Fold the oven with your own hands: step by step instructions. How to fold a brick stove with your own hands: a step-by-step guide for properly laying a brick stove in a house Building a brick stove with your own hands

There are a large number of different stoves that can serve both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room, the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with the obligatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the conditions of the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with orders can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure on your own is quite difficult, since each stove-maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick oven

If, nevertheless, it is decided to do such work on your own, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also to its heating abilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a furnace by size, it must be taken into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning the installation of the stove in one place or another.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by its form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a ledge in the form of a stove bench or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and can be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living rooms and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that can be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Stove selection table depending on the heated area and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two outside corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be predetermined, and based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or the other model.

Types of brick ovens

As mentioned above, the design of furnaces can be different - both very difficult to build, and quite simple. The most famous of the models are "Dutch", "Swede", "Russian". Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. So, the furnaces of Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

• There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which flue ducts, furnaces, blowers and cleaning chambers pass.

• Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a hot water tank and a drying chamber.

• Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

• There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which may well serve as the basis for the bed.

You may be interested in information about what is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating furnaces

Choosing a place to install the oven

It is also important to provide for the correct installation location of the furnace. The best place is the crosshairs of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is located near the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from the front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the whole house.

When choosing a place, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

• The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unhindered control of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
• When erecting a furnace, it is necessary to provide for it a separate foundation, not connected to the base of the house.
• The chimney must pass between the attic floor beams and not stumble upon them when it is raised - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being built in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
• For the purpose of fire safety, a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles must be placed on the floor in front of the furnace door.

Basic design of a brick oven

To know how each of the elements of the furnace works, and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

• The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the blower chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels, through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
• The blower chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, therefore it requires periodic cleaning.
• An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
• Cleaning chambers are necessary, as soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. With the help of them, periodic cleaning of the furnace is carried out to maintain normal traction.

• The chimney channels passing inside the furnace may have a different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous products of combustion, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which give off heat to the room.
• Channels direct smoke with combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the furnace and then going outside the building.

One of the most important conditions for the efficient operation of the furnace is good traction, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the ordering scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the required height of the chimney and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in why

Materials for building a furnace

An important issue for the long-term functioning of the furnace is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not save on them. To build a building you will need:

• Red refractory brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out very carefully.
• Fireclay bricks are used for laying a combustion chamber in direct contact with fire. It will take from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick is able to withstand temperatures of 1450-1500 °, it keeps heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the walls of the furnace.
• You can’t do without raising the oven without mortar for laying bricks, which is made on the basis of clay. The stove-makers are advised to use the Borovichevsky composition of the solution - it is quite plastic during the laying process and refractory during operation.
• Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, blower and cleaning chambers, valves and a grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

• Steel wire for fixing cast iron elements in masonry.
• Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in information on how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a furnace, we can consider several models that should be available for masonry even for beginners.

Heating stove by V. Bykov

This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, as it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of ​​​​the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.

For this oven model you will need the following materials:

• Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
• White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
• Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
• Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made furnaces for brick ovens

Firebox for brick ovens

Bykov furnace ordering

The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.

ordering	Description of works
	According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed.
	2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required.
	3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
	4 row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks together with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the grate installed on the same row. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to lay out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	7 row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used.
	8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks.
	9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme.
	10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks.
	11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks.
	15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the upper gas-air and the lower fuel. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used.
	17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	18 row - a horizontal channel of the furnace is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used.
	21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls dividing the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	25th row - it completes the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
	26th row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness.
	29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required.
	30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin

Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

The appearance of the "Swede" Ryazankin

Such an oven is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of ​​the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.

For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:

• Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
• Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
• Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
• Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
• Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
• Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace masonry

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is the preliminary fitting and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is laid out first, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Ordering - from 1 to 6 row

• The first, continuous row of the furnace, is laid on onlaid on ready ruberoid foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is necessary to mark the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
• 2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which a fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element is completely leveled. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
• 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with asbestos pieces. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

• 4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
• It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos in order to avoid premature burnout.

• 6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

• 7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
• 8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
• 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
• 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.

Ordering - from 13 to 24 row

• From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
• 16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber is being completed, located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
• 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
• 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
• 20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
• 22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
• 23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
• 24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the mortar.

• 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
• 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
• From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
• 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
• 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When laying a pipe through an attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The oven - "Swede" can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.

Video: brick "Swede" with a stove bench

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding on an independent construction of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice in the usual laying of bricks on the mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 27.08.2015

If you are thinking about building a country house that is as comfortable as possible for living in it, then it usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it for most of the year. The lack of experience in furnace work should not stop the owners who want to invest the furnace on their own. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complicated option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating facility with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. We will also consider options that are simple in execution, which are suitable for both a small house and a beginner stove-maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then, consider several options, focusing on the optimal one for a specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick ovens

The conditions that the selected design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating the house, so do not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct form of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, warming up, give more heat, while the index of the front and rear walls is 3-4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped version of the furnace is often installed. It can be designed for heating only or it can perform two functions if a model is selected that includes a hob. Such a stove is able to heat up to four rooms with a small area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the building inside the house, it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a device for heating and cooking, it must be installed so that the hob goes towards the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a furnace, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of the furnace according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits surfaces, depending on the characteristics of the room:

Room area, m²	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two outside corners	Hallway
	Furnace surface facing the room, m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since it will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel to warm it up, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown into the pipe”. In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than half-room structures, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal structure of the furnace, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any, even the most heat-intensive stove, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat generated by it will go through walls, windows and ceilings. These require a very large amount of fuel to keep the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel, getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type version of the furnace, which, thanks to numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the oven?

The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up a project, so you can install a heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, it is much easier to build a foundation for a furnace before building a house, both in terms of calculations and in terms of the amount of work. It must be said right away that the base for the furnace must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may deform.

• If several rooms are planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is shown in the diagram above.
• In some cases, homeowners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, as thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain from cold streams.
• Placing a firebox near the front door will save you from unnecessary garbage in the living rooms, since they do not have to bring firewood or other fuel. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not adjoin the walls of the house closely, that is, it is necessary to provide free access to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case a reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to provide that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at least 150 mm away from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with expanded clay of fine fraction, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

You may be interested in information about what is

Models of simple in design small brick ovens

Brick ovens of small sizes do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the appearance of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are inaccessible in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will either help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if gas is not supplied to the house, and electricity is often turned off or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing about the demand for small-sized furnace models, engineers developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Furnace "Krokha"

The name of the Krokha model in itself speaks of the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, with the correct installation of the structure, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be an ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in wet or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called "simple", because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach, it may well be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640 × 770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so "Krokha" will perfectly fit not only into the cottage room, but also decorate the interior of a private house with its cozy look. This stove is designed for heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Furnace parameters	Numeric Parameter Values
Width and length at the base	3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm
Construction height to pipe	2030 mm
Furnace weight	1260-1280 kg
Firebox depth	746 mm
efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation with a disposable firebox	1760 W
With a three-time firebox	2940 W
hob	Single burner

The designer has well thought out the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. In the process of burning this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap”, located in the upper part, retains the released heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a "summer" stroke, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. "Baby" has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient variety is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient in that the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into a partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen room.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is laid out with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls withstand not only wood heat, but also that of fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

To the level of the stove, the stove has even walls, and above the furnace door, under the stove, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30 ÷ 35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: upper, air-gas and lower - fuel. In the upper part of the furnace there are channels for the circulation of heated air. They contribute to the longest retention of heat in the furnace, preventing it from immediately leaving the pipe.

According to the idea of ​​the developer, this furnace should be equipped with a furnace door with refractory glass, through which the flames are perfectly visible. Therefore, if desired, "Baby" can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced by a conventional cast-iron version.

