How is the balcony insulated from the inside. Do-it-yourself balcony insulation

The loggia could well be called an additional room in the apartment, but, unfortunately, many use it only in the summer, since it initially does not have insulation, and radiators are not brought there.

Modern method of insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the walls with the help of special equipment, and profile companies are engaged in such insulation.

However, before inviting them to spray such a heater, the walls must be prepared by making a crate on them. It will be a kind of frame for a sprayed and expanding heat insulator, as well as for fixing a decorative finishing material.

The advantage of this method of insulation is that, when sprayed, the material, expanding, closes all the cracks, making the surface absolutely not blown through, without cold bridges. Polyurethane foam covers not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor.

Video - How polyurethane foam is sprayed

Design solutions for the design of the loggia

I would like to show several options. Perhaps, having started the process of turning a cold room into a usable area, someone will be inspired by one of the ideas developed by the designers.

In this case, a standard loggia with a small footage is presented, transformed into a cozy lounge. Here you can retire with a book or laptop and delve into reading. If a large family lives in an apartment, usually each of its members does what they love, and sometimes it is difficult to find a cozy place to sit in silence. An insulated loggia will be an ideal option for this.

In such a room, you can place a small TV and enjoy your favorite programs or sit with needlework, comfortably picking up your legs on a comfortable chair. The main thing is that extra space appears, which can serve all family members in turn for doing what they love.

The original version - the loggia turns into a stylish bar

This option is suitable for apartments in which the door to the loggia is arranged in the kitchen. In this case, it can become a dining room, especially since most of the kitchens in the apartments are very small.

If apartment owners often like to hold parties, the loggia window sill can easily replace the bar counter.

You can also have a romantic dinner here. Evening city, which offers a wonderful view, and pleasant summer air will create the necessary mood for this. In winter, it is pleasant to sit at the counter, sipping coffee and looking at the opening wide panorama outside the window.

Glass sliding doors installed between the kitchen and the loggia will help to combine or delimit the premises, depending on the need.

In this version, it was combined with the living room, and the wall, which previously served as a separating element between the two rooms, became a unifying one, as it was transformed into a comfortable table.

The area of ​​the former loggia in this layout can be used as an office with a comfortable desk, as well as hobbies when you don’t want someone to interfere.

And, of course, the combination of the loggia and the room will increase the total space by opening a large window. The room will be more illuminated, which will help save on electricity.

Additional living space can be adapted to various activities, for example, to make a winter garden on the loggia, a workshop or a computer room. Therefore, if the apartment is equipped with a loggia, but it has not yet been insulated, you need to urgently get down to business and expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour home due to the unused functional premises.

Video - How the loggia is insulated

Do not know how to insulate a balcony in order to spend minimal money and get an excellent result? Then this review is for you, it describes simple options for carrying out work that anyone can do. If everything is done correctly, then your balcony will be warm even in the most severe frosts.

Preparatory part of the work

First of all, you need to prepare the room for insulation.

At this stage, several important activities are performed:

• The space is freed from all unnecessary. It is best if the balcony is completely empty, then nothing will interfere with the work. If there is an old finish, it should be removed in advance;
• All cracks and voids are sealed. This is a very important part of the work, since a lot of heat is lost through loose joints. Small gaps are sealed with weatherproof sealants. Larger joints are best filled with mounting foam, it will not only prevent moisture from entering, but will also serve as an additional heat insulator;

• The floor and, if necessary, the walls are waterproofed. In new buildings, this part of the work may not be required, but if your balcony is damp, then extra protection will not hurt. The easiest way is to use a special mastic based on bitumen, which is applied in a thick layer on the floor and the adjoining walls to a height of 20-30 cm. The composition dries for about a day, at this time you can’t walk on the surface;

• Cracks and irregularities in the ceiling and walls are sealed with cement mortar. The smoother the base, the easier it will be for you to work. There is no need for special accuracy, the main thing is to repair all the bumps and level the surface.

Floor insulation

Considering the question of how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside, we will begin with this part of the structure. Work can be carried out in two ways: by laying insulation between the lags and by pouring the screed. I'll talk about both options, and you choose the one that best suits your situation.

