Shelf on the wall in the bathroom. Shelves, rack or cabinet above the toilet: a profitable solution for space and storage

Efficient use of the internal space of the dwelling is important for owners of apartments with a small area. If you have a shortage of useful volume in the house, pay attention to the empty space behind the toilet above the cistern. It can be used to place containers with chemicals and cleaning accessories.

You can make a closet in the toilet with your own hands by applying our guide. Let's talk about manufacturing methods and waterproof materials that are available on the market. The instructions step by step consider the process of mounting the frame and assembling the doors with expert comments.

Types of cabinets in the toilet

When planning storage for a bathroom, you have the choice between hanging and built-in wardrobes. Both options fit beautifully into the interior, but are made and mounted in different ways.

Hinged is made completely with all walls. The cabinet box is hung on the wall behind the toilet with loops on hooks. Metal eyes are attached to the vertical walls on the back of the case. As hooks, special dowels with curved ends are installed. The best option is to fix the locker to the rail with hook brackets.

The design of the built-in wardrobe compares favorably with the hanging furniture in that the walls and ceiling of the toilet act as the top plate and sidewalls. They are attached to the facade frame with doors and the bottom (if necessary). In addition to swinging canvases, you can install roller shutters.

An example of a built-in closet behind a full-wall toilet

If you have no experience in this matter at all, and the desire to make a closet overwhelms you, ask your neighbors and friends who already have the practice of making and assembling furniture for help.

What to make?

For the manufacture of a cabinet body of small dimensions (a small-sized box will fit in a narrow sanitary cabin), you can use the following materials:

• MDF and chipboard;
• furniture board;
• PVC panels;
• LDVP.

If you are engaged in the independent manufacture of furniture, then you will certainly have pieces of MDF or chipboard in stock. It will be convenient to make a cabinet case out of them. To do this, you can use an old countertop or parts of a disassembled wardrobe.

Furniture panels are all-lamellar (this is when the plate is assembled from planks of the same length) and spliced. Get a shield and open all the details of the case from it.

Expert opinion

Svetlana Kolesnikova

Designer

You can choose a typesetting plate to your liking in Leroy Merlin stores. It sells not only the main material, but also all related accessories.

PVC panels are ideal for high humidity conditions. Bathrooms "suffer" from this shortcoming. Vinyl panels will not cause you any difficulty in cutting parts. Use duralumin corners and screws with nuts to fasten the elements together. From several PVC panels you can assemble lightweight cabinet doors.

You will need laminated fiberboard to make the back of the cabinet. It is fixed around the perimeter of the ends on the back of the case with screws.

Fiberboard (hardboard)

Three options for a closet in the toilet behind the toilet

We offer you three options for arranging a furniture structure in a sanitary cabin. Each option is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions. Of course, to implement any project, you must be able to handle tools.

Manual for the manufacture and installation of a wall cabinet made of MDF

Prepare the space in which you will work. If you have a home workshop, then half the battle is already done. Let's get to work:

1. Prepare the necessary tool:

2. Prepare the following materials:

• MDF sheet;
• end tape;
• sheet HDPE;
• metal tire and toe brackets;
• screws;
• dowels (wooden dowels);
• shelf holders (metal bushings);
• PVA glue;
• jigsaw files;
• dowels;
• confirmations (Euroscrews);
• plastic plugs for euro screws;
• furniture patch loops;
• door handles.

3. Draw a sketch of the future locker on a piece of paper. Separately draw the top and bottom plates, sidewalls, shelves and door panels with dimensions.

Advice. In order not to suffer with the calculations, measure the kitchen wall cabinet. Adjust the height of the side walls, the width of the shelves and other details to the dimensions of the furniture installation site.

4. Make a specification of all parts and fittings. The following table will help you as an example:

Name	Size, mm	Material	Quantity, pcs.
Top plate	628 x 330	MDF	1
Base	628 x 330	— « —	1
sidewalls	1210 x 330	— « —	2
Back wall	1210 x 660	HDPE	1
Shelves	628 x 330	MDF	2
doors	1210 x 330	— « —	2
Dowels	20	Wood	8
Confirmates	50 x 6.4	Metal	8
Overhead hinges		— « —	4
self-tapping screws	4 x 16	— « —	16
Shelf bushings	Ø 5	— « —	8
metal tire	600 x 60	— « —	1
Hook brackets	70 x 50 x 25	Combined	2
Door handles		plastic or metal	2

5. The plan is ready, go to the hardware store for materials and fittings.

6. Cutting parts from MDF is best done on the desktop.

7. Cover the ends of the finished parts with plastic tape using an iron. Iron the end tape applied to the cut sides of the panels through the paper.

8. On the side walls, mark the installation of the shelf-holder bushings. Drill holes with a diameter and depth of 5 mm.

9. Insert the shelf supports by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet until the bushing barbs rest against the panel.

10. Drill holes for dowels at the bottom and top of the sidewalls. Drill the same depressions in the upper and lower plates.

11. Lay the walls and slabs end-to-end on the floor or workbench.

12. Insert wooden dowels into the seats, after filling the holes with PVA glue.

13. Connect the panels into a single box.

14. With a confirmation drill, make holes by drilling the walls and ends of the plates at an equal distance from the edges of the sidewalls (60 - 70 mm).

15. Tightening the euro screws with a knob, pull off all the parts of the case.

16. From the back side in the upper corners, screw the hook brackets.

17. Place the box with the back side up. After checking the equality of the diagonals of the outer corners of the case, screw the back wall with screws.

Remember to install the back panel with the laminated side inside the cabinet. First you need to make cuts for the brackets.

18. In the door leafs, cut with a face mill. It is better to do this in advance - before assembling the case. Insert the canopies into them and fix them with self-tapping screws through the mounting holes. On the sidewalls, screw the overhead parts of the loops. Connect the parts by adjusting the gaps with the set screws.

19. Install furniture handles from below.

20. Using a level, make markings for the tire dowels. Drill two holes with a puncher. Nail the tire with dowels.

21. Hang the cabinet on the wall in such a way that the teeth of the bracket hook into the bar.

22. Fix the cabinet with the adjusting screws of the hooks.

23. Insert the shelves, resting them on the bushings. The closet is ready to be filled.

Expert opinion

Dmitry Laptev

Carpenter with 20 years of experience.

In a building supermarket, you can cut an MDF sheet according to the drawing and stick plastic tape on the ends. This will eliminate annoying blunders when cutting material on your own.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of the built-in wardrobe

Set the initial data:

• Let's take the width of the toilet as 1.2 m, therefore, this length will be at the shelves and the bottom of the cabinet.
• We will consider the height of the bathroom to be 2.5 m. The distance from the lid of the drain tank to the floor will be 730 mm. This means that the height of the cabinet will be 2.5 - 0.7 = 1.8 m. It will be possible to install 4 shelves inside.
• The distance from the tank to the wall will be 400 mm.

Based on these data, we will proceed to the manufacture and installation of built-in furniture in the toilet behind the toilet.

1. On the side walls, make markings for fastening the shelves based on the distance between the shelves of 350 mm.

2. Nail the supporting corners or pieces of timber with dowels. Lay the shelves. They can be cut from MDF, chipboard or old countertops.

If the sewer riser passes through the interior of the cabinet, then make cutouts for the sewer pipe in the shelves and base with a jigsaw.

3. Build a frame from a 50 x 50 mm timber, connecting the frame with self-tapping screws. The height of the racks is 2.1 m. The width of the crossbars is 1.1 m.

4. Screw the mounting metal corners to the side posts and the top bar with screws.

5. Install the frame by nailing the corners to the walls and ceiling with dowels.

6. Fasten the bottom of the cabinet (it can be made of the same material as the shelves) to the horizontal crossbar with screws, and nail the corners that you screwed in advance to the wall with dowels.

7. Hang the doors on single or piano hinges to the vertical bar of the frame. Preliminary for furniture hinges with a chisel, cut out seats on the frame and doors. Fasten the hinges with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

8. Screw on the door handles. The built-in closet is ready.

In some cases, the built-in plumbing cabinet is arranged to the full height of the bathroom. A blank panel is placed behind the tank. The lower shelf is not mounted, creating a lower cabinet compartment for storing various long items.

Instead of swing doors, you can install roller shutters to the entire height of the room. It will be more expensive, but building such a cabinet is much easier:

• after installing the shelves, fix the guide shutters behind the toilet to the side walls with dowels and screws;
• attach a drum with a folded fabric to the ceiling;
• pull the side edges of the roller shutters into the longitudinal grooves of the vertical posts.

An interesting example of mounting a blinds system, see the video:

Hidden closet behind the toilet

If you decide to tile the walls of your bathroom with ceramic tiles, then the best option would be to create a hidden cabinet.

1. Install a pair of timber racks on each side at a distance of 300 - 350 mm between them.
2. Attach plywood sheets to the racks with screws.
3. Install shelves inside the niche.
4. Attach a reinforced mesh made of polymer or metal to the piers. This can be done with a stapler.
5. Staples drive every 40 - 50 mm.
6. Hang plywood sheets on piano hinges.
7. Attach the mesh to the doors too.
8. Overlay all the resulting planes with ceramic tiles on a special glue.
9. Make holes in the lower corners of the doors with a ceramic drill.
10. Screw on the knobs. Choose such models that would be invisible against the general background of the ceramic coating.
11. Screw magnetic holders to the bottom shelf and the back of the doors.

Making a technical cabinet in a hidden form will not disturb the beautiful interior of the bathroom.

doors

Door leaves can be made from any sheet materials. Consider their advantages and disadvantages in the following table:

door material	Advantages	disadvantages
PVC panels	Lightweight material. Cut with a simple hacksaw.	Manufacturing requires the creation of a supporting frame.
MDF and chipboard	Durable plates. Withstand heavy loads. They have a pleasant appearance.	Open ends can be saturated with moisture, which will lead to the destruction of the structure of the panels (the plate will swell).
Glass and mirror	They have high aesthetic qualities.	Fragility. For the design of the toilet is not used.
Plywood	Durable material.	Afraid of moisture. Requires additional moisture protection treatment.
furniture board	Lacquered panels highlight the natural beauty of the wood structure.	Same.
Drywall	GKL sheets are easy to process.	Fragility. Requires pasting with moisture-proof film coatings.

Conclusion

In the article, I offered several options for the manufacture and assembly of cabinets in the toilet room. The basic provisions for the design and calculation of furniture located in the space behind the toilet are given. Weigh your options, let your imagination run wild, view the types of structures of this type. I am sure that you can make such furniture with your own hands that will delight your family and pleasantly surprise your guests. For inspiration, I recommend looking at sample photos in the gallery.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
• the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
• the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

You can hide plumbing communications behind the toilet in a simple way - put a cabinet in the toilet. This building is multifunctional: it closes the pipes and provides a large space for storing household chemicals and other small items needed in the bathroom.

Why do you need a closet behind the toilet: the pros

Due to the design features, the toilet cannot be placed close to the wall; there is always free space behind the plumbing structure. In a separate bathroom, the toilet is a narrow room where there is no space left to install even a small bedside table for storing household items for room care.

The closet behind the toilet makes use of the empty space and provides storage space for stocks of toilet paper or towels, cleaning products and auxiliary tools. A neat construction allows you to decorate the wall, hiding communications behind the doors of a piece of furniture. The advantage of a cabinet over a false wall is the presence of doors that do not restrict access to communications.

Types of structures

Cabinets can be made in a variety of ways. Depending on the device, products are distinguished between open and closed types, niches, special structures, etc.

freestanding models

Homemade furniture for the toilet room can be made in the form of a tiered rack. This design is most often a full-fledged cabinet. The design of a free-standing product allows you to put it behind the toilet bowl and use all the free space above the plumbing fixture. The height of the furniture is calculated according to the convenience of removing items from the shelves; such a cabinet is not made too high.

The facade of a stand-alone rack is designed in the form of open shelves or doors are hung. In one model, you can connect open and closed shelves.

Wall cabinets

Mounted structures include structures of various types, fixed to the wall and not supported by the floor. These models are suspended above the tank. The closet over the toilet can be custom-made or the old kitchen cabinet can be slightly altered if it fits in size. As in the previous case, the facade can be completely closed or a combination of open shelves and doors can be made.

open niches

A niche is a recessed section of a wall. To make a niche or built-in wardrobes in the toilet, the wall does not have to be hollowed out. For the manufacture of such a design, a false wall is made, bringing it to the level of the rear wall of the tank.

With this method of device, the cabinet will look like a niche behind the toilet. Part of the space under the ceiling can also be closed with a panel or make shelves to the top.

Niches covered with a facade

The difference between a closed niche and the previous one is the use of a facade that masks what is behind the false wall. The door in this case is common, one- or two-leaf, closes the whole niche opening. Various materials are used for decoration: blinds, MDF, tiles, etc.

Full height wooden cabinet

In a narrow toilet, it is most convenient to build a shelving structure made of wood, attaching shelves directly to the walls. To fix the doors along the contour, a light frame is made, fixing its parts on the walls and ceiling. Only part of the rack can be used for storage, but in small apartments it is convenient to use the inaccessible top shelf for storing necessary, but rarely used things in the household. It is convenient to put mops, panicles or other relatively large items in a tall cabinet.

How to make a closet in the toilet behind the toilet yourself

The construction of the structure consists of several stages:

• planning;
• preparation of parts according to the project;
• frame assembly;
• installation of the interior;
• hanging doors and decorating.

All operations are easily performed without an assistant.

Dimensions and design

Before you make a closet in the toilet behind the toilet, you should measure the height, width and depth of the future structure. If the installation of a free-standing structure is chosen, then its dimensions are determined by tying them to the width of the wall. In a small room where the cabinet will take up the entire wall, you will need to make several measurements of the width and depth along the entire height of the structure. This will allow you not to make a mistake if the walls are not too even, and not to adjust the already assembled locker in place.

When drawing up a project, you need to consider the location of the shelves, the distance between them. External design consists in the choice of facade panels or doors, their size and quantity. For stand-alone models, you will also have to choose the method of finishing the visible parts. A hanging cabinet above the installation will require solving the same problems, but it is also recommended to evaluate the height at which its lower edge will be located: if it protrudes beyond the front wall of the tank, there is a risk of hitting your head when lifting from the toilet.

We prepare material and tools

Among the tools that you will definitely need when hanging or building a cabinet of any model, there should be a drill or a hammer drill with different nozzles. They will be required for drilling concrete or brick walls of the room, to which parts of the structure or hooks for hanging must be attached. Fasteners will also be required for the puncher: self-tapping screws with dowels at least 7-10 cm long.

The rest is selected depending on the material from which the cabinet is built:

• hacksaw or electric saw for wooden parts;
• scissors for metal and a screwdriver for drywall products.

Measuring tools (tape measure, building level, square) will come in handy.

The materials for the manufacture of shelves in the rack must withstand the weight of the items that will be placed on them. The best choice would be boards or metal lattice structures of various types. You can buy them at a hardware or hardware store. To attach them to the walls, a bar with a section of 2x2 or 3x3 cm is used. Its quantity is estimated by calculating the total length of all rack supports.

A niche or built-in closet is often made from plasterboard. This material is easy to process and allows you to build light and durable false panels, placed at the right distance from the wall. The frame for the structure is made of a bar or a special profile.

Exterior decoration can be done using various materials. The main requirement for them is moisture resistance.

Wood

Wooden panels can close part of the walls where shelves are not installed. If the wood will not be covered with other materials, it must be painted or varnished to protect it from moisture. It is desirable that the wooden panels are in harmony with other furnishings.

For the manufacture of the cabinet, you can use different types of wood materials:

• solid board (lining, floor lath, etc.);
• furniture board;
• plywood with a thickness of at least 0.5 cm;
• Chipboard and its varieties.

Plastic

Panels can also be made from leftover plastic wall coverings or slope finishes. These materials are convenient in the construction of frame structures (niches, built-in cabinets). They are also suitable for hiding the presence of shelves. To do this, you can use the finish to match the panels on the walls of the toilet.

From plastic materials, you can choose another one that is well suited for this purpose: polycarbonate. Rigid sheets will allow you to make transparent or translucent doors, beautifully decorate the wall above and below the cabinet. The main advantages of plastic are moisture resistance and easy surface care.

Ceramics

Ceramics is used only for finishing a structure already assembled from other materials. Using adhesive compositions, the tiles can be fixed not only on the fixed parts of the structure, but also on its doors. You can use tiles, stone imitation, mosaic or mirror varieties. Even a battle of tiles after repair is suitable for decoration: you can create mosaic panels from pieces of ceramics and hide both the temporary wall and the doors under the tiles.

Drywall

A homemade closet in the toilet is often assembled from plasterboard. Depending on the design option and the size of the room, the structure can only serve as a false wall with a niche or be used as the walls of a free-standing rack. Only shelves that are planned to be heavily loaded should not be made from GKL: the material breaks easily.

What to make doors

For the manufacture of doors, ready-made parts of old furniture are suitable if their size matches the cabinet bus. In the absence of ready-made parts, it is easy to assemble them yourself. Each prefabricated door consists of a frame (bar 2x2 cm) and an insert into it. One-piece models are conveniently made from sheet materials (chipboard or plywood).

Doors with battens

Calculate the length and width of the product and cut 4 bars for the frame: 2 vertical and 2 horizontal. Connect the parts into a rectangle using corners and self-tapping screws on the wrong side. From the facade, the door is strengthened and at the same time trimmed with a crate.

Thin slats can be used as parts of the crate, placing them vertically or horizontally and attaching each over the plane of the frame to self-tapping screws. Between the slats leave gaps or fasten them closely.

The crate can be made from parts of a decorative screen (for example, for radiators). This is a panel made of sheet material with holes, which is easy to saw and fasten with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the frame. Other sheets are used in the same quality: plywood, plasterboard, plastic, etc.

Roller doors

To make blinds with your own hands, you will need many thin strips of wood (plywood) or hard plastic. On the lateral vertical parts of the frame, parallel cuts of 0.5-1 cm are made at an angle. It is important to carefully mark both parts so as not to warp the blinds. After that, the frame is assembled, and the strips are inserted into the cuts, fixing each with glue. In conclusion, a finishing rail or a figured baguette is attached to the front side of the door along the perimeter, slightly overlapping the junction of the blinds and the frame.

Plumbing plastic hatch

A convenient option for a small cabinet is a ready-made inspection hatch. This product can be purchased at the store and installed in a false panel.

Sanitary hatch under the tile

A large hatch can be disguised as tiled panels. First, the frame is assembled and false wall panels are hung on it, and then a hatch is installed. In conclusion, the wall is pasted over with the same tiles as the walls of the toilet. It is necessary to glue the material with a gap so that there is an imperceptibly increased distance between the edge of the hatch and the panels.

roller shutters

It is better to buy this product ready-made, with a lifting mechanism. It must be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. The convenience of the design in moving the curtain up and down: with this opening, the doors do not require space if the toilet is small.

Glass

Glass inserts are fixed in a frame or a sliding door system is mounted. For its simplified version, you can use plastic skids without a roller insert (it is not needed for a small door). Sliding glass in furniture walls is arranged according to this principle. If the glass is cut by yourself, you need to process all its edges with sandpaper so that they are not sharp.

Equipping the cabinet with glass doors, you should give preference to matte varieties of material: opaque glass will help hide the contents of the niche.

Mounting

There are many ways to make a closet in the toilet with your own hands. The easiest option is to install wall-mounted or free-standing cabinets:

1. For a stand-alone product, parts are cut out of sheet material (MDF, chipboard or plywood 2.5-3 cm thick). The sides and the roof are connected with self-tapping screws and a corner. For shelves, horizontal bars are attached to the inside of the sidewalls. The level of the lower shelf should be 15-20 cm higher than the top of the tank in order to provide access to the flush button. The distance between other shelves can be arbitrary. In the back of the cover and shelves, a cutout is made for the riser and pipes. The doors are hung at the end of the assembly.
2. Ready-made wall cabinets for the toilet are attached to special hooks. Holes are drilled in the wall at the desired height, and then dowel bushings are inserted into them. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes of the hook, fixing it on the wall. The cabinet is hung on a bracket.

To assemble a built-in cabinet, frame structures are made from a bar or profile:

• on the floor, walls and ceiling, vertical and horizontal parts are fastened to the dowels at the level of the rear side of the tank;
• make horizontal jumpers where the edges of the niche will be;
• cut plastic panels or sheets of plasterboard according to the size of the part of the wall to be sewn and fasten with self-tapping screws to the frame bars;
• inside the niche put rows of supports for shelves: 2 at the height of the lower edge, focusing on the facade, 2 pcs. for each shelf (on opposite walls);
• the lower shelf should cover the entire surface of the niche inside, and the rest may be a little narrower, if doors are provided, all shelves are fixed with screws to the support bars;
• hinges are attached to the vertical bars on the sides of the niche and doors are hung;
• do the exterior work.

As a finishing coating for the walls of a built-in or other cabinet, paints and varnishes, tiling, and pasting with a film are used.

August 3, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

A toilet with a closet behind the toilet is not just a bathroom, but a kind of pantry: of course, you can’t hide large items here, but shelves are almost perfect for storing household chemicals, small tools and not the most necessary utensils.

The obvious advantage of this solution is the fact that you can make a cabinet yourself, using not the most expensive materials and tools that almost every craftsman has. How to do this, and what a closet can be - I will tell in this article.

Varieties of cabinets

When optimizing free space (this is especially true in small apartments), we often try to adapt unused areas for storing various small things. One such area is the back wall of the bathroom: if a boiler is not placed on it, then it is usually empty.

One of the best options for using this wall would be to install a small cabinet there. In principle, this is quite justified: the toilet is still almost impossible to put close to the bearing surface, which means that due to the tank we have a “dead zone” with a depth of about 30 - 40 cm. This is just enough so that the rack or cabinet does not hindered.

Analyzing the design options for such cabinets, I came to the conclusion that almost all projects can be reduced to two varieties:

1. Hanging module. This option is preferred if you do not plan to do carpentry work. It is enough just to buy or order a design according to the size of the bathroom, and then hang it on two anchors driven into the wall. The limiting factor here is the strength of the wall: in some houses, the partition between the toilets of neighboring apartments does not differ in thickness, so it will be problematic to hang a heavy chipboard / MDF structure.

1. Built-in wardrobe. Since the price of a hinged product can be quite high, many craftsmen prefer not to overpay, but to make facades on their own. This approach allows you to significantly save on materials: by and large, we will only need shelves and doors, since the niche itself will perfectly cope with the role of the side and rear walls.

When planning the reconstruction of the bathroom in my apartment, I proceeded from approximately the same considerations. Looking ahead, I will say that the built-in wardrobe turned out to be quite reliable and functional, so below I will share the recipe for its manufacture.

Manufacturing technology

Design diagram: step 1

The manufacture of a built-in toilet cabinet begins with the design. Of course, the product is quite simple, but still its contours must be sketched on paper at least schematically, with approximate dimensions.

In my case, the product looked like this:

1. The basis was a frame made of wooden beams 30x30 mm. From these parts, the front frame was made, on which the facade parts were attached.
2. The shelves rested on transverse bars attached to the walls. I made them solid, but in principle, this design can be abandoned either in favor of small wooden blocks or in favor of metal corners.
3. For long shelves, it is better to make longitudinal guides, as in the image below.

The standard height of the shelves is from 25 to 35 cm, but you can deviate from these values. For example, I made the distance between the last shelf and the ceiling equal to 55 cm, and this turned out to be very convenient for storing bulky items.

1. The front part of the bottom was attached to the lower beam of the frame, the back - to the support bar fixed on the wall of the toilet. From above, I did not close the structure, because I made the cabinet close to the ceiling.
2. The depth of the cabinet was 35 cm: I picked it up in such a way that the closed doors would not interfere with the person sitting on the toilet.
3. Both the facade and the shelves were made of 16 mm thick laminated chipboard.
4. Standard furniture hinges were used to fasten the facade.

It should be noted that this construction is not the only possible one. You can experiment with options: the main thing is that the frame is reliable enough and firmly fixed on the walls of the bathroom.

Basic materials and tools: step 2

As I noted earlier, for work, I chose the most affordable materials. The cabinet turned out to be quite cheap, so in the table below I will give the approximate cost of the raw materials used:

As for the tools, the set included the following items:

• perforator with a drill for concrete;
• drill;
• Forstner drill for fixing furniture hinges;
• screwdriver with magnetic bit;
• wood saw;
• level;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• a hammer;
• screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).

In principle, to speed up the work, you can only add a circular or reciprocating saw to the kit, but you have to cut quite a bit, so I managed with a hacksaw quite quickly.

Making blanks: step 3

In this section, I will show you how to make all the parts needed to assemble a built-in toilet closet. There will not be so many labor-intensive operations here, but they are still present:

1. We start with the simplest - the manufacture of frame elements. First, we measure the height of our cabinet (the lower edge is about 25 cm from the lid, the upper one is under the ceiling), and we cut out two blanks for the side parts of the front frame from a wooden beam.

1. Next, we measure the width of the niche in which the cabinet will be located, and cut out three fragments of the bar - the top and bottom of the front frame plus the rear support beam, to which the bottom will be attached.
2. We select the appropriate depth of the shelves and, in accordance with this size, cut out several pairs of support bars. The bottom pair will be for attaching the bottom.
3. We carefully sand all the details, after which we impregnate them with either a stain or a moisture-proof composition with antiseptic components - so we will be sure that the high humidity of the bathroom will not provoke wood decay.

1. The next stage is the manufacture of facades. From the chipboard sheet, it is necessary to cut out two rectangles, the dimensions of which will correspond to the dimensions of the cabinet. Naturally, we make small gaps on the sides that will allow the doors to open without clinging to the walls.

I ordered chipboard cutting right at the time of purchase, so I didn’t have to suffer with cutting. This is really an ideal option: yes, you will have to overpay a little, but the parts will be a) even, b) without lamination chips and c) exactly in size.

1. We subject the cut facades to edging: we glue an edge tape on the ends of the panel, heating it with an iron. At the same time, the glue melts, and the material reliably closes the panel cut, giving it a more aesthetic appearance and protecting it from moisture penetration into the thickness of the chipboard.

1. By the same principle, we make shelves, only at the corners we make a sample so that they fit snugly against the front frame. Leave the bottom panel unselected. It may also be necessary to make holes in the shelves through which the riser or other pipes will pass.

Now that we have all the details ready, we proceed to the installation of the cabinet in the room.

Cabinet assembly: step 5

It is better to install the frame for the structure before repair - so we do not have to save tiles or other finishes when drilling. But the facades should be hung at the very end, after facing the bathroom, otherwise there is a risk of staining or damaging them.

The installation instructions assume the following sequence of actions:

1. First, we attach the frame elements to the walls. To do this, we press each beam against the wall, align it according to the level and make holes in it with a drill with a drill for wood. Through the holes with a pencil or an awl, we mark points for nests in the wall.
2. At the marked points, we drill nests in concrete with a perforator. The optimal depth is about 60 mm, diameter is 6-8 mm.
3. We hammer a plastic dowel into each nest. We apply a beam and fix it through a pre-drilled hole with a locking screw.
4. After completing the assembly of the frame, we lay it on the side guide shelves. They can be left without fasteners, or they can be fixed with two or three self-tapping screws on each side.

1. From below, we attach a panel to the frame, which we fasten with self-tapping screws around the perimeter.
2. We make round holes in the facades with a Forstner drill for installing hinges. We install the hinges in the grooves and fix them with self-tapping screws. We fasten the reciprocal parts of the loops on the side posts of the front frame.

1. We install small handles on the front of the facades.
2. We hang the facades by inserting the hinges into the counterparts and adjusting them by turning the fixing screws.
3. To make the cabinet look as attractive as possible, fragments of a wooden beam protruding beyond the edge of the facades can be pasted over with a vinyl film in the color of the lamination of the doors themselves.

Conclusion

Making simple shelves in the toilet behind the toilet with your own hands, and even making a full-fledged closet with doors - the so-called secret room - is quite a feasible task even for a beginner in carpentry. And yet, it is worth taking on it only after studying the above tips and watching the video in this article.

If you still have questions, feel free to ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to provide you with the necessary advice or suggest how best to cope with a particular task.

Small spaces need proper organization of space. In the toilet you need to store hygiene items and household chemicals. Shelves allow you to put everything you need compactly without taking up too much space. Models of shelves are different, as well as materials.

Features and types

The organization of storage space worries many housewives, because there is never a lot of space. The advantage of lockers over installation:

• additional place;
• depending on the design, it can become a full-fledged element of decor;
• allows you to hide pipes and wires;
• open designs allow you to decorate the toilet by placing vases or figurines;
• structures with facades help to hide household chemicals and hygiene items from prying eyes;
• a variety of types allows you to choose a design for a room of any size.

The use of shelves in the toilet allows you to place all the necessary items. Models can be varied.

• Freestanding. The design of the rack consists of open shelves. It is convenient to store things, and some can even be hidden behind the facade. Dimensions are selected according to the size of the toilet bowl. Such a shelf occupies the entire wall and is spacious.

• Mounted. Universal models can be found in any furniture store. Such shelves can be installed even in a very small room above the toilet.

If you use a hinged glass structure, the room will visually become larger.

• open models. Such niches are rather decorative. The recess can be decorated with lighting. Can be combined with other designs.

Commonly used for books, magazines, beautiful vases and jars. You can put a couple of rolls of toilet paper.

• Niches with facades. The built-in wardrobe allows you to save space as much as possible in a small toilet. The design does not interfere with access to pipes.

• Corner. The original version allows you to use the space to the maximum. Usually plywood is used for manufacturing, but you can choose another option.

It is important to use hidden fasteners so as not to damage the wall.

Variety of materials

Shelves should be durable and wear-resistant, not afraid of washing. Popular materials are

• Drywall. Universal material allows you to create designs of any kind. Usually mounted on a metal profile for strength. When making it yourself, you first need to prepare the frame, and then attach sheets of drywall of a suitable size. The surface is leveled with putty, then you can start decorating.

• Wood. Only high-quality material is used, boards without stains and deformations. Before making wooden shelves, the surface must be carefully sanded. Be sure to cover the boards with varnish so that they do not suffer from external influences. The stain will allow you to change the shade of the wood, and the burner will give the effect of antiquity.

Products made from such material look presentable, however, it is better to hang them on the wall, where it is less humid. Structures are capable of withstanding heavy loads.

• Chipboard. The material is affordable and can have a variety of decor. In the manufacture of shelves, laminated sheets should be used. The edges are glued to the ends to protect the material and enhance the decorative properties.

The thickness of the material should be about 1.5 cm, can not be used in a toilet combined with a bath. Moisture is very damaging to the material.

• OSB. The sheets are much stronger than the previous version. It will not work to decorate products with carved monograms, the material crumbles. OSB boards have an interesting pattern, so they can not be painted, but simply varnished or stained, as is the case with wood.

It is noteworthy that the shelves are strong and durable.

• Metal and glass. Fasteners are made from the first material, and the shelves themselves from the second. It is worth choosing glass at least 6 mm thick. Otherwise, the structure will not withstand the load and will quickly break. Fasteners can be purchased at a hardware store, and glasses of the right size can be ordered from a workshop. It is important to place the supports evenly. Shelving made of metal can be used without glass. It is convenient if they are equipped with wheels and can be moved at will. The structure is very easy to clean. The only drawback is a lot of weight.

• Plywood. Shelves can be made of material with a thickness of 6-10 mm. It is noteworthy that plywood bends and allows you to create intricate shapes. From plywood 4 mm thick, you can make a shelf for a phone or magazines. For fastening, self-tapping screws of a suitable size are used.

The material is moisture resistant, however, the shelves will not withstand heavy objects, they will sag.

• Plastic. It will not work to make such a shelf on your own, however, the stores offer a wide range of different sizes and designs. You can additionally decorate with paint or self-adhesive paper. Quite a budget option is not afraid of high humidity.

Design options

Shelves are installed after the repair, when the style of the interior is chosen. Furniture for storage must be selected correctly, otherwise the dissonance will be very noticeable. The shelves above the installation look especially advantageous and original. Light structures on the walls can visually make the room larger, which is especially important for a separate toilet.

Wide and open shelves visually conceal square meters. Separate small designs look more original and allow you to place household chemicals, toilet paper and decor. Small closed products are outwardly more accurate and roomy. However, this design requires more space.

Look good in the bathroom floor metal racks or systems with baskets. Shelves of this type allow you to place all the necessary items, up to the decor. One compartment can be left free to put your phone and other personal items there. Glass shelves are suitable for a small toilet, they visually lighten the space.

Placement of shelves above the installation

In modern apartments, the toilet is often combined with a bathroom and a laundry room. Regardless of the layout, the shelves above the toilet look interesting and are a practical storage solution. Accommodation options are.

• open shelving need to be maintained in a constant manner, however, the high decorative effect is worth it. Dust quickly appears on the shelves, so they will have to be wiped daily. In use, this design is the most convenient. It is enough to reach out and take the desired item. Stacks of towels in the color of the interior look spectacular on such shelves.

• A single shelf will not bring trouble during installation. A wide range of materials and decor will allow you to choose something original and suitable for the interior of the toilet.

Typically, such designs are used purely decorative. Towels, vases, figurines, air freshener - a standard set of contents.

• Shelves with fronts look more massive, but allow you to hide all household chemicals and toilet paper. If there is a mess inside, no one will see it. Dust in the closet needs to be wiped much less often than on open shelves.

Mounting

Before installing the wall structure, markings should be made on the wall. First, the frame is attached, and then the shelves themselves are mounted. If the wall is decorated with tiles, you will have to pre-drill holes in it for fasteners. The following fasteners are used:

• L-shaped metal;
• triangles;
• rods.

If the partition into which the shelf is mounted is strong, then there will be no problems. It is enough to drill a hole with a drill with a drill of a suitable diameter, and insert the part for fastening. If the wall is of weak strength, usually made of gypsum concrete or foam concrete, then you will have to make a supporting structure so that the shelf does not collapse. Here are some ways to implement.

• The drilled hole must be sealed with a small amount of glue, and only then insert the dowel. Suitable liquid nails and composition for ceramic tiles.
• The hole should be made with a drill of a smaller diameter than the dowel. So he won't get loose inside.
• The use of spacers.
• Using large dowels or nesting one within the other.

How to make shelves in the toilet behind the toilet, see the following video.