How to make a butterfly net. Making a landing net Improving the purchase option

In the 5th grade, students begin to study botany. From that time on, they begin to take a particular interest in youth work. The children willingly work on the school grounds, conduct observations in a living corner, landscaping the school, go on excursions, collect collections and herbariums.

For all these works, all kinds of equipment are required. Some of the inventory can be made in the "Skilled Hands" circle.

Stretcher

A stretcher for working on a school site for schoolchildren of grades 4-5 is made according to the dimensions indicated in Figure 110.

The handles of the stretcher are cut out of a board, preferably birch. The ends of the handles are slightly rounded. Boards 12-15 millimeters thick are nailed to the narrow edges of the handles, which form the flooring.

To make it more convenient to carry the earth and other bulk cargo, a side is installed on the stretcher - a box, the bottom of which is the flooring. It is best not to fasten the side tightly, but to make it removable. The four sides of the side, cut from a board approximately 1 centimeter thick, are fastened with nails, nailed to the bars installed at the corners with a section of 2 × 2 centimeters. The lower ends of the bars protrude beyond the edge of the side. They are inserted into square holes, hollowed out at the corners of the flooring.

Hoe and scoop

Members of the circle cannot make metal equipment for processing beds, since this requires processing thick iron. But in some cases, missing inventory items can be replaced with simplified ones.

For example, to destroy weeds in the ridges, instead of a “cat” - hoes with curved metal teeth - you can use homemade hoe very simple design. A spatula with a handle is cut out of a plank about 25 millimeters thick in the shape shown in Figure 111. Four or five nails 5-6 centimeters long are hammered into the spatula along the edges. The ends of the nails are processed with a file, making their points more elongated. The wooden handle of the hoe is rounded.

A scoop, which is often required for pouring seeds and fertilizers, can be made from a small tin can.

The jar is cut in half vertically (together with the bottom). A wooden block of the appropriate shape is attached to the remaining half of the bottom with nails. Previously, holes for the handle are made in it and in the tin bottom. Having cut out the handle of a round shape, its end on the glue is inserted into the hole for the handle and fixed with nails, driving them into the end of the block. The edges of the scoop are leveled with a file, and the corners are cut off to give them a rounded shape.

Shredded paper tray

In the living corner and in the classes of the juvenile circle, shallow baths are often required - when preparing preparations, washing the roots of plants for a herbarium, etc. The baths can be made from crushed paper.

A bath template of the desired size is cut out (or molded from clay) from the board. The template is covered with a sheet of thick paper. Cuts are made in the corners, the cut ends are bent along the sides of the template and glued. The edges of the paper are folded over to the underside of the template and lightly glued here.

1 - papier-mâché bath; 2 - botanist.

Then the template is pasted over with pieces of paper in approximately 15 layers or pasted over with paper pulp. When pasting the template with pieces of paper, after laying every four to five layers, they are dried. From above, the glued bath can be covered with another sheet of thick paper.

The bath is dried on the template. After that, the glued edges are cut, the finished bath is removed and painted on both sides three to four times with oil paint or nitro paint. After each painting, the bath is well dried, then painted again.

Such a bath is not afraid of water, it cannot warp if kept in a very hot place.

botanist

Plants collected during the excursion for the herbarium are put in a botanist. It has the appearance of a plywood trunk.

From a thin board or thick seven-nine-layer plywood, the side walls of the botanist are cut out. The approximate dimensions of the botanist are shown in Figure 112. A strip of thin plywood is glued to the edges of these walls and nailed with small carnations. Thin millimetric plywood can be bent dry, three-layer plywood must first be soaked in cold water.

Before nailing a strip of plywood, a rectangular hole is cut out in it - so that it falls in the middle of the wide side of the botanist. A door is made from a sawn rectangle. It is attached to the wall of the botanist with two pieces of dense fabric, which replace the loops, and a hook bent from wire is strengthened on the wall of the botanist. It is even more convenient to adapt an old wrist watch strap to fasten the cover. The end of the strap with a buckle is nailed to the wall of the botanist, the other end (with punctures) to the door. The cut off middle of the strap is used for loops.

The ends of a long lace or ribbon are nailed to the side walls of the botanist, which is worn over the shoulder during the collection of plants. The finished botanist is painted with stain (mordant) or oil varnish.

Instead of a botanist, you can take a herbarium press with you on an excursion and put plants in it.

herbarium press

For drying the collected plants use a special herbarium press; it is also called botanical. It consists of two wooden frames with wire mesh stretched over them. The usual dimensions of the press frames are 45 × 32 centimeters.

For each frame, two bars are cut out 45 centimeters long and two - 32 centimeters. The cross section of all the bars is 3 × 2 centimeters.

The bars can be connected at the corners in the simplest way - half a tree. The cut ends of the bars are glued with carpentry or casein glue and fastened with thin nails, bending their protruding ends. Do the same for the second frame. Grids are attached to the inner sides of the frames. The edges of the mesh can be covered with strips of millimetric plywood or cardboard.

If there is no finished mesh, you can weave it yourself from soft iron wire with a diameter of approximately 1 millimeter. To do this, two rows of holes are drilled in the frame in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the holes in a row is 15-20 millimeters. Through these holes, the wire is pulled from one side of the frame: the wire is pulled from one end of the frame to the other, here it is threaded into the hole and brought out to the other side of the frame, bent, pulled back through the adjacent hole, etc. First, the wire is pulled in one direction - parallel to the long sides of the frame. Then the wire is pulled across the frame, passing it alternately from above, then from below the longitudinal wires. There are other ways to make wire mesh, but the one described here is the simplest.

A simplified herbarium press is made without nets - from plywood. To do this, cut out two plywood rectangles measuring 45 × 32 centimeters. Holes are marked and drilled on plywood. The diameter of the holes is 5-6 millimeters, the distance between adjacent holes is from 10 to 20 millimeters. The more holes, the better the press. Plywood can be taken three- or five-layer.

The frame of the mesh press or the boards of the plywood press are etched with stain and coated with oil varnish. It is even better to paint the press with oil paint, enamel paint or nitro paint. The mesh should also be painted if it is not made of galvanized wire, but of simple iron.

The plant is placed in a press between sheets of paper, then the press is pulled together with straps or tied with ribbons.

net

The landing net is necessary for young naturalists to catch butterflies and other insects.

A ring with a diameter of about 30 centimeters is bent from a thick steel wire. For the handle of the net, a stick 110 centimeters long and approximately 15 millimeters in diameter is picked up or pulled out. Holes are pierced at one end of the stick and the bent ends of the wire are inserted into them. The stick together with the wire in this place is wrapped with thin wire or strong threads, which are lubricated with glue.

A net bag is cut out of muslin or gauze. Sew a strip of fabric to the top edge of the pattern. This strip is wrapped around a wire ring and sewn up. The edges of the pattern are sewn. The bottom of the bag is semicircular. You can’t make it pointed: insects will wrinkle their wings.

A net is also required for catching fish and insects from the aquarium when it is being cleaned. For such a wire net, not a ring is bent, but a square frame with slightly rounded corners. Gauze is taken more rare, but durable, wire - thicker. The bag is cut out the same as for a regular net, but it is made somewhat shorter. The size of the net is set depending on the size of the aquarium.

A net with a square hole is also useful for catching aquatic insects in a pond or river, as well as for catching insects living in the grass.

straightening

Butterflies caught for the collection and killed are dried in a spreader.

A rectangular plank 1 centimeter thick or more is cut out of linden or other soft wood. Two narrow boards are glued to it, the upper surface of which is planed at a slight slope to the inner longitudinal edge. The boards are strengthened so that between their thin edges there is a narrow groove, into which the butterfly's abdomen is laid. Butterfly wings are carefully straightened on planks, narrow strips of thin paper are placed on them, the ends of the strips are pinned with pins.

Any spread sizes. If it is made long, for the simultaneous drying of several butterflies, then it is better to fix the upper planks not parallel to each other, but at a slight angle, so that the groove is narrow at one end and wider at the other. In such a straightening it will be possible to place butterflies of different sizes, with thin and thick bellies.

Bird houses and feeders

As spring approaches, the pioneers begin to prepare for Bird Day. The task of the "Skillful Hands" circle is to prepare as many birdhouses and other houses for feathered friends as possible.

Bird houses must be made strictly following the necessary rules and dimensions. Sometimes it happens that the houses, which the pioneers spent a lot of work on making, remain uninhabited because they were not made correctly.

Birdhouses and other bird houses are hammered together with nails from boards 20-25 millimeters thick. Boards are planed with a planer on one side only; inside the houses they should be non-strict so that the birds can cling to them with their claws. It is better to make the roofs of the houses not flat, but convex - from a slab (the so-called boards cut off at the surface of the trunk) so that rainwater flows from them. The roof on all sides should protrude slightly above the walls, most of all in front, above the notch.

It is very important to correctly mark and cut the inlet - notch. Birds will not settle in the house if the entry in it is narrow or, conversely, too wide. The letok is made under the roof, at a distance equal to approximately the diameter of the letok. At the birdhouse below the notch, you can attach a wooden rod - a perch, but this is not necessary. In houses for small birds, no perches are needed.

Another important condition in the manufacture of a bird house is to put it together so that there are no gaps anywhere in it.

At the bottom of the house should be poured with a layer of up to 20 millimeters of dry sawdust; even better if they are mixed with peat.

