Do-it-yourself chasing of cast-iron pipes. Chasing cast iron pipes Chasing pipes

A modern sewer system is a complex structure that at times increases the comfort of life for the inhabitants of a country house or an apartment in a multi-storey building. In order for the sewerage system to function properly, during the installation process it is necessary to ensure that everything is done correctly, otherwise you may encounter trouble during operation.

Over time, sewer pipes fail and need to be replaced. Considering that in most Soviet-era buildings, mainly cast-iron pipes were used to install the sewer system, now it is necessary to carry out either a complete replacement or a partial one.

Chasing and chasing sewer pipes

Note! Cast iron pipes under the influence of aggressive factors from the outside can lose their functionality and fail in exactly the same way as plastic products and steel pipes.

An important place in the process of repairing sewer pipes made of cast iron is their caulking and caulking - procedures that are carried out using special technologies and building materials.

The one who assumes that it is easier to dismantle a sewer pipe than to install is mistaken. The first stage on the way to replacing an unusable element is the chasing of sewer pipes, or rather chasing. It takes a lot of hard work and dedication to do this job. This job is quite dirty and unpleasant.

Chasing a sewer pipe is required if the socket method was used during installation work.

Note! Chasing is performed in different ways, depending on which method was used to give strength and reliability to the connection.

To figure out how to caulk a sewer pipe, it is necessary to determine whether a sealant or sealant is used to connect cast iron pipes to each other.

• Chasing the pipe on the seal begins with the fact that it is tedious to beat off the waterproofing layer with a special rubberized hammer. After that, the joint is loosened, the camboca is removed, the sewer pipe is removed from the socket.
• The caulking of the pipe on the sealant is performed a little differently. First you need to tap the joint, then remove the waterproofing layer, burn the sealant with a blowtorch. Once the pipe has cooled, it can be easily removed from the socket.

Note! After the caulking has been done and the damaged part of the cast iron sewer pipe has been removed, it is not recommended to install a replacement from that material. It is better to replace the cast iron pipe with a plastic counterpart. Plastic is in no way inferior to cast iron, but is a lighter and cheaper material, and besides, it does not corrode.

Methods for caulking sewer pipes

When installing a sewer system using cast-iron pipes, which are connected in a “bell” way, voids are formed at the joints, which can adversely affect the functioning of the sewer. In order for the connection to be reliable and durable, caulking of sewer pipes is required. It can be made using different materials. Most often it is cement and asbestos cement.

Use of cement mortar

First you need to mount the resin seal in its place. The tarred rope must be tamped into the hole of the sewer pipe and the socket. After the formation of the first ring of the tourniquet, we overlap its end from above so that it cannot penetrate the pipe in any way.

Methods for caulking sewer pipes

Now you need to prepare the cement mortar. To do this, cement is poured with water, in a ratio of 9: 1. As soon as the solution cools down a bit, they need to fill in the junction. Using a hammer, we drive the cement into the joint. For a better fight between the solution and the tarred rope, it is necessary to cover the cemented joint with a damp cloth afterward.

Note! If you use extended caulking and embossing in the course of work, the installation speed will increase by 30%. If caulking is performed during the cold season, the cement mortar is prepared not in cold, but in hot water. After completing the work, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the joints.

The use of asbestos cement

The asbestos-cement mixture is also suitable for performing work on the sewer cast-iron pipe. In this case, the workflow will be slightly different.

Chasing pipes

• First you need to make a solution. To do this, in a container, mix a mixture of dry asbestos fiber with cement. For one part of the mixture you need to take two parts of cement.
• Now the resulting mixture needs to be slightly diluted with water so that it adds 10-12% of the mass, stir until smooth.

There is no fundamental difference in how the sockets of sewer pipes are caulked with an asbestos-cement mixture or cement mortar.

Note! Cast iron is a rather fragile material despite all its technical characteristics. During operation, it is exposed to water, solid waste, aggressive chemicals. In order to extend the life and improve the quality of service of sewer pipes made of this material, it is necessary to caulk the connections.

Before you start doing the work with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of chasing. The procedure is quite complicated and time consuming. Without even the slightest experience in carrying out construction work, you should not even take on the execution of caulking.

The main advantage of cast iron is durability, its main disadvantage is brittleness. These two features must be taken into account when maintaining and repairing cast iron pressure pipes.
The brittleness of cast iron imposes certain requirements on the connection of cast iron pipes. On the one hand, it must be strong and tight, and on the other hand, it must be sufficiently elastic. The fact is that pipes laid in the ground do not lie motionless. The soils are also characterized by shrinkage and blurring. When freezing, the water in the ground expands. All this leads to the movement of the ground. The pipe, as they say, "walks". Traditionally this problem is solved chasing pipes- connecting pipes in such a way that there is a margin of elasticity at the joints.
The smooth end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. A small 3-5 mm gap remains at the junction, which is caulked two-thirds of the depth with a resin strand (cabole). The strand is a thin rope, which is inserted into the gap in layers. After each turn, the strand is compacted with a caulk - a special tool. Such a connection allows you to connect the pipe hermetically, but with a margin of elasticity.
To increase the strength of the joint, the remaining third of the gap is cemented or filled with lead. The second option is more reliable and preferable, because. connections in pressure pipes experience significant loads. Both procedures are quite complex and time-consuming. Cement behaves capriciously at high or low humidity, work with the melting of lead requires dexterity and additional preparations.
More advanced methods of connecting cast-iron pressure pipes are currently being used. For example, a socket with a rubber sealing ring and a socket-screw connection. But these compounds began to be used relatively recently. Recall that the advantage of cast iron is durability. The service life of cast iron pressure pipes is more than a hundred years. And, therefore, pipelines made according to old technologies are still actively exploited.
Chasing socket connection can be safely called the weakest point of the cast-iron pipeline. Under the influence of moisture, temperature changes and soil movement for decades, the coinage is destroyed. Typically, accidents caused destruction of coinage, are eliminated for a long time. Procedure minting time-consuming, requiring a certain skill. But even high qualification does not guarantee the absence of marriage. The liquidation of an accident is often carried out in difficult conditions: low temperatures, difficult access to the damaged area, watering of the pit, humidity that prevents the solution from hardening. Fussing with molten lead in such conditions is generally more like a repairman's nightmare. Alas, this dream often comes true. It is almost impossible to perform high-quality coinage during the liquidation of a complex accident.
Our company's product range includes a special type of fittings that can significantly reduce the time required to eliminate this type of accident and improve the quality of repair work on a cast-iron pipeline. This is a socket sealer DZ. With him, all work comes down to installing the product on the socket connection and fixing it with a conventional wrench. The rubber gasket securely seals the joint, without depriving it of the necessary elasticity, and the design itself firmly fixes the joint. Work can be carried out even without completely shutting off the pressure, but only by lowering it so that the leak does not interfere with the repair team. The reliability of the connection of cast-iron pressure pipes with the help of a socket joint sealer is several times higher than the reliability of traditional caulking. And, therefore, once the work is done, the problem will be eliminated once and for all.

Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes requires the contractor to fully comply with the rules of construction work and standards. In most cases, these issues have already been resolved for multi-apartment buildings, so this process is relevant for private houses and cottages. It is for this reason that owners need to know all the nuances of building a drainage system. In our article we will find out how to make a sewer with our own hands.

It is necessary to install water pipes from the drawing up of communication laying diagrams. The photo should indicate and indicate all the components of the structure: the dimensions of the elements, the location of the fittings, the lines of the system. In practice, most plumbing fixtures are connected to one riser, but if the room is large, it is better to connect to several points.

When the question arises of installing a sewer system, you can start from the photo of the previous wiring diagram in the building. It is worth considering that if a cast-iron pipe is replaced with a plastic one, then it is impossible to focus on the old system.

Attention! With a large number of storeys of the building, it is rational to place the plumbing units one under the other.

When performing repair work, it is enough to make a schematic drawing of the adjustable system. But, if sewage installation is being carried out, then it is impossible to do without drawing up a project. This norm is necessary due to the existence of an internal and external design of the drainage system. Plus, most cases also involve the installation of a cleaning device.

Work materials

For such types of work, the requirements of SNiP provide for the installation of the following types of pipes:

• cast iron;
• ceramic;
• Asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• Plastic.

Most often, polyethylene materials are used, which correspond to GOST 22689.0-89 and 22689.2-89, and have a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. A feature of plastic pipes is resistance to aggressive environmental influences and corrosion. Such devices are connected using sockets, and rubber cuffs are used for sealing.

Basic rules of the installation process

Before proceeding with the installation work on the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for the process. This is necessary to create an optimal drainage system in the house. For this reason, it is very important to do everything correctly and accurately.

Sizes of diameters and slopes of pipes

Since most situations involve the creation of a system with gravity, it becomes very important to choose the diameter and slope of the pipes correctly. The functioning of the sewer will depend on this process. The size of the pipe dimensions is affected by the type of plumbing fixtures, as well as their number in the building. Generally speaking, the main factor is the photo installation diagram. So here are some recommendations:

• It is better to insert a pipe diameter into the washbasin system - 4 cm;
• For bathroom and kitchen - 5 cm;
• For a riser that does not have a connection to the toilet - 8.5 cm;
• For a riser with a connected toilet - 10 cm

Attention! The pipe must be directed to the riser from the apparatus. It is worth noting that its dimensions should be 2-15 cm per meter.

Dismantling the old wiring

Before mounting a new system, you need to remove the elements of the old layout. It is worth noting that this process can be quite a difficult job, especially for old-timers' houses. In order to speed up and facilitate the procedure, it is necessary to think about dismantling in advance.

Required Tools

To install the sewer with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Special grinder or hacksaw;
• Drill apparatus;
• Screwdriver.

It is right to start all work from the bathroom and the most distant places of pipelines. Before starting the process, it is necessary to check whether all the necessary materials and tools are available. In addition, we advise you to perform pipe diagnostics to determine if there are any deformations and damages on them.

Preparatory stages of installation

Preparation for installation includes the following steps:

• We check and adjust all connection points. We mark on the pipes the depths of the occurrences of the sockets.
• Next, the chasing and cutting of pipes is performed;

Attention! The caulking of the pipeline occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. It should be noted that the cut should not have deformations or distortions.

• The points of cut pipes should be correctly checked for burrs, as their presence on the part will affect the sealing of the joints and lead to the accumulation of debris and blockages. You need to fix this situation with a file.
• Before assembling the system, it is necessary to clean the extreme parts of the pipes and the rubber seals. Failure to comply with this norm will reduce the quality of the connection.

If you focus on the standard photo, the sewerage scheme in the premises, then it provides that the pipe wiring is carried out along three lines of the system:

• The device of the first highway is the line with the shortest length, which should not exceed 1 meter. In this branch, it is necessary to mint a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures in the house.
• The second line includes bathroom appliances and equipment, namely a washbasin, shower, washing machine.
• The third branch is the drainage line from the kitchen.

Attention! The length of the second and third branches should be less than three meters. For this reason, if the building has a large volume, then it is necessary to insert the lines into at least two risers.

The main sewer lines have several branches that go to each type of plumbing. Each line at the end provides for the installation of a siphon. A water lock is a necessary element of any system that forms a cork from the water, which prevents gases from escaping from the sewer. In most cases, such an apparatus does not exist in the installation of a washing machine, since its system has a check valve.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Sometimes there are situations when there is a need to perform repairs for a separate part of the sewer system. It should be noted that the process does not always occur without disconnection of the pipeline. To start minting pipes, you need to inspect the place of future work.

The main problem is that the pipes that are in the ground are filled with a special substance, which strengthens the fastening. Therefore, the question arises, how is the chasing of cast-iron pipelines performed? This is what we are now trying to find out. It is enough to simply destroy the connection using a gas cutter.

Pipe chasing technology

Difficulty can also arise when chasing cast-iron or plastic pipes, which occurs when replacing a riser or toilet bowl. For the correctness of the action, you need to very carefully mint the pipe pipe. This action includes several steps:

• The first thing we need to do is to tap the bell with a hammer so as not to damage it;
• If the bell moves quietly and can be easily dismantled, which means that the caulking was carried out with a cable.
• Then you can start dismantling - loosen the bell, pry with a screwdriver and pull the cord a little. Then gently pull out the rope with pliers.

If the bell is motionless when tapped, this means that the chasing was done with sulfur. In this situation, you need to use the burning technology:

• Carefully perform heating of the pipeline around the circumference with a burner or blowtorch;
• Avoiding damage, carefully tap the pipeline with a hammer;
• When the bell is movable, you can loosen it with an adjustable tool.

Attention! When performing work, it is necessary to use a respirator to avoid inhalation of sulfur.

• After releasing the bell, we clean it with a chisel;
• We cover the sealing ring with a special solution, and insert it into the socket;
• We mount a new part in the seal.

Installation of plastic sewer pipes

Installing plastic sewer pipes is a little different from other types. For this reason, we provide some tips on how to mint them:

• There are two ways to cut a plastic pipe. It is worth noting that the saw for such work should have small teeth. Also, this task can be performed using a two-handed cable.
• Do not leave burrs, which very often appear when cutting plastic products.
• We carry out cleaning and gluing of materials. First, you need to perform a dry assembly, and then you can start gluing the system. To do this, we make marks, and then we connect the structural elements with glue.
• We assemble the sewerage pipeline system.
• We fill in all the empty spaces.
• We install a plastic pipe for ventilation. The connection must be made with copper material.
• Plastic pipes are used for connections of high complexity. The strength of the tightness of the structure is provided by couplings without a socket.
• We strengthen the risers. To do this, use metal lining - this element will protect against accidental hits of small parts, such as nails or screws.

So, we found out that installing a sewer is quite simple. The article presents two options for completing the process - a design with cast iron and plastic pipes. The main requirement for installation is compliance with the rules and regulations that are regulated by SNiP and Gost RF. So, study the legislative base and construction and sanitary conditions, and then you will be able to install a drainage system in your own house or apartment correctly.

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need an additional outlet or an existing outlet has become unusable. How to proceed?

hammered pipe before starting work

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss the cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

warming up the pipe before caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin dismantling the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and hence sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is located in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit it several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

Correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it is better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a rammed rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it out all the way, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of minting in Soviet times was pouring sulfur compounds into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you will have to use the only effective method - heating. Be sure to remember a simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if you have a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the bell, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

Cast iron pipes are used when laying internal and external sewerage, and sockets are necessary to connect its individual parts. Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes is a complex and time-consuming process. Find out how such pipes are joined, and what tools and materials are used.

Installation of an additional compactor by a team of repairmen

Chasing and chasing cast iron pipes

Cast iron is the most durable and most brittle pipe material. That is why the connection of this material must be strong and elastic.

The joint of cast-iron pipes, made by caulking

Freezing, groundwater expands, resulting in a displacement of the soil. As a result, pipes laid underground also move. In order for the joints to remain airtight under any conditions, a “margin of elasticity” is left at the joints. Pipes of external lines are damaged by water hammer and heavy traffic.

Sequence of work

First, the pipe joint is inspected to determine how they were connected. A gas cutter or a grinder will help to separate tightly fused pipes. Before starting work, turn off the water supply throughout the house.

The procedure is performed as carefully as possible, cast iron is easily damaged. First, the bell is lightly tapped with a hammer so that you do not have to change the entire riser. Then they loosen it in different directions, wrap it with a rope and pull it. After slowly pulling out the pipe element. You can also make an incision with a grinder at the bell itself. The rest of the pipe is drilled with a drill.

The end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. At the junction, a gap is left (no more than 5 mm), which is filled with a special strand - a cable. This strand is made of a thin rope, the gap between the pipes is filled in layers. Each layer is sealed with a caulk. So you can create a tight and elastic connection.

In order for the connection to withstand high loads, 1/3 of the gap is filled with lead or cement. The first option is more reliable, but requires experience and skill. The second option is difficult to implement at high or low humidity.

There are also more technologically advanced ways of connecting cast iron pipes: bell-shaped with a rubber seal and bell-screw.

Lead casting

Repairmen use white or red clay, rope (20 cm longer than the pipe diameter and 15 mm thick), lead.

• A rope is wrapped around the pipe, then pulled tight. The bell is coated with clay.
• The rope is pulled out, a clay funnel is made at the top (a sprue 10 cm high), through which molten lead is poured.
• Lead is melted in an iron cauldron over a fire. The metal must be heated well enough, otherwise it will harden ahead of time and will not fill the socket.
• When pouring lead, safety regulations must be observed. To avoid splashing, pieces of stearin are thrown into the mold.
• After hardening, the clay mold is removed, the lead bay is inspected. It should fill the socket without cavities and gaps.

Sealing with cement (asbestos-cement) mortar

• First, a resin bundle is installed in the hole between the pipe and the socket, then it is compacted.
• Cement and water are mixed in a ratio of 9:1. The gap between the socket and the pipe is filled with the prepared solution.
• Sometimes the winding seal is coated with asbestos cement in several layers.

First, the joint is sealed, then the strands are compacted, at the end the joint is poured with asbestos-cement mortar

The hardening of the solution may interfere with high humidity.

Video: chasing a fun tee

Additional compactor - an alternative to embossing

A tool for chasing

Chasing is short-lived, there are several reasons for this: temperature changes, high humidity, soil shifts. But there is an additional seal - fittings, which can reduce the duration of pipe repair, prevent leakage and improve the quality of the connection. The design of the device is simple: two openable rings are completed with a rubber gasket, bolts and nuts for the coupler. The element is installed on the socket, and then fixed with a wrench. Work can be done without blocking the pressure, but only by reducing it.

• The size of the clamp must match the diameter of the pipe.
• Before installation, clean the surface of the pipe near the socket.
• Mount the gasket with the flat side to the socket. The ends of the seal are connected.
• Close the clamp around the pipe, install the studs, tighten the nuts.

It is necessary to install an additional seal on water and sewer lines. For enhanced protection, an anti-corrosion epoxy coating is used.

Video: installation of a socket sealer

The tightness of the joints is important in both internal and external communications. Sealing materials are durable polyethylene tapes, liquid rubber (silicone sealing rings). To switch from cast iron to plastic, a rubber adapter lubricated with silicone sealant is used.

Breaks in the line, caused by the destruction of the pipe at the junction, are eliminated for a long time, and the result of the work is not always of high quality. Making a tight connection in a hard-to-reach place is always a difficult and painstaking job. Planned preventive measures will help to avoid emergencies and save money.