Sheathing walls with plasterboard in a brick house. Plasterboard wall cladding

Sheathing walls with drywall for leveling and preparing for finishing is increasingly replacing traditional starting plaster. Drywall was invented for this: a synonym for it, as you know, is dry plaster. Leveling walls with drywall, firstly, is much easier and cheaper than plastering in the old fashioned way. Especially - wooden walls: in order to plaster a tree in the Old Testament way, you must first put glassine on the wall, then felt soaked in a liquid clay solution and a 2-level crate of shreds. Secondly, the most experienced plasterer, working with a falcon and a trowel, will not remove the plaster layer more evenly than 3 mm / m. The plaster itself, drying out, will give more unevenness, because. applied in spots. Meanwhile, for many modern methods of decorative wall decoration, 3 mm / m is the limit.

Sheathing with drywall allows you to bring the wall to a total, between the corners diagonally, unevenness of 2 mm. Besides, plasterboard sheathing has a trace in front of solid plaster. Benefits:

• Hygienic and hypoallergenic - does not dust, does not get dirty.
• Improves heat and sound insulation of housing.
• "Breathes", i.e. absorbs excess water vapor from the air and releases it when there is a shortage; this is especially important in an apartment house made of reinforced concrete or sand-lime bricks. The breath of drywall is not as deep and even as wood, but still - not a stone.

The disadvantages of leveling walls with drywall are only 2, but quite serious.

The first is fragility. If the wall plastered in the usual way has a furniture corner, a pothole is possible, which is easy to repair. If a stumbled or slipped person leans against such a wall, nothing will happen to her at all. Drywall in both cases is threatened with a break and cracks.

The second is the poor availability of hidden communications. If a pipe leaks in a regular wall or the wiring burns out, the case will be managed with a strobe, which is subsequently sealed. If the accident is behind drywall, you will have to remove at least one slab, spoiling the fine finish until it needs to be completely replaced.

Given all these circumstances, and you need to decide the question: or drywall. In modern budget and mid-level housing, the result is most often in favor of the latter due to low cost and ease of work. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give the reader the most complete idea of ​​​​how to sheathe and level the walls with drywall with your own hands, because. lining them room approx. 12 sq. m by hired craftsmen costs somewhere from 30 thousand rubles, the popularity of the material affects pricing.

Material

Drywall is a pressed mass of cellulose filler with a gypsum binder, covered with a protective paper layer. It is produced in sheets (GKL), up to 16 mm thick, and in plates (GKP) up to 32 mm thick. For wall and ceiling cladding, GKL are used ordinary, moisture-resistant GKLV green, fire-resistant GKLO red or orange and fire-resistant GKLVO green with a red stripe.

GKLO and GKLVO are used for finishing wooden buildings, because. in the event of a fire, they delay the spread of the flame for a time sufficient to evacuate people. All types of GKL and GKP are intended for internal use only, tk. long-term exposure to external conditions can not withstand. GKV racks in rooms with high humidity and occasional splashing (bathroom / bathroom, hallway, basement, garage), but not under windy rain.

The parameters of the most commonly used gypsum plasterboard sizes are given in the table, but in trade practice they are often divided more simply: into arched ones up to 6.5 mm thick, ceiling 9.5 mm thick and wall 12.5 mm thick (all including paper coating). Arched drywall is intended for the manufacture of three-dimensional decorative structures, but can also be used for auxiliary wall cladding, see below. Ceiling plasterboards of lesser weight, as the name implies, sheathe ceilings.

Basic cladding methods

Finishing the walls with drywall can be done frame (along the crate), frameless on glue and combined. The latter in all properties and qualities is equivalent to frameless, so they are often not separated. The advantage of frameless cladding GKL is the utmost simplicity and low cost of work. It also has less effect on the fragility of drywall due to the larger area of ​​its adhesion to the bearing (base) wall. The disadvantage is the dependence of the stability of the entire skin on the state of the base wall: if it freezes or somehow loses its surface strength, a sudden collapse of the entire skin is possible at once. Also, glue cannot be used on wooden walls. In principle, it is possible that adhesives such as aquarium silicone or Moment-gel hold the GCR equally well on the tree and never show through on the skin with spots. But the cost of finishing will be such that mahogany lining is unlikely to cost more. Therefore, further attention will be paid to the cladding of the GKL along the frame, as more expensive, but reliable and allowing the room to be insulated from the inside.

Note: some consider it an additional advantage of plasterboard sheathing along the frame that it is feasible without stripping the base wall, i.e. on old plaster and wallpaper. But, firstly, this cannot be done for sanitary and hygienic reasons. Secondly, without a technical assessment of the condition of the main bearing surface, there can be no confidence in the reliability of the entire skin.

GKL on the frame

GKL wall cladding technology on the frame is based on the use of thin-walled galvanized steel profiles. Sheathing on a wooden crate has by now completely outlived itself even on partitions in heated rooms: after 3-4 years, cracks creep along it from thermal deformations and warping of wood. GKL sheathing on a wooden frame is suitable for small elements of three-dimensional structures, sheathed in pieces without seams. GKL sheathing on a steel frame includes the following. work stages:

1. Preparation of the wall and existing communications;
2. The choice of frame scheme, profiles and fasteners to it;
3. Measuring the unevenness of the bearing wall, marking under the frame, cutting and cutting the plasterboard;
4. Frame installation;
5. GKL fastening to the frame;
6. Grouting;
7. Installation of skirting boards covering the gaps.

Wall

From the wall under the GKL sheathing, you need to remove the old finish. Wiring is laid in strobes; pipes are encircled by a frame using crossbars (see below), because it is unacceptable to make cuts in the frame profiles for communications.

Profiles

For wall sheathing, you will need profiles of the standard sizes shown in fig. Sometimes the so-called. hat profile (see below). Shaped finishing profiles are most often used for cladding GKL slopes, but this is a special issue, much more complicated than wall cladding; masters charge $30-$100 for 1 slope, depending on its size and complexity.

