, spraying with a soap solution is recommended. This solution is prepared using laundry soap or tar soap. You just need to dissolve the soap in water, about 100 grams per 1 liter of water, preferably warm.

Note: It is much more convenient and faster to dissolve soap shavings.

This method is absolutely safe for humans. For greater effectiveness, it is recommended to add to the solution:

  • soda,
  • ash,
  • tobacco,
  • tops

Soda-soap solution

The effect of using this product will be noticeable by the end of the day. To prepare, you need to mix soap with water (1/4 or 1/2 of a bar of soap per bucket is enough), then add soda at the rate of 1 tablespoon per liter of water. You will need about 10 tablespoons of soda per bucket. Mix thoroughly and spray the plant thoroughly.

Preparation of soda-soap solution for spraying

Ash solution

Wood ash is highly irritating to the skin of insects, making it excellent for pest control. The soap solution will help fix the ash solution on the leaves.

First you need to sift 300 grams of wood ash, add it to a bucket filled with 10 liters of water and put it on fire. Cook for half an hour. Then cool slightly and add 40 grams of soap.

Advice! There is no need to make this product in advance; it is better to prepare it immediately before use.

Tobacco solution

To prepare, you need to mix 200 grams of dry tobacco leaves with three pods of hot pepper and pour a bucket of water over everything. Insist for a day. Then add 100 grams of laundry soap, 3 tablespoons of wood ash (can be replaced with cinnamon) and mix. This solution can quickly remove pests.

Tops solution

To prepare the solution, you can use potato or tomato tops. It is necessary to chop 3 kg of fresh herbs, add 10 liters of water and leave for at least 6 hours. Then put on the stove, bring to a boil and cook for half an hour. Then cool, add 50 grams of soap and use.

Tomato tops

Using a soap solution to spray viburnum is safe for humans and is accessible to everyone. However, it is not always possible to cope with harmful insects only with the help of folk remedies. Store-bought products are much more effective, but they also cannot destroy all pests the first time. For maximum effectiveness, it is worth using folk remedies in combination with store-bought ones.

Important: Due to the need for chemical treatment, you should not plant viburnum next to the beds; eating such a crop can be dangerous.

Necessary prevention

To prevent viburnum diseases and to detect early signs of pests, you need to regularly inspect the plant. If the leaves begin to turn black, dry out or rot, or holes appear on them, you need to look for the cause and fight it.

For prevention and treatment, it would not be amiss to treat the bushes throughout the season with onion, garlic or tobacco infusion, as well as a soap solution (any of those described earlier). The use of insecticidal plants is ideal for the prevention of viburnum diseases, as well as for pest control. It could be horse sorrel, dandelion, wormwood.

It will not be possible to completely protect the viburnum; pests may attack again, but timely detection and destruction of harmful insects will prevent them from laying eggs.


Viburnum, so named for the color of its berries - fiery red, like hot iron - grows in almost every summer cottage. Unfortunately, in every garden it is also subject to attacks by insects that can deprive the bushes of vitality in a short time. How, how and when to treat viburnum for aphids in order to prevent pests from actively reproducing is a topic of concern to summer residents.

Black aphid

As soon as the first buds on the viburnum bloom, the black (viburnum) aphid occupies the young shoots. Deprived of vital juices, young leaves become deformed and curl. Dark spots of various shapes appear on them, which leads to complete drying and death of young branches. In one season, several generations of aphids appear, and the first is equipped with wings - it has the ability to move from bush to bush, capturing all plants, not just viburnum.

The last generation overwinters at the base of the bush and, at the first signs of the beginning of spring, rushes up the trunks, getting closer to the buds that are beginning to swell. That is why active pest control begins in early spring.

The viburnum aphid causes damage to the entire area, but the main habitat is viburnum bushes. All the main means of struggle are used on them.

There are two main stages in the fight against black aphids.

