How to treat fence posts so that they do not rot? How to make and install wooden fence posts? How to protect wooden poles.

How to install wooden fence posts with your own hands

Wooden fence posts need to be protected from the adverse effects of moisture and the external environment. The durability of the structure as a whole depends on a properly selected septic tank to protect against rot and insects.

The method of mounting the pillars depends on the quality of the soil. Let's take a closer look at how to properly protect and install wooden fence posts.

Pros and cons of wooden poles

Wooden poles are the best option for attaching sections to a wooden fence of any complexity. To attach the lag to them, complex equipment is not required. The advantages of wooden fence posts include:

mechanical strength - the poles can withstand strong gusts of wind;
when using additional preventive treatment from decay in problem areas, the period of operation can increase up to 25 years;
go well with wooden fences of various designs;
environmentally friendly;
budget option compared to metal poles.

Wooden poles for fencing

The disadvantages of wooden poles include periodic maintenance (painting), the need to treat from rot and insects. In places where fence supports are spliced, the protective layer is broken, resulting in rotting of the structure at the junctions.

The service life of wooden poles with proper impregnation and additional protection against decay in the ground is no more than 25 years, without protection - no more than 7 years.

How to choose the right tree?

For pillars, it is necessary to choose well-dried bars without bark. Bark beetles and other pests most often live under the bark, so the material with the bark must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with a septic tank from insects. Twisted and curved bars are the result of improper drying. It is almost impossible to properly install the fence canvases on such supports. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 15%.

For poles, it is recommended to choose planed beams from larch, pine or oak. Oak poles are preferable, they will last much longer, but their cost is much higher. You should also not take lumber with knots. In places where knots are located, the beam loses strength and can break off under mechanical load.

When buying a bar, you need to pay attention to the presence of delamination of wood and traces of mold. Material with mold, even after cleaning the damaged areas and treating with a septic tank, will continue to rot. Wood with stratifications is generally unusable.

How to process wooden fence posts?

Wooden fence posts need not only systematic care after installation, but also preventive treatment against mold and decay. What is it for? Bars of any species lend themselves to rotting. The areas on the border with the soil rot most intensively due to the fact that high humidity remains in this place, which means that a favorable environment is maintained for the reproduction of mold fungi. On the higher parts of the beam, rotting is not so intense due to the fact that the material has time to dry and ventilate at a height.

Wooden fence posts are susceptible to weevil and house grinder damage. Insects prefer a humid environment, so they initially settle in the bars on the border with the ground, gradually spreading throughout the column, destroying it. To protect against pests, special septic tanks for wood are used. If, due to an oversight, you come across an infected tree, it can still be saved, but only in cases where the lesions are spotty and insignificant.

To combat bugs, local preparations of intestinal action and contact agents are used. For outdoor work, you can use the following preparations of intestinal action: zinc chloride, sodium fluoride, copper sulfate and creosote oils. Suitable from contact preparations chlorophos or hexachloran. Heavily infected bars are best destroyed; such treatment is not enough for them.

Drying mounted wood poles

To protect against mold and fungi, it is necessary to choose septic tanks suitable for outdoor use. Impregnations are of two types. Some form a film on the surface of the beam, others deeply impregnate the fibers.

Penetrating impregnations are the most effective. These include Aidol Langzeit-Lasur, Belinka Interier Sauna and others. Senezh Ecobio is combined with varnish and paint. Pirilaks will additionally protect the bars from fire.

Suitable for insect protection Aqua-lacquer Bor, Aquatex, Polyex Woodpecker. There are universal preparations for complex treatment of bugs and rot. Water-based preparations for fence bars are not suitable.

Step-by-step installation of wooden supports

The usual driving of pillars into the ground is not recommended without first protecting the lower part of the timber from decay. The part of the pillar that will be in the ground is lightly fired and treated with resin beforehand. This installation method is not suitable for rocky soils, as well as soft ground areas.