Note: PS rack profiles are sometimes called wall profiles, and PN guides are wall profiles.

Frameworks

A typical scheme for cladding a GKL wall on a frame made of PN, PNP and PS profiles shown on the next. rice. Suitable for most types of stone walls, also in a wooden house made of glued laminated timber, because. it practically does not warp and does not “play” from temperature changes. Suitable for internal insulation and double cladding (see also at the end). According to a typical crate, it is possible to sheathe the walls of the GKP.

Sheathing on hat profiles(see next fig.) is much cheaper than a typical one, but is only allowed in dry, heated rooms. On wooden purlins, you need to take a seasoned beam 75x50 of chamber drying. If the total unevenness of the wall is up to 10 mm, and the local unevenness is up to 3 mm / m, the hat profiles can be fixed directly to the wall (see also below, about fasteners for the frame). Sheathing on hat profiles is possible with trimmings or pieces of GKL staggered, as well as horizontally oriented sheets. This can be significant if the height of the room (for example, 3.6 or 2.4 m) does not agree well with the length of the GKL sheets. Double sheathing on hat profiles is not recommended.

Finally, a case is possible when the thickness of the skin together with the frame requires a minimum e.g. in tight spaces. Then it is possible to carry out the crate under the GKL only from ceiling profiles (following the figure), but double and single GKL with a thickness of more than 14 mm and the GKP frame from ceiling profiles will not withstand. The recommended GKL thickness for installation on a frame made of ceiling profiles is up to 10 mm. The frame of the same type can also be assembled only from PS profiles, however, it will turn out to be just as weak, but of full typical thickness.

Note: sealing-damper tape in all cases - from microporous rubber or similar material 4-6 mm thick.

fasteners

A wide range of fasteners for frames under the GKL is on sale, but a direct suspension can be considered universal (pos. 1 in the figure below), especially since direct hangers can be doubled, pos. 2; the "mustache" sticking forward is bent to the side. This allows you to mount the frame with the possibility of insulation on walls with potholes / bumps up to 40-50 mm. The mounting feet of direct hangers can be bent back for mounting exactly on a corner or a wooden stand (see below). Direct hangers are fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws in propylene dowels with the threaded part entering the wall, at least:

• Concrete - 70 mm.
• From red solid brick - 80 mm.
• From silicate and red hollow bricks - 90 mm.
• Wooden - 100 mm.
• From foam concrete, aerated concrete, PGB - 120 mm.

It is unlikely that any frame under the gypsum board will do without crossbars, to bypass openings, communications and assemble additional load-bearing beams at the junctions of the sheet belts. The crossbars are cut from the same profile as the vertical racks of the frame. For their fastening, there are corner hangers on sale, but most craftsmen do without additional fasteners. If you cut through the corners of the profile, as in pos. 3a, we get 3 mounting legs, pos. 3 b. But it is unacceptable to fasten the crossbars to the uprights (pos. 3c) in loaded structures: the heads of the self-tapping screws will become centers of dangerous local stresses in the skin. Sometimes the middle leg is cut out (pos. 3c), the side ones are bent, and the crossbars are fixed flush, but the knot turns out to be rather weak. It will be correct to cut the middle paw and put it on top of the vertical stand, pos. 4. When installing the sheathing, a self-tapping screw will cut into it, the sheathing sheet will be pressed, and the entire fastening assembly will be very reliable.

What to fasten?

Since it was necessary to touch upon the issues of assembling the frame and fastening the skin ahead of time, it must be said that the frame is assembled on self-tapping screws for LN9 metal (with a pressure washer head), and the gypsum board is attached to the frame with TN25 self-tapping screws. The head of the latter is not conical! It smoothly passes into the body of the screw! If you attach the GKL with taper-head screws, the sheathing will not last long, see also below. Mounting holes for self-tapping screws are punched in advance with a special profile cutter, see fig. If they are simply drilled, then a skirt for threading is not formed, and the self-tapping screws will not hold at all.

Marking for the frame

By cleaning the wall with a long, even rail - the rule (emphasis on "and") - determine its general unevenness; you may have to change the selection of the wireframe scheme. Then find the height of the most protruding hillock. After that on the ceiling beat off a line perpendicular to adjacent walls and spaced from the level of the top of the highest mound of the sheathed wall by at least 20-30 mm. From this line, another is beaten off along a plumb line on the floor; in this way, the alignment of the frame parts is greatly simplified.

Further, starting from the corner along the plumb line, vertical lines are beaten off in increments of 600 mm so that they fall exactly at the joints of the sheets. It should also be taken into account that the GKL sheets should be 20-30 mm from adjacent walls, floors and ceilings. That is, the first line is beaten off at 620-630 m from the corner, the next at 1220-1230 mm, etc. The last line should be the same 20-30 mm from the final corner, plus half of the mounting width of the profile, i.e. by 80-90 mm.

The next step - on the vertical lines make a mark of 80-90 mm from the floor and the following in increments of 600 mm, until less than 600 mm is left to the ceiling. Then the last vertical marks are also made 80-90 mm from the ceiling. A direct suspension is applied to the vertical marks in turn and the places for drilling holes for self-tapping screws into the wall are marked in place. If there are not enough standard sheets in height for this room, in a similar way, but now by level, mark the wall for mounting the crossbars. Do not forget that the longitudinal axis of the cross member profile must also fall at the junction of the plates of the sheathing belts! That's all for now, you can be distracted by marking and cutting the GKL.

GKL preparation

At this stage of work, you first need to cut incomplete sheets to size. It is simple to cut the GKL: an incision with a mounting knife, a break in weight, a cut from the inside, see fig. below. “From the inside out” is conditional, both layers of the GKL are the same. Next, chamfers are removed from the edges of the sheets for grouting. To do this, you need an edge planer for drywall, see fig. on right. If you have a one-time job for yourself, then it is better to rent it, because. for something else this tool is unsuitable. You need to take a planer at 2 angles - at 45 and 22.5 degrees; why - see below, about grouting.