  1. Creating the most unfavorable conditions for laying eggs of the last, wintering generation. To do this, you have to cut out without regret all the basal shoots, which abound in viburnum bushes. It is optimal to carry out such thinning of the base of bushes in the second half of summer.
  2. Spring treatment of bushes against pests using chemicals or folk remedies.

In the first days of spring, before using any pest control, the trunks of viburnum bushes are cleared of exfoliated old bark - most pests hibernate under it. After all the debris has been removed, the ground under the bush is watered with hot water.

Application of pesticides

The first treatment is carried out as soon as the spring sun warms up. During this period, pests emerge from hibernation and begin moving towards the kidneys. The most effective drugs include:

  • "Aktara";
  • "Decis";
  • "Prestige";
  • "Karbofos";
  • "Fufanon."

Viburnum should be sprayed against pests in dry, windless weather using personal protective equipment.

Good results are obtained by treating viburnum with a Nitrafen solution at the rate of 200 g of product per 10 liters of water. The drug also needs to be sprayed on the homes of ants that carry aphids.

It is permissible to poison pests with chemicals only in early spring, since later application will harm pollinating insects, especially bees.


Folk remedies

The fact that folk remedies are less effective in combating aphids is a fairly common misconception. Their effectiveness is no lower than industrial pesticides if they are prepared and applied according to all the rules. At the same time, solutions prepared according to “grandmother’s” recipes can be used throughout the entire growing season. But it is better not to wait until the pest has firmly established itself on the viburnum, but to spray the affected plants immediately after detecting the pest.

  • Soap solution

Prepared from laundry or green soap - 300 g per bucket of water. The treatment is carried out 2-3 times a week, after washing the bush with water from a hose under moderate pressure. Instead of soap, you can use one of the most inexpensive washing powders.

  • Ash infusion

A glass of ash is brewed with a liter of boiling water and left for a day. Then add 40-50 g of soap or washing powder, bring the volume to 10 liters. Spray viburnum once a week.

  • Ammonia

The solution is prepared from 20 ml of alcohol and a bucket of water. Viburnum is treated against pests twice, less often - three times, the interval between spraying is 2 weeks.

  • Tobacco infusion

250 g of tobacco or shag are infused in 5 liters of water for 2 days. Then filter, add 5 liters of water and treat the bushes.

  • Pharmaceutical chamomile

Take 1 kg of dried flowers in a bucket of hot water and leave for 12 hours. Strain the infusion, add 2 parts water to 1 part infusion. The plants are treated with the prepared solution immediately after mixing.

  • Pyrethrum (Caucasian chamomile)

300 g of crushed dried flowers are poured with a small amount of boiling water, left for 2 hours, filtered, water added to 10 liters and immediately sprayed with viburnum - the herb successfully fights many pests of garden crops.

Dried pyrethrum flowers can be purchased at pharmacies or garden centers under the trade name Persian Powder. The manufacturer indicates recommendations for use on the packaging.

  • Needles

Pine or spruce needles are crushed and steamed with boiling water at the rate of 200 g of dry raw material per liter of water. The infusion is kept tightly sealed for two days, after which the affected bushes are sprayed with it.

  • Henbane black

If there are thickets of this plant nearby, take young rosette leaves (about 200-300 g), pour a bucket of hot water and leave for 13 hours. Before spraying, add 30-50 g of liquid soap to the infusion.

Black henbane is a poisonous plant; be careful when working with it. Leaf celery.

  • To attract small birds (tits, warblers, linnets), feeders, drinking bowls, and nesting houses are equipped for them.
  • If attracting natural enemies of aphids to a site is one of the components of pest control, pesticides are used extremely carefully.

    All means are good in the fight against aphids in the spring. Their competent and timely use will protect a beautiful bush with healthy berries from pests and get a good harvest.

    Decorative viburnum is unpretentious in cultivation, grows quickly and bears fruit more and more abundantly every year. It is indispensable in landscape design, and the benefits of juicy red brushes can hardly be overestimated. There is one difficulty in growing, namely: black aphids. It affects these trees en masse, weakening and depriving them of their attractiveness. Before planting on your site, it is better to find out in advance how to deal with aphids on viburnum.

