Marking the wall for laying tiles. Marking the walls for tiles How to properly mark the tiles on the walls

30/10/2017

An important step in laying tiles on the floor is marking the floor. The result depends on the success of the work done. In order for the new coating to serve for many years and have a presentable appearance, it is necessary to responsibly approach the issue of marking, choosing one of the possible options in advance. In our article, we will look at several ways that will tell even a beginner how to mark the floor for laying tiles.

The traditional way of creating markup involves a straight or diagonal arrangement of tiles. There are several options for such styling:

• angular;
• central;
• perpendicular;
• diagonal

In rectangular rooms, corner tiling is successfully used, which provides for fixing floor products from one corner. The scheme is this:

• the first tile is laid in a corner;
• the next two - to the right side, then 2 more pieces to the left;
• so alternately fit all floor products in a row.

The method is quite simple, does not require special skills. With such markings, even an inexperienced person can make high-quality tile laying.

Marking the floor for laying tiles starts from the central part of the room. It is important to determine the middle of the room, draw a straight line vertically and horizontally, conditionally dividing the room into four identical parts. It should be noted right away that this method is only suitable for rectangular or square rooms.

Tiles are laid along the marking, starting from the central part. Floor products are stacked alternately: on the left, on the right and further in a row to the end of the floor. The next row can be laid in a "pyramid" or "layer by layer" format. This method of marking allows you to create a high-quality floor covering with a perfectly flat surface.

The disadvantages include the complexity of the actions, so dealing with this layout is not as easy as it seems at first glance. A beginner who wants to carry out repair work using the central laying method needs to correctly think over the sequence of actions and not make a mistake when performing the markup itself in the central part of the room.

For non-standard rooms with irregular geometric shapes, it is recommended to use the perpendicular laying method. Sequencing:

• the initial markup is placed in the central part of the room, where the first tile will be laid;
• a perpendicular line is drawn from the laid tile, on the basis of which the whole row is laid;
• then it is necessary to make a similar laying "up and down", forming the central rows;
• all subsequent products are stacked alternately, relative to the laid tiles in the central part.

Another way to lay floor tiles is diagonal, which involves the preliminary creation of diagonal markings:

• find the central part of the room and put a mark;
• we make a connection from the walls with a straight line “up-down” and “left-right”;
• then we draw two more straight lines diagonally, thus connecting the corners of the room.

The layout of the tiles is carried out alternately, taking into account the created markup. You can perform sequential actions from the wall of the room or from the central part where the main mark is set. Everyone can independently determine a more acceptable way to create an even floor covering.

For people who choose non-standard solutions, the way of designer tile laying, which has certain features and nuances, is perfect. First of all, it should be noted that only experienced specialists can do such work. For beginners, it is better to choose more simplified schemes, which will eliminate bumps and poor-quality results.

Designer tile laying is performed in several ways. The geometry of the drawing - at the request of the master. To create the correct markup, you will need:

• checkered paper;
• creating a pattern intended for styling;
• transfer the finished pattern to the prepared paper;
• in accordance with this scheme, floor marking is performed.

Experts recommend pre-calculating the number of tiles for laying: solid and cut, used for decoration. When performing work, it is necessary to strictly follow the drawn up drawing so that the intended design solution is perfectly formed on the floor covering.

Most often, laying tiles on the floor is trusted by professional tilers and they do it for a reason. After all, the durability and beauty of the coating greatly depends on the quality of laying, and the process of work itself is very complicated. However, even a beginner can lay an even tile on a fairly even base with his own hands and according to the standard “seam-to-seam” pattern. The main thing is to choose the right mounting solutions and strictly follow the technology. Our step-by-step instructions with photos and a selection of useful videos will help you with this. This tile laying theory will also be useful to those who need to control and accept the work of tilers.

Materials, tools and equipment

Here is a list of the materials and tools you will need in the process of laying, cutting and grouting floor tiles.

Tools and equipment:

• Roulette, metal ruler and corner;
• Construction pencil for marking;
• Building level and rule;
• Construction mixer or drill with a stirrer attachment;
• Tile cutter or electric tile cutter;
• Core or glass cutter (needed for curvilinear cutting of tiles);
• Tile cutters (for cutting curved);
• File (for grinding cut edges);
• Putty knife;
• Notched trowel (6-8 mm);
• Master OK;
• Rubber spatula for grouting;
• Rubber mallet;
• A bucket with a sponge and a rag;
• Knee pads and household gloves.

materials

In addition to the tile itself with a 10% margin, you will need:

• Tile adhesive corresponding to the base material (for concrete, wood, old tiles, etc.), as well as the characteristics of the tile itself;
• Crosses of the desired size;
• Grout of the desired color;
• Primer.

Step 1. Preparing the base

First you need to prepare the base so that it is even, clean and dry. It is preferable to lay tiles on a concrete screed, but if desired, you can also put them on old tiles or wood, chipboard (or other similar material). However, keep in mind that when installing tiles on the old cladding, the height of the final floor will increase.

To lay tiles on a concrete screed you need: remove possible roughness with a scraper, vacuum the floor, wash with an alkaline cleaner, then cover with a coat of primer (preferably) and wait 2-4 hours until the floor is completely dry. Further, if the concrete base is uneven (deviations of more than 5 mm per 2 linear meters), then it must be filled with some kind of leveling compound and wait for it to dry.

To put a tile on an old tile you need:

• To improve the adhesion of the old tile with glue, it is passed along with sandpaper or a grinder;
• Then the coating is vacuumed and washed, if necessary treated with a primer (drying in 2-4 hours is required) and covered with a self-leveling mixture.

Attention! When laying tiles on the underfloor heating system, turn off the heating 1-2 days before starting work. You can turn on the heating or floor heating only 2-3 days after grouting. For laying ceramic tiles on a “warm floor”, you need to use an adhesive with a high content of elastic polymers, which will prevent thermal deformation of the base.

Step 2. Drawing the Markup

Once the floor is dry, you can start drawing markings. There are many ways to draw markup, but they all have the same goal:

• The floor must be marked so that, firstly, the cut tiles are placed out of sight; and secondly, cuttings were required as little as possible. Ideally, tiles should be cut by a third or a maximum of half.

So, for example, the markup can be built in such a way that whole tiles are placed at the entrance, along the axes of the window opening, or, say, at the threshold of the balcony door. In our article, we will consider one of the most popular ways of laying tiles on the floor - along two perpendicular axes from the center of the doorway.

So, draw a line from the center of the threshold to the center of the opposite wall with a cord or laser level. Next, along this line, begin laying a row of dry cross tiles. After laying the last whole tile, draw a line along its outer edge so that you get two strictly perpendicular vertical lines as in the diagram below. It is advisable to use a square to make sure that the corners are straight at 90 degrees.

In the corner of the perpendicular, we will glue the first tile, and from it we will lay the first row (along the horizontal line).

Step 3. Laying the first tile and the first row

Dilute the adhesive in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions, apply it with a spatula to one of the corners of the intersection and at the same time to the area of ​​​​several tiles of the future first row, slightly going beyond it. Then smooth the adhesive with a notched trowel, keeping it at a 60 degree angle. Try to always keep the "comb" at the same angle so that the glue is the same thickness.

Attention! If the tile is larger than 30×30 cm or 20×30 cm, then the adhesive must also be applied to the tile itself in a thin layer (apply the adhesive to the tile and immediately remove it almost completely with the same spatula). For very large sizes, the layer of adhesive on the tile can be thicker and thinned out with a notched trowel as shown in the photo below.

Then, in the same way, you should glue the second tile and level it with the first one using a mallet and a rule. Make sure the tiles are level by placing a spirit level directly on two tiles at once as shown in the photo below.

Check the height of each laid tile with the previous one. If necessary, remove excess or, conversely, add glue

Only when both tiles are aligned, insert crosses into the corners of the tiles and into the seam.

Now continue gluing the tiles in the same way until the entire first row is complete. Walk along it again with the rule and check the evenness with a level.

A few rules and useful styling tips

• The subfloor and tiles must always be dry.
• Try to apply the adhesive to no more than 1 linear meter of facing area at a time.
• Glue that has stood for more than 30-40 minutes becomes unsuitable for work (with the exception of adhesives from some manufacturers). Therefore, try to knead the glue a little at a time.
• To prevent the glue from drying to the comb, constantly soak it in water.
• The crosses must be removed before the glue dries.
• It is not advisable to lean on the laid tile with your knees, as this can disrupt its flatness.
• Tiles should be taken from different boxes, so a slight difference in tone will be invisible. Before starting work, be sure to check that the tone indicated on all boxes matches.
• On the back of the tile there is always the manufacturer's logo, by which you can understand where the tile has the top and where the bottom. Sometimes tiles have a special masonry orientation marker, which, for convenience, can be additionally marked on the end of the tile with a pencil.
• Have time to remove excess glue before it dries. It is best to remove it from the surface of the tile with a cloth moistened with solvent.

Alternative way of marking and laying the first row

Don't want to bother with markup? Then act the old fashioned way - start laying tiles from the most visible corner. If you are laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen, then you can start laying from the corner of the wall opposite the headset, then a row of cut tiles falls under it.

More useful information on marking and laying tiles on the floor with your own hands can be found in this video.

Step 4. Laying the remaining rows, cutting tiles

Hooray, the first row is ready and now, guided by it, we can lay the second row of cut tiles (see the figure below), and then all the rest.

• Attention! The first row is made up of only whole tiles, the cut tiles are placed later (in the diagram, the "cut" row is indicated as row 2).

How to cut the last floor tile adjacent to the wall? First of all, you need to determine the line of its cutting: put it on the penultimate tile already glued, put another tile on it and move it to the wall, but not reaching the wall at a distance of one seam. Along the outer edge of this tile, draw a line on the underlying tile. This line is the cutting line.

You can cut the tile in different ways and devices. Ideally, you should use a manual tile cutter or an electric tile cutter (see photo above), if there is no such tool, then use a grinder. However, if the floor tiles are ceramic and not very thick (up to 9 mm), then you can use the old construction trick and cut it ... with a regular glass cutter, as shown in this video.

How to cut tiles curved? Apply masking tape to the tile you are cutting to prevent the decorative layer from chipping. Then, with a pencil, mark a rounded cut line, say under the pipe. Next, drill a few holes along the marked rounded line with a carbide drill bit (also suitable for porcelain tiles). And finally, with the help of wire cutters, pliers and special tile tongs, carefully break off the unnecessary part. Sand the cut with a file.

When you have covered the entire floor, make sure all crosses are removed and leave the flooring to dry for 24 hours.

How to cut the floor tiles with an L-shaped grinder, for example, under the protrusion of the ventilation duct, you can learn from this video.

Step 5. Grouting

After 24 hours, you can start grouting. To do this, first lightly wet the joints with a spray bottle or just a wet rag to improve the grip of the grout, and then dilute the grout.

Holding the rubber trowel at an angle, apply the joint compound to about 1 sq. meter of the floor and distribute it so that all the seams are completely filled. But be careful not to force the grout into the seams too hard.

After 15-30 minutes, remove excess grout with a damp sponge. In the same way, continue to grout the seams on other areas of the floor, with the exception of the joints along the walls. One hour after grouting the entire surface of the floor, it can be washed clean with water or mild detergents.

After a week, the seams can be additionally coated with sealant.

Attention! Walking on a freshly laid tiled floor is not recommended for the first 2-3 days, ideally 7 days.

In the minds of people far from the tiling craft, there are two opposite opinions. Some consider tiling too difficult, others are convinced that you can understand how to lay tiles on the floor in a couple of days. The golden mean has not let anyone down yet, it works in this case too. Laying ceramics is not nuclear physics, but it should not be considered a trifling matter either. However, with the theoretical base obtained from the article, and with the help of practice, you will soon be able to ennoble the interior on your own.

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Foundation preparation

Laying floor tiles on glue is not possible without a prepared base. In order for the lining to be a pleasant, not painful process, and in order to save material, the surface must be perfectly even. To do this, the floor in the room is poured with a screed or a bulk floor is made using self-leveling mixtures.

• The screed requires more skill, but it is cheaper and suitable for leveling surfaces with huge differences.
• Self-leveling floor will be more expensive, but it does not require much skill. Considering that horizontal extremes are rare in a standard dwelling, it is recommended to use it.

Self leveling compound

The mixture is a solution that easily spreads over the surface, forming a horizon. There are mixtures based on cement and gypsum. The latter are suitable only for dry rooms with a difference of no more than a centimeter, and this goes against the “tiled” goals. Cement ready to level a rather uneven floor (up to 5 cm).

Before using the solution, you need to thoroughly clean the base of debris, remove frank "hills", and mint large cracks if necessary. Immediately before pouring, the surface should be treated with a primer.

Mixes are usually sold in bags of 25 kg. This amount requires approximately 7 liters of water (the exact dosage is indicated on the package). Since the finished mixture must be used up within 30 minutes, calculate the strength.

The self-leveling floor requires compliance with the temperature regime - less than +5 degrees already negatively affects the final result.

Although you can walk on the finished base after 6-12 hours (depending on the layer), laying ceramic tiles on the floor is possible after three days.

Leveling the floor in the bathroom or shower should be properly accompanied by a slight slope. In the first case, the trapped water should drain from the bath to the door, in the second - to the drain hole (ladder). At the same time, the level of the floor in the bathroom should be lower than in the corridor, or there should be a threshold in the doorway. This is done to protect the entire apartment from flooding.

Layout types

Tiles can be laid "seam-to-seam", "staggered" and diagonally. The first method is familiar and popular, the boundaries of the plates must match. The second most simple, resembles brickwork; even if small deviations appear, they will not be very noticeable. Laying tiles on the floor diagonally is the most difficult way. It's hard to do it right the first time. There are still exotic ways, and many, but it is better to use them as you master the ones described above.

markup

Depending on the type of layout, the floor is also marked. If you decide to lay the tiles in the first two ways, it will be enough for you to calculate the number of tiles, taking into account the seams. Laying floor tiles (and laying wall tiles correctly) always starts from the most viewed area, and trimming goes to less relevant places. Consequently, the calculation of the whole tile must be started from the most “important” wall.

The surest way to get beautiful undercuts on both sides is to align the center of the first tile with the center of the floor. And then continue laying to the edges. On the bathroom floor, the center is calculated from the bath screen to the opposite wall. In some cases, it makes sense to deliberately shift the center of the installation or change the size of the room by a couple of centimeters (due to the box) in order to avoid trimming altogether.

The seams of the floor and wall tiles do not have to match.
The best video on how to lay tiles on the floor correctly:

Marking under the "diagonal"

Marking axes for diagonal tile laying:
a - diagonal marking in a rectangular room, b - laying tiles of the same color along the frieze with correct marking, c - laying multi-colored tiles along the frieze with incorrect marking, d - laying tiles at an angle in the center to form a one-color row along the perimeter of the frieze.

Laying tiles in this way is not easy for a beginner. This layout makes sense because of the greater decorative effect and visual increase in space. The disadvantages include not only the complexity of the cladding, but also the increased consumption of plates due to the greater amount of waste.

There are several ways of diagonal laying. All of them require the rectangular geometry of the plot, which will be farmed out to this type of layout. If right angles are not maintained in the room, the extreme tiles that run along the perimeter along the walls will be cut unevenly. To avoid this, you can surround the central rectangular area with tiles arranged in the usual way (or with a frieze). This will smooth out visual flaws. But this is a matter of taste.

The rectangle is beaten off with the help of cords and a tape measure. Opposite sides, like diagonals, must be equal. Walking along the outer contour of the rectangle with tiles "seam to seam", you can start laying ceramics from the most visible place. The inner contour consists of alternating halves and whole slabs. Unlike the usual method, the cords should be pulled along two diagonals, forming a right angle.

tiling

If the floor has not previously been waterproofed, you will need a liquid barrier device. Let's say more: additional waterproofing does not hurt, you should not rely on the builders of the house. When it comes to bathroom flooring, waterproofing is a must. It is not problematic to make it; a dry mixture diluted with water is usually used. Knead according to the instructions and with a brush, walk along the surface of the floor, capturing the walls by 10–15 cm.

When the waterproofing is completely hardened, you can begin to lay the tiles.

You need to apply the solution either on the tile or on the base. If the room is voluminous, the second option is more reasonable - the process goes faster. If the floor is small or it comes to trimming the tiles, it is better to coat the ceramics.

For floor tiles, spatulas with 8-12 mm teeth are suitable, depending on the unevenness of the base and the size of the tile.

Laying tiles on the floor begins with the most prominent place - the entrance.

A few tips:

• Do not wet the base and tiles.
• Do not use glue that has stood for more than 40 minutes.
• If you "glue" both the base and the tile, adhesion will increase. At the same time, it is enough for one of the elements to apply the mixture “under the peel” - apply and immediately remove with a spatula. The remaining thin layer will enhance adhesion.
• To prevent glue from sticking to the comb, keep it constantly in water.

Tile cutting

To be able to glue tiles is not enough, you need to master the skill of trimming. The most popular profile tool is a tile cutter. There are many variations, usually a two-rail bearing is used. But since floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles, a tile cutter must be expensive. Cheap household models make a lot of marriage. It's easier to cut everything with a grinder.

In addition to mechanical, there are also electric tile cutters. They are more versatile and allow you to work with thicker ceramics.

Figured cut is performed using a grinder. Sometimes the help of wire cutters is needed.

Grouting

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is over, it remains to seal the seams. This is done using a special grout and a rubber spatula. If several colors are used, you need to glue masking tape on the tonal borders.

Be sure to clean the seams before jointing.

Apply the mixture to the seams with a putty-applied spatula in a diagonal motion, immediately removing the residue. As the fugue solidifies with a sponge, bring the gaps between the plates to the desired condition.

Well, you have taken the first step in understanding how to lay tiles on the floor correctly and quickly. You know how to lay tiles in different ways, now it's time to start practicing. comments powered by HyperComments

No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials pleases today, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the respectable “veterans” of the construction market, are by no means in a hurry to give up their leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, due to its unique performance characteristics, is used for external and outdoor work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.

Tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since, with all its positive qualities, it is also very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work on your own.

But before taking on styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its proper selection.

How to choose floor tiles

When going to the store to select and purchase the necessary material, the landlord should “arm himself” with basic knowledge about which tiles are usually on sale.

Choosing a floor tile based solely on its decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-shop, trained sales assistants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for which purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate in icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot by themselves. Most common characters that may occur are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of the porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. It makes no sense to spend money on the purchase of such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.

2 - Foot on an inclined plane - a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the tile. For rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture from the street is often brought on shoes, this is a very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For these premises, the best choice would be slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.

3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with the image of a drill) - the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the floor in the kitchen - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.

4 - Such a pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness of the ceramic tile. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7 - 8 mm is usually purchased.

5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined according to the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware, this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc. .

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, it is impossible to purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 - But the image of the footprint from the boot speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive loads. According to the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear classes:

Wear class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a bathroom). In such premises, street shoes are not worn, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the traffic intensity is already somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with intensive use - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply
V	The highest class of abrasion resistance, applicable to coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of vehicles. Scope of application - stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises, etc.

9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. Such material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for laying on walls. In addition, the technology of double firing implies an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type of household chemicals. The letter indicator of this property of the material is "AA".

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of various shades.

12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of precious metals in their composition: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example above, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, symbol 14 indicates that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 indicates that 24 tiles are packed in a box.

The pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21 will tell you about some specific properties of the material. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations. and and airports, medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. It makes no sense to purchase such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

Other points not to be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, tiles that are too large will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such little rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the goods of one batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In the conditions of the store, it is quite possible that it will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a coating on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tile

- Secondly, fluctuations in the linear dimensions of the tiles are not excluded. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precise electronics. But it still remains ceramics, and there may be small errors, so the finished products must be calibrated. There must always be tiles of the same size in one batch, and the difference between different batches can even be a few millimeters. When laying such a tile on the floor, especially in large areas, there may be inconsistencies noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked tiles or chips on the surface. Salespeople may argue that marriage is inevitable and must be accepted. No, you don't, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for some unfortunate misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if it is planned to lay tiles, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, there is more waste and, in addition, the probability of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

The process of facing the floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Surface preparation for laying.
• Carrying out the necessary markup, drawing up a scheme of work.
• Laying ceramic tiles on adhesive mortar.
• and finishing work.

Preparing the floor surface for tiling

The requirements for the base for laying tiles, in principle, are simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion with the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which it is planned to lay the tiles. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
• If, during the control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, they must be removed up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of up to 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is scraped off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions are necessarily cut down - if you can sometimes look at a slight recess "through your fingers", since it will still be filled with glue during the masonry process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
• After that, a thorough cleaning with dedusting of the surface is carried out. In order for the repair suction to lie well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.

The finished and completely frozen screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Floor marking for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if its location on the floor is planned correctly. Carelessly, obliquely laid tiles can completely complete the interior

There are many methods and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them on the scale of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan laying from the wall is very risky, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, the distance between opposite walls is carefully measured and midpoints are applied. They are connected straight (usually done with a coated cord), and receive a longitudinal baseline.

Now you need to draw the second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity be observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is a multiple of 5.

For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the leg 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

When the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for the beginning of masonry - it will not be difficult for them to make a parallel transfer in any direction.

For example, if the front door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles in this way - along the laid reference lines. The principle is as follows - so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts and fitting. (see pos. "a" in the figure).

But in a small room, with an offset to the edge (pos. "b"), and even possibly having a complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of masonry can be smstyle to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it will be the entrance that will turn out to be the "front door".

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out the control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial "dry" laying of tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, stop at one of the principles:

1 - in a small room, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the "starting line", provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.

2 - masonry is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow sections for supplementing with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave sections not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.

3 - the layout looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 - laying diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex execution, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will work is being done- from the far corner to the entrance, or by dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, with their subsequent filling.

“Filling” the space can also be done in different ways. So, some masters are laying in order. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a consistent increase in the number of rows being laid at the same time.

"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or, as shown in the figure, stepwise

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “in a run” or even randomly - sometimes this is part of the design plan for decorating the room. But in the conditions of an ordinary house, they still prefer to confine themselves to a direct laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So, we are preparing the necessary tools and materials for laying.

- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, from 100 to 250 mm wide, and notched, with a furrow height of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle for mixing tiles with an appropriate container for the same purpose.

- Always have a building level at hand.

- In some cases, it will be necessary to apply force to lay the tile in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.

- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

- It is necessary to create a supply of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.

- In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably, in our time, no one is already thinking about making tile adhesive on their own - you can always buy it in a store. When choosing, you need to control the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual, intended for most interiors, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called "complex surfaces", for the "warm floor" system, etc.

The glue is diluted by gradually adding a dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring with the help of a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created by a notched trowel do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.

Too much mortar should not be prepared at once, especially if there is no experience in laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this must be indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during operation, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.

• Beginning masters, apparently having heard a lot of old, irrelevant advice or having read about it somewhere, soak the tile in water before laying it on the floor. In doing so, they are committing a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures - adhesives for ceramic tiles, are designed for application precisely on a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the adhesive, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for use of the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply glue - on the floor, or on the tiles? There is no unanimity of opinion on this issue. Someone likes to apply on the tile - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a significant area of ​​​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-glue the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - to coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this way all cavities are guaranteed to be filled, maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After smearing with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, tightly pressed against the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• Work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When fitting each tile, its horizontalness must be checked using the building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the joints. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together so, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
• Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the initial setting of the mortar. Then, when the tile has already acquired immobility, the crosses must be removed - it is impossible to leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.

Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Very convenient to use are modern devices for quickly laying out tiles - the so-called leveling systems. The kit includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).

- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heel. The thickness of the leg of the clamp will determine the size of the seam. Clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamps installed...

Then another tile is laid. The wide heel of the clip is also under it.

... then the next tile is laid ...

A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed by a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... wedges are inserted all the way and fully fixed.

- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one cancels control with the help of a level.

- The wedges should remain in this position until the glue has completely dried. Then they are removed with light side impacts using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile stress, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken hooks are disposed of.

Video: laying tiles with a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, it was only about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So, now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already grab well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking the tile poses, cutting should not be forgotten about the spacing between the seams - it should definitely be corrected for.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is with a tile cutter, a desktop tool that gives a smooth and accurate cut. It is enough to lay the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw the roller away from you with force over the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a small experience of the master, there is practically no marriage in such cutting.

2. A manual tile cutter is a fairly convenient tool, but it already requires more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended line of risk. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Hand movement - and the tile should be divided into two parts.

Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and desktop tile cutters, they allow cutting tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure that the tile is securely fixed when working with a grinder so that it does not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut right through - when details of a complex configuration are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will not be difficult to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to safety precautions - be sure to cover your eyes and face with a mask, so how not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. Small areas of tiles can be removed with pliers.

In this case, in the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, with tongs, very small fragments are carefully broken out, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor unevenness left after cutting can be removed with a block wrapped with coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to process it with a round file first.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When performing work on cutting tiles and when laying its fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut hand injury when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be done with protective gloves.

Seam sealing

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.

• First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to the full depth and width.
• getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy.

1. In domestic conditions, cement grouts are more often used (the so-called class WithG 2 according to EN 13888).

Cement grout for joints

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packed dry mixes, they can have different colors - there is always the opportunity to choose the color that is most suitable for the overall design. They are closed to the desired consistency most often with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. Recently, epoxy-based grouts (class RG according to EN 13888) are rapidly gaining popularity. These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before the start of work on filling the joints.

The “life” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions in order to be guaranteed to work out before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and besides, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (apart from a certain difficulty with the correct preparation of the working composition) is so far a very high price, which greatly limits the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is typed on a rubber spatula or rubber grater and applied with force to the seam area, usually in the direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult to do. Usually this is started when a white coating appeared on the grout remaining on the surface of the tile - it began to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, one should try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the puffer out of there. The sponge should be thoroughly rinsed as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it washes away dirt and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grout.

After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement coating is easy to remove by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.

After that, the ceramic tile will already take on its “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for seams

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting on a tiled floor

However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out one more simple operation - to coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. Such treatment will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and facilitate cleaning.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can restore the final order. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is over!

Laying tiles is a rather complicated process, which consists of certain stages of work. Among them there is also a markup. The final result of the work depends on it, because if the markup is done incorrectly or inaccurately, surprises may await you during the laying process. This article describes in detail step by step how to mark up when laying tiles.

1. Plane preparation

At the very beginning, it is worth preparing the plane that needs to be marked. For example, when the tiles are laid on the walls, they should immediately be cleaned of construction debris and dust residues. To do this, you can use a brush, vacuum cleaner or broom. The main thing is that the walls are clean.

2. Marking corners

After that, it is necessary to beat off a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. From the very beginning, labels must be applied in the corners. For this, a simple water level is used. If financial resources allow, then you can purchase a laser level. With it, you can easily apply both marks and lines. If there is no such device, then two people will be needed. They get in the corners. The ends of the water level are placed at a certain height and look at the water level, marks are applied to it.

The next step is that one person moves to the next corner, while the other remains in place and focuses on the marked mark. On it, you need to put the next mark. This operation is carried out until points are applied in all corners.

3. Drawing horizontal lines

Next is the drawing of lines between the marks. The easiest way to draw lines is to use a beater. Its cord is covered with special paint. The cord is pulled along the marks, after that they need to slam on the base of the wall, pulling it back a little and releasing it sharply. This is how all lines are drawn. Further, it all depends on the size of the tile.

From the main line, it is worth measuring a certain amount so that the mark below is slightly less than the height of the tile. The bottom row is better to cut a little. So marks are applied around the entire perimeter and lines are also beaten off.

4. Drawing vertical lines

The next step is to draw a vertical line on the walls, which will divide into two even parts. This will be needed in order to correctly calculate the trimming of tile materials. If on some side it turns out to be too small, then the rows are shifted half the tile to the right or left, it does not matter. In this case, the trim will look more attractive.

When drawing the center line, you should use a plumb line or an exact level. Again, returning to what was said, today there are laser levels and theodolites. Depending on the variety of the instrumental base, such devices can be used.

When the first row of tile materials is mounted, it is important to measure everything so that this particular row converges horizontally, around the entire perimeter. Since the quality of laying of all rows depends on it. Read more directly about laying tiles in the article ukladka-plitki.

5. Marking switches and sockets

If the plane of the walls is finished correctly, you can start marking the places where the switches and sockets will be located. This is done once, since the tile is not restored after incorrect drilling, it can only be replaced with a new one.

The markup depends on the technological requirements, as well as on your own preferences. In any case, everything is recommended to be done more accurately and carefully.