Following the model of a birdhouse, you can make the same houses for tits, flycatchers and pied redstarts. However, the dimensions of these houses must be reduced: their height is 260 millimeters, their width is 120 millimeters, and the diameter of the notch is 35 millimeters.

Houses for redstarts and gray flycatchers are also made in a different form - as shown in Figure 116 (2) where the dimensions are given.

Instead of plank houses, you can make hollows of the same size. They are hollowed out with a chisel from round logs without removing the bark from them. It is easier to make a hollow if you cut the log lengthwise into two halves, hollow them out, and then tightly connect them. In figure 116, nest boxes are shown next to wooden houses corresponding to them in shape and size.

Birdhouses are hung near fields and meadows, at a height of at least 8 meters from the ground. Houses for tits and redstarts can be fixed at a height of 3 to 8 meters, near gardens and parks, and even better in the garden itself. Gam is hung up with houses for flycatchers and wagtails - at a height of 4 to 6 meters from the ground. Swifts often nest under the roofs of houses. It is better to strengthen the houses for them on poles on the roof - at a height of at least 9 meters above the ground. Letka all houses should be facing east or southeast.

Birds staying over the winter need to be fed. To this end, it is good to make feeders. The simplest feeder is a plank about 45 × 45 centimeters in size, along the edges of which sides 2-3 centimeters high are nailed so that the wind does not blow off the poured feed. To protect against snow, it is advisable to cover the feeder with a sloping roof, mounted on posts 10-15 centimeters high.

Terrarium

In a living corner, it is useful for young naturalists to have a small terrarium for observing reptiles and amphibians. We describe, slightly resized, a convenient terrarium designed by N. Belyakov.

The frame of the terrarium is knocked together from boards approximately 15-20 millimeters thick, cut as shown in Figure 117. The boards are connected with glue nails. The front edge of the top plank (roof) is cut at the same angle as the inclined side walls.

Along the front, inclined edges of the side walls, a rectangular ledge is cut out or cut out with a chisel from the inside. From above it is covered with narrow strips of plywood, tin or thick thick cardboard nailed to the edges of the walls. Grooves are obtained into which glass is pushed from above. It rests against the upper edge of the front wall, where they also make a ledge, but do not cover it with a strip.

An oval or rectangular hole is cut on one of the side walls. It is covered with a plank, nailed on top of the hole so that the plank can be pushed aside. Food is placed into the terrarium through this hole. You can also slide the glass out for cleaning.

Rice. 117. Terrarium.

From below, a bottom made of thick plywood and bars that serve as legs are nailed to the terrarium frame. The upper part of the back wall is tightened with a metal mesh or, in extreme cases, with a rare muslin.

The finished terrarium is covered with drying oil and stain, painted with oil paint on the outside.

In the terrarium for animals, conditions are created that are close to natural: they pour sand, lay turf, stones, moss, put a bath with water, etc.

The dimensions of the terrarium can be increased or decreased.

Incubator

Members of the “Skillful Hands” circle can make a valuable gift to young naturalists of a rural school by making an incubator in which chickens can be bred. We describe here an incubator made by students of the 6th school in the city of Zagorsk, Moscow Region. This incubator is designed for 35-50 eggs. If desired, the size of the incubator can be reduced: make it, for example, 20 eggs.

The incubator box according to the dimensions indicated in Figure 118 is made of thick (five-layer) plywood or thin boards, carefully sealing the joints between them so that there are no gaps. There is a glazed door in the front wall. Around the edges it should be upholstered with a soft cloth.

Inside the box, in the middle of its long walls, two planks are nailed. An egg tray is laid on them - a sheet of plywood with holes cut into it in the shape of an egg. The holes must be positioned so that the eggs do not touch each other.

To heat the incubator, six 40-watt electric bulbs are installed in it: two each on the lid and on the bottom, one each on the narrow side walls. The lamps are connected to the lighting network in parallel, but have a common switch installed outside on one of the walls of the incubator. To make wiring to the lamps and install a switch, you must ask high school students.

It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature in the incubator: from the 1st to the 14th day of incubation, it should be +38.5 degrees Celsius, from the 15th day until the end of the hatching of the chickens, +39 degrees. To monitor the temperature, two thermometers are hung on the back wall of the incubator, against the glass door: one is above the tray, the other is below it. The temperature is regulated by turning out one or two bulbs when overheated and increasing ventilation.

Rice. 119. Ovoscope.

For ventilation, holes are cut out at opposite ends of the lid and bottom of the incubator, which are covered with valves - plywood lids attached to the box with loops or strips of durable fabric. The hole in the lid of the incubator should be larger than in the bottom: this creates better traction. To increase ventilation, open both valves, to reduce it, cover the upper hole to half or close the lower valve. Towards the end of incubation, ventilation can be increased by opening the door for a while.

It is very important to maintain the humidity of the air inside the incubator. To do this, at the bottom near the side walls there are stands on which strips of plywood lie. A strip of flannel or other soft and thick fabric, 15 millimeters wide, is laid on plywood. The ends of these strips are brought out through the holes in the bottom of the incubator and lowered into jars of water placed below. Thanks to this, the fabric remains moist all the time, and the air is also moistened. To determine the percentage of humidity inside the incubator, a psychometer can be attached to the back wall.

The incubator is installed on any stand so that its lower ventilation hole is not closed. It is even better to install the incubator on skids with rounded ends. By placing a wooden block on one side of the runners, then on the other, the incubator is slightly tilted (by 5-7 °), due to which the eggs also change the slope. This is important for uniform heating of them. In this case, the eggs do not often need to be turned by hand, once again opening the door.

To view the eggs inside and follow the development of the embryo, do ovoscope(Fig. 119). It is a plywood box with an electric light bulb inside, and cutouts for laying eggs are made on top. The light bulb below shines through the eggs.

Automatic bird drinker

Circle members can make a useful thing for the school animal corner - an automatic bird drinker.

A stand is made from the scraps of the board, which has the shape of an overturned letter "G". A saucer or frying pan is placed on the bottom plate of the stand. A bottle is attached to the vertical board of the stand with wire or strips of tin so that its neck falls slightly below the edge of the saucer, but does not touch its bottom. Water, pouring out of the bottle, will stay in the saucer all the time at the level of the neck. Air pressure (atmospheric pressure) on the surface of the water in the saucer keeps the water in the bottle and prevents it from pouring out immediately. The surface of water in a bottle is smaller than in a saucer. Therefore, the air pressure in the bottle is less. When installing a bottle filled with water, its neck, of course, is first covered.

Later in the classroom, students will learn that the mercury barometer works on the same principle.

Seed sample box

A handy box with many compartments for seed samples can be made from matchboxes.

Matchboxes of the same size are selected, stacked in several rows (as shown in Fig. 121) and glued together. To do this, cardboard spacers are placed between the horizontal rows of boxes, and the cases of the boxes are glued to them. Outside, the folded boxes are pasted over with cardboard walls on all sides, except for the front. The back wall is made a little higher, and the name of the collection is written on the ledge. The cardboard case is pasted over with colored paper on top.

Each box is glued inside with thick white paper, and a label is glued on the outside on the front wall. It has a serial number written on it. A list of seed names under the same numbers can be glued on the top side of the cardboard case.

To make it more convenient to pull the boxes out of the nests, a paper tongue is glued to each of them or a thread loop is attached.

A net for fishing (its other names: landing net, landing net) is considered an important and actively used accessory for the angler.

Why is it needed and is it needed at all? For experienced anglers, this question is not worth it. Firstly, the landing net provides an invaluable service in the process of playing the caught fish, especially large fish and in places overgrown with vegetation. Another reason for the importance of using a landing net is that many anglers manage to catch trophy fish and landing nets reduce the risk of breaking the rod from its large weight.

Here is an incomplete list of arguments that allow us to conclude how much a net is needed when fishing.

Advantages of a homemade net

Many anglers prefer to make their own net before fishing, rather than buying it from a store, for a number of reasons:

Most purchased nets are made from dark-colored fishing line, and such colors, as practice shows, affect the quality of the catch. The dark color scares away the fish.
Nets bought in the store have a large windage, and this negatively affects the speed of approaching the net to the caught fish.
Reliability. Making a net on their own, the angler himself is responsible for its quality. He is interested in making a net that is reliable and durable in operation.
Decent price for a bag. This factor also scares off potential buyers, since the cost of a net often does not match the quality. Having paid a considerable amount for it, anglers are faced with the need to replace it after a short period of time. When manufactured independently, its cost is much lower, due to the fact that almost all components of the net are made from improvised materials.

How to make a net yourself

The easiest to manufacture and design is a homemade net - non-separable.

Material for manufacturing and what is better to use:

Its amount required to make a net will depend on the size of this device. It is recommended to use a thick line of light shades.

Hoop. The material for its manufacture can be a duralumin tube with a diameter of about 9 mm, bent reed or iron wire with a diameter of up to 6 mm, and an old tennis racket is also perfect.

Net handle. For its manufacture, dry and light wood is often used, a ski pole is suitable, and if possible, it is better to take bamboo.

Net bag. The easiest option is to buy a net of thick fishing line in a specialized store, or you can tie the bag yourself.
Additionally, you should stock up on electrical tape, thick thread and soft, preferably copper or aluminum wire.