Since the oven has a small perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Chamotte brick SHA-8		21
Red brick (no chimney		352
Figured (rounded) red brick		124
	350×250	1
Glass furnace door in a cast-iron frame (DP-308-1S)	210×250	1
Cast iron blower door	140×140	1
	410×340	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
flue damper	130×250	1
steel corner	40×40×5×520	4

Compact oven model - "Baby"

The main advantage of the model is its small size, which is 505×760 mm at the base. Well, a small weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the installation of the structure on a strong heat-insulated wooden floor. A small oven has relatively thin walls, therefore, when heated, it quickly begins to give off heat to the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this furnace model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first lower row of the back wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, it must be laid without mortar. This must be done so that after the completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the furnace cleaned of the fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help to dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place already on the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Usually, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered from above with a metal sheet or roofing material and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tile must be laid and fixed in front of the stove.

The first heating of the finished furnace should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valve open for ventilation and final drying, which should be carried out for at least 7 ÷ 9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the oven. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps between the mortar and the brick that are not visible to the eye. The smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash, which will stretch upwards from the defective seam. When such traces appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the solidified solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.

You may be interested in information on how to do with step by step instructions

If you plan to make a decorative finish on the outer walls of the "Baby", then you can start this only after two to three months of operation of the furnace.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Raising the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and roof of the house;
• By immuring a steel pipe into it and connecting it to the root chimney;
• The walled-in pipe can be brought out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help to understand the design of this model of a brick oven, since the number of rows and the configuration of the chimney channels are clearly visible on it.

The main characteristics of the stove "Baby" are as follows:

Furnace parameters	Numeric Parameter Values
Width and length at the base	505×760 mm
Construction height to pipe	725 mm
Furnace weight	360÷370 kg
Firebox depth	737 mm
Chimney channel section size	100×100 mm
efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation	1210 W
hob	single burner

For the construction of the Malyshki stove, the following materials and ready-made elements will be required (if you do not take into account the chimney):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron blower door	140×140	1
Cast iron furnace door	210×250	1
Single burner cast iron stove	410×340	1
Cast iron grate	350×200	1
flue damper	130×250	1
	550×800	1

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model is easily improved, despite its compactness. To its design, some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water. In this configuration, "Baby" can be used as a sauna stove.

You may be interested in information about what are mini

Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in the country if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove is provided for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building a stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can safely be called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the furnace have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” half a wall in size, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat dissipation from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, 210 W fall on the front and rear walls, and 895 W each on the side walls.

The heating furnace has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, more material will be required for it.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, as well as the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper one is the gas outlet, and the lower one is the furnace. The upper part of the furnace - "cap", consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Due to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming up the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model, you will need the materials listed in this table:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Red brick		260
Chamotte brick SHA-8 for the furnace department		130
Cast iron grate	250×400	1
Cast iron blower door	140×200	1
Cast iron furnace door	200×300	1
Cleaning doors	140×200	2
flue damper	130×310	2
Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing	1000x600	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox	500×700	1

To simplify the work, the masters use special ordering schemes that you need to focus on when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This ordering scheme shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the design is quite massive and bulky in height, it will not work to install it on a wooden floor.

• The roofing material is laid under the masonry in two layers, and in order to simplify the alignment of the first row, it is possible to draw the border of the base on the waterproofing material with chalk using a long ruler.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontality and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some masters also practice stretching horizontal cords for each of the rows.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, a vertical chimney channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is being installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is done with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, a furnace door is installed and fixed with wire.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

• The following diagram represents the order, starting from the 13th and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to masonry in accordance with the scheme. Otherwise, all the work may be spoiled, and it will have to be redone.
• Having finished the laying of the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the door of the cleaning chamber is also installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is made according to the ordering scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid out on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is mounted.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are laid, with which it will be possible to adjust the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the scheme, and from the 35th row, the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swede" - a detailed description of the laying of the furnace

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description, since, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the building. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber go towards the kitchen, and the even back brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the furnace, into the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, with a capacity of 2750 kcal / h, so the stove is able to heat one or two rooms up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the "Swede" was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created to heat a country house, 4000 × 7000 mm in size, built of silicate bricks or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses with other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood, as well as other types of solid fuels, can be used as fuel for this stove.
• In this model, only the inner lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it are carried out. Therefore, fireclay bricks will not violate the aesthetic appearance of the furnace facade, made of high-quality red bricks. Its external finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so placing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, laying the drying chamber is required.

If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

You may be interested in information about which one is better to use when building fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking "Swede":

Name of materials and components	Size (mm)	Quantity (piece)
Red solid kiln brick (excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireclay refractory brick Sh-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Furnace door	210×250	1
Doors for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Cast iron double burner hob	410×710	1
grate	200×300	1
flue damper	130×250	1
Steam damper	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Shelf for dryer	190×340	1
Metal sheet for drying chambers	800×905×0.5÷1	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700×1.5÷2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swede"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first solid row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, as it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also in solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks are supposed to be laid in a run-up, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber begins, which will be located under the oven, and the blower. Vertical flue ducts are also beginning to form. Laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast-iron doors are fixed in the windows. After that, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on spoons. Moreover, at the brick, installed in the right vertical channel, the angle is squeezed, for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of refractory fireclay bricks is installed in the first chimney channel - in the figure it is highlighted in yellow. For laying this row, you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the scheme, with the chimney channels still remaining united. For a row, you need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the bottom of the combustion chamber are laid out with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick, which will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are separated from the right first channel. For the installation of this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the drawing. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and three separate ducts should now form at the back of the furnace. The base for the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks - it is installed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for the oven and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of mounting the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that a compensation gap remains between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, also previously wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the internal arrangement of niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks will be required.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the laid out sixth row with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the furnace and oven chambers continue to form - the inner lining is fire-resistant, and the outer masonry is red brick. Chamotte brick is installed on a spoon, red on the bed (flat). For work, you need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber, where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry goes according to the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The rest of the work is carried out according to the scheme shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10×10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick, which is installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the furnace, for laying the cast-iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step carved in fireclay bricks around the entire perimeter of the inner space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the furnace, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45 × 45 × 1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and to generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the furnace is filled with a brick, which is mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. For work, you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row, 15 red bricks will be required - the masonry passes according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the shown ordinal pattern. For the 13th row, you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here it must be taken into account that the seams between the bricks of the lower row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a pattern different from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also stacked according to the ordering scheme. For them, you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be blocked with three steel corners measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are laid side by side, with vertical walls to each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, the front part of the chamber is covered with a strip measuring 45 × 45 × 700 mm. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners must be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks that cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, in the far left corner of the overlap, a hole is left for extracting vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the overlap, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work, you need 25 bricks.
	After that, a steel corner measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is designed to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, as it must withstand two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and 16 red bricks need to be prepared for laying.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out from 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate 190 × 340 mm in size is mounted on a small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the chimney channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam channel, into which a valve will be mounted that regulates the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to install a valve having a size of 140 × 140 mm on the prepared seat. For this series, you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is blocked, as well as the union of the first and second chimney channels. You will need 15½ bricks to work on this row.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row, you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the pattern shown.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner having a size of 45 × 45 × 905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 650 mm. The corner, laid on the front side of the drying chambers, is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and, together with the steel strips, to create the basis for the steel sheet overlapping the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800 × 905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and the corner. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, which will receive smoke from all other ducts. A chimney will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, solid brickwork is arranged on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude beyond the perimeter of the furnace section by 25 mm. For laying this row, 32 bricks are required.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond its limits by another 25 mm. The flue outlet remains open. To lay out this row, 37 red bricks will be needed.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out indented inward by 50 mm from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the furnace base.
	The 30th row of laying the furnace is already the first row of the chimney overhead pipe. A row consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10 × 10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney valve, 250 × 130 mm in size. Further, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay solution.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney valve, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Above, work on the construction of the chimney will already begin.

The lower scheme with a section of the structure of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of the products of combustion of the fuel. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.

So, to quickly and inexpensively fold an efficient brick oven is a completely doable task. In this publication, nothing was said about the gasket mortar, but only because this issue is well covered in another article on our portal.

What solution is better to lay the furnace?