Let's start with the option of warming the lags, the instructions for doing the work with your own hands look like this:

• The following materials are required for work: log block, waterproofing for the base, insulation, vapor barrier and top coat. As a heater, I recommend using foam, its price is low, but the quality is quite suitable for such work. There will be no load on the material, so you can choose sheets with a low density;

• Waterproofing material is laid on the floor. Even if you applied a coating of mastic, an extra barrier to moisture does not hurt. The film should go on the surface of the walls by 20-30 cm, and at the joints have overlaps of at least 100 mm. For additional reliability, I advise all connections with ordinary tape;

• Logs are stacked. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the insulation so that you do not get waste, usually it is 50-60 cm. As for the height, it should be no less than the thickness of the insulation, I recommend laying a layer of 10-15 centimeters to reliably protect cold surface. After placing the elements, all joints are filled with mounting foam, it serves as both a heater and a fastener;

• Insulation is placed between the beams. If you have several layers of material, then the joints between the sheets, if any, should not match. Try to lay the foam as tightly as possible so that there are fewer voids and cracks on the surface;

• All gaps between foam sheets and beams are filled with foam. This allows you to achieve the best quality of insulation. The foam is carefully applied wherever necessary, after 2-3 hours after it dries, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

• Attaching the flooring. Under it, you can lay a vapor barrier, or you can immediately lay a board or sheet materials. If the base is waterproofed reliably, then in the additional protective layer, by and large, there is no point.

Let's consider the second option.

Insulation of the floor in this case is done in a completely different way:

• All necessary materials are purchased. For simplicity and clarity, all information is presented in the table;

Material	Selection Guide
insulation	It is best to use Teploplex insulation (it is also called Technoflex, Teploflex, Penoplex, etc.). It has a very high density and has better heat retention than foam. High-density foam can also be used, but is still less effective.
Waterproofing	Any suitable material of this type is used. It is necessary to lay the film both under the insulation and on top of it.
Reinforcing mesh	To make the screed durable, it is worth laying a special metal mesh. Also purchase beacons for pouring the screed, you can take both special elements and a metal profile for drywall
Screed mortar	The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made mixture in bags, which is simply diluted with water before use.

To make the screed even more reliable, use a special damper tape. It is laid along the perimeter and allows you to create a deformation seam.

• Laying down waterproofing film. It is placed with overlaps on the walls, and overlaps of 10 cm are made on the joints;
• Insulation sheets are laid on top. They need to be placed as tightly as possible to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the surface. Extruded polystyrene foam is more convenient than polystyrene foam, since it has grooves at the ends that allow you to align the sheets very accurately;

• The film is laid, and on top of it the grid. Everything is simple here, first the surface is waterproofed, and then a mesh is placed on it. To make the surface durable, make laps of 5 cm at the joints of the mesh;
• Beacons are attached, and the screed is poured. The beacons are leveled and fixed to the same solution that will be used when pouring the screed. After that, you need to wait at least 12 hours, after which the solution is poured. Everything is easy here: it is evenly distributed over the surface and leveled using a rule or a flat wooden slat.

If you will make a warm floor on the balcony, then after laying the insulation, it is better to use a material with a reflective layer instead of a film. A warm floor system is placed on top of it, after which beacons are set up and a screed is poured. The layer thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure strength.

Ceiling insulation

This part of the structure can also be thermally insulated in two ways: with and without a frame.

To begin with, we will analyze the process of insulation along the crate:

• Gathering the necessary materials. To work, you need a wooden block, insulation, polyurethane foam and finishing material. The height of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• A crate is being built on the ceiling. The fastening of the elements is carried out using fast mounting dowels of the appropriate length. In order to set the structure strictly according to the level, slats or pieces of the board are placed under the bars. The installation process itself is simple: holes are drilled in 50 cm increments, after which dowels are inserted and expansion screws are hammered;

• Insulation is laid in the crate. Styrofoam or extruded boards are cut exactly to size so that the elements stay in the structure without additional fixation. Mineral wool can also be used, in which case it is better to choose products of medium density;

• All cracks are sealed with foam. All voids are filled with the composition so that the cold cannot penetrate through the cracks. Do not worry about accuracy, all excess can be cut off with a construction knife after the composition has solidified;

• The finish is fixed last.. The frame can be sheathed with plastic panels, wood, plywood or moisture-resistant drywall. It all depends on what kind of interior was conceived, and what you want to see in the end.

Now let's figure out how the ceiling is insulated without a frame:

• First of all, the surface of the ceiling is prepared. At this stage, you need to clean the base from dust and dirt. If there are gaps at the joints of the plates, then it is best to seal them with foam. The surface is also treated with a strengthening primer, it will improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition and provide more reliable fixation of the insulation;
• A special adhesive composition is applied to Penoplex. Used glue in cylinders, which is reliable and easy to apply. It is not necessary to apply it continuously - distribute a little composition around the perimeter and in the middle. An example is shown in the photo below;

• The sheet is glued to the ceiling. Everything is simple here: the element is located where it is needed, and carefully pressed against the surface. Usually it is worth holding the sheet for 20-30 seconds, after which it will already hold normally, and you can continue to work and attach the next fragment;

• For reliability, the material is additionally fixed with dowels.. Special fasteners with a wide clamping washer are used . Fungi are attached according to this scheme: two elements at the seams and one in the middle, so the consumption will be small, and the reliability of installation will not suffer. Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled under the dowels, the layout and the finished result can be seen in the picture below;

• Cracks and joints are foaming. Everything is clear here: if necessary, the junctions to the walls and the joints of the sheets are sealed with mounting foam. It is applied wherever needed. After drying, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

• Finishing is attached last.. Personally, the stretch ceiling seems to me the most practical solution - it costs a little now, the craftsmen will come and install it in a couple of hours. If you want to attach the trim to the crate, then the bar will have to be nailed to the ceiling through the insulation.