Knots used when tying a net

Knots are a special way of connecting fishing line or ways of forming loops. Knitting any knot is a simple matter. The main thing is to learn how to knit it correctly, efficiently and quickly enough, and this requires at least a little practice.

All knots used in fishing are subject to a number of requirements dictated by the very practice of their use. He must:

Simple, quick and easy to knit.
Have a small consumption of material.
Do not untie under load.
Under variable loads, do not creep, that is, have sufficient strength.
Comply with your assignments.

When self-tying a bag in a net, several types of knots are used.

The most common and frequently used are:

Straight knot.

Russian (oblique with stoppers).

Skew knot.

Shkotovy double.

The most common of these nodes is the straight line. It is used when knitting a bag with small cells, while the consumption of fishing line or thread is small. The speed of knitting a bag with this knot is quite high. But there are small disadvantages of using it: after a while, the cells and mesh of the bag are deformed (especially in a bag knitted from fishing line), the knots do not have great holding power.

The process of knitting with a clew is quite fast and at the same time the material consumption is small. It has sufficient holding power. But under heavy loads, lying on the threads arranged crosswise, the cells of the bag are deformed. This knot is not recommended when knitting a bag of fishing line and nylon threads.

The most reliable types of knots are Russian and clew double knots. But compared to straight and simple clew, the material consumption is much higher, and the knitting speed is lower.

Manufacturing process

The process of making a net yourself is simple.

To make it high-quality, light, reliable and durable, you should strictly follow the technology and sequence of manufacturing:

Weave a net bag or buy a ready-made woven fabric.
Make a hoop for attaching the bag.
Prepare the landing net handle.
Connect all the parts together into a single structure.

Weaving your own canvas for a net

Before starting to tie the knots of the net, you should prepare a shuttle, the so-called. needle. For its manufacture, a sheet of aluminum (plastic), about 20 centimeters long, is suitable. To make it easier to work with the fishing line, a small hole with a tongue is made in the very center of the aluminum sheet. The fishing line in the process of weaving knots should not unwind and interfere with work. Although, in order not to waste time on making a shuttle, you can buy it in a special store.

In weaving, a special ruler with parameters of 130-160 mm is useful. It must also be made from any durable improvised material. Its use is necessary to facilitate the knitting of knots (you can use any, but were not sliding).

Having decided what size of cells should be knitted in a landing net bag, let's get to work:

A ruler is taken in the left hand, and a needle with a fishing line wound in advance in the right hand.
Pick up the loop with the index finger of the right hand, put it on the ruler, pull it out from under it from the back side. Then 2 loops are made around the index finger, on which the loop is already located, threaded under the ruler and drawn into a large loop. After performing these manipulations, two loops are formed on the left hand.
Supporting the thread of the loop with your finger, drop the first one, then pull up the needle.
Adjust the exact position of the knot on the ruler, press it with your finger and pull the needle over the ruler, while lowering the remaining loop from the left hand.
Tighten the knot well.

To obtain a cylindrical shape, the net is knitted in a circle. The optimal depth of the tied bag should be 70-80 cm, and the size of its cells 25-30 mm (depending on the size of the fish). When the size of his canvas is sufficient, you should gradually narrow and reduce the number of loops in it to zero. In order for the landing net to keep its shape, you must try to tighten the last knot well.

If the canvas for the landing net was not connected, but bought in a store, then you need to make a cylinder out of it, pulling the bottom edge into a bundle. Attach a small weight to the bottom of the bag. It is necessary so that when lowered into the water, the mesh sinks well, and does not float on the surface.

Hoop (base) for net

From a pre-prepared material (iron wire, a duralumin tube), an oval or round hoop is bent. For catching small fish, the base can be made with a diameter of up to 35 cm; for larger fish, many anglers prefer to use a triangular hoop with sides of 45-50 cm.

Having bent the hoop of the desired shape, leave paired branches of 10-15 cm in size from it, with the expectation that the handle of the net will lie tightly between the branches.

Making a handle for a net

For it, a light and well-dried tree rod is taken, usually from 1 m to 1.5 m long (as it suits you), with a thickness of 25-27 mm, the surface is treated with sandpaper or wrapped with tape.

Connect the finished parts of the landing net into a single structure:

Fasten the bag of the net on the frame, and wrap the edges of the frame with a strong nylon thread. It is recommended to wrap in several layers. Such a winding will give the net transparency, protect the fishing line from damage on stones and sharp objects in the water.
Fasten the handle of the net with its bag put on the base with soft wire. To keep the rim from moving, you can also use a clamp to secure it to the handle (it is often used in plumbing work and in cars).

This fishing gear is simple and has long been used to catch fish, preventing anglers from being left without a catch. A large number of its advantages compensate for the inconvenience that occurs during its transportation (carrying).

Features of the manufacture of a folding net

Compared to a conventional long net, the folding net is considered to be more convenient. When folded, it is a tube-handle, hollow inside and closed with caps on both sides.