    Description and signs of damage

    First you need to decide how to recognize a pest? All varieties of aphids have dark-colored individuals. Among the green or yellow ones, dark brown ones sometimes appear. And only viburnum is inhabited mainly by black aphids. This is a small insect, rarely exceeding the size of 3-5 mm. The population contains both flying and non-flying individuals.

    Before the onset of cold weather, ants take the eggs of their nurses for storage. Clutches of aphids survive the winter in tree trunk circles, in the bark of viburnum. The larvae appear with the first warmth and infect young shoots. Leaves, shoots, buds of viburnum - everything is covered with a dense layer of swarming aphids. As a result, the fabrics become deformed, curl, and dry out in places.

    It is impossible not to notice the mass phenomenon. Especially if viburnum grows near housing. The slightest fluctuation in the wind showers them to the ground and upon closer examination it becomes clear what kind of misfortune has struck the viburnum.

    Infestation by aphids causes great harm to the tree. It weakens and loses young shoots. Frequent companions of aphids are fungal, viral and bacterial infections. Then the viburnum loses all its attractiveness and stops growing.

    Fighting methods

    You can fight black aphids on viburnum in different ways:

    • chemical compounds that guarantee a long-term absence of the pest, but at the same time affect other insects, including bees;
    • natural means. They are based on the use of plant materials, which contain alkaloids, bitterness and phytoncides.

    Viburnum attracts aphids with its succulent leaves and shoots. Many products are quickly washed away by precipitation. A single use will most likely not bring results. How to fight aphids on viburnum is up to you, but be prepared for the need for regular treatments. It is important:

    • process viburnum in cloudy weather. Or plan the fight against aphids in the morning/evening;
    • use personal protection;
    • do not eat or smoke during treatment;
    • observe the waiting period. The last spraying should be carried out at least 14 days before picking the berries.

    Chemical means

    There are many drugs available to control aphids. It is best to use system ones. They are absorbed into the tissues of the viburnum and infect insects when they try to suck out the juice.

    Most drugs contain neonicotinoids, others contain organophosphorus compounds or permethrins.

    Everyone knows the possibility of fighting aphids using:

    • Aktellika;
    • Aktars;
    • Fufanon;
    • Karbofos;
    • Decisa;
    • Prestige;
    • Inta-Vira and other means.

    When using the aphid repellent, be sure to follow the instructions, do not exceed the concentration of the solutions, do not store diluted preparations, and discard the packaging.

    Natural herbal preparations

    If you don’t have chemicals at hand, you can try to make do with improvised ones - natural insecticides.

    Among the most effective are infusions for fighting aphids on viburnum:

    • wormwood, yarrow, celandine, tansy, dandelion, lemon peels, hot pepper pods. The raw materials are crushed and steamed with boiling water in a ratio of 1:10. Boil for half an hour. They insist - 1-2 days. After this, the waste raw materials are discarded, and aphids are fought with the resulting infusion. Hot pepper is further diluted 1 to 10.
    • potato and tomato tops, marigolds. They are finely chopped. Pour boiling water into half a bucket of the resulting mass until it is full. Leave for a couple of days. Afterwards, decant and use in the fight against aphids as a concentrate, always with a dilution of 1 to 10 before use;
    • 200 g of garlic, tobacco or pine needles are steamed in 1 liter of boiling water. You can boil it for half an hour. Infuse in an airtight container for 2-5 days. Decant and use for spraying viburnum. Garlic tincture is pre-diluted at the rate of 25 ml per 10 l, and tobacco and pine needles - 1:10.

    To all of the listed plant-based products, add an adhesive - 40-50 g of soap (liquid or laundry). You can use shampoo.

    Timely control of aphids guarantees you the presence of a luxurious viburnum bush under the window. It will decorate the yard in the warm season, and the berries will help you survive the winter. The most important thing is not to miss the moment and protect against aphid invasion.