Wall insulation

Considering the question of how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside, one cannot help but talk about the walls. They need to be insulated very carefully, especially those surfaces that go outside (most often this is the space under the window and one or two side walls).

Wall insulation technology is as follows:

• Materials are prepared first.. We need a bar for the frame, insulation, and a waterproofing membrane. To improve the effect, it is possible to attach a polyethylene foam material with a reflective layer called Penofol over the insulation;

• A waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the outer walls. It does not need to be fixed to the walls adjacent to the living quarters, since cold air does not flow from there, which can cause condensation. The material can be fixed only at the top and glue the joints. Its final fastening will occur during the installation of the crate;

• A bar is attached to the surface. Its height should be the same as the thickness of the insulation. Thinner material can be attached to the inner walls, and it is advisable to lay at least 10 cm on the outer walls in order to create a reliable barrier to cold. Accordingly, under the window, the crate is indented from the base, and on the remaining walls it can be nailed with dowels directly to the surface;

• In the resulting structure, a heater is laid. Everything is simple here: polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is cut into pieces of the required size and neatly placed in the crate. There is no point in adding it further. It is important to remember that if you are laying the material in two layers, then the joints should not match;

Do not use mineral wool for work. It is both more expensive and less resistant to temperature and humidity changes that often occur on balconies.

• All joints are filled with mounting foam. Apply foam in all the cracks that you find, the composition will not be superfluous and will help to achieve the best result when insulating a balcony or loggia. The advantage of foam is that it can fill both small gaps and voids up to 10 cm in size, which is especially important on balconies of complex shapes;

• Reflective material is attached on top of the insulation. This stage is optional, but I recommend that you close at least the outer walls in this way, and preferably all surfaces. The material is carefully straightened and fixed with a construction stapler or self-tapping screws. To ensure the best effect, the joints are glued with special foil tape;

• A 20 mm thick counter-lattice is attached on top of the Penofol and a finishing material is attached. Everything is simple here: the frame is nailed over the main supporting structure. Any finish you choose is attached to it - from lining and PVC panels to drywall or other sheet materials.

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

• self-insulation (personal experience)
• . The most useful from youtube
• On the example of Moscow

The choice of heat insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:

• Stone;
• slag;
• Glass.

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed into the room. This principle allows heat to be reflected off the aluminum cladding and returned to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.

Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before buying. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
• An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.

When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

If you plan to use the space in winter, in this case, choose a thickness of 50 mm. Density is determined by further coating - a value of 25 kg / cu is suitable for putty. m.

1. Styrofoam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.

Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.

Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out by specialists, one day is enough for installation work, it also does not take much time to dry completely.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round, you must:

1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.

The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the most minor surface cracks that may not be visible visually.

4. Thermal insulation layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, foam plastic, polyethylene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil is directed into the room. Under this condition, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.

A detailed description of each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony decoration

Purposes of creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.

To create an interior balcony, you can choose from various finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.

Video

1. The result of warming the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.

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How to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with my own hands - I had to ask myself such a question when the idea came to my mind to turn our ownerless balcony into a home one. As it turned out, sewing in a room that is a nursery is not at all comfortable for me. I wanted solitude and silence in order to be completely focused on work, and I also interfered with children's study and recreation.

In this article I will talk about how we carried out repairs to turn our cold and ventilated loggia into a living room, or rather into my office, and at what price it cost us. And I will also give valuable advice that will help you avoid mistakes and save your nerves and money)

• Balcony window replacement
• Balcony (loggia) plastering
• Costings. How much money did it take us to insulate the balcony (loggia)
• A few tips for those who are going to insulate the balcony with their own hands

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

What I had to face and what our loggia looked like before insulation

When I told my friends about my idea, at first everyone laughed at me. They began to talk about how little space there was, and they were frightened by the cold of the unheated room - after all, our loggia was essentially an outdoor space. In order for you to imagine what I had to face, I am attaching a plan of the balcony. I had to turn three and a half squares of usable area into a full-fledged study, where my two sewing machines with a table, a cutting table, and an ironing board could fit.

The first window with a balcony door and access to the kitchen. This wall is the main one - it is already warm, so you can not sheathe it. Subsequently, we refused to cover it with plaster, since the brick itself looks quite interesting in the interior. We only cleaned its surface with a sandpaper from dirt.

The second window is located on the wall of the loggia; it required a complete replacement and touched the stained-glass windows. The photo was taken after the installation of a new double-glazed window.

Balcony window replacement

The first thing my story with a balcony began with was the replacement of an existing double-glazed window. When we moved into our new building, we saw that on the loggia (unlike other rooms) the developer installed the windows in one layer of glass. Of course, it was a summer version, they let the cold through with might and main. There was no talk of replacing the double-glazed window, because I also wanted to change the shape of the frame, make an opening sash of other sizes. I don’t know how the project of our house was made, but the architect obviously did not try for the convenience of the residents. Therefore, first of all, I found a company that made a solid two-chamber window according to our sizes. As stated by the window makers, such a window provides 25% more heat retention in the room than the one that was from the developer.

When ordering a new window, there was one small fad that significantly increased the amount of our expenses - this is lamination. That is, from the street side, all the window frames of our house are dark burgundy, wood-like. Therefore, we also had to fit in with the overall picture and make a window in the overall color scheme. For lamination, companies involved in the manufacture of windows ask from 20% of the total cost.

The price for a window measuring 2580 * 1520 cm with a burgundy frame, with installation and delivery, amounted to 20,700 rubles. And we profitably sold the dismantled old window to the Avito website.

Important (!)- if you are going to insulate the balcony and increase the ceiling after installing the window, then tell the window makers about it. They will put extensions on the top of the window so that later your extended ceiling does not close the shutters and you can hang curtains.

Loggia heating, which method to choose

The loggia usually has walls in one layer of bricks, the worst option is a corrugated balcony. Therefore, in order to feel comfortable in this room during the cold season, a heater is needed.

There are two options for how to make the loggia warm. The first is to open the balcony door so that it heats up at the expense of the adjoining room. The second is to install electric "warm" floors or buy oil radiators.

I will say right away from our experience that one heater was not enough for us, and we decided to install a warm floor. Despite the fact that the walls of our loggia were insulated, it was cold from the neighbors above and below - after all, their balconies remained uninsulated.

The choice of material for warming the loggia (balcony)

At the very beginning, my husband was advised to do the insulation of the balcony with his own hands, in general, he is handy with me - he can put a laminate and glue the tiles. But in the case of the balcony, I did not have time to wait until he finds free time, here I needed the work of a professional, since correcting mistakes would cost more. So we found a master who is engaged in this business and watched his work from the side. I found him through Avito, which I first of all paid attention to - real photos and accommodation in our area (so that he has the opportunity to go for lunch, I don’t spend a lot of time).

I wanted not just to panel the balcony, but to make walls that could later be wallpapered, so we chose drywall for the interior cladding. Finding a good specialist who would work with drywall and mount the wiring (after all, I still needed sockets and lighting) turned out to be not an easy task. But I was lucky and found a good specialist who promised me to bring my idea to life! On his advice, after taking all the measurements, we purchased for the insulation of our loggia:

• drywall - for walls and ceilings
• plywood - for the floor
• technonicol rocklite - for flooring
• technonikol technoplex - for walls and ceilings
• isolar - reflective metallized substrate
• bars

The most important thing on this list is insulation. It is due to him that you get a full-fledged living room. We have chosen two types of insulation:

The first type, for floor insulation, is technonicol rocklite. It is a rectangular slab, pressed from basalt fibers, in the common people it is called mineral wool. Do not be afraid that it can have an adverse effect on the air in the room (many write about harmful fumes, etc.), on the contrary, due to the ability to pass moisture, and not retain it, it is widely used for warming damp rooms, where there is a possibility of mold and fungus . According to the TechnoNIKOL company, its plates do not burn and do not absorb moisture, therefore today they are recognized as the best heaters on the market. In order to cover the floors of the loggia with an area of ​​3.8 m2 in two layers, we needed 1 pack of technonicol rocklite, in which there were 12 slabs.

The second insulation we used is technoplex technoplex for interior wall cladding. As I mentioned above, the developer built our loggia in one layer of brick, due to this, it blew from every corner. In addition, uncomfortable stained-glass windows were installed in the loggia on the sides of the window, which gave the house a businesslike look from the outside, and served as a source of constant drafts and moisture for the residents inside. This type of insulation is made of nanographite, due to which it has an unsightly gray color. Although in terms of weight and appearance, it reminded me more of polystyrene, but despite its lightness, it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. After our balcony stopped looking like a bamboo hut, I started thinking about how to use these magic tiles to make soundproofing from neighbors in the living room)

The third type of insulation- it rather goes as an addition to the first two, it metallized substrate isolon or isolar. We all know that a shiny surface reflects well. It is this ability of the metallized surface of the substrate that allows you to redirect heat into the room, as if reflecting it and preventing it from escaping outside.

As a result, I can say that all the heaters coped with their tasks with a bang, they really keep warm, like a thermos. But at the same time, they allow excess moisture to pass through, preventing the formation of mold.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands step by step photo

1. We cleared the balcony of everything superfluous. Before the arrival of the master, we cleaned our balcony of rubbish and debris, a window had already been installed and heating radiators had been installed.

2. Patching the "holes" of stained-glass windows with the help of technonicol technoplex insulation boards. This did not affect the exterior of the house, but for us the problem of eternal drafts was solved. The slabs were laid in two layers, all the cracks were filled with mounting foam.

Cutting the plates after taking measurements is carried out using a jigsaw and a hacksaw for metal.

3. Bringing electrical wiring to the balcony. In my workshop, it was planned to install three outlets for sewing machines and a laptop, the wires were pulled from the nearest outlet from the kitchen.

4. Floor insulation with beams and technonicol rocklite insulation (mineral wool). According to the reviews of our master, he most of all likes to work with this type of insulation. Since when placed between the bars, it expands on its own and does not leave any gaps, which means it does not require the use of mounting foam.

Although basalt wool and glass wool are two different things, I still played it safe and diligently closed the door to the balcony while he laid the floors. And then for an hour I vacuumed all the walls. Of course, our master laughed for a long time when he saw me walking in a medical mask and gloves. For me, any mention of glass wool is a fear from childhood, when we ran around a construction site and accidentally touched glass wool, any of us got a burn, after which it itched and burned for a long time.

A frame or so-called formwork for the future floor and walls is first assembled from wooden bars. Between themselves, the rails are fastened with metal corners using dowels and a screwdriver.

If the frame is laid on concrete, then first, holes are drilled on the concrete floor at the attachment points using an impact drill. Then, dowels are inserted into the wooden logs, applied to the attachment points and the screws are driven in with a hammer.

Mineral wool mats can be laid immediately on a concrete screed, in a wooden frame between the joists. It does not shrink at all, therefore it is used even on surfaces with high traffic.

To give the floor additional thermal insulation properties - on top of the first layer of basalt wool insulation, you can build a second frame of the crate and lay another layer of rocklite technonicol in the same way. In this case, wooden bars are fastened with a screwdriver to self-tapping screws.

Next, an isolar layer is used - this is a metallized substrate that reflects heat and protects against moisture, and is widely used to create a warm balcony (loggia). After laying all the layers of building materials, we reached the same floor level as the room without thresholds and steps.

Important (!)- the metallized substrate is laid with the reflecting surface upwards.

5. Ceiling insulation with technoplex insulation. In our ceiling, two wires for ceiling lights were installed. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, electrical wiring was brought out under the wooden beams. I really like this method - it looks neat, without unnecessary wires. Electricians from have a lot to learn from the Bashkir masters)

6. Wall insulation with technoplex technoplex insulation.

The main difference between nanographite and basalt wool insulation is that it is not elastic. Therefore, when installing it into the crate, gaps remain, which then need to be filled with mounting foam.

After all the joints have been processed, a metallized isolar substrate is applied over the insulation. It is attached to the crate using a stapler and a special adhesive tape (connecting tape) - isospan.

After sheathing the entire surface with a metallized substrate, drywall sheets are attached to the wooden crate using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver from above.

Do-it-yourself plastering of a balcony (loggia)

After the balcony was completely sheathed with drywall sheets, including the ceiling, we had to plaster the walls. You can’t glue wallpaper on bare drywall, because its top layer consists of paper and can come off when wet. Additional surface treatment of sheets includes a primer and putty.

At this stage of work, our master left us, since he was only engaged in insulation, and the work of a plasterer as a painter was not part of his duties. We were faced with a choice - either to find a new employee, or to pick up a spatula ourselves. A significant role in the choice was played by the amount that the plasterers asked for - professionals for processing our small area.

Therefore, my friends, for the first time in my life I picked up a spatula and plastered my balcony myself (I posted a photo with the result a little lower). But I will say right away that I liked plastering, as it turned out, working with a gypsum mixture is not at all difficult, and if you are not particularly picky about your walls, feel free to pick up a trowel and master a new type of activity! Later (as experienced craftsmen scared me) after drying, nothing fell off, and the loggia became even warmer - after all, I responsibly covered all the cracks and joints.

So, to plaster a balcony lined with drywall sheets, I needed:

• gypsum plaster "Volma layer"
• deep penetration drywall primer
• serpyanka tape for joints
• putty knife
• container for diluting plaster
• drill with nozzle mixer for mixing the solution
• oilcloth to protect the surface from dirt (floor and brick wall)

1. First, I went over the walls with a primer to improve the adhesion to the top coat. Waited 40 minutes for it to dry completely.

2. I sealed all the joints on the drywall with tape - sickle. It forms a strong bond with the binder mixture, which is especially important at seams and corners.

3. Prepare the solution. I first diluted everything according to the instructions, and then mixed the plaster with water by eye. For the second time, you already know exactly what consistency the solution should be. I applied two coats of plaster. It took me four hours to get to work. I concluded that you can cope and learn how to work with a spatula even if you are a beginner. What happened to me you can judge from the photo. The color of the "Volma layer" plaster after drying becomes not white, but gray, so the ceiling had to be whitewashed with water-based paint.

How much money did it take us to insulate the balcony with our own hands

• Two-chamber window with lamination (assembly, installation) – 20.700
• Nails, switches, sockets, cable, polyurethane foam, sealant - 4.800
• Insulation, bars, drywall, plywood - 11.600
• Window sills, braids, laminate, wallpaper, lamps – 4.000
• Master's work - 10.000

Total for our loggia with an area of ​​3.43 sq.m. it took us 51.100 rubles. The amount of expenses depends on the size of the area to be insulated and what materials will be used for this. As you understand, insulating a balcony in Khrushchev will cost much less than insulating a large balcony with panoramic windows.

1. Mentally prepare for the fact that it will be necessary to allocate temporary space for building materials. All these heaters, drywall sheets and wooden blocks are impressive in size and occupied our entire entrance hall of 13 sq.m. It was especially hard for me with small children, who cannot be kept in place and I had to constantly make sure that they did not stumble and carry dirt around the apartment.

2. Separately, it is worth mentioning garbage and dust. Despite the fact that all the dirty work was carried out on the loggia, the builder still had to walk between the balcony and the hallway for materials and tools. Therefore, the entire floor was strewn with shavings and debris. Every time after his work, I had to carry out wet cleaning in the house with a rag and a vacuum cleaner. This is an important reason - why I quickly wanted to finish with the insulation of the loggia.

3. The amount that we were initially agreed on for the purchase of building materials was approximate. That is, in the process, you still had to buy something.

4. One person cannot do all the work for sure. There are two ways out: to find a company doing turnkey repairs, the prices of which start from 50 thousand rubles. Or, as we did, we separately looked for a master for each option. As a result, for the whole process of warming our loggia, we needed: specialists in the manufacture and installation of windows, a plumber, a master in warming and cladding balconies, a plasterer-painter. It turned out cheaper than ordering from the organization, but I also had to spend time searching.

5. Keep in mind, if you still decide to insulate the balcony with your own hands without the help of a specialist, then you should have the tool necessary for the job at hand. These are a jigsaw and files, a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a sealant gun, a puncher, a construction ruler with a level, a drywall assembly construction knife, a construction stapler.

6. Do not throw away checks, they may come in handy when repairs are completed and unused building materials remain. Within 14 days from the date of purchase, you can return them to the store and get your money back, provided that the package remains unopened.

7. It is better to make purchases in large chain stores. For example, Leroy Merlin gives buyers the opportunity to return an unused item for repair within 100 days after the purchase. I did not have any difficulty in returning the extra rolls of wallpaper, glue and cornices that did not fit in height.

Conclusion

I hope our experience helped you on how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands with a step-by-step photo. Many complain that after warming the loggia still remains cold. We specifically measured the temperature on the balcony, with minus outside. She remained as warm and comfortable as in the apartment.

Work on the insulation of the balcony is of course difficult and dirty. But how much joy I now have in my own workshop. I have my own little corner where I can work quietly without disturbing my loved ones, create in my personal space. So if you have an idea to make yourself an office, but there is no place in the apartment, pay attention to the balcony or loggia. Good luck everyone, bye!

Any purposeful year-round use of the balcony space involves its insulation, of course, if you do not use the balcony as a freezer in winter. An office or a "closet" for storing conservation, a winter garden or a place of secluded relaxation ... How to insulate a balcony with your own hands to implement your plan?

The sequence of actions for warming the balcony consists of the following steps:

• studying the condition of the balcony and drawing up an action plan
• reinforcing the parapet - creating a supporting structure,
• exterior finish,
• glazing,
• thermal insulation,
• sealing,
• fine finish.

Sequence planning

First things first, examine the condition of the balcony, both from the side of the street and from the side of the apartment. And it doesn’t matter that you have already visited this balcony hundreds of times - a new look at the balcony from the point of view of repair will allow you to see the previously invisible and explore the insulated surfaces.

Make a work plan. Let this be a preliminary plan, but it will allow you to decide on the purchase of the necessary materials, ordering double-glazed windows, etc.

When solving the problem of how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, you will definitely need information about the basic methods of insulation. Don't limit yourself to just this article. The more you know, the more different repair options will open up for you.

Important! The next step in your actions should be the "total eviction of the inhabitants" of the balcony. After all, usually an uninsulated balcony is a place to store a lot of unnecessary things.

Parapet reinforcement

Since you are planning to insulate the balcony, you should take care of a reliable basis for installing the glazing frame. The standard parapet of a “Soviet”-built balcony has a parapet in the form of a thin, low metal fence, which is quite strong in itself, but the quality of its fastening in the balcony slab often leaves much to be desired.

But even if it is well fixed and able to withstand the weight of the glazing frame, it is not possible to fix the frame on the parapet with high quality.

The fact is that the standard parapet actually runs along the edge of the concrete balcony slab. And if a frame is installed on such a parapet, then to fix it, you will have to drill the top plate almost at the very edge, which will inevitably lead to “splits” of the latter.

In order to qualitatively fix the glazing frame from all sides, including from above, it is necessary to shift the plane of the frame installation inside the balcony by several centimeters (5-7 cm) relative to the edge of the top plate. You can check the need for such a reconstruction using a plumb line.

This will happen to the detriment of the useful area of ​​​​the balcony, but it will allow you to securely fix the frame for its many years of “life”.

Attention! It is unacceptable to fix the frame on the mounting foam, since over time (1-2 years) under the influence of the sun and wind loads on the plane of the windows, it collapses.

This design can be optimally made from a bar of 50x70 mm. The option of using gas blocks is not entirely acceptable, since they will create an additional weight load on the balcony slab, which, together with the heavy construction of the glazing frame, can lead to the collapse of the balcony.

External finishing of the parapet and side walls

It is necessary to decide on the external finish of the parapet. Performing such work before glazing will provide you with a lot of convenience for installation, such as siding. On the implementation of such work, you can view a lot of materials outside the format of this article.

In short, from such material as siding, we can say that it belongs to the group of PVC profiles. This is a frost-resistant and weather-resistant finishing material used for outdoor work.

The design of the profile ensures ease of installation, which must be done very carefully on the balcony. The result of unscrupulous and illiterate installation of siding is stripes torn off by the wind, which you can’t just put back in place.

Video: highlights in the installation of siding

Be careful! When installing siding, it is STRICTLY CONTRAINDICATED FOR HEALTH to bend over the parapet of a balcony to install an external finishing material. All work on fixing the siding can and should be carried out through the balcony railing. And for safety, use a mounting belt with a chain and a carabiner.

Video: "Errors when installing siding"

The exterior decoration of the balcony can also be made with plastic clapboard or corrugated board.

Balcony glazing for the purpose of its insulation

Having decided to insulate the balcony with your own hands, you will not pass by the stage of its glazing. Balcony glazing can be carried out along the entire perimeter of the parapet or partially, making the side walls and side parts of the front side “blind”. I hope you have already realized that under the glazing you need a serious supporting structure, the presence of which will guarantee the longevity of the window frame of the balcony. As a glazing today, metal-plastic windows are the best option in the price-quality comparison. Their wear resistance and durability in the "company" with the correct installation firmly hold such windows in a leading position in the building materials market.

To insulate balconies, you can use single-chamber (there is a possibility of freezing in winter) or double-glazed windows (ideal, but heavier).

It is advisable to choose five-chamber profiles for frame structures from reliable manufacturers.

For more information about choosing a glazing option, see the article "Insulation of the loggia".

Balcony insulation

How to properly insulate a balcony after glazing? Now we are talking mainly about internal insulation, since “carrying out “insulation” work outside at a height with your own hands is highly not recommended - contact high-altitude specialists.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside? And what is the best way to insulate the balcony inside?

All materials and technologies used must meet the following criteria:

• insulation for the balcony must be non-combustible;
• calculate the allowable load on the base of the balcony, especially in the case of the construction of supporting masonry from foam concrete or aerated concrete (a balcony is not a loggia);
• the insulation must have a minimum thickness with maximum heat-insulating properties - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony is not unlimited;
• take care of an additional heat source on the balcony, while remembering that pipes and central heating batteries are prohibited by law from being taken out to balconies.

It is possible to insulate a balcony with high quality only with the obligatory insulation of the supporting parapet, floor, ceiling and right and left side walls. On a small balcony, it will be effective to use effective thin heaters, for example, penofol, penoplex.

Stages of creating a heat-insulating layer

In choosing the method of warming the balcony with your own hands, you should decide on the choice of heat-insulating material. How to insulate the balcony inside? What is the best insulation for a balcony? Suitable basalt, mineral wool, polystyrene foam (flammable!). The best choice can be expanded polystyrene foam, which is also resistant to moisture, temperature extremes, aggressive environmental influences and, at the same time, has high thermal insulation qualities.

Before installing the insulation, the installation plane must be carefully waterproofed from external moisture. For these purposes, a waterproofing film (up to 200 microns) or foamed polyethylene (4-10 mm) is used. Installation is carried out on double-sided tape, staples, foam, glue - the choice of method depends on the base. The joints of the sheets are carefully glued with adhesive tape.

The thermal insulation layer must be covered with a vapor barrier layer. It can be foam foil. This material is placed with the foil side inside the room - this will create an additional heat-reflecting layer.

Attention! In the case of using cotton wool insulation, a mandatory-recommended element is a vapor barrier layer, which is designed to prevent warm steam from entering the vapor barrier layer from the side of the room.

Some ways to warm the balcony with your own hands

• What material to insulate the balcony?
• As we have repeatedly mentioned, it is possible to insulate a balcony with various heat-insulating materials. Consider some individual methods of insulation.

Insulation of the balcony with polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam)

Styrofoam - it is also polystyrene foam, it is also a heat insulator with low thermal conductivity due to its structure, saturated with large air "bubbles". Available for use in the form of plates with a thickness of 50-150 mm. Plates up to 100 mm thick are suitable for us.

The advantages of insulating a balcony with foam plastic include the hygroscopicity of this material, that is, its resistance to moisture.

"Steps" in the process of insulation with polystyrene foam:

• deep priming of balcony surfaces;
• installation of plates with a special adhesive composition;
• additional fastening of plates with dowels of the "umbrella" type;
• we fix the vapor barrier layer (for those who are pedantic about the task at hand - all others can do);
• we reinforce the surface with a fiberglass mesh fixed with an adhesive solution;
• we putty, plaster, paint, etc.

Styrofoam - as a heater on the balcony

Insulate with foam

Penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam is better, but also more expensive material for balcony insulation. Foam slabs with a thickness of 20-100 mm often have a stepped protrusion at the edges, which makes it possible to obtain a better connection when docking such as a "quarter" or "thorn-groove".

At temperatures up to "-25 ° C", a 40 mm insulation layer is sufficient. In "frosty" climatic conditions, a layer of foam 50-70mm is required.

Insulating with Penoplex, we act as follows:

• we waterproof the surface on which we will mount the foam boards;
• installation of plates is carried out "end-to-end" (Required!);
• if the plates are to be plastered in the future, then they must be fixed to the adhesive composition + we make a “control” fixation with the help of dowels - umbrellas, and in the case of a different decorative finish, it will be enough just to fix the plates with dowels - “umbrellas” (5-8 pieces per plate);

Note! If the front wall of the balcony is made of foam blocks or other “solid” material, then for mounting on it (also on the side and ceiling surfaces) Penoplex should not be made of wooden or other crates. In comparison with the thermal insulation properties of foam plastic, wood is the worst heat insulator. Therefore, the crate will simply create "bridges" of cold, which will be very inopportune. For the subsequent installation of drywall or lining, the crate is made on top of the vapor barrier layer laid on the foam. The resulting air "pockets" will play the role of additional heat insulators.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

If in response to the question of what material to insulate the balcony with, you will say - with mineral wool! Well - this is an option, but not the best. For we have almost come to the dispute “which insulation is better for a balcony” to the dominant answer - Penoplex. And wool with a small thickness will not give a sufficient thermal insulation effect, but it will be a little “difficult” to install when eliminating the gaps between its plates.

But, "the master is the master"!

We will tell you how to insulate a balcony from the inside with mineral wool:

• we remember about the waterproofing of the surface and, of course, we carry it out;
• carefully and accurately glue sheets of cotton wool to the surface (without pushing through them) with a minimum gap;
• after the glue has dried, we additionally fasten it with dowels - "umbrellas";
• and again vapor barrier - here it is MANDATORY!
• then the installation of a reinforcing mesh or lathing and decorative trim.

Note! When insulating the floor, working with mineral wool will be much easier. It is laid between the lags on a waterproofed surface. Top covered with a layer of vapor barrier and rough floor material.

Additional heat sources

If your insulated balcony is not one with the room, but is isolated from it by a window and a balcony door, it will be useful to install an additional heater on it. The best option would be to use electric heaters: convectors, oil or ceramic radiators. The heat source power of 1 kW will allow you to set the required comfortable temperature on a balcony up to 4m2. . With a larger balcony area, it is recommended to use two heat sources with a power of 1 kW each for more uniform heating of the entire volume and walls of the insulated balcony.

Today materials for the organization of a "warm floor" have become available. The power consumption of a heated floor made with a heating cable for a standard balcony (up to 4 m 2) will be approximately 1 kW.

Read more about this in the article "Installation of a warm floor under a tile."

If you are using an individual heating system, consider water radiators on an insulated balcony.

And now! .. You have already read about how to insulate a balcony with your own hands! Read more in other sources! After all, it is still possible to insulate the balcony from the inside with clapboard ... And with liquid insulation ...

Now it remains to decide on the option, the better to insulate the balcony inside, or choose several in order to calculate how much it costs to insulate the balcony.

Yes, more! Entrust the process of balcony glazing to the "pros" - why risk expensive structures, as well as people and cars moving under your balcony.