Do you need forced ventilation in the steam room. Ventilation in the steam room: examples of proven schemes and analysis of the rules of arrangement

The Russian bath for our population is a kind of historical heritage and national property. Throughout the ages it has played an important role in the lives of all people. The bath is still famous for its ability to improve human health, and bath procedures are a great way to normalize metabolism and relieve stress.

That is why baths and saunas are growing like mushrooms on the sites of our homeowners and summer residents.

How to organize ventilation

But building a good Russian bath is not a very simple matter, as it might seem at first glance. To create a healthy atmosphere in these buildings, a very important issue is the ventilation device in the steam room of the bath..

How to set up this system correctly? To do this, you need to understand the principle by which fresh air enters the room, mixes and exits. Good ventilation in the steam bath should carry out a complete exchange of air in the steam room at least three times per hour.

To meet the parameters of the steam room with sanitary standards, we will consider in detail the design of the ventilation system.

In the most careful way, it is necessary to calculate the system that circulates the flows in the steam room. High-quality ventilation of the steam room of the bath will allow you to take procedures without fear of getting black, even if the stove is in the steam room.

It is possible to ensure the correct circulation of flows in several ways. If you decide with your own hands, then you need to explore all these options and choose the most suitable for you.

Scheme No. 1

Instructions for the location of the ventilation holes:

1. we place the entrance hole behind the stove at a height of about 50 cm from the clean floor;
2. we arrange the outlet on the opposite wall, it is slightly lower, about 30 cm from the floor;
3. Install an exhaust fan at the outlet.

Let's see how the system works in this variant:

1. cool flow enters through the inlet channel;
2. at the stove, the air heats up and rises;
3. cooling, the flow goes down and exits through the hood.

The air in the steam room with this variant of the location of the ventilation holes warms up evenly.

Important. The lower you place the outlet duct, the stronger the air circulation will be. You can adjust the flow with a fan.

Sometimes a variation of this scheme is used, where the output and input channels are located at the same level and only 20 cm from the floor. With this arrangement, the ventilation of the steam bath will only function well if there is an outlet fan.

Scheme No. 2

In this case, the air flow takes a different path:

1. cold streams enter the room through the inlet, which is located 30 cm from the floor on the wall opposite the stove;
2. they hit the stove, heat up and rise up;
3. the waste stream exits through the outlet channel, which is located above the inlet channel, at a distance of 30 cm from.

The disadvantage of this option is that cold streams go down the legs until they hit the stove and heat up.

Scheme No. 3

This option is used in those rooms of the steam room where there are technological gaps in the floors. Ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath according to this option is very effective for air exchange in the room and helps to keep the wooden flooring in perfect condition for a long time.

This scheme can also be organized in two variations. In both cases, the entrance is made behind the stove at a distance of 30 cm from the floor.

And the hoods are arranged as follows:

1. an exhaust hole is made under the floor, on the opposite wall from the stove, which rises outside the steam room to the roof of the structure;
2. an exhaust hole is made at the top, 30 cm below the ceiling, it also goes into the ventilation pipe.

Advice. Combining these two options will make it possible to control the flow of air in the steam room.
Do not forget to only equip the outlet channels with valves.

Scheme No. 4

Important. The use of this option is possible only with a constantly heating furnace, since the blower itself serves as an exhaust hood.
And the blower is able to absorb air and remove it from the bath only when the stove is running.

This scheme functions as follows:

1. the inlet channel is arranged 30 cm from the floor opposite the stove;
2. the role of the hood is performed by a firebox with a blower and a chimney;
3. the fresh stream heats up, rises to the ceiling, then cools and falls down, where it exits through the furnace.

Summary

Classical bath procedures have a beneficial effect on human health, especially if all the necessary norms and rules were observed during the construction of the bath. The work of ventilation inside the steam room should be aimed at a constant outflow of the spent portion of air and the inflow of a fresh portion.

Air can enter the steam room through vents, half-open doors, or maybe through special vents. It is better to organize the outflow by force. The price of exhaust fans is not very high, and the costs will be justified by the fact that the organization of air exchange in the steam room will be at the highest level.

