Veranda in the country with their own hands. Adding a veranda to a wooden house with your own hands Attaching the veranda to the wall of the house

The opportunity to be at home and at the same time on the street, enjoy the surrounding nature and not get wet in the rain, sunbathe and barbecue, arrange a winter garden, relax with the whole family - all these desires become feasible thanks to the ancient invention of architects, which is still popular today. Even to the finished house, you can attach a terrace with your own hands without spending a lot of money.

What is a terrace, its types

A platform near a house or in a garden, equipped for a comfortable stay, as a rule, adjacent to one of the walls of the house, traditionally raised above ground level, with flooring and a canopy - this is the standard definition of a terrace. In fact, there are many types of terraces. To choose the right option for your site, you should understand the differences and intricacies of different types of these sites.

Type

The division into main groups is done according to the design features and the degree of openness, as well as the location on the site. The choice of site type is influenced by the purpose and environmental conditions, for example, strong winds or the presence of a reservoir.

open

For a mild climate and if you want to relax in the fresh air, the outdoor terrace is perfect. It is made without walls and a roof, which allows you to enjoy the closeness of nature. For privacy on such a site, you can place tall plants or decorative elements, make a glass fence, mount balusters and railings.

The sun's rays and precipitation will fall on furniture and other interior elements, so it is better to choose sofas and armchairs from a material that is not damaged by water and does not fade.

For the winter, it is better to clean interior items in the house

semi-open

Today is a sunny day and I want an open area, and in the evening it will rain and get colder. In this case, a good solution would be a compromise between a covered veranda protected from all sides and a terrace open to the sun and fresh air. Semi-open options are without a roof, but surrounded by walls and with a canopy in combination with a different number of walls and partitions, columns.

The most advanced version of such a private recreation area is a structure with sliding glass or plastic walls and a canopy. When conditions change, you can close the shutters and find yourself in a room completely protected from the weather.

If you want to isolate yourself from immodest looks, then you can use curtains and curtains, put pots with indoor plants, hang flower pots, plant a hedge around

Closed

If the weather conditions in the region are difficult and often change, then the best solution would be to build a covered terrace where you can relax and enjoy the countryside landscape even in winter. This is a whole room with walls and ceiling, a canopy or roof, it can be heated and has a separate entrance from the street or from the house.

Winter gardens are often arranged in a closed terrace, and in order to make the site more open in summer, sliding frames and walls are installed.

By location

The terrace can be located in the depths of the garden, by the pond or pool, adjacent to the house. Depending on the location, recreation areas have their own design features and nuances of decoration and lighting.

Ground

A beautiful area in the garden can be arranged directly on the ground, having carried out preparatory work to strengthen and level the base for the terrace. A light canopy will shade and create privacy, wicker furniture will provide comfort, and garden plants and flowers around will give aroma and merging with nature.

To protect the terrace from the wind, you can install light partitions

Benefits of ground construction:

• ease and speed of construction;
• minimum financial costs;
• open space and closeness to nature.

Among the minuses can be noted:

• exposure to bad weather, the possibility of flooding;
• the need to treat materials with antiseptics;
• not recommended for unstable and complex soils;
• need a level ground.

Ground

These floorings are slightly raised above the ground, they are mounted on logs or a concrete base. The finishing material for flooring is traditionally decking, which looks great and does not rot, has no splinters, is safe and pleasant to walk barefoot.

Advantages of ground sites:

• can be both open and closed or combined;
• small financial costs;
• the flooring protects from water and dust;
• great opportunities for design and decoration;
• does not require fencing due to its low height.

There are also relative disadvantages:

• the need to equip the foundation;
• wooden parts require special processing.

The decking of the terrace should be 5 cm below the level of the threshold of the house so that melting snow and rain do not get into the room

Exalted

Such terraces are raised above ground level to a height of half a meter, have steps, fences or walls, partitions. This is the best solution for difficult terrain and sloping sites, houses with a high basement and porch, if you want to build a multi-level zone for a comfortable stay. The advantages of this terrace are:

• the possibility of useful use of space with a slope or height differences;
• the possibility of building multi-stage complex structures.

overhanging

If there is a natural reservoir, a pool or a pond near the estate, then the construction of an overhanging terrace would be a good solution. It is also recommended for difficult terrain and a large slope near the house. Overhanging structures are very popular in mountain resort areas and estates with beautiful views. Advantages of an overhanging terrace:

• allows you to enjoy the proximity of water;
• the possibility of useful use of areas with difficult terrain;
• stunning view, the site seems to be floating in the air.

The disadvantages of the overhanging structure are the complexity of construction and the significant cost of the estimate, the need for fencing for safe rest

What can be built from

Various materials are used for the construction, the choice depends on the purpose and the presence of walls and roofs. For heavy structural elements, a stronger frame and a solid foundation will be required. On the market you can find special weather-resistant and expensive materials for outdoor use, and with a limited budget, use improvised and cheap ones.

Base and floor

For light open ground and soil galleries, it is enough to make a gravel-sand cushion. During its construction, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction and sand are used, and geotextiles are laid between these layers. The geotextile will prevent sand from mixing with crushed stone and subsidence of the base, as well as strengthen and level the soil and prevent weeds from germinating on the terrace.

More solid wooden platforms are traditionally built on a base of metal screw piles, concrete supports, screeds and bottom trim made of wooden beams and logs.

For closed massive structures with a roof, the following types of foundation are suitable:

• tape;
• pile;
• screw.

A tape and pile view is made of M-300 grade concrete, sand, water and a plasticizer, which is liquid soap. Reinforcement is carried out using a rod, metal mesh or improvised materials. When installing the formwork, you will need boards and bars for props, and the installation of piles involves the use of roofing material with fixed formwork and waterproofing.

The screw foundation is mounted from steel piles with blades at the bottom

The floor of the dirt terrace is not laid at all, furniture is arranged and enjoy the rest in good weather. You can lay out the site:

• paving slabs;
• tiled stone;
• sprinkle with small sea pebbles of different colors.

A strapping is mounted on top of any foundation and logs are laid from a bar measuring 50x150 mm, an aluminum profile or a WPC for decking.

It is recommended to finish the flooring with a terrace board specially invented for the street. It looks neat and imitates natural wood of valuable and expensive varieties, has a rich palette of textures and shades, and provides ample opportunities for stylish design of the recreation area.

To fasten the deck board, you need to take galvanized or steel nails.

The advantages of this material:

• does not rot, does not fade, does not burn;
• does not deform under the influence of water and heat: does not warp or swell;
• the service life is at least 30 years;
• absolutely environmentally friendly and safe, it is pleasant to walk on it barefoot;
• affordable price, ease of installation;
• can be washed and cleaned with detergents.

Ordinary floor board is also used for flooring. Wood is inexpensive, this is its plus, but there are also disadvantages:

• under the influence of moisture, fungus and mold form on it, insects start, dark spots appear, then the wood is destroyed;
• boards are deformed from water, and dry out from dry air;
• fire hazard.

To make it last longer, you should treat the board with antiseptic impregnation and cover it with several layers of weather-resistant or yacht varnish, and also choose rocks that are resistant to outdoor conditions, for example, larch.

Clinker or ceramic tiles for outdoor work, natural stone look great on the terrace. It is advisable to choose unglazed and non-slip coating options. Stamped concrete is an innovative material consisting of monolithic concrete, printed with polyurethane molds to form various textures on its surface.

Stamped concrete imitates wood, stone, pavers, ceramics

frame

The frame is the basis for the roof and future walls of the closed terrace, it carries the main weight load, therefore, for the strength of the frame, either a thick wooden beam or a metal profile is chosen. For lightweight sites, metal-plastic structures can be used.

Processing of wooden parts is carried out with fungicidal impregnation and varnish or paint for outdoor use

The standard size of the timber for the support posts is 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm, from the species you should choose larch or oak, coniferous. Aspen, birch or beech are not suitable for building a frame, as they are quickly destroyed by water. The support posts are reinforced with braces, which reduce the load on the supports and give the structure additional rigidity and stability. For these works, a bar with dimensions of 50x100 mm is taken.

canopy

Often a lightweight canopy is made on the terrace. It can be made of tarpaulin or other waterproof fabric, polycarbonate, wood, glass. The canopy is mounted even or with slopes, semicircular shape, complex configuration. During the construction of massive verandas, you will need support posts 150x150 mm, a truss system made of wood or metal and rolled waterproofing, as well as roofing material.

