Chasing and chasing cast-iron pipes. Chasing cast iron pipes: process features How to minted a sewer pipe with a diameter of 800

Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes requires the contractor to fully comply with the rules of construction work and standards. In most cases, these issues have already been resolved for multi-apartment buildings, so this process is relevant for private houses and cottages. It is for this reason that owners need to know all the nuances of building a drainage system. In our article we will find out how to make a sewer with our own hands.

It is necessary to install water pipes from the drawing up of communication laying diagrams. The photo should indicate and indicate all the components of the structure: the dimensions of the elements, the location of the fittings, the lines of the system. In practice, most plumbing fixtures are connected to one riser, but if the room is large, it is better to connect to several points.

When the question arises of installing a sewer system, you can start from the photo of the previous wiring diagram in the building. It is worth considering that if a cast-iron pipe is replaced with a plastic one, then it is impossible to focus on the old system.

Attention! With a large number of storeys of the building, it is rational to place the plumbing units one under the other.

When performing repair work, it is enough to make a schematic drawing of the adjustable system. But, if sewage installation is being carried out, then it is impossible to do without drawing up a project. This norm is necessary due to the existence of an internal and external design of the drainage system. Plus, most cases also involve the installation of a cleaning device.

Work materials

For such types of work, the requirements of SNiP provide for the installation of the following types of pipes:

• cast iron;
• ceramic;
• Asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• Plastic.

Most often, polyethylene materials are used, which correspond to GOST 22689.0-89 and 22689.2-89, and have a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. A feature of plastic pipes is resistance to aggressive environmental influences and corrosion. Such devices are connected using sockets, and rubber cuffs are used for sealing.

Basic rules of the installation process

Before proceeding with the installation work on the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for the process. This is necessary to create an optimal drainage system in the house. For this reason, it is very important to do everything correctly and accurately.

Sizes of diameters and slopes of pipes

Since most situations involve the creation of a system with gravity, it becomes very important to choose the diameter and slope of the pipes correctly. The functioning of the sewer will depend on this process. The size of the pipe dimensions is affected by the type of plumbing fixtures, as well as their number in the building. Generally speaking, the main factor is the photo installation diagram. So here are some recommendations:

• It is better to insert a pipe diameter into the washbasin system - 4 cm;
• For bathroom and kitchen - 5 cm;
• For a riser that does not have a connection to the toilet - 8.5 cm;
• For a riser with a connected toilet - 10 cm

Attention! The pipe must be directed to the riser from the apparatus. It is worth noting that its dimensions should be 2-15 cm per meter.

Dismantling the old wiring

Before mounting a new system, you need to remove the elements of the old layout. It is worth noting that this process can be quite a difficult job, especially for old-timers' houses. In order to speed up and facilitate the procedure, it is necessary to think about dismantling in advance.

Required Tools

To install the sewer with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Special grinder or hacksaw;
• Drill apparatus;
• Screwdriver.

It is right to start all work from the bathroom and the most distant places of pipelines. Before starting the process, it is necessary to check whether all the necessary materials and tools are available. In addition, we advise you to perform pipe diagnostics to determine if there are any deformations and damages on them.

Preparatory stages of installation

Preparation for installation includes the following steps:

• We check and adjust all connection points. We mark on the pipes the depths of the occurrences of the sockets.
• Next, the chasing and cutting of pipes is performed;

Attention! The caulking of the pipeline occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. It should be noted that the cut should not have deformations or distortions.

• The points of the cut pipes should be correctly checked for burrs, as their presence on the part will affect the sealing of the joints and lead to the accumulation of debris and blockages. You need to fix this situation with a file.
• Before assembling the system, it is necessary to clean the extreme parts of the pipes and the rubber seals. Failure to comply with this norm will reduce the quality of the connection.

If you focus on a standard photo, a sewerage scheme in the premises, then it provides that the pipes are laid along three lines of the system:

• The device of the first highway is the line with the shortest length, which should not exceed 1 meter. In this branch, it is necessary to mint a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures in the house.
• The second line includes bathroom appliances and equipment, namely a washbasin, shower, washing machine.
• The third branch is the drainage line from the kitchen.

Attention! The length of the second and third branches should be less than three meters. For this reason, if the building has a large volume, then it is necessary to insert the lines into at least two risers.

The main sewer lines have several branches that go to each type of plumbing. Each line at the end provides for the installation of a siphon. A water lock is a necessary element of any system that forms a cork from the water, which prevents gases from escaping from the sewer. In most cases, such an apparatus does not exist in the installation of a washing machine, since its system has a check valve.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Sometimes there are situations when there is a need to perform repairs for a separate part of the sewer system. It should be noted that the process does not always occur without disconnection of the pipeline. To start minting pipes, you need to inspect the place of future work.

The main problem is that the pipes that are in the ground are filled with a special substance, which strengthens the fastening. Therefore, the question arises, how is the chasing of cast-iron pipelines performed? This is what we are now trying to find out. It is enough to simply destroy the connection using a gas cutter.

Pipe chasing technology

Difficulty can also arise when caulking cast-iron or plastic pipes, which occurs when replacing a riser or toilet bowl. For the correctness of the action, you need to very carefully mint the pipe pipe. This action includes several steps:

• The first thing we need to do is to tap the bell with a hammer so as not to damage it;
• If the bell moves quietly and can be easily dismantled, which means that the caulking was carried out with a cable.
• Then you can start dismantling - loosen the bell, pry with a screwdriver and pull the cord a little. Then gently pull out the rope with pliers.

If the bell is motionless when tapped, this means that the chasing was done with sulfur. In this situation, you need to use the burning technology:

• Carefully perform heating of the pipeline around the circumference with a burner or blowtorch;
• Avoiding damage, carefully tap the pipeline with a hammer;
• When the bell is movable, you can loosen it with an adjustable tool.

Attention! When performing work, it is necessary to use a respirator to avoid inhalation of sulfur.

• After releasing the bell, we clean it with a chisel;
• We cover the sealing ring with a special solution, and insert it into the socket;
• We mount a new part in the seal.

Installation of plastic sewer pipes

Installing plastic sewer pipes is a little different from other types. For this reason, we provide some tips on how to mint them:

• There are two ways to cut a plastic pipe. It is worth noting that the saw for such work should have small teeth. Also, this task can be performed using a two-handed cable.
• Do not leave burrs, which very often appear when cutting plastic products.
• We carry out cleaning and pasting of materials. First, you need to perform a dry assembly, and then you can start gluing the system. To do this, we make marks, and then we connect the structural elements with glue.
• We assemble the sewerage pipeline system.
• We fill in all the empty spaces.
• We install a plastic pipe for ventilation. The connection must be made with copper material.
• Plastic pipes are used for connections of high complexity. The strength of the tightness of the structure is provided by couplings without a socket.
• We strengthen the risers. To do this, use metal lining - this element will protect against accidental hits of small parts, such as nails or screws.

So, we found out that installing a sewer is quite simple. The article presents two options for completing the process - a design with cast iron and plastic pipes. The main requirement for installation is compliance with the rules and regulations that are regulated by SNiP and Gost RF. So, study the legislative base and construction and sanitary conditions, and then you will be able to install a sewage disposal system in your own house or apartment correctly.

When it is necessary to repair any part of the sewer pipeline in an apartment, it is often necessary to disconnect the pipes. In a situation where a section needs to be replaced, it is important to first inspect it to determine the type of connection. Difficulty arises with pipes located underground, because they are processed by special. anti-separation compound. In this case, a gas cutter is used to speed up the separation process. It is known that caulking of cast iron pipes represents a very important stage of repair work and has its own technology for the correct execution. Rules should not be ignored when necessary change cast iron pipe.

How to chisel cast iron pipe?

1. Initially, it is required to gently tap the surface of the bell with a hammer, trying not to damage it. Otherwise, you will need to completely change the riser.
2. When the movement of the bell becomes free, you can carry out dismantling of cast iron pipes. It is produced like this:
- the bell should be slightly swung to the sides;
- using a screwdriver, pry a little and pull the rope;
- fix the rope using pliers;
- slowly pull the rope without stopping swing the pipe;
- the cable should be pulled out, having previously hooked it.
3. If the bell remains motionless as a result of the tapping procedure, the caulking was carried out by filling with sulfur. In this case, it should be burned out in the following way:
- using a soldering iron or an ordinary burner, it is necessary to heat the pipe around the circumference;
- during heating, continue tapping the pipe;
- when the bell starts to move, it must be swung using an adjustable wrench.
Work must be done with a respirator.
4. The released socket should be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. It is important to clean the bell seat very carefully, as this is where the sealing rubber will need to be placed.
5. Lubricate the rubber sealing ring with lubricant and place it in the socket.
6. Insert a new part into the seal.

quality replacement of cast iron pipes carried out through the involvement of a competent specialist. He will be able to quickly replace the cast-iron pipe without risking damage to the entire pipeline. The master will also help remove cast iron pipe, replace it with a product made of another material.

In the days of the Soviet Union, it was cast-iron pipes that were used for the manufacture of sewers. They have many advantages, such as long service life and high reliability. However, at the same time, they do not have flexibility, which is why they are overgrown with plaque from the inside, and are also susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, in our time, products made of polymeric materials are increasingly used. But, despite this, cast-iron pipelines still remain in most houses, because most buildings were built several decades ago. Therefore, gradually people begin to independently replace the failed sections. At the same time, they are faced with the fact that the pipes are minted. You should study the question of how to mint a pipe with your own hands.

To emboss a cast-iron pipe, people usually invite a professional. However, such work can be done by hand. At the same time, it is very important to act carefully.

The caulking of pipes is the separation of the elements of the sewer pipeline. This process requires care and accuracy, but it is quite possible to carry it out on your own.

Chasing sewer sockets requires careful preparation. The main stages of this process:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the tools. We are talking about a grinder, a hacksaw, a simple and rubber hammer, a chisel, an adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, a respirator and a blowtorch.
2. You need to open the valves. This will protect against the flow of fluid through the pipe with which the work is being done.
3. You also need to ask the neighbors not to use the water supply and sewerage. Especially seriously should talk about the use of the toilet. After all, this can lead to the fact that the drains will fall right on your head.
4. You will have to dismantle the toilet, sink, or the system whose sewer part you are going to mint.

Chasing pipes can only be done when you have completed all the stages of preparation for this process. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to cope with this process.

Cutting off an unnecessary pipe section

If you want to repair or replace the sewer or water pipe system, then you need to carry out each step in stages. After all, this process is different in that in case of failure, you can damage the sewer system of your neighbors.

Chasing the toilet outlet is difficult because in order to dismantle this element of plumbing, it will have to be broken. You won't be able to take it off completely.

Before you start caulking the sewer system, you must eliminate the damaged area. In this case, there are several recommendations.

The first stage of chasing a cast-iron sewer:

1. The end pipe is very easy to replace. Here you will not have to do any special work, except for the chasing itself.
2. If you want to replace the central part of the sewer riser, then this will be more difficult. This is where you need to make a cut.
3. For four centimeters from the common pipe, make an incision in a circle. Use a protective mask, goggles and gloves.
4. The unfinished part is carefully finished with a hacksaw. It is not recommended to hit the pipe with a hammer. The fact is that the fragility of the metal is unpredictable, upon impact, instead of a damaged pipe, the necessary part may burst, and in this case the next element will have to be changed.
5. Tie a large piece of rags to the pipe, then put it into it. This is necessary so that foreign objects do not get into the riser.
6. Now they go down some distance from the cut along the damaged element so that 20-30 centimeters remain to the place of caulking, and make a new cut. Carefully remove the cut piece.
7. The hole in the pipe is again closed with rags.

When cutting a pipe, all actions must be done very carefully. Do not cut the product flush, as this increases the danger of work.

It is very convenient to do this work in tandem with a friend. Then one person will be able to hold the element being cut off, and the other to cut.

Methods for caulking pipes and options for its neutralization

Chasing a pipe, that is, connecting its elements, can be done in three ways. However, each of them requires its own specific approach.

Nowadays, in order to connect the elements, it is not at all necessary to mint a pipe. This can be done using a special coupling-adapter. Moreover, with such an element it is possible to connect pipes from various materials, for example, cast iron and plastic.

Chasing pipes can be made from different materials. Various caulking of pipes and ways to eliminate it:

1. It will be easiest to separate the elements if they were minted with a heel. This is a rope that is wound around pipes and rammed. To check if this method has been used, you need to hit the bell several times with a rubber mallet, and then try to loosen it. If the pipe lends itself, then, most likely, it was the cable that was used. In this case, it is necessary to open the top layer of the rope with a screwdriver, find its end and pull it out. Throughout the work, it is necessary to carefully loosen the pipe. Shake it until you can pull out the necessary element. If the cable was covered with cement mortar on top, then it must first be knocked down. To do this, a screwdriver is placed on it at an angle, which taps.
2. In Soviet times, the cable was used infrequently. Sulfur was much more common. In this case, you will have to do quite a dangerous job. For her, you will definitely need to wear a gas mask, because sulfur fumes will be released, which are extremely poisonous. It is also necessary to ventilate the apartment. So, it is necessary to melt the sulfur with a blowtorch so that it acquires a liquid state. When heating, it is periodically necessary to tap the pipe until a noticeable stir appears. When the pipe itself heats up, it will need to be taken with an adjustable wrench and pulled towards you with effort. This will release the required element.

This is how pipes are caulked. It is worth noting that the option with gray is the most dangerous. Therefore, if you do not have a gas mask or a special construction respirator, then it is better not to start at all.

To dismantle the pipe from cast iron correctly, it is necessary to take into account all the rules of caution.

Helpful Hints:

1. Don't work alone. It is not safe. It's best to have a friend help.
2. If the pipes were minted with sulfur, then after removing the necessary element from the system, sulfur residues must be wiped off the pipe.
3. Do not use an iron mallet to chisel pipes. It can lead to the formation of cracks throughout the system. If there is no rubber, then you can use a wooden tool.

Such simple rules will help to produce chasing without trouble.

It is difficult to mint a cast-iron sewer with your own hands, but it is possible. However, keep in mind that even with perfectly correct execution, a non-professional will take several times more time to do this work than a master. Dare!

When it is necessary to repair any part of the sewer pipeline in an apartment, it is often necessary to disconnect the pipes. In a situation where a section needs to be replaced, it is important to first inspect it to determine the type of connection. Difficulty arises with pipes located underground, because they are processed by special. anti-separation compound. In this case, a gas cutter is used to speed up the separation process. It is known that the caulking of cast-iron pipes is a very important stage of repair work and has its own technology for correct execution. The rules should not be ignored when it is necessary to change the cast iron pipe.

How to emboss a cast-iron pipe?

1. Initially, it is required to gently tap the surface of the bell with a hammer, trying not to damage it. Otherwise, you will need to completely change the riser.
2. When the movement of the socket becomes free, it is possible to dismantle the cast iron pipes.

br /> is done like this:
- the bell should be slightly swung to the sides;
- using a screwdriver, pry a little and pull the rope;
- fix the rope using pliers;
- slowly pull the rope, without stopping swinging the pipe;
- the cable should be pulled out, having previously hooked it.
3. If the bell remains motionless as a result of the tapping procedure, the caulking was carried out by filling with sulfur. In this case, it should be burned out in the following way:
- using a soldering iron or an ordinary burner, it is necessary to heat the pipe around the circumference;
- during heating, continue tapping the pipe;
- when the bell starts to move, it must be swinged using an adjustable wrench.
Work must be done with a respirator.
4. The released socket should be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. It is important to clean the bell seat very carefully, as this is where the sealing rubber will need to be placed.
5. Lubricate the rubber sealing ring with lubricant and place it in the socket.
6. Insert a new part into the seal.

High-quality replacement of cast iron pipes is carried out by attracting a competent specialist. He will be able to quickly replace the cast-iron pipe without risking damage to the entire pipeline. Also, the master will help to remove the cast-iron pipe, replace it with a product made of another material.

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Step-by-step caulking of cast-iron pipes

In the process of repairing sewer communications with your own hands, the most difficult moment may be caulking a cast-iron pipe. Such manipulation may be required when repairing or reinstalling the riser. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully emboss the pipes of the cast-iron pipes. Step by step, this work can be done like this:

1. First, use a hammer to lightly tap the socket, while being careful not to break it, since carelessness can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, replacing the entire riser. It is better to use a wooden mallet.
2. If the previous blockage was made with the help of a cable, then after tapping the bell should wobble freely and it can be removed without additional effort. In such a case, do the following:
   • swing the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • hook it with pliers;
   • slowly and carefully pull out the rope, swinging the pipe in the process.
3. If, after tapping, the pipe did not start moving, it means that the previous caulking of the sockets of sewer pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur. In this option, you will need to get rid of it by burning it. To do this, proceed as follows:
   • gently heat the pipe at the joint along the entire diameter with a blowtorch or burner;
   • lightly, trying not to break the walls of the pipe, then tap it with a hammer;
   • if the bell starts to wobble, try moving it using an adjustable wrench.

   Please note that when working with a burner and sulfur, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract with a mask so as not to get poisoned by toxic fumes.

4. After successful dismantling, the walls of the socket must be well cleaned with a chisel and chisel. Pay special attention to the bell seat, as this is where you will place the sealing rubber.
5. Having previously coated the rubber seal with a special lubricant, place it in the socket.
6. Place a new structural element in the rubber ring.

Precautions in repairing cast iron pipes

When working with such pipes, be sure to remember that cast iron is a relatively brittle material with its endurance. If you hit the metal hammer hard or too hard, the wall will vibrate, which may cause cracks. If this happens, the replacement of damaged sections will be long and expensive. Therefore, when preparing for dismantling, stock up on the necessary tools in advance.

Don't work alone, it is unsafe and difficult. Better call someone for help.

It's important to know that sulfur fumes can be harmful to health, so use a gas mask, in extreme cases, a respirator and goggles. Also take care of good air circulation in the room where the repair work is taking place.

After removing the pipe from the socket, take the time and attention to clean the seat of this part. So you will ensure the installation of the sealing material without defects and distortions.

Immediately pack all dismantled material and garbage into construction bags, tie and throw away. An unpleasant smell will come from the old pipeline.

If you are caulking cast iron pipes for the first time and after reading this article, you still do not understand how to do it, be sure to contact a professional. For an experienced craftsman, the process of dismantling cast iron pipes will take 25-30 minutes, while a beginner can spend more than 3 hours and with an unknown result.

Chasing cast iron - some nuances

Many articles have been written about how to mint a cast-iron pipe, so I would like to summarize everything written in them. First you need to decide on the scope of the work to be performed, as well as what tools are needed to complete them, how much and what materials will need to be purchased for a complete and high-quality repair.

What will be required from the tools? First of all, you need a grinder complete with a 230 mm disc. You need a hammer with a rubber or wood tip, a chisel and pliers.

If there is no grinder, you can take a regular hacksaw, but then it will take more time to complete the work.

Note! The reliability of fixing new pipes depends on the quality of the caulking.

First you need to get rid of the old toilet so that there is more space to work. It is important to know that if it was planted on a cement-sand mortar, it will have to be broken up and a new one bought.

Having started to dismantle a segment of the old pipe, the person repairing the sewer may not know exactly how the connection was fixed and how it was minted. If a cable was used, then there is a possibility that the pipe can be removed by loosening, without cutting anything out and thereby saving time. To do this, gently tap the pipe with a hammer and try to loosen it. If it works, then continue to loosen further. After the pipe is taken out, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the socket.

If the pipe was connected using a sealing fill, then you will have to use a grinder, since the cast iron has practically “fused” with the fill during operation.

Note! It is best to saw off the pipe above the socket, and not in some other place, and do not forget to use goggles and a respirator or face mask. It is most practical to use a disk of about 230 mm.

What is already cut off can be removed - this piece is no longer needed.

The most difficult is ahead. With the same disk, we carefully make up to four cuts on the remaining end of the pipe, but so as not to touch the socket. Using a hammer (normal) and a chisel, you need to pry off the pieces of metal and the remnants of the old fill and remove them with pliers. It is desirable that none of these residues fall into the sewer pipe.

After removing all elements of the old connection, that is, metal and pouring particles, the surface is completely cleaned from the inside, if necessary - it should be dried using a building hair dryer or wiping it with a dry cloth.

Preparation for caulking pipes

warming up the pipe before caulking

First stage

So, we begin the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe.

It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and therefore sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.
the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer
correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

Chasing

Pipe branch

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What is pipe stamping?

Why, despite the abundance of innovative materials, good old cast iron is still used in the construction of sewer communications? Because this material has high strength, and its consumer characteristics make it possible to make strong and reliable pipes from it that can withstand high loads even in urban sewer networks, and not just in household ones at their summer cottage.

The socket connection guarantees a quick installation of the system. To ensure the sealing of the joints, the chasing of sewer pipes is used. It is one of the technological operations and is produced by ramming the sealant into the seam between the socket and the pipe. And in modern socketless SML communications, a cast-iron SML tee is used to organize branches, the tightness of which is ensured by special stainless steel clamps with seals.

Chasing of cast iron sewer pipes is carried out at the entrance of the intra-apartment riser to the apartment, as well as at the exit of the fan pipe - a communication element installed in residential buildings and having more than one floor level, designed to prevent odors from entering the room from the sewer.

But, if, for example, SML systems are designed for use in non-pressure networks, then traditional cast iron systems withstand hydraulic pressure up to 0.1 MPa. At the same time, high-quality chasing of sockets of cast-iron pipes is a critical operation in the process of installing the system, since the entire operation of the pipeline as a whole depends on the degree of sealing reliability. Chasing cast iron pipes can be done in several ways using different materials.

What materials are used

Chasing a pipe in a sewer system can be done using:

• cables;
• filling with gray.

And, if pouring with sulfur is considered the old Soviet way, then chasing pipes with a cable can be done by hand with minimal theoretical training and a set of tools.

Kabolka is a rope made of flax, hemp or jute impregnated with antiseptic and resinous substances. It is used for sealing joints and seams of sockets and, thanks to impregnation, provides high resistance to decay and biostability. The consumption of cable for chasing pipes is calculated based on their dimensions: the length of the strand must exceed the circumference of the pipe by 25%, and its thickness must be such that it fits snugly into the annular gap. In this case, the cable must be laid into the socket with three bundles so that the overlaps of its ends are in different places along the circumference of the pipe. In the construction of sewer systems, tarred strands are sometimes replaced with rubber rings.

The joint over the cable is sealed with different filler materials. They provide complete tightness of the connection, prevent the extrusion of the cable under pressure from the contents of the system. Used as a placeholder:

• cement;
• asbestos cement;
• lead.

The disadvantage of cement-based aggregates is their relative stiffness. If a leak forms at the joint, it is impossible to seal it without preliminary caulking, with minimal time and labor costs. Although asbestos cement is used to seal the joints of the sockets of cast-iron pipes, it has a higher elasticity compared to cement.

If sealing the seams of sockets with cement and asbestos cement is not difficult, then chasing cast-iron pipes with lead is a more complicated procedure and requires skills. After caulking the gap with a resin strand, a rope is placed in the socket gap, which is covered with a layer of clay on top. With the help of free ends, after almost complete drying of the binder, the rope is pulled out of the socket gap, and straightened lead is poured into the sprue formed in its place. In order for the vapors formed in the socket slot during its filling with lead to freely go outside, a hole is pierced in the side of the sprue.

Technology: main stages

Chasing the sockets of cast iron pipes begins with the identification of the type of sealant material. It can be cable or sulfur. After removing the waterproofing solution, you can determine which "seal" is in the socket.

If, after removing the waterproofing, when trying to loosen the joint, the process went quite easily, and the pipe began to swing or turn, we can assume that half of the work has already been done. This means that the socket is pressed with a cable and, in order to remove it, you just need to gently loosen the pipe, use a screwdriver to pick up part of the strand and pull out the entire roll. The procedure for dismantling a pipe installed on a cable is much simpler than caulking cast-iron pipes with sulfur.

If the nozzle is mounted on sulfur, the caulking procedure also begins with the removal of the waterproofing. But after that, the joint is heated with a blowtorch, as a result of which the joint sealant is completely melted. After the connection has cooled down, the pipe can be easily unscrewed from the socket.

Caution: chasing! Safety

When carrying out caulking, safety regulations must be observed. Personal protective equipment is especially important when removing a sulfur filling. When heated, sulfur releases a toxic gas that can cause poisoning if inhaled. Therefore, the caulking of the pipe on sulfur should be carried out in a gas mask.

When removing waterproofing - cement or asbestos cement - with a hammer and chisel, as well as when cleaning the pipe from sulfur residues, you should wear goggles.

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Chasing a cast iron pipe

The one who assumes that it is easier to dismantle a sewer pipe than to install is mistaken. The first stage on the way to replacing an unusable element is the chasing of sewer pipes, or rather chasing. It takes a lot of hard work and dedication to do this job. This job is quite dirty and unpleasant.

Chasing a sewer pipe is required if the socket method was used during installation work.

Note! Chasing is performed in different ways, depending on which method was used to give strength and reliability to the connection.

To figure out how to caulk a sewer pipe, it is necessary to determine whether a sealant or sealant is used to connect cast iron pipes to each other.

• Chasing the pipe on the seal begins with the fact that it is tedious to beat off the waterproofing layer with a special rubberized hammer. After that, the joint is loosened, the camboca is removed, the sewer pipe is removed from the socket.
• The caulking of the pipe on the sealant is performed a little differently. First you need to tap the joint, then remove the waterproofing layer, burn the sealant with a blowtorch. Once the pipe has cooled, it can be easily removed from the socket.

Note! After the caulking has been done and the damaged part of the cast iron sewer pipe has been removed, it is not recommended to install a replacement from that material. It is better to replace the cast iron pipe with a plastic counterpart. Plastic is in no way inferior to cast iron, but is a lighter and cheaper material, and besides, it does not corrode.

Methods for caulking sewer pipes

When installing a sewer system using cast-iron pipes, which are connected in a “bell” way, voids are formed at the joints, which can adversely affect the functioning of the sewer. In order for the connection to be reliable and durable, caulking of sewer pipes is required. It can be made using different materials. Most often it is cement and asbestos cement.

Use of cement mortar

First you need to mount the resin seal in its place. The tarred rope must be tamped into the hole of the sewer pipe and the socket. After the formation of the first ring of the tourniquet, we overlap its end from above so that it cannot penetrate the pipe in any way.

Now you need to prepare the cement mortar. To do this, cement is poured with water, in a ratio of 9: 1. As soon as the solution cools down a bit, they need to fill in the junction. Using a hammer, we drive the cement into the joint. For a better fight between the solution and the tarred rope, it is necessary to cover the cemented joint with a damp cloth afterward.

Note! If you use extended caulking and embossing in the course of work, the installation speed will increase by 30%. If caulking is performed during the cold season, the cement mortar is prepared not in cold, but in hot water. After completing the work, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the joints.

The use of asbestos cement

The asbestos-cement mixture is also suitable for performing work on the sewer cast-iron pipe. In this case, the workflow will be slightly different.

• First you need to make a solution. To do this, in a container, mix a mixture of dry asbestos fiber with cement. For one part of the mixture you need to take two parts of cement.
• Now the resulting mixture needs to be slightly diluted with water so that it adds 10-12% of the mass, stir until smooth.

There is no fundamental difference in how the sockets of sewer pipes are caulked with an asbestos-cement mixture or cement mortar.

Note! Cast iron is a rather fragile material despite all its technical characteristics. During operation, it is exposed to water, solid waste, aggressive chemicals. In order to extend the life and improve the quality of service of sewer pipes made of this material, it is necessary to caulk the connections.

Before you start doing the work with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of caulking. The procedure is quite complicated and time consuming. Without even the slightest experience in carrying out construction work, you should not even take on the execution of caulking.

In this case, it is better to entrust the work to professionals, since if you make the slightest mistake, there is a risk of worsening the properties of the sewer system, which will reduce its durability, and the strength and reliability of the structure will suffer. For specialists, there is nothing difficult about how to mint a sewer pipe. They do the job quickly and efficiently. But if you are confident in your abilities, nothing will stop you from doing the work yourself.

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Source: heating.site

Preparation for repair

Sometimes it becomes necessary to repair some part of the sewerage system. However, such repairs can not always be made without disconnecting the pipes. When it is required to replace a pipeline section, you should first inspect the place of future work to determine how the pipes were connected to each other at one time.

Often the main difficulty lies in the fact that pipes, especially those located in the ground, are filled with a special compound that prevents them from separating. In this case, the question arises of how to emboss a cast-iron pipe without much effort and time.

Pipe chasing technology

Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes, carried out when replacing a riser or changing a toilet bowl, can create no less of a problem. In this case, it becomes necessary to caulk the branch pipe of the cast-iron pipe as accurately as possible. The embossing process looks like this:

1. The first action to be taken is to tap the socket of the pipe with a hammer, being careful not to split it, in order to avoid a complete replacement of the riser.
2. After making sure that the bell moves quite freely and can be released without any problems, since it was caulked with a heel, you can proceed with dismantling:
   • slightly loosen the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • firmly grab the rope with pliers;
   • gently, slowly, pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the tube.

1. In the case when the bell does not budge after tapping, that is, the caulking of cast-iron pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur, you will have to use the method of burning it out:
   • carefully heat the pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or burner;
   • trying not to damage the pipe, continue gently tapping the pipe with a hammer;
   • when the bell starts to move, slightly loosen it from side to side with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the bell is safely released, it must be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. Particular care should be taken to clean the socket seat, where the sealing rubber will be placed.
2. Coat the rubber seal with special grease and insert into the socket.
3. Install a new part in the seal.

Video of the caulking process

How cast-iron pipes are caulked - the video below will show even more clearly.

Chasing pipes

When assembling a system consisting of cast-iron pipes, it is necessary to foresee a method for closing the gaps that remain invariably between the outer side of the inserted part of the pipe and the inner surface of the socket. That is, you should think about how to mint cast-iron pipes. There are two ways to solve the problem, let's consider them in more detail.

Sealing of sockets with cement mixture

The chasing technology looks like this:

1. Resin seal installation.

• caulk the resin tourniquet into the socket up to 2/3 of its depth;
• when forming the first rope ring, wrap the end of the bundle over the ring so that it does not fall into the pipe.

1. The use of cement mortar.

• mix cement marking 300-400 with water (by weight) in a ratio of 9:1;
• the place remaining after compaction of the bundle in the socket should be filled with cement mortar;
• firmly strike the cement with a chasing and a hammer until the chasing rebounds from the cement;
• for a better setting of the solution after caulking, cover it with a wet rag.

To increase work productivity, it is worth using broadened caulking and embossing, which will speed up the process by about 30%.

Sealing of sockets with asbestos cement

Another way to caulk a cast-iron pipe is to use an asbestos-cement mixture. The process has two differences:

1. A dry mixture of asbestos fiber and cement is prepared by mixing them in a ratio of 1:2.
2. Before direct use, the dry mixture is moistened with water: from 10 to 12% of the initial mass of the mixture.

The chasing technology itself looks similar to the first method.

On this, a rather laborious work - chasing and / or chasing cast-iron pipes - is completed. To achieve the best result, however, such work should be entrusted to qualified specialists. Only in this case, you can be sure that everything will be done correctly, and you will not have to deal with more complex repairs, eliminating the flaws of poor-quality installation or dismantling.

Source: vse-o-trubah.ru

Work method

Depressurization of cast iron components is considered one of the very difficult tasks for self-repairing sewers. To perform the work as efficiently and quickly as possible, it is recommended to prepare in advance all the tools that you need.

To complete the work, you need:

• angle grinder (with its help you can cut off part of the pipe);
• grinding discs;
• goggles, gloves and a mask;
• soldering iron (needed to heat the joints);
• a hammer;
• screwdrivers of various sizes and combinations;
• pipe wrench;
• chisel.

Worth paying attention! To prevent the spread of bad odors around the room and the penetration of various debris into the pipeline, close the drain hole with a piece of cloth.

The sequence of work performed:

1. The first step before caulking a cast iron sewer pipe is to tap the joint with a hammer. However, this must be done carefully. Otherwise, you can ruin the structure, which leads to a complete replacement of the riser. It is also possible to carry out similar actions, often using a tool made of wood.
2. As soon as you finish tapping, you need to look at the condition of the fasteners. If the pipe goes from side to side, and it is possible to disconnect it, you need to do the following. It is necessary to swing the product by prying it with a screwdriver. The rope should be touched with pliers and carefully removed.

Advice! During the procedure, you should pump the pipe more and more.

1. If even after frequent and prolonged knocks with a hammer, the pipe did not change its position, we conclude that the fastening was carried out using sulfuric solution. To remove the fasteners, the dried mixture should first be burned out. This can be achieved in stages. The first step is to heat the joints with a soldering iron. Do it in a circle. Next, you need to continue to knock with a hammer, trying not to change the integrity of the product. If the structure of the components began to stagger, you can try to dismantle the component using a key.

Heating the joints with a soldering iron

1. Having successfully dismantled the product, you should do a detailed cleaning of the joints with a chisel. The emphasis must be on cleaning the edges, as a rubber seal will be placed here.
2. Before installation, the sealing material must be lubricated with a specialized substance.
3. The last step is the process of installing a new product in the prepared area.

Cleaning the junction

When burning sulfur, it is imperative to wear a mask for protection and goggles. They will not allow harmful vapors to enter the body.

Avoiding problems

It must be remembered that the technical properties of cast iron are not perfect. Products made from such material are quite fragile. Bad cast iron is subject to deformation under the influence of the liquid, as well as the processes that take place in it. A change in temperature regimes can also have a bad effect on the stability of such pipes, which reduces their ability to carry strong pressures.

The process of chasing cast-iron sewer pipes, as can be seen from the publication, is the simplest. As for the installation, then it will take a little work.

During the installation of components, it is necessary to apply heated resin

The installed component must be properly fixed at the junction by applying a layer of resin. A tighter fixation can be achieved with the help of special tools. They are sold in building materials stores.

Advice! Before caulking a cast-iron sewer pipe, the first thing to do is to calculate the space for installing a new pipe and, if necessary, appliances for home use.

If your plumbing system needs partial replacement, then you should not debug this process. This is due to the fact that even the smallest crack can grow in a fairly quick time, which will entail high costs.

Connection of sewer pipes

When installing pipes in a sewer pipeline, free spaces may appear at the joints. Very often this affects the good operation of the system. For a strong connection with the removal of all holes and empty spaces, special materials have to be used. The most common options are the use of cement and asbestos cement.

The use of cement mortars

Cement mortar for sealing joints

The sealing material must be installed first. To do this, you have to use a rope, which is filled with resin in advance. Then the prepared sealant must be wrapped around the edge of the pipe from the outside. This will make it possible to avoid the penetration of the rope into the depth of the pipe.

Important! The use of special tools will increase the speed of work by a third.

Prepare the solution as follows. The ratio of water and cement should be 9:1. In cold weather, a perfectly heated liquid must be used. After allowing the mixture to cool, it is imperative to apply it to the attachment areas. You can tamp the solution inside the seams with a hammer. To equip a more reliable fastening of cement to the surface and other materials, it is necessary to cover the finished area with a wet cloth.

Compound with cement and asbestos

A mixture of cement and asbestos for sealing pipes

The method of applying an asbestos-based solution is similar to the previous method. It is best suited for the installation of pipes made of cast iron and other materials.

• Mix dry asbestos with cement in a bowl in a ratio of 1: 2;
• Next, you need to add a minimum amount of water and let the mixture stand a little. Then mix the composition until homogeneous.

It is impossible to say which is the best way to fasten pipes. With the correct use of each of the attachment methods, you can achieve excellent results.

In order to qualitatively perform work on the dismantling and strengthening of components, you need to know all the nuances and rules of the procedure. Actually, then you can be sure that your system will serve for long years and will not let you know about itself. The process consists of a large number of difficult actions. Thus, in order to qualitatively fix the connections of cast-iron sewer pipes with your own hands, you should follow the tips and advice.

Source: offthevylc.ru

The embossing is done in the following order

First, it is necessary to very carefully, without undue effort, tap the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer in order to avoid complete replacement of the riser section in case of cracking.
By slightly loosening the dismantled pipe, it is necessary to make sure that the bell can move and rotate freely on the sides and can be gradually released from the chasing with a cable. Now you can dismantle it in the following order:
in all directions it is necessary to loosen the socket;
gradually pull out the rope and pick it with a thin straight object with a screwdriver or some kind of rod;
the rope must be firmly grasped with pliers;
continue to slowly loosen it and gently pull the rope.

The ineffectual tapping and immobility of the bell indicate that the chasing was performed using a special sulfur filling. In this case, it is necessary to perform the direct burnout procedure according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to carefully heat the socket section of the cast-iron pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or gas burner, while you must not forget to continue loosening, unscrewing and tapping the socket part of the pipe;

After it has moved from the place of the old embedment, it is necessary to continue to loosen it with the help of some tool, an adjustable wrench, etc.
After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully clean with any cutting tool a knife, chisel or chisel. When cleaning, special attention should be paid to the socket seat, on which sealing rubber will subsequently be installed.
Place greased into the cleaned socket. Install the required assembly in the seal.

Coin options

In order to firmly and hermetically construct a sewer system from cast-iron pipelines and parts for it, it is imperative to provide for the correct option for sealing the resulting gap filling the void between the pipes, which is always shown when the inner socket part of the pipe is butt-joined with its outer surface part.
It should be noted that the choice of the necessary consumables, the appropriate special tools for sealing work and the amount of time spent depend on the method of sealing the connection of cast-iron pipes. It is proposed to consider the currently existing two options for caulking cast iron joints.
1. The first option is the use of cement mortar

The procedure for sealing pipe joints with cement mortar consists of the following steps:
In the resulting gap between the pipes, it is necessary to lay a special tarred sealant. To make such a gasket, a conventional tourniquet pre-tarred in a special solution is used, which is driven into the gap formed between the pipe and the socket to a depth equal to 2/3 of the gap space. After creating the first sealing ring, it is necessary to put the end of the rope (tow) on top of this ring so that it does not end up inside the pipe being installed.
Next, it is necessary to seal the remaining part of the depth of the gap (1/3 of the remaining space) between the pipes with the prepared mortar from cement, which is already compacted with a tarred tourniquet in front of this. In order to increase the density and reliability of the caulking of the joints, it is required to use a special coinage together with a hammer, with which it is necessary to carefully tamp the cement mortar. The moment of the end of caulking is considered to be the beginning of rebounds of the caulking from the clogged cement seal. In order to obtain a high-quality setting of the cement mortar, it is necessary to cover the compacted area with a wet cloth, for example, gauze.
In order to prepare a cement mortar, you will need to purchase cement grade 300400. It must be mixed with water in a ratio of 9/1.
You can increase the speed of work when caulking with the help of special tools such as broadened caulking and caulking. At the same time, the entire process is accelerated by 30%.
If the work is carried out in winter at low ambient temperatures, then the cement mortar in this case must be kneaded in heated water, and it is also necessary to perform temporary insulation of the pipe joint sealed with cement.

2. The second option is the use of asbestos cement

This process is slightly different from the previous one and has its own procedure:
It is necessary to knead the asbestos fiber in a dry state with cement in a ratio of 1/2, respectively;
The collected dry mix must be kneaded in water before being used as a seal between pipes. The volume of water in the solution should be about 1012% of the total volume of the prepared mixture.
The process of caulking the gap between the pipes is carried out in a similar way in accordance with the established procedure for the first option for sealing the joints.

Such a procedure as chasing or chasing connections between has its own difficulties and difficulties with its own nuances and tricks. Therefore, in order to achieve a positive result with such laborious work, it is recommended to seek help from knowledgeable and experienced professionals. In this case, there is a guarantee that you can get rid of unnecessary hassle and costs during an unplanned replacement of risers as a result, for example, of unsuccessful tapping with a hammer of the socket part of the sewer pipe.

Cast iron is a heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant, durable material that can withstand heavy loads. Its main purpose is the device of sewer and water communication. But you should not completely pin your hopes on the cast-iron sewer, since it also has disadvantages, they need special care and repair. In this article, we will look at how to caulk cast-iron pipes with your own hands.

In order to exclude depressurization of individual sections of communications, it is necessary to repair the internal pipes in a timely manner and take preventive measures, removing lime deposits, rust and other organic growths from their surface.

Chasing

The essence of the preparatory work is to inspect and determine the welded places. There are two methods for gluing cast iron pipe parts: gluing the elements with a welding seam and pouring with a solution. Bonding of parts with a special solution is used if it is necessary to combine pipes of various configurations and diameters. And with a welding seam, fan pipes of the same diameter are mainly glued together. After a visual inspection of the sewer and determining the complexity of the work, you can proceed to the next stage - dismantling.

Most often, over the years, pipes grow together so strongly that it is very difficult to disassemble the sewer. In this case, you need a gas cutter, with which you can disconnect the spliced ​​sections in a short period of time and without effort.

Before proceeding with the caulking of pipes, it is necessary to turn off the water supply. If possible, it is necessary to shut off the water supply system.

The designated section of the pipe, which is to be replaced, is sawn off by a grinder. When sawing damaged areas, strong blows should not be made in order to prevent the formation of cracks in subsequent sections.
After the removal of damaged sections of the pipe is completed, they proceed to install a new pipe with a certain margin for its expansion.

The edges of the pipe, which are inserted into the pipe, are fixed together with a resin strand using a caulk.

Pipe branch

This process is very complex and differs markedly from the previous method. This is argued by the fact that this area is risky and if the caulking is carried out incorrectly, then the riser can be split along the drop line.

Before you start disassembling the pipe, you need to take a hammer and tap on the entire surface of the socket. When tapping, you can determine the method of embossing.

If the bell easily gives in and staggers, then it was minted with a rope and a camboca. In this case, you will need an ordinary screwdriver and pliers. When loosening, a rope should appear, which must be hooked with a screwdriver and taken out to the surface. To make it easier to pull out the rope, it must be grabbed with pliers at the same time, without ceasing to loosen the socket.

Chasing a cast-iron pipe with sulfur eliminates deformation and loosening, therefore, not a hammer or other percussion tool will help with this. In this case, you will need a blowtorch or a gas burner to burn the sulfur seam. From a high temperature, sulfur will begin to dry out and fall off. After the sulfur has crumbled, take a hammer and follow the same procedure as described in the previous method of caulking a pipe with a rope.

Perform tapping until the bell starts to move, so that it is convenient to loosen the bell, take an adjustable wrench and begin to carry out oscillatory movements from side to side, pulling it towards you. The loosened socket is taken out with a chisel and cleaned.

The saddle should be flat without distortions so that the sealing gum lies tightly to the surface.

The surface of the gum is coated with silicone and inserted into the tee of the bell. At this stage, the caulking and caulking of the cast-iron pipe is completed.

Video

We bring to your attention a video dedicated to chasing pipes.

Cast iron pipes tend to be strongly associated with sewerage. Few people know that for more than two centuries they have been massively used for laying water supply lines. In this material, we will study the features of cast-iron water pipes, the GOST requirements for them, the methods of installation and repair used.

Cast iron or steel

Those who were in the cellars of Peterhof must have paid attention to the massive pipes that supply water to its famous fountains. This is one of the oldest cast-iron water pipes functioning to our time. It was built to last; at the same time, the builders of the royal residence, frankly, did not particularly consider the costs.

In the second half of the last century, economic expediency came to the fore. Indeed, why build a water supply system with a century and a half resource, if in 40 years the city area will be expanded and rebuilt with the laying of new highways?

It was then that steel main water pipes became widespread - relatively cheap and, most importantly, much more technologically advanced in terms of installation.

Tip: electric welding and external waterproofing with bitumen are performed much faster than manual chasing with pouring a socket.

The consequences of savings are quite predictable and are still being felt:

• The resource of a pipe laid in the ground, despite waterproofing measures, rarely exceeds 30-40 years. After this time, numerous fistulas in it make the amount of drinking water loss unacceptable.

It is curious: according to local authorities, in Sevastopol, the city where the author of the article lives, 40% of water is lost due to the deterioration of the water supply network.

• Not only that: the steel pipe is actively overgrown with lime deposits and rust from the inside. For a couple of decades, the clearance can decrease by 3-4 times with a corresponding drop in pressure and patency.

And how does cast iron look against this dull background?

• With the proper quality of external waterproofing, the actual service life of a pipe laid in the ground is at least a century.
• The pipeline practically does not overgrow from the inside.

The only problem with a cast-iron water pipe is its great sensitivity to ground movements: where the steel pipe is slightly deformed, the cast-iron pipe will burst.

Standard

The current iron standard was introduced in 1977; the last changes were made to the text quite recently, in 2011. So, what should be the cast-iron pipes for water supply in accordance with GOST 9583-95?

Dimensions

The standard provides for cast-iron water pipes of three classes according to wall thickness - LA, A and B.

Conditional passage, mm	Wall thickness, mm
	LA	BUT	B
65	6,7	7,4	8,0
80	7,2	7,9	8,6
100	7,5	8,3	9,0
125	7,9	8,7	9,5
150	8,3	9,2	10,0
200	9,2	10,1	11,0
250	10,0	11,0	12,0
300	10,8	11,9	13,0
350	11,7	12,8	14,0
400	12,5	13,8	15,0
500	14,2	15,6	17,0
600	15,8	17,4	19,0
700	17,5	19,3	21,0
800	19,2	21,1	23,0
900	20,6	22,3	25,0
1000	22,5	24,8	27,0

The mass of a linear meter of the pipe varies from 11.3 kg (65 mm, class LA) to 627 kg (1000 mm, class B). The standard provides for the production of socket pipes of measured length (2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9 and 10 meters) and random lengths from 2 to 10.5 m.

Requirements

The transition of the cylinder into the socket can be made with a slope or in the form of a ledge.

The dimensions of cast iron pipes for water supply may differ from the nominal within the following limits:

• Length of a measured pipe - +-20.
• Wall thickness - -1 + 0.5.
• Outer diameter (up to 300 mm) - + - (4.5 + 0.0015D).
• Outer diameter (over 300 mm) - +(4.0+0.0015D) -(5.0+-0.0015D).
• Inner diameter in the socket - + (2.5 + 0.002 D) - (1.5 + 0.002D).

Please note: D is taken as the nominal diameter when calculating tolerances.

The ovality cannot lead the pipe beyond the normalized deviations from the nominal size. The deviation of the actual mass of the pipe from the calculated one cannot exceed five percent. Pipes undergo hydraulic pressure tests, which are determined by their class and nominal size.

Note: the working pressure in the water supply lines usually does not exceed 3-4 atmospheres.
Up to 8-10 kgf / cm2, it can rise only after pumping, within the engineering system of a house or a small microdistrict.

The end of the pipe, opposite the socket, must be cut perpendicular to its axis with a deviation of not more than 0.5 degrees.

Inside and outside of the product are covered with a protective non-toxic material. In this case, the coating should not interfere with the sealing of the butt joint, peel off and soften at temperatures up to +60 C.

Important: at the request of the customer, pipeline elements can be supplied uncoated.

Installation and repair

How to caulk a cast-iron water pipe during installation? Can cracks and chipped sockets be repaired?

The main stage is its compaction with a cable, oiled organic fiber. The bundle fits into the centered socket connection as tightly as possible, after which it is additionally compacted manually using a chasing and a hammer.

It is not enough to seal the joint: the cable must be protected from biological decomposition, mechanical damage and other adversities.

How it's done?

• Ordinary cement brand 400. The water-cement mixture, prepared in a ratio of 1: 9, is hammered into the socket as tightly as possible and compacted by chasing until it starts to bounce off the cement plug. Then the socket is wrapped with wet rags for up to a day.

• Asbestos-cement mixture, prepared in a ratio of 1:2, followed by the addition of 10 - 12 volume percent of water. It compacts like cement; asbestos fibers prevent cracking.

Important: with the same success, you can use fiber - chopped fiberglass.

• Expanding cement. Unlike conventional, it does not require sealing.
• Sulfur melt with the addition of 10 - 15% ground kaolin. For obvious reasons, only a vertical or inclined socket can be poured; as a rule, gray assemblies are factory sealed.
• Lead melt.
• Finally, lead can be used for embossing on top of the caboose.. A thin bar of soft metal tightly fills the groove, reliably protecting the organic fiber.

Important: Lead and its compounds are toxic.
Asbestos fiber and fiber are also not so good for the respiratory system.
Hence the obvious instruction: when doing the corresponding work with your own hands, do not forget about personal protective equipment.

Repair of cast-iron water pipes is possible only with minor transverse or longitudinal cracks at a distance from the socket: in this case, a prefabricated cast-iron or steel clamp with a rubber gasket is applied to the pipeline section. In other cases (chipped sockets, longitudinal cracks of considerable length), the pipeline section is replaced.

Alternatives

VChSHG

First meeting

Under this abbreviation lies the so-called ductile cast iron with nodular graphite.

To explain the meaning of the term, you need to briefly delve into the jungle of physics.

• All the main differences between cast iron and steel - brittleness, low ductility and high resistance to corrosion - are determined by the presence in it of one of the forms of carbon - graphite.
• Ordinary graphite has the appearance of miniature flat flakes. However, during recrystallization, which occurs when certain additives (in particular, magnesium and its compounds) are introduced into the gray cast iron melt, it changes its shape to spherical.
• At the same time, the physical properties of the metal change significantly: it acquires toughness, ductility and resistance to shock loads, while maintaining corrosion resistance.

What is especially pleasant is that the price of a ton of material changes slightly during transformation. The total proportion of additives that cause carbon recrystallization does not exceed 0.08% by weight of cast iron.

Socketed water pipes made of ductile iron today are the main alternative to gray cast iron.

• They surpass cast iron pipes in compressive and bending strength, not to mention all types of polymer pipes. Accordingly, water supply lines can be laid with ductile iron pipes under busy highways and on unstable soils. They have all the qualities of steel, except for their Achilles' heel - low resistance to corrosion.
• The problem of time-consuming and low-tech chasing of bells has been completely solved. Instead of embossing, bells with annular rubber seals are used. Of course, with significant pipe sizes, the assembly of sockets involves the use of heavy equipment; however, the mass of these pipes will in any case prevent manual installation of the pipeline.

Note!
The use of rubber seals makes it possible to slightly deform the socket connection (change in the mutual position of the pipes) without impairing the tightness.

Normative documents

The production of elements of pressure pipelines from ductile iron is regulated by a separate standard - GOST R ISO 2531-2008.

Let's highlight its key points.

1. According to the document, pipes and fittings can have nominal sizes from 40 to 2600 millimeters, which makes it possible to use ductile iron to create highways that feed entire cities.
2. The composition of the metal, according to GOST, should not have a harmful effect on the composition of water.
3. The length of the pipes is regulated by the standard depending on their nominal diameter:

The maximum allowable curvature is no more than 0.125% of the pipe length.

As an external coating of the pipeline, depending on the operating conditions, the following can be used:

• Metal zinc.
• Zinc paint (zinc powder in a polymer binder).
• Polyethylene.
• Polyurethane.
• Fiber cement.
• Adhesive polymer tape.
• Epoxy resin.
• Bituminous mastic or paint.

For internal protection of pipes and fittings, the use of:

• Cement mortars (Portland cement, Portland slag cement and aluminous cement).
• Polyethylene.
• polyurethane.
• Epoxy resin.
• Bituminous paint (mastics).

The marking of pipeline elements should indicate:

• Manufacturer (name or trademark).
• Year of manufacture.
• Indication of the material (VChShG).
• nominal size.
• The standard to which the product is manufactured.

Polyethylene

Polyethylene pressure pipes are the main alternative to cast iron plumbing today.

A detailed acquaintance with them is clearly beyond the scope of our material, so we will pay attention only to their key properties.

• The service life of polyethylene is estimated by manufacturers as a vague "50+" years. In practice, this material can be considered almost eternal.
• Deposits on the walls, which reduce the lumen of the pipe, cannot be in principle. The smooth surface of the polymer with extremely low adhesive qualities simply does not allow blockages to form.
• All connections are made by butt welding. The strength of the joint is at least 80% of the strength of the whole pipe.

The only claim to polyethylene, which allows cast-iron pipes to remain on the market to this day, is high ductility and, as a result, very moderate ring stiffness. A polyethylene main pipeline can be laid in deformable soil only with protection by a reinforced concrete gutter.

Conclusion

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need an additional outlet or an existing outlet has become unusable. How to proceed?

Chased pipe before starting work

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

warming up the pipe before caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and therefore sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it is better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a rammed rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it out all the way, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of minting in Soviet times was pouring sulfur compounds into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you will have to use the only effective method - heating. Be sure to remember a simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if you have a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the bell, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

This article will discuss the caulking of cast-iron pipes - what this procedure is, how to prepare for it and prevent the need to perform it, as well as an example of caulking using the example of a cast-iron pipe.

Cast iron is a material with very high strength as well as high weight. The density of the structure allows the manufacture of massive and strong products from it that can withstand significant loads, due to which cast iron pipes are used as elements of water supply and sewerage systems.

Even with the development of chemical production and the active use of pipes from various plastic options, when laying an external water supply, cast iron is most often used as a more serious material. are usually used in the construction of sewerage systems with very heavy loads, significantly exceeding household ones.

Buildings of catering establishments, factories processing meat and other animal products, etc. they constantly create a stream of waste, quite often leading to ruptures of cast iron pipes, which should be immediately repaired.

And taking into account the fact that the caulking and caulking of cast iron pipes is quite difficult, experts recommend conducting annual scheduled inspections to avoid time-consuming repairs.

Start and sequence of repairs

It is necessary to think about how to emboss a cast-iron pipe if it is necessary to replace the element and it is impossible to correct the damage directly at the site of the accident.

First of all, they carry out preparatory work, that is, they carefully inspect the pipes and figure out exactly how they are welded to each other.

Quite often you have to deal with pipes filled with a special solution used to glue their parts.

In this case, while underground, the elements can grow together so firmly that they cannot be detached without effort. At the same time, experts recommend using a gas cutter, which allows you to quickly remove the fastening compound and separate the pipes.

Speaking of chasing a cast-iron pipe, it should be borne in mind that the work ahead is not easy and requires turning off the water in the whole house or even the area if an important area is being repaired.

Pipe preparation for repair is carried out using special tools:

1. Cut off the damaged or burst area with a grinder;
2. Install a new part of the pipe in place of the damage;
3. The seam is closed with a construction bandage with cement.

Preventing the Problem from Occurring

It should be borne in mind that with all the excellent physical qualities, cast iron is a rather fragile material. It deforms under the action of water and the chemical reactions that occur in it, so all changes affect the pipes, including temperature changes, which makes them fragile and unable to withstand high pressure.

Chasing cast-iron pipes is a rather complex process, the high-quality implementation of which includes leaving a certain margin for its expansion.

The new part of the pipe is inserted into the socket, after which the seam must be securely fixed with a resin strand. To tightly lay and secure the threads, a tool such as caulking is used.

Practical experience shows that the formation of cracks is only part of the problem, which grows if drastic measures are not taken. Patching holes with the help of special compounds temporarily helps, but sooner or later a replacement will still be required, so it’s easier to deal with the breakdown right away.

Chasing a cast iron pipe

When replacing a sewer riser, a lounger from a common riser, a toilet bowl, etc. many faced the problem of caulking a cast-iron pipe. It turned out that the procedure is not as simple as it seems.

Let us consider in more detail the process of caulking a cast-iron pipe:

• At the same time, they begin to loosen the socket in different directions;
• Pry off the rope with a screwdriver;
• Grab the rope with pliers;
• Slowly pull the rope, loosening the bell.

1. If the socket sits firmly, this indicates that it is most likely filled with sulfur and knocking on it is useless. In this case, using a burner or a blowtorch, they start in a circle. In this case, you should also be careful not to damage the socket.

Important: when burning sulfur, it is imperative to wear a respirator, since this procedure causes significant harm to health, even death.