    The main mushrooms collected are: porcini, obabka, boletus, chanterelles, boletus, moss mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms, boletus, saffron milk caps, honey mushrooms. Other mushrooms are collected depending on the region. And their name (other mushrooms) is legion. As well as mushroom pickers, of whom there are more and more every year. Therefore, there may not be enough for all known mushrooms. And I know for sure that among the little-known there are very worthy representatives. I’ll tell you about little-known, but tasty and healthy mushrooms in this article.

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    Today in pharmacies you can buy many different medications with a general strengthening, tonic effect that are used for colds. Despite this, I always prepare my own nettles and St. John’s wort for the winter, as I consider them indispensable medicinal herbs for the prevention and treatment of colds and many other diseases. Why these plants are valuable, how and when to collect them, dry them, store them and prepare healing infusions, I will tell you in the article.

    Among species of orchids, phalaenopsis are real Spartans. And one of the hardiest species is Phalaenopsis four-scutellum, or Tetraspis. He is content with minimal care, is not capricious at all, and easily adapts. And, unfortunately, it almost completely disappeared from the windowsills. Varietal hybrids with their spectacular flowering are found at every step, but you will have to hunt for each species specimen. But if you love the exotic, then Phalaenopsis tetraspis is worth it.

    Boiled chicken stewed with vegetables is a delicious hot dish that is very easy to prepare from available ingredients. This dish will appeal to both adults and children; it can also be included in a not very strict diet menu, when you need to eat something satisfying, but not fried or fatty. The recipe for stewed boiled chicken can be classified as “healthy recipes”! Legs or thighs are ideal for cooking, but breast fillet will turn out dry, it is better to make cutlets from it.

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    Fragrant, aromatic apricots with soft, velvety skin and pulp that melts in your mouth are loved by adults and children. They make excellent preserves, marmalade, pastilles, dried fruits and juices. It is not surprising that apricot trees are grown in almost every garden in regions with a suitable climate. In this article we will tell you which apricot varieties are most suitable for central Russia. In addition, the material will discuss how to properly care for the plant.

    Puff pastries with sorrel from ready-made yeast-free puff pastry - crispy, rosy, piping hot, ready for your table. You don’t need a lot of sorrel for the filling; you can even mix it with fresh spinach, it will be delicious! Sorrel adds sourness to the traditional puff pastry filling of eggs and onions. Take the puff pastry out of the freezer 30 minutes before cooking and leave it at room temperature until it thaws a little and becomes pliable.

    Among the huge community of indoor representatives of the Araceae family, syngonium is the only plant that cannot boast of an increase in popularity in the last decade. Everyone seemed to have forgotten about this vine. Perhaps due to the rather capricious nature of syngoniums or their similarity to many large-leaved indoor plants. But not a single indoor vine can boast of such variability. This is one of the most modest vines, but non-standard.

    Apricot pie made from delicate shortcrust pastry with curd filling turns out very similar to traditional apricot cheesecake: a thin layer of crumbly shortcrust pastry, moderately sweet, then a layer of apricots covered with the most delicate curd filling. To prepare this pie you will need something called intermediate baking. That is, first we bake a shortbread crust, which we then fill with fruits and cottage cheese, then we bake the pie until ready for some more time.

    Once upon a time, these flowers were probably exotic novelties and aroused the delight of the public. But over time, bright annuals, widespread in urban landscaping and private gardens, became familiar. Today, not everyone wants to allocate space in the garden for marigolds, zinnias and their familiar cousins. In this article, I invite readers to get acquainted with new unusual varieties of annuals that are familiar to us, which will allow us to look at “banal” plants in a new way.

    Spicy peach jam with cinnamon, star anise and cloves. The jam is very thick, aromatic, with transparent pieces of fruit. You will have to tinker a little with processing - you definitely need to peel the skin off the peaches, but the jam is prepared quite quickly. To harvest for the winter, choose ripe peaches without signs of spoilage or visible damage. The peel can be peeled off with a regular vegetable scraper or, as in this recipe, you can scald the fruit with boiling water. Any variety of peaches will do.

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