Order for laying cinder block. Rules for building walls from cinder blocks

cinder block masonry- a good solution for many construction works due to its comparative simplicity and low cost. Cinder block outperforms brick in cost, as well as in masonry speed, thanks to four times the size, despite the fact that work with both materials is carried out in a similar way.

To begin with, we will briefly describe what a cinder block is. Cinder block is an artificial building material in the form of a brick with dimensions of 400x200x200, made from cement and filler. Despite the name, the filler is not necessarily slag - crushed stone, sand, gravel, and other materials can be used as it.

When building walls cinder blocks are laid on a prefabricated foundation. The procedure here is quite simple:

lay out a solution on the foundation;
he is leveled;
put a cinder block(keep it in the middle with your left hand);
align with a stretched cord, tapping the cinder block with a trowel;
excess mortar is removed from the cracks with a trowel;
align the finished row, similar to the alignment of individual blocks in a manner;
starting the next row from the corner to move it, put half of the cinder block(stone can be cut with a hacksaw or a circular saw).

The thickness of the seams should not exceed 1.5 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation of the masonry will be broken.

For cinder block masonry a mortar based on sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1 is used. When adding water, the mixture should be thoroughly mixed.

It is preferable to use cement grades M-400 or M-500. Any sand will do. To prevent the solution from spreading, a plasticizer must be added to it; red clay or any detergent can be used as it.

Remember: the finished solution should be used within 1-1.5 hours, so you should not cook it a lot - keep in mind the volume and speed of work.

Approximate cost of laying cinder block.

The cost of cinder block buildings is usually low. The price of one block fluctuates between 25-45 rubles, depending on the quality and the seller. The best option is to buy cinder blocks from the manufacturer directly, especially since many of them have free shipping.

Construction crews put up on average price for laying cinder blocks 20 rubles for one unit. The choice of brigades is very large, making it, one should proceed from their prices and examples of work performed.

If you still decide do the masonry with your own hands, in addition to knowing the general technology of the process, you will also need to study a lot of nuances.

When making a roof, you need to pay special attention to fixing it - otherwise, the first gust of wind will leave you without it. For this, a Mauerlat is needed - a wooden beam laid along the perimeter of the walls to evenly distribute the load from the roof.

To attach the Mauerlat to cinder blocks, first a monolithic reinforced concrete screed is made. Having fixed wooden formwork on the walls, concrete is poured and, before it sets, metal studs are inserted.

The Mauerlat itself is laid no earlier than three days after that. Having previously laid a roofing material around the perimeter of the roof, the bars are drilled and fastened to the wall with stud washers and nuts.

Cinder block corners.

cinder block masonry be sure to start from the corners, fixing rows on the sides to get a regular quadrangle. On the rows, taking into account the thickness of the masonry, marks are placed along which a cord or fishing line is stretched between them, along which the rows are drawn. This stage is the most important moment of construction, since the quality of the entire masonry depends on it.

Reinforcement of cinder block walls.

Reinforcement is used to distribute the load, increase the stability of the walls and reduce the risk of cracks in cinder block masonry.

For reinforcement are used:

reinforcement, the rods of which are placed in the grooves on the mortar layer and covered with mortar from above;
metallic masonry mesh with a cell of 50x50 mm, which is covered with a layer of mortar to avoid rusting;
reinforcing cages made of paired galvanized steel strips connected by wire, laid on a layer of glue or mortar.

The first row of blocks is reinforced in a mandatory order, then every four rows. In the case of wall openings, reinforcement is subject to both sides.

Reliable and beautiful cinder block masonry consists of about 10% theory and 90% practice, but despite this ratio, without 10% theory it is difficult to master practical skills and start applying them at a construction site.

On the image: illustration of the three basic rules for laying blocks (bricks), 1 - the direction of the load force on the wall, 2 - the direction of the destructive forces when laying wedge-shaped stones, 3 - the distribution of the load over the wall surface.

1. Cinder block and any other stone, both natural and artificial, tolerate compression well and do not break or bend well. Hence the first rule of reliable masonry arises - the overlying stone must rest on the underlying masonry with its entire surface. To achieve this, when laying cinder blocks, apply the solution to the entire surface of the underlying block, and not just along the edges.

2. The side faces of the stones should be located only at right angles to the horizon. If you do not follow this rule, then the stones begin to act as wedges, which, under load, push the masonry apart, destroying it.

3. Each next row of blocks should be shifted relative to the bottom one by a quarter or half of the block, that is, the vertical seams of adjacent rows should not be allowed to coincide. If the seams do not match (correct masonry), then the vertical load is distributed throughout the wall, and if the seams match (wrong masonry), then the load is distributed along the post, dramatically increasing the likelihood of failure of part of the wall.

And a few tips: when working in hot or windy weather, it is desirable to moisten the blocks, this increases the adhesion between the mortar and the cinder block; if a break is expected during the laying process, then the solution should not be spread on the top row; every 3 - 4 rows it is necessary to check the horizontality and verticality of the rows.

On the image: cinder block elements: 1 - upper bed, 2 - large side face - spoon, 3 - small side face - poke.

To make it easier to understand which cinder block masonry can be used when building a wall, you need to remember that the block has 6 faces: 2 opposite ones on which the block is laid - the upper and lower beds; large side faces - spoons; small side faces - pokes. Masonry is carried out in horizontal rows and cinder blocks are laid on the bed.

The height of each horizontal row is formed from the height of the stone and the thickness of the horizontal mortar joint, which is usually 10 - 12 mm.

On the image: 1 - laying in half a cinder block, 2 - laying in a cinder block, 3 - one and a half cinder blocks.

The width of the masonry, which is ultimately the thickness of the wall, must be a multiple of 1/2 of the cinder block.

Factors affecting the reliability of a cinder block wall or any other stone

The strength of the masonry is determined by the quality of the cinder block and the properties of the solution. The maximum strength of masonry from blocks is 40 - 50% of the tensile strength of the blocks themselves. This situation is explained as follows: during laying, the mortar lays on the blocks in an uneven layer, microscopic kinks and voids appear, this leads to the formation of different pressure on the cinder block in different parts of the wall, bending stress occurs in the block, and just such a load cinder block does not hold up well.

On the image: stages of destruction of masonry, 1 - the appearance of cracks, 2 - the formation of individual columns, 3 - complete destruction of the wall.

If the wall experiences excessive load, then it is primarily covered with vertical cracks, which are most often located along vertical seams. Over time, the cracks expand and the monolithic wall turns into a set of columns that can move out of the plane of the wall and, as a result, the masonry collapses.

The reliability of the masonry largely depends on the quality of the solution, such an indicator as the plasticity of the solution is especially important. The plastic solution evenly lays down on the stone, as a result, the bending stress decreases and the reliability of the wall increases.

When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, taking into account the quality of sand and cement, do not prepare for future use.

The strength of the masonry also depends on the thickness of the seam, the thicker the mortar layer, the harder it is to evenly place it on the cinder block and the likelihood of fracture stress increases. For this reason, each type of masonry is made with a certain thickness of the seam (for a cinder block, this is about 1 cm), and it will not work to increase this thickness without the risk of reducing the strength of the structure.

Cinder block masonry tools

On the image: tools necessary for laying a stone wall, 1 - trowel (trowel), 2 - mortar shovel, 3 - jointing for convex and concave joints, 4 - pickaxe, 5 - plumb, 6 - square, 7 - building level, 8 - tape measure , 9 - level, 10 - folding rule, 11 - duralumin rule, 12 - ordering.

1. A trowel is a steel shovel with a wooden handle, with which the mortar is leveled, the seams are filled, and the excess mortar is cut.

2. The mortar shovel is designed to mix the mortar, preventing it from delamination, to feed it onto the wall and spread it out.

3. Joints with which the seams can be given a convex, concave, triangular, rectangular recessed shape.

4. A pickaxe is used when cutting and hewing bricks or blocks.

5. A plumb line, with its help, the bricklayer controls the verticality of the wall, walls, corners, and so on. This tool, depending on whether the verticality of the masonry is checked within one or several floors, has a different weight. For the first case, it is 200 - 400 g, for the second 600 - 1000 g.