Soft roofing requires a continuous sheathing, it is used for domed roofs and tents

Polycarbonate is suitable as a roofing material. It is light, transparent, tolerates low temperatures well, can take a curved shape. Decking is inexpensive and easy to install.

Partitions

For a semi-open and closed area, it is necessary to install partitions and walls that will create privacy and protect from bad weather. Most often they are made of wood, they are solid and carved, in the form of lattices or low. With the help of partitions, the site is zoned into several corners with different purposes, for example, a summer kitchen and a dining area are separated from a recreation area.

Covered terraces look great with full-height glass walls that are equipped with sliding mechanisms to open on a fine day

How to make a terrace with your own hands

Building a terrace with your own hands will not take much time and is quite within the power of even a novice master.

Drawings and projects

If the main building has already been built and the terrace was not included in the project initially, you can design it later by drawing a detailed plan indicating all sizes and location on the site.

The owners of ready-made terraces post projects of their creations for general use on the Internet

If the terrace is attached to the house, then the length of the area adjoining the house is taken as the length

The floor area is determined by multiplying the length by the width. For example, for a terrace with dimensions of 3x4 m, the area will be 12 m². Layout and construction rules:

1. Decking consumption for finishing should be increased by 15%, making a reserve for waste. We round up 13.8 m² to 14 and get the consumption of decking or other finishing material.
2. The consumption of fasteners per 1 m² will be 22 clips and 4 starting fasteners per 1 linear meter. m. Each fastener has a hole for a self-tapping screw. Thus, for 12 m², you need to take 240 clips and 24 starting, 264 self-tapping screws.
3. Along the perimeter of the finished flooring, the ends of the boards are closed with an end tape or a corner. The perimeter is 14 m.
4. For the base, you will need 3 main beams of 3 m each, logs that are laid in increments of 35 cm, for 1 m² you will need to take 3 running meters of log. The standard log length from the manufacturer is 4 m. With an area of ​​​​12 m², you will need to buy 9 logs of 4 m in length. In addition, crushed stone, sand, concrete supports are required.
5. Concrete pillars are dug in or poured to a depth of 40 to 60 cm every 1.5 m. The size of the supports is 40x40 cm, 9 supports are needed.
6. The height of the terrace should be slightly less than the height of the first floor of the main building in order to be able to slope under the canopy. With a house height of 3 m, the height of the terrace will be 2.5 m.
7. We count the support posts of the frame on the support blocks along the perimeter of the site, we get 8 racks of 2.5 m each. 16 m of timber 50x100 mm will go to the braces on both sides of each rack.
8. Shed roofs cover spans up to 4.5 m, with a longer length it is necessary to reinforce the structure with girders and rafter legs. The step between the rafters from the boards should be 60–120 cm, from the timber 100–175 cm, from the thick timber 150–200 cm. With a step of 80 cm, you will need 5 rafters 3.5 m long and 50x200 mm in size, waterproofing 12m² plus a margin for an overhanging visor, a total of 14 m².
9. For the crate, boards of 25x100 mm are needed. Roofing material must be taken with a margin for the visor, which will be 14 m².

Wooden with a canopy

The project has been selected, the drawing is there, now you can start construction work. Consider, for example, all the stages of installing a wooden terrace with a canopy, one of the most affordable and popular options.

For construction, the following tools and consumables should be prepared:

• tape measure, level, pencil, ruler;
• shovel, hammer, hacksaw;
• sand, gravel, water;
• fasteners, screwdriver, drill with nozzles;
• timber, waterproofing, roofing material, boards;
• decking and accessories to it;
• antiseptic impregnation, varnish or paint for outdoor use.

Substrate and floor preparation

Stages of preparatory work:

1. The site is marked out according to the scheme, the perimeter is outlined, the places of the supporting blocks are marked. The top fertile soil layer is removed. Stones and debris are removed. Pits are dug under the supporting blocks, sand and gravel are poured to the bottom.

   The layer of gravel and sand in the pit should be 10 cm

2. Ready-made supports are installed on the pillow, they should protrude 15 cm above the surface to ventilate the flooring. For waterproofing, they are coated with bituminous mortar and wrapped with roofing material. You can make a fixed formwork from roofing felt and pour concrete pillars. The support bar is mounted horizontally to the wall of the house 5 cm below the floor level.

   The beam is fixed with anchor bolts every 60 cm

3. Beams are installed and fixed on the supports with reinforcement and fasteners, all junctions are waterproofed, logs are placed on top, attached to the support beam and beams, the strapping is knocked down.
4. A terraced or ordinary floorboard is laid and fastened across the log.

   The ends of the terrace board are closed with corners

5. The floorboard is polished and impregnated with stain and antiseptic, varnished in several layers.

Frame erection

canopy

For a wooden terrace attached to the house, the best solution would be a shed roof with a slope of 5-10º. Installation includes the following steps:

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate has flexibility, transparency and lightness, is available in various shades, and is durable. Due to these qualities, it is often used for terrace construction, where it is an excellent alternative to wood and metal.

Polycarbonate is easily and quickly mounted by hand

Necessary materials and tools

To work, the master will need:

• shovel, tape measure, level;
• crushed stone, sand, concrete M-300, water;
• wood or metal for the frame: profile pipe 80x80 for the main racks, 40x20 for the truss, embedded parts for the base;
• polycarbonate transparent or matte;
• welding machine;
• fasteners: bolts, nuts, hardware;
• drill, screwdriver, circular saw, construction knife.

Substrate and floor preparation

For lightweight polycarbonate, a metal frame and a columnar base are sufficient. Installation is carried out as follows:

Frame erection

Stages of work:

Canopy and walls

If the terrace is planned to be open, then it is enough to make a fence to the desired height. For a semi-open and closed recreation area, walls, partitions and a canopy are mounted. Work order:

Video: building a wooden terrace

Photo gallery: arrangement and decor of the terrace

It is beneficial to expand the usable space and equip a recreation area near the house with your own hands is easy and inexpensive. The result is a comfortable living room or dining room in the fresh air, in which the whole family will be happy to spend fine summer days.

This is an extension to the house that allows you to admire nature, while at the same time being in the comfort of home. It can be made of brick or wood, and we offer you the most elegant and least time-consuming option - a veranda made of.

Location

First of all, it is necessary to develop a construction project, and for this you need to clearly understand why you need it, what kind of veranda you want, what kind of view you will observe from it. The veranda can be used as a hall, dining room, make it a winter garden, living room.

• on the corner;
• from the end;
• from the front of the house.

It is most convenient to choose for the construction of the veranda the place where there is an entrance door to the house, so you can get into the veranda directly from the house. However, if your flight of fancy is not limited to such stereotypes, if you wish and have tools, you can make an additional doorway. Anyway, the entrance to the veranda can only be from the street, but then it will be more like. Another option is that it will be possible to get to the veranda only from the house, the entrance from the street is not provided.
If making another doorway is not a problem for you, keep in mind that a good place for a veranda will be from the western or eastern wall of the house, then it will be well lit and at the same time protected from the summer heat. Some even build a wraparound veranda around the perimeter of the entire house.

Important! Do not place the entrance to the veranda opposite the entrance to the house-because of this, there will always be a draft on the veranda.

Next, you need to decide on the size. Verandas look good along the entire length of the wall of the house, but you can build smaller ones. But it’s not worth building verandas protruding beyond the length of the wall of the house - they look too heavy.

The most common shape for such an extension is rectangular, but it can also be in the form of a polygon or circle.
The veranda can be open (without walls) and closed. If you put sliding panels, then the closed building will easily turn into an open one if necessary.

Project drawings must be submitted for approval to the relevant authorities, and the construction of the veranda (even with your own hands) must be legalized, otherwise problems may arise in the process of selling the house or transferring it in some other way.

List of materials and tools

To build a veranda, you will need the following tools:

• bucket;
• concrete mixer or tub;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• level and water level;
• cord to align the posts;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• drill of the appropriate diameter;
• perforator;
• electric saw;
• electric planer;
• jigsaw;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• square.