Making your own folding landing net is very simple. The handle, as in a regular net, can be any hollow tube of a suitable size. The landing net rim is bent from a duralumin rod with a diameter of not more than 8 mm of the desired size and shape. Departing from the middle by 10-15 cm, this twig is cut into 2 halves. At the shortened part of the rim near the cut point, the end is straightened at a distance of 7 mm and a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled in the end face. The shortened end is then bent again. The end of the elongated part should be cut down so that it can fit snugly into the hole made.

The opposite ends of the rim of the net are bent and filed down to then make a common thread for screwing into the rim sleeve. The mesh can be tied with rings with a diameter of 10 mm, made from brass wire. On any two adjacent rings, a small a piece of rubber tubing up to 12 cm long and up to 6 mm in diameter. The design of the folding net is ready!

How to improve a purchased net for yourself (which is usually a complaint)

It would seem that among such a variety of nets on the market, it is very easy to choose the one that will meet all the requirements.

But often having bought a net, after some time disappointment may come for some reasons:

Fine mesh in the net bag, and this affects the size of the fish caught.
The handle of the net does not fit the length.
Poor quality of knitting of loops, which leads to their uneven stretching or tearing.
Poor quality of the product itself.

How to fix deficiencies or improve landing net for yourself:

If you are not satisfied with the mesh of the bag, then you can change it yourself by buying it with the desired cell size or tying it yourself.
If you are not satisfied with the length of the handle, then if it is long - shorten it, if it is short - replace it with another one that is suitable in length.
With a low quality of knitting loops, it is recommended to independently change the mesh in the bag for a new one by tying or buying another one.
If the quality of the landing itself is not satisfied, refuse to purchase, and in the future choose and purchase only the product from trusted manufacturers.

When making a net, it is better to make the handle longer, otherwise it will be simply inconvenient for them to catch.
The width of the net itself should be at least 60 cm. It is much more convenient to use a large diameter net than a small one.
Use a net with light-colored fishing line.
It is recommended to use nets with an egg-shaped hoop, as there is more opportunity for landing large fish.
The size of the hoop is selected depending on the size of the intended prey. For fish up to 3 kg, a landing net with a 50:35 cm hoop is suitable, and for large fish it is better to use a landing net with a hoop size of 55:85 cm.
You should not lift a large fish by the handle of the juice, for the reason that it can break.
The most reliable are nets with a duralumin handle that can withstand a significant weight of the catch and not deform.
The net handle can be composite or solid. Using a solid handle is more reliable (it breaks less often), and a folded one is more convenient for transportation (carrying).
The stronger the material from which the bag is made, the more reliable it is.
Always a guarantee of a good and high-quality purchase is a product from well-known manufacturers, combined with an affordable price.
These little tips you need to consider when going fishing. The main thing to remember is that fishing comfort and the amount of catch often depend on little things.

In spring and summer, it's so great to spend the whole day in the fresh air, because at this time everything around is so pleasing to the eye: an abundance of greenery, flowers, butterflies. Speaking of butterflies! Which of us in early childhood did not like to run after them with homemade nets? Imagine with what zeal and enthusiasm your child will do this. The only thing left is to make a net!

Of course, the net is easiest to buy in a store or on the market, but making it yourself will be much more interesting, especially since there is nothing complicated about it.

If you do not know how to make a net with your own hands, we offer a brief instruction:

You need to start by preparing the handle for the net. It is advisable to find a solid wooden (necessarily as even as possible) club, 2-3 cm thick. It must be cleaned of splinters.

The next step in the design of a homemade net will be the manufacture of a hoop. For this, a rigid and elastic steel wire up to 1 meter long is useful. It is best that its diameter is at least 3 mm. It is also important to observe the classic circle shape for the hoop. The circle among all other geometric shapes has the largest area with a minimum perimeter. In addition, the rigidity of a round net will be an order of magnitude higher than a square or triangular one. Wire can be most easily bent using a tree trunk. You just need to choose the required diameter of the barrel.

After the hoop is bent, it must be attached to the handle of our net. This is best done with soft wire. The main rule: the hoop should be attached to the handle as tightly as possible.

Well, the last step will be the manufacture of the bag. The material for it will perfectly serve as gauze or tulle. You can also use a used mosquito net. The material should be cut in the shape of a triangle and stitched. You will get a cone that is easily attached to the hoop.

The net is made by hand. Your children will definitely like to try it in action, and you yourself will not hurt to once again plunge into childhood and cheer yourself up.

In the meantime, look at the video for another option for creating a net for catching butterflies:

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How to make:: butterfly net

Every child is delighted with catching butterflies with a net. Therefore, to please yourself with your child, try to make a net yourself. After all, it is so exciting and interesting: you will do something with your hands and spend time with your child. In addition, making a net with your own hands is quite easy and fast.

In order to make a net, we need:

Stick with a diameter of 10-15 mm.

Coil of steel wire

A piece of gauze.

Here is such a simple set in order to make a net.

Take a stick with a diameter of no more than 10-15 mm. The stick must be well processed so that both you and the child do not splinter your hand. If the stick is serrated, sand it, you can varnish or varnish it.

Now we make a steel ring. Cut the wire with wire cutters. The length depends on the diameter of the ring and on your preferences.

The optimal length is 0.7-1m. The wire should be no more than 3 mm. Now make an arc. To make it, just wrap it around a tree trunk. Nets can be of various shapes: round, rectangular, square. But the most reliable net shape is a circle. This form is both rigid and occupies a maximum of space with a minimum of perimeter. In addition, the circle is also convenient in that the fabric does not wear out as much as on a rectangular shape. The presence of hard corners contributes to the rapid wear of the fabric. But make the hoop, taking into account the fact that the ends with a hanging fabric measuring 10-15 cm should remain.

From the remaining ends you should make two shoulders. One shoulder should be longer than the other. Bend them down perpendicular to the circumference of the shoulder. Bend the ends of these shoulders down. Bend the ends of the shoulders inside the structure. Do this very carefully, as you and your child can be seriously injured with them. In the correct scenario, such a design should lie in the same plane. Fastening to the handle The fastening of the handle must be very strong, as a falling stick will only interfere with your activity with the child. Therefore, make the mount strong. To make such a fastening, you must drill two holes in the handle, the depth of the holes must be at least 1 cm. Only in this way the fastening of the handle will be reliable. Such holes must be drilled on a par with the shoulders. The ends of the shoulders are hammered into these holes. An indicator of reliability will be considered that the shoulders should fit snugly against the handle. Now we need to attach them. To do this, wrap them with wire to the handle. Fasten tightly.

A soft fabric, such as gauze, is suitable for the bag; it should be dense and durable. Make the bag so that it has as few corners as possible. This will be more convenient for you, otherwise insects are hammered into the corners. To fix the bag on the hoop, you need to buy a wide ribbon and sew it onto the hoop so that the wire remains inside, attach the bag itself to this ribbon.

The butterfly net is ready!

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Butterfly net

vrednayal5 18-07-2014, 12:40 9 773 Accessories / Wire

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For the independent production of a net, I was inspired by the children, for whom the nets purchased in the store were either with short sticks, or the diameter of the net itself was too small. So I decided to make my own net.

To make it I needed:

Bamboo stick (support for plants), - mesh (sold in fabric stores), - very thick and better almost non-bending wire, - thin and flexible wire (not much is needed: 20-30cm), - threads and a needle
First, we make a circle from a thick wire, and connect it with 2 ends like this:
Next, we sheathe this circle with a mesh. I first sheathed, and then cut off the unnecessary fabric and gave the necessary shape in the form of a triangle. And I sewed 2 edges of the mesh to make a kind of cap. Then, connecting the edges of the wire, I inserted them directly into the stick (there was the right hole in it). And I fixed the structure with a thin wire, tying the circle of the net to the stick. That's basically it. The advantage of such a net is that you yourself regulate the diameter of the net and the length of the stick.

The dimensions of the finished net in my case were as follows:

the length of the stick is about 120 cm, the diameter of the circle is about 30 cm, and, accordingly, the length of the whole structure is about 1.5 m. With this net, children perfectly catch May beetles. In conclusion, I will only add that if you do not want to buy bamboo supports separately, find a suitable stick in the forest. It won't get any worse.

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How to make a net with your own hands

Summer has come, insects have appeared - beetles, butterflies, dragonflies. Does your child have a net? If not, then the net is easy to make with your own hands. Try making a butterfly net with your child.

We make a net with our own hands

To make a net yourself, prepare the necessary materials. You will need:

wooden or plastic stick for the net handle;
wire 0.7-1m long;
bag fabric.

First, prepare the wooden handle for the net. If you have a suitable stick (maybe left from an old net) with a diameter of 1.5 cm, then measure the length of the handle. Be guided by the growth of your baby to comfortably hold the net in your hands. If the stick is rough, it must be carefully sanded. You do not need splinters in children's fingers.

Now take a steel wire with a diameter of at least 3 mm. From it you need to make an arc for the net. You can make a circle, triangle, star or any other shape out of wire. However, the simplest in execution is a round shape.

The hoop must be made taking into account the fact that the ends of the wire should remain, which will have to be fixed on the handle of the net. Bend the wire into a circle, bend the ends perpendicular to the arc.

Remember, this entire structure must lie in the same plane.

Attach a wire arc to the net handle. To do this, drill two holes in the handle. You will need to thread the ends of the wire through these holes. So that the wire circle does not hang out, you can slightly deepen the ends of the wire into a wooden handle, after making notches there.

To prevent the baby from getting hurt by the ends of the wire, wrap the junction with electrical tape or a fabric patch.

It remains to make a bag. For a bag, it is better to use a fine mesh (nylon filter cloth, tulle, organza or plain gauze is suitable). Cut the fabric bag into a triangle. you can attach the bag to the hoop of the net using a wide tape. Fold the ribbon in half along the length, put it on the hoop and sew it to the bag. Your net is ready!

A soft cloth, such as gauze, is suitable for this. It is better to sew the bag so that it has a minimum number of corners. This is necessary so that insects do not clog in them. In order to attach the finished bag to the hoop, you need to take a ribbon of durable fabric about ten centimeters wide, fold it in half lengthwise and put it on the hoop. Sew a bag to the bottom of this tape. The net is ready!

Well, in the end, I want to offer you an interesting New Year's Eve video that can be very useful to you or your child!

In order to make a net, we need:

Stick with a diameter of 10-15 mm.

Coil of steel wire

A piece of gauze.

Here is such a simple set in order to make a net.

We make a net handle and a ring with a mount

Now we make a steel ring. Cut the wire with wire cutters. The length depends on the diameter of the ring and on your preferences.

Making a bag for a net

The butterfly net is ready!

The world of insects is so wide and varied that it provides every child with accessible and plentiful material for his biological observations. Insects are found everywhere: in the country, in the yard, among the greenery of parks, on undeveloped wastelands, which are densely overgrown with weeds. On the forest edges and park lawns, among green foliage and near water surfaces, parallel to our world, there is another, no less interesting world. A world in which the life of mustachioed beetles and industrious ants, light-winged butterflies and swift dragonflies, slow-moving caterpillars and bloodthirsty mosquitoes is in full swing ... This world leaves a lot of impressions in the soul of a child.

Hunting for insects is quite an exciting activity. It captures both very young and adult lovers of wildlife. To take a closer look and observe a single insect, a little is needed. In the arsenal of the “hunter” there should be at least a magnifying glass, a net and a jar with a gauze mesh instead of a lid.

With a magnifying glass and a jar, most often there is no problem, but a net ... well, it is not always present in our markets. But don't worry! it is easy to make it yourself.

For the base of the net you will need:

thick (3-4 mm) wire,
gauze piece,
long stick
insulating tape.

An old mattress spring is very good for these purposes. You can look for wire in specialized stores. You can ask junk dealers, friends and neighbors ... and you need 1 meter.

On the wire we measure from one end - 12 cm - we bend at a right angle, from the other - 8 cm - we also bend at a right angle. The rest must be bent into a ring see picture. We also bend the very ends and sharpen with a file. These "spikes" are necessary for fastening to a wooden stick. If the stick is made of another material, it is not necessary to sharpen the ends.

Ideally, the gauze mesh would need to be sewn not directly to the hoop, but to a more durable fabric that could be worn with a drawstring on the hoop. But our case was from the series “too unbearable to get married” (see our version of the net below), so we sewed gauze directly onto the hoop - it was enough for one summer.

How to tailor a bag for a net can be clearly seen from the attached drawing.

In old books, it is recommended to dye the fabric for the net in dark green. Explaining this by the fact that in this case, the net will not scare insects. Everything can be. Our net, indeed, frightened insects, either with its white color, or with swift swings. Then it allowed ... both insects and us))).

The length of the stick should be convenient for the “hunter”, but not longer, as practice has found out - 130 cm.

It is easiest to catch flying, as well as sitting on a flower, insects by bringing the net from the side. So that the insect does not fly out of the net unexpectedly, we advise you to work out a simple trick - turn the net so that the bag overlaps the hoop and the fabric of the bag closes the exit from the net. It’s probably not worth reminding that you need to carefully remove the insect from the bag so as not to crush it - they are painfully “tailored” from fragile material)).

It is not easy to catch insects that sit in thick grass (for example, nettles). But there is a trick here too. If you wave the net over the grass in a movement reminiscent of mowing grass, then after several such movements, you will definitely find your “prey” in the net.

But for catching insects in water bodies, the net needs to be longer and the stick should be made of stronger material for such a case. As well, the bag should be made of a denser fabric. This is no longer a simple, but a special net turns out.

Yes! And don't forget to take a variety of jars and boxes with you. Otherwise, you will not know where to put your “loot”. Entomologists (insect specialists) usually put a piece of cotton wool soaked in an insect killer in such a “dishes”. But you are not going to write a doctoral dissertation, so the most humane thing would be to release insects into the wild, after studying and admiring them, of course.