How to make wooden floors. DIY wooden floor (97 photos): instructions and tips for leveling, repairing and creating new floors

Natural wood floors are considered to be the most environmentally friendly. But many now refuse such coverage due to the fact that supposedly this material is outdated and uninteresting. But a plank floor may well outperform any floor covering, especially in terms of comfort. It is warm, reliable, is not a source of harmful substances and can be very beautiful if made according to all the rules.

Wood is one of the oldest building materials. Previously, everything that was possible was made from it - they built houses, fences, furniture, and the interior decoration of the premises was carried out mainly with natural wood. At the same time, now such material is considered one of the most expensive and speaks of the significant status of a person. Even despite the fact that a lot of synthetic materials have appeared on sale, which are distinguished by ease of installation and beauty, the tree does not lose its position.

Natural wood floors are still one of the most popular and in demand. The reason for this is the undeniable advantages of this material:

But it is also worth talking about the shortcomings of plank floors, which, fortunately, are very few. Cons of using a wooden floor from planks:

Despite a fairly large number of disadvantages, plank floors are still a very good floor covering, and with proper installation, it is possible to cope with most of the disadvantages of use.

Plank floor installation

The layout of a wooden floor made of boards is quite simple and includes only a few basic elements. These are wooden logs and the boardwalk itself. Also, when installing the floor, additional materials can be used - heat and waterproofing, which are laid directly under the boards.

Logs are long bars (usually those made of solid wood are used, or glued bars are allowed).

On a note! Previously, logs were made from large hewn logs, but now this option is unacceptable due to the high price.

The logs themselves are laid on the ceiling, which can be either made of a beam of a larger section or a concrete slab. Also, logs can be installed on bricks if the base for the floor is soil. In the private sector, a metal ceiling can serve as the basis.

The creation of a plank floor is completed by laying or applying a finish coating. It can be varnish, paint, and if the floors are laid as a rough base, then a number of other types of floor coverings.

Advice! If the plank floors are made of high-quality and beautiful wood color, then it is better to cover them with a transparent varnish, preserving the natural shade, and leave it as a floor finish.

Types of boards and their choice

Floor boards are usually made of larch or pine - these are the most affordable, but at the same time high-quality and reliable types of wood. Sometimes there are floors made of ash, oak, maple, alder.

On a note! Boards made from aspen or alder are considered the most environmentally friendly and are recommended for use by home owners who take care of their health.

If varnish becomes the finishing layer, then the choice should be made in favor of light wood species with a pronounced beautiful pattern. Oak planks, as well as walnut or mahogany, will look best as a floor. Among the options listed, oak wood is the cheapest.

Table. Floor boards depending on the wood used.

Board type	Description and characteristics
	Strength on the Brinell scale - 2.5. The texture of the birch is very beautiful and pleasant, and if it is additionally toned, the floor will turn out to be very beautiful. Price for 1 sq.m. is approximately 660 rubles.
	Such a board is not inclined to absorb moisture, and therefore can be used where the humidity index is quite high, that is, even in a sauna or bath. Larch almost does not rot, and its Brinell strength is 3.1 - it is not even necessary to varnish the material. The color of this wood is very beautiful, noble. Cost of 1 sq.m. boards can vary from 600 to 1620 rubles.
	Brinell strength is 4 and 3.7 - the material is very durable. Resistance to humidity is moderate, but lower than that of larch. Such floors look very noble and rich. The cost of this material is high - from 1800 to 4400 rubles / sq. m.
floor boards There are several types of floor boards, the main ones are: straight comb board; grooved; quarter. The thickness of the boards when choosing a material is often determined by the distance between the lags, and vice versa - the distance between the lags may depend on what thickness of the boards are used. Table. The ratio of the distance between the lags and the thickness of the boards. To create a finishing floor covering, it is recommended to use boards with a tongue-and-groove connection type. The most commonly used material is 28 mm thick - this is the most common board size. If the floors will experience a significant load, then it is recommended to use boards with a thickness of at least 36 mm. On average, the width of this building material varies from 68 to 138 mm. Plank floor mounting options Plank floors can be installed in different ways. Basically, three methods are used - installation of a wooden floor on ordinary logs or on adjustable ones, as well as installation using clamps. Basics of floor installation on ordinary logs In this case, the installation begins with the laying of wooden bars with dimensions usually 5x5 or 4x6 cm on the concrete floor. The logs must be laid so as to be on the same level - for this it is most convenient to use the building laser level. Also, a soundproof gasket is often placed under the bars. The elements are fastened with anchors. The installation of the log is made from walls oriented perpendicular to the windows, and then the boards are laid perpendicular to the logs. During the laying of boards, their second row is mounted with a slight offset relative to the first (chess order). Then the floors will look better and more interesting. A small gap of about 1 mm is allowed between adjacent boards. The boards are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. In this case, the latter are driven at an angle of 45 degrees into the end of the board. Important! When installing boards near the walls, it is necessary to leave a small gap - about 1 cm. It is necessary so that the floors do not deform during expansion when exposed to moisture or temperature. The basics of installing a wooden floor on adjustable joists This method of installing plank floors is used if the subfloor is uneven, with large height differences, which complicates the laying of any floor covering. It is the arrangement in this case of adjustable logs that allows you to speed up the installation process and place some communications under the boards. At the same time, the load on the floors, in contrast to the case when it is mounted, is minimal, and the thermal insulation properties of the floors increase significantly. To create such floors, you will have to drill holes in the logs in increments of about 40 cm, and screw special metal racks into them. The logs themselves are laid in increments of about 50 cm, leveled and fixed with dowels passing through the racks. Before laying the board, the excess racks are cut off. Prices for adjustable floor joists adjustable lags Basics of floor installation using clamps Clamps are special devices that allow you to connect boards to each other. These can be building brackets, wedge clamps, movable brackets and clamp brackets. Also, for this method, it will be necessary to make wooden wedges with an inclination of the sides of about 15-20 degrees. The wedges will be used as workers and spacers. Clamps for rallying floor boards: a - construction bracket, b - clamp-clamp, c - wedge clamp with a movable bracket; 1 - wedge, 2 - bracket, 3 - lag, 4 - wedge clamp, 5 - spur, 6 - movable stop The order of work is as follows: the first board is fixed, and another 10-15 pieces are placed next to it. When installing the last board, two clamps are installed so that wedges fit between them and the boards. The latter are driven in with a hammer so that all the boards are tightly, without gaps, docked with each other. After that, they are fixed with nails. The remaining gap at the wall will be hidden by the plinth. Material selection and base preparation The key to a beautiful and high-quality floor is the use of good material. Floor boards should not have various defects - for example, knots, cracks, etc. Also, if the floor is varnished and serves as a finish, it is important to pay attention to the beauty of the wood texture. For floor installation, in addition to boards, you may need the following tools and materials: bars for lag; insulation; material for waterproofing; fasteners - nails or screws; electric jigsaw with canvases for wood; hammer; plinth; finish coating; drill; building level (preference should be given to the longest option); wood preservative. The nuances of installing a wooden floor It is not enough to know the technology of arranging the floor from the boards in the apartment. It is also recommended to listen to the advice of experienced craftsmen and know the nuances of such work. SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings. Download file (click on the link to open the PDF file in a new window). Do-it-yourself wooden floor Consider the process of creating a floor from boards in the case when soil acts as a base. Step 1. The first step is to dismantle the old floor covering, if any. At the same time, completely old boards and logs are removed. Step 2 If the room is located on the ground floor of a private house, then the sand cushion is also removed to a depth of approximately 30 cm. Step 3 Then the installation of metal frames for future pile-columns is carried out. This will raise the beams if the groundwater is close to the surface. To do this, recesses are created in the ground, into which metal bases are then dug. All columns are installed at the same level. Step 4 Rectangular shapes are made from plastic lining, which are put on metal bases. Then they are poured with liquid concrete. After drying, the mold is removed from the lining. Step 5 From metal 6 mm thick, small plates are cut, which are installed on the top of the concrete columns. Beams will be attached to the plates. A hole 14 mm wide is made in the middle of each plate. Step 6 A layer of polyethylene film for waterproofing is laid on the ground. You can fix the film on the columns using ordinary adhesive tape. Step 7 Metal plates are covered with paint, which will protect them from moisture. Step 8 With the help of metal washers-cones and a powerful bolt and nut, wooden logs (100x60 mm) are fastened. Before that, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on the concrete column. Important! Beams are treated with antiseptic materials and drying oil before installation. Step 9 The required number of lags is set in the same way. Step 10 A layer of heat-insulating material is laid between the beams, and a layer of vapor barrier material is attached to them from above. The latter is attached with a slight slack. Step 11 For laying the flooring, a board with joint grooves will be used, which will allow the boards to be joined without gaps. Depending on the size of the room, the boards are sawn in such a way that after laying the flooring there is a gap of 1 cm between them and the walls on all sides. Step 12 Boards are treated with a brush with a special primer for wood. It is especially important to apply a greasy layer of the product to the inside and ends of each board. Step 13 The first board is laid along the wall. Don't forget to leave gaps along the walls! Step 14 The first 10 boards are laid. Part of the flooring just ends at the edge of the vapor barrier. Here the rest of the vapor barrier is laid. Joints are connected using double-sided and foil tape. The first allows you to connect two layers of fabric together, the second will protect the joint from above. The overlap of two sheets of material is about 10-15 cm. Step 15 A small bar is laid along the end of the last laid board. With hammer blows, the boards are more tightly knocked together. This will get rid of possible gaps between the boards. The board breaks through the entire length. Step 16 Using a screwdriver, the screws are screwed into the corner of the board at an angle of 45 degrees at the place where the lags pass. Step 17 The ends of the boards are also fastened with self-tapping screws. Step 18 Before the laying of the boards is continued, the chips and chips of wood that have appeared in the places where the screws are screwed in are carefully removed. Step 19 After all the boards have been laid, they are sanded. This is necessary to bring down the gloss. During grinding, it is recommended to wear safety glasses and a respirator, as the work is very dusty. After grinding, the floor surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust. Step 20 The final stage is the application of varnish on the surface of the boards. The varnish is applied with a brush along each board in two layers, the second is applied approximately two hours after the first is applied. Floors can be painted. Video - Wooden flooring Video - Installation of a wooden floor along the logs Features of wooden floor repair The advantage of a wooden floor can be called the simplicity of its repair. In this case, all the work can be done independently. Repairs must be made if the floors begin to creak or damaged floorboards are found. It is also produced when large gaps appear between the floorboards, formed due to the drying of the tree. Wooden floor on logs - installation In the latter case, the boards are simply carefully removed and stacked on a new one without gaps. If the floors are springy, then it is also necessary to completely disassemble the floors and add a few lags to reduce the distance between them - then the flooring will not sag. Arrangement and repair of a plank floor in an apartment or house is a feasible task for almost everyone who knows at least a little construction tools and has free time to do all the work. But such floors will allow you not to be afraid for your health, and they will last much longer than any laminate or other artificially created floor covering.

The right choice of flooring affects the perception of the house as a whole. Both the comfort and the appearance of the room depend on this. Natural, environmentally friendly materials are increasingly popular with consumers. They allow the house to "breathe". Therefore, wooden floors remain the most popular floor covering for residential premises. Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is within the power of anyone. But without having the appropriate experience, advice or recommendations of professionals, one cannot do.

Choosing wood for wooden floors

The first step in laying wood flooring is the choice of wood. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the financial capabilities of the family, the climatic conditions of residence, the degree of loads expected on the floor, the type of room where the floors will be laid.

For small residential buildings, it is recommended to choose softwood: spruce, larch, pine, fir or cedar. Boards made of these types of wood are distinguished by low cost, special strength and wear resistance. Of the wood of the middle price segment, oak is universal. Aspen and alder are also widely used in flooring, especially they are suitable for bedrooms and nurseries.

What should be kept in mind when choosing wood?

• Wood must be dry. The raw board will subsequently lose its shape. Overdried wood is also capable of deforming.

• Carefully inspect the boards for visible defects: cracks, tar stains, splits. Wood with such defects is not worth buying, even if you are offered a discount on it.

• Buy a board with a margin: it is better to take 15% more.

• Choose a board with a length of at least 2 m.

• Make sure all boards are from the same lot. Then you will be sure that the processing of the material was carried out under the same conditions. This means that both the drawing and the color scheme of the boards will approximately coincide.

• To make wooden flooring, it is better to use tongue-and-groove and edged wood that does not need additional sanding.

Types of wooden floors

Technology of laying wooden floors

Modern society is already tired of plastic and other polymeric materials. Increasing preference is now given to traditional wood. Although it is not as practical, strong and durable as many modern materials, it is the most acceptable option for human health. Laying the floor in wooden houses is made of parquet staves, panel parquet or plank flooring.

The design features of the flooring in houses made of timber imply two-layer. First, a preparatory layer is laid - the base. The next step is wood flooring.

Flooring in a wooden house can be carried out in two ways. The first method involves laying on the ground using a log, the second - along the floor beams.

Each of the methods has advantages and disadvantages. The choice of flooring installation method depends on the preferences of the owner and the design of the building itself.

Wood processing

Before starting work, flooring boards, logs and gaskets should be treated with a flame retardant (substance to increase fire resistance), as well as bio-impregnation to protect against fungus and putrefactive bacteria.

Waterproofing

On the base under the future floor, waterproofing is necessarily laid. It can be dense polyethylene or penofol. The second option is preferable, since penofol provides hydro and noise insulation, and also serves as a kind of shield from electromagnetic radiation.

Wooden floor base equipment

Foundation on logs

The most common method is laying a wooden covering on the logs. Among the advantages is the ability of such a design to hide differences in floor level, the ability to conduct communications under the base. For this purpose, it is rational to use a wooden beam (50x100 mm). It should be noted that the arrangement of such a base requires additional space of 7-9 cm, so this option is not suitable for low rooms.

Before laying the logs, they must be brought into the room and left there for several days. When laying them, they are placed at such a distance as to subsequently exclude the deflection of the boards.

Marking and laying lag

First, lay out two logs at the same level against opposite walls. Between them, nylon threads are stretched every 1.5 meters. The remaining logs are installed, focusing on the threads. The voids between the lags must be filled with insulation or fiberboard in two or three layers.

The distance for the location of the lag, intended for laying boards with a thickness of 30-40 cm, is 80 cm. If the boards are thinner (for example, up to 30 cm), then - 50-60 cm. For boards that are thicker than 40 cm, allow the location of the lag on distance up to 1 m.

Installation lag

The height of the lag must be adjusted using wooden wedges made of thin plywood. Logs and wedges are attached to a wooden base with long nails or wood screws. For mounting the log on a concrete base, an anchor or dowel is used. After fixing the lag, fiberboard boards are laid.

Features of flooring boards on logs

The dimensions of the boards are selected so that each of the joints is at right angles to the edge of the board, in the center of the log. The first row of boards on the logs should be laid along a stretched line, stepping back from the wall by one and a half centimeters. Boards are attached to each lag. It is necessary to pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws with a thin drill.

The gaps between the wall and the flooring are easy to mask with a plinth. For greater reliability, it is sometimes advised to use staples: the boards are joined first with staples, and then with nails. So the surface of the floor covering will look neater.

Plywood base

A plywood base is an excellent option for making subfloors in a residential area. During operation, plywood is almost not deformed. Therefore, this type of foundation is quite reliable and durable. Laying plywood on a wooden floor will also be advisable if the old plank floor is loosened or cracked. If necessary, it will not be difficult to dismantle the floor covering made on a plywood basis.

Plywood base does not require additional work. The new coating is laid directly on its surface. It is not recommended to use plywood as a base in rooms where frequent temperature changes and high humidity are possible (in the bathroom or unheated rooms).

Before proceeding with leveling the floor, sheets of plywood are placed on the floor and a diagram is drawn with chalk on how they will be laid. Taking into account this scheme, lags will be laid. Floor leveling usually begins with the installation of beacons over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. To do this, the surface is divided into squares with a side of 20-30 cm, in the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed.

They are set using a level and a screwdriver. Next, the logs are laid, on which the plywood will be laid. The thicker the plywood to be laid, the larger the gaps between the bars can be. On average, it is 40 cm. Sometimes crossbars are installed between the lags, the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.

If the logs suddenly sag, it is necessary to put pieces of plywood smeared with parquet glue. The lags themselves are attached to the base in different ways. These can be anchors, self-tapping screws, corners, pads made of glued plywood, planted on glue. When using anchors, their caps are sunk into the wood by 2-3 mm. The entire structure is additionally glued with glue, otherwise the floor will crack.

From above, to protect against condensation, the logs can be covered with rolled glassine, and only then plywood is laid. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the plywood sheets lie on the logs, and there is a small gap of 1-2 mm between the sheets themselves. This is necessary in case the plywood is deformed during mechanical action. Plywood is laid after the glue has dried.

Plywood is fastened with self-tapping screws. To fasten one sheet, you will need 8-9 self-tapping screws. To avoid unevenness at the joints, these places need to be sanded.

concrete base

If the concrete floor is perfectly flat (the screed has already been made), then the wooden layer is laid directly on the concrete base. But direct contact of the board and concrete must be avoided. Soil mastic or polyethylene foam will help with this. In the second case, the material is laid with an overlap, it will serve as a good waterproofing.

How professionals carry out wooden flooring - the video will tell novice builders.

In order to lay wooden floors with your own hands and avoid mistakes, follow this sequence:

1. First, the sanded boards are placed on the bars for marking. The flooring is made so that the age-old rings of wood look in opposite directions.
2. After trying on, the boards must be numbered in order to follow the order in the final laying. This will help to avoid additional grinding and the need to adjust the dimensions of the material every now and then.
3. Laying starts from the wall, leaving a gap for ventilation. Subsequently, this gap will be closed with a plinth. It is better to hammer nails into the board at an angle, driving the hat deeper.
4. After laying the first board at a width of 4-6 cm from the edge, staples are driven into the bars, leaving a small gap. A safety rail of small thickness is placed in the gap thus obtained. Then a wedge is driven in between the bracket and the rail (a little more than the gap). When driving in a wedge, the edges of the boards will closely press against each other, which will help to avoid cracks.
5. Next, the boards are nailed. Now the brackets can be removed. Again, a couple of boards are laid, pressed with a rail and a wedge, nailed to the beam. Fastening wood is carried out using a punch and nails. Each of the subsequent boards is compacted with a mallet, and then fastened with nails. The density of laying boards is difficult if the tongues are not machined correctly.
6. Sometimes, near the wall, the ends of the boards are sawn so that the bottom is somewhat shorter than the top. There are often problems with installing the last board. You can ease the installation of the last board by leveling the top of the tongue with a planer. Then the board is glued, and then nailed with countersunk nails closer to the edge. Don't worry about the appearance: the nails will hide under the plinth.
7. After completion of the work on the flooring, the joints are polished. To eliminate irregularities and differences, even during installation at the joints, you can put a little cardboard, roofing felts or roofing material under the bars. It is better not to put wood chips.
8. The previously formed gaps between the wall and the wooden flooring are masked with skirting boards with grooves or bevels, fillet.
9. After these works, it will be possible to carry out laminate flooring on a wooden floor, and parquet, and parquet boards.

Tinting will help "repaint" your floor from relatively inexpensive woods and give it noble shades. About special tinting compounds - stains, with which wood can be given any color, we will tell in the material:.

Surface treatment

It is known that as a result of the influence of natural factors (humidity, the action of microorganisms, various mechanical damage, the consequences of improper operation), the coating shining with freshness and cleanliness begins to break down, becomes unusable, while losing its decorative and functional properties. To prolong the durability of wood and improve the quality of the coating, proper care is necessary.

If you want to leave without any coverage, then the final step is to process it:

• grinding;
• leaching with soda (treatment with greasy soap);
• primer with a mixture of drying oil and vegetable oil;
• painting or varnishing.

When applying impregnation, varnish or paint, move parallel to the grain of the wood. So the marks from the passage of a brush or roller will be less noticeable.

Lovers of natural shades will certainly be interested in such an old processing method as fumigating wood with smoke. Depending on the type of wood and the quality of the wood, various specific shades are obtained.

In custody

When choosing a material for flooring, many are guided by aesthetic considerations, their own concepts of comfort, value for money. Therefore, today, when a lot of new materials have appeared on sale, everyone who can afford it chooses wooden floors.

When the developer is faced with the question of how to make a wooden floor in his house, not everyone knows about the existence of several designs. They differ from each other in structure and additional materials. Any professional uses exactly the option that he studied and in which he is a dock. We decided to combine all the designs in one material and cover each of them in detail.

Let's start with the classification of methods. Wooden floors can be laid:

1. On the floor beams.
2. According to the lags.
3. On a concrete base.

We have singled out the second option as a separate type, although all wooden floors are installed only along the logs. In this case, we will have to talk about the technology of using the lag system as the basis of the floor structure, so we will start with it.

Wooden floor on joists

Imagine a built private house with no floors. For example, the first floor. What do you see in front of you? The basement part of the foundation on which the walls of the building are erected. But part of the base is free in width. This is done on purpose so that the plinth can act as a support for wooden floor structures. It is on him that the logs will rest with their edges, so that the foundation will become the basis and support for them. It is good if the rooms in the house are small, and the logs lie quietly from one end of the room to the other, without sagging too much. Such elements can withstand heavy loads.

But if the room is large, then even the strongest logs will sag. Therefore, under them it is necessary to install supports in the form of small columns. As a material for them, you can use brick, various blocks, stone, metal pipes, logs, large-section beams, double or triple boards, reinforced concrete products and more. Here it is important to choose a simple and inexpensive option, for example, brick supports, or pour the posts with concrete mortar, installing a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement inside. The first option is simpler because it does not involve concrete mortar, which will take a very long time to dry.

In this case, it must be borne in mind that the supports must stand on a solid foundation. Therefore, pay attention to the installation diagram.

How to properly install supports

First, the location of the supports is determined. This will depend on two factors. The first is the distance between the lags, and the second is the distance between the supports along the lag. The first indicator is determined by the parameters of the floorboards used. The thicker they are, the greater the distance between the elements. For example, with a board thickness of 40–50 millimeters, the logs can be 1.0–1.2 meters apart from each other. The same is true with the second indicator, which depends on the lag section. There is a standard range - 80–120 centimeters. So there shouldn't be any problems in this regard.

Now, as for the installation itself. You need to start by pouring the foundation for each support. To do this, make small recesses of a square shape with dimensions of 40 × 40 centimeters and a depth of 20 centimeters. You carry out sand or gravel bedding with a thickness of 10 centimeters, compact it, install a mesh reinforcement frame and fill it all with concrete.

After drying, a roofing material is laid on each foundation, which will perform waterproofing functions. It is better to lay the roofing material in 2 layers crosswise.

Now you can assemble support posts from bricks. The more powerful the construction of the wooden floor, the wider the supports should be, so a rack of one and a half bricks is enough. Bricks are laid with a bandage on a cement-sand mortar.

Attention! It is necessary to build the posts in such a way that their surfaces are horizontal and in the same plane. This is an important point that will eventually determine the evenness of the wooden floor.

So, the supports are ready, and you can install the logs. Today, new building materials and fasteners are increasingly appearing on the market, which simplify installation processes. In the case of a wooden floor, there are also such simplifications. For example, a mounting metal corner, which is installed on supports and attached to them with dowels-anchors. And to the log, it is fixed with an ordinary wood screw. In addition, this device can smooth out small differences in the plane by raising or lowering the edges of the log.

On this, the lag structure is ready, and you can mount the wooden flooring from the boards. But we will talk about this later.

Wooden floor on floor beams

How to make a warm wooden floor

This is a simpler design than the previous version, but also more reliable. After all, firstly, the floor beams themselves are large-section wooden beams that can withstand significant loads. And, secondly, a lag structure is installed along them, making the sexual base even stronger and tougher. It turns out a dual system.

What are floor beams, and what sizes do they come in? Let's start with the fact that they can be laid on the foundation and on the walls, for which special nests are built. Their size depends on the material of the beams. If these are double or triple boards, then the length of the nest will be at least 100 millimeters. And if these are beams, then not less than 150 millimeters. The span of such a beam can vary from 2.5 to 4.0 meters, and in the case of beams made of glued beams, up to 12 meters. Currently, manufacturers offer floor beams with a rectangular or I-section.

And a few words about the dimensions of the section of the elements and their relationship with the spacing of the beams in space. For example, if the cross section of the material is 75 × 150 millimeters, then the distance between the elements is 1 meter with a span of 2 meters. The section is 100 × 200 mm, the step is 0.6 m, the span is 4.0 m. That is, for any house, choosing a certain section of the beam, you can accurately select the distance between the beams and vice versa. All these parameters are determined by GOSTs and SNiPs, so the selection will not cause problems.

Now to the question of the construction of the wooden floor itself. Making them will be easy. Floor beams, although made of wood, are quite heavy. So you will have to invite assistants who will install them at the installation site. The beams are usually not fastened due to their significant weight, but you can simply fix them with metal fastening corners, which were already mentioned above when the option of installing a log along the supports was considered. There is no need to align these elements in the same plane, because such a process is easier to carry out with the help of a log. The only thing you should pay attention to is the waterproofing of the ends of the log, which you just need to wrap with roofing material.

Now a lag structure is being installed according to the previously discussed technology. Logs are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws or metal corners. By the way, this fastener turned out to be simple, very convenient, reliable and versatile, so other fastening methods are gradually receding into rear positions. Before starting fastening, it is necessary to align the entire lag system in one plane horizontally.

To do this, you need to install two extreme logs at opposite walls in the same plane so that they are horizontal. This is easy to do if you use a laser level and a rule or a metal ruler. Set the level in the middle of the room and turn it on. Then, on the edge of one of the two logs, install a ruler, along the body of which you make a note. This size must exactly match the other edges of the same log and the opposite. Somewhere you will have to lower one edge, raise it somewhere, so you need spacers made of wood. Then you stretch several rows of threads between these elements so that they do not sag, and align the intermediate lags along them. Then carry out fastening, floor insulation and installation of floorboards.

Wooden floor on concrete

How to make a wooden floor on concrete

This design is one of the most common, especially in city apartments. Such a floor can be mounted both on a reinforced concrete floor slab and on a concrete base poured over the ground. In any case, it will be a durable concrete mortar floor. It is very difficult to achieve high evenness of such a base, so alignment will have to be carried out with a lag structure. The technology here is identical to the one described above, so we will not repeat ourselves.

The only thing you need to pay attention to is how to install and fasten the lag. There are three of them:

1. Directly to the concrete base through through holes in the logs. For this, long self-tapping screws or metal dowels are usually used.
2. Installation on a metal mounting bracket or wooden bosses.
3. The use of special self-aligning mechanisms that have the form of a bolted bolt-nut connection.

The first two methods are performed in almost the same way as in the case already described. But the third option is an innovation that appeared not so long ago. For him, you will have to buy special fixtures and install them on the ends of the log. True, today many lumber manufacturers themselves install these mechanisms at the factory, saving consumers from possible errors during fastening. The design is so simple and original that leveling a wooden floor with it will not be difficult. Here you do not need to raise or lower the lags, making some complicated maneuvers with them. It is enough to tighten the nut or bolt with a wrench to raise or lower the end of the log. It's really a simplified alignment system.

After that, the lag is fixed between two nuts and washers, and the mechanism itself, using the support platform, which is its basis, is attached to the concrete base with anchors. Many may doubt that such a small device can withstand serious loads. Do not hesitate - all this has long been tested and verified. Moreover, the tests were successful, and the time during which self-leveling logs are operated indicates their reliability.

How to lay wood flooring

Wooden coverings in the house

As you can see, building a wooden floor with your own hands, or rather, the construction of the base, is not so simple. The same can be said about the boardwalk, because in this technology there are several nuances that deserve attention.

Let's list the stages of construction and note these very nuances:

1. Nuance number 1 is a gap of 1 centimeter between the wall and the floor. Wood is a “breathable” material, therefore, with changes in humidity and temperature, it will necessarily expand or contract. The gap is compensation for expansion. By the way, it will be covered with a plinth, so it will not be visible.
2. Nuance number 2 - it is recommended to install floorboards along the room. Then shadows will not be cast from the junction between the elements. And it is better to use grooved boards - the floor will be monolithic.
3. Nuance number 3 - wooden floors must be insulated. To do this, the insulation is placed in the inter-lag space and closed on both sides with protective moisture-resistant films. In addition, all wooden elements of the floor base must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants.
4. Nuance number 4 - the first board is mounted against the wall parallel to it with a ridge in its direction. Fastening is carried out with a wood screw in the groove of the lock along the logs.
5. Nuance No. 5 - the second board is installed nearby and firmly pressed against the first one with a mallet. It is important here that the joint is tight and without the smallest gap.
6. Nuance No. 6 - fastening is made in a groove, and all boards are fixed in this way. The last element of the plank floor is not attached to the groove, but to the edges closer to the wall. The attachment points are closed with a plinth.

Conclusion on the topic

Of course, the construction of wooden floors is not finished at this point, because they will still have to be scraped, painted or varnished, that is, brought to perfection. But our goal is information about how wood floors are built, not how they are finished.

How complex are the described processes? Of course, everything is not so simple. But if you take into account the nuances and important points, as well as choose the right materials, then you can do this work yourself. True, this will take more time than professionals, but you will save on paying them.

Related publications

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

The main element of the building structure for the floor is the strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made of a powerful bar with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oil-treated wooden parts do not rot or absorb moisture, so they last for many years. In the absence of oil, special tools are used that are available in every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fixing components, special brackets or studs are used. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any available options can act as a finishing floor, including water-heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to correctly bring engineering communications, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, an electric water heater can be installed under the subfloor, or a gas boiler room can be equipped. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. The non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards are widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing with a special adhesive. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

• does not require special skills;
• the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of the modern flooring options: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and leveling the surface.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor. Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. Natural material is increasingly used by the owners of country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether a structure is being built on a foundation, earth, screw piles, or simply on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First prepare the walls, equipping them with ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In a light country house used for a seasonal stay, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

The double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees growing in tropical forests have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Boards made of coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is laying it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as in the case of a solid board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that self-installation is possible without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by being persistent, following a step-by-step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat is removed, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During the overhaul of floors, wet or caked insulation is changed, as well as insulation.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from plywood smeared with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with sheet building material (fiberboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be adversely affected. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

Today there is a wide choice of coverings for a floor: a parquet, a laminate, a floor tile and other. But natural wood has not gone out of fashion for several hundred years and is one of the most popular materials.

What is her secret? Many people know that even Siberian frosts are not terrible for a wooden floor, and it is difficult to overestimate the unique comfort that a wooden floor gives to a room.

It is also important that wooden boards are an environmentally friendly material. Not every floor covering can boast of this. The most important thing is that you can even lay a wooden floor on your own. It is only necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions that we will outline in our article. We will tell you how to choose the right wooden plank, reveal the features of wood, tell you about the most accessible methods of laying wood flooring, tell you the secrets of waterproofing and much more.

The first thing you need to start preparing for laying a wooden floor is the right wood. In addition to the fact that you should choose only dry, not rotten wood, you also need to decide on its grade. An important factor in resolving this issue will be your financial potential, since a tree of valuable species costs decent money. You can stop at the budget option, which will serve you for more than a dozen years.

Floor board. Name, material, size	Price, rub./m2
Floor board Pine K1-2 (25x90) 1.8m	250
Floor board Pine K1-2 (25x90) 1.0m	250
Floor board Pine K1-2 (28x130) 1.8m	290
Floor board Pine K1-2 (28x130) 2.0m	480
Floor board Pine K1-2 (28x130) 6.0m	480
Floor board Pine K1-2 (32x100) 5.4m	570
Floor board Pine K1-2 (32x130) 5.85m	570
Floor board Larch K2-3 (27x90) 5.4m	460
Floor board Larch K2-3 (27x90) 5.1m	460
Floor board Larch K2-3 (27x90) 4.8m	460
Floor board Larch K1-2 (27x130) 3.0m	560
Floor board Larch K1-2 (27x110) 3.0m	560
Heat-treated pine LUNAWOOD (Finland). Floor board (grooving) 26x92	195 rub. /rm
Europol (pine, 32 mm)	grade 0 (Extra) 970.56 rubles/m2; grade 1 (Prima) 676.80 rubles/m2; grade 2 (B) 460.00 rub/m2; grade 3 (C) 384.00 rub/m2; grade H / K (D) 301.76 rubles / m2.

Several types of wood are offered to the buyer to choose from. It is mainly beech, pine, ash, larch, spruce, maple. Consider the characteristics of each of them.

wood species	Description
Ash	floorboards made of this type of wood will please the owners of the house with their density and elasticity in operation; but, despite the fact that it is exposed to steam, it still remains susceptible to atmospheric phenomena; such a floor necessarily needs to be coated - it can be varnish or paint
Oak	the oak speaks for itself; oak floorboards dating back to the 14th century are still preserved in some castles! This material is very durable, it is practically not subject to changes in temperature and humidity, it has several colors and textures.
Larch	larch is one of the favorites among other woods that are used for wood flooring; it is durable, water and frost resistant, not subject to damage by insects
Maple	lovers of an unusual pattern on the floor often choose maple wood as a floor covering; maple wood is also moisture resistant, it is easy to process, so craftsmen like to cover maple floorboards with different types of paint or simply matte it like silk
Beech	beech is the main competitor for oak; despite its lower cost, it does not differ much in terms of quality: it is durable, has a wide range of colors, is easy to paint, does not change its color after varnishing, imitates mahogany or walnut
Pine	pine flooring, by far, is the most affordable, and therefore common; pine has an average density and a pleasant yellowish color; parquet and floorboard are made from pine wood

If you have decided on the type of wood, then you can proceed to the next stage - its direct selection.

Choice of wood

Here are the main provisions according to which you should approach the choice of material:

• wooden boards must be well dried, not damp. Otherwise, the wooden floor will deform over time;
• there should be no scratches, cracks and dents on the boards;
• the optimal length of wooden floorboards is 2 meters;
• give preference to a cut or tongue-and-groove board, as it no longer requires grinding;
• when choosing wood, consider the features of the rooms in which it will be laid (for a bathroom or kitchen, purchase only moisture-resistant wood species).

If you have already thought everything over and proceed to the buying process itself, then purchase a tree 15% more than the planned amount. It will go to cover the trimmed footage on the ledges, corners and other recesses of the floor. The third, most important stage is coming - laying the wooden floor.

Principles of laying wooden flooring

There are several types of wood flooring. It all depends on the type of house itself. Residents of block high-rise buildings prefer parquet. Those who live in wooden houses choose panel parquet or wooden flooring. And if you live in a house made of timber, then you will also please yourself with a classic massive wooden floor. The laying of the floorboards should be carried out in two stages. The first stage involves the creation of a special preparatory layer, and then the laying of the wooden sheet itself takes place. You can perform manual laying of a wooden floor along the floor beams or using a log.

Waterproofing

One of the important aspects of laying a wooden floor is waterproofing. It is placed on the basis of future coverage. Most often, penofol and polyethylene are used for waterproofing wooden floors. These materials are soundproof, do not let moisture through and protect the owners of the house from various types of radiation.

You need to be very careful when performing waterproofing, as it is a guarantee of a decent appearance for your floor. After laying the waterproofing, you need to take care of the insulation layer. In this case, it is worth giving preference to mineral wool, sawdust, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or isolon. Having chosen materials for waterproofing and warming your floor, we will begin to manufacture the very foundation of the future wooden floor.

An example of warming a wooden floor with Penoplex

Styrofoam	polyurethane foam	Min. plate
open cell structure	There is both open and closed cell structure	Fibers randomly arranged in vertical and horizontal directions
Poor moisture permeability	Almost impervious to moisture	Almost does not absorb moisture
Lightweight material	Lightweight material	Medium-light material
Medium strength	Low strength	Low/medium strength
Average compressive strength	Low compressive strength	Low to medium compressive strength
Non toxic	Non-toxic, emits carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide at a temperature of 500 degrees	Non toxic
	Not suitable for high load use	Not all slabs are suitable for high load applications
prone to decay	Durable enough	Durable enough
exposed to ultraviolet light	Virtually unaffected by ultraviolet light	Sufficient UV resistance

Subfloor preparation

Based on your budget, there are several bases you can choose from for your wood flooring:

• plywood;
• concrete;
• lags.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

concrete base

If your rooms have low ceilings, then you can forget about the lags, since the height of your room will decrease by 10-15 cm - just what you need. To do this, you only need to purchase self-leveling material and follow these steps:

Pouring a self-levelling floor

This option is ideal for those who have a solid height of their rooms. Moreover, under the lags it is very easy to carry out the installation of communications. Before using the logs as a basis for a wooden floor, they must be left for several days in the room where they will be mounted. You can attach logs both to the walls of the log house itself, and to the main foundation of the house.

Hidden communications can be fixed under the lags

It is necessary to place the logs along the walls opposite each other and pull the ropes every 150 cm. They will become a guideline for you, with the help of which laying the log will be easier and faster. Between the lags have a heater. The logs are laid on the floor, at a distance of 80 cm from each other. It will be possible to mount a wooden board 4-5 cm thick on them.

Pieces of plywood or wooden pegs are often used to adjust the height. They can be fixed on the logs with self-tapping screws. If you decide to lay the logs on a concrete screed, then you will need dowels and anchors as fasteners. Do not forget that the heads of these fasteners must be recessed into the wooden base by 2-3 mm! After that, you can safely mount wooden boards. Laying the first row of boards is not close to the wall, but having previously retreated 1-1.5 cm. This distance will subsequently be closed with a plinth. We attach each board to the log.

Plywood floor base

The plywood base is suitable for those rooms and premises that will not subsequently be exposed to moisture. If you have this option, then plywood is a great solution. This material is not subject to severe deformation, as it is quite durable. It is also easy to dismantle in the event that it becomes necessary to replace the flooring.

Type of plywood	Description
Plywood FC	moisture-resistant appearance, urea resin is used for gluing veneer sheets. This plywood is designed for indoor use.
Plywood FKM	has increased water resistance, is made on the basis of melamine resins. This type of plywood is unique because it is made from environmentally friendly melamine resins. Due to its environmental characteristics, plywood is used in furniture production and for interior finishing work.
Plywood FSF	veneer sheets are glued together using phenolic resin. This type of plywood also has increased water resistance. It is not recommended for interior decoration, as phenolic resins are harmful to health. Usually used for outdoor finishing work
Laminated plywood	contains FSF plywood, which is covered on both sides with a special film. The plywood laminated is applied to production of a timbering. This type can be used multiple times.
Bakelized plywood	Bakelite resin is used for gluing sheets of veneer. This type of plywood is used in aggressive climates, sea water, aggressive environments, sometimes for monolithic work.
marine plywood	similar to bakelized, but less durable. Made from foreign woods
Plywood Flexible	foreign option. A distinctive feature is the ability to bend well in the transverse and longitudinal directions

Before laying the flooring, check the entire surface of the floor with a level. You can use special beacons. After that, we lay the logs (described above) and attach sheets of plywood to them. It is worth noting that in the case of installing plywood sheets, the distance between the logs should not be more than 40 cm. In order to prevent condensation from forming in your wooden floor, glassine is placed between the logs and plywood.

To eliminate the creakiness of the lag, these wooden beams are impregnated with glue. Only after the glue has completely dried, plywood sheets are attached to the logs. Be careful! The edges of the plywood sheets should be attached directly to the logs. Make it easier with self-tapping screws. Between the sheets you need to leave gaps of 2 mm. Do not forget to sand the joints of the sheets as well. You can do this with sandpaper.

Laying a wooden floor on a concrete screed

After pouring the floor with self-leveling concrete, the floorboards themselves lay directly on it.

Regardless of what kind of substrate you will lay your wood floor on, you should adhere to the following universal rules:

Many people have a lot of problems with laying the last remaining board. You can remove all irregularities with a planer. After that, it remains only to glue this floorboard and drive screws or nails into it.

You need to start grinding the joints only when you have already laid all the wooden boards and installed the skirting boards. They should completely cover all those gaps that you left for floor ventilation. After sanding, the floor can be varnished or painted. Do not forget that the movements of the brush should be parallel to the fibers of the tree.

Despite the fact that the process of self-laying a wooden floor is quite laborious, it is worth it. In addition to the environmental friendliness and naturalness of the floor, an incredible atmosphere of coziness and comfort will envelop your home for many years. What is this unique smell of wood worth! Do not forget that such a floor will become a natural air purifier in your home. With wooden floors, you will not freeze in winter and will feel the coolness of the forest in the summer heat.

All the advantages of wood coating are not strongly dependent on the type of wood. The above opportunities will be used by the owners of beech floors and oak flooring. The only question is durability. Therefore, if your budget allows you only a wooden floor made of inexpensive pine, by all means go for this option. You will never regret it.

We hope that our advice will help you to install a wooden floor on your own and enjoy all its benefits.

Vido - Installation of the floorboard

Video - How to properly lay a wooden floor