You will also need the following materials:

• concrete (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel);
• brick, metal posts or bars;
• boards and nails for formwork;
• water;
• waterproofing on;
• bars 100x100 mm;
• floor board 30x100 mm;
• aluminum or polycarbonate profile;
• self-tapping screws and special self-tapping screws for polycarbonate;
• nails 100 mm, nails with a small head;
• staples;
• metal corners;
• anchor bolts;
• dowel;
• rails 30 mm;
• wooden lining;
• plinth;
• vapor barrier;
• aluminum adhesive tape;
• insulation.

The veranda differs from the terrace by the presence

If you attach a do-it-yourself porch made of polycarbonate, then since this is a fairly light material, the foundation can be poured using the columnar method. However, the final choice of the method of pouring the foundation depends on the condition of the soil (frozen, swampy).

If you want a small extension, then the number of posts will be 4 pieces (1 in each corner). If you conceived a large veranda, the columns must be set every 50 cm.
Step-by-step instructions for pouring the foundation of the veranda with your own hands are as follows:

1. Dismantle the porch and the canopy above it.
2. Collect all trash.
3. Remove the top layer of earth (15 cm).
4. Mark the places for the columns.
5. Dig holes under the posts with a depth equal to the depth of the foundation of the house.
6. Pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the pit, and 10 cm of crushed stone or gravel on top of it.
7. From wooden boards build formwork of the appropriate height.
8. Pour concrete to ground level or to the entire required height of the foundation.
9. If you chose asbestos, metal or wooden posts, then before pouring concrete, you need to insert these posts, covering them with solutions to protect metal or wood.
10. Allow the concrete to dry well, periodically watering it with water if the weather is hot outside.
11. Take out the formwork.
12. Fill the distance between the concrete and the ground with sand or fine gravel.
13. If you chose brick columns, then lay out the brick to the required height.
14. Align the height of all columns, taking into account that the floors in the house must be 30 cm higher than in the extension, otherwise its roof will not fit under the roof of the house (relevant for one-story mansions).

frame

We will consider the process of mounting the frame for the veranda with our own hands step by step:

1. Carry out waterproofing of the foundation with the help of roofing material or bitumen, spreading it over the entire foundation.
2. Insert into the anchor posts, having previously drilled a hole.
3. Mark the first outside corner of the veranda by driving in a nail.
4. Starting from the first nail, outline all 4 corners of the building, carefully measuring the right angle (90 °).
5. Run the lower strapping (first layer), laying out the prepared bars 100x100 mm and joining them at the corners using the “half-tree” method (when half the bar is cut at the ends of the two bars using an electric planer). If the bars are not connected at the corner, the bars can simply be joined to each other.
6. Between the bars it is better to lay a heater.
7. Fasten the connections with metal corners or staples.
8. Check with the help of a water level how evenly the strapping is done.
9. Check with a square to see if the corners are warped.
10. Fasten the strapping to the foundation with anchor bolts.
11. Again, check with a water level and square to see if the strapping is warped.
12. Cut holes for racks. The optimal distance is 50 cm, you need to consider the placement of windows and doors.
13. Install the racks by attaching them to the bottom trim with brackets. Racks must be cut strictly vertically, this is easy to check with a level.
14. Before installing the upper trim, so that the racks do not warp, install temporary spacers - they nail the rails between the racks.
15. In the bars for the upper trim, cut holes for the racks.
16. Using staples, attach the top trim to the uprights.
17. Remove spacers.

Since we will use polycarbonate as the material for the walls, it is permissible to install aluminum or polycarbonate profiles instead of wooden racks, then the veranda can be given a rounded shape.

Roof

The roof of the veranda can be:

• lean-to if the extension is attached to the house with a wide part;
• gable when the veranda is attached perpendicular to the house.

Polycarbonate coating allows you to make the extension lighter and visually more voluminous. This material withstands impacts, severe frosts and extreme heat, it is light, it can be bent, drilled, cut, it does not let in sounds and heat. At your request, you can choose a colored or matte material, honeycomb (there will be a translucent roof) or monolithic (it looks no different from glass).
In order to cover the veranda, you must follow the following procedure:

1. Make markings with a level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
2. Attach the beam to the wall with anchor bolts.
3. Make grooves for the rafters in the timber and in the upper trim.
4. Install the rafters in a “half-tree” way from the wall to the upper trim so that they protrude beyond the trim (otherwise the rain will flow right down the walls of the veranda). The distance between the centers of the rafters is maintained at 101 cm. The angle between the rafters and the wall, between the rafters and the top trim must be straight.
5. Attach the rafters with metal staples, corners, nails.
6. Make a frame using aluminum or polycarbonate profiles, screwing it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
7. Attach polycarbonate sheets with screws or fixing profiles.

Important! In order for water to drain, the timber should be placed above the upper trim of the frame, making an angle of about 40° , but not less than 25° .

If the roof for the veranda is conceived in the form of an arch, aluminum or polycarbonate profiles can be used instead of wooden beams. Despite the fact that polycarbonate is a fairly convenient material for work, some nuances must be observed during its installation:

1. Do not remove the protective film until the end of installation, so as not to deform.
2. If an aluminum profile is used, then the edges of the polycarbonate must be sealed with a special aluminum adhesive tape.
3. Self-tapping screws must be specially designed to work with polycarbonate, they have a special gasket that does not allow the material to deform.
4. The grooves for self-tapping screws must be drilled a little wider, since polycarbonate can narrow or expand with temperature changes.
5. For the same reason, you can not screw the self-tapping screw too tightly.
6. Empty channels inside the polycarbonate should be parallel to the roof slope.
7. For cutting sheets, it is better to use an electric jigsaw.

Important! Don't rush or take too long when cutting polycarbonate sheets-from the high speed of the jigsaw, they can melt, and from too low-burst.

Floors and walls

Floors are best made of wood, using special boards 30x100 mm. The laying of the floor occurs in this order:

1. Soak the boards indoors for a day.
2. Make markings using a water level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
3. Attach the beam to the wall of the house with anchors.
4. Check with a water level that there are no distortions between the timber and the lower trim.
5. Set the logs (base bars under the floor) perpendicular to how you will lay the floor boards, maintaining a distance of up to 1 m.
6. Check the correct installation using a water level.
7. Attach the logs using staples, corners, nails.
8. Check the water level for distortion.
9. Lay out the insulating layer.
10. Install the floorboard, attaching it with self-tapping screws 2 times the width of the board.
11. If necessary, the boards must be sanded.
12. Treat the boards with special solutions.
13. Cover with varnish or paint.

Did you know? To make the floor warmer, you can attach a subfloor before installing the lags, drill the logs to the subfloor, and lay insulation between the lags. A finishing floor is laid on top of the insulation.

You can also make a concrete floor and install on it.

To build polycarbonate walls on the veranda with your own hands, follow this sequence:

1. If desired, an aluminum or polycarbonate profile can be attached to the wooden racks.
2. Prepare polycarbonate sheets, if necessary, cut with a jigsaw.
3. Glue the edges of the sheets with a special aluminum tape.
4. Starting from the left edge, attach the polycarbonate sheets to the posts with special screws so that the empty channels inside the sheet are perpendicular to the floor.
5. Attach a special profile at the junction of the sheets.

If you plan to combine an open and closed veranda, then you can install sliding walls on special rails for wardrobes.

Interior decoration of the veranda

To maintain harmony in the decoration, in combination with a wooden floor, it is better to decorate the wall of the house with wood. If the house is wooden, then additional finishing is not required, if not, boards or wooden lining can be used for finishing. The sequence of actions when laying the lining is as follows:

1. Keep the lining for 1 day indoors.
2. Drill holes for dowels.
3. Using dowels, vertically install slats 30 mm wide every 1 m.
4. Use a level to check for distortion.
5. Attach the vapor barrier (polyethylene film, foil, roofing felt) to the rails with screws.
6. Attach the horizontal rails to the vertical rails with self-tapping screws. The bottom rail should be 5 cm above the floor, and the top rail should be 5 cm below the top trim. At the same distance, it is necessary to place slats around windows and doors.
7. Check the installation with a water level.
8. Nail the first strip of lining with nails with a small hat to the rail. If you want to lay the lining perpendicular to the floor, then the first strip is nailed near the corner, if parallel, then at the top.
9. Use a spirit level to check the setting.
10. Next, nail the remaining strips, checking after each that there are no distortions.
11. Complete the installation by installing the plinth.