Using the right air circulation scheme will help you make the atmosphere in the steam room healthy, and washing in the bath is a welcome procedure for your family. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

A bathhouse on the site is an extremely useful structure: to sit with friends and improve the body. But for the effect to be maximum, you need good ventilation in the steam room.

If this moment is missed during construction, both the well-being of visitors to the bath and the integrity of the building may suffer.

Let's try to understand the principles of ventilation, as well as how to properly equip forced ventilation in the sauna.

The ventilation of any living space must be organized correctly, and with regard to the bath, this is even more important. This room is characterized by high humidity and sudden changes in temperature. If the air exchange is not balanced, then a bath built from natural wood will need serious repairs in a couple of years.

In addition, without ventilation in the steam room there will be an extremely unpleasant and even health-threatening microclimate: heavy air, mold, unpleasant odors, etc. Natural ventilation is considered optimal for a Russian bath, the organization of which does not require large expenditures or complex building skills.

Image gallery

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Detailed and interesting information about the principles of steam room ventilation is set out here:

Undoubtedly, ventilation in the bath is necessary. Only under the condition of proper air exchange, bathing procedures will really bring real benefits to the health of visitors, and building owners will be relieved of additional costs for mold control and maintenance.

During the construction and repair of baths, attention is paid primarily to structural materials, stoves, insulation and waterproofing. It is assumed that natural air circulation will be sufficient for high-quality ventilation of the premises in the bath. But this is absolutely not the case, and if you approach the matter superficially, you can face serious problems.

Peculiarities

Ventilation in the bath can be done in various ways.

Depends on her presence:

• distribution of heat flows inside;
• comfort and safety of washable;
• period of operation of the building.

Water and steam are continuously concentrated there, the tree actively absorbs them. Even if you dry the building periodically, without establishing a constant movement of air, the effect will not be strong enough. In order to avoid dampness, it is required to create a pair of ventilation windows - one serves to bring in clean air from the outside, and the other helps to exit the heated one, which has absorbed a lot of water. Choosing the location of the openings, they change areas that are especially intensively ventilated. The use of a pair of outlets in the steam room and dressing room sometimes improves the orientation of the air flow in the required direction.

Of course, the size of each window and the ability to adjust the clearance are of great importance. They put valves that open fully or partially. The calculation of the volume of ventilation openings is repelled, first of all, from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath rooms. If you make them too large, mold will never appear on the floor and in the sink, but the steam room will heat up for a very long time, and an unusually large amount of fuel or electrical energy will be consumed. Too narrow windows will not allow the air inside to cool or become dry.

All deviations from normal parameters are strictly unacceptable, which allow you to exclude the occurrence of powerful temperature changes - this not only creates discomfort, but can also provoke health problems. It is impossible to completely eliminate the difference in the temperature of the flows; it is only necessary to limit their magnitude. Normal ventilation systems are formed during the construction of the bath, while making channels and preparing openings. Windows are mounted only after the decorative cladding of the building has been completed. Therefore, you will have to enter information about the arrangement of ventilation ducts into the bath project.

In most cases, the ventilation openings are made strictly the same. The outlet can be made larger than the inlet, but according to safety rules, it cannot be smaller than the first. For the same reasons, sometimes they resort to paired exit windows. As control elements, it is worth using not doors, but valves, when closing which it is impossible to preserve the gaps. When the steam room is heated for the first time, the valves are closed 100% until the air reaches the desired temperature.

The use of elements with controlled position is also useful because the amount of air flow must be adjusted according to the season. When there are negative temperatures outside, even a very small trickle of air brings a lot of cold. Therefore, you should not open the ventilation windows completely. The cross sections of such windows should average 24 square meters. cm per 1 cu. m of internal volume. But these are only preliminary figures, and if in doubt about the result obtained, it is worth contacting qualified heat engineers for calculations.

It is categorically impossible to place ventilation windows at the same height or even directly opposite each other, since this will not allow all the air in the bath to be warmed up sufficiently. In addition, such a design will not allow the air masses to be evenly mixed, which means that it will be necessary to thoroughly calculate the accuracy of the location of the ventilation elements. Exhaust windows are recommended to be placed just below the ceiling, because the air immediately rushes up after heating.