Note: cut to size in width the last sheet along the row (belt) should be approx. 10 mm narrower than measured. The fact is that for thermal deformations of the sheets themselves, a gap of 1-2 mm must be given between them. On a wall of normal length, somewhere so much will come running. You can take this value into account when marking the wall under the frame, but there will be a lot of fuss, and a profile width of 60 mm on a regular wall is enough to compensate for the discrepancy.

The next moment is marking and drilling / cutting holes and openings for sockets, lamps, pipes, ventilation, etc. To do this, it is convenient to use a sheet of ordinary packaging cardboard 600 mm wide: it is applied to the wall, pressed over the recesses with the palm of your hand, outlined with a pencil, cut out and transferred to the drywall. In drywall, holes are cut with a pen or circular drill, and rectangular openings with a drywall knife. It looks like a mounting blade, only its blade is thicker and stronger.

Frame assembly

The installation of the frame for the cladding of the GKL begins with the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. If adjacent walls are not sheathed, PN profiles are also placed on them to make a solid frame, see fig. on right; the connection of its corners - for each on both sides with a TN9 self-tapping screw (so that the head does not protrude). First fixing points to the floor/ceiling 60 mm from the edge; the rest - with a step of approx. 300 mm so that the latter also falls 60 mm from the other edge.

Next, direct suspensions are attached to the wall, PS / PP profiles are inserted into the PN / PPN (first at the bottom, then at the top), shifted to the place and checked for their evenness horizontally and vertically with a rule and a plumb line or a level in which there is a tube for plumbness. If before. the work was done neatly, then additional alignment is not required. Then the "whiskers" of direct suspensions are bent to the rack profiles and the profiles are attached.

The next stage is the installation of the crossbars. How it is done is described above, but sometimes, say, when tracing pipes running along the wall, a second level needs to be added to the frame. This is done using 2-level crabs, see fig. left. It may also be necessary to assemble the cross members from pieces, because. they will be cut off. It is permissible to assemble rack and guide profiles from pieces only in the most extreme case!

Sections of the profile are connected end-to-end with straight connectors, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

In critical places, for example, in the outline of doorways, windows and mortgages for hanging furniture and equipment, it is highly desirable to connect crossbars with racks not in a simple way, but with the help of special crosses, the so-called. single-level crabs, pos. 3 and 4.

In the end, you should end up with something like the one in Fig. on right.

corners

In the case when GKL sheathed all the walls, special attention should be paid to the stroke of the corners. With internal problems usually do not happen; schemes for tracing the inner corners for sheathing on the frame and combined on glue (see below) are given in pos. 1 and 2 next. rice. By the way, over the past year and a half, the Knauf GKL has been messed up to a complete disgrace: everything is in bubbles, soft, like foam, you can pierce it with your finger. Not counterfeit, original.

Outer corners are more difficult. It is impossible to put on their faces along the rack, at once 2 sheets will have hanging edges, which is unacceptable. The rack must be placed on one side of the corner, a hanging profile of the same type must be attached to it, and the edges of the plasterboard, pos. 3. Then, a PU profile is applied to the joint of the sheets with Fugenfüller glue or similar, pos. 4. PU is better to take with a reinforcing mesh, pos. 5.

PU protrudes above the GKL by 2-2.5 mm. This protrusion must be reduced to the general level of the skin at a width of 400-500 mm, then it will not be noticeable and will not interfere with any finishing. Smooth out the protrusion of PU with gypsum starting putty and a spatula, respectively. width.

Insulation under the lining

Generally speaking, it is bad to insulate from the inside: there is a high probability that the dew point will get inside the room. It is strongly recommended to lay insulation under the plasterboard sheathing only if the wall is already insulated from the outside. In this case, the insulation under the plasterboard sheathing of the concrete wall is done according to the scheme in Fig. on right. If the wall is brick or wooden, a semi-permeable waterproofing membrane is applied to it before mounting the frame, the same as used for thermal insulation of roofs: it does not let water through, but releases its vapors. Best of all - microperforated membrane.

Instead of penofol, you can use foilizol or a similar vapor barrier. It is superimposed on the frame before installing the skin with a continuous layer of foil inside. The overlap of the edges of the vapor barrier tapes - from 15 cm; joints are glued with construction tape. The lapels of the edges on the floor, ceiling and walls are the same; the excess is cut off after installing the skirting boards. If there is no external insulation yet, then it is necessary:

• Sheathing is made of GKLV.
• Take not mineral wool as a heater, but cellulose insulation (ecowool), it does not fall off and retains its insulating properties when wet. True, ecowool will cost approx. 25% more expensive.
• Apply a microperforated membrane to any wall before mounting the frame.

sheathing

To mark the holes for attaching the GKL to the frame, pioneer holes are drilled in the sheets, approx. 2 mm in diameter, I apply the sheets in place and mark the places of the cuts on the profiles with a bench scriber. The indentation of the sheet from the floor in 20-30 mm is provided by scraps of a wooden lath. Mark them and do not lose, otherwise the holes will not converge later!

The number of attachment points is 45-70 per sheet 2000-3000 mm long, respectively. 5 points are on the short sides (3 on the racks and 1 between them); the rest are evenly distributed along the long sides and along the center line. The extreme points should be 9-12 mm from the edge of the sheet.

An important point when attaching the GKL to the frame is the screwing of the self-tapping screws. The screwdriver must be set at minimum speed so that the head of the self-tapping screw is only pressed into the cover paper without tearing it, as in pos. 2 fig. In other cases, the fastening will turn out to be weakened by 1.5-1.8 times, and if you underscrew it (pos. 1), then the protruding heads of the fasteners will also weaken the skin. At the end of the fastening, the heads of the self-tapping screws are rubbed with gypsum putty.