The question is a serious one, since not only the strength of the structure being erected depends on the quality of the solution - the safety issues of operating the furnace are in the first place. About what and when are applied - in a special publication of our portal.

You may be interested in information on how to build

In conclusion, as a "bonus" - another option for a small heating and cooking stove, well suited for country conditions:

Video: compact multifunctional brick oven for a summer house or a small house

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 16.10.2016

Long-term use of stoves confirmed the rationality of their designs. They are used for cooking, heating water, steaming livestock feed, drying various products, clothes and heating all kinds of premises. The heat transfer of plates does not exceed 900 kcal/h. To increase heat transfer, the plates are connected to heating shields. Plates and shields are connected to root or packed pipes. Plates come in different sizes and weights. Regardless of the size and designs, the standard height of the slabs is considered to be 770 mm, but often due to the thickening of the masonry joints, it rises slightly.

All of the ranges discussed are designed for cast iron stoves and decks of a certain size. From the use of a different size, the slabs can change both in length and in width, but leaving the channels unchanged. If it is necessary to use appliances of other sizes for stoves, then the holes for them are changed accordingly.

Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to purchase the necessary appliances and only after that proceed with laying the stove, in accordance with the dimensions of the existing appliances. We remind you that some cast iron slabs have protrusions or stiffening ribs (sides) on the underside, which recede from the edges of the slabs by 15 mm. Therefore, the internal dimensions of the masonry must be such that the slab freely enters it with its sides and has a gap of at least 5 mm for the expansion of the metal from heating. If this is not done, then the metal, expanding, will upset (destroy) the furnace masonry.

Industry manufactures various appliances for furnaces from cast iron and steel. If one or another device is not available, it has to be manufactured on its own. This is especially true for ovens and hot water boxes. The first must be made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, the second - of galvanized steel. We remind you that the thicker the steel, the more durable the device.

Kitchen stoves are divided by their design into simple, medium complexity and complex. Simple ones do not have an oven or a hot-water box, medium complexity most often have only an oven, and complex ones have an oven and a hot-water box. The firebox can be located on the front or on one of the sides. The oven and the hot water box are placed either together to the right or to the left of the firebox, or separately on both sides. In the first case, one valve is required, in the other, two.

Cookers usually work like this. In a simple stove, hot gases from the firebox are directed under a cast-iron stove or cast-iron flooring, and from there directly through the outlet (outlet channel) into a pipe or heating shield. In the rest of the hearths, hot gases are also directed first under the cast-iron stove or flooring, from there under the oven or oven and water box, washing them from three sides, and only then are they sent to the pipe or heating shield.

Figure 48 shows a general view of cooking stoves or hearths and their sections with the movement of gases inside them.

When laying kitchen stoves, fire-prevention measures should be especially observed.

When laying a kitchen stove on a wooden floor or under a wooden board, before starting work, it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the stove. Put a layer of sheet asbestos or two layers of sheet felt on the floor or shield; well soaked in a clay solution, cover with a steel sheet and nail it.

On this sheet, the shape of the slab is drawn and the first row of masonry is laid on the clay mortar.

Having laid out the stove completely, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 500 × 700 mm is attached under the firebox, it is nailed 50 mm apart and a plinth is nailed onto it. But you can first nail a plinth around the stove, and bend the pre-furnace sheet onto the plinth. Although it is somewhat more difficult, it is better.

In order for the top row of masonry, that is, the eleventh, to be more durable, and the stove more beautiful, a corner steel or faience piping is laid on it. If it adjoins directly to the heating shield, then faience is placed on three sides, if away from it, then on four. It is either put on masonry, or fixed with steel tape clasps.

simple stove

A simple stove without an oven and a water-heating box (Fig. 49) has a size: length - 890 mm, width - 510 and height - 770 mm. Rectangular shapes. Weight - 530 kg. Heat transfer with two fireboxes per day - 700 kcal / h.

Materials: ordinary or red brick - 118 pieces, ordinary clay - 2.5 buckets; sand - 1.5 buckets, grate - 25 × 18 cm; ordinary furnace door - 25 × 20.5 cm; blower and cleaning doors - 130 × 140 mm; two composite cast-iron stoves with burners measuring 410 × 360 mm; two sheets of roofing steel, pre-furnace - 500 × 700 mm and under the slab - 890 × 510 mm; building felt - 0.7 kg; strapping (corner 30 × 30 × 4 mm - 2.9 m, steel tape 25 × 15 mm - 2 m); smoke damper 130×130 mm. Since there is no oven or hot-box in this stove, laying it down is much easier. If the foundation is made, then level its top.

Having prepared a clay solution, proceed to masonry.

The first row is made from a whole brick in the order indicated in the order. The completed laying of the row is checked for squareness and size.

The second row is also laid from a whole brick. Its laying is simple, only the seams should be tied up well.

The third row is laid like the first, but on the right side of the stove they arrange a blower or an ash pan (box) with the installation of a blower door, resting it on the second row and clamping three-fours on both sides.

The fourth row is similar to the third, but has an outlet on the left side - a channel from which flue gases are directed to a pipe or heating shield. The width of this channel is 140 mm. On the side of the furnace against the channel, a cleaning is laid, which will rest on the third row.

The fifth row is the same as the fourth. The blower door is covered with masonry and only the opening of the ash pan in the form of a box with a size of 260 × 260 mm is left. Later, a grate will be placed above it (the arrows show the smoke outlet into the chimney or shield).

The sixth row is placed in such a way that it covers the outlet channel and a hole 260 × 260 mm in size remains above it, which will be a continuation of the vertical channel. It is marked with a black triangle. At the same time, the blower is narrowed in width to 200 mm, and it remains larger than the width of the grate.

The seventh row is performed as shown in the figure. The vertical channel is narrowed to a size of 260×130 mm. Above the blower with support on the sixth row, a grate is placed, but since it is an existing hole, the bricks laid on both sides are pushed a little into the inside of the furnace against the grate (see section B-B). Four bricks adjacent to the grate are cut off (shaded) to form inclined planes - slopes or bevels along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section A-A). The eighth row forms a firebox 520×260 mm in size with the installation of a furnace door supported by the seventh row.

The ninth and tenth rows are similar to the eighth, they are laid according to the order, with careful dressing of the seams.

The eleventh row is the final one. It is performed strictly horizontally. The furnace door is closed, and the partition or wall separating the vertical channel through which the flue gases enter the outlet channel is not laid out.

The twelfth row as such does not exist. They don't put it on. In this "row" cast-iron flooring is laid on a liquid clay solution. So that the upper bricks of the eleventh row do not get upset, they are fastened with a strapping, that is, a frame bent from a corner of 30 × 30 × 4 mm, and paws or clamps made of tape steel are riveted to it. Clamps are placed two on the long side of the furnace and one each on the wide side. Since this frame with clamps cannot be put on the completed eleventh row, it is installed on the tenth row and fixed on the eleventh. The frame also decorates the oven. It is very good, if possible, to attach staples in the form of long handles from the front and back sides to the frame, on which you can hang wet towels for drying. The frame and brackets should be covered with a fireproof varnish that protects the steel from rusting. If the corner for strapping is made of duralumin or aluminum and of the same staple material, then no coating is required.

This oven works like this. Flue gases from the firebox fall under the cast-iron flooring, from there into the vertical channel, and from it into the outlet and pipe.

After laying the stove, possibly fallen clay mortar is removed through cleaning. Then the purge is closed.

After laying the oven, it is advisable to dry it, leaving all the doors and the valve open. The more the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be.

Stove with oven

The plate (Fig. 50) has a size: length - 1020 mm, width - 640, height - 770 mm. Weight - 650 kg. Heat transfer with two fireboxes per day - 600 kcal / h.

Rice. 50. Cooker with oven: 1 - cleaning; 2 - oven; 3 - firebox; 4 - blower; 5 - felt impregnated with clay mortar and covered with roofing steel; 6 - clay grease 1-1.5 cm thick

Materials: ordinary brick - 175 pieces; ordinary clay - 3 buckets; sand - 2 buckets; grate - 250 × 180 mm; furnace door - 250 × 210 mm; blower and cleaning doors - 130 × 140 mm - 2 pieces; five cast iron composite plates with two burners - 530 × 180 mm; oven - 350 × 350 × 450 mm; two sheets of pre-furnace roofing steel - 50 × 70 mm and under the slab - 1020 × 640 mm; construction felt - 1 kg; strapping (corner 30 × 30 × 4 mm - 3.32 m, steel tape 25 × 15 mm - 1.2 m); smoke damper - 130×130 mm.

Two layers of asbestos or felt soaked in a clay solution are laid on the floor, covered with roofing steel and nailed. Then proceed to the laying of the first row.

The first row is laid according to the drawn figure, but so that it is rectangular. The laying is carried out in order from a whole brick, but the outer row can be made from the whole, and the middle from the halves.

The second row should be laid completely from a whole brick, as shown in the order, observing the dressing of the seams.

The third row is laid out according to the order, leaving room for collecting soot and ash, with the installation of a cleaning door that rests on the second row.

The fourth row requires more complex masonry. There it is necessary to leave a place or a hole in the back wall for attaching the stove to the chimney. Then they put the brick on the edge, forming a partition. There should be a distance of 130 mm between this brick and the masonry inside the oven. This is the future channel through which hot gases will exit from under the oven to the chimney. In this row, a blower is laid, installing a door on the previous row. The corner of the brick at the exit is bevelled, but it is better to round it (the arrows show the places of attachment to the chimney).

The fifth row is similar to the fourth. During the masonry process, the cleaning door is closed. The partition is not installed, since the previously placed brick on the edge is enough for two rows of laying flat. The order has a dotted line indicating the place to install the oven. The number ten indicates that the oven should recede from the masonry wall by 100 mm. The existing blower is left with a size of 260 × 260 mm.

The sixth row is laid in such a way that the oven is first installed on a thin layer of clay mortar along the previously marked lines, then the laying is carried out according to the order. To form two channels (black triangles between the wall of the oven and the oven), they put a brick on the mortar upright, which should be enough for four rows of subsequent masonry. If it is not enough, then add a piece of brick of the desired height. The left large blower is reduced to a size of 260 × 130 mm, which depends on the size of the grate.

The seventh row is laid with the installation of a grate on the sixth row; the bricks adjacent to it are cut off on both sides, forming slopes or slopes so that the fuel rolls onto the grate. So that the oven from the side of the firebox does not quickly burn out, close to it, on a clay mortar, they lay out a brick wall on the edge.

The eighth row is laid according to the order, with the installation of a firebox door measuring from the wall to the door 520 × 260 mm, which is supported on the seventh row.

The ninth row is similar to the previous one, the only difference is in the dressing of the seams.

The tenth row is laid out as shown in the figure. The channel behind the back wall of the oven is blocked and only one is left on the side. When blocking the channel, a whole brick and three-fours are used. The partition between the oven and the firebox is raised 10 or 15 mm above the oven. From the side of the firebox, the partition rib is cut into a cone, best of all with a rounding, which will ensure the rapid movement of gases from the firebox under the cast-iron flooring.

The eleventh row is performed strictly according to the level, since cast-iron flooring must be placed on it. The doors of the oven and firebox are closed. The strength of the upper row of masonry depends on the strapping, which should be installed on this row so that the existing clamps rest on the tenth row. Thus, the laying of the eleventh row fixes the strapping on the slab. After laying this row, only one vertical channel remains. Having laid out this row, the top of the oven is smeared with a clay solution with a layer of 10-15 mm, which will protect it from quick burnout. The layer of clay mortar should be such that after laying the cast-iron flooring there is a space between the oven and the flooring - a channel, at least 70 mm high.

The twelfth row is the final one. It is not laid out, but only cast-iron flooring is made on a thin clay layer and so that one of the burners is above the firebox. This row shows five stoves with two burners.

This plate works like this. The flue gases from the firebox are directed upwards under the cast-iron flooring, from where they enter the vertical channel, go down under the oven, then rise slightly upwards, heat the back wall of the oven and are directed through the hole left into the chimney or heating shield.

Trench stove with oven

The plate is evenly heated from all sides (Fig. 51). It has a size: length - 910 mm, width - 550 and height - 770 mm. It is covered with a whole cast-iron stove with two burners (large and small). Weight - 550 kg. Heat transfer with two fireboxes per day - 900 kcal / h.

They put the slab not directly on the floor, but by lifting it above the floor on the trenches - brick walls 140 mm high. This prevents the floor from heating up, as cold air circulates under the stove all the time. The trenches are laid either directly on a wooden floor, or a wooden shield. In either case, first a sheet of asbestos or two layers of felt soaked in clay mortar and covered with roofing steel are laid on the floor.

In some designs of stoves, one side of the oven, adjacent to the firebox, is lined with brick on edge. In one case, the brick wall protects the metal of the oven from burning through quickly, and in the second, this leads to uneven heating of the oven, which is not always convenient for baking various products. This stove does not have such a drawback, since the safety wall recedes from the oven, in this case by 4 cm, and the oven is not only washed from all sides by gases, but is all in a "bag" of hot gases, keeping warm for a long time.

Materials: ordinary brick - 130 pieces; ordinary clay - 3 buckets; sand - 2 buckets; cast iron plate - 762 × 456 mm; oven - 320 × 270 × 400 mm; blower and furnace doors - 220 × 160 mm - 2 pieces; grate - 250 × 180 mm; cleaning door - 130 × 140 mm; valve - 130 × 130 mm; corner for strapping; roofing steel; felt; steel tape and other materials.

If there is no door for the firebox of this size, then it can be replaced with a larger size (in height), but installed lower - on the eighth or even seventh row and laid inside with a brick so that the threshold is higher than the grate.

The first and second rows are laid on a steel sheet laid on felt. Trench masonry is slightly smaller than the dimensions of the furnace masonry: in width - by 50, in length - by 100 mm.

The third row with a size of 940 × 550 mm is the beginning of the laying of the slab itself. It is placed as shown in the picture.

The fourth row is laid as shown. One brick on the back side of the slab is cut into a cone (shaded) in order to expand the outlet channel (see section B-B) connected to a pipe or heating shield. The gas outlet is shown by an arrow.

The fifth row is laid in the following sequence. First, install the doors for cleaning and blowing, resting them on the fourth row. The back wall is made in a quarter of a brick. At a distance of 18 cm from the left side of the furnace, a wall is laid out in a quarter of a brick. The blower is reduced in length, for which they put bricks on edge. From the back side of the wall, a brick is released into the slab. A brick is laid perpendicular to it. Thus, a wall is formed that looks like the letter G or a boot. It serves as the basis for installing the oven and laying the vertical wall, which is necessary for the formation of a vertical channel between the oven and the right side wall in the future. The edges of the brick under the oven are beveled and rounded. The main dimensions are given in order. In addition, a piece of brick, approximately equal to half, is laid inside the masonry from the side of the left partition. It is necessary to rest the oven on it. Its edges are beveled and rounded.

The sixth row is laid like the fifth, the chimney is blocked, carefully observing the dressing of the seams.

The seventh row is performed according to the order. First of all, install the oven so that it recedes from the right side of the oven by 90 mm, and from the partition on the left side by 40 mm. From the back wall of the oven, but in line with its right side, a partition is placed, thereby forming two channels. One heats the left and back walls of the oven, the other heats the right.

The blower is reduced in length, and its door is blocked.

The eighth row is laid according to the order. The hole above the blower is reduced to such a size that it is blocked by a grate.

The ninth row is done like this. First install the grate and the furnace door. In this row, the laying of the vertical part of the partition between the firebox and the oven is completed.

The tenth row is laid in such a way that initially they block the holes between the partition and the oven with the laying of bricks with an inclination at a certain angle. The sharp edges of the brick are cut off and rounded off. During the masonry process, the channel is blocked on the left side of the oven, and it remains only on the right side.

The eleventh row is performed strictly horizontally with the installation of the strapping. The oven is lubricated from above with clay mortar with a layer of 10-15 mm or thicker, so that the space between the top of the oven and the cast-iron stove is at least 70 mm high.

The twelfth row is the final one. On a thin layer of clay mortar, a cast-iron stove with a large burner is laid above the oven.

Laying a stove with an oven, washed from all sides by gases, is possible for hearths of any design, only increase their length by 40-50 mm, without reducing the size of the channels.

Stove with oven and hot water box

The plate (Fig. 52) has a size: length - 1150 mm, width - 640 and height - 770 mm. Weight - 750 kg, Heat transfer with two fireboxes per day - 900 kcal / h.

Materials: ordinary brick - 185 pieces; ordinary clay - 3.5 buckets; sand - 2.5 buckets; grate - 250 × 180 mm; furnace door - 250 × 210 mm; blower and cleaning doors - 130 × 140 mm - 2 pieces; five cast iron composite plates with two burners 530 × 180 mm; oven 350×530×450 mm; two sheets of roofing steel, pre-furnace - 500 × 700 mm and under the slab - 1150 × 640 mm; building felt - 1.2 kg; hot water box - 150 × 350 × 450 mm, plate binding (angle steel - 30 × 30 × 4 mm - 3.6 m, steel tape - 2.5 × 15 mm - 1.2 m); smoke damper - 130×130 mm. The size of the oven is drawn on the floor. Sheet asbestos or two layers of felt soaked in clay mortar are laid, covered with roofing steel, nailed, the dimensions of the furnace are drawn on it and masonry is started.

The first row is laid according to the order according to the dimensions of the furnace drawn.

The second row is placed in compliance with the dressing of the seams.

The third row is performed in accordance with the order with the cleaning tab necessary to remove ash and soot from under the oven. Cleaning can be of any design.

The fourth row is laid in compliance with all indicated dimensions. In this row, a blower is laid with the installation of a door, resting it on the third row. An outlet is left on the back of the stove for connecting the stove to a pipe or heating shield. Hole size - 140 mm. In the same place, a brick partition is placed on the edge with an indent from the rear wall by 70-80 mm, and from the wall of the blower - by 130 mm. The length of the partition is 350 mm (almost one and a half bricks). To prevent the partition from moving, a piece of brick up to 20 mm thick is laid between it and the back wall, but it can be done without it, or it is first placed and then removed. An oven and a hot-water box are subsequently installed on this partition. The corner of the brick at the hole is beveled into a cone, but it is better to round it (the arrows show the points of attachment to the chimney).

The fifth row is laid like the fourth, with observance of the dressing of the seams. The cleaning is blocked. The dotted lines mark the place for the hot-water box and the oven, leaving a channel between them up to 150 mm wide.

The sixth row begins with the installation of a water box and oven on a thin layer of clay mortar. Between them, a partition is installed on the back side (brick on edge), thus forming two channels. One is between the sides of the hot water box and the oven, the other is on the back sides. During the laying process, the outlet is blocked, and the blower is narrowed to a size of approximately 130 × 260 mm.

Gases will pass through these two channels, heating the hot water box and the oven, which are also raised above the third row of masonry by 140-150 mm, forming the lower third channel. In this case, these appliances heat up from the side, back and bottom sides.

The seventh row begins with the installation of a grate and lining the oven wall, from the side of the firebox, with a brick on edge. When laying a brick around the grate, it is beveled from the back and front sides (shaded, see section B-B). So slopes are formed above the grate. Thus, the grate is 65-75 mm below the furnace opening. The grate is laid with slots along the length of the firebox with a slope to the door by 20-30 mm.

The eighth and ninth rows are laid as shown. Only on the eighth row, a furnace door is installed. The ninth row shows the cuts and dimensions along the width of the oven, hot water box and firebox.

The tenth row during the laying process requires the use of three-fours to block the rear channel so that the brick fits snugly against the water box and oven. In this row, the lining of the oven wall ends, which should be 10-15 mm higher than it. The protruding edges of the brick are cut into a cone, and even better rounded off (see section A-A).

In this row, on the front (front) side of the stove, the width (dimensions) of the walls, appliances and firebox is shown.

The size of the channel between the oven and the hot water box is 150 mm. However, it may be somewhat narrower or wider, depending on the thickness of the seams and some errors in the dimensions of the devices.

The eleventh row is the final one. In the process of laying, a harness or faience is installed and fixed. The hot water box is closed with a brick on top, and only one vertical channel remains. From above the oven is smeared with a clay solution. This row of masonry must be made strictly horizontally, since a cast-iron slab will be laid on it.

The twelfth row has practically no masonry. Only on a thin layer of clay mortar, a stove with burners is laid over the firebox and oven.

All considered kitchen hearths are made with the removal of flue gases from the longitudinal side, but sometimes they have to be positioned so that the gases exit from the end side. Figure 53 shows options for such a gas outlet for a stove with a size of 1150 × 640 mm, that is, with an oven and a hot water box. Here only the fourth - seventh rows are laid out differently, the rest remain unchanged.

As mentioned earlier, stoves are often connected not to a chimney, but to a heating shield. We offer options for connecting a plate with a size of 1150x640 mm to a heating shield with a size of 890X380 mm. It also gives the main dimensions of the area occupied by the plate and the shield (Fig. 54).

A stove with an oven and a water-heating box with a capacity of 100 meals per shift (Fig. 55) is intended for canteens, field camps, hostels. You can arrange it in the kitchen or on the street under a canopy. It has a size: length - 1550 mm, width - 770 and height - 910 mm. Weight - 790 kg. Heat transfer with two fireboxes per day - 900-1000 kcal / h.

Materials: ordinary brick - 200 pieces; ordinary clay - 4.5 buckets; sand - 3.5 buckets; grate - 252 × 300 mm; furnace door - 260 × 240 mm; blower door - 160 × 170 mm; two cleaning doors - 150 × 95 mm; hot water box - 850 × 180 × 420 mm; oven - 650 × 380 × 400 mm; six cast iron composite plates with two burners 55 × 20; steel strip 800×100×3 - mm; corner steel - 30 × 30 × 4 mm - 5.1 linear meters m; pre-furnace sheet - 500 × 700 mm. If the slab is placed on a wooden base, then two layers of felt soaked in a clay solution are placed under it, covered with a steel sheet and fastened with nails.

The oven is laid in the same order as previously described. The strip steel is laid over the frame of the oven in the twelfth row so that the thirteenth row of masonry can be supported on it, on which the composite plates are laid. For the strength of this row, it is lined with faience, which requires angular steel.

The stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely does a private house do without it. The services of professional stove-makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. We will tell you how to properly build a brick oven.

Types of furnaces - classification depending on the parameters

Laying stoves is not an easy task, but anyone with knowledge and patience can handle it. When choosing a furnace, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. First of all, pay attention to its purpose. Heating stoves are intended only for heating, they can accumulate heat and give it away for a long time. To do this, the outer walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole. They slowly warm up and slowly cool down, heat up slightly, massive, high consumption of bricks. They also arrange heating furnaces for rapid heating, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They will not only heat the room, but also cook food. In addition to a cast-iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built in: a water heating boiler, a container for heating water, niches for drying, benches. A Russian oven from this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from ordinary stoves in high efficiency, high heat capacity, keep heat for a long time, stable thrust.

For greater heat transfer, a heating shield is connected to ordinary kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in terms of material costs and labor: it will take up to 200 bricks to heat a small room. A very good option for small cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating shield, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, and a tank for heating water.

Firebox - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device is for a heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke turns. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any furnace is the firebox. Certain requirements are imposed on it, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: for one bookmark to contain almost all the fuel. Air must be supplied in the required volume, a high temperature must be constantly maintained.

With insufficient dimensions of the firebox, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of a brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is intended for firewood. Fuel used affects height: 6–15 rows (42–100 cm). The grate is laid a row or two below the door so that the coals do not fall out. Often the rear is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fireboxes: a - wood-burning; b - peat; c - coal.

A fireclay brick is used for the firebox, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total wall thickness is not less than ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves the quality of combustion. All types of fuel burn well in a wood-burning firebox. For coal, reinforced grates 4 cm thick and good blowing are required, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Smoke circulation - advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to observe the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the inner surface of the smoke circuits. With an excess of gas duct area, the temperature drops so much that condensate appears. A small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases fly into the pipe.

Heat is best absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inner part of the smoke circulations is 1:3.

The cross section, number and location of the smoke circuits determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick, they should ensure the free passage of gases. The cross section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes with an insufficient cross section and does not heat up well with an excessive one. A cross section of 170–250 cm 2 is used for furnace heat transfer of 3 thousand kcal or less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Smoke circuits can have channels (one or more) and be channelless.

Various types of smoke circulation: a - multi-turn vertical; b - multi-turn horizontal; c - single-turn vertical; d - multichannel single-turn; d - channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, there is one lifting channel and the same or several parallel lowering ones. Parallel channels have low resistance to gases, the furnace array warms up more evenly. The single-turn system has a disadvantage, which manifests itself in a much greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. In small furnaces, it is compensated by significant heating of the firebox walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used in which hot gases go through the channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of successive vertical or horizontal channels. The first disadvantage of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous turns. The second disadvantage is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channels, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal - traction, which helps out with a pipe of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the furnace floor be 40 cm from the ceiling of combustible materials. The section of the chimney from the furnace to cutting in the ceiling is called the neck, its smallest height is three rows of bricks. The neck is a place for installing valves or views that are closed at the end of combustion. If you install such devices below, a lot of heat is lost. Gases are thrown out through the chimney, the device of which will be described below.

The choice of furnace - savings, heat dissipation, simplicity and design

Determining the design of the furnace, take into account its ability to meet certain requirements. An important role is played by profitability, when low fuel consumption provides an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, therefore, preference is given to designs that evenly give off heat for 24 hours. These include ovens that warm up well in the lower part.

The maximum surface temperature should not exceed 95°, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design, compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. And finally, the design of the stove should match the overall aesthetic appearance of the room.

But the most important requirement for any stove is the ability to heat all rooms. To do this, heat losses are determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, and the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that each m 3 of a room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25 ° loses 60 kcal / h. One square meter of the furnace is capable of delivering 500 kcal / h.

When calculating, we first determine the heat loss of the house. Suppose you have an ordinary brick cottage 7 × 9 with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. There are 4 separate rooms in total, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First, we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. We multiply by the heat loss of one cubic meter. meters: 157.5 × 60 = 9450. This means that a furnace with a heat output of 1000 kcal / h is needed, some reserve always needs to be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of the floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m 2 of the room.

Accommodation - how to determine the best location

The location of the furnace is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but, nevertheless, general recommendations should be taken into account. First of all, the stove in the house should give maximum heat. If it is planned to heat one room, the stove is installed at a small distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then two of the four sides will give up heat energy. In diagrams a, b, you can see the layout options with an air gap near the wall, which is also called a retreat.

If the furnace design will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option is when to build it in a partition (the same figure, c). Heating is also possible for three adjacent rooms, as in the figure, Mr. The stove is also located in the common room for all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, the rest have two. Figures e, e show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the back room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a dwelling of four rooms, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions, so that one wall of the heating device goes into each of the rooms. This option provides an opportunity to heat from the kitchen, living room, veranda, without bringing garbage into the bedroom. Rough with a bench is great for giving with several rooms. The lounger is taken out to any room that the owner prefers.

Foundation device - a reliable foundation for the furnace

After determining the design and choosing a location, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done at the same time as the foundation of the building. In the case of building a furnace in an already erected house, we disassemble the floor and fill it. Putting even the smallest and lightest oven on a wooden floor does not make sense. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and logs begin to deteriorate, sag, and the stove will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation is made larger than the dimensions of the furnace by 30 cm in all directions.

It is imperative to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not come into contact with the foundation of the walls, between them we provide a gap of at least 5 cm. The space between the two foundations is filled with heat-insulating material. Separate foundations will provide independent settling of the walls of the building and the furnace. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to a skew.

To reduce the heat from the furnace to the ground, we lay thermal insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a plate of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil, tin. From above, again, a heater, on it - sheet metal. We soak the felt in clay milk and crown it with a layer of insulation. When it dries, we start laying. Such reliable thermal insulation will protect against heat loss even in the most severe conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - cooking secrets

Brick ovens are laid out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, perfectly adheres to brick. To achieve maximum qualities from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, we remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is located, pour a little water from below. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another dish until the required volume of solution is reached.

We soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. Fall asleep 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. After a day, stir, if necessary, add water and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the furnace solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without a trace. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution; if this happens, we add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of brick laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3–5 mm.

The solution must be of the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, we take clay in five identical portions. In four, we add a different amount of sand: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. We knead the solution from each part, make pancakes out of them and dry them. We define quality by touch and appearance. If the pancake crumbles, there is an excess of sand in it, in a cracked pancake there is not enough of it. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has the optimal ratio of its constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

There are many secrets in laying brick ovens with your own hands that only experienced craftsmen know and unknown to beginners. First of all, it concerns the choice of bricks. Ceramic bricks of a brand not lower than M-250 are used, which are more expensive than conventional M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous, able to withstand constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it, ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The inner walls of the firebox are laid out with refractory bricks, which can withstand 1200 °. But behind it is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650 °. With strong heating of the firebox, the temperature is transferred to it, reducing the service life. To prolong the life of red brick in the firebox, it is isolated from refractory basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

It takes a lot of time to control the solution on the facing row. To make the work go faster, masking tape is glued to the front of the brick, which is then removed. The facing row comes out nice and neat. Experienced stove-makers are advised not to bother with the preparation of a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for stoves. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any jumper, overheating and other elements if you use a metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using corners on the front side. In addition to being ugly, there is a high probability of getting burned if you accidentally touch it. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used, which fix the front trim.

You can extend the life of the furnace if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Each stove maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple trick: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular ones. Mortar is laid between two bars, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks must not be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. The rods are lubricated with machine oil before use to make it easier to remove from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

A pipe is usually installed on the stove in the house, which consists of a neck, fluff at the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter at the roof and a head. The fluff protects the wooden products of the ceiling and roof from heating and possible fire during the fire. In these places, the pipe is made thickened, gradually letting in bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick rows, but they should not overlap the inside of the chimney.

In the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will prevent rain and snow from entering the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are launched under the ledges of the otter. Crowns the chimney head. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance of up to 3 m from the ridge, the top of the head is leveled with the ridge. At a greater distance, the height should be ensured at an angle of no more than 10 ° with respect to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It rises with an increase in the temperature of the outgoing gases, but it is not economically feasible to do so, so the pipe is driven out to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface also increases traction, the absence of cracks in the brickwork. To eliminate the influence of wind that can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Swede - the best option for a heating and cooking stove

The design is checked up by centuries, small-sized and economical. With dimensions of 880 × 1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it can heat more than 30 m 2. Typically, a firebox with a stove is located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove goes into the living room. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to heat with small portions of large coal or pellets, firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in the heating season is 1.5 tons.

For the construction we stock up:

• brick M-150 - 570 pieces;
• 200 kg dry mortar;
• 1.7 m of steel corner 40 × 40;
• 0.65 m of steel strip 5×50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard appliances for the stove: a grate, a firebox door, a blower, a cast-iron stove with burners, latches - 2, cleaning - 3. The order of the Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

An important structural element is the oven, which plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter operation. It works as an aerodynamic barrier to the gases leaving the firebox. Gases linger in it, completely burning under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels, they warm up the furnace well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the furnace is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed, hot air from the niche goes into the room. In summer, the kitchen, with the right firebox, heats up no more than from a gas stove. Fuel in small quantities in the summer heats up the hob well, as the gases are retained by the oven. The burner on the left heats up more, on the right - less, but enough for cooking.

Dutch woman - a small-sized furnace device with high heat transfer

This is a unique simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to rapid heating. It attracts even the owners of stylish modern cottages with its grace and efficiency. When laying a Dutch oven, any variations are possible, which will not adversely affect its effectiveness.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 refractory ones. The main material is a brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox, it is imperative to use refractory bricks. Warms up quickly, cools down slowly, fuel is consumed sparingly. The Dutchwoman is able to heat up to 70 m 2.

As can be seen from the scheme, the Dutch oven does not have a grate, the fuel is loaded into the furnace, the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved through a special device for smoke circulation. The gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return through the second channel. There they heat up again and go to the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels, the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel the gases go into the chimney.

Cooking ovens include stoves of various designs. They come in various sizes and serve only for cooking. Connect kitchen stoves to root or tube pipes.

Brick cookers

Kitchen stoves according to their design can be divided into simple, medium complexity and complex.

A simple stove has a furnace and blower door, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Cookers of medium complexity have, in addition to the above stove appliances, an oven, and complex stoves also have a hot-water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot-water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the hot water box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the instruments.

Stove with double camphor stove and oven

In a simple kitchen stove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast-iron stove, and then through the hole under the pipe they are discharged into the chimney.

In the rest of the stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, descending, heat the walls of the oven or one wall of the hot-water box, and then are discharged into the pipe, while heating the bottom wall of the oven, the bottom and other wall of the hot-water box.

The above stoves do not have a cooking chamber, so during cooking, steam and smell are released into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of cuts and ordering of an improved design cooker, in which a cooking chamber is provided, connected to the pipe by means of a ventilation duct blocked by a ventilation valve.

simple cooker

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).

For laying the stove, the following materials are needed:

• red brick - 120 pcs.;
• red clay - 50 kg;
• sand - 40 kg;
• grate - 28 × 25 cm;
• furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
• blower door - 25 × 14 cm;
• cast iron stove for two burners - 70 × 40 cm;
• plate binding (corner 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
• roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160 × 510 mm;
• construction felt - 1 kg;

One stove-maker can fold a simple stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney), in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. calculating half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).

The heat output of a simple stove with two meals a day is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal / h).

The figure below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple kitchen stove. Next, masonry drawings will be given in rows (ordering). From the sections and drawings of the masonry in rows, it can be seen that the masonry of a simple stove does not present any difficulties.

Sections of a simple kitchen stove: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); c - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash chamber; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke damper; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).

Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove appliances.

Having prepared a clay-sand mortar, they begin laying a simple stove. If the slab is placed on the foundation, then level it up. When laying a slab on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Put a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and in its absence - two layers of building felt, well soaked in a clay-sand mortar, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then, from a whole brick, a platform is made in two rows of masonry on a clay-sand mortar. After that, they start laying the slab from the first row strictly in order.

First row lay, observing the rules for dressing seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.

The first row of a simple kitchen oven

During laying second row they arrange a blower, install a blower door, which is attached to the masonry with the help of furnace wire. Temporarily, the front blower door can be supported with bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash chamber is 380 × 250 mm.

Second row kitchen oven

Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well bandaged.

Third row

Fourth row covers the blower door, while leaving only the opening of the ash chamber with a size of 250 × 250 mm, on which the grate is laid. If possible, laying from the fourth row is preferably made of refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.

Laying of the fourth row. Shaded bricks are refractory. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Fifth row forms a firebox with a size of 510 × 250 mm. The brick adjacent to the grate at the back is cut off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section B-B along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install a furnace door, after attaching paws from roofing steel to it with rivets.

Masonry of the fifth row of the furnace

Sixth row stack in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.

Masonry of the sixth row of the furnace

Seventh row placed as shown in the figure below. This row leaves the chimney under the stove, connecting the firebox to the chimney.

Seventh oven row

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally, this row closes the furnace door. A cast-iron slab is laid on the laid out eighth row with a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Factory-made cast iron slabs have protrusions or stiffeners on the underside, which recede 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.

Eighth row oven

The internal dimensions of the masonry of the eighth row should be such that the slab freely enters it with its ribs and has a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides, designed to expand the metal when it is heated. If this is not observed, then the cast-iron stove, expanding, will destroy the furnace masonry. In order for the masonry to be strong, a corner steel harness is laid on the eighth row. It is desirable to cover the frame with a refractory varnish, which protects the steel from rust.

After masonry ninth row using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar, a smoke damper is installed. This row is the final one, followed by the laying of the chimney.

The final row of a simple kitchen oven

Cooker works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox enter under the cast-iron stove, then through the hole under the chimney through the flue valve are discharged into the chimney.
There is no cleaning hole in the stove, since you can clean the chimney through the hole under the pipe, where it is easy to put your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.

Example of laying a hob

Firstly, in the stove, the furnace door is installed flush with the grate. In the stove, flue gases constantly maintain a high temperature in the chimney, as a result of which it is not necessary to lay thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with such an installation of the furnace door, the distance from the grate to the cast-iron stove will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.

After finishing the laying of the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The stove can be dried with small test fires, but after test fires, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.

After complete drying, the stove is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.

Exterior finish is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing a cast-iron slab, as well as before installing the corner steel trim, the kitchen stove is walled up on all sides in a roofing steel case (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the size of the furnace and blower doors. The case near the floor is fixed with a plinth, which is nailed around the stove. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and covered with oven varnish, which withstands high temperatures well.

In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from each other. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be bent onto the plinth.

Cooker with oven

The kitchen stove with oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
For laying a stove with an oven, the following materials are needed:

• red brick - 140 pcs.;
• red clay - 60 kg;
• sand - 50 kg;
• grate - 26 × 25 cm;
• furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
• blower door - 14 × 25 cm;
• cleaning doors 130 × 140 mm - 2 pcs.;
• cast-iron stove of five composite plates measuring 53 × 18 cm with two burners;
• smoke damper - 130 × 130 mm;
• oven - 45x31x28 cm;
• plate binding (corner 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
• pre-furnace sheet of roofing steel - 500 × 700 mm;
• roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290 × 640 mm;
• building felt - 1.2 kg;
• metal box for collecting ash in the ash chamber - 350x230x100 mm.

One stove-maker can fold this oven within 3-4 hours, additionally it takes about 2 hours to bring the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. The heat transfer of the stove during two-time cooking is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal / h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and transverse sections of a stove with an oven. The following are drawings of the order of each row. Laying a stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple stove, but here you have to install an oven and cleaning doors.

Cooker with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), C-C, G-D (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash chamber; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke damper; 7 - furnace door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.

When laying the slab on an independent foundation, before starting work, its top is leveled with a layer of clay-sand mortar.

When installing the slab on the floor, before laying the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.

masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, while strictly adhering to the rule of dressing the seams. The length of the stove should correspond to the length of five bricks, the width - to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.

Laying the first row of a stove with an oven

Second row spread, strictly following the order. An ash chamber measuring 380 × 250 mm is left here, a blower door is installed and fixed, cleaning holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, install cleaning doors with a size of 130 × 140 mm. At the cleaning hole extreme from the ash chamber, a brick is laid on the edge, as shown in the laying order. For better fixing of the oven in the middle of the place of its installation, put half a brick on the edge.

Laying the second row of slabs

Third row similar to the previous one, only the rule of dressing the seams should be observed.

Masonry of the third row of the slab

Fourth row covers the blower and cleaning doors. After finishing the laying of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar at a pre-marked place. After that, a grate is installed. The same row of bricks installed on the edge block the chimney into the chimney.

Masonry of the fourth row of stove with oven

During laying fifth row the furnace door is installed and fixed, the brick is cut off before being installed behind the grate so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during the combustion process.

Masonry of the fifth row of the slab

Sixth row similar to the fifth.

Masonry of the sixth row of the slab

Seventh row laid out in order. The resulting chimney channel from the front side is laid with the help of three bricks, as a result of which the internal size of the formed channel under the chimney will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row, a steam outlet pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm is visible at the oven, which connects the oven to the ascending channel. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.

Masonry of the seventh row of a stove with an oven. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally in level. This closes the oven and the furnace door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay mortar up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from rapid burnout.

Laying the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing a cast-iron stove)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay coating and the cast-iron plate be at least 70 mm. After that, a cast-iron slab and brickwork made of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.

Eighth row of a brick oven (after installing a cast-iron stove)

After masonry ninth row only the laying of the vertical channel remains. The ninth row is laid according to the image below.

Ninth oven row

After masonry tenth row install a smoke damper.

Tenth oven row

Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe is not difficult.

The final row of the furnace (does not take into account the laying of the chimney)

A stovetop with an oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from the back on both sides, fall under the oven and are directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising along the vertical channel, they enter the chimney through the smoke valve and are removed into the atmosphere.

Cooker with oven and hot water box

For laying a cooker with an oven and a hot water box measuring 1290x640 mm, the same materials are needed as for the previous stove. Additionally, you should purchase a hot water box with a size of 510x280x120 mm.

The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.

Cooker with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - cuts. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - hot water box; 5 - smoke damper; 6 - ash chamber; 7 - piping made of angle steel

The cooker with oven and hot water box is placed in the same order as the cooker with oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a brick partition, a hot-water box in a case is installed on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel. The height of the hot water box must correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. Otherwise, the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a stove with an oven.

Improved Design Cooker with Oven and Hot Water Box

Cooking stoves in rural areas not only cook food for people, but also boil livestock feed, boil laundry for washing. During the furnace, a lot of steam enters the room and extraneous unpleasant odors are emitted. Because of this, the humidity in the room increases, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, in order to remove foreign odor and steam in cookers, it is desirable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation valve must be installed in the ventilation duct.

Installing a double-leaf door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food in it hot for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The firebox and blower (ash chamber) are closed from the outside with the corresponding doors. The upper surface of the oven is protected from hot gases by a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay a stove from the fourth to the ninth row from refractory bricks (especially the firebox).

An example of an ash pan cover

It is desirable to make a kitchen stove up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to enhance its strength, after mounting the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install a trim of angular steel. Since the mass of such a plate will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If it is not possible to build an independent foundation, the floor must be reinforced with additional beams that are mounted on brick columns. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hardwood logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.

The cooker of an improved design has a “forward” stroke valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, evaporation of water in the hot water box is possible. To stop this, it is necessary to add a little cold water to it and open the “direct” stroke valve. At the same time, flue gases from under the cast-iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the hot water box ceases to warm up, the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a "forward" stroke valve

For the convenience of cleaning the ash chamber from ash, a special box made of roofing steel with a size of 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash chamber from ash.

A cooker of this design has the following advantages compared to the previous cooker with an oven and a water box:

• during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the vent;
• food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not turn sour during the day;
• With the help of a “direct” stroke valve, it is possible to cook food without heating the hot water box and thereby preventing further evaporation of water in it.

The figure below shows a general view of the stove from the front, here are also drawings of the cuts of the stove in the most difficult places. Drawings of masonry in rows will be further, and they give a comprehensive idea of ​​​​the internal structure of the slab. Using the orders and drawings in rows, you can fold the slab yourself, without the help of a stove-maker.

Stove with an oven and a hot water box of an improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections C-C, G-D, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - furnace door; 3 - oven; 4 - door of the cooking chamber; 5 - smoke damper; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - valve of the "direct" stroke; 8 - hot water box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron plate.

The kitchen stove with an oven and a water-heating box of an improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are required for laying:

• red brick - 250 pcs.;
• refractory brick - 80 pcs.;
• red clay - 180 kg;
• sand - 90 kg;
• furnace door - 250 × 210 mm;
• blower door - 250 × 140 mm;
• grate - 280 × 250 mm;
• oven with a size of 250x280x450 mm;
• cast iron stove with two burners - 700 × 400 mm;
• hot water box - 250x140x510 mm;
• pre-furnace sheet - 500 × 700 mm;
• steel strip size 400x250x6 mm;
• door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
• corner steel for strapping a plate measuring 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
• steel strip for overlapping the cooking chamber with a size of 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

A stove can be put together by one stove-maker within 18-20 hours, an additional 6 hours are required to prepare the solution and bring the material.

To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to consider the drawings with the help of a mirror placed with an edge on the drawing.

The kitchen stove is laid out as follows. masonry first row produced on a foundation erected to floor level. The first row defines the main dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of the laying of five bricks on a clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.

First row of improved cooker with oven and hot water box

During laying second row two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed in front. They are attached to the masonry with the help of furnace wire.

Masonry of the second row of the furnace; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.

masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a water-heating box is installed.

Masonry of the third row of the furnace; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.

fireman fourth row they are laid from refractory bricks, in its absence, sorted first-class red bricks are used. The fourth row covers the cleaning holes and the blower door, forming the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, a grate and an oven are installed.

Masonry of the fourth row of the furnace

masonry fifth row presents no difficulty. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut halfway to form an inclined plane.

Masonry of the fifth row of the furnace; 3 - oven.

Before masonry sixth row the furnace door is prepared, for which strip steel is attached with rivets above and below, which should be 10 cm longer on both sides of the furnace door. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with furnace wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand mortar, having previously wrapped the frame of the furnace door with asbestos fiber.

Masonry of the sixth row

Masonry seventh row fix the base of the furnace door.

Masonry of the seventh row

Eighth row covers the water box.

Eighth row masonry

Ninth row covers the furnace door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is desirable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.

Ninth row masonry

After the completion of the laying of the ninth row, a cast-iron stove is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main plate, an additional one is placed, made of steel sheet measuring 400x200x6 mm. After that, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie angle steel through special holes in it with furnace wire, which is attached to the masonry.

Installation of a cast-iron stove on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angle steel.

Tenth row made of ordinary red brick. On the right side, a window is left for cleaning the channel of the “direct” stroke. Part of the bricks that overlap the slab are hewn with a pick before laying, so that in the event of a slab breakdown, it can be easily replaced.

Tenth row masonry

masonry eleventh row does not present difficulties, it is only necessary to follow the rules for dressing the seams.

Eleventh row of the furnace

Twelfth row covers the purge window.

The twelfth row of the furnace

After masonry tthirteenth row on a clay-sand solution, a “direct” stroke valve is installed.

The thirteenth row of the furnace; 6 - ventilation valve.

masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Next to the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber, an angular steel measuring 45x45x800 mm is installed.

The fourteenth row of the furnace

Fifteenth row closes the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth row of the furnace

Sixteenth row blocks the channel of the "direct" course.

Masonry of the sixteenth row of the kitchen stove

masonry seventeenth row provides a ventilation channel to remove odor and steam from the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove

After finishing laying eighteenth row four pieces of strip steel 4x45x500 mm in size are installed above the cooking chamber to cover the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the eighteenth row of the kitchen stove

Nineteenth row covers the cooking chamber. After the laying of this row is completed, a ventilation valve is installed.

Masonry of the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.

masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows is not difficult, only the seams should be well bandaged.

Masonry of the twentieth row of the kitchen stove

Laying the twenty-first row

masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130 × 130 mm.

Laying the twenty-second row

twenty third and twenty fourth ranks put in order.

23rd oven row

twenty-fourth row

After masonry twenty fifth row install a smoke damper, which is also an adjustment valve.

Laying the twenty-fifth row of the furnace; 5 - smoke damper.

Masonry twenty-sixth row start the chimney. Laying a chimney is not difficult.

Masonry of the final row (not counting the chimney)

After finishing the laying of the furnace, before coating it, the chimneys are cleaned from the fallen mortar residues and crushed stone through the cleaning holes. Holes for cleaning are then laid with brick halves on a clay-sand mortar.

When installing the cleaning doors, they are tightly closed, the leaks are covered with a clay-sand mortar.

After that, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the furnace and blower doors and valves or by small trial furnaces. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, and after the plaster has dried, a double whitewash is made. In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor.

Do-it-yourself brick cooking oven: step-by-step masonry instructions + photo