6. The square is for checking angles.

7. Building level, which is designed to control the horizontal and vertical plane. Can be 300, 500 and 700 mm long. Structurally, it is an aluminum case with two glass ampoules filled with non-freezing liquid, in which an air bubble remains. The principle of operation of the device is simple: put it on the surface of the wall and look at the position of the bubble. If it froze in the middle between the divisions of the ampoule, then the surface is horizontal, if it is shifted in any direction, then there is a deviation.

8. Tape measure and folding rule are designed to measure short distances.

9. Rules-level - this tool is made of planed wooden (section 30 × 80 mm, length 1.5 - 2 meters) or duralumin rail with a special profile. With its help, the front surface of the laid out wall is controlled.

10. Ordering - is a wooden lath (section 50 × 50 or 70 × 50, length 1.8 - 2 meters) with divisions every 77 mm, which is equal to the thickness of one row with a solution (65 mm + 12 mm). Ordering can also be made from a metal corner, on the edges of which divisions are cut with a depth of 3 mm and with a step of 77 mm.

The sequence of work in the construction of walls from cinder blocks

On the image: 1 - laying the outer spoon verst, 2 - the inner spoon verst, 3 - tying row.

One of the first questions that arises before the start of the construction of walls is how thick should they be made? The most correct answer to this question is to get in the project documentation, but many people build houses without projects, in which case you can rely on these numbers. During the construction of a 1-storey building and at an air temperature in winter of - 20 C, the wall thickness is 350 - 400 mm; temperature - 30 C thickness 450 - 500 mm; temperature - 40 C thickness 550 - 650 mm.

Cinder block laying is carried out by a master and an assistant. The latter stands in front and, moving along the course of laying, delivers blocks to the wall, laying them out in increments equal to the length of the block being laid and at a distance from the wall equal to two stone lengths. With this arrangement, it will be convenient for the master to spread the solution and lay the blocks on the wall. The duties of the assistant also include the supply of the solution.

Cinder block is a "fast" building material that speeds up the work of a bricklayer.

The master lays the solution with a shovel on the upper surface of the wall, the width of the strip is several centimeters narrower than the width of the block. The cinder block is laid on a fresh mortar and pressed close to the laid block, after which it is settled with both hands and, if necessary, with a hammer. The protruding solution is cut off with a trowel and vertical seams are filled. If the cinder block does not have a recess on the bonding surface, then a solution must be applied to this face before laying the block on the wall.

Additional articles with useful information

Whether or not to use cinder block as the main building material when building a house can be determined only after taking into account the positive and negative sides of this artificial stone.

Many developers can be helped out by frame walls, especially if their features are taken into account during construction and operation, since they can be built without special equipment and they are much cheaper.

Do-it-yourself cinder block masonry is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials. At the same time, it has excellent technical characteristics and allows you to build not only buildings for household purposes, but also full-fledged residential buildings. The installation of a cinder block is not particularly difficult, so all the work can be done without the involvement of a construction team, which allows you to increase your professionalism and save a considerable amount.

Types of cinder block

Cinder blocks got their name due to the filler, which was previously used in the process of their production: slag, ash and other combustion products of solid fuels. However, such blocks were characterized by high moisture absorption and insufficient strength. Therefore, today fine-grained crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick, sawdust, etc. are used as fillers.

The entire cinder block available on the domestic market can be conditionally divided into three types:

full-bodied - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for laying walls;
semi-block - used for the design of interior partitions.

Each type has a certain voidness, the value of which determines the main characteristics of the product (strength and thermal conductivity). It is on voidness that one must first of all be guided when choosing blocks for (Fig. 1).

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of the cinder block walls? It all depends on the purpose of the building being erected and the climatic zone in which it was built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

The laying of cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be carried out according to the following schemes:

in ½ block;
in 1 block;
in 1.5 blocks;
in 2 blocks.

Considering how to properly lay the cinder block, you need to know that with an increase in the thickness of the walls, their thermal conductivity decreases, that is, the house becomes warmer and more comfortable. At the same time, excessive thickness leads to additional financial waste and an increase in the load on the foundation. For the construction of a one-story house, the recommended thickness of cinder block walls is 380 mm (masonry in 1 block).

Preparatory work

Before laying the cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

circular saw;
electric drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
building level;
plumb;
trowel;
a hammer;
container for masonry mixture;
cord;
cement, sand;
steel bars or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with the creation of a reliable foundation. Its type depends on the condition of the soil in the summer cottage and the depth of groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

For stable soils with deep groundwater, a strip base is well suited, which can be made independently, without the use of special construction equipment and expensive equipment. Its width should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the future walls. To fill the foundation, a solution of cement, sand and gravel is prepared in a ratio of 1: 2: 4.

Strip base scheme

After complete hardening of the mounting mixture, a waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete base to protect the blocks from moisture. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use roofing material.

Cinder block walls are laid on cement mortar, which can be purchased at any hardware store or do it yourself. Ready-made dry mixes are relatively expensive, so many choose the second option. Masonry mortar is prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. To give the mixture plasticity and increase its frost resistance, a plasticizer is added to it. The finished masonry mass should be viscous and spread slightly under the weight of the cinder block.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying

Masonry of brick, cinder block or any other building material starts from the corners of the future house. In this case, you need to be very careful, since the evenness and reliability of all walls will depend on the correct setting of the corners. First, a little mortar is applied to the corners of the foundation and leveled with a trowel. Then two blocks are placed on top of it at a right angle, after which another block is mounted on them, observing the dressing of the seams.

In the same way, the rest of the corners of the house are kicked out. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and a plumb line.

If any element does not fit into the overall picture, it is corrected by slightly tapping with a trowel. Nails are hammered into the resulting seam between the upper and lower block and a cord is pulled, which will be a guideline when laying the first row. After the installation of the first row along the entire perimeter of the foundation, they begin laying the second row and so on.

Mounting joints in the walls are cold bridges through which heat escapes from the house, so their width should be minimal. For cinder blocks, the recommended joint width is about 10-15 mm. At smaller sizes, the masonry will have low strength.

To evenly distribute the load along the entire perimeter of the walls and increase the reliability of the masonry, its reinforcement is performed. For this, metal rods are used, which are mounted in the grooves of the blocks, or a reinforcing mesh. The first row of blocks is necessarily reinforced, after which this procedure is performed every 3-4 rows.

Properly erected cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort to the house.

Cinder blocks are one of the relevant building materials. They are popular because of the affordable price, ease of laying and good technical characteristics. You can build walls from it with your own hands without the help of professional craftsmen. But before that, you definitely need to study the masonry technology, learn about its pitfalls.

Features of the choice of cinder block and the construction of walls

The cinder block is made from cement, sand, water and fillers: blast-furnace slag, perlite, expanded clay chips, etc. The strength, frost resistance, and porosity of the material depend on the composition and quantity of the latter. Before buying, you need to clarify the availability of a quality certificate in order to exclude the presence of a dangerous concentration of toxic substances. It is risky to purchase products created in artisanal conditions, although they cost a little less than factory ones. But without professional equipment and knowledge of the correct production technology, it is impossible to create a product that meets the technical characteristics of GOST.

Algorithm for laying cinder blocks

In addition to the positive properties, the cinder block has some negative features. First of all, you need to remember about its high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) and protect it from moisture. In addition, the blocks will not be able to withstand a very heavy load with reinforced concrete floors, in which case a monolithic reinforced belt is required. But laying them with your own hands without outside help or hired workers is quite realistic.

After applying a leveling cement layer to the foundation, it must be well protected from water using a waterproofing material, for example, roofing material. Its ends are connected with an overlap of not less than 150 mm.

Foreman's advice: wall measurements must exactly match the data in the project. The accuracy of laying the cinder block in the first row affects the level of the entire wall.

The construction of walls is done as follows:

The first step is laying the corners. The blocks in the first row are placed on a cement mortar with a plasticizing additive 10-15 mm thick. It is applied to the entire surface of the product. If it is vertical, then the upward movement of the trowel should be carried out without leaving the block. The level of the product is controlled using a level, and the position is controlled using a building level. depending on the size and structure (monolithic, hollow) ranges from 10 to 28 kg.
A cord is pulled between the corner blocks, and the construction of walls begins. If the distance between them exceeds 10 m in the center of the row, you need to place an additional block and fix the cord on it so that it does not sag.
After laying the first row, you need to wait 1-2 hours and only after that start working further. The next rows of outer corners are laid with obligatory dressing (depth not less than 10 cm). It is also used to connect load-bearing internal walls with external ones. It is not necessary to fill the cavity of the product with a solution during the laying of cinder block, this will only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.
After each 3-4 rows, reinforcement is necessarily carried out. To do this, use iron rods, mesh. All stages of masonry can be done by hand.
In places where there will be a partition, a flexible connection-anchor made of steel is inserted into the seam. One end is mounted in a load-bearing wall, and the other - in the seam of the partition. They need to be fixed on every second row of the load-bearing wall.

Foreman's advice: cinder block walls are laid in half a stone (spoon method) or in one stone (poke), two or one and a half using the brickwork technique.

Many at the stage of choosing building materials for the house doubt which is better: Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, they have different prices, different specifications. You need to focus on the type and purpose of the room, the requirements for it, the design of the walls.

The inner surface of the walls must be qualitatively waterproofed with vapor-tight plaster, insulated (with foil, polystyrene foam), and then install drywall, glue wallpaper, paint, etc. Facing bricks, plaster with subsequent painting, siding are suitable for exterior decoration. The air gap must be filled with insulation: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

The strength of masonry with your own hands depends not only on compliance with its technology, but also on the technical characteristics of the cinder block, the quality of the solution. If you follow all the rules, a cinder block house will serve the owner for many years.

Video

Features of the choice of cinder block and the construction of walls

Algorithm for laying cinder blocks

The construction of walls is done as follows:

The first step is laying the corners. The blocks in the first row are placed on a cement mortar with a plasticizing additive 10-15 mm thick. It is applied to the entire surface of the product. If it is vertical, then the upward movement of the trowel should be carried out without leaving the block. The level of the product is controlled using a level, and the position is controlled using a building level. The weight of the cinder block, depending on the size and structure (monolithic, hollow), ranges from 10 to 28 kg.
A cord is pulled between the corner blocks, and the construction of walls begins. If the distance between them exceeds 10 m in the center of the row, you need to place an additional block and fix the cord on it so that it does not sag.
After laying the first row, you need to wait 1-2 hours and only after that start working further. The next rows of outer corners are laid with obligatory dressing (depth not less than 10 cm). It is also used to connect load-bearing internal walls with external ones. It is not necessary to fill the cavity of the product with a solution during the laying of cinder block, this will only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.
After each 3-4 rows, reinforcement is necessarily carried out. To do this, use iron rods, mesh. All stages of masonry can be done by hand.
In places where there will be a partition, a flexible connection-anchor made of steel is inserted into the seam. One end is mounted in a load-bearing wall, and the other - in the seam of the partition. They need to be fixed on every second row of the load-bearing wall.

Many at the stage of choosing building materials for the house doubt which is better: foam blocks or cinder blocks? Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, they have different prices, different specifications. You need to focus on the type and purpose of the room, the requirements for it, the design of the walls.

Cinder block laying: how to properly lay a cinder block (video)

Laying cinder blocks can be done with your own hands without the help of craftsmen. Compliance with technology, the right finish will create strong walls and keep the heat in the room

How to lay cinder blocks yourself - step by step instructions

Cinder block as a building material is gaining more and more popularity. This is due to several factors. First of all, cheapness, which can be further reduced by making blocks on your own. The second reason for popularity is that cinder block masonry can be done by hand.

Cinder block is an artificial stone based on pressed cemented cinder concrete. As a filler, slag, crushed granite, granite screenings, gravel, broken glass, sand, dried pieces of cement are used. Cinder block dimensions according to standards: 400x200x200 or 390x190x190. In the second case, 10 mm is left on the mortar joint.

The cinder block is of two types:

corpulent is used for laying the foundation, basement, load-bearing structures;
hollow acts as a building material with which walls and partitions can be laid out.

The properties of the block depend on the block type. The higher the hollowness, the lower the thermal conductivity, which means that the heat of the premises will be preserved. However, the strength of the material decreases as a result. The masonry scheme practically does not change.

What should be considered before starting work?

If masonry is done by hand, then the cost of construction can be significantly reduced. It is enough to pick up high-quality cinder blocks and learn how to properly carry out masonry.

1. Choice of laying method.

The laying pattern is influenced by the cinder block used, which depends on the type of material and the nature of the future building. You can put blocks in one, one and a half, two and half a stone (spoon method). It is worth considering the fact that the thicker the wall is laid out, the warmer the building will be.

2. Preparation of mortar for masonry.

The manufacturing technology is the same, but the proportions depend on the nature of the future building. Now in stores you can buy ready-made mixtures, in which it is enough to add a certain amount of water. However, this will significantly increase the cost of masonry. Therefore, usually the solution is prepared independently. The standard proportions are as follows:

The amount of water is adjusted for each specific case. The result should be a viscous non-spreading solution. If so, then you did everything right. At the end of cooking, it is necessary to add a plasticizer, which is used to increase frost resistance and increase density. A composition is considered qualitative if it has the following parameters:

adhesion;
plastic;
homogeneity;
frost resistance;
self-sealing;
strength;
waterproof.

The main rule is that the solution must withstand the upcoming loads of the building. If the technology for manufacturing blocks is strictly observed, then the product will eventually turn out to be of high quality.

3. Prepare the necessary tools.

If you do not know where to start laying the cinder block, start it by choosing the necessary tools. You will need:

A manual circular saw can be replaced with a hacksaw, since the cinder block is sawn quite easily.
Respirator. Do not neglect safety measures and still use the indicated device during the sawing process (it cannot be avoided). And the price should not be the reason for not buying.
Construction level, laser or bubble, your choice. You must be absolutely sure of the quality, so it is recommended to check it.
Hammer or mallet.
Trowel, which will be made independently, which will further reduce the cost of construction.
Plumb. Its role is played by any weight on a fishing line or cord.
Order. This tool is usually made of wood and is a river with a cross section (50x50 or 70x50 mm), length - about two meters. The goal is to mark the rows of masonry, fix the marks of the top and bottom of the openings.

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can begin to lay the cinder block directly.

Step by step laying instructions

1. The beginning of laying the cinder block is the pouring of the foundation, the width of which should slightly exceed the width of the blocks. The surface should be perfectly flat, without flaws in the form of bulges and pits.

2. Setting corners. For this purpose, rows are used, which are attached to each corner. It is necessary to select a tool taking into account the thickness of the blocks, as well as the thickness of the two seams. Between the row marks of each row, a thread or cord is pulled, which indicates the level of the row.

3. Directly masonry cinder block. The first layer is the most important, so this process is given special attention. First you need to spread the adhesive mixture in an even layer with a trowel, on which you want to put a cinder block. After 3 blocks are laid, the installation must be checked by level and plumb. Then repeat this procedure as often as possible, this is required by the instructions. This will avoid re-laying, which means that the price for the work will be lower. The next layers are laid in a similar way with level control. The thickness of the seam is not recommended to be more than 1.5 cm. The cracks are also filled with a cement composition. If a hollow cinder block is being laid, then in no case should the voids inside the blocks be filled with mortar, as this will lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.

4. Completion of the work consists in facing the wall or its “jointing” (on the cement between the blocks from the outside, draw an oblique cut with a cut hollow pipe).

If the wall will not be faced, then soot can be added to the cement mortar. This will decorate the building, but you need to show it carefully and not stain the blocks.

Other Builder Tips

There are little tricks that will help make your job a little easier, since laying walls with your own hands can be difficult for an inexperienced builder.

1. Specialists, as a rule, lay the cinder block without using any additional devices. If you are doing this for the first time on your own, then you can use a template, the size of which depends on the dimensions of the blocks (it will be possible to make it yourself).

2. Red clay is used as a plasticizer, the more it is affordable.

3. You also need to take care in advance of making a special platform, which will be needed in order to be able to lay out the top layers. A stepladder is not suitable for this purpose, because you can’t take a bucket with you, and you constantly need to move it, and it’s easy to fall.

4. It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the seam. It should be no more than 1.5 cm, otherwise the heat will leave the building outside.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: step-by-step instructions, tools, tips

How to independently prepare a high-quality mortar for laying blocks? Useful tips for inexperienced builders.

Cinder block: do-it-yourself laying

Technical characteristics of the cinder block

The entire cinder block available on the domestic market can be conditionally divided into three types:

full-bodied - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for laying walls;
semi-block - used for the design of interior partitions.

Each type has a certain voidness, the value of which determines the main characteristics of the product (strength and thermal conductivity). It is on voidness that you need to focus first of all when choosing blocks for building walls (Fig. 1).

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of the cinder block walls? It all depends on the purpose of the building being erected and the climatic zone in which it was built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

The laying of cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be carried out according to the following schemes:

Preparatory work

Before laying the cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

circular saw;
electric drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
building level;
plumb;
trowel;
a hammer;
container for masonry mixture;
cord;
cement, sand;
steel bars or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with the creation of a reliable foundation. Its type depends on the condition of the soil in the summer cottage and the depth of groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

Strip base scheme

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying

In the same way, the rest of the corners of the house are kicked out. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and a plumb line.

Properly erected cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort to the house.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: instructions

Do-it-yourself cinder block masonry is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials.

Master class on the correct laying of cinder block

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, an outbuilding or a fence.

For the construction of residential buildings, this material is no longer used, it was replaced by foam and gas blocks.

The main advantages of cinder block:

the composition includes ordinary sand and cement, as well as gypsum, lime and slag;
excellent strength, exemplary resistance to moisture and mechanical stress;
lightweight and easy to use;
low cost.

The only negative is the low thermal conductivity. In cold weather, a house made of cinder blocks quickly loses heat through the walls. However, the demand for this building material is not falling.

This disadvantage helps to eliminate a huge selection of heaters. So after consulting how to properly lay the cinder block, get down to business without any hesitation.

Hiring a construction team is not worth it; there is nothing super complicated in laying a cinder block with your own hands.

First prepare your tools:

hacksaw or circular saw;
building level;
cord or fishing line;
a hammer;
water level;
trowel;
ordering.

Preliminary work

The foundation on which the laying is carried out should be slightly wider than the width of the cinder block (at least 4 cm).

The platform for construction is made with waterproofing, since the components of the cinder block - lime and sand, cannot stand contact with water.

The foundation, in order to prevent the curvature of the future building, cannot be uneven.

Before starting DIY work, find scaffolding to stand on. They will come in handy if the calculated masonry height is more than the level of your chest.

Reaching for masonry in your hands with a cinder block will be a fair amount of torment, because you need to consider how much this material weighs. It is larger and heavier than a brick.

A simple ladder will not help in this case, there is no place on it to put a bucket of mortar.

Equally important is the consistency of the solution.

The correct solution is plastic, but not spreading, thick, like sour cream.

According to the rules, the mortar for laying the cinder block is prepared from the same amount of sand and cement and one third of red clay. The components are thoroughly mixed with the addition of water.

How much and in what proportions to mix these 4 components is described in detail in the video.

You can prepare cinder blocks with your own hands. Between themselves connect 2 boards two meters long with transverse boards.

The edge boards are fastened with the longitudinal ones. With the help of a chisel, a cut of 14 centimeters is formed in the longitudinal boards.

Then cells are cut out in the prepared material, which then need to be painted with oil paint. After the done actions, a mixture of concrete and ash is poured there.

Then holes are cut out in the prepared material and painted with oil paint. There must certainly be voids in the cinder block to provide additional heat.

When the solution in the mold hardens, you can tap it with a hammer and pull out the finished block. It is recommended to wait a day, and only then do the styling.

Corners and front row

The first blocks are laid in the corners of the building. This must be approached conscientiously and diligently: how straight the masonry will be in the corners, how even it will be on the walls.

Therefore, it is necessary to actively use the ordering (rectangular corner), checking each step.

On the foundation on both sides of the corner with a steel spatula (trowel), a solution is smeared with an even layer, on which two cinder blocks are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. Their upper side is again covered with a solution.

At this stage of laying, the uniformity of the horizontal line is checked with a level, and the vertical line is checked with a plumb line.

If there is distortion, it is easy to fix it with a hammer, gently tapping on the blocks from the desired side. The same method must be used when laying the remaining corners.

Then, a nail is driven into the joints between all the lower and upper blocks in order to pull a thick fishing line on them.

Along this conditional line, they continue to lay the first row of cinder block, not forgetting to use the building level.

If suddenly the last element of the perimeter masonry does not fit into its place due to its larger size, then it can be reduced with an ordinary hacksaw. Cinder blocks are sawn without problems.

You only need to adjust the size of the block with a saw in a respirator and goggles - a lot of dust and grains of slag fly during sawing.

Second and subsequent rows

A solution is poured onto all the seams of the masonry, removing the excess with a spatula. Then lay the laying of other rows. The cinder block is not laid on the principle of brickwork, erecting one wall and then another.

It is laid, passing along the perimeter of the building.

A new row also begins to be laid from the corner. A second cinder block is placed on the block in the bottom row, and a third is placed on it, closing the seams. The entire second row has cinder blocks following the example of the first.

At the same time, the correct laying in a horizontal and vertical position is periodically checked.

The cut parts should be in the masonry as far apart as possible, for example, in opposite corners.

The laying condition of the two starting rows is very important. Therefore, it is not worth starting construction in a hurry. Subsequently, the progress of construction will accelerate.

If you have practical baggage behind you, then you can check the horizontals after 3-6 blocks, the verticals - after 4 completed rows.

The edges between the cinder blocks must be maintained in the amount of one or one and a half cm. If you make the seams very narrow, then the masonry will be less reliable, huge seams will lead to heat leakage from the house.

It is not advised to apply the solution to the voids inside the blocks.

The opinion that this will add strength is erroneous. Rather, this will violate the thermal insulation properties of the wall and increase the consumption of mortar components.

Styling technologies

Cinder block laying is usually done in one of two ways.

Method number 1 - spoon, that is, half a stone. It occurs most often.

Method number 2 - tychkovy, otherwise, in one stone. The technology of laying in 2 or one and a half stones is possible only when building houses for permanent residence, where the walls are 75-80 centimeters thick.

This construction technology coincides with the brick laying method.

It makes no sense to cover cinder block walls with plaster, it will not hold, since the material has poor adhesion.

Finishing each wall of a cinder block structure is strongly advised with a decorative stone.

If you are planning to build a cinder block structure, do not lose sight of the fact that the cinder block may contain harmful volatile compounds.

Therefore, you can leave it for a while in an open place or in a ventilated building.

If the laying of the cinder block is done in accordance with all the rules, then taking into account the special nuances, then you will build an impeccable cinder block room with your own hands.

Excess cinder block is usually left on the porch or on the foundation.

It is appropriate to make a cinder block porch if there is a significant difference between the level of the courtyard and the house.

The cinder block foundation is laid only where the soil is dry, for a house with a small load.

Groundwater must pass below the layer of frozen soil.

You also need to consider how many floors there will be in the building. If more than one, it is better to change the decision and build a concrete base.

Do not ignore the fact that the cinder block has pores, which is why it must be well insulated and lined.

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, an outbuilding or a fence. For residential buildings, this material is no longer used.