How to lay large paving slabs. Options and technologies for the correct laying of tiles for the sidewalk, the necessary materials and tools

Today it has acquired colossal proportions, not only in industrial, but also at home. It is not surprising that this facing material has gained immense popularity in the design of garden paths, sidewalks, etc. However, before proceeding with the improvement of the area adjacent to your home, you need to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly.

Often this material is called paving stone. There are many schemes for laying it, the most popular of them are herringbone, column and brickwork. This material is good because it is very easy to pave paths and sidewalks with its help. And the areas where paving stones of different colors are used look very neat and elegant. So, how to lay paving slabs correctly? Consider the main stages of work.

To begin with, you need to familiarize yourself with some tips that will be useful in the preparation and Buying paving stones, you need to consider the waste that is generated from cutting. Their number depends on the shape of the tile and on the method of laying.

Before laying, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil from the selected area to a depth of at least fifteen centimeters. You should also clean the place of debris and plant roots. Next, you should mark the proposed site, taking into account the slope. In order for rain and melt water to drain better, in some cases it is recommended to arrange drainage.

Your next step should be rolling or compacting the soil. It is produced in any way known to you. Before laying paving slabs, it is necessary to mark the future path and build borders. To do this, you need to dig grooves where curb stones are installed. The rammed path must be laid out with geotextiles. This is done so that during operation the paved area is not deformed.

As a base for paving slabs, you need to make a “pillow” of crushed stone and sand. It is arranged regardless of which installation method you have chosen: on a dry mix or on a solution. A "cushion" is made as follows: the entire surface of the site is covered with a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction. The layer must be poured with water and carefully compacted. Next, you need to pour a layer of sand, which must also be moistened and leveled. It is worth noting that experts offer many ways on how to properly lay paving slabs in the country. Some craftsmen recommend pouring cement mortar immediately onto a layer of rubble, bypassing the sand, while others place a reinforcing mesh on the sand layer. Experts also advise pouring the screed not with concrete, but with a solution of tile adhesive.

Before that, it is worth considering that in the process of work it is necessary to immediately form a path and observe the level of laying the material. The paving stones must be laid on the finished “pillow”, after which it should be tamped with a mallet or a vibrating plate. You can lay tiles not only in the traditional way, but also in a dry way. This is done as follows: the cement-sand mixture must be poured onto the laid paving stones and distributed over all seams. The remains must be swept away with a brush, and the tile itself should be carefully poured with water so that the liquid penetrates into all the cracks. Soon the mixture will harden, and your path will delight the eye with neatness and beauty.

Paving slabs are one of the most reliable and beautiful road building materials. It is often used for paving sidewalks and car entrances in the courtyard of a private house. The cost of laying tiles is not low, and not everyone knows how to lay paving stones. In order for the road product to be of high quality, it is necessary to follow the technology of work performance. Do-it-yourself paving stone laying is carried out according to the instructions and based on the recommendations.

It is important to know how to properly lay paving slabs so that they served for many years and had a beautiful appearance. The paving stone pavement will ennoble not only the yard of a private house, but also the adjacent territory on the street.

Types and benefits

Types of paving slabs according to the material of manufacture:

• Vibrocasting.
• Clinker.
• Granite.

In addition to differences in material, there is a huge variety in color, shape and decor. Also, it differs in the way of laying and the technology of work.

Benefits of laying pavers:

• high strength material.
• Long service life.
• Environmental friendliness of the material.
• Great bearing capacity.
• Low temperature resistance.
• Beautiful appearance.
• Ease of installation.
• The possibility of reusing the material.

Disadvantages:

• Material cost high enough.
• Complexity of processing.
• It is uncomfortable to walk on cobblestones in heels.
• Possibility base washout and then the masonry sags or individual elements fall out.

Material consumption calculation

Before you start laying paving stones, you must purchase all the necessary material and purchase a tool. It is important to accurately calculate the area of ​​​​work in order to buy all the tiles in one batch. If sand or cement can always be bought in addition, then the tile will be difficult to find. If it is the same model and the same manufacturer, but a different batch, then it may not match the previous one in shade or size.

On a path paved with tiles from different batches, a shift can form and is quite noticeable. For this reason, paving slabs must be purchased immediately in full and even 10% more for stock.

Required material and tools:

• Paving slabs.
• Border.
• Geotextile.
• Sand.
• Rubble.
• Cement.
• Shovel.
• Rake.
• Broom.
• Wheelbarrow.

• Vibrating plate (manual rammer).
• Grinder with a diamond blade for cutting concrete.
• Rubber mallet.
• A hammer.
• Metric tape measure.
• Level.
• Rule.
• Bucket.
• Trowel.
• Irrigation hose.
• Pegs and beacon cord.
• Individual protection means.

Paving technology

There are several ways of paving paving slabs, they depend on the purpose of the road and the type of pavement. tile can be put on sand, cement-sand mixture (carving) and even concrete, at high loads on it.

Despite the fact that there are generally established masonry technologies, each master has his own characteristics in his work. Someone says: “I lay paving stones inexpensively,” and someone takes a high fee, but gives a long-term guarantee on the quality of the product. Therefore, in order not to think about how much it costs to lay paving slabs, you need to know for yourself how to lay paving stones correctly.

As a result, you can save on the work of the master and make quality paving but it takes a lot of hard work. To properly do all the work with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will be simply necessary, especially for a person who has never encountered this type of work before.

Work performance technology

Before laying paving slabs, some preparation must go through. Need foresee all the nuances in order to achieve the desired result. How to properly lay paving slabs is often indicated by the paving stone manufacturers themselves, but each master has already developed his own technology in practice.

1. Preparation for paving stones. First of all, you need to define - when to start work. It is recommended to start work in the spring. The purpose of the road is determined. If this is a walking path, then it will be enough to use tiles with a thickness of 40 mm. For a road that will be periodically operated by a car, thicker paving stones will be needed. Besides, if the road surface is subjected to heavy load, then the pavement rests on a concrete screed. The footpath can be laid on sand or a cement-sand dry mix. But before laying the paving stones on the sand, it is necessary to arrange a reliable foundation.



2. Territory marking. Before laying paving stones with your own hands, it is necessary to mark the territory and excavate. The scope of work is determined by the paving parameters. At this stage it is important correctly determine the width of the road so that you do not have to cut a single tile. Also, you need to take into account the thickness of all seams.

   For marking in the corners of the future road, pegs are driven in and lighthouse cords are pulled. They show the level of the road surface, so the horizontal must be checked with a water level. The road is arranged in such a way that rainwater is drained.



3. Excavation. Under the paving place, earth up to a depth of 50 cm is taken out. The plant layer can be used for landscape design. The bottom of the earthen structure is leveled and carefully rammed with a vibrating plate or manual rammer.
4. Geotextile flooring. Geotextiles are spread at the bottom of the earthen structure and its walls. It increases the strength of the product and ensures its integrity. Masters of the old school often perform work without a fabric membrane, without taking modern materials into their arsenal. But this innovation is significant. improves quality road surface.



5. Gravel backfill. Crushed stone in fractions of 20 x 40 mm is poured into a trench and carefully compacted with a rammer or vibrating plate. The backfill must be at least 100 mm thick. This thickness is permissible only for the pedestrian zone; for entrances, a crushed stone backfill thickness of more than 150 mm will be required.
6. Border device. Borders are installed according to pre-made markings. A cement-sand mortar is mixed and applied to the base along the curb device. The blocks are installed in the design position on the solution and adjusted according to the level. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. After installing the curbs, it is necessary leave work for the day for the solution to gain strength.



7. Sand filling device. On the compacted crushed stone, a sand cushion with a thickness of 150 mm is made. Backfilling with sand is carried out in several stages in layers of 5 - 7 cm. Each layer is watered with water from a hose and rammed with a vibrating plate. Sand is better to take river without clay impurities. In this case, the water will drain into the soil and not linger in the backfill.
8. Backfilling with carving. Before you lay out paving slabs, you need to take care of the strength of its installation. To do this, a cement-sand dry mixture is poured onto the sand. It is evenly distributed with a rake over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe masonry. Gartsovka is prepared from sand with a cement content of approximately 1:8. When water gets on the carving, the cement hardens and firmly fixes the paving stones in its place.
9. Paving stone laying. Having decided on the pattern of the sidewalk, you can start paving the paving stones. It is necessary to learn how to lay paving stones with your own hands in appropriate conditions and the features of the work.

   The paving stone is placed in the corner, and its further laying is carried out from itself, observing the given pattern. The tile is installed on the carving and compacted with a rubber mallet. The level is set by the beacon cord. If the surface of the pavers is above the specified level, then you need to remove the laid material and slightly remove the bedding layer. If the surface level is below the lighthouse, then it will be possible to make additional bedding. Each tile is tightly fitted one to the other.

   If necessary, paving stones can be cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel for cutting stone. The laid paving stones are checked by level and rule. It should be arranged in such a way that rainwater flows off and puddles do not form.



10. Seam filling. After the paving stones are laid, it is necessary to fill the masonry joints. To do this, a dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto the road surface and evenly distributed over the entire surface. The mixture fills the seams, and the excess is removed with a broom or broom. After that, the masonry is watered with water from a hose. Gartsovka, coming into contact with water - hardens and firmly fixes the masonry.

    If a road is paving, which will be periodically operated by a car, then it is necessary to arrange a reinforced concrete base. In this case, paving stones with a thickness of 60 mm or more are used, it is placed on a cement-sand mortar.

How to lay paving slabs? This question has a modern sound, as the arrangement of tracks with its help is gaining impressive popularity. It is posted not only because it is fashionable. This is facilitated by a beautiful appearance, and practicality, and ease of installation. The modern construction industry makes it possible to choose a material from a wide range of products that differ in shape, color, size. However, it should be borne in mind that the tile is still different in quality, and therefore you should not use the services of dubious sellers - such a product will not last long.

The essence of the material

At its core, paving slabs are a high-strength tile block designed for street laying when forming sidewalks, paths, and playgrounds. It is not for nothing that it is also called paving stones, as it resembles a stone coating in appearance. Laying street tiles allows you to get rid of such procedures as asphalting or concreting.

The main advantages of such a coating are ease of installation and operation, the possibility of repair, high strength and wear resistance, resistance to sunlight, heat, precipitation, temperature changes and frost resistance. Its decorative effect is especially noted, since the variety of shapes and colors make it possible to create various ornaments and even drawings on the ground.

Paving slabs can be made from various materials. The most widespread are concrete products formed by a special technology with the addition of pigments. Less often (taking into account the increased cost) tiles made of natural stone, baked clay with the creation of an original texture, as well as rubber-based tiles are used.

You can make concrete tiles yourself. To do this, as in the factory version, one of 2 methods is used: vibrocasting and vibrocompression. In the first case, the form is filled with a concrete solution with compaction, after which it is subjected to vibration for a specified time, and then dried in natural conditions. The second method is more complicated, since it involves combining vibration with compression of the workpiece using a press, that is, vibration is performed under pressure, which provides a more monolithic structure of the product.

In general, the choice of paving slabs is carried out according to the following parameters: dimensions, thickness, shape, color, surface topography. Smooth tiles are not placed on the sidewalk to prevent slipping of the feet. A certain relief is created on its surface, which is also capable of playing a decorating role. The relief pattern is considered an important parameter in the selection of products. It can be slightly noticeable, that is, in this case, the tile just has a rough surface. When forming a certain design, preference is sometimes given to a pronounced relief in the form of an ornament or pattern.

The shape of paving slabs, even factory-made, can be very different: square, rectangle, polygon, roundness, etc. The following forms are recognized as the most popular: paving stones (rectangle), honeycomb (hexagon), wave, gzhelka, flower, scales, clover, fleece.

Required Tools

When laying paving slabs with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

• grinder or angle grinder;
• tamper;
• Master OK;
• putty knife;
• shovel;
• scoop;
• mallet;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• jigsaw;
• construction level;
• metal ruler;
• square;
• protractor;
• roulette;
• hose nozzle.

Laying rules

Paths and platforms on the site will please the eye for a long time if the issue of how to properly lay paving slabs is resolved. The event itself, although it takes a lot of time, is carried out quite simply, and therefore everything can be done independently. Certain rules for laying paving slabs will help in this.

In general, the entire installation process can be divided into several important stages:

• development of laying scheme;
• preparatory work;
• directly laying tiles;
• filling tile joints;
• installation of curbs.

It should be noted that event planning is very important. At this stage, a laying scheme is developed, namely, the shape of the track, the pattern on the surface, and the color scheme. Already at this stage, it is important to accurately calculate the need for specific elements. It should be borne in mind that if there is a shortage of tiles, there will certainly be problems with the spread of sizes in different batches of goods and with a color tint. Everything must be purchased in 1 entry.

When designing tiled masonry, it must be taken into account that such an element of arrangement is striking, so it must be in harmony with the style of the entire landscape design. The choice of element dimensions should also take into account the load on the surface being laid out, in particular, the possibility of collision with vehicles or the rolling of heavy carts.

The question of how to lay paving slabs is related to the dimensions of the site, location on the site, and the purpose of the coating. There are several ways to lay paving slabs, which provide a different visual perception. Most often, traditional laying patterns are used: brick (ordinary), column, herringbone, chess. Such masonry forms regular geometric shapes and can be carried out in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal direction, as well as in a combined way. At the same time, you can satisfy your imagination and provide styling with unconventional methods: in a circle, wave and other fancy options.

In order to lay paving slabs with your own hands, it should be remembered that it is impossible to lay out the surface only from solid elements. You will definitely have to cut the bricks, and for this, without having the skill, you may have to ruin more than one tile. At the same time, the amount of cutting required increases with the choice of a diagonal laying system, especially with an unconventional pattern. Cutting tiles is done with a special knife or a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete.

The correct formation of the coating implies the satisfaction of the following conditions:

• elements are placed in recesses, and protrusion above the ground surface should not exceed 3.5-4.5 cm;
• tiles are laid only on carefully compacted dense soil;
• the surface must be flat;
• good drainage (drainage) should be provided, excluding the appearance of puddles on the laid paving stones.

Preparatory stage

The solution to the question of how to properly lay paving slabs is largely determined by the careful preparation of the area where the process will be carried out. At the preparatory stage, the following main works are carried out:

1. Digging a hole. The work begins with the removal of the top layer of soil, which helps to solve 2 problems at once: to level the work site and create the desired recess for laying tiles. As a rule, the soil is removed to a depth of about 19-22 cm for footpaths and 28-32 cm in case of a possible collision with vehicles.
2. Soil compaction. Over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dug recess, it is necessary to carefully compact the soil. This condition is especially important when solving the problem of how to lay paving slabs on sand. In this case, it is recommended to soak the bottom of the recess well from a hose terminated with a sprayer.

When preparing the working area, the need for drainage should be taken into account. Most often, it is provided by forming a general slope of the entire site (approximately 3-4 º per meter).

Zone restriction

An obligatory element of a sidewalk or paving slab is a side limiter in the form of a curb. In its absence, the extreme tiles will move over time under load and moisture. It is best to use a ready-made concrete curb for this purpose. You can make it with your own hands by pouring concrete into the formwork or using bricks, which are then plastered.

Installation of curb plates is carried out in this order. A trench is dug around the entire perimeter, which is 5-10 cm larger than the width of the curb. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion 6-8 cm thick is poured with careful compaction. Plates are installed on top of the pillow, which are aligned with each other and in a vertical position. To exclude their displacement during the work, fixation is provided with the help of pegs. To fix the limiter, the prepared trench is filled with concrete mortar.

Foundation preparation

Paving slabs are laid on a prepared base - a pillow. Its main tasks are to level the surface and prevent subsidence of individual elements. It is made of sand and gravel in several layers.

The first layer is sand 5-8 cm thick. The next layer is provided with crushed stone, and it is designed to redistribute loads over the entire area. Its thickness is 14-18 cm. Additional filling of crushed stone with sand allows you to get rid of voids. If in the first layer of the cushion there are no special requirements for the quality of sand, then the outer layer is formed from fine sand. After that, the entire surface is moistened and carefully compacted to create a flat area with the necessary slope. Finally, it is recommended to fix the pillow by pouring a thin layer of a mixture of sand and dry cement.

The laying of paving slabs is carried out without haste and in the direction "away from you", which is important to avoid disturbing the even surface of the pillow. The elements are laid down in a certain order corresponding to the selected scheme (drawing). A gap of 1.5-2.5 mm is left between them, and wedges made of wood or plastic are used to form one of its widths throughout the site.

The tile is deepened into the sand layer by about half its thickness. Alignment along the plane is carried out using a mallet and a wooden block. As it is laid, evenness is checked with a level. First, all solid elements lie on the pillow. At the final stage, cutting of the tiles is provided. To do this, it is applied to the installation site, where the cutting line is carefully marked. All elements are cut in fact.

The laying of paving slabs is completed by sealing the seams. Their shift at this stage is excluded by filling the gaps with a dry mixture of sand and cement powder. After filling, water is sprayed over the entire surface of the sidewalk, as a result of which the cement fastens the individual elements together. Before the solution is completely dry, the fixing wedges are removed. The procedure is carried out several times (3-4 times) - for better filling of the seams. Excess mass is removed without waiting for complete curing. When decorating, a pigment of the desired shade can be added to the specified mixture.

The durability of paths or paving slabs depends on the correct preparation of the working area and the laying of elements. Such work can be done with your own hands, but taking into account the recommendations of specialists. High-quality tile laying will provide practicality and a beautiful appearance that will delight the owner of the site for a long time.

Many owners of suburban households prefer to paving paths in the local area using paving slabs. As a result, they receive not only a practical and durable coating, but also a real decoration of their site. Proper laying of paving slabs is a guarantee that the coating will cope with the tasks assigned to it. The opinion that hired craftsmen who know the styling features well will do the job better than the owner himself is sometimes erroneous. If you understand the technology of laying tiles, then it is easy to cope with the work yourself.

Scope of paving slabs

The paving slabs are applied to facing of pavings of foot and park paths, platforms and sidewalks. It can also be used to strengthen lawns, slopes and lining flower beds.

Mechanical properties of the material

Stages of planning, design and marking of the site

Do-it-yourself paving slab laying begins with the choice of material and site layout.

Plot layout

When planning the local area, you should not fall into two extremes - do without paving at all or perform a continuous coating throughout the entire territory. The best option is paths from the gate to the house and to the main buildings on the site and a platform for a car. In this case, you can avoid mud in rainy weather and at the same time save lawns and perennials.

Running a little ahead, technically, first of all, it is necessary to mark the area planned for laying with the help of “beacons”. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the corners of the territory and observe both transverse and longitudinal slopes.

Important! The slopes must be determined before the start of the preparatory work.

Choice of coating material

Now you need to decide on the choice of coverage for the tracks. Paving stones are considered the best option because the cost of laying paving slabs is quite acceptable, moreover, the work is easy to do on your own. The following advantages also speak in favor of this option:

1. the possibility of replacing individual elements and dismantling the coating;
2. the tile is frost-resistant and does not float in the heat, like asphalt;
3. unpretentious in care;
4. moisture easily seeps into the seams between the elements.

It is important to decide on the type of paving stones. So, there are factory vibropressed and vibrocast elements on sale. Decide on the thickness, color and shape of the products. But if you want to save a little and have free time and desire, then you can make the tiles yourself.

There are several types of tiles on the market. Each of them has its own characteristics, scope of use and requirements for the base:

1. Vibrocast products up to 4 cm thick Suitable for walkways and walkways. The price of such items is the lowest. Moreover, some owners make such tiles on their own.
2. Vibrocast elements up to 6 cm thick suitable for paving driveways and parking lots. The price of such a tile is average, if desired, it is made independently. A base of cement and sand is prepared for laying.
3. Vibropressed tiles the most durable. Its thickness is 6-8 cm. It is used in places with heavy traffic and loads, it is manufactured only at the factory. Paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and a sand cushion.

Important! The type of soil on the site affects the choice of base for paving. On moving soils, a concrete base is arranged even under the blind area and sidewalks. With dense soils under the driveways, a cement-sand base is made.

Despite the fact that the paving slab laying technology is quite simple, pay attention to the following recommendations:

• When laying the coating on a concrete base, be sure to arrange a slope for rainwater runoff. You can use a longitudinal, transverse or transverse-longitudinal slope of the coating. The optimal slope is 1 cm per meter. As a result, water will not collect between the tile and the concrete base, which will protect the coating from swelling. In this case, a gap for water flow is made between the tiled floor and the curb.
• The width of the track is selected as a multiple of the dimensions of one coating element. Do not think that large-sized products fit faster. Due to their significant weight, they are more difficult to lift, move and level on the ground.
• All underground communications on the site are laid until the arrangement of paths and driveways. Otherwise, the coating will have to be dismantled. If some communications are planned to be carried out in the future, then plastic pipes are laid under the path at the place where they are carried out (the cross section is chosen based on the size of the communications).
• To prevent grass from growing between the individual elements of the coating in the future, a layer of geotextile is laid in front of the foundation device.
• Laying tiles is carried out only on a dry base, so work is not carried out during and after rain.
• The base for the tile is carefully leveled. For the arrangement of the pillow, purified sand without impurities and clay is used.
• The size of the track is selected taking into account the selected elements of the coating. If you plan to make a pattern or ornament, then you should draw a diagram in advance and calculate the width of the coating, taking into account the seams. The circular way of laying products will require cutting some elements to the desired size.

At the preparation stage, it is worth considering the coating pattern. The sketch will allow you to get an idea of ​​​​the future creation and calculate the required number of elements of a particular color and configuration. If paving slabs are laid by a master, then the price, of course, for paving with a pattern or ornament will be higher.

Advice! Most patterned layout options are obtained using rectangular paving stones.

Tile layout options

paving stone design

From traditional design solutions, three main layout options can be distinguished:

1. Geometric, this is the use of simple shapes in the design, such as a line, square, circle and monotonous repeating elements. Similar solutions are presented in the layout diagrams.
2. Chaotic layout - the elements are laid out in discord, so that it is impossible to trace at least any patterns. But sometimes they adhere to one rule so that neighboring elements do not repeat, or there are no more than two repetitions.
3. Artistic laying of paving slabs is perhaps the most interesting and expensive option in classic solutions. As a rule, such decisions are of an author's nature, take into account the peculiarities of the location of objects on the site, emphasize them or vice versa transfer attention. In this segment, there are both standard solutions and exclusive design solutions. The latter option may require the production of paving slabs to order in individual sizes and colors.

And there is another option for modern design, this is an imitation of a 3D effect, creating the illusion of volume or violating the laws of geometry. Such an optical illusion effect is achieved by using the features of our vision and as a result we observe a stereoscopic, three-dimensional image.

And the latest fashion, this is the luminous paving slab tile

GOST, SNiP and TU for laying paving slabs

Before starting work, it is necessary to study and subsequently be guided by the following regulatory documents, they can also be downloaded for review:

• GOST 17608-91, since March 1, 2018, a new document GOST 17608-2017 has been released;
• SNiP III-8-76
• SNiP III-10-75 (no longer valid, but we recommend that you familiarize yourself with it);
• Instructions VSN-1-94 / VSN-26-76;

Preparatory work and necessary tools

Before starting work, prepare the required materials and tools. For work you will need:

• borders;
• tile;
• sand;
• cement;
• water.

Also stock up on the following tools ( an exhaustive list is presented, you need to choose the necessary ones based on your situation):

• rammer, vibrating plate with pad or manual roller;
• bayonet and shovel;
• paving cutter;
• grinder with diamond discs;
• sieve;
• wheelbarrow;
• stretcher;
• level;
• broom;
• Master OK;
• a rule for leveling a sand embankment;
• rubber mallet;
• pegs;
• guides;
• kapron thread or leveling cord;
• hose for water supply.

Advice! If the tiles have to be cut, then you will need a grinder with a diamond wheel or for cutting on concrete.

Plot marking

According to the outlines of the future path, we drive in the pegs of the "beacons" and pull the nylon cord. Since the stretched thread is a guideline for determining the height of the paving, the tension is performed according to the level.

Foundation preparation

The base can be made from:

• sand;
• rubble and concrete.

The choice of the type of foundation is based on the purpose of the future track or site.

The foundation preparation process consists of several stages:

• remove the top layer of sod and soil, remove the roots of plants and ram the bottom well;
• If there is a need, then we level the bed with gravel or gravel;

Important! If the excavation is not carried out, then the path will be above the level of the lawn. This is not very good, since the coating will be washed away by melt and rainwater.

• we fill the bed with a drainage layer 15-20 cm high - for footpaths and 40 cm - for driveways (gravel or crushed stone is taken for drainage);
• a layer of sand 2 cm high is poured over the rubble to level the base.

To prevent erosion of the base cushion by groundwater, geotextiles are placed under the drainage layer.

This completes the foundation work. Let's start laying street tiles and borders. Step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs with your own hands will help you do the job no worse than professional craftsmen:

Technology of laying paving slabs

Drainage and slope device

These measures are carried out so that water does not accumulate on the surface. Slopes should not be directed towards the foundation of nearby buildings. Most of the rainwater is removed by slopes and the rest goes into the ground through the tile joints. Therefore, it is recommended to use gravel or crushed stone as the main bearing drainage layer.

Formation of the carrier layer

Depending on the purpose of the future coating, the base is formed either from sand, if the surface will be used as a pedestrian zone with low traffic, or from concrete for areas with high traffic and with problematic soils.

Important points:

• The height of the layer is formed depending on the expected load on the coating. Those. the higher the permeability, the higher the layer should be and, accordingly, more materials will be spent. With significant loads, the base is laid in stages in several layers.
• The carrier layer must be laid evenly, but taking into account natural or planned slopes.
• Each laid layer is necessarily rammed using a rammer, a vibrating plate or a hand roller.

Installation of curbs

There are options for laying paving with and without curbs. But when using a curb stone, the path is clearly marked and protected from sprawl. The border is laid after leveling the base on a concrete castle. It is also allowed to use a plastic tile border. The product is mounted flush with the paving surface or slightly above it. Since the tiles will shrink, it is recommended to lay the pavers 5 mm above the curb.

The device of sand or cement-sand layers

If crushed stone or sand is used as a carrier layer, then in the case of sand, an additional layer of sand is a continuation of the base. In the case of crushed stone, this layer is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, the following rules must be followed:

• it is necessary to set all the guide rails in advance, taking into account all the slopes and fix them firmly;
• the underlying layer is leveled using a rule so that it is approximately 10 mm above the level of the tile to be laid. This is necessary so that the tile remains at the planned level after leveling the surface of the coating and subsequent subsidence of sand or cement-sand mixture;
• to obtain a flat surface, the leveling rails must be removed and the remaining recesses filled with sand or a dry mixture.

In no case do not try to lay the tiles “by eye”, do not be lazy and pull a nylon cord around the entire perimeter of the surface to be laid. This will allow you to track the correct geometry of the laid material, tile joints and slopes. It is recommended to check the geometry of the seams every 2-3 rows.

Laying should start from the lowest point and move towards the highest. Or from some important element, for example, the entrance to the house.

Alignment of tiles is allowed with a mallet or a vibrating plate if the tile is above the required level. Also, you can add dry mix or sand if it turned out to be lower. Based on GOST and SNiP, the surface is considered flat if for every 2 meters the height difference is no more than 5-10 mm.

To form an extension, the tile is sawn with a grinder with a diamond disc.

1. Preparation of the base for laying paving. There are three types of bases:
   • sand is poured between the curbs to a height of 5-6 cm, then the sandy layer is moistened and rammed, the tiles are laid out on wet sand;
   • paving is laid on a cement-sand base, for its arrangement, a layer of sand 3 cm high is poured between the curbs, then a reinforcing mesh is laid and covered with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 4 to 1;
   • laying on a concrete base, in this case the cake consists of the following layers: sand on compacted soil (10 cm), gravel (10 cm), reinforcing mesh, road mesh, concrete (12 cm), cement-sand composition (2 cm).
2. Paving with paving slabs performed in accordance with the following rules:
   • work is carried out from the lower point of coverage;
   • the master is located on an already laid tile so as not to damage the prepared base;
   • when laying in a circle, work is carried out from its center;
   • elements are laid out not in rows, but in a diagonal direction, which facilitates horizontal alignment;
   • the cord for leveling the first row is pulled along the width of the track;
   • the horizontal is checked by the level after 3 rows;
   • the tile is installed by tapping a mallet;
   • if necessary, sand or a sand mixture is poured under the element;
   • a gap of 3 mm is made between adjacent elements (crosses are usually used if there is no remote lock on the tiles).

1. The grouting takes place in two stages. First, sand is poured onto the paving and scattered at the seams with a broom. After that, the seams are sprinkled with a cement-sand mixture (proportion 1 to 1). On sale there are ready-made mixes for seams. Then the path is abundantly sprayed with water.

Step-by-step technology for laying paving slabs on sand

	Terrain assessment and marking. The site for laying paving slabs must necessarily have the necessary slope for the outflow of rain and melt water. The outflow of water, as a rule, is done towards the street. Laying of paving slabs will be carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Use a level to measure.
	Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil and remove the roots of plants over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk or site. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil.
	Sand filling. Pour sand into the prepared bed with a layer of 5-15 cm and carefully level its surface with a rake or a rule. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord.
	Moisturizing the base. With a minimum flow rate of 10 liters per square meter, pour plenty of water over the entire base with a hose or watering can.
	Foundation compaction. To avoid subsidence of the base during further use of the sidewalk, carefully compact the sandy base with a manual rammer.
	Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, laying rows goes diagonally. The master moves forward, standing on his knees on the already laid tile, so as not to damage the even base. When laying in a circle, the movement starts from the center of the circle. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles with a level, not forgetting the required slope. With the help of a massive rubber mallet, drown the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and some additional sand.
	Filling gaps. Fill the gaps between the tiles with dry mix or sifted sand. To do this, pour sand onto the sidewalk and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. Remove excess sand or dry mix with a gentle stream of water. Make sure that the sand does not wash out of the cracks between the tiles.
	Surface cleaning. Remove dirt and residues of the mixture from the surface of the pavement with a brush.

Step-by-step technology for laying on crushed stone with a dry mix

Laying on a dry mix crushed stone base is recommended for areas with moderate traffic and light vehicle parking areas.

	Terrain assessment and marking. Laying of paving slabs is carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large pitches are divided into lanes using pegs and leveling cords.
	Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk. Remove plant roots to avoid future sprouting. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil.
	Backfilling of rubble. Fill the prepared bed with rubble with a layer of 10-20 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord.
	Compaction of crushed stone by hand.
	. Dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant curbs on the M100 mortar, and then pour them with concrete and fill with sand.
	Backfilling cement-sand mixture. Pour a mixture of cement and sand over the rubble with a layer of 5-10 cm. If necessary, install reinforcing mesh. Carefully level the cement-sand mixture.
	Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, laying rows goes diagonally. The master moves forward, standing on his knees on the already laid tile, so as not to damage the even base. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles with a level, not forgetting the required slope. With the help of a massive rubber mallet, drown the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and dry mix.
	Pavement dampening and gap filling. Plentifully, pour plenty of water on the surface of the sidewalk. After the surface of the track has completely dried, fill all the gaps between the tiles with a dry mixture. Spill the track one more time, while paying attention that the filler from the gaps between the tiles does not wash out.
	Surface cleaning. Remove excess mortar from the pavement surface to prevent it from setting. Make sure all joints are completely filled with mortar and the pavement is clear of grout. The cover is ready for use.

Step-by-step laying of paving slabs on a concrete base

	Terrain assessment and marking. For the correct outflow of rain and melt water, paving slabs are laid from the zero line - the lowest section of the site according to the plan. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the site should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large pitches are divided into lanes using pegs and leveling cords.
	Bed preparation. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sidewalk being constructed. Remove plant roots to avoid future sprouting. Remove excess soil from protruding areas and add those places where pits are observed, and carefully tamp the bottom. Pay special attention to places with loose soil.
	Backfilling of rubble. Fill the prepared bed with rubble with a layer of 10-15 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level, focus on the leveling cord.
	Compaction of crushed stone.
	Formwork installation. Formwork boards, more than 4 cm thick, install along the edges of the future site or sidewalk. Fasten the boards with stakes driven in at a distance of 60-100 cm from each other.
	Pouring concrete. Concrete is poured in a layer of 5-15 cm. To improve the strength characteristics, reinforcement is made with a road mesh. To do this, first concrete is laid with a layer of 3 cm, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it, then concrete is poured to the required height. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the concrete base in winter or with a large laying area, it is necessary to leave the so-called expansion joints of 0.5 cm every 3 meters.
	Leveling the concrete surface. Carefully level the surface of the concrete, taking into account the level of the base and the required slope.
	. Dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant curbs on the M100 mortar, and then pour them with concrete and fill with sand.
	Laying tiles. Moisten the concrete surface and lay the tiles on a 1-3 cm layer of cement-sand screed.
	Filling expansion joints. To protect against cracking, seal the expansion joints with an elastic filler.
	Filling gaps between tiles. Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, making sure that the mortar does not get on the front side of the stones. Remove excess grout from the tile surface immediately. The coating will be ready for use in 48 hours.

Installation cost and price of works per m2

The order of prices for laying paving slabs is given in the table below, these are average-weighted prices for the market. The table shows the work both per m 2 and per linear meter in rubles at the rate of 60 rubles. for $. Depending on the type of work. As well as the cost of related and additional work.

Name of works	Unit rev.	Price, rub.
excavation 40 cm; backfilling with sand 15 cm; with layer-by-layer compaction of crushed stone 20 cm and geotextile coating;	m 2	from 1800 rub.
Laying paving slabs on a turnkey basis, taking into account materials soil excavation 20-25 cm; backfilling with sand 15 cm; with layer-by-layer compaction of crushed stone 20 cm and geotextile coating; with tamping installation of curbstones and laying of paving slabs on the C.P.S.	m 2	from 1600 rub.
Paving with granite paving stones and laying the base from a dry cement-sand mixture, taking into account the cost of the necessary materials (the price depends on the complexity of the laying ornament. The price does not include granite paving stones)	m 2	2100 rub.
Laying paving slabs, the cost of work without materials trench trough 30 - 40 cm; backfilling with sand 10 - 15 cm with layer-by-layer compaction; crushed stone 15 - 20 cm with tamping and laying paving slabs on the central p.s.	m 2	from 650 rubles
Laying paving slabs on the finished base
Laying paving slabs on the finished base	m 2	450 rub.
Paving with granite paving stones on the finished base	m 2	950 rub.
Laying paving slabs on concrete	m 2	450 rub.
Laying paving slabs on mortar	m 2	550 rub.
Laying paving slabs on the sand	m 2	500 rub.
Laying paving slabs under the car	m 2	2250 rub.
Curb stone installation
Turnkey curb stone installation with material	p.m.	450 rub.
Installation of a curb stone without materials	p.m.	200 rub.
Installation of a garden border	PCS.	250 rub.
Road curb installation	PCS.	400 rub.
Preparation of the base for paving slabs
Foundation device made of crushed limestone, layer thickness 100 mm	m 2	100 rub.
Concrete base with road mesh reinforcement, layer thickness 150 mm. M-200 (without materials)	m 2	580 rub.
Concrete base device h = 100 mm with reinforcement (without materials)

Content

A permanent element used in the improvement of the local area is paving slabs. It is perfect for the driveway, garden paths, yard, recreation area. Many do not know how to properly lay paving slabs with their own hands, but if you know the technology, then even novice builders will find the process easy.

Ways of laying paving slabs

Such a coating used in landscaping, like paving slabs, is very popular and is often used by many owners of summer cottages, cottages and country houses. The material is relatively inexpensive, and the installation process is easy. The tile is distinguished by high quality characteristics - stability and load resistance during long-term operation, so it can be found not only on the streets / private houses, but also in playgrounds, cemeteries, and other places.

Many people ask the question: what to put paving slabs on? Construction professionals distinguish three types of installation:

• put on a concrete pad;
• put on the sand
• put on the ground (earth).

If you can’t lay the paving stones yourself, then you can always use the help of professionals, but such work will not be cheap. Prices per square meter are different for all masters, but the average price is approximately:

• turnkey for concrete - from 2000 rubles;
• turnkey for sand / gravel - from 1500 rubles;
• put on a finished base - from 500 rubles.

Given the high cost of the work, it is best to learn this business yourself, because the laying process is not so complicated. On the Internet / construction magazines you can find a lot of useful information (photos, videos, step-by-step instructions, diagrams) on laying tiles. The main requirements are endurance, perseverance, attentiveness. With these qualities, you can easily make a beautiful path in your country house or pave the floor for a gazebo.

The technique of paving tiles on concrete has both positive and negative nuances. Basically, this type of paving is used for the driveway in front of the garage, as it is able to withstand heavy loads. The thickness of the tile also plays a big role. A concrete screed is poured in the case when the cross-section of stone bars is more than six centimeters. The advantages include:

• greater strength of the coating, in contrast to the sand-cement cushion;
• smooth laying of paving stones due to the rigidity of the concrete base;
• lack of shrinkage and dips at the time of hardening;
• the possibility of landing on a special glue.

Before laying paving slabs on a concrete pad, you need to think about an important negative nuance - drainage. When installing paving stones on a sand-cement base, moisture escapes through a hygroscopic layer into deep soil. If you use concrete without taking care of drainage, the liquid will have nowhere to go, and it will begin to push the tile up. To prevent this from happening, it will be necessary to take care of the additional construction of storm drains or moisture collectors, the installation of layers of geotextiles.

Laying paving slabs on the sand

The most popular way of installing paving stones, which is often used in summer cottages and country houses for decorating paths, yards, floors in gazebos, is laying on a sand cushion. When thinking about how to lay paving slabs, many people decide on this economical, quick and easy option. When creating a sand-cement substrate, a number of specific rules should be followed:

1. Create a mixture of dry sand (be sure to screen out beforehand) and cement powder, calculating the components six to one (best with a concrete mixer).
2. Add water and stir well.
3. Before laying out the tiles, be sure to add gravel, pieces of clinker bricks or construction debris to the mortar to compact the future substrate.

Paving stones from a variety of materials can be laid on such a mixture: hard rocks (granite, basalt), less dense stone (slate, limestone), brick or ceramics. The choice depends on the desire of the buyer, price and intensity of use. For the driveway, it is best to choose a material that is stronger and wider, which can support the weight of the car on a daily basis and does not deteriorate over time. Paths, playgrounds and gazebos can be paved with any of the existing bars, the main thing is that the price and appearance suit you.

On earthen ground

Another simple laying method is directly on earthen ground. In order to make a path near a summer house or a country house, it is necessary to use a large tile that imitates natural stone. The price of these decorative elements is small, but they look very attractive. Paving is done in pre-prepared pits, and then ramming takes place using a special tool - a hammer with rubber tips (mallet). To know how to lay paving slabs on the ground, you do not need to be a master or a professional - this method is very easy and fast to use.

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands

So, how to lay out paving slabs with your own hands? First you need to prepare the tools:

• Master OK;
• mallet (rubber);
• tamper (either manual or purchased device);
• wooden pegs;
• lace-ordering;
• level;
• pipe of any diameter;
• watering can;
• rake;
• broom;
• mortar of cement, sand and stones.

How to lay paving slabs correctly:

1. Prepare the area for work: clear the debris, dig the soil in the required area, place marks (pegs) in the corners.
2. Stretch the ordering cord to calculate the amount of work to be done and stick to it exactly.
3. Plan the flow of water, drainage system.
4. Install the curbs in the required order around the perimeter on the liquid mortar, thereby determining the laying height.
5. Fill the work area with a sand-cement mixture and spread it evenly with a rake (you can run a thin pipe all over the area).
6. Pack the sand firmly.
7. Start laying the first row of tiles away from you, placing it strictly along the cord.
8. Place the "bricks" tightly, to avoid increasing the seams.
9. Use special crosses, inserting them between the plates, to accurately set the same gaps.
10. In the process of laying, monitor the level of sand under the paving stones - the excess must be removed, the missing one must be added.
11. Level the paving stones with a level and a mallet.
12. At the end of the work, fill the seams with a sand-cement mixture and pour plenty of water.