Important! You need to nail the lining in the place where the connecting strip begins, further from the edge, driving in nails at an oblique angle.

Windows and doors

If the walls of the veranda are built of wood or brick, then you can insert monolithic polycarbonate windows that will move apart. For this:

1. At the top of the window, attach with screws a guide along which the window will move. Doors in wardrobes move along such guides.
2. The guide can also be screwed at the bottom of the window, then the window fastening will be more rigid.
3. Cut the polycarbonate sheet to the required dimensions.
4. Attach special rollers to the sheet that will provide mobility.
5. Insert the structure into the guides.

Did you know? Glass windows are only 20% more transparent than polycarbonate windows, but polycarbonate is 20 times stronger than glass.

Polycarbonate sliding doors are mounted in the same way. Using the same technology, you can make a fully sliding wall by screwing the guide to the top trim.

Depending on the type of guide, windows and doors can open in one direction, in both directions, or fold like an accordion.

Having built a polycarbonate veranda with your own hands, you will not only give a more noble look to your home, but you will also be able to enjoy the sunrise or sunset, drops of falling rain, landscapes, with a cup of coffee or tea in your hand, without suffering from unpleasant weather moments and saving on payment labor of workers.

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A house outside the city is the place where you can have a good rest from everyday worries and relax. Therefore, each owner of a suburban area is trying to make it as comfortable and beautiful as possible. Creating a veranda is one of the most popular ways to ennoble a site. This building favorably expands the residential area, and with the right approach to building a veranda with your own hands, you can not heat it and spend time at any time of the year.

What is a veranda

This is a closed or open terrace, which is located along the facade of a residential building. This room was built into the house initially or added later. As a rule, it is not heated. It can have glazed windows and doors (veranda) or do without them (terrace). The design of the veranda should match the general appearance of the house and be in the same style with it. For example, it is possible to build a brick veranda for a wooden house, but it will be ugly. It is better to make it out of wood too. The roof is usually made single-sided for the veranda, using the same roofing material as for the roof of the house.

One of the defining moments of the overall appearance of the terrace is the location and shape of windows and doors. The shape and patterns of the bindings of window and door openings will help you make your extension original and beautiful.

Photo: room options from various materials

Cozy veranda Simple open veranda under construction
Spacious bright veranda Outdoor terrace Veranda with equipped lounge View of the veranda from the street

Modern verandas are rooms that have not been cluttered with work clothes and household supplies for a long time. Now these are full-fledged premises and extensions of a residential building, the arrangement of which is approached with all seriousness and responsibility.

Design is the most important stage in the construction of any structure, including the veranda. At this stage, you need to create a sketch, which will depict a general view of the structure by hand, and a detailed project drawing, indicating all the measurements and necessary materials for construction. The more detailed the project is, the easier it will be to build later. After all, you will know in advance how long, for example, a board you need for a particular element, as well as how many such boards you need. The project will help you calculate the amount of material and the approximate cost of building a veranda.

There are many projects for building an open veranda

If you do not have drawing skills, then you can peep the project in open sources or order an individual one from specialists.

How to make a foundation

To build a veranda, it is enough to erect a columnar or tape base, the depth of which will be equal to the depth of the base of the house. Experts do not recommend connecting the main foundation with the base of the extension due to differences in weight. They will not shrink in the same way and this can lead to deformations of the extension. Leave a gap of 30–40 mm between these two bases.

The choice of the right type of foundation depends on what material the extension will be made of and on the characteristics of the soil. For example, for the construction of heavy brick outbuildings, it is better to make a strip foundation, and for wooden lungs, a columnar base is enough.

Tape base: step by step instructions for building

The dimensions of the foundation for the extension should be the same as the dimensions of the base of the house.

In order for the foundation to be strong, it needs to be “watered” at first. Especially on hot days. Moisten it with water and cover with plastic wrap. Yes, it won't crack.

columnar base

For light timber or polycarbonate verandas, the construction of a columnar foundation is ideal. The recommended depth of pits for poles is 800–1100 mm. For a small veranda (3x4 meters), it will be enough to install supporting structures only in the corners. But for greater reliability, it is better to play it safe and make intermediate pillars. The distance between the supports should ideally be 80–100 centimeters.

The parameters of the pillars must be carefully calculated

1. Dig holes for support structures. Using a drill will greatly facilitate the task.
2. Make a sand and gravel pillow for the pillars. Sand with a layer of 150-200 mm, and crushed stone 100 mm. Pack each layer well.
3. Make a wooden formwork and lay a reinforcing network.
4. Pour the concrete to the full depth of the pit and let it harden.
5. After hardening, coat the concrete structures with bitumen.
6. Remove the formwork and cover all cracks with sand.
7. The ground part of the foundation is made of bricks. The height of their construction should be equal to the height of the base of the house.

Draft floor

It is better to proceed with the construction of the subfloor immediately after the construction of the foundation, having previously waterproofed the base with roofing material in 2 layers.

The floor can be made of wood and concrete. The first option is better suited for a wooden frame veranda, the second for a massive brick one.

How to build a wooden

Subfloor device

1. Fix the lower trim to the base with anchors. The strapping elements are connected to each other with the help of galvanized nails.
2. Attach wooden floor logs to the strapping bars at a distance of 500 mm from each other.
3. Fill the space between them with expanded clay.
4. Using an uncut board or plywood about 5 cm thick, build a deck that is attached to the floor joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

Create a concrete

1. Fill the base with sand, the layer of which should be 100 mm.
2. Then comes a layer of expanded clay.
3. Lay a reinforcing net, the bars of which are 6-8 mm, and the cells are 250x250 mm.
4. Pour the concrete mixture.
5. The thickness of the floor screed should be 3-5 cm.

It is important that the concrete surface is perfectly flat. Use the building level to control this during work.

Wooden veranda: project and incarnation

Option for a light wooden veranda

Wood is the most popular and ancient building material. This material does not give up its positions even with the advent of new species.

In principle, building a veranda based on a wooden frame is a simple process. Almost anyone can do this job. Having correctly mounted the frame racks and protecting them with shields or clapboard, a good veranda comes out.

Wood is an environmentally friendly raw material, with a beautiful appearance. It does not have a lot of weight, which greatly facilitates the work in the fundamental part of the building.

But, it is a combustible material. Therefore, sources of fire, such as a barbecue, must be located at a safe distance from such a structure.

In addition, wooden structures need additional treatment with antiseptics, because the external environment and weather conditions do not work very well on this material.

For the construction of the frame of the veranda, use only high-quality wooden beams, the cross section of which is 10x10 centimeters.

1. Make grooves in the bars of the lower trim, where vertical supports will be installed in increments of 0.5 meters.
2. Install the supports by fastening them with staples and screws or nails.

   Mounting options for uprights

3. In order to make a shed roof, vertical bars must be made of different heights. This means that where the bottom of the roof will be, the timber should be 500 mm below the place where the top of the roof will be.
4. Build the top trim from a beam with a slope for a pitched roof.
5. After you have made the top harness, you can install the rafters for the roof. Make an additional girder near the roof slope, attaching it to all supports with anchor bolts. If the roof is supposed to be heavy, then it is better to add transverse boards to the timber strapping. And attach racks and subcoms to them. Thus, the truss system will be reliable for any type of roof.
6. Rafters are mounted at a distance of 500 mm. For them, a bar with a section of 10x20 cm is used.
7. The next step is framing the frame. Inside you can use lining, outside siding. Between them you need to put waterproofing and heat-insulating materials. Don't forget window and door openings.

   Wooden frame sheathing

How to attach brick or foam blocks

Beautiful brick porch

This is already a major building. If you do the work according to the rules, then in such a building it will be comfortable at any time of the year. In the summer heat it will be cool there, and in the cold of winter it will be warm. The brick veranda is distinguished by its durability, fire safety and unpretentiousness in care.

But it also has a drawback. Namely, heaviness. Therefore, its construction requires a strong foundation.

When the foundation and subfloor are ready, laying can begin. Spoon masonry is distinguished, in which the total thickness of the walls is 12 cm; bonded masonry, with walls of 25 cm and chain masonry, with walls of 38 cm.