Types of ventilation systems

The ventilation device in the bath varies according to the design of the room and its total volume. Natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside. In order for it to work efficiently, the air inlet is organized near the stove, at a level of 25-35 cm from the floor. The outlet is made on opposite walls about 15-25 cm below the ceiling. But it is important to consider that such a scheme is not good enough for steam rooms, since it is relatively cold down there, and always hot upstairs.

The natural movement of air in such a situation is too difficult to organize, you will have to very carefully and accurately arrange the components of the ventilation system. A forced circuit does not always require the use of electronic control systems, with complex panels and so on. There are simpler options when ventilation windows, placed in a special way, are complemented by an exhaust fan. The combination of such components is especially effective when the bath is located inside the house, the windows are not placed inside the outer wall, but are connected to the exits by a long ventilation box. Duct fans must be selected very carefully, because the conditions for their operation in baths differ from the usual parameters.

The peculiarity of such devices lies in the increased waterproofing of electrical circuits and main mechanical parts, in adaptation to work at high temperatures without consequences for technology. The state of supply ventilation and its arrangement in each room is adapted to individual characteristics and to the type of bath. It follows that the time spent on calculations and thinking through the project is not wasted - it will save a lot of money and time, get the best result sooner.

As already known, the bulk of the projects involve the location of the introductory windows near the furnaces at 0.25-0.35 m from the floor. With this design, the stove transfers heat to the air coming from outside, and a flow occurs that moves in the direction of the hood. Having overcome the entire distance, hot and street flows eventually cover the entire volume of the steam room, and the area where the upper shelf is located is heated the most.

In the second option, by installing an exhaust fan, it is possible to mount the inlet and outlet openings on the same wall. The air flow is directed first in the direction of the heating device. Having received a thermal impulse, it begins to rise towards the ceiling and moves in a wide arc that covers the entire room. This approach will be effective if the bath is built into the house and has only one outer wall, while there is no need to arrange a ventilation duct.

If a bath with a leaking floor is created, the introductory window is placed in the same place as in the first case., right next to the oven. When the heated air gives off heat in the upper lobe of the steam room, it cools and descends to the floor, leaving through the holes in the flooring. This technique improves the evaporation of water accumulating below and allows you to delay the failure of the wooden floor. The hood is placed either in the next room, or in isolated channels that do not allow air to return to the steam room. The complexity of the flow path makes the use of a fan mandatory. This option is used very rarely, since it is not easy to calculate everything exactly, it is not easy to foresee the details properly.

Another type provides for a continuously operating furnace, the blower hole of which replaces the hood. For the inflow, a window is made under the shelf opposite the furnace itself and at the same level. Cold air displaces the heated mass upwards, and when the heat-releasing parts of the flow descend, they go into the blower channel. There are even more complex systems when a pair of supply and a pair of outlet ventilation windows are placed (always with a forced circulation type). It is quite difficult to adjust complicated complexes, but their effectiveness is higher than in the simplest cases.

The Bastu system is the placement of air inlets(with adjustable valves) behind or below the oven. The organization of vents under the stove is not required, although it is highly desirable. Through these openings, air from the underground part of the bath enters the room, which is connected to the external atmosphere by the foundation vents. When a bath is made in a previously finished room, you need to choose a room with a pair of external walls; when preparing the basement, choose an angle that meets the same requirements. The dimensions of the inlet and outlet are calculated according to the general rules.

How to do it right?

Installation of ventilation implies that when the pipe is brought out, it is protected from the penetration of snow, dirt, rain and melt water. When this does not work out, you can organize a ventilation duct or direct the pipe up, passing it through the ceiling and roof. In the latter case, the channel is covered with an umbrella to prevent the penetration of the same precipitation and falling leaves. To arrange high-level ventilation means to ventilate and dry all rooms, structural parts of walls, floors, attics and under-roof spaces.

It is not difficult to find a step-by-step guide for installing ventilation in a bath, however, the simplest option is the use of asbestos-cement pipes and gratings, selected according to the diameter of the channel. If we talk about the technical design, the use of supply valves is recognized as the most effective and convenient design in frame-type walls. First, the valve is disassembled and circled on the wall with a circle marker where future ventilation ducts will pass. To obtain holes in the skin, a drill is used, and large-diameter drills are taken, into which a jigsaw knife can easily pass.

