Homemade construction cyclone vacuum cleaner. Homemade cyclone filter from pvc sewer pipes Do-it-yourself cyclone filter for construction purposes drawings

A very simple Cyclone made from improvised materials, does its job of maintaining a homemade CNC router.

On the video: the first inclusion, the test showed that the lower bottle needs to be stiffened, which is done.

Materials and tools:
1. Old working vacuum cleaner and two hoses to it
PVC sewer pipes D=100mm, D=40mm
pipe sample


2. Thin sheet metal ~ 0.2-0.5mm or roofing metal profile (should be straightened with a hammer)
3. Two 2.5 liter plastic bottles with corks, a 5 liter eggplant.
4. Scissors for metal, el. drill, drill bits, paper scissors, knife, PVC tape, hot glue gun, riveter and rivets
5. Welding electrodes or similar rods 6 pieces, wide adhesive tape, pencil

Purpose:
The Cyclone filter is designed for coarse cleaning of the intake air, it removes heavy fractions before the air enters the pump turbine impeller. Thanks to this, it is possible to suck in fairly large debris, chips, wood chips and it will not damage or clog the pump impeller when using a vacuum cleaner without a bag or bag.

Application:
For collecting chips from the working area of ​​the machine, drill, electric planer, saw, etc.

An example of the use of this homemade Cyclone Works with CNC router


The principle of operation of the Cyclone is shown in the figure below.


The sucked-in air with debris is twisted into a high-speed spiral vortex, large particles are pressed by centrifugal force against the pipe wall and spirally slide under their own weight into the collection bottle.

Manufacturing:
We cut PVC pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. straight cut 400-500 mm. , flat, without fasteners section, this will be the body of the Cyclone.


Cut off from a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm. cut to 100 mm. shorter than the body (this is the outlet to the vacuum cleaner) and a length of 150 mm. (dust suction). We draw three identical circles on sheet metal, with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the body pipe, it is convenient to circle directly through the pipe with a pencil, in the center of these circles we draw more circles equal to the outer diameter of a thin pipe, circle around the pipe with a pencil.

[u] Scheme


We cut out the circles with scissors for metal, then cut the circles to the middle, as in the diagram, cut out the inner circles. We connect the resulting circles with the help of rivets into a single spiral. We put it on a thin pipe, distribute the turns evenly and additionally glue everything with hot glue from a gun.






Now we put the neatly obtained design of the spiral into the body, if necessary, we cut the hooks, leaving the protrusion outward as in the diagram.


In the upper part of the body pipe, we drill a hole for the pipe (suction), we correct it with a knife to get the correct oval, for tight fastening of the pipe.


We insert the pipe and direct it as in the diagram, tangentially, we glue everything well from the gun.


We cut out the cap with scissors from a five-liter eggplant, remove the threaded neck, adjust the hole for a tight entry of the D-40 mm pipe, put it on the body and glue it at the top and bottom with hot glue.


We cut off 2/3 of the length of the 2.5 liter bottle and put it on the bottom of the case, glue it.

Recently, I have become interested in working with wood and the question of removing chips and sawdust has become very acute. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace is being solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly clogs and stops sucking. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I reviewed many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turned out, quite workable dust collectors can be made from improvised materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner from a plastic bottle

Here is another mini venturi vacuum cleaner idea
such a vacuum cleaner works from forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is the drop in pressure when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746–1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of the Bernoulli law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between the speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the considered fluid element is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the free fall acceleration.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two flow sections, then we will have:

For a horizontal flow, the middle terms on the left and right sides of the equation are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition, in those places of the flow where the average fluid velocity is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and hence the pressure decreases).

Application
The Venturi effect is observed or used in the following objects:
  • in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for products of the oil and chemical industries;
  • in burners that mix air and combustible gases in a grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
  • in Venturi tubes - narrowing elements of Venturi flowmeters;
  • in Venturi flowmeters;
  • in water aspirators of the ejector type, which create small vacuums using the kinetic energy of tap water;
  • atomizers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or air aromatization.
  • carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
  • in automated swimming pool cleaners that use water pressure to pick up sediment and debris;
  • in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

And now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from improvised materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But this option I liked the most, as it is a reduced analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1



Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to stop at just such a structure, assembled from plastic sewer pipes. A definite plus is the availability and cheapness of the material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes


Please pay attention to the mistake that the master made. The garbage collection pipe should be located like this:

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows a similar design in action:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

Today we will tell you about the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment is quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's not difficult at all.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed

In the workshop, there is almost always a need to remove garbage of a sufficiently large fraction. Sawdust, small scraps, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but with a high probability it will quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind specks of different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the garbage manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at a sufficient speed.

Such filters are included in the kit of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost cannot be called affordable for the layman. At the same time, the range of tasks solved with the help of home-made devices is not at all narrower. A handicraft cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planers, perforators or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or chips from various types of machines. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference Between Wet and Dry Cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the tank does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the tank or tangentially to the walls. The exhaust channel, according to a similar principle, is recommended to be made rotatable, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, the cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With a liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and the cyclone is partially rarefied, which contributes to the evaporation of moisture and its breakdown into very small drops. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

In most washing vacuum cleaners, air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

We make from improvised materials

The simplest and most affordable option for a cyclone tank would be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 watts.

The bucket lid must be intact and hermetically put on the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be finalized by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the desired diameter is to use a homemade compass. Two self-tapping screws must be screwed into a wooden rail so that their tips are 27 mm apart from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, it is desirable that they be as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic are excellently scratched with such a home-made tool, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. In advance, we draw your attention to the fact that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. The knee is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is pre-applied under the side.
  2. On the reverse side, a rubber sealing ring is pulled with force onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow turning part inside the bucket, the socket is on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee must be provided with another turn at 45º and directed obliquely down and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with the expectation of wet cleaning, the extreme elbow should be increased by cutting the pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the opposite position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one knee into it so that the air intake occurs at the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Do not forget about the o-rings, for more reliable fixation and to prevent turning of the knees, they can be wrapped with plumbing tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when working with hand and stationary tools, a system of adapters is required. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the nozzles for power tool dust bags. In extreme cases, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment, everything is more complicated. Dust vents have a very different configuration, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

  1. If the dust extraction of the machine is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a diameter of 50 mm to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
  2. For docking with a dust trap of home-made machines, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
  3. When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool for greater efficiency. For example: the branch pipe for removing sawdust from a circular saw should be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
  4. Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for a band saw or milling cutter. Use 50mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone is not chosen independently, but the one that is available is used. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally fit the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, a shorter segment must be joined to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer section, in this form, is refueled into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection with silicone sealant or plumbing tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with the o-ring.

In the video, another example of the manufacture of a cyclone for dust removal in the workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the extreme part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it in. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hair dryer or an indirect flame of a gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving stream.

If a person has his own workshop, then one of the most important issues is cleaning the premises. But unlike dusting in an apartment, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for construction waste and sawdust - its garbage tank (dust collector or bag) will clog very quickly and become unusable. Therefore, a home-made cyclone filter is often used, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean the workshop.

Introduction

Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, in fact, they are fraught with many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, prolonged work without protective equipment that prevents dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications with the respiratory tract, worsen the sense of smell, etc. In addition, tools that are in the workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This happens because:

  1. dust, mixed with the lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, resulting in overheating and further breakage
  2. dust can impede the rotation of the moving parts of the tool, which leads to additional loads, overheating and failure,
  3. dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, as a result of overheating, deformation and failure again.

Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning of the premises is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which does not allow dust to spread throughout the workshop. In any case, a vacuum cleaner (or chip blower) is needed for the dust removal process!

There are good industrial vacuum cleaners, and if possible, it is better to choose the best option for price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.

However, there are times when you already have a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste in the room. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it is done in half an hour with all the necessary elements.

Principle of operation

There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but all of them are united by the same principle of operation. All designs of cyclone chip blowers consist of three main parts:

  • household vacuum cleaner
  • Cyclone filter
  • Waste container

Its design is such that the flow of intake air is directed in a circle and its rotational movement is obtained. Accordingly, the construction debris contained in this air stream (these are large and heavy fractions) is affected by centrifugal force, which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the action of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.

The disadvantage of a cyclone vacuum cleaner is that only dry garbage can be collected in this way, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems when sucking such a substance.

The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal operation it is supposed to suck air through a standard hose. In the case of using an additional cyclone filter, an additional filter appears in the air path, and the total length of the duct is more than doubled due to the additional duct. Since the design turns out to be as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose must be sufficient for comfortable work.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but for this you need to check the availability of everything necessary for the production of a chip blower with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.

Instruments

The following tools will be needed to carry out the work:

  1. electric drill,
  2. screwdriver,
  3. jigsaw,
  4. compass,
  5. clamps,
  6. crosshead screwdriver,
  7. pencil,
  8. on wood (50-60mm),
  9. kit .

Materials and fasteners

Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;

  1. The air duct (hose) for the vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
  2. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100-150 mm, at one end of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner should be inserted.
  3. Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100–200 mm long, at one end of which the air duct specified in paragraph 1 will be inserted in the future.
  4. Bucket ("large") plastic 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
  5. Bucket ("small") plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum bucket diameters is approximately 60–70 mm.
  6. Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be greater than the maximum diameter of the Big Bucket.
  7. Self-tapping screws for wood with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
  8. Gel sealant universal.

Table of standard sizes of round plastic buckets.

Volume, l Cover diameter, mm Height, mm
1,0 125 115
1,2 132 132
2,2 160 150
2,3 175 133
2,6 200 124
3,0 200 139
3,4 200 155
3,8 200 177
3,8 200 177
5,0 225 195
11 292 223
18 326 275
21 326 332
26 380 325
33 380 389

Making a cyclone filter

Creating a homemade chip blower consists of a number of steps:

  1. Creating a retaining ring and curly insert
  2. Retaining ring installation
  3. Installing the side pipe
  4. Setting the top entry
  5. Curly insert installation
  6. Assembling the cyclone filter

Creating a retaining ring and curly insert

It is necessary to cut off the side of the small bucket, which is used to attach the lid. As a result, you should get such a cylinder (well, a little on a cone).

We make the markup - put a small bucket on and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.

Then we determine the center of this circle (see the school geometry course) and mark out another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark the ring and the curly insert, as shown in the figure.

Retaining ring installation

We fix the ring on the edge of the small bucket so that we get a rim. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes so as not to split.

We mark the roof of a large bucket. For marking, you need to put the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and circle its outline. Marking is best done with a felt-tip pen, as the trace is clearly visible.

It is important to note that all connections must be airtight, respectively, before installing the cover, the connection must be smeared with sealant. You also need to smear the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.

Installing the side pipe

The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the top of the small bucket with a crown. Note that the bottom of the small bucket is now the top.

Setting the top entry

To make the top entry, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip cutter (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.

For a strong fixation of the inlet pipe, it is necessary to use an additional strength element in the form of a square blank made of 20 mm thick with a central hole for a 50 mm pipe.

This workpiece is fastened from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, for tightness, the joint must be smeared with sealant.

Curly insert installation

The shaped insert is a very important component of a homemade chip blower, it must be fixed inside the cyclone filter, as shown in the photo.

Assembling the cyclone filter

Then you need to connect the air ducts correctly:

  1. Upper nozzle - to a household vacuum cleaner
  2. Angled elbow entering from the side at an angle - to the hose.

Homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner (chip blower) is ready.

Video

Video for this review:

Very often, during installation work with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. First of all, this is due to the processes of wall chasing.

You can’t use home-made household models for this business, otherwise you will ruin them on the very first day of work. Their dust containers will fill up very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself will overheat.

Only professional craftsmen who daily earn this type of activity can afford to buy a building one, which costs quite a lot of money.

But what if you are not a builder and you need such a device only to complete the repair of electricians in your apartment? In this case, there is only one optimal way out - to independently make a construction vacuum cleaner from an ordinary one.

Moreover, in time for such an alteration, it will take you only a few minutes. And the materials that are required for this can be easily found in the pantry, or purchased in addition at the nearest plumbing store.

Let's take a closer look at two very similar methods, which nevertheless have constructive differences between them.

Homemade cyclone from a household vacuum cleaner

The first method has been presented on the Internet and on YouTube for quite some time. You can easily find many videos with similar homemade cyclones.

However, they cause quite legitimate questions and skepticism among professional builders. Therefore, you should immediately make a reservation that they are mostly suitable for cleaning wood chips.

But it is better not to work with cement dust with such devices. Under it, the second option is more “imprisoned”.

The main "trick" that will allow you to calmly suck in kilograms of garbage, wood, metal filings and at the same time not worry about the frequent change of filter bags, is a home-made "separator".

It will then need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:

A bucket of Shitrok putty is best here. It is harder to flatten it with a vacuum.




First of all, drill or carefully cut a through hole for the tube in the center of the bucket lid.

Mark the second hole closer to the edges of the cover, where the stiffener is.

If you do not have a special crown, then first pierce the intended circle with an awl and carefully cut it with a clerical knife.

The edges will be uneven, but they can be processed with a round file.

Two sewer outlets are inserted into these holes. So that they hold securely and there is no additional air leakage, it is better to glue them.

To do this, first sand the edges of the tube with sandpaper or a file to create a rough surface.

Do the same operation with the lid.

After that, insert the tube inside the cover and apply a thick layer of glue with a thermal gun.

Don't feel sorry for Clay. This will help create good tightness in these places and tightly close all the cracks.

There is really another option in which you can do without glue and fan pipes at all. To do this, purchase rubber adapters from Leroy Merlin.

They come in different diameters. Choose according to your hose size.

For example, a tube from a 35mm hose is tightly inserted into a 40/32 coupling. But in a 40mm pipe it will hang out. We'll have to wind up something and collective farm.

On the tube that is located on the edge of the cover, put on a sewer outlet at 90 degrees.

On this, the design of the separator can be said to be almost ready. Install the lid with taps on the bucket.

The air intake hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the central hole.

And the piece with which you will collect all the garbage and dust is stuck into the corner joint.

It is desirable that o-rings be present in the tubes according to the size of the corrugated hoses of the vacuum cleaner.

This completes the entire assembly. You can plug the vacuum cleaner into the network and use it.

Here is a visual video from the inside of a bucket of a similar design. It clearly shows how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner.

The principle of operation here is the following. Coarse dust sucked into the container falls to the bottom of the container. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where the air is pumped out directly.

Three factors help in this matter:

  • gravity
  • friction
  • centrifugal force

They then make the garbage rotate inside the bucket, clinging to its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the fine fraction goes directly into the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner.

Typically, such a cyclone on factory designs has the shape of a cone, but cylindrical specimens also often do a good job with this task.

True, the higher the bucket, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct pairing of the design of the container and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is a plate from Chinese cyclones on the correct selection of the diameter of the hoses and the power of the units.

In cylindrical buckets, the tangential air flow enters not through a curved side wall, but through a flat lid. It is much easier to assemble such a device.

Also, if you have several buckets, you can use them one by one. Just take the cover off one and put it on the other. And this is even easier to do than in bulky cyclones.

If you have a powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic emulsion paint bucket, it is better to use a metal tank of the same shape. Otherwise, the bucket will collapse and flatten it.

The power regulator comes to the rescue in this case. If it is of course present in your model.

Why does the vacuum cleaner still fail?

With this method, all fine dust will enter the vacuum cleaner bag, and more or less large fractions will simply settle and remain in the bucket. As homemade assure, more than 95% of construction waste settles in the separator and only 5% goes directly into the dust collector of a household vacuum cleaner.

However, the thing is that even these 5% can gradually kill the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even for industrial cyclones, the declared efficiency is rarely more than 90%, and what about do-it-yourself products in which aerodynamics are far from perfect.

For 100% collection of fines, an electrostatic precipitator or bubble column is needed.

By the way, from some types of dust, there is a very strong static voltage. Be careful while working.

The longer you work with the unit without disconnecting it from the network, the higher the charge can be. Here, read the instructive commentary of one real user of such a homemade product.

Therefore, on many cyclones, even factory assembled, the flange is grounded.