If year-round use of the veranda is expected, then 2 rows of masonry can be made and waterproofing and heat-insulating materials can be placed between them.

You can leave a single clutch. Then the insulation and waterproofing are laid between the brickwork and the material of the inner wall cladding.

Outside, finishing work is at the discretion of the owner: it can be a facing brick, it is allowed to sheathe the building with polycarbonate.

Calculation of the number of bricks for the terrace (table)

Masonry size	Length	Width	Height	Qty brick excluding thickness mortar seam, pcs.	Qty brick with considering thickness mortar seam 10 mm, pcs.
1 m 3 single brickwork	250	120	65	512	394
1 m 3 thickened brickwork	250	120	88	378	372
1 m 2 masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 12 cm)	250	120	65	61	51
1 m 2 masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 12 cm)	250	120	88	45	39
1 m 2 masonry in 1 brick (masonry thickness 25 cm)	250	120	65	128	102
(masonry thickness 38 cm)	250	120	65	189	153
1 m 2 masonry in one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 38 cm)	250	120	88	140	117
1 m 2 masonry in 2 bricks (masonry thickness 51 cm)	250	120	65	256	204
1 m 2 masonry in 2 bricks (masonry thickness 51 cm)	250	120	88	190	156
1 m 2 masonry in 2.5 bricks (masonry thickness 64 cm)	250	250	65	317	255
1 m 2 masonry in 2.5 bricks (masonry thickness 64 cm)	250	250	88	235	195

Roof: ceiling trim and other structural elements

To complete the work on the roof, you need to build a crate, lay layers of insulation and cover the surface with finishing roofing material.

The crate can be made solid for roll materials or sparse for sheet roofing. The first is made from OSB boards. They need to be attached to the rafters, leaving a gap of 10 mm. The sparse lathing is done in increments recommended by the manufacturers of the selected roof. Usually it is about 300-350 mm. The crate is attached to the rafter part with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

Veranda roof

Lay mineral wool in the cells between the beam of the crate part. This will be the insulation. Lay a waterproofing material on top, which is attached to the crate with staples of a construction stapler.

For a solid version of the crate, the heat-insulating material is laid inside the veranda, fixing it with the help of transverse rails added to the crate.

The last stage is the laying of roofing material. Ideally the same as the roof of the house.

Final work

Mount the logs of the finished floor to the wooden subfloor, between which it is necessary to lay thermal insulation. Finished floor boards are laid on top, which can be painted or varnished.

Insulate the floor of the veranda, taking into account the climatic conditions of the region

Concrete floors can be finished in the same way as wooden floors. And you can send it at your discretion, for example, put linoleum or tiles.

The last stage of construction is the installation of windows, doors and landscaping of the veranda. The better it will be equipped in the country, the more pleasant it will be to live there in the summer.

It is not necessary to extend additional electrical wiring to the veranda. Here you can use an extension cord that extends from the house, and lighting fixtures are connected to it.

Video: do-it-yourself scheme for erecting a corner veranda

Almost anyone can handle the construction of a veranda. This is a great place to relax, which is simply necessary for a summer cottage. Do not doubt the need for this extension. You will definitely enjoy spending evenings in a cozy room on the veranda. Good luck!

Frame structures of verandas

Frame structures represent one of the most flexible systems of individual housing construction and are the most promising. This technology provides great opportunities for creating a variety of architectural and planning solutions, high operational quality and maintainability. At the same time, the unification of individual elements and the simplicity of work significantly reduces construction time.

An important advantage frame housing construction is its cheapness. For example, in order to comply with modern requirements for heat resistance (for the conditions of the Moscow region), the outer wall should have a thickness of 50 cm when built from timber, 150 cm from brick, and only 15 cm from a wooden frame.

The optimal design of the veranda wall (dimensions in mm): 1 - top trim; 2 - lower harness; 3 - bars-racks; 4 - filler panels

Frame walls are economical and easy to manufacture. They are equally suitable for both northern and southern regions of our country. in combination with an effective insulation will reduce the cost of expensive wood, while maintaining the high heat-saving properties of the enclosing structures. The service life of frame structures is 30 years or more, and with good biological protection, it can be doubled.

Frame construction of the veranda: 1 - upper harness; 2 - rack; 3 - lower harness; 4 - crossbar

At the same time, in terms of their thermal performance, frame houses not only are not inferior, but in some cases even surpass brick walls. There are several types of frame systems:

• according to materials - reinforced concrete, metal and wood;
• on the device of horizontal connections - with a longitudinal, transverse and cross arrangement of crossbars;
• by the nature of static work - frame, bonded and frame-bonded.

Frame structures are distinguished by a "rigid" (monolithic) connection of elements at the nodes of their intersection. Link structures with a welded joint of nodes are distinguished by their simplicity of design. According to the principle of geometric invariability, they have stiffness bonds that are installed between columns and crossbars. Frame-bonded structures have a rigid connection of nodes in the longitudinal direction and crossbars. Frame-bonded structures have a rigid connection of nodes in the longitudinal direction and welded joints - in the transverse direction.

During the construction of verandas The greatest application was found by wooden and metal structures, the spatial rigidity of which is provided by:

• joint work of racks, crossbars and ceilings, forming a geometrically unchanging system;
• a device between the racks of the frame of special stiffening walls;
• installation of special spacers in the frame;
• reliable connection of nodes.

The structures of the frame structure and their individual elements are subjected to various loads and must have a certain strength. The strength of the building is determined by the ability of the frame and its individual elements not to collapse under the action of applied loads. Optimal frame porch construction shown in the figure below.

The optimal design of the frame veranda: 1 - brackets for fixing frame elements; 2 - lower harness; 3 - rack; 4 - brace; 5 - top harness; 6 - formation of a window opening; 7 - gender

metal frames

Until now, metal frames have rarely been used in individual housing construction due to the low thermal insulation ability of metal elements. However, modern technology has made it possible to solve this problem, as a result of which prefabricated buildings with a metal frame have become popular. Enclosing structures made of steel can improve the performance of the building due to its strength, durability and low weight. The light steel frame of the building reduces the load on the foundation and, therefore, reduces the cost of its cost.

A distinctive feature of this technology is the use of paired thin-walled galvanized sigma-profiles, which are a galvanized steel profile up to 3 mm thick and 400 mm high, as load-bearing elements of the frame. In contrast to the box section of profiles, which is used in some modern technologies, profiles are used here, the section of which resembles the Greek letter "sigma". Such profiles are made on a roller bending machine according to the required dimensions, depending on the architectural development of the roof. In addition, Rannila, a supplier of Finnish construction technologies to the Russian market, has mastered the production of thermal profiles of channel section. The perforation of the metal profile shelf makes it possible, when the stiffness is weakened by 10%, to reduce the thermal conductivity by 90%, thereby eliminating the possibility of the so-called "cold bridges".

Rannilla thermal profiles: 1 - paired thin-walled profiles; 2 - perforation

Bearing element of the frame structure of the veranda is a two-span transverse metal frame, in the nodes of which the profiles are bolted together. The step of the frames, depending on the distance between the transverse walls, is 2.6 3.2 m. Runs from Rannila thermal profiles are installed along the contour along the veranda with a step of 600 mm. Thus, the thermal profile transfers the load from the roof to the frame, eliminating freezing, which makes it possible to refuse the use of wooden elements in the frame structure. The racks of the frames rest on a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, which runs along the contour of the walls and rigidly unites the longitudinal and transverse walls in the plane of the basement. Rigidity and stability of the frame in the transverse direction is provided by frames, and in the longitudinal direction - by vertical ties along the middle row of columns and horizontal ties and girders along the outer contour of the frames. A light mineral insulation is laid between the racks. From the inside and outside, the profiles are sheathed with various panels, and for the outside it is desirable to use panels in a moisture-resistant design. An example of such panels are "Sandwich" - Isobud panels, which are used in the construction of prefabricated buildings.