• using the jigsaw itself, cut out a circle;
• remove wooden parts;
• take out the insulation and vapor barrier material;
• using a long drill, they pierce the outer skin (this must be done in order to avoid mistakes when placing the outer lobe of the valve);
• mark a suitable hole outside and make it using long drills;
• saw off valve tubes along the thickness of the wall.

Then you need to mount the tube in the hole with your own hands and fix the inner segment of the valve with self-tapping screws, only after which you can put the outer part of the product. Installation of valves is recommended in the washing department and in the dressing room.

When preparing a new building, it is imperative to calculate both the size of the openings and the required fan power. It is possible to establish ventilation even when it was not originally done. A common mistake is to rely on burst ventilation and the use of stove draft to dry the air. In principle, this scheme works, but it has serious drawbacks. So, when opening windows and doors, instead of lowering the temperature, steam is released into adjacent rooms.

It does not go outside, but turns into condensate. The heating of the air is reduced only for a short time, and very soon it becomes uncomfortable again in the bath. To use the effect of stove draft for ventilation, holes are needed, but they should be made only at the bottom. This will ensure the flow of air from neighboring rooms, where fresh portions will come from outside. The damper and the doors of the furnace itself help to adjust the ventilation, to increase the flow they are opened to the limit, and to weaken them they are partially covered (to avoid the ingress of carbon monoxide).

A simple calculation can only be made with respect to forced ventilation, and the natural flow of air is much more complicated and subject to a number of different factors. Among them, special attention should be paid to the strength and direction of the wind that blows in a particular area. If the outlet is on the side from which strong winds are directed, this can lead to the inflow of the supply mass into it (the so-called backdraft effect or its overturning).

Prevention of such a negative phenomenon seems simple - it is the lengthening of the channels output in the right direction or the use of turns in them. But each turn complicates the work and reduces the speed of exit or entry of air. The solution would be to orient the inlet to the side where the wind mostly blows, while placing the outlet on the opposite side or on the roof (with a tall chimney).

Do not use a ventilation duct in a block wall, in such cases, mount it on the inner wall and partition. According to experts, the best air duct is the one built from galvanized pipes. Plastic structures can be mounted with care, carefully evaluating the temperature range allowed for them. The gap from the pipe to the walls of the hole is filled with mineral wool or more modern heaters. Mounting foam helps to eliminate gaps at the inlet and outlet.

The method of fastening the ventilation grilles is selected according to the material that serves as the base. Checking the quality of ventilation is very easy - a fire or a smoking object is brought to the hole. This will additionally find out how fast the air is moving. Most often, only an extractor hood is placed in the dressing room, supplemented by a fan.

When the furnace firebox is brought into the dressing room, it is necessary to make a special ventilation channel based on galvanized steel, passed under the finishing floors and supplying air directly to the furnace door. It is necessary to create a channel before the finishing floor is laid. One edge of the pipe is inserted into the hole and fixed in it with mounting foam, sealed with a grate. An adjustable plug is installed on the edge suitable for the furnace.

Good ventilation is one that avoids condensation on the ceiling surface. As for the subfloor, work on it begins with the preparation of a cement screed, which is tilted towards the sewer. The foundation is equipped with a pair of holes (in opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other). Air flows should go under the floor along the most intricate trajectories. The holes are closed with valves, which will allow you to adjust the rate of movement of the jet according to the current season.

In the bath, which was originally built without floor ventilation, it is required to drill a concrete base down to the ground. This will prove to be a decent replacement for full drainage when there is no desire to work on installing drain pipes. The ventilated floor must be decorated with jumpers, which are pipes or a wooden beam with a section of 11x6 or 15x8 cm. The logs are covered with processed and well-polished oak boards.

How to choose?

In the Russian bath, unlike the usual washing, it is necessary to provide with the help of ventilation the following conditions:

• temperature in the steam room - from 50 to 60 degrees;
• relative humidity - not lower than 70 and not higher than 90%;
• very fast drying of any wooden surface after washing;
• operational decrease in humidity while excluding drafts and opening doors;
• the same air quality in the steam room, as well as in the relaxation room, regardless of the season;
• preservation of all the traditional properties of the Russian bath.

No ventilation devices will help escape carbon monoxide if there is a constant supply. You will have to continuously monitor the completeness of the combustion of firewood, and only after the attenuation of all the coals, close the chimney. The organization of air flow in a chopped log bath occurs through the crowns of the walls.

This approach, for obvious reasons, is not suitable for a brick building. When the walls are sheathed with boards or clapboard, you will definitely need to use ventilation holes, otherwise the negative effect of dampness will be excessively strong. In most cases, a hole of 200x200 mm will be enough to bring pipes outside. The choice of plastic or metal should be made in accordance with the specific project and operating conditions of the ventilation system.

A bath of foam blocks must be ventilated inside the walls. The layers of waterproofing and cladding are separated by a ventilation gap, for external cladding it is 40-50 mm, and inside the bath - 30-40 mm. A typical design involves the use of battens, which already help hold the wall cladding. In addition to in-wall ventilation, all rooms are equipped with an air intake at the bottom (most often behind stoves) and an outlet (near the ceiling). The advantage of an active air freshening system is that it can be placed anywhere.

In most cases, baths made of foam blocks are ventilated in a salvo way, that is, at the same time opening the front door and the window most distant from it. Only a professional calculation is guaranteed to make it possible to find out whether artificial ventilation is needed or whether the natural circulation of air masses is enough.

Accessories and materials

A fan heater for a bath must have a certain level of thermal protection (not lower than IP44), its body is always made of heat-resistant materials. Modern devices have very high power and operate almost silently, the volume is no more than 35 dB.

As ventilation holes in attics, you can use:

• special windows;
• aerators;
• spotlights.

State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential areas, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures by small children, the elderly or large people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bath cools down on its own. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.

Prices for ventilation valves

ventilation valves

What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation

Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not quite correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / exhaust air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

Prices for supply and exhaust ventilation

air handling unit

General rules for ventilation in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.

Photo - furnace firebox and open door for ventilation of the room

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

1. For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
2. For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steamed in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.

In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But that's not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.

One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.

And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.

Prices for air outlets

PVC air outlet

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific location of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.

We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We will tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.

Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have a reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

Forced ventilation - elements

The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to calculate forced ventilation in the bath and what is it like? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article. In the same place - detailed step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation and advice from professionals.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air to enter through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or the furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. There is no internal and external wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Also, the inlet air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.

Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of external and internal walls, consider how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.

Step 3 Make holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use not round pipes, but rectangular ones, they take up less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.

Scotch metallized

Step 4 Lay foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.

The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration of atmospheric moisture to wooden structures.

When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

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heat resistant fan

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.

Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.

Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.

Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the timber.

Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.

Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.

Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Wood hole drill prices

hole drill for wood

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Bath ventilation with heating

A rather original way of arranging ventilation, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.

The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and is fed into the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas over + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values ​​should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will get into the cold room, no matter what the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

1. Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. What can happen next - no need to explain.

   

2. Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature in different ways depending on environmental factors. Increased humidity "increases" the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values ​​​​within a few minutes.

   

3. Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the microclimate in the room. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.

   

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

1. Ease of execution. There is no need to make special products in the log house. Any additional hole in a wooden wall does not improve its performance, to put it mildly. If mistakes were made during the period of making the vents and installing decorative gratings, then the risks of moisture getting onto the crowns of the log house increase. Moisture will dry out for a very long time, and prolonged stay of wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.

   

2. The ability to control the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by the damper and the stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the damper and the furnace door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the damper closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate in the steam room stabilizes, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.

   

   Stove with gate - photo

3. Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bath is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The exhaust is still the chimney.

   

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
2. The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget steam room, the best option is to ventilate the stove and ventilate

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Solve questions with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

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bath fan

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

1. Firstly, it is much more physically difficult to make holes in an already finished building.

   

   Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process.

2. Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet air. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlats of the truss system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns, and only metal bars or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.

   

3. Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after a “meeting” with a dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after trying to cut through the metal.

   

4. Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, with a hacksaw as well, but you won’t wish the enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to poke the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the bath wall or an increase in its size? Especially if you have already made holes in the outer and inner skin and bought ventilation grilles under its “planned” dimensions. "Meeting" with a metal dowel is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

There are a few general rules for all natural ventilation products. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

Air inlet behind the furnace - diagram

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close as possible to each other along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

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duct

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the grill on the outside of the bath

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mineral wool

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioner