When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in the standard version are white, but can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

window structure

To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.

Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Training

If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, then installation with unpacking is necessary.

Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (handle turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
            • Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
            • Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
            • So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a standard window, another anchor is installed: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation as many times as necessary.

         

      6. Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. The tide also foams along the lower edge.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.

          

          Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

          

Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tight. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.

In the process of building a house, many owners have a question when windows are installed. It is important to know that natural wood structures are installed after completion of interior finishing work such as ceiling screed and plastering.

Before starting installation, the building should dry out a little, since high humidity can lead to swelling of the natural material and its cracking, as well as damage to the paintwork.

To reduce air humidity, you can use drywall instead of plastering for wall decoration. In this case, the installation of the window structure can be carried out after performing the screed on the walls and before finishing with drywall.

If you prefer plastic windows for your home, they can be installed both after and before finishing, since the PVC structure is not susceptible to moisture. However, it is important to remember that if the walls are finished with plasterboard, the windows must be installed before using it, since the material is not moisture resistant.

Performing work in the winter: the main subtleties

The main construction processes: laying the foundation, erecting walls, organizing the roof, fall on the warm season. In autumn and winter, it's time for interior finishing work. After installing metal-plastic windows in the house, it is necessary to start the heating system. In winter, it is recommended to use drywall sheets for wall decoration. The choice of this material does not greatly affect the level of humidity in the room, but will significantly speed up the repair work.

If the owners plan to install windows made of natural wood, dry plaster is used for finishing work to avoid swelling of the frames.

The key to success: the right microclimate in the repaired premises

The speed and quality of work is largely dependent on humidity and temperature. In houses where plastic windows are installed, it is necessary to improve the natural ventilation system. For this, the windows are left ajar, and fans are mounted in the ventilation ducts.

You also need to control the temperature. Until the screed and plaster are completely dry, the value on the thermometer should not fall below + 5 ° C. As an alternative to the traditional concrete screed, a prefabricated dry screed can be partially used. This choice will speed up the finishing work by reducing the amount of building moisture.

We carry out finishing work in the summer

Interior decoration is an important and time-consuming process. Before starting the repair, it is desirable to complete the installation of plastic windows. Especially if the work is scheduled for the spring.

Installing windows involves several steps. Upon completion of installation, repairs and alignment of slopes are carried out. Then proceed to the processing of the walls with cement mortar.

Installation of wooden windows should be postponed until the completion of interior work.

It is important to remember that a draft provokes peeling of the wallpaper and causes the paint to “swell”. You can protect the room from air penetration with the help of a film. It is enough to fix it on the window opening.

The slopes must dry after finishing work. Therefore, at the initial stage, the solution should be applied only to the walls. Wooden windows are installed last.

At the final stage, window slopes should be plastered. Craftsmen also use an alternative cladding method - their plasterboard finish.

On walls that are not insulated with anything, it is possible to perform facade plastering both before and after installing windows. However, it is still recommended to carry out work after the installation of windows. This will allow you to perform all subsequent finishing work faster and more efficiently. After the installation of windows, the arrangement of slopes and external ebbs can be immediately carried out. These works allow to avoid further alteration of the facade. If the plaster was applied before the windows were installed, then the subsequent plastering of the facade will be very different.

If the plans include the organization of two-layer walls, then initially perform
installation of windows, and then the insulation is laid and the facade is plastered. In addition, such a sequence of installation allows you to better perform finishing work.
external slopes.

In order that after the insulation of the facade it was possible to apply plaster, slabs
impose 2-3 cm on the window opening. We must not allow in the corners
windows formed joints of insulation boards. Therefore, the plates are cut, giving them
the shape of the letter "G". And then they fix it with a cutout in the corner of the window.

For the period of facade plastering, specialists cover the windows with a film, which is fixed with adhesive tape. Upon completion of the work, it is removed. It is not recommended to fix the film with molar tape, because after its removal, traces remain on the window.

Construction installation rules

When ordering windows, it is necessary to invite a company specialist who will accurately measure the dimensions of the future structure.

Installation of the product is carried out at an outdoor air temperature of at least -5 ° C. Lower rates can lead to the appearance of microcracks and chips on the plastic elements of the window. In addition, negative temperature indicators lead to a deterioration in the adhesion of the mounting foam to the wall.

Fixing the window structure to the wall

The window is mounted in the opening with the help of special bars, leveling in the vertical and horizontal direction. It is fixed to the wall by one of two methods - frame dowels and steel anchors.

In the case of using an anchor, one end is fixed on the window, and the other on the wall. Such fasteners can be used to fix window blocks made of various materials.

The frame dowel is not such a versatile solution, as it forces you to make changes to the design. To fix the frame with it, a hole is drilled in the window profile and the wall. A dowel is installed in the formed channel and twisted. All work is carried out by installers carefully, since twisting the dowel too tightly can lead to window deformation.

Upon completion of the installation of the window structure, the joints along its perimeter are foamed, and the material is protected from the outside with a vapor barrier tape or a special liquid sealant. It allows you to prevent the impact on the foam of negative external factors.

Placing a window in a wall

It is required to correctly position the structure in the outer wall, as this will prevent the appearance of "cold bridges".

When installing the structure in a single-layer wall, it is placed closer to the middle, which reduces heat loss. In double-layer walls, the window block is mounted flush with the outer part of the masonry. At the same time, it is important that the insulation enters the profile at a distance of about 3 cm, blocking the joint between the wall and the frame.

In the case of building a house with three-layer walls, the window structure is mounted in an insulating layer, in the immediate vicinity of the masonry of the bearing part of the wall. The resulting gap is filled with a special tape that prevents the negative effects on the structure of moisture and temperature changes.

Today, PVC double-glazed windows are very popular among the population. This is due to the good performance of the design. Plastic windows are installed not only in city apartments, but also in private wooden houses. Buildings made of wood are not rigid, so the installation of double-glazed windows in such structures has certain features. How to choose and insert a PVC product into the window opening of a wooden house yourself, the article will tell.

Before buying a double-glazed window, you need to dismantle the old window, measure the window opening, draw up a diagram. To prepare this drawing, you will need a tape measure. The quality of the installation depends on how correctly the measurement is performed. It should be borne in mind that in a house made of wood, the window opening has parallel slopes.

Measurement is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Determined with the border of the bearing wall. The plaster on the slopes is often thicker. It is corrected by a plus of 2 centimeters.
2. Measure the distance between the side slopes at the bottom and at the top.
3. Determine the height from the window sill to the upper slope on the left and right.
4. Measure the width of the opening from wall to wall from below and above.
5. Measure the height from the top of the opening to low tide on the right and left.

The width of the window sill should be equal to the width of the wall. If it is planned to replace the old window structure made of wood with a new one made of PVC, then the openings are slightly expanded. To change the geometry of the opening, use an electric or chainsaw.

Often, when comparing measurements of the window opening on the right and left, top and bottom, the master reveals discrepancies in the results. This is due to the skew of the existing opening. This is especially true for panel, frame structures.

To determine the exact dimensions, a rectangle with the same opposite sides is used.

Given the presence of an old frame, plaster and other factors, you need to strive for the following indicators:

• The height of the window should ensure that there is a gap between the window and the lower slope, which is equal to the thickness of the window sill. The approximate value is 8-9 centimeters.
• The standard width of the window is several centimeters less than the width of the opening relative to the slopes.

After completing all the measurements and drawing according to the rules, you can order a window, fasteners and a window sill. It usually takes about 10 days to make and ship. If you cannot measure the window opening yourself, then it is better to seek help from specialists. But keep in mind that the prices for this service are considerable. Photos of work can be viewed on the forums.

What is needed for installation?

When the double-glazed window is manufactured and delivered, it is allowed to proceed with its installation. This work requires certain skills, knowledge of the rules and installation technology. It is necessary to prepare certain tools, buy special fasteners.

Here is a set of tools and materials that is useful for high-quality installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden and timber house:

When the double-glazed window is delivered, it must be kept at room temperature for some time. Acclimatization of the product before installation is important for a quality installation.

Step-by-step instructions for DIY installation

In order for the installation of PVC to be successful, a certain procedure must be followed. Usually, the manufacturer attaches detailed installation instructions to a specific double-glazed window model. She needs to follow closely. First you need to install a pigtail or casing in a mortgage bar. Then a double-glazed window is inserted.

Inserting a plastic window into a log house has some methods and features. Do-it-yourself installation of a PVC structure in a wooden house is possible. But this will require the help of a second person: the size and weight of the structure are large, it is difficult to move the window alone.

Often, those people who installed a double-glazed window in a wooden house with their own hands have a problem with the fact that the windows sweat, condensation accumulates on them, or, conversely, it comes out of the frame due to insufficient sealing. The reason why this happens lies in the mistakes made during the installation. Therefore, the installation must be carried out responsibly and competently, in warm and calm weather.

Correct installation of the sling

An okosyachka is an element of a window design that removes all gaps and cracks between the frames and helps to preserve heat in the room.

Does she need? Also, the casing box does not allow the side bars to move in the horizontal direction and makes it possible to move them vertically. This protects the glass from cracking. The pigtail is especially important if the wall between adjacent windows is small. In addition, this element acts as a decoration of a wooden house.

Installing a doorway pit has some peculiarities. First you need to prepare the window opening. It should be no less than 10 centimeters wider than the frame. When calculating the size of the gap, it is important to take into account the thickness of the boards, casing seams. The shrinkage factor of a wooden house is also taken into account. In the future, the gap is filled with special heaters and closed with platbands.

According to statistics, the shrinkage of a wooden house can be up to 30 centimeters. A lot depends on the material. For a year after construction, the shrinkage of a structure from a beam is 3-4 centimeters, from a log - 4-6 centimeters, from a glued beam - 1-3 centimeters. The subsidence of the premises already in the first year can cause the window to be pressed down by the crowns of the wall structure. Sometimes wall shrinkage occurs even after 5 years of operation of the structure under the influence of air humidity and seasonal climate changes.

After preparing the window opening, a comb is cut out. For this purpose, it is preferable to use glued or monolithic timber. This element will be the base for a carriage with a groove. During shrinkage, the logs will move inside this groove. This will save the window from unnecessary load.

To make a carriage, use a beam with a section of 15x10 centimeters. In the middle of the beam there should be a groove 5 centimeters wide more than the window. The comb is cut with a chainsaw. For the top, use an edged board measuring 15x4 centimeters. On each side, grooves under the comb are cut out in it. After installing the gun carriages on the sides of the window opening, the top is fastened with self-tapping screws. After assembling the casing, all gaps are caulked and sealed with jute tape.

Plastic window insert

After the pigtail is made and installed, proceed to the insertion of a plastic window. Installing a window without casing is considered a gross mistake. First you need to check the parallels. Leave gaps between the PVC double-glazed window and the frame 5 centimeters on top and 2 centimeters on the sides.

It is important to correctly install the window structure along the depth of the wall of a wooden house. Then on the surface of the glass, slopes and window frames at sub-zero temperatures outside, condensation will not form, which causes fogging of the glass, wetting of the window system and the interior decoration of the slopes. The location of the double-glazed unit should be determined by a competent designer, taking into account the design features of the wall.

It is better to mount the design on special elements. They are supplied complete with double-glazed windows, and are also sold at any hardware store. These elements are metal plates with holes. The price for them is acceptable. How much fasteners cost depends on the model of the window, the quality of the product. Some owners of wooden houses decide to use self-tapping screws for fastening. This is not the best option, since such parts do not provide proper thermal insulation and tightness of the structure.

Inserting a window is carried out using a level. Otherwise, the double-glazed window may be installed crooked. And this reduces the performance of the window and negatively affects the aesthetic appearance of the product.

Before inserting a white plastic window, experts recommend removing the sashes. So the weight of the window will become less, installation will be easier and more convenient. The window is inserted into the opening, aligned and fixed. Then all existing gaps are sealed with special mounting foam. To make the fixation more reliable, bars are used. So during foaming, the window will not move. This completes the installation of a double-glazed window in the window opening of a wooden house. It remains only to put on the sashes and let the foam dry. To improve the protection of a wooden house from the weather and extend the life of a plastic window, you should additionally install a low tide outside the window.

Why is it better to install a PVC window?

PVC windows have many advantages over wooden counterparts. The only advantage of wooden structures is a more presentable appearance. But recently, manufacturers of double-glazed windows offer different colors and models of products. In addition, the frame of a plastic window for a veranda can be lined with a textured film that imitates wood.

Unlike wooden frames, plastic ones have the following advantages:

• Resistant to aggressive detergents. Plastic is allowed to be cleaned with compounds prepared on the basis of acids and alkalis, which remove all types of contaminants. Wood, even impregnated with a special protective compound, has low resistance to aggressive substances. It is cleaned only by wiping with a sponge dipped in soapy water.
• Resistance to mechanical influences. It is extremely difficult to damage the metal-plastic profile. But chips on a wooden frame appear often.
  Availability. The price of blind plastic windows is 1.5 times cheaper than wooden frames. Even designs made from inexpensive conifers will cost more than a plastic product. But a frame made of precious woods - for example, cedar, oak, ash or beech - costs at least twice as much as a PVC window.

Also, the advantages of using plastic windows in wooden houses include:

In view of the mass of positive qualities and advantages, plastic windows are being installed today by an increasing number of owners of wooden houses.

Thus, in a wooden house it is most preferable to install. This is the most affordable, reliable and attractive product. Installation and cladding of PVC windows in the country is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the instructions and work in tandem with an assistant. If you have any doubts about the possibility of a high-quality installation of a plastic window with your own hands, then you should seek help from specialists. This service is offered by various companies involved in the production and sale of double-glazed windows. But for the work of the master will have to pay a certain amount of money. On the other hand, the work is guaranteed to be done with high quality, which means that the design will last a long time. A video of self-installation of a plastic window can be viewed below.

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of a rise in energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so many people are interested in installing a plastic window in a wooden house with their own hands. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Choice of plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is right for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you will not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and triple-chamber (right) double-glazed window

The production of double-glazed windows implies not only different manufacturing technologies, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance. Below you will see what they are:

1. The usual option with float glass. Such glass has high light transparency and is devoid of any shortcomings.
2. Multifunctional double-glazed windows. It has protection against ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sunlight), has a low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they do not let in the cold in winter, and the heat in summer.
3. Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet (sunlight), destroys the dirt that the first rain will wash away. Leaks and stains do not remain.
4. Soundproof options. In this case, thickened glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration, as such, is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railways and airfields.
5. Reflective glazing. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. Such options are ideal for hot climatic conditions - they do not allow heat to pass through, they do not heat up themselves, but at the same time they freely transmit photons (light).
6. Colored glass panes. Such glasses soften bright light and poorly transmit heat, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (retention of light and heat) change with the hues.
7. Tinted windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but at the same time, no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
8. Energy saving options with k-glass. This is an ordinary float glass, on which a k-coating (a thin metal film) is applied by the pyrolysis method during its manufacture (in the hot state). This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
9. Energy saving options with i-glass. Possesses the lower thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But the i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
10. Constructions from smart glasses. These are, as it were, “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
11. Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet, where a transparent polymer is in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but fire resistance and mechanical strength increase (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on the polymer.

Note. Double-glazed windows are also distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber packages.

Video: Insulating glass formula determines the choice

Plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of the PVC profile for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

• number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5-chamber PVC profiles are produced. In this case, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third - 70 mm.
• The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:

1. A - 3 mm ± 0.2 mm;
2. B - 2.7 mm ± 0.2 mm;
3. C - 2.5 mm ± 0.2 mm.

• Reinforcing or guiding profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross section - it should be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially of smaller thickness, indicates poor quality.
• Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a guarantee from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if at least once a year the inserts are lubricated with special silicone, then the service life will double.
• A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit a smell, but this depends on its composition:

1. TiO2 is titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
2. Chalk - its allowable rate in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. From this, the plastic burns out, turns yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.

• The manufacturer largely determines the quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the countries of the European Union and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied every 30-50 cm from the end side. It displays the date of manufacture and the country of origin. If such a marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them in the process of reading.

Removing old windows

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in operation. But this applies only to old houses, where there are already window openings with a pigtail and they meet your needs - this item is irrelevant in a new building.

First of all, all glass should be removed - for this, the glazing bead and all the carnations that did not come out during the elimination of this profile are removed. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the installation site of the glazing beads, slightly resting on the glass. If the fixing material remains there, then the blade will definitely stumble on it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technology.

In some cases, in order to clog windows to the maximum and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife to tear it off the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can shatter and injure you. To avoid this, a wet newspaper is glued to the glass and broken - all the fragments will fall nearby and not scatter.

The frame rests on nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After that, pick up a part of the cut vertical with a nail puller and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the diameters with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

So they make a groove for the casing spike in the mortgage bar

First of all, window openings should be cut out and there are two options here. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is more an exception than a rule. Usually, first of all, window (door) openings are cut out and only after that they measure the windows or invite a representative of the company where the windows will be made (this is a free service).

Casing in a mortgage bar (left) and in a deck (right)

To begin with, let's look at the features of the installation of casing (pigtails). Casing into a deck clearly implies cutting a spike along the verticals of the opening, and in the box making a groove for this spike, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on a pigtail with a mortgage bar - it is more popular.

With a mortgage bar, more options. The groove is cut out in the opening according to the size of the bar (usually it is 50 × 50 mm) and the bar is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top to shrink the house. But sometimes they make the so-called stud-monolith, this is when the stud is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, when the wall shrinks, logs or beams will simply slide along the spike without deforming the window frame.

On both sides of the inserted bar, a jute or felt tape is nailed with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a draft box to the bar, which is most often assembled from a 50 × 100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws with a length of 75 mm - they are guaranteed not to pass through the bar and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, then a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if it is placed below between the vertical boards, then it is placed on top of them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, after installation will leave 3 cm of free space. The boards of the draft box are best fastened together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with our own hands, so below you can watch a video on how a pigtail is made.

Important! The use of mounting foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box to the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the bar during shrinkage.

Video: Okosyachka or casing of the opening - protection against shrinkage of the building

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the draft frame (casing), you can proceed with the installation of the window sill - this is the first step to assemble the window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill does not adjoin the transverse profile on the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength on the sides of the box, you should make a cut of 5-8 mm and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level, use plastic plates as supports (mention them when ordering a window if you insert it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with a press washer

The window sill element must be attached to the bottom of the window opening with self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge of the plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installing a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always pasted over with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and dirt. To prevent the sashes from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and put them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fixing screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The hats must be recessed into the plastic, so with a 10 mm drill they make a hole deep to the metal profile. Three holes are needed on the sides, and two holes at the top and bottom, indented from the corner by 50-60 mm.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the windowsill, but at the top and sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the opening-closing function of the valves, so that there is no skew.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere, and there is a tight fit), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the mounting groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now it remains to blow out the gap between the frame and the draft box with mounting foam, and it will be possible to open the sash the very next day (a precautionary measure against distorting the profile). It remains to make slopes inside and out, as well as install trim, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the device and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But care is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work, to use when needed.

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How to fix a window: an overview of fasteners and a photo report on the installation

Hello. In this article, I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using an available tool. I hope that this topic will be of interest to you, as installation skills can save money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you a double-glazed window cheaper due to self-assembly. Saving money is obvious!

Basic information about window installation

Installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures that compensate for the mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory device of a casing box, which compensates for loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic double-glazed windows:

• Strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
• Correct location in terms of level relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• Properly executed sealing of gaps along the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fasteners for installation of double-glazed windows in PVC profile

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel with plastic seal; c - universal plastic dowel; g - screw (self-tapping screw); e - anchor plate

Before proceeding to the description of the installation, I propose to find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased at hardware stores. There are many fasteners and such a variety is not accidental, since each variety is intended for one or another type of wall.

Window fasteners, according to the type of walls, are divided into the following categories:

• for concrete walls;
• for the installation of brick walls;
• for installation in aerated concrete walls;
• for fastening to wood.

By the way, with the use of the listed fasteners, a protective grille can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows are installed in concrete openings by means of anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

For reliable fixation of a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long and thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished result will depend on how carefully the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fasteners will not provide the necessary mounting strength.

Installation with anchors is carried out in two ways:

1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and through the plate the window structure is fastened to the opening.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, an anchor plate can be used, since the fasteners can be covered during finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of a simple or complex configuration. Plain plates are ordinary perforated strips. Along with such devices, there are “crabs” - plates that cut into the profile, which simplifies the finishing of slopes.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

The fastening of plastic windows in a brick opening is carried out in approximately the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls, the holes are drilled in place, since you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the masonry seam.

For installation in brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum entry into the brick at which you can be sure that the fastening will not loosen or weaken when operation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is rarely used, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without a casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, lumber and frame buildings.

If a casing box is installed in the opening, installation can be done with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 10 cm and a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the screws in increments of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore we choose special dowels for installation and perform installation with a small pitch between the screws.

The installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, as more and more houses are being built using such blocks. That is why, in order to get acquainted with the installation technology, I offer a small photo report on the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window in the walls of aerated concrete blocks

To perform installation work you will need:

• Perforated anchor plates (160×40 mm and 2 mm thick);
• Plastic dowels (50×10 mm) for mounting in aerated concrete;
• Universal metal self-tapping screws (60×6 mm);
• Electric drill and drills in accordance with the diameter of the dowel;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• water level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• If the perforation in the anchor plates does not match the diameter of the dowels, we drill holes, if the diameter initially matches, skip this step and proceed to the next one;

• We fasten the anchor plates along the profile perimeter to the self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located outside;

In order for the frame to be securely fixed in the opening, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

• We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it according to the level in the horizontal and vertical plane;

• After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

For drilling aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with a winning surfacing. Since aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the same drill that was previously used to drill out anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to pull the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is easier than ever, and as a result, the dowel will not stick to the wall.

• We screw dowels into the drilled holes;

• We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed dowels;

At the end of the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, as they will provide additional stability to the structure.

• From the spray gun, we abundantly moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
• We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with mounting foam, so that the excess applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
• After the foam has dried, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how to attach a thermometer on the window and at the same time not make holes in the profile in vain?

It turns out that there is nothing complicated, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with ears and mounting holes should not be mounted on plastic, but on wooden frames. But, if there is a thermometer with holes for screws, fix this device on the profile with short self-tapping screws - this will not harm the profile.

In conclusion, I note that if you do not know how to fix the handle on the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will go through the PVC and will be held in the metal.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a PVC window block in an opening of walls of different composition. I hope that the suggested instructions were useful to you. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

September 24, 2016

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