"Sandwich"-panels ISOBUD: 1 - steel sheets; 2 - heat-insulating layer; 3 - polymer coating; 4 - lock connection

The panels consist of sheathing - two steel sheets with a polymer coating and a heat-insulating layer of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. On the surface of the panel on one or both sides there are smooth V-shaped recesses of 1.5 mm in size with a step of 200 mm. Three-layer "Sandwich"-panels Isobud are produced on continuous laminating machines and they are a modern high-quality and high-quality building material. Thanks to the use of panels, construction is no longer a time-consuming process. Within a few days, a durable, economical facility that meets all modern requirements is created. The high strength of the panels makes it possible to increase the distance between the load-bearing elements of the frame without reducing the strength characteristics. Connection of butt panels on bolts provides reliable tightness of the enclosing structure.

Connection of ISOBUD panels on bolts: 1 - bolted connection; 2 - lock connection

Features of installation of ISOBUD panels:

• bolted connection avoids welding work and speeds up the construction process;
• the construction period of the veranda is reduced due to the fact that most of the work is carried out in the factory with a high degree of accuracy and reliability;
• frame structures are lightweight, which eliminates the use of lifting equipment;
• installation can be carried out in any weather;
• the set of tools is reduced to an adjustable wrench, since all connections are bolted;
• beams are attached to anchor bolts, which are laid in the process of monolithic work when constructing a reinforced concrete belt. If the installation of anchor bolts was not provided for in a timely manner, it is possible to fasten with check bolts, for which holes are drilled in concrete. The latter solution is preferable, since the exact placement of anchor bolts during the concreting process can be problematic;
• fastening of sigma profiles to each other occurs through standard fittings supplied to the construction market by many leading manufacturers.

It should be noted that the use of metal thermal profiles is not limited to this example. Modern technologies offer a method of low-rise construction using thermal blocks designed on the basis of thermal profiles.

Thermoblock- is a building structural element, consisting of:

• metal profiled galvanized profile;
• effective insulation;
• vapor barrier films;
• sheathing sheets;
• fastener elements.

The efficiency of using a new building system lies in the totality of product parameters in the course of their operation:

• specially selected steel and additional galvanizing with a thickness of at least 30 microns;
• special perforation, precise cutting and marking of each element;
• reliable and simple fastening of all elements of the system with each other using self-tapping screws;
• design durability - up to 70 years;
• ease and convenience of disassembling buildings and recycling materials.

The use of a thermoblock using perforated steel profiles has a number of advantages over traditional building materials (such as wood, brick, plastics and composites):

• resistance to decay, mold and insects;
• high strength of the structure and its deformability, which means that it can be used in areas with increased seismicity, protection against frost heaving forces, soil deformation and extreme loads;
• dimensional accuracy and ensuring a perfectly flat surface of the walls;
• special perforation, made along the wall of the profiles, allows to minimize the influence of cold bridges when calculating the thermal conductivity of the Thermoblock;
• ensuring easy and quick installation at the construction site without the use of lifting mechanisms;
• saving space when transporting materials;
• a successful combination of strength, lightness, thermal conductivity and efficiency.

An important factor in the modern construction process is the reduction of construction costs and the reduction of investment cycle time. Today's customer does not want to wait until 2-3 construction seasons pass before the facility is fully commissioned. Construction quality and economic readiness of the building is needed very quickly. Profitability when using Thermoblocks is as follows:

• in the absence of the need to arrange foundations with a depth of 1.5-2.0 m with digging pits, drainage, monolithic or prefabricated blocks. Shallow foundations or foundations on bored piles are quite suitable for the Thermoblock system;
• due to the lightness of each element, the exact size and thoughtful assembly drawings, the installation of the frame at the construction site resembles the assembly of a children's designer, only with “non-childish” dimensions and loads;
• in the possibility of erecting enclosing structures without expensive lifting equipment;
• in the lightness and efficiency of the walls with the "ventilated" gap system. This construction technique allows you to get away from thick-walled structures, while maintaining high thermal insulation properties. For example, a 150 mm thick Thermoblock replaces a 1000 mm thick brick wall in terms of its thermal insulation properties, which really allows you to save on building materials;
• in high thermal insulation properties of enclosing structures. Thermoblock-based walls are also a hidden savings factor. The concealment of savings lies in its identification of the consumption of energy carriers intended for space heating. The designs of the Thermoblock make it possible to arrange a "thermos" from the enclosing structure, which, when closed, can store heat for up to 2-3 days, without requiring additional heating. And the further the problem of energy instability deepens, the more important this factor becomes;
• in the free planning of the internal space of the building under construction. The last property is the dream of every architect and client. Thermoblock designs do not give restrictions on the length of the enclosing structure elements and allow you to do without additional load-bearing walls and columns;
• in the accuracy of fitting building structures, which saves on the thickness of the finishing layer;
• in the variant finishing of the facade part of the enclosing structure, which is a hidden reserve for saving material resources. The thermoblock is an independent building element and all additional types of finishes are only a decoration. All facade solutions using the Thermoblock are based on the principle of a “ventilated” facade, when there is an air gap between the block and the finish. Thanks to this gap, it becomes possible to ventilate the insulation and creates a prerequisite for sanitizing the air from inside the room. Some options for the exterior finish of the enclosing structure made of Thermoblock are shown in the figure below. And if the material possibilities do not allow to carry out the final finishing at the time of the erection of the building envelope, then this can be done at any time during the operation of the building.

Exterior finishes with structural elements
THERMOBLOCK: A - THERMOBLOCK with a brick facade; B - THERMOBLOCK with solid insulation and plastered wall; B - THERMOBLOCK with the installation of insulating material; G - THERMOBLOCK with a metal (or wooden) facade; 1 - brick facade; 2 - plaster layer; 3 - insulating layer; 4 - metal (wooden) facade

Facing cassettes Taldom 1000 are a very effective means of sheathing frame-type enclosing structures. Facade cassettes Taldom 1000 are a modern coating that is hung on a steel or wooden substructure with screws both horizontally and vertically.

Finishing with facade cassettes TALDOM 1000: 1 - fencing design; 2 - fastening element; 3 - cassette TALDOM 1000

Facade cassettes- Volumetric metal panels are a metal structure with sheets bent on four sides. They are made of thin sheet steel with a polymer coating on the most modern imported equipment. Dimensions, design, texture and color of cassettes can be very different. In addition, by combining cassettes of various sizes, colors and textures on the same facade, amazing effects can be achieved.

Mounting scheme for cassettes TALDOM 1000: 1 - wall structure; 2 - thermal insulation; 3 - element of fastening to the wall; 4 - cassette TALDOM 1000; 5 - fixing screws

Three-layer "sandwich" panels with mineral wool insulation are industrial building material of factory readiness, intended for internal filling of frame-type enclosing structures. The panels are produced using modern technology on high-performance equipment in accordance with Technical Specifications (TU) 5284-003-50186441-02. Due to the unique manufacturing technology, special orientation of the fibers and the special structure of the insulation, the panel has a high resistance to mechanical stress and increased heat and sound insulation properties.

Three-layer sandwich panel: 1 - profiled galvanized steel sheet with a polymer coating; 2 - mineral wool insulation

Types of coatings can be very different, and they depend on the supplier of the sheet. The color scale of sheets is determined by the project and catalogs of manufacturers of a smooth sheet. The surfaces of the cladding panels are protected by a self-adhesive polyethylene film, which is removed after the panel is installed in the design position.

Cornice (horizontal section): 1 - panel; 2 - roof runs; 3 - self-drilling screw; 4 - self-drilling screw; 5 - thermal insulation from mineral wool; 6, 7 - individual additional element 1.2 mm galvanized with a polymer coating; 8 - corrugated board according to the project; 9 - mineral wool according to the project; 10 - plywood gasket 14 mm; 11 - polyethylene film

The panels are insulated with mineral wool boards with a bulk weight of at least 100 kg/m³, made on the basis of basalt fiber. Mineral wool boards are cut into strips and stacked in a checkerboard pattern, providing the necessary thermal protection and strength of the panel. High-quality adhesive MAKROPLAST from HENKEL (Germany) is used to ensure strong adhesion of metal sheathing to the minplate. To ensure a complete delivery of wall fencing, together with panels, the following items are supplied to the construction site:

• strips and flashings (additional elements);
• fasteners (self-tapping screws) for connecting panels to the frame;
• fasteners for connecting additional elements and panels to each other;
• sealing and sealing gaskets;
• installation instructions and technical installation documentation.

The complete set of each order is determined by the project and the specification agreed with the customer. The minimum allowable resistance to heat transfer of enclosing structures for various climatic conditions is regulated by SNiP - 11-3-79 "Construction Heat Engineering". The degree of thermal protection depends on the purpose of the building, the number of degree-days of the heating period, determined by SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology".

Corner joint of "sandwich" panels: 1 - "sandwich" panels; 2 - corner element; 3 - long threaded screw; 4 - short self-tapping screw; 5 - thermal insulation (mineral wool); 6 - wall construction element

With the design of the walls and partitions of the veranda with the filling of the frame with "sandwich" panels, the wall field can be filled with both horizontal and vertical arrangement of panels. In this case, horizontal cutting is preferable, since in this case the need for additional fachwerk elements is eliminated. In addition, with this design of the enclosing structure, the possibility of water ingress from the wall plane along the “zigzags” under the horizontal flashings is excluded. Special moisture-proof sealing of these nodes is very laborious and spoils the facade.

Fastening the "sandwich" panel to the base: 1 - "sandwich" panel; 2 - base; 3 - wooden cork; 4 - mineral wool; 5 - through, threaded screw; 6 - additional element; 7 - steel at the jackdaws; 8 - tape Outline C; 9 - waterproofing; 10 - screw

The panels are fastened to the supporting structures of the frame through self-drilling screws with steel and sealing washers under the head. The number of screws on each panel fastening line is determined by calculation from the condition that the maximum calculated tearing force on the screw with a washer diameter of 19 mm should not exceed 80 kg / piece. Structurally, at least 3 screws are placed at each end of the panel or along each fastening line. The screws can be completed with colored plastic caps.

Fastening the "sandwich" panel to the window unit: 1 - "sandwich" panel; 2 - window block; 3 - long threaded screw; 4 - self-tapping screws; 5 - diffusion tape; 6 - additional element; 7 - hydro-thermal insulation

When cutting horizontally, the panels are adjacent to the columns, if necessary, to the half-timbered racks through sealing gaskets with a section of 15 × 5 mm of the Abris S-LB type (Tu5772-003-43008408-99). The gap between the ends of the panels is closed with a mineral wool gasket and covered with a vapor-permeable self-adhesive tape. Outside, the seam is closed with metal strips. The flashings are fixed to the sheathing of adjacent panels with self-drilling screws. The seam between the panel and the plinth is sealed with the Abris S-LB cord and covered from the room with a flashing, which is installed on the plinth and adjoins the panel sheathing through a gasket with a section of 15 × 5 mm.

When cutting the walls vertically, the panels are adjacent to the plinth through a mineral wool gasket. From the outside, the seam is covered with a vapor-permeable tape. From the inside, the panels are adjacent to the mounting bracket through the gasket Abris S-LB with a section of 15 × 5 mm. The junction is closed with a flashing made of galvanized sheet with a polymer coating. The sheet is fixed to the panel with self-drilling screws or Spike spring anchors. The geometry of the flashings is developed by the project and agreed with the technologists of the plant. The length of the flashings, as a rule, is 2000 mm.

Windows and doors can be wooden, plastic or aluminum. Spot windows are recommended to be made with an opening height of 1.2 m within the height of one panel. The skins of each panel along the perimeter of the opening are connected with brackets from a strip of 70 × 1.2 mm with a step of 600-700 mm. The window frame is fixed at two points on each side with self-drilling screws. With two or more windows 1.2 m high in a 6 m axle spacing or with large windows and doors, a fachwerk of rectangular tubular profiles is provided. Fachwerk is placed close to the inner surface of the wall. In this case, the size of the opening is determined taking into account the possibility of cutting the panels without violating their integrity - a cutout with a depth of not more than 600 mm with a distance from the vertical border of the opening to the end of the panel of at least 600 mm.

Installation and fastening of window and door frames made of aluminum and plastic is developed by a specific supplier of products. The gap between the window frame and the panel is closed with a strip of mineral wool and insulated from the street side with a vapor-permeable (diffuse) tape, and from the room - with a vapor barrier tape.

The top of the walls, depending on the architectural solution of the veranda and its height, is made with a cornice or parapet. Partition structures (similar to walls) can be with vertical or horizontal panels. With a small height of the premises, vertical cutting is preferable. The fastening of the partition panels should exclude the possibility of transferring the load from the ceiling to them during its deflection.

Wooden frames

Wooden frame buildings in Russia were built long before they were used by Ford for the workers of the automobile complex in Detroit more than a hundred years ago. True, the Russians sewed up the gaps between the racks of the frame not with insulated wooden shields, but with rolls of straw and clay. The technology of wood-rolled walls is still widely used in some regions of our country. To do this, cranial bars are nailed to the racks of the frame, forming peculiar grooves. Short bars wrapped in rolls of straw and clay are hammered into the grooves between the cranial bars. Thus, a combination of wooden and adobe structure is obtained. Plastering of wooden-rolled walls is carried out with a clay mortar with an aggregate of fine wooden sawdust.

Fragment of the frame of the veranda: 1 - crossbars of the window opening; 2 - window opening; 3 - lower harness; 4 - top harness; 5 - racks

Typical modern timber frame construction consists of lower trim, walls, stiffening struts and such auxiliary elements as intermediate posts and crossbars, between which window and door openings are located. The most common material for the frame of the veranda is a bar with a section of 100 × 100 mm made of coniferous wood. The lower harness, which serves as the base of the frame, is assembled from beams, logs or thick boards. During the assembly process, a timber pre-cut to size is laid out on a plinth with the alignment of the diagonals of all the rectangles in the plan and mark the tie-ins for connections, as well as holes for anchors. Then, at a specially equipped place, the necessary samples are made in the bars, then each part is sequentially installed in place. After the final check of the diagonals, the parts of the lower trim are connected to the base and to each other.

Formation of nests in the frame harness: 1 - fixation; intermediate racks; 2 - assembly of a reinforced socket for a corner post; 3 - fixing the corner post

The cutting of the corners of the lower trim is usually performed with a direct half-tree lock. If the floor beams are cut into the harness, then the latter is made up of two crowns. The cutting of the floor beams is usually performed with the help of a corner lock in an overlay of the 1st and 2nd kind or in a simple frying pan with a cut. These beams are included in the system of horizontal connections of the building structure, giving it the necessary rigidity. Connecting and rallying wooden elements is a very difficult and responsible task. Therefore, the quality of the finished frame structure directly depends on the correct choice of the connection and the qualification of its execution.

Traditional cuts in the frame nodes do not present any particular technological complexity. But their fit should be such that gaps do not form in the nodes, which will adversely affect the rigidity of the frame. The elements of the lock cuts and their relative position must be made with particular accuracy. Otherwise, distortions of the planned layout cannot be avoided, and the correction of the mistakes made leads to high labor costs, and sometimes to overspending of building materials. Profiled structures that maintain the rigidity of the frame geometry have proven themselves well.

Profiled structures in the power circuit of the frame: 1 - lower trim; 2 - rack; 3 - embedded element; 4 - corner post; 5 - racks in the general design; 6 - lag

For reliability, the joints are fastened with bolts, screws, nails, dowels, dowels, glues, sometimes combining these types with each other. In addition, modern industry produces metal connectors, with which you can easily assemble any node of a wooden frame without making laborious cuts. To prevent lateral shift of the frame, the bars of the lower trim are attached to the foundation with anchors, metal clamps, or in any other available way. For this, when installing the foundation, special metal mortgages are provided.

The beams of the basement are cut with a frying pan into the bars of the lower trim, and their ends are antiseptic after machining. In this case, the depth of support of a wooden beam on the strapping bars or girders should not be less than 100 mm. In external walls with a thickness of 510 mm, as well as in internal walls separating rooms with the same temperature, both open and closed beams can be used. The ends of the beams, which rest on the outer walls, are cut obliquely at an angle of 60 °, antiseptic, burned or wrapped in two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt. When beams are supported on internal walls, two layers of roofing felt or roofing material are placed under their ends. The ends of the beams must be left open. It is impossible to coat them with bitumen or wrap with roofing material. If the section of the beams does not provide sufficient bearing capacity of the floor, then they are made composite in width from boards of the corresponding section.

To protect wooden frame structures from ground moisture, under the bars of the lower strapping, waterproofing is made of 2-3 layers of roofing felt or roofing material on bituminous mastic. To protect the lower trim, it is advisable to place tarred or antiseptic-treated gaskets under its bars. To reduce the level of sound vibrations that are transmitted to the walls from the ceiling, it is advisable to lay the beams on soundproof pads, which can be felt or rubber impregnated with an antiseptic. In addition, all wooden frame structures are treated with antiseptics to protect against fungal infections. Fire protection is carried out by treating wood with flame retardants.

The racks of the frame are installed at the corners of the veranda, and the intermediate ones - at a distance from one another in accordance with the dimensions of the filler. Racks of attached buildings (verandas, vestibules, bay windows, etc.) should be connected with the main power circuit of the house, which will give the frame additional rigidity. The racks are connected to the upper and lower strapping with spikes 5x5x5 cm and fastened at each end with brackets from opposite sides. When installing racks, it is necessary to place their sides in the same plane within the wall. This will subsequently facilitate the task of both internal and external cladding.

For racks use wood without defects, only the 1st grade. The section of the racks should ensure the perception of all loads from the floor and roof of the building. Racks are installed vertically in two planes and fastened with technological braces and struts. The struts are cut into the racks and strapping bars with a frontal cut, and the braces are cut with a semi-pan cut or attached with nails and bolts. The number of struts and their installation locations are determined from the conditions of rigidity of the power scheme of the frame, as a rule, there should be at least two braces within one wall.

The optimal distance between the racks of the frame is considered to be 50-70 mm, but in any case it should not be more than 1 m. These dimensions ensure the strength and stability of the frame and allow the use of any molded or sheet material for interior and exterior cladding. In the places of installation of door and window blocks, the distance between the racks of the frame must correspond to the outer dimensions of the boxes. If this condition is not met, then it becomes necessary to install additional racks designed to secure the boxes. The power scheme of the wooden frame is completed with bars of the upper trim and floor beams, on which roof trusses are installed.

If the frame of the veranda is being built simultaneously with the house of any design, then they are interconnected into a single constructive scheme. In this case, the connecting link may be the release of floor beams or roof truss elements outside the house.

Release of floor beams to create a single structural
"house-veranda" schemes: 1 - release of the floor beam of the house; 2 - veranda floor beams; 3 - upper trim of the veranda; 4 - bottom harness

The walls of the frame-type veranda can be filled with one of the types of loose aggregate, which is poured between the panels of the inner and outer skin. The most effective insulation is mineral wool with a bulk density of up to 500 kg / m³. Mineral wool slabs are lightweight, fire resistant, do not rot or be destroyed by rodents. Insulation plates are laid with obligatory overlapping of joints. Other mineral heaters (fuel and metallurgical slags, expanded clay, tripoli) are significantly inferior to mineral wool in terms of thermal conductivity and their use in areas with an estimated outdoor air temperature below -25 ºС is impractical. In addition, bulk materials during operation can precipitate, resulting in the formation of voids that reduce the heat-shielding properties of the walls. Styrofoams are combustible and in most cases have a relatively high toxicity.

The release of the rafter leg to form a single structural scheme with a veranda: 1 - rafter leg; 2 - floor beam; 3 - wall

Wall cladding completes the power scheme of the frame, giving it the necessary rigidity and strength. Sheathing can be either horizontal or vertical. From an operational point of view, horizontal sheathing is preferable, as it provides maximum protection of the insulation from atmospheric moisture. Sheathing of the frame Wall starts from the outside. Then they lay the insulation, vapor barrier, and only after that they proceed to the inner lining. Particular care must be taken to perform vapor barrier at the junction of walls with the ceiling. To do this, when sheathing walls, 150-200 mm of vapor barrier material is left on top, which is subsequently folded in when sheathing the ceiling.

The wooden frame is sheathed on the inside and outside with boards 25 mm thick, nailed to the uprights. Instead of boards, flat asbestos-cement or fiberboard slabs and other weather-resistant materials are often used for exterior cladding. The interior lining is carried out in accordance with the design intent. The type of exterior finish of the frame walls is chosen from architectural considerations, the availability of materials, etc. It is possible to perform the outer skin in two stages. First, the outer walls are sheathed with draft boards, and then decorative cladding is arranged. It can be shingle, lining, brick, or one of the types of cladding panels that have appeared on the market in great abundance.

Various in type and size, purpose and appearance, verandas have become a familiar addition to a country house, a place of rest in the heat and feasts on summer evenings. How to make a veranda in the country, we will tell in the article, and also consider some of the features of a legal, technical and architectural nature.

Veranda construction

Choice of type and location

First of all, you must decide for yourself what kind of design you want.

For this, the following points should be determined:

• The location of the building relative to the house. As you know, the veranda is attached to the front of the facade where the entrance is located or to the side of it, but not on the back wall or somewhere else;
• Building dimensions. should successfully fit into the overall style of the structure and not become too bulky, while it should not be cramped either. Usually the length is made from 4 to 7 meters, and the width - from 2.5 - 3.5 meters;
• Building materials. Everything is extremely simple here: the material of the veranda must match the material of the house, or at least include them in your design. Attaching plastic structures to stone or metal structures to wood is unacceptable because of the obvious inconsistency, if not ugliness;
• Open or closed, it will be a structure, whether it will be heated in winter or serve only as a summer room. The question is immediately solved: “How to close the veranda in the country?” - it can be wood or brick, frame structure, glass and other materials that are in harmony with the house and the surrounding objects of the site;
• Issue price. It will depend on what materials and technologies you can afford, as well as how reliable and durable the structure will be.

As a rule, they make drawings of the veranda in the country with their own hands, so the process here is not only laborious, but also creative.

Of course, if you are a wealthy person and do not want to take risks, you can hire an experienced architect or order turnkey construction, but your own is always more expensive and nicer, believe me.

Open or closed type is also easy to determine - it depends on the frequency or permanence of your stay in a country house. If it is permanent or according to the principle “back and forth in winter and summer”, then it is better to build a closed and warm room, but if you see the site only in summer, then stop at the summer open version.

Important!
Before starting construction, it is better to coordinate any extension with the competent authorities and re-register the house.

Legal aspect

Of course, the Sonder team will not come to you the next day and will not require Ausweiss, but if you eventually want to rent out, transfer ownership to someone, sell or donate your house, the extension will have to be registered, only through a fine and in a less acceptable way.

First of all, with ready-made sketches, they turn to the design organization, which draws up a project plan and approves its possibility.

Next, you should write a statement about the desire to build a structure, take a passport, documents for the ownership of the house and land, as well as a previously approved project, and visit a number of organizations that deal with real estate registration in your region.

Important!
Your application will be considered, and only after a positive resolution is issued, you can safely start construction.
Who, how and from what will do it - does not affect the documents, the fact itself is important.

Construction of a wooden veranda

1. The foundation for the veranda in the country house is made columnar. To do this, in the corners of the structure, as well as at a distance of 1.5 m, we dig holes 70–100 cm deep, make formwork, put reinforcement and concrete pillars, the height of which should be about 30 cm below the foundation of the house itself. Don't forget about concrete waterproofing;

1. From a beam of 100x100 or 150x150 cm we make the lower trim of the pillars along the perimeter, and if the length and width are large, then you can make an internal beam, and two, crossing them in the middle. Fastening to concrete through roofing material in half a tree on anchor bolts;

1. From a bar of 100x100 cm we expose corner posts, posts near the doorway, and also at a distance of 1.5 meters around the entire perimeter of the structure, the height of the pillars is such that the edge of the roof of the veranda is several centimeters below the edge of the roof of the house for the slope angle. We fasten with steel corners and self-tapping screws, you can make a cut and “plant” on nails;

1. Then, from the same beam, we make the upper trim, which will connect the outer perimeter of the extension into one line and make the frame strong and monolithic;

1. We sew up the walls with clapboard, taking into account window openings, from the inside of the vernada with cotton wool or foam plastic and also sew up with clapboard. We install double-glazed windows and hang the door;

1. On the upper strapping, we fill the log system from a 150x50 board, make a crate and lay a roofing pie;

1. We decide how to cover the floor on the veranda in the country (terrace board, concrete screed, etc.) and carry out its installation. Next, we move on to finishing and painting.