Preparation of supports for installation

The process of installing wooden poles is performed in this order:

The territory of the future fencing is marked out, the places for installing the pillars are marked, taking into account the necessary interval between them.
A hole is drilled with a drill or dug manually to the required depth (1-1.5 m). The depth depends on the type of soil and the weight of the fence sections.
Installing a pole in a dug hole.
Fixing the beam with concreting or backfilling.

On heaving lands, backfilling is used. For this purpose, building rubble, fine gravel and broken red brick are used. The hole for the poles must be at least 1.2 meters. Sand is poured into the bottom of the hole, then a pole is installed, which must be fixed with wedges. The entire space around the post is covered with rubble with gradual thorough tamping. It is necessary to ensure that the pole does not deviate to the side. On such soils it is not recommended to use concreting.

Concreting wooden poles is the most effective installation method.

Concrete mortar additionally protects the wooden structure from moisture and decay. For concreting, it is enough to dig or drill a hole 1 meter deep with a drill. For high fences with heavy wooden canvases, the depth is increased to 1.2-1.5 meters. A pole is installed in the resulting well and poured with concrete. Next, the beam must be moved a little and lifted so that the liquid solution penetrates under the base of the beam. It is not recommended to use cement mortar instead of concrete.

With any installation method, the poles are treated with preparations to protect against rot and insects. Part of the timber, which will be placed underground, is kept in a septic tank solution for two days. Before installation, the poles should dry well.

The following video tells about the installation of wooden supports and the further installation of the fence:

Wood remains the most common building material that owners of country houses and cottages use to build various fences on the site. The wattle fence between the recreation area and the beds near the cottage, a beautiful wooden fence around a country house or a low wooden picket fence around flower beds in the yard will look harmonious. But unprotected wood is subject to rapid deterioration due to constant interaction with rain, wind, snow, and the sun.

In shaded areas in the yards of cottages, in places with high humidity, boards quickly lose their original appearance and become moldy or affected by fungus. How to process fence posts and the plank fence of a country house itself so that they retain their attractive appearance for more than one year? There are many ways to treat wood, although fence posts, for example, require different protections for the outside and the one that goes into the ground.

Common mistakes when installing wooden poles

Initially, it is important to understand the reasons why the support posts for the fence become unusable and how they need to be processed. This happens, first of all, under the influence of moisture, which, by impregnating the wood, creates “good” conditions for the development of all kinds of bacteria. And if the top of the pillar has time to dry out under the sun and wind, then at the point of contact with the damp earth, the process becomes irreversible. The tree begins to rot, becomes covered with mold, insect pests start up there. The processes of decay in the lower part of the column are somewhat slower, but inevitable. There is no better way to prevent this process than to treat the fence posts with antiseptics and waterproof their lower part.

The typical mistakes of summer residents when installing wooden poles include the wrong choice and installation of a log, as well as non-compliance with the rules for processing the underground part.

When choosing pillars, you should pay attention to the general condition of the wood - the absence of signs of rot, blueing, pests. The moisture content of wood should not exceed 15%. Logs must be sanded and dried before treatment with antiseptics.

It is important to determine where the log has the top and where the bottom is, since the pole must always be dug up with the butt up. This prevents "sucking" of water through the capillaries.
In no case do not wrap the treated end of the tree with roofing material, since when moisture enters such a “glass”, it remains there forever, creating conditions for decay.

The treatment of wooden poles is necessary with preparations that have antiseptic, moisture-proof and fire-retardant properties.

Compositions for processing the underground part of the pillars

There are many folk methods on how and with what to process fence posts.

Here are a few of them:

Coating with birch tar or spruce resin (the oldest and most proven method).
Processing with used car oil (the cheapest way). The oil is applied in several layers in a heated state, thoroughly soaking all the ends and cracks. 90% of the mining composition is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. The acid salts contained in the mining kill any fungus in the wood.
Roasting and processing with bitumen. That part of the log that will be buried in the ground can be burned either on a fire or with a gas burner, creating a charred layer of several millimeters. The burnt part is treated with molten tar or bitumen.

The protective layer is applied in two stages, so that each layer of bituminous impregnation can harden, it is necessary to withstand the drying period of the first layer for about a day. Bituminous impregnation is correspondingly black, so only treat the part of the wooden fence post that will be hidden in the ground with it.

It is not recommended to apply bituminous impregnation on wooden poles during fog or rain.

The construction market also offers all kinds of synthetic waterproofing compounds - mastics, pastes, etc. For example, Biom-2 or Izhora bituminous mixtures, several layers of which, in combination with a fiberglass mesh and a protective film, create excellent waterproofing with high protective properties, designed for 10-15 years of operation. Moreover, a 15-kilogram bucket of such a mixture costs only 450 rubles.

Neomid 430 eco - preservative indelible antiseptic for external use, which provides maximum protection for wood during prolonged contact with soil and moisture. Protects against damage by wood-destroying and wood-coloring mold fungi, algae, mosses, as well as wood-boring insects for up to 35 years.

Installing unfinished poles is strongly discouraged.

Step-by-step instructions for installing and protecting support poles

Step one.

We determine where the butt of the log is and mark that this will be the top of the pillar. Before proceeding with the installation of fence posts, its lower part should be treated with a penetrating antiseptic to a height of 1.5 meters. Better by immersion for two days in a 5% solution of copper or iron sulphate. You can also apply a 5% solution of potassium bichromate in 5% sulfuric acid, the remaining solution will need to soak the soil around the dug-in post. This will provide antifungal protection for 15-20 years.

Step two.

After impregnation with an antiseptic, the buried part is treated with one of the types of waterproofing (bitumen, tar, mastic, mining, etc.).

Step three.

We are in the process of installing the pole. There are several different ways, some of which provide additional protection for the pole from interacting with wet soil.

Option one (cheapest). The processed end of the column is buried in the ground and carefully rammed. After a few years, it is imperative to check its base for the appearance of fungus or rot.

Option two. Prepare a hole a little over a meter deep and twice as wide as the diameter of the column. The bottom is covered with gravel, then a “glass” without a bottom is made of geotextile or other non-woven material around the perimeter, which will protect the gravel backfill from clogging with earth. The entire space is covered not with soil, but with gravel or rubble, carefully tamped and spilled with mining.

Option three (the most expensive, since the purchase of pipes is added to the costs). Using a sleeve made of a metal or asbestos-cement pipe into which a wooden pole is inserted. Since the sleeve rises 10 centimeters above ground level, the tree will not have direct contact with the ground, and therefore will be subject to decay processes.

The process of installing a wooden pole into a sleeve requires care and time. So that the pillar does not fall inward, you should select a piece of pipe (100 cm) with a diameter less than the diameter of the pillar by about 10 centimeters. The log is laid on the goats and at a height of about 30-40 they make a circular cut, and then with the help of an ax remove the necessary layer. The resulting cylinder should enter the pipe freely.

First, this part of the column is impregnated with drying oil or mining, and allowed to dry for several days. Then, the tar is heated on a fire to a liquid state, the beveled end of the column is thickly coated with a hot mass with a brush, and a piece of pipe is planted. The gap between the tree and the pipe and the lower part of the post are also treated with tar. The resulting pole is buried so that the top of the pipe protrudes slightly above the ground.

Step four.

Impregnation of the visible part of the column with an antiseptic and applying the main coating (paint, varnish). To further protect the pole, experts recommend covering it with a tin cover.

Protective coatings for the visible part of the post

The upper part of the post, which is above ground level, also requires special protection with both antiseptics and protective paints and varnishes. To understand how to process fence posts, decide on the type of coverage. If it is important to preserve the texture of wood, then coatings such as Pinotex or Belinka, Biotex, AVIS timbercoat varnish have long established themselves on the market.

If it is planned to apply paint, then both a simple domestic-made oil paint based on zinc white and wood paints from the largest foreign manufacturers Tikkurila (Finland), Selena (Poland), Alpa (France), Akzo N.V. » (Netherlands), Belinka Belles (Slovenia).

Before applying a layer of paint, the tree is always primed.

The paintwork should be renewed every three to five years to keep the wood from rotting and being damaged by insects.

Wooden poles in suburban areas are still very popular. If we are talking about a capital monster fence, made of a metal profile with a claim “for centuries”, which should intimidate a potential intruder with its appearance, of course it is better to use concrete or metal poles-pipes. But when it is necessary to enclose a front garden with flowers, to protect the garden from the penetration of domestic animals, and in general, only to designate a decorative fence, it is better to use cheap wooden poles. But wooden poles, unfortunately, have a very low durability, since the tree rots very quickly when in contact with constantly wet ground. Even oak and larch, which in water, without contact with atmospheric oxygen, stand for centuries, being buried in the ground will not last even two decades. But there are fairly simple ways to protect wooden poles from decay.

First of all, consider the causes of decay. Wood rots in the constant presence of moisture and oxygen. Such conditions are created at the border of earth and air, in the place where the pillar sticks out of the ground. In this place, decay occurs most intensively. Above this place, the wood is well ventilated and does not rot so intensively. Below - on the contrary, oxygen is not enough for active decay and decay there also slows down. This means that we need to take some measures to protect the tree at the point where the wooden post leaves the ground.

The second point is the typical mistakes of summer residents when using wooden poles and supports. Firstly, in most cases they bury the pole on the wrong side. Wood raises its juices along the trunk due to osmosis. Osmosis is the upward movement of fluid through the finest capillaries. And if you bury a log in the same way as it grew (with a butt below), then it will continue to draw moisture from the ground into the trunk. If you bury it upside down, the suction of moisture along the trunk will decrease significantly.

Secondly, to protect the tree, its underground part is often smeared with molten bitumen, wrapped with roofing material. In this case, a kind of "glass" is formed. Moisture, having got into it once, can no longer leave it, and the tree constantly has its own supply of moisture.

Thirdly, completely unprepared raw wood is used for temporary use, cheap, “replace at any time”. But there is nothing more permanent than temporary buildings. Over time, they are overgrown with infrastructure, they get used to them, and sometimes it’s not all of a sudden to get close to a rotten pole, let alone replace it. And the props and pegs begin to go. The fence takes on a dilapidated appearance.

Meanwhile, it is enough to carry out simple preparatory activities that will take a little time and your fence will be like new for many, many years, even with wooden posts. These rules are quite simple.

1. Initially use only healthy wood, dried, with no signs of rot. If this is not edged lumber, but a log - a pod, be sure to sand it and let it weather a little. And it is better in general - to dry out under a canopy for a year.

2. Soak the part that is planned for deepening, plus 30-50 cm above (remember that this is the apical part, not the butt), soak with a penetrating antiseptic. Better - by immersion for a day - two. Copper or iron vitriol has proven itself perfectly. A tree impregnated with a 5-7% solution of vitriol does not rot in the ground for 15-20 years.

3. So that the impregnation does not wash out, put on some kind of cap on the upper end of the column, nail a tin cover. Moisture is very intensively absorbed into the butt of the tree. And the cover not only protects the tree from moisture, but can also serve as a decorative decoration.

4. When installing the post, dig (drill) a hole 2-3 times wider than the diameter of the post. First, throw some large gravel at the bottom of the hole. Then, having installed a post, fill the hole with large gravel as well, and not with earth. Thus, you will ensure excellent drainage of the underground part of the column and its relative ventilation. It will be even better if you first insert a "glass" without a bottom into the hole made of non-woven material such as "Agrotex", "Geotextile", etc. It will not allow the drainage to become clogged with earth.

5. Be sure to paint the column itself. This will not only improve its appearance, but also protect it from moisture. But it is recommended to paint only well-dried wood.

6. If you want to really solve the issue with the columns completely, then you can use metal sleeves - pipe trimmings. They are buried in the ground so that they rise 10-15 cm above the ground. And wooden posts are inserted into them. So you can save a lot on columns, because. wood is much cheaper than metal, and one post will only take about 1/3 of the pipe you would have to use, make the posts all metal. Yes, and the wooden posts look prettier. So that the column does not fall into the sleeve, the diameter of the latter is taken somewhat smaller than the size of the column, and the column itself is hemmed to the required size.

As you can see, the activities are not at all complicated, but they will make your wooden posts practically “eternal”.

Wooden fences are a traditional type of private territory fencing in Russia, which is still popular today. Supports for construction are often chosen wooden. True, in order for the structure to last for a long time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the material and properly prepare the beam or log for installation.

Benefits of installing wooden poles

Wooden fence posts are suitable as a supporting structure for wooden and metal picket fence, corrugated board. Along with reinforced concrete and metal supports, wooden ones are still often chosen. Why:

Low cost is one of the key reasons. Even a processed log will cost much less than products made from other materials;
Availability of products is also an important advantage. Pillars can be bought ready-made or made by yourself;
The ease of installation of the pillars eliminates the need for lifting equipment, the process is available to any inexperienced developer;
The environmental friendliness and aesthetics of natural wood need no introduction. A log can be given any shape and any carved ornament can be sculpted on it.

What to pay attention to

Others will call these disadvantages, but we will rephrase them into features that need to be considered when choosing wooden poles for effective and long-term results:

Wood is sensitive to moisture, both from the ground and from rain, fog, and melting snow. In order for the product to retain its shape and characteristics, it is necessary to treat it with waterproofing compounds.
Protection of wooden poles from decay in the ground is ensured by applying antiseptic impregnations to the lower part of the product and its additional waterproofing.
The service life of wood is short compared to concrete and metal, but it can be extended with proper care and timely processing of the product.
Wooden supports are able to withstand only lightweight fencing structures; they are not suitable for forged and concrete structures.

How to make a pole with your own hands

Buying ready-made supports will cost much more than products of your own production. To make fence posts yourself, you will need deciduous tree trunks:

Birch;
Larch;
Hazel.

The minimum diameter of the support should be 15 mm, if possible more.

To make a pillar, you need to take a pillar of stable thickness and remove the bark from it. If desired, the surface can be leveled with a planer and make a carved pattern, give the log a shape.

After manufacturing, the product must be coated with antiseptics, which will prevent the column from getting wet and protect it from decay. A 2-layer coating will not be superfluous, special attention is paid to the ends of the support, which perceive the most significant load and are least protected from water penetration.

How to process wooden poles before digging into the ground

One coating with antiseptics is not enough to protect the underground part of the pillar. It must be treated with waterproofing compounds. Suitable for this:

Liquid molten bitumen;
Polymeric special mastic coating;
Tar;
Technical development.

For waterproofing the underground part of the column, it is precisely a liquid coating that is needed. It adheres tightly to the material and creates reliable protection. Roll wraps in this case are ineffective.

Wooden fence installation

The principle of installation of wood poles for fences is as follows:

The installation site is cleared of the fruitful layer, the rhizomes of plants are removed for the convenience of work;
They dig a hole with a garden drill of a suitable diameter or call for special equipment;
A pillow of crushed stone and sand is poured to the bottom;
Lower the support into the pit;
The soil is backfilled and compacted thoroughly.

Based on this principle, several methods for convenient installation of supports and fences are based.

Method 1. Working with finished products

The first method involves the use of finished poles as a support. It is necessary to purchase a set of cut wooden logs, treat the underground part with an antiseptic and waterproofing, and immerse the pillar in the ground in a hole prepared according to the main method.

Quick installation and no labor required to manufacture the poles saves time, but not money.

Method 2. Installing supports in the standard way

This installation method is good because it repeats the algorithm of the main plan, but has several distinctive features:

The use of geotextiles to filter water and stabilize the soil layer. By the way, this is one of the ways to dig a wooden pole into the ground so that it does not rot;
Backfilling of the pit can be done not with soil, but with rubble or large gravel. Such a support is more reliable than ground support, besides, it drains the soil from groundwater. When the soil is heaving, the column will not be forced out of the pit due to the work of large particles.

Method 3. We exclude rotting

Another way to protect wooden poles in the ground from rotting is by concreting. They replace the backfill of the soil. How to carry out the process:

The pit is prepared in the usual way: drilling, sand and gravel cushion.
The walls of the pit must be laid with 1-2 layers of roofing material. It will protect concrete from water, perform the function of formwork for mortar.
The processed log is inserted into the pit, fixed with a wire harness in a strictly vertical position.
The concrete solution is poured and compacted with a submersible vibrator.

This method of mounting wooden poles has several advantages:

The absence of contact between wood and soil eliminates the decay of the latter;
Supports significantly increase their service life compared to conventional buried ones. Heavier fences can be installed on the poles;
Such a foundation does not require maintenance; with proper observance of the device technology, the pillars practically do not change their position.

Method 4. Combined poles

This method differs from others by the participation of another component - a metal or asbestos-cement pipe. It will work as an insulator of the log from the ground, all with the same purpose - the exclusion of direct contact between the earth and wood to maintain the strength of the support. How to install:

1) A pipe with a length of at least 1 meter is buried in such a way that about 15 cm remains above the ground.
2) The soil is poured back into the pit along the outer diameter of the pipe and it is carefully compacted.
3) The log is selected so that its diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. At the base of the pillar, a cut is made 30-40 cm long, cutting out a diameter that is 5-10 mm smaller than that of the pipe. The work requires high precision and accuracy. The result is a support with a lower base narrowed to the inner diameter of the pipe.
4) The cut area is impregnated with an antiseptic or drying oil and allowed to dry.
5) After the drying oil has dried, the end of the column is covered with hot tar and brought into the pipe. If gaps remain, they are also filled with this polymer.

The connection of the pipe and the column can be carried out even before instillation, there is not much difference, it's about the convenience of implementing actions.

Additional protective measures

Treatment of wood with an antiseptic and waterproofing before deepening into the ground does not guarantee the safety of the post during its service life. A few simple tips will help increase the service life:

It is recommended to paint the aerial part of the support every 3-5 years in order to renew the peeling paint;
Antiseptics can be replaced with ordinary oil paint, which leaves no chance for microflora;
Before applying paint to the surface of the wood, it is desirable to re-prime the base. This will help create a long-lasting coating effect with additional wood impregnation.
If the pillars are not concreted, it is advisable to carry out their diagnostics every 5-7 years in order to identify the processes of decay and marriage in work. It is often cheaper to fix a malfunction than to change structural elements.
The most unprotected and water-absorbing part of the column is the top. There are a large number of wood channels on the cut, so water and moisture are intensively absorbed into them. Experts recommend purchasing special metal covers for each support. They are made in different versions, you can choose products suitable for your site or facade of the house.

The manufacture and installation of wooden fence posts is available to every developer, regardless of their experience in the construction business. It is enough to have the necessary set of tools in the arsenal and you can start assembling a wooden fence yourself.

Wood has many advantages, the main of which is its environmental friendliness. It is absolutely harmless to humans and the environment, as are forests. Moreover, many tree species, on the contrary, are even beneficial to health. Pine, for example, has a beneficial effect on the respiratory system.

Also, wood has good strength: a wooden fence can well protect the territory from uninvited guests; especially if it was made of oak or larch.

Almost all types of wood lend themselves well to processing: if desired, you can cut out a whole work of art from them. But, unfortunately, the wooden structure has one serious drawback - it is exposed to the negative effects of moisture. Wooden fencing, located in the open air, quickly becomes unusable after precipitation.

In addition, it can be adversely affected by wind and sun. The first one can be so strong that the tree cannot withstand its gusts. The second is able to deprive the wood of its original color.

It is very important to take care in time that the wooden fence is protected from negative environmental factors. There are many different ways to process wood and it is important to choose the right one, the one that guarantees the preservation of an attractive appearance for many years.

Logs that are used to make a fence need at least two different protections. One of them needs to cover the upper part - the one that is not buried in the soil. Another tool is applied to the lower part - the one that will be in the ground.

Mistakes that are made when impregnating pillars

First of all, it is necessary to understand why they become unusable. The most common cause is exposure to water. It, penetrating into the structure of the material, creates favorable conditions for the reproduction of microorganisms. And if the upper part of the column can dry out under the influence of wind or sun, then under wet ground the drying process is almost impossible.

The column begins to rot from below, becomes covered with mold, harmful insects appear there. The best way to deal with this is to treat it with antiseptic and waterproofing agents.

Very often, the causes of damage to a wooden fence are the wrong choice of building materials, violation of the rules for surface treatment. When choosing a post for a future fence, you need to pay attention to the quality of the wood. It should not be rotten, its moisture content should be less than 15%.

Before treatment with antiseptic substances, it is necessary to remove the bark from the log and dry it thoroughly. Immediately you need to decide which end of the log will be the lower and which the upper. In order to prevent the absorption of water from the soil through the capillaries, it is necessary to install the log with the butt up.

After treating the lower part with an antiseptic, you can not wrap it with roofing material. After all, if water penetrates into the gap between the log and the layer of roofing material, it will not evaporate from there.

Processing the bottom of the post

Tar

One of the ways to process the lower, underground part of a wooden support post is to coat its surface with birch tar or spruce resin. This method is the oldest and most proven.

Machine oil

It can be considered the cheapest, since no serious problems should arise when purchasing engine oil. First, the oil must be heated, and then applied in several layers. In this case, one should not forget about cracks and ends.

The mineral oil that makes up this substance is a good water-repellent antiseptic. Also, the composition of the substance includes acid salts that can destroy any fungus formed in the tree.

Bitumen

Another popular method for processing pillars is to use bitumen. First, the lower part must be fired until a charred layer several millimeters thick is formed, then bitumen is applied to the charred surface.

Usually the log is covered with two layers of bituminous impregnation. After applying the first, you must wait about 24 hours until it hardens. Then a second layer is applied. In hardware stores, you can buy special synthetic waterproofing agents designed to protect wood. They can be sold in the form of mastics, pastes, etc.

Post top processing

After the post is installed by any of the methods, it is necessary to treat its visible part with an antiseptic substance, and then also paint or varnish to improve the appearance. This part of the post also needs special protection. First of all, you need to choose the appropriate type of coverage.

There are a variety of wood preservatives available in hardware stores designed to preserve the texture of wood. If you plan to paint the fence, then for this you can choose as an ordinary oil paint.

Before applying paint, the wood must be primed. The paint layer needs to be renewed every few years. The paint is applied with a brush. It is recommended to start at the top and then gradually move down. If you do the opposite, then the paint will constantly drain onto the already painted part of the column.

You can varnish the wooden post. It will provide good protection and make the fence attractive. For the treatment of wooden fences, alkyd varnishes are mainly used, as they have good properties. But for the environment, they are not as safe as acrylic varnishes. Nitro-varnishes have good properties, but, unfortunately, they are very toxic.

Having chosen one or another varnish on a wooden surface, it must be applied according to the technology. To do this, you can use a small brush made of natural hair. First you need to brush over the surface, and then grind thoroughly. It takes about a day for the varnish to dry. After that, you can apply a second layer. Thanks to the varnish, the wood will become shiny, and at the same time it will not lose its natural color.