Note: if there are 2-3 belts of vertical sheets on the skin on the frame, then there is no point in running it apart - the strength of the skin will not be added, only the frame will become excessively complicated. At the joints of the belts, you need to put the crossbars (see above), so that the horizontal joints fall exactly on their middles, and fasten the plasterboard as usual.

woodwork

Fasten the frame of the plasterboard sheathing directly to the wooden wall, as in fig. - a gross mistake. You can see the building people have already taken a sip of grief on this and broke firewood: many schemes of a floating crate under the GKL in a wooden house roam the Runet. In fact, ordinary direct suspensions can be an effective damper between a “walking” wooden wall and plasterboard sheathing, you just need to put them correctly.

Sheathing of wooden walls of the GKL is carried out using a vertical counter-lattice of bars from 60x75; wider (60x100, 60x150) - it won’t be worse, only more space will be taken away from the room. Frame scheme - typical, from PN / PS profiles. As for attaching direct hangers to the bars, there are 2 options.

The first is in a house made of glued laminated timber and with central heating. The mounting legs of the suspensions are bent back and attached to the beam from the sides, so the entire skin will be tougher. The second - in other cases: the suspensions are attached to the beams with pairs of wood screws 6x60 through an oval hole in the suspension shelf (see again the figure with fasteners). Self-tapping screws are taken with faceplates and screwed into the wood, stepping back from the edges of the hole by 6-10 mm. In this case, it is desirable to make the sheathing 2-layer from sheets of 9 mm (arched plasterboard).

seams

The methods of grouting joints between sheets / gypsum boards are different depending on the type of decorative wall decoration. For an elastic finish that requires an absolutely even base, but is not afraid of microcracks under it (non-woven or foam wallpaper, PVC-based photo wallpaper, plastic tiles), the chamfer on the edges is removed at 22.5 degrees so that the vertex angle of the V-shaped groove between the plates is 45 degrees. The groove is rubbed with a starting gypsum putty with a plasticizer flush with the common surface.

For other types of finishes, the edge planer is set at 45 degrees, and the top angle of the groove will be 90 degrees. In this case, the groove is filled with putty (preferably adhesive) in some excess, then rubbed into a strip. Further, until the putty has begun to set, a sickle tape is applied (on the left in the figure) and pressed with a polished steel spatula (on the right in the figure) or rolled with a slightly damp smooth roller. When the grout hardens, they rub it with putty and sickle with a smooth transition to the general plane, as on the outer corner, see above.

Note: at the crosshairs of the seams, they are first applied and pressed in a pair of L-shaped segments of a sickle with wings along the seams from 15 cm. Then a tape is laid along the seam with the same overlap on the wings.

Skirting boards

Skirting boards along the contour of the skin are attached to the floor or ceiling. If adjacent walls are sheathed, then a PU profile with a reinforcing tape is placed in the inner corner, as on the outer one, and a plinth is already attached to it with mounting glue.

Without frame

GKL sheathing on glue without a frame, as mentioned at the beginning, is quite possible. But, contrary to popular belief, its technology is determined mainly by the unevenness of the wall, and not by its material. Options for gluing GKL on the walls are given in the figure:

Method for pos. c - combined; first, a crate of strips of the same GKL is glued to the wall. According to the method used lumps of glue approx. 10 cm in diameter are applied in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 250 mm. The height of the lumps is the largest unevenness of the wall + 20 mm, because the optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is 12-20 mm. The wall for gluing GKL must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Note: prepare the glue exactly according to the instructions. It is unacceptable to close dry glue with water; you need to stir only with a drill with a mixer. In general, the strength and reliability of glued sheathing depends very much on the quality of water for the preparation of glue.

GKL is glued to the wall with continuous control of evenness horizontally (rule) and vertically (level with a bubble on a plumb line). Here the stumbling block for beginners is a crushed slab. It is unacceptable to pull it away from the wall, you can only press it down. In this case, pre-gluing beacons on the wall from scraps of the working GKL or any other can help out, see fig. on right. Firms involved in drywall will willingly give away small waste of arched GKL, they are just garbage to them. The transferred beacon can be torn off and glued again, in this case, the beacons are just a support.

Beacons are glued to the wall so that they fit between the cakes or strips of glue on the working plate. On a GCR sheet / slab, 4 beacons are needed at a certain distance from the corners. The lighthouses are first glued to the bottom row, leveling with the rule, then from the beacons of the bottom row they lead the rows up, pressing down with the rule and leveling. Plates / sheets of GKL are glued when the glue under the beacons gains strength, i.e. after 3-4 days.

Note: Recently, "folk builders" have even more reduced the cost and simplified the gluing of GKL on the wall, replacing the glue with ... mounting foam. Technically, this looks very doubtful, but there is no more or less long experience in operating such a skin, so everything is possible in the future. Watch the video if you like //www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEu7IJdnqVA and then decide if it's worth trying. In damp, cold (but not to minus!) utility rooms, it’s probably worth it. If it lasts there, it will fit everywhere. And the method is ridiculously simple and cheap.

GKL decor?

The fact that voluminous decorative interior details are made from GKL (on the left in the figure): niches, shelves, suspended ceilings, even cabinets, is well known. However, a flat multi-level decorative plasterboard finish is also possible, in the center in Fig. To do this, the blanks are glued to the wall, applying a thin (approx. 2 mm) layer of drywall adhesive to them with a notched trowel. If the room is sheathed close, where there will be no joints of plates on the walls, for example. balcony, then the sheathing can simply be painted, and PVC skirting boards or corners can be glued to the corners, on the right in fig. An option for sheathing with joints - do not chamfer the edges, leave gaps between the plates 2-3 mm, and roll a T-shaped furniture PVC edge into them with a smooth roller.

Suspension on GKL

For hanging furniture and household appliances on a wall sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, it is necessary to foresee embedded parts made of wooden beams or OSB in the frame in advance. If the suspension point accounts for up to 20-30 kg, mortgages can simply be attached to the profiles, as in the figure:

If there is more gravity at the suspension point or expensive equipment (TV, microwave oven) is suspended, then the mortgages must be framed with crossbars from the profile of the racks. Well, if that suspension point is less than 15-20 kg, then the suspensions can be fixed through the skin, see for example. video clip:

(No ratings yet)

.
An example of finishing a wall with plasterboard sheets Any person who does not have experience in construction can cope with this work. To mount drywall on the walls, you need to choose the installation option: frame or frameless.

1 option

A horizontal marking is made on the wall, along which the rack profile will be installed. The position of the vertical profiles should be marked on the floor, the installation step of the elements is 60 cm.

Measurements are taken along the axes of the elements. Sometimes for structural rigidity it is reduced to 40 cm.

Frame assembly

Measure the width of the bearing wall according to the markup and cut the required amount of profile according to these dimensions. For convenience, cut one centimeter less.


A sealing material is glued onto the guide profile before screwing. If this is not available, then you can coat the back surface with sealant. Fasten the profile according to the marks and fasten with dowels - nails. Rack profiles are installed in guides, in places where marks are made. The connection is made by "seeds" - small self-tapping screws.

Each profile is checked by a plumb line for verticality. As soon as the third profile is installed, you need to attach a drywall slab to the structure.

Its edges should end in the middle of the third rack profile. Install jumpers between the frame rails - this will give the structure rigidity. If a switch is also supposed to be on the wall, then it is worth stretching the electrical wire behind the frame and pulling out the ends. Mortgages are installed at the places where pieces of furniture are attached to the wall.

An example of installing mortgages for mounting cabinets on the wall Once all the stages of mounting the frame are completed,.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

First of all, whole plates are screwed to the frame, make sure that the sheets converge with each other exactly in the middle of the profile. Self-tapping screws are located at the seam in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 15 cm. On the sheet, the screw pitch is 25 cm. For fastening, black self-tapping screws are used, which should be screwed into drywall, deepening them by 1 mm.

The screwdriver must be set to low power so as not to spoil the fragile surface of the plasterboard. In the places where the sockets are installed, holes are made with a crown and special cups are installed into which the ends of the electrical wire are brought out.

Frameless method of finishing walls with drywall: step by step instructions

This method involves gluing GKL sheets directly onto the wall, without constructing a structure from profiles. The first step is to prepare a plane for further installation. The preparation of the surface of the walls must be given special attention, it must be carefully prepared so that the installation of drywall on the walls is successful. If the walls were previously painted with oil paint, it does not matter, it is enough to make a notch on them.
Applying glue to a sheet of drywall This work can be done using a perforator with a certain notch or a simple axe. If there are cracks or potholes in the wall, they must be repaired with a plaster solution or foamed. The mounting foam will penetrate deep into the crack, filling it to its full depth. After the foam dries, it must be cut flush with the wall.

Next, you need to remove dust from the wall, this is done with a wide brush. The next step is priming. The primer is applied in two layers, it is desirable to choose a material with antiseptic properties. The soil should dry well, usually it takes 6-10 hours.


While the primer dries, you can check the vertical of the wall, for this you can apply:

• level;
• long rule;
• plumb;
• beam with a perfectly flat surface.

Often, when performing this action, a strong curvature of the surface of the walls is revealed, they will have to be leveled. This can be done with plaster or glue when attaching sheets. The video tells and shows how to glue drywall on the wall.

The process of installing drywall on the wall

Drywall sheets can be fastened with glue or mounting foam. If the walls are even, then the adhesive can be applied over the entire surface using a notched trowel with a tooth height of 0.9 cm. After that, a sheet is substituted and pressed tightly against the surface. For reliability, the structure can be additionally fixed with dowel nails around the perimeter.

If the wall has irregularities, then the glue is applied in small cakes in those places where there is a gap between the wall and the material set to the level.


It is necessary to install the sheet and press it without violating the geometry. Once the glue has dried, you can proceed to finishing, as described above.

When you need to quickly level the walls, drywall comes to the rescue. This is an excellent material for interior work, which is available to everyone. With a sheet format, it allows you to create large flat areas. As a result, it remains only to close up the joints, carry out, if necessary, a small finish, and apply a decorative coating.

But we must not forget that the criterion for high-quality plasterboard walls will be two conditions: the installation of an even, reliable frame and the subsequent processing of the GKL (sealing, applying a finish coat). Therefore, if you plan to do all the work yourself, you need to follow certain rules and recommendations.

It should not be thought that gypsum boards can only be used to create direct structures. The scope of their application is so extensive that it is even difficult to imagine. Therefore, we can safely call this material - decorative drywall.

And indeed, even with your own hands you can create in any house - an interior that is amazing in your imagination.

Installation technologies

There are three main ways to install gypsum boards, which are used depending on the design of the house (apartment). For each specific room, an individual, most advantageous technology is used.

This method is the most popular. The order of work is as follows:

1. The walls in the room are being prepared - sealing cracks, applying an antiseptic.
2. Using special metal guides, they make the base by placing these elements around the perimeter of the site (on the floor, ceiling, adjacent walls).
3. It turns out a large rectangle, into the "frame" of which vertical profiles are inserted in increments of forty to sixty centimeters.
4. They are securely fixed to the walls, for this they use U-shaped brackets. If the height of the wall is greater than the drywall sheet, it is required to install horizontal jumpers (sections of the cut profile).
5. Do-it-yourself GKL plates are installed in their places and attached.

Now you should do additional finishing, during which the seams are closed. If it is planned to paint or apply textured plaster, then plasterboard walls are pasted over, fiberglass is suitable for this.

In principle, the use of a wooden frame is due only to the fact that it is more often used when interior decoration of a wooden house is carried out. The nuances of doing it yourself are as follows:

• For the frame, a bar 50 * 70 is used.
• It is pre-treated with refractory compounds.
• Use only well-dried wood.

Drywall is attached in the same way as is done in the case of a metal frame. Do not forget to carry out additional pasting - using fiberglass.

Laying on polyurethane foam

This is a rather specific method when there is no desire to give some area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house to the frame. Everything is done like this:

• Holes are drilled in the GCR boards.
• They are applied to the wall and the markup is transferred, the dowels are drilled and hammered.
• Next to the connectors for self-tapping screws, on the inside, pieces of foam rubber are glued.
• Drywall is attached to the wall. Screws are screwed.
• With the help of a level, the plate is leveled, another hole is made next to the screws - mounting foam is poured through it.
• After waiting for it to dry, the screws are unscrewed, everything is sealed with putty.
• It is best to strengthen such a surface with fiberglass.

Options for subsequent finishing of drywall

Of course, drywall itself is not of particular decorative value. Its surface needs further finishing, which everyone can do with their own hands. Then any house or apartment will impress with its interior.

Painting

This is a fairly traditional way that requires following some rules:

1. A primer is applied to the surface of the sheets. Penetrating compounds are used.
2. All joints are well coated, pasted over with a sickle mesh.
3. To avoid cracking glue fiberglass. It is important to prevent joining of this material at the seams of the GKL.
4. Apply a layer of putty. Gypsum mixtures are used.
5. The walls are carefully polished.
6. The paint is applied after priming, in several layers. It is better to do this with a spray gun or a roller.

On a note! Fiberglass is glued exclusively back to back. It is impossible to allow trimming along sheets of drywall.

wallpaper sticker

It seems that you can glue wallpaper on this material with your own hands as soon as all the joints are sealed. This is a deceptive impression. Yes, you can do that, but then what? If you want to change the interior of the house, they will begin to remove wallpaper from the walls, and it turns out that the protective coating of the plates comes off with them. And you will have to start additional finishing, or even change sections of the structure.

If in the future it is planned to update the interior, then wallpapering should be carried out only on prepared walls

So they do it like this:

1. Paste over drywall with fiberglass. Let the surface dry.
2. Dilute the putty to a liquid consistency.
3. Take a roller, soak it in a solution.
4. Quick movements begin to apply the mixture to the walls. Apply 3-4 layers, each time waiting for the previous one to dry.

Create a textured surface

For such work, the use of special plaster is provided. But, if desired, the interior decoration of the walls in the house can be done with ordinary putty.

The following order is observed:

• As in the previous version, fiberglass is glued. Before this, it is better to prime the surface with your own hands.
• Next, a layer of putty is applied, equal to approximately 2-3 mm.
• And now the most difficult thing is the creation of a diverse relief. For this, any improvised tools are suitable. The most important thing is to show imagination and a little perseverance. They do this: they apply a layer of putty and immediately give it the selected texture. For example, a flat spatula is applied, pressed a little and torn off. So, a semblance of a rock pattern is created.
• The walls are primed and painted.

On a note! Fiberglass is not a prerequisite for finishing plasterboard walls, but it is better not to neglect it. This ensures that the coating will always remain intact, especially when painting or creating a texture.

tile sticker

It is not so difficult to glue a tile on drywall, the technology that is used when working with simple walls is practically repeated.

So:

• I work with gypsum boards already prepared for finishing (smeared joints). But additional application of another mixture is required. Namely, they coat all the seams, joints, locations of screws (self-tapping screws) - with a solution for sticking tiles. In this case, the use of fiberglass is not necessary.
• From the highest point of the floor, measure the height of the tile + a couple of millimeters. Draw a line along the entire wall of the house. The rail (profile) is screwed flush. That is, the tiles are laid from the second row.
• Further, everything is as always: the mixture is applied to the GKL sheets, smeared with a notched trowel. And they begin to stack the products, inserting special crosses between them.
• When everything is dry, the seams are overwritten.

Drywall is a versatile material that can be used for leveling and decorating walls. It lends itself to numerous types of finishes. Thanks to this, it will be possible to obtain a completely individual interior.

The use of drywall for wall cladding is beginning to replace traditional surface finishing materials. And all thanks to a lot of advantages: simplicity, lightness, inexpensive cost of GKL sheets, the ability to hide irregularities up to 20 mm. You can carry out the work yourself, without the involvement of help. It is enough to make calculations and choose the appropriate sheathing method: with or without a frame device.

Show all

Features, advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL sheets are a versatile material that can be mounted on almost any surface. It has many advantages:

1. 1. The ability to quickly finish the walls and ceilings with your own hands. This eliminates the need for leveling solutions.
2. 2. The erected structures fit perfectly into any design solution - you can create not only flat areas, but also curvilinear, decorative ones (arches, recesses).
3. 3. Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But due to the fact that he is afraid of moisture, you can not do without the use of waterproofing material.
4. 4. It is very convenient that the entire structure can be quickly dismantled if necessary.
5. 5. By using a metal frame, good rigidity of the base can be achieved, which will last for a long time.
6. 6. You can lay communications without creating additional "channels".
7. 7. The surface of drywall sheets is treated with any finishing materials.
8. 8. This method of wall alignment is optimal for internal wall insulation in a wooden house.

Before starting work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the shortcomings of drywall.

The main disadvantage is low strength. So, the GKL sheet may burst or crack during transportation, installation, operation. Therefore, it is important to carry out the work as carefully as possible. For the same reason, it is not recommended to use these materials in places where heavy loads are expected. If you plan to hang shelves on the wall for mounting TV, other equipment and heavy structures, it is best to finish with two layers of drywall.

Another disadvantage is poor soundproofing. To improve this parameter, one cannot do without laying mineral wool or other insulation.

It is worth considering in advance which drywall you will buy. It is divided into the following types:

• simple;
• with increased resistance to fire;
• moisture resistant.

The first type is usually used to decorate rooms with a normal level of humidity. Moisture resistant GKL sheets are used in rooms with a high level of humidity. GKL with high resistance to flame are suitable for kitchens, baths, and other similar premises.

We draw up an estimate - calculation of the amount of drywall

To carry out the lining, you must correctly make all the calculations. Here you do not need to have special knowledge in the field of mathematics - it is enough to calculate the quadrature of the room.

Take into account:

• height;
• width;
• room length.

It is necessary to measure the room around the entire perimeter, and not just in the corners, since the parameters can be different. This is especially worth remembering for owners of old buildings, where there is often a serious difference in ceiling height. To take measurements, you will need a pencil, tape measure, blank sheet.

Instructions for budgeting:

• we calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls by multiplying the height by the width;
• from the total area we subtract the area of ​​​​windows and doorways;
• we add to the obtained parameters another 15-20% of the material in reserve.

How to carry out preparatory activities?

The room needs to be freed from all objects, everything superfluous must be removed from the walls, communications and wiring must be removed.

Sheathing with this material closes defects, irregularities, therefore it is not necessary to align them. But it is worth checking the integrity of the coating. Wallpaper or old paint is removed, all existing cracks are sealed.

Wall surfaces must be cleaned of dust, primed.

You will need the following tools:

• GKL sheets;
• profiles;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• brackets;
• screwdriver

Frame sheathing technology - step by step instructions

In order to sheathe the walls with the highest quality, to get a result that will delight with a long service life, it is necessary to carefully follow the finishing technology using GKL sheets.

Marking and installation of guide profiles

Step back from the walls by 2-3 cm, draw a marking line where the guide profile will be installed. If you plan to sheathe all the walls in the rooms, then the markings should be carried out parallel to them. A guide profile is applied along the intended line and installed on self-tapping screws. On the sides of the walls, vertical guide profiles are mounted, screwed with screws at the base and ceiling.

Evenness must be checked using the building level.

Profile mounting

To fasten products, first make markings on the surface: draw strict vertical lines from ceiling to floor at a distance of 50-60 cm. Brackets are screwed along the markings with an interval of 0.5 m in height.

After that, they are inserted into the lower and upper guide profile, screwed with self-tapping screws. Each product additionally needs to be strengthened with brackets.



Communications and wiring

The next step is laying wiring and communications inside the premises. The main thing is that they do not act for the guides. For installation, you need to use special clamps. At this stage, it is very important to pay attention to sealing all joints, high-quality wire insulation. This will avoid the dismantling of GKL sheets to correct the situation.

Warming

Even if you do not want to insulate the walls, a layer of mineral wool or other material is still needed to improve sound insulation. The product is cut into strips so that their width is greater than the distance between the profiles by about 3-4 cm. The insulation is laid as tightly as possible so that there are no gaps between it.

wall cladding

Sheathing must be started from the corner: take the first sheet, attach it to the profile, align it along the edges and screw it onto self-tapping screws (there must be at least 30 cm between the fasteners). We install the next sheet of GKL side by side, aligning the joints on the profile, and mount it further around the entire perimeter of the room.

There are some important tips. It is impossible for the self-tapping screws to protrude above the sheets, but it is also not worth deepening them by more than 2 mm. For control, you can use a special bit with a limiter.



Seam sealing

Since the GKL sheets have slightly rounded edges, small seams form when they are joined. To seal them, putty, a spatula and a special reinforcing tape are required. They operate simply:

• knead the mixture;
• cut off a piece of sickle of the desired length;
• apply the mixture to the seam and apply a reinforcing tape;
• straighten the material, put a layer of putty on top and distribute it over the surface.

You should not make too thick a layer - several thin ones are better, moreover, applying putty after the previous layer has dried. When the material is completely dry, it is cleaned with sandpaper.

Joints at external corners must be closed with corner profiles, fixing to a layer of putty.

Finishing sheathing

To remove minor defects that may be on drywall, it should be finished with a layer of finishing putty, which is applied with a large metal spatula. If you plan to paint the walls in the future, then you need to apply at least two layers. When the material dries, go over the sheets with sandpaper. The top is finished with clapboard or wallpaper.

According to this step-by-step instruction, partitions in the apartment can also be made from drywall.

Sheathing with frameless method

With this method, drywall is glued to the walls on a special compound. Moreover, the work must be performed only after all the “wet” processes (laying the screed, plastering) are completed. This will prevent the sheets from absorbing excess moisture in the room.

With this method of wall cladding with drywall, the material is glued directly onto a bare surface. If it is as even as possible, without damage, the adhesive mixture should be applied around the perimeter of the sheet and 1-2 stripes in the center.

But if the walls are made of brick, stone (in this case, there may be serious differences up to 2 cm), the solution must be applied to the sheet area.

It is better to use compositions such as:

• glue "Perflix";
• putty "Fugenfüller".

But if the differences on the walls are more than 2 cm, they should be leveled using plasterboard linings. To do this, you need to cut a sheet of plasterboard into strips about 10 cm wide, mount them on top of each other to get a flat wall.

Do not forget to clean the surfaces from dust, old finishing material and primer before gluing drywall sheets.

Interior decoration almost always begins with the alignment of the walls. This can be done in several ways, the most convenient of which is plasterboard sheathing. This material is easy to cut and fasten, does not require special skills and gives a perfectly flat surface. Due to the ease of installation, do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall will not take much time and will save a little.

The room is freed from bulky items, everything superfluous is removed from the wall, wiring and communications are removed. The cladding covers all irregularities and defects, so it is not necessary to level the walls, it is enough to check their integrity. Wallpaper or peeling paint must be removed, all cracks and cracks should be sealed with putty. After that, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

For wall cladding you will need:

Step 1. Installing guide profiles

The floor along the walls should be flat and clean. Stepping back from the wall a few centimeters, draw a marking line for the guide profile. If all the walls in the room are sheathed, the markings are carried out parallel to each wall and connected at an angle of 90 degrees. Now a guide profile is applied along the line and screwed to the floor with screws. Holes for dowels are pre-drilled in the concrete screed.

The length of one profile is 3 m; for building use metal connectors and self-tapping screws 9.5 mm long. For a corner connection, the end of the profile is cut on both sides, the sides are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws to the side edge of the second profile.

Further, vertical guides are installed on the sides of the wall: the lower ends of the profiles are inserted into the floor profile, leveled vertically with a plumb line and screwed with self-tapping screws at the base and to the ceiling. The ends of the ceiling guide are inserted into the right and left wall profiles, aligned with the floor profile and screwed.

