Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a house from a gas block. Interior wall decoration in aerated concrete house

The construction of residential buildings is carried out not only with the usual materials, such as wood or brick, but also, for example, from aerated concrete. Unlike them, such walls need interior decoration, as the material is able to absorb moisture strongly. The interior decoration of aerated concrete houses is carried out with different materials, but taking into account its nuances.

In the photo - finishing aerated concrete walls inside with plaster

Features of aerated concrete

The material is classified as cellular concrete, in which there are small pores. They are obtained by adding gas-forming agents to the main solution. ().

Of all the properties declared by the manufacturer, namely:

• reliability;
• strength;
• practicality;
• durability;
• light weight;

Of particular note is the latter, which avoids the costly construction of the foundation of the building. The material, although concrete, has good thermal insulation properties, they make it possible to maintain the required temperature throughout the building at minimal cost.

Technologically, gas silicate blocks are easy to use. For example, drilling them does not require special tools, at the same time this can be a definite disadvantage, since not all fasteners can be used.

Tip: if you want to increase the life of aerated concrete, make high-quality exterior and interior finishing of the material.

What do manufacturers of finishing materials offer?

In fact, there are more than enough offers. If you are doing an independent interior decoration of aerated concrete walls, choose the one that you can easily handle.

You can use:

• fake diamond;
• plastic lining;
• siding;
• block house;
• drywall sheets;
• plaster;
• ceramic tiles;
• natural stone and others.

Tip: the better you level the surface of the wall, the better the finish will be.

How to insulate and level an aerated concrete wall

Before finishing, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work with the surface on which it will be installed. The process consists of cleaning, warming and leveling.

Tip: since many finishing materials are attached to the crate, the insulation process can be carried out in parallel.

Manufacturers of thermal insulation for residential premises offer the following materials:

• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool in rolls and mats;
• solid mineral insulation.

Their installation can be carried out directly on the wall (polyurethane foam or polystyrene), or inserted into the cells of the crate (all). The subsequent leveling of the surface is carried out with plasterboard sheets or plaster.

How to align walls with plasterboard sheets

The material is considered universal, it is used in many finishing works.

Manufacturers offer two main types:

• wall (thickness 12 mm);
• ceiling (9 mm).

They can be moisture resistant (green) and fire resistant. It has a good heat capacity and can withstand some loads under special conditions. But, do not forget that this is, first of all, gypsum, covered on both sides with sheets of cardboard.

Tip: work with GKL sheets very carefully, they are easily cut with a clerical knife, but an accidental blow can destroy their structure.

Installation:

1. Mount a metal frame on the aerated concrete wall from profiles specially designed for drywall. They should be fixed to the ceiling and walls with dowels with self-tapping screws, while the dowel should be specially designed for this material.
2. To facilitate and increase the speed of installation of the crate, use a screwdriver.
3. Make the crate cells 500x500 mm in size so that it is convenient to insert insulation into them, the width of which is usually 600 mm.
4. Attach sheets of drywall to the frame with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. Reinforce the joints with construction tape and putty.

After that, they can be plastered or painted. Finishing a house made of aerated concrete inside with drywall does not cause difficulties, you can handle it with your own hands.

Tip: fasten sheets of plasterboard to the crate in increments of at least 400-500 mm from each self-tapping screw.

We apply plaster

This method of finishing walls from gas silicate blocks has been used for a long time. Two types of mixture are used - starting and finishing. Then on top of them you can apply decorative.

Prepare tools and materials:

• dry plaster mixtures;
• plaster mesh for reinforcing the surface;
• large and small spatula;
• building level;
• container for solution preparation;
• construction mixer;
• sandpaper.

Very often, wall insulation is carried out from the outside, since the solution should be applied directly to the walls.

1. For each plaster mortar, instructions for use are indicated on the packaging. Be sure to stick to it, then the mixture will turn out exactly the way you need it.
2. First apply a layer of starting plaster, wait until it dries, and sand it down. If one is not enough, apply it repeatedly until you achieve the desired result.
3. Apply the final layer of plaster to the dried and sanded starting layer.

After that, the surface can be wallpapered, painted or another finishing material can be used.

We use artificial stone

Today, they often began to give preference to this particular method of decoration.

Most likely, this is due to the characteristics of the finishing material:

• strength;
• practicality;
• ease of installation;
• moisture resistance;
• does not respond to temperature changes;
• does not change its size under the sun's rays;
• resembles natural stone;
• has a low weight.

Not the last role in the list is played by the lower price compared to the natural competitor. The sizes and shapes of artificial stone can be very different. , should be carried out on a flat surface, then the quality and integrity of the finish will not be violated.

Prepare for work:

• special glue solution;
• building level;
• spatula;
• container for preparing the solution.

Apply the adhesive mixture to the stone and surface. Press against the wall with a slight twist to let the air out. Remove excess solution with a spatula.

Upon completion of the finishing work, if necessary, grout the seams with honey stones with a special grout. The whole process is quite simple, so you can repeat it without even having the skills.

Conclusion

Aerated concrete differs in its structure from ordinary concrete, therefore, when installing into such a wall, special fasteners should be used. Finishing work can be carried out with different materials, with or without heaters ().

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

A building made of aerated concrete can stand without exterior finish without any damage to the integrity of the blocks (we are talking about autoclaved gas silicate). But, over time, dust settles on the surface of the blocks, and the previously white outer surface becomes an untidy gray color with streaks. So anyway, sooner or later, but the question arises about the cladding or finishing of aerated concrete outside. Inside, aerated concrete is finished almost immediately after construction: the blocks in the interior do not look very attractive.

Since aerated concrete has a very high vapor permeability, there are certain nuances when carrying out finishing work. The fact is that almost all materials conduct vapors worse than gas silicate. This causes difficulties, since in order to ensure the normal removal of water vapor from the room, the vapor permeability of the walls - from the room - to the outside, must increase. Only special plaster mixtures for foam concrete meet this requirement. But subject to certain rules, the finish can be any.

Exterior finishing of aerated concrete

First, about how you can not finish. It is impossible to insulate with foam plastic or expanded polystyrene, plaster the outside with ordinary sand-concrete plaster, paint with covering film-forming paints. As a heater, if necessary, you can use mineral wool, paint with paints that do not block the pores for moisture to escape from the wall. Now about how you can finish the facade of foam concrete.

Hinged facades: lining, siding, panels, etc.

When finishing with any materials that are mounted on a crate or guides, a gap remains between the finishing material and the wall. It is called ventilation, since in this gap, with the right device, there is an active movement of air from bottom to top. The correct device is the presence of holes in the finishing material at the bottom and top. This ensures the movement of air flow from the bottom to the top. This flow carries away moisture, which is removed from the room. Such a device solves the problem of condensate, and also maintains the normal humidity of the walls. Since aerated concrete has lower strength characteristics at high humidity, maintaining its normal humidity contributes to a longer “life”. The dependence of the strength of aerated concrete on the percentage of moisture is shown in the graph.

When outdoor finishing aerated concrete with a ventilated gap, most of the time it has a moisture content in the range of 10-15%, i.e. is in the optimal zone. To create such a gap, a crate is stuffed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, providing a distance from the wall to the exterior finish of 3-5 cm.

For the crate, a wooden beam (treated with antiseptics) is used, metal guides are galvanized profiles for drywall or special for ventilated facades. The frequency of the lathing is 40 cm. According to this principle, the aerated concrete facade is sheathed with lining, facade panels.

When fastening the crate to the wall, the question arises: with what, or rather, “on what” to fasten the crate to the gas silicate. You can just use self-tapping screws (black, they are stronger), but in order for the crate to hold well, you will need large lengths. This means that metal enters deep into the body of the block. In winter, it is an excellent cold bridge. But this is not the worst. Under wind loads, the frame vibrates, vibration, of course, is transmitted to the fasteners. Under the action of vibrations, foam concrete is crushed. As a result, the screw may fall out.

And that is not all. Due to the temperature difference - relatively warm aerated concrete and rapidly cooling metal of the self-tapping screw - condensation forms on the self-tapping screw. When the temperature drops, it freezes, destroying the body of the block. In general, just do not use self-tapping screws to attach the crate to aerated concrete from the outside.

To avoid such a situation, plastic plugs are inserted into the wall and dowel-nails are used. Ordinary ones are of little use, although better than just self-tapping screws. If you use ordinary ones, the length of the plastic cork should be at least 30 mm.

In general, it is better to mount on special ones, which are called “for aerated concrete”. There are they in specialized stores selling hardware. They may not be found in the ordinary construction market. From the usual ones, they are poured over with a large size of the plastic part, as well as more developed screw plates.

The installation method is standard. A hole is drilled under the dowel plug (plastic part). Depending on the shape of the helical surface, a plastic insert is driven into it (in the photo, the upper dowel) or screwed (lower). Then the screw is screwed in.

When using wooden bars or galvanized profiles, they are attached to such dowels. The installation step of the crate is less than usual - it is about 40 cm. This is for a more even distribution of shock loads that occur during strong winds. An example of aerated concrete sheathing with siding can be seen in the video. There are many useful nuances.

brick finish

If you lay brick on the aerated concrete facade correctly, it will stand without problems for decades. A prerequisite is that there must be a ventzaor between the wall of the finishing material and the wall of aerated concrete. Its width is at least 30 mm. In order for it to work, when laying the finishing bricks, air is left in the lower part - small holes into which air will enter. To prevent animals from getting into them, they are covered with ventilation grilles.

The principle of "work" of the system with a wall of finishing bricks spaced 3-5 cm

Only this type of finish, unlike ventilated facades, should be taken into account when calculating the foundation. Firstly, the mass of brick finishes, even half a brick, is considerable, and it must be taken into account when calculating the bearing capacity of the foundation. Secondly, the width of the finish is taken into account when determining the width of the foundation: the overhang of the brick cannot be more than 3 cm, and you also need a ventilation gap of 3 to 5 cm between the wall and the finish.

But, if you just put a brick wall at the required distance from the wall of the house, it is very likely that it will simply fall. Therefore, it is necessary to connect the walls of foam concrete and brick. To do this, even at the stage of laying foam concrete, thin plates are installed between the blocks, which are called "flexible connections". Best of all - if they are made of stainless steel. The environment in the solution in which these strips are sunk has an alkaline reaction, and in an alkaline environment, metal, even galvanized metal, quickly collapses.

Mounting plates inserted into the seams to bond with the foam concrete brick finish, but they are galvanized and after a few years the brick finish may fall off

The plates on the wall surface are placed approximately 60 cm apart in every second row, the maximum height distance between two rows is 50 cm. The plates are staggered. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcorners, window and door openings, they should be placed more often.

Sometimes, when laying, they forget about the plates. In this case, a dowel is screwed into the wall, to which a perforated metal plate or also a special stainless stud is already attached. Another option: during bricklaying, strictly opposite the seam, a hole is made in the wall into which a hairpin is hammered. The hairpin should go 10 cm into the concrete body and almost the entire width of the brick. But the hairpin is not flexible and can break both aerated concrete and brick trim (on the floor of a brick - for sure). Therefore, it is better not to suffer from such “economy”. How the aerated concrete is finished with the help of a finishing brick with a ventazor - in the video.

How to plaster aerated concrete facade

As already mentioned, plasters for aerated concrete can only be used with high vapor permeability. These plasters are expensive, but are applied in a thin layer. Therefore, a number of preparatory measures are required to obtain a smooth surface.

You can start plastering work when the humidity of aerated concrete blocks is not higher than 27%. Before starting work, the surface is treated:

• dusted with a brush;
• using a grater, the surface is leveled;
• dents and chips are sealed with glue mixed with aerated concrete dust, which was obtained when cutting blocks.

The minimum layer - up to 10 mm can not be reinforced. Due to the adhesive additives in the composition, it will adhere tightly to the surface. If the layer is 10-15 mm, it is necessary to reinforce with a fiberglass mesh, with a thickness of 15-20 mm, a metal painting mesh is required. Exterior finishing of aerated concrete with plaster of greater thickness is impractical.

The grid for outdoor work should have a cell of the order of 3 mm. It must be resistant to alkaline environments (written on the package), otherwise after a couple of months it will lose strength and stop holding the plaster. As a result, the finishing layer will fall off.

Reinforcement is carried out along the applied layer of the primer mixture. It is also used special, has excellent adhesion to foam concrete, creates the basis for applying decorative plaster. The composition is applied to the wall in a strip. Until it freezes, a mesh is rolled onto it. Using a notched trowel or float, the mesh is pressed into the solution. After it has completely submerged, they take an ordinary wide spatula and level the surface, adding mortar if necessary. The leveled surface is left to dry. The term depends on the material used and is specified by the manufacturer. The average time is 7 days.

A primer is applied to the dried surface of the reinforcing layer. It performs several functions:

• levels the absorbency of the base (reduces it);
• paints over gray (it is white);
• reduces porosity.

On a dried primer (available in the description), a finishing finish is already applied - decorative plaster. The technique of its application depends on the type of composition.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls

With normal calculation and observance of technology (laying on glue with a seam thickness of 1-2 mm), gas silicate walls do not need to be insulated. In central Russia, a block thickness of 325 mm is sufficient. If, nevertheless, a need arose, the insulation must be vapor-permeable. And this is mineral wool and foam glass. Foam glass has excellent characteristics, but a high price. Mineral wool is cheaper. The thickness of the insulation depends on how cold it is in the house, but 50 mm is usually used as a minimum.

When finishing with a crate, it is made from a wider board or profile, taking into account the fact that the thickness of the insulation is also added to the thickness of the ventilation gap. Sometimes you may need a counter-lattice. These are additional strips, which, depending on the circumstances, are stuffed along or across the first crate. Thermal insulation is attached to the wall with special plastic dowels with a wide cap in the form of a fungus.

Internal finishing of aerated concrete

Finishing aerated concrete indoors has its own characteristics. Most often, such walls are still plastered. It is possible to use the same expensive mixtures as for exterior decoration, but it is very expensive. There are ways to make walls normally using ordinary cement or gypsum plaster. But this requires additional measures: a preliminary relief is created using cheap tile adhesive. It has good adhesion (cohesion) even with a relatively flat surface of aerated concrete, creates an excellent basis for applying subsequent layers. plasters. The procedure is as follows:

On the dried glue, you can apply plaster, or you can lay tiles. She is definitely not going anywhere: she will hold on well. In wet visits - bathroom, kitchen - you can choose a film-forming primer, which reduces the vapor permeability of paints.

For information on how to properly prepare a gas silicate wall for plaster, see the video. With its help, do-it-yourself plastering of aerated concrete walls is clear: everything is painted step by step and chewed.

Interior finishing options

Almost all options are acceptable for finishing walls made of aerated concrete inside:

• Drywall or GVL on bars or profiles. There are no more difficulties with fastening: no wind loads, no frost. But, this is only if we are talking about a house of permanent residence. In a seasonal unheated cottage and inside, the installation of dowels is required.
• Lining in all its forms.
• Plastic panels.
• Painting, but on a prepared and leveled surface. And paints are still better with at least some vapor permeability. Unless in the bathroom or in the kitchen you can use film-forming compounds.

Of all these processes, only painting requires some explanation. Under this type of finish, an aerated concrete wall does not have to be plastered. In general, the walls should be almost flat. If there are chips, dents or protrusions, everything is solved very simply. They are sealed with the same glue on which the blocks were laid. If the dents are large, sawdust can be added to the glue, which are formed when cutting the block. The seams are rubbed with the same composition.

If there are protrusions, they are cut off with a special grater, but it can also be done with sandpaper fixed on a bar. These tools achieve a smooth surface that can be painted. The wall is cleaned with a brush attached to the holder - dust is swept away. The dedusted wall is primed. The primer is selected compatible with the selected paint. They must be compatible. It is advisable to apply the primer twice. Then, paint is applied on a completely dry primed surface.

Such a building material as gas silicate blocks is becoming more and more popular, due to its strength, durability, as well as relative lightness with large dimensions - building a wall takes much less time than using bricks or cinder blocks.

However, if the exterior decoration of walls made of gas silicate blocks does not cause any special problems, then the features of the interior cladding are not known to everyone. This article, illustrated with a photo, provides detailed instructions on how to make the lining of this material inside the house with your own hands.

Two main finishes

The interior decoration of the house from gas silicate blocks is divided by specialists into two main types:

• vapor permeable;
• vapor-tight.

Consider each of the options in more detail, which will allow you to choose the type that suits your case.

Vapor-permeable lining

This type of lining is more popular. But if you decide to use it, then remember that it is extremely important to choose the right materials that will be characterized by a high level of vapor permeability.

• gypsum;
• perlite sand;
• slaked lime.

It can be used even if the walls have not been treated with a primer. And given the ease of applying gypsum plaster, it should also be noted that it is also not necessary to level the walls with putty.

Vapor-tight cladding

But the creation of the so-called vapor barrier layer will not require any special frills.

In particular, there are many materials that can be used for these purposes:

• vinyl wallpapers;
• polyethylene film and many others.

However, the most effective method is the application of conventional plaster, made from two traditional components:

• sand;
• cement.

The use of such plaster will reduce the vapor permeability of the surface by about ten times!

Advice. So that in the future the layer of plaster does not peel off, it is necessary to prime the wall several times.
A new layer of primer is applied only after the previous one has dried.

Related articles:

Choosing a material for interior wall decoration

Finishing gas silicate on the outside is significantly different from the lining of this material inside the building.

Since in the latter case it is important to choose materials that will be characterized by:

• durability;
• ease of operation;
• high aesthetics.

Increasingly, so-called frame materials are used to solve the problem, which include:

• drywall;
• plastic panels;
• decorative panels, etc.

The use of the above materials will reduce the possible cost of leveling the walls. At the same time, their price is also acceptable.

The installation process of various wall finishing panels is described in detail below - after carefully reading the description, you can not only choose high-quality products yourself, but you can also install them yourself.

Note that the exterior decoration of a house made of gas silicate blocks is also a rather difficult process, but not as responsible as indoor work.

Plastic panels

Before starting work, it will be necessary to create a solid and reliable frame, under which will be located:

• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing.

Advice. When installing the crate, it is extremely important to correctly set the bars in a horizontal plane.
If you have deviations, then the whole wall will roll.

• between the upper and lower bar it is necessary to stretch several threads;
• on the threads, intermediate bars are installed;
• step between them about fifty centimeters;
• use self-tapping screws to fasten the bars.

Installation of plastic panels begins with the installation of the starting and finishing profile. Each of these profiles has certain spikes, which will subsequently enter into the grooves of the panels. Use metal staples or nails to fasten the profiles.

Advice. To ensure that you don't experience cladding deviations, it's a good idea to check each panel for how it fits flat and how level it is.

Before installing the last panel into the finish profile, you will most likely have to trim it.

Even the exterior decoration of a house made of gas silicate blocks can be done with paint, but we are talking specifically about the interior, and therefore we will consider the features of this work inside the room.

Advice. When buying paint, be careful and make sure that it is suitable for this purpose.
If you yourself do not understand paints and varnishes, consult the seller or carefully study the label on the jar.

The most suitable for these purposes is water-based paint, which is characterized by a low price, but at the same time it is easy to use, so everyone can work with it, regardless of their skills and abilities.

However, when it comes to such a process as the interior decoration of gas silicate blocks, it is necessary to remember certain tricks and features.

In particular, it should be noted two main features that must be followed in order to achieve the most effective result:

1. Conduct high-quality preparation of the walls - align them, make them as smooth as possible, for which use fine sandpaper. After sanding the walls, be sure to apply a coat of primer and let it dry.
2. You should also prepare the paint itself, for which you need to add the color to it, what shade of the walls in the house you want to get as a result.
3. It is necessary to apply water-based paint in at least two layers. Better yet, three. If you still decide that two layers will be enough, then the first should be applied in a horizontal plane, and the second in a vertical plane.

Advice!
If you decide to apply three layers, then in this case the first and third layers should be vertical, and the second layer should be horizontal.
Do not confuse!

1. Water-based paint can be applied "wet" - that is, you do not need to wait until the previous layer is completely dry. You can after the creation of the first layer, proceed to the second.

Wallpapering

Let me not talk too long about the features of this finishing material, since it is quite popular and has been used for many years, and therefore all the features of the wallpaper have long been known.

The stores have a large variety of wallpapers, among which you are guaranteed to be able to choose the one that will satisfy your needs in appearance:

• on non-woven or paper;
• vinyl;
• washable.

If we talk about the appearance of the wallpaper, then they differ in an incredible amount:

• colors and shades;
• patterns;
• invoices;
• able to imitate natural stone, wood, etc.

It should also be noted this type of this finishing material, like liquid wallpaper, although they are completely different in structure from traditional wallpaper.

Wallpapering is done on a pre-plastered surface of the blocks. You can also install foam insulation first.

Variety of coatings

And this is not a complete list of materials that can be used when facing walls from gas blocks.

Others include:

• siding;
• decorative panels;
• lining;
• wall linoleum;
• textured plaster and many others.

In conclusion

By choosing a building material for wall cladding from gas blocks, you can make your home incredibly beautiful and comfortable for living. Fortunately, today there are no problems with certain products that can be used for this purpose.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

A wide range of building materials, when choosing the prevailing in the form of aerated concrete, makes it possible to combine several types of raw materials. The facades of walls made of aerated concrete blocks can be finished with facing bricks or siding, and for internal partitions, foam concrete, aerated concrete, cellular concrete can be used, followed by finishing with a huge amount of materials on the market. When building any walls from aerated concrete blocks, the thermal insulation of the premises is significantly increased, and the interior decoration of a house made of aerated concrete rests only on the choice of suitable textures and the convenience of working with finishing building materials.

The most voluminous internal work is the plastering of aerated concrete walls. Few people know how to do this correctly on an aerated concrete surface. There are certain rules and technologies that ensure the integrity of the cycles of circulation of air masses in the house and through the walls, and plaster based on gypsum or alabaster is preferred here.

Aerated concrete is prepared by mixing high-quality Portland cement, lime and refined sand. The main component that turns an ordinary mortar into a light and porous building material is aluminum chips or powder, which causes air bubbles to appear in the working mixture. The solution poured into special forms must harden, after which the blocks are ready for use.

Advantages of aerated concrete blocks:

1. High rate of thermal insulation qualities;
2. Absolute fire resistance;
3. Good noise canceling performance;
4. Frost and moisture resistance, preventing the formation of condensate in the material and the occurrence of fungi and mold;
5. Long-term operation of the building from gas blocks;
6. Easy machining, light weight.

The above characteristics provide ample opportunities for the use of aerated concrete bricks indoors, since such blocks are easier to finish. When choosing materials for finishing interior work, pay attention to mutually exclusive points:

1. A comfortable microclimate in the house is maintained at a certain level of humidity, and it should be limited by the use of appropriate finishing materials to a level acceptable for aerated concrete surfaces;
2. The hygroscopic properties of intermediate layers of finishing materials have a significant impact on their resistance to wear. Therefore, so that excess moisture does not penetrate into the block, a layer of vapor-tight material is equipped. Such a substance is gypsum plaster, as well as wall decoration with moisture-resistant drywall, followed by plastering.

The vapor permeability of gas blocks can be reduced by almost ten times with vinyl wallpaper pasted over plaster or puttied with plaster. In addition to the commercially available dry plaster mixtures such as Knauf or ABC, walls can be finished with the usual mortar of cement and sand with stabilizing additives. But in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, bathroom or kitchen), the walls can periodically become damp and cause peeling of the plaster layer. Therefore, to improve the vapor barrier characteristics of walls, a combination of building materials is used, and it can be very diverse.

For example, an aerated concrete wall is opened with a layer of primer, after drying, two more layers are applied, and then the wall is plastered with gypsum mortar. On top of the gypsum layer, you can begin the design of the finishing (decorative) finishing layer. Materials for this are also selected "breathable". So, instead of oil paint, it is not recommended to use acrylic or water-based paint to decorate a country house inside without reducing the vapor permeability of the walls.

Preliminary work before finishing

The main rule for finishing aerated concrete walls is to start with internal walls and partitions. Exterior decoration, if necessary, can be completely excluded, or the minimum necessary operations can be carried out, but only in warm and not rainy weather.

The production cycle of aerated concrete blocks does not provide for complete drying of products, and the blocks have a moisture content of ≈ 30%. But finishing the walls of aerated concrete in the house can be carried out if the humidity of the walls reaches a threshold of 15%. Therefore, it is advisable to start internal plastering while the outer surfaces evaporate excess moisture.

Surface preparation consists of cleaning the walls of debris, dirt and excess mortar, as well as leveling large irregularities and patching potholes. Cleaned gas blocks are primed from floor to ceiling in 2-3 layers. Before the start of plastering, vertical beacons are installed - a metal perforated corner with a stiffener - after 0.7-0.8 m, along the width of the spatula or rule. The layer of plaster mortar is observed in the range of 0.4-0.8 cm. Beacons are left in the plaster, and before the finishing layer of the building mixture, a fiberglass mesh is attached to the wall, along which the walls will be plastered with CM-10, CM-11 or Ceresit.

How can you decorate aerated concrete

Decorative finishing of the external aerated concrete surface is carried out as soon as the internal finishing of the aerated concrete walls is completely dry. In addition to plastering, it can be lining, siding, plastic, artificial stone or facing bricks.

Honing is often used for interior and exterior wall finishing - surface decoration with abrasive substances using honing heads (hones). This is a completely new direction in construction, and before it was used only in the automotive industry and in the repair of engines. But for honing, the blocks must be almost perfectly laid, and the mortar joints must be of the minimum thickness, otherwise it will be necessary to apply a thick layer of plaster and wait until it is completely dry.

The choice of honing finish also includes priming the walls and installing reinforcing mesh with a thickness of ≤ 5 mm. The mesh is attached to the putty, the surface is leveled, a thin layer of plaster is applied on top with a layer of ≤ 5 mm. After 7 days, necessary for the layer to dry, a tinting layer is applied, the color of which is selected upon purchase. If it is required to apply a thick layer of plaster, then this is done in 2-3 steps, and each previous finishing layer must dry completely.

Finishing with plastic, clapboard or siding is faster than plastering or honing - decorative elements are fastened quickly and reliably to a frame mounted from metal profiles. In addition, such decorations will cost the developer less than covering the walls with several layers of plaster.

But quite often, developers do not stop at any one finishing material, but successfully combine several types of finishes. Often, finishing a house of aerated concrete blocks consists in combining artificial stone with brick trim, PVC panels and plaster. Such combinations of different building materials do not affect the thermal conductivity of the house materials or the breathability of walls and ceilings.

Tools and finishes

Combined finishing work with different materials requires the use of appropriate tools:

1. Perforator, level, hammer;
2. Tape measure, grinder, screwdriver, puncher or impact drill;
3. Plumb line and marker colored cord;
4. Metal shears or hacksaw.

Indoors, wall surfaces can be finished with or without a mounted frame. The use of a profile frame makes it possible to use drywall sheets, OSB boards or decorative panels - plastic or MDF. Before installing the frame of SD and UD profiles, a waterproofing layer is first attached to the aerated concrete wall, and a vapor barrier layer is attached on top to protect the walls from moisture saturation and increase their service life. When facing walls with sheets of gypsum board or gypsum plasterboard, it is recommended to assemble the frame from aluminum profiles in order to prevent metal corrosion. Any profiles are fastened to the wall with dowels of the “quick installation” series with control of vertical and horizontal installation. Drywall is attached to the profiles using self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

GKLV is puttied with ordinary dry mortars - they contain glue additives, so the putty holds firmly and reliably. It is possible to decorate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete, the interior decoration of which is carried out with drywall, with MDF panels attached to bars with a section of 20x20 mm. The bars themselves are attached to the gypsum plasterboard with dowels "quick installation" or on self-tapping screws.

The first bars - ceiling and floor - are leveled by a plumb line, and intermediate bars are mounted between 50-60 cm along a stretched cord. The horizontal position of the bars is checked by a level. A special profile with a groove is attached to the corners of the wall (it is sold complete with panels or separately), into which MDF panels are inserted. The panels are attached to each other with special brackets, and the last panel is inserted into the groove of the corner profile. If the walls are finished without mounting the frame (painting, wallpapering), then the walls are plastered or puttied, and after the layer has dried, they are leveled and sanded.

The primary (rough) leveling of walls made of aerated concrete blocks is done with a conventional cement-sand mortar. To make the solution layer stronger, a fiberglass or metal fine-mesh mesh is pressed into it to a depth of 2-4 mm.

After hardening and drying of the draft (starting) layer, the surface is polished with coarse sanding paper, which is attached to a special fixture with clamps. Finishing, finely dispersed coating, fills in all existing irregularities and scratches. The final touch is sanding with a fine sandpaper. This can be done manually, but it can also be mechanized - use a vibration grinder. Before wallpapering or painting, the walls are covered with a deep penetration primer.

To paint the walls, they take any paint - nitro, enamel, oil, acrylic, since the surfaces are already protected from moisture penetration. The required shades do not have to be found in stores or on the market - they can be obtained by mixing several paints with a construction mixer in a bucket or large container. The amount of paint must be prepared so that it is enough for all surfaces to be painted - taking into account the fact that some places will have to be painted over 2 or 3 times. Paint consumption is indicated on the bank, so the total volume is not difficult to calculate, and a reserve of 10-15% will give you confidence that the paint will not run out at the most inopportune moment.

The paint is applied in several layers, with a roller or a paint brush, you can not wait for the first and other layers to dry. If the paint is sufficiently liquid (this happens with water-based or acrylic paints), then it can be sprayed with a construction spray gun. Layers 1 and 3 are applied vertically, and layers 2 and 4 are applied horizontally. Such a checkerboard approach will allow you to more evenly distribute the color over the surface, and prevent gaps on the wall.

Wallpaper can also be glued to any - vinyl, non-woven, paper, fabric, etc. Instructions for working with wallpaper are indicated on the roll.

Aerated concrete houses interior decoration updated: January 12, 2017 by: Artyom

Why is interior decoration required for buildings made of aerated concrete blocks? The need for it is due to both an objective feature - the porosity of the material, and the aesthetic side of the issue. The premises in the "raw" form look unpresentable, and the tendency to moisture absorption can make life in such a house uncomfortable. To enhance the advantages of a light practical material and stop the shortcomings, experts recommend producing external and internal finishing of aerated concrete walls according to the developed technologies. The vast majority of design ideas are understandable and accessible, so many works can be done by hand.

If the finishing is carried out in a newly built structure, then the blocks must be cleaned of dust and construction residues. When repairing the secondary fund, careful removal of all old layers to the base will be required. Given the characteristics of aerated concrete, builders draw the attention of craftsmen to the fact that preference should be given to those finishing materials that promote natural air exchange and guarantee hygroscopicity.

Excellent hygienic characteristics have:

• Different types of plaster.
• Drywall, the installation of which is carried out on the crate.
• Plastic, wooden, pressed panels.

Wallpaper, paint, ceramic tiles often act as a finish on a previously equipped frame structure. Placing bricks or wood directly around the perimeter of the blocks is not welcome, since these materials have the same porous structure as aerated concrete, which contributes to their rapid wear without the use of additional insulation.

A reasonable step would be to pre-plaster the walls. Such a vapor-permeable coating will prevent the formation of condensate and will contribute to the formation of a healthy indoor climate. It is easy to work with gypsum or cement-based solutions with your own hands.

Standard operations are performed: wall defects are eliminated with the help of the starting composition, the treated surface is primed. Next, the required amount of finishing putty is applied, and soil is again used for high-quality adhesion with the subsequent finishing material. It is quite enough to use liquid wallpaper or decorative types of putty to give a presentable look to the room.

Drywall or panels are a great choice

The interior decoration of a house made of aerated concrete often involves frame structures made of plasterboard, lining, siding or other quality panels. The presence of the crate, the appearance of free space between the wall and the structure will allow organizing additional insulation, providing waterproofing, and hiding communications. There is no need for contact wall alignment. Do-it-yourself installation of such materials is carried out quickly, only elementary skills are required.

The crate is recommended to be installed along the wall blocks in increments of 500 by 500 mm. For dry rooms, the classic type of drywall is considered optimal, a moisture-resistant version is installed in bathrooms and kitchens, and a fire-resistant or combined one is suitable for finishing problematic rooms - for example, a boiler room, a laundry room. For walls, they take the type of material with a thickness of 12 mm, and for the ceiling - 9.

When installing drywall or other wall panels, a frame will be required, which is increasingly a prefabricated structure made of lightweight metal profiles. But some adherents of naturalism prefer a crate of wooden slats. The guides are placed perpendicular to the lamellas, set using a plumb line and level. A waterproofing layer and a heater will fit into the resulting gap.

Painting, wallpaper or tile: what is better and in what cases?

Painting today has acquired a slightly different meaning: a lot of breathable water-based paints have appeared. Bright shades will allow you to create unique combinations, and the ease of coating a primed layer of finishing plaster or prepared drywall will please many consumers.

It will cost a little more to cover the walls with a silicone compound. But its advantages complement the properties of porous blocks of aerated concrete. Excellent vapor permeability will allow excess moisture to evaporate without creating a "greenhouse" effect and eliminating the formation of condensate.

Before painting, the plastered walls are carefully leveled: you will need a grinder or a sheet of sandpaper. Minor defects on drywall are masked with starting putty. When painting with your own hands, you will need several layers perpendicular to each other: the first time the wall is painted vertically, the second - horizontally, and so on. For any base (putty, drywall), priming is required.

Ceramic tiles in houses from such blocks should be used minimally. This material, combined with the moisture absorption of aerated concrete, can disappoint consumers. Therefore, the tile is appropriate as a zonal finish - for example, an apron in the kitchen, and it is laid on a flat surface. As an option for partial interior decoration, natural stone can be considered, and the scope of gypsum imitations is practically unlimited.

Hygroscopic wallpapers will also allow you to create indoor comfort in block houses. Their choice depends on the initial budget and the planned features of the interior.

In general, the interior decoration of aerated concrete walls involves a combination of different finishing materials, combines the best properties of vapor-permeable and vapor-permeable compositions.