Five percent of small wood shavings is certainly not terrible for a household vacuum cleaner. And if it will be fine cement dust during gating?

Such particles, when they get inside, tightly clog the filter.

And it happens very quickly. The entire efficiency of the "cyclone" drops by at least 2/3 within a matter of minutes.

The main problem is in the dust bag. It is dense, and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for waste from plaster and concrete walls.

What to do? Is it really impossible to do without a real construction device? With intensive work, only an expensive and professional tool really saves.

What is the difference between a construction vacuum cleaner and a conventional vacuum cleaner

But for occasional work, this design can be slightly modified and improved. Idea belongs Shayter Andrey.

Before we consider the second design option, ask yourself the question: "What is one of the main differences between household and construction vacuum cleaners?"

In domestic models, cooling occurs due to the intake air.

That is, you vacuum the floor, the air sucks in the garbage. Next, it is filtered and the engine itself is cooled. Then the air is expelled outside.

This is where the risk of engine damage comes from. Firstly, when the filter is clogged, the cooling of the engine drops sharply.

Secondly, cement dust is not 100% retained in the dust collector, and part of it flies through the windings, along the way removing varnish insulation like emery. Such dispersed dust kills everything rubbing and spinning.

Adding water to the bottom of the tank doesn't help much. Instead of dust, you will get a lot of dirt, the weight of a bucket, and the filters will still end up clogged.

In professional devices, the engine is cooled separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not so afraid of bags completely clogged with garbage.

Moreover, they also have automatic cleaning or shaking.

In order to smartly remake a household model, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.

A working version of a construction vacuum cleaner from a household

The main additional element here is the non-woven filter bag. Copies from the company Karcher fit very well - article 2.863-006.0

Actually, this filter is disposable. Your task is to make a reusable element out of it.

To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a little, slightly reducing the width (up to 22 cm).




Next, this lower part must be closed with a special lid. You make it from two elements of a plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene pipe.

Cut the tube lengthwise, with a slot width of about 5 mm.

Attach them with the back side to the fabric at the bottom.

Then thread the prepared tube through the slot.

As a result, from a disposable you have a reusable filter bag. And much larger than the one installed inside the household model.

Next, you do the previously discussed steps to upgrade the bucket. Drill holes in the lid and insert rubber corrugated adapters into them.

One will be for connecting the filter bag, the other for the hose. Choose the sizes according to the diameters of your devices.

Here you can do without fan pipes and corners. Next, put on the plastic insert from the reusable filter onto the adapter.

It remains to tightly close the lid on the bucket. The structure is ready to go.

Although it is similar, it differs from the first option above. After you turn on the unit and start sucking in the garbage, it is the home-made reusable dust collector that will collect all the muck and dirt in itself.

Dust will not fly around like in the previous case. On the contrary, this bag will inflate inside the bucket from the air flow.

Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and fine fractions, which could be missed by the cyclone.

However, do not forget about clogging the walls of the reusable filter and reducing the draft of the cooling air flow. In order not to burn the engine of a household vacuum cleaner, one more measure must be taken.

How not to burn a household vacuum cleaner

Most modern models have a built-in safety valve. It indicates when the filters are already clogged and at this moment additional air flow opens.

Indeed, this is considered an emergency. Your task is not to wait until this valve is triggered, but to use a slightly different trick.

Some devices have a draft regulator directly on the handle in the form of a hole that opens or closes. It just the same and should be slightly opened for any type of work.

If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional hole with a diameter of 12mm in the bucket lid itself.

And most importantly, do not forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you upgrade it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to record the start time and do not work longer than the prescribed period.

I mean, just take breaks. At least in order to shake the homemade filter. And he just shakes himself with a bucket.

When the dust container is substantially full, open the lid of the bucket and with a slight movement pull the tube out of the guides at the bottom of the bag.

It will open up and the debris with dust can be removed. After that, collect the entire structure back and work on.

The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fillings. After that, cement dust in the fabric itself begins to strongly slow down the air flow.

You will either have to replace the filter with a new one, or not just shake it, but thoroughly clean it of any fine debris and continue working as if nothing had happened.

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