Step 2. Installation of supporting profiles

To fix the supporting profiles, you need to make markings on the wall: strictly vertical lines are drawn from the ceiling to the floor every 40 or 60 cm. U-shaped brackets are screwed to the wall along the markings with an interval of 60 cm in height. The brackets are fixed to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, to a concrete or brick wall using dowel-nails. Now the carrier profiles are inserted into the lower and upper guides, the markings are set parallel and screwed on both sides with 3.5x9.5 mm self-tapping screws. Finally, each profile is reinforced vertically with brackets.

Step 3. Laying communications

After installing the frame between the profiles, the wiring is fixed, the communication pipes are laid. Both wires and pipes should not protrude beyond the guides along the entire plane. To fix communications to the wall surface, special clamps and brackets are used. Particular attention should be paid to insulating wires and sealing pipe joints so that drywall does not have to be dismantled to repair damage.

Step 4. Wall insulation

If the outer walls are insulated, you can do without internal thermal insulation, leaving free space between the drywall and the wall. But even in this case, a layer of insulation under the skin will not be superfluous: such materials have high soundproofing and properties. Before laying, the materials are cut into strips, the width of which is 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the profiles. Lay the insulation as tightly as possible so that gaps do not form.

Step 5. Sheathing the frame

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Drywall sheets are cut out sequentially. To cut the material evenly, you need to draw a line on the surface of the sheet and cut it with a sharp knife. Then the sheet is broken along the markup and cut through on the other side.

So, the skin starts from the corner:

take the first sheet and apply to the carrier profile;

align the material along the edges and screw it with self-tapping screws 25 mm long to the racks every 30 cm;

the next sheet is screwed side by side, aligning the joints on the carrier profile;

for the top row, the first sheet is cut by 40 or 60 cm so that the vertical seams move, since more than three fragments cannot be joined at one point;

before installing drywall, holes for communications are cut in the sheet at the exit points of the pipeline.

The heads of the self-tapping screws should go deeper into the skin by no more than 2 mm; also, they must not be allowed to protrude above the surface. To control the depth of immersion of self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use a bit with a limiter.

Step 6 Seam Sealing

Since drywall sheets have truncated or rounded edges, when joining adjacent fragments, grooves are necessarily formed at the seams. To close them, you will need putty, a spatula and a reinforcing tape - sickle. The starting putty is kneaded, a piece of sickle of the appropriate length is cut off, the putty mixture is applied to the seam and the sickle is applied on top. Carefully straightening the tape in the center of the joint, putty is applied again and carefully distributed with a spatula.

The putty layer should not be too thick, it is better to apply several layers until the seam is completely level with the drywall surface. When the putty dries, the joints are treated with the finest sandpaper. Qualitatively sealed seams do not have recesses and cracks and look like even white stripes on a gray wall background.

The joints on the outer corner sheathing are closed with perforated corner profiles. First, a solution is applied to the corner with a spatula, it is densely distributed in height, and then an aluminum corner is applied and pressed into the putty. Between themselves, the corners are overlapped by 5-7 cm. The putty mixture is again applied from above and a corner is formed with a spatula. Excess solution is immediately removed, and after drying, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.

Step 7. Finishing

To remove the smallest defects, drywall is covered with a thin layer of finishing putty. To do this, you need a wide metal spatula. They start from the edge of the wall: a spatula with a typed solution is placed against the wall at an angle of 10 degrees, pressed from below and with a sharp movement is led up. The more accurate and uniform the movements of the spatula, the smoother the putty will lie. If it doesn’t work out right away, you can try on a section of the wall. It is not necessary to press hard, otherwise scratches will appear on the surface, it is also impossible to release the spatula during movement in order to avoid the formation of sagging.

If the walls are planned to be painted, it is necessary to apply 2 layers of putty, then the seams will not show through the paint. After grinding, the surface is primed, and then the walls can be painted, wallpapered or covered with decorative plaster.

Video - Editing Secrets

Frameless wall cladding

There is another option for fixing drywall sheets - without the use of profiles. This method is suitable if:

• the height of the wall does not exceed 2.5 m;
• vertical deviation no more than 2 cm;
• walls do not need insulation;
• the room is dry and not subject to sudden changes in temperature.

Of course, it is impossible to glue drywall on wallpaper, decorative plaster or peeling paint, otherwise the skin will not last long.

If all conditions meet the requirements, you can start working.

Step 1. Preparing the walls

The concrete or wooden base is cleaned of dust, oil stains, and cracks are sealed. If the walls are painted and the paint is very strong, you do not need to remove it, it is enough to make small vertical and horizontal notches every 30 cm. Next, the surface is coated with a primer and dried.

Step 2. Fastening communications

Low-voltage wiring can be fixed directly on the surface, but for power electric cables and communication pipes, it is necessary to punch strobes in the wall. After laying the wires and pipes, the strobes are closed with special strips and the seams are sealed with putty.

Step 3. Cutting sheets

The lower edge of the sheathing should be 1-1.5 cm above the floor surface. If the height of the wall corresponds to the height of the drywall, the sheets are cut along the lower edge with a hacksaw. Further, if necessary, cut holes for switches, sockets, pipe outlets.

Step 4. Fixing drywall

According to the instructions, glue is diluted, applied with a notched trowel on the back of the sheet with a wide strip along the perimeter and two stripes in the center. Having placed mounting wedges from below, drywall is applied to the wall, leveled and carefully pressed. Using a level or a long ruler, check the sheet vertically and horizontally, if necessary, knocking with a rubber mallet. In the same way, an adjacent sheet is installed, trying to join it with the previous one as tightly as possible.

Step 5 Seam Sealing

Thin seams with a width of less than 4 mm are sealed with one putty; for wide seams, a sickle is additionally used. You can fill the joints with glue, removing excess with a clean cloth. The puttied areas must be sanded with fine sandpaper, and then cleaned of dust. The gap between the floor and drywall is best filled with waterproof sealant.

Now it remains to level the surface with a finishing putty, sand it and wipe it from dust. After priming, the walls can be painted, whitewashed or wallpapered - as you like.

Video - Do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall