How to plan an orchard. Ideal garden: how to plan it right? Laws of rational distribution

A garden and a kitchen garden are integral attributes of any suburban area. To break them, you do not need to be an experienced gardener - it is enough to have a minimum knowledge of the issue and, of course, good instructions.

Let's start with the fact that making a garden from scratch is much more difficult, because it will grow not for a year, but for several decades, so many points have to be taken into account. Something, perhaps, will be planted in the wrong place, and years later these mistakes will make themselves felt. For example, a common mistake novice gardeners make is an overly deep root neck of seedlings.

The process is quite laborious and consists of several important steps. Let's get acquainted with the features of each of them.

Stage one. Choose a site

Much attention is paid to the choice of a suitable site - the relief, type of soil, depth of groundwater, degree of protection from wind and other important conditions are assessed. Thanks to agrochemical analyzes, it is possible to determine the level of soil acidity and the concentration of nutrients, which will later help with watering, top dressing, and liming. Determining the depth of groundwater will allow you to determine the measures to minimize their negative impact. In a word, the laying of a garden should be carried out only after preliminary preparation, and gardeners must be aware of some aspects of land valuation.

Note! A number of additional measures will help to make even land unsuitable for trees suitable (for example, drainage).

Relief

Gardens grow best on slopes with a steepness of no more than 8 degrees. The direction of the slope is also important - it should be south, which means warm and well lit. Do not plant a garden in a hollow, because water accumulates there and cold air stagnates.

But the relief of most suburban areas is flat, without depressions and slopes, so there is no need to choose.

The soil

Fruit trees, as you know, have a fairly powerful root system, which goes deep vertically and spreads widely to the sides. This means that the nutrient medium is required in large volumes. It is for this reason that horticultural crops develop better on powerful soil, which contains the required supply of elements, and is sufficiently (but not too) moistened. In this case, marshy, rocky, strongly podzolized and clayey terrain is completely unsuitable.

As for the subsoil, it should be moisture and breathable.

Apple trees require black soil, sandy loam or soddy soil. It is important that the earth is loose and wet, however, apple trees do not tolerate excess moisture.
Plums need moist and nutrient-rich loamy soil. They do not tolerate a lack of moisture and dry air.
Cherries are best planted on not too steep slopes with sandy soil.
Pears will grow best in light loamy soil.

ground water

Areas with a high level of groundwater flow are dangerous for garden trees, because plants do not live long in such places. The roots, reaching the water, die due to oxygen deficiency, then the ends of the branches in the crown dry, and later the knots. Plants grow very slowly and soon die.

If you plan to plant apple trees, then groundwater should be no closer than 2 m. For stone fruits (cherries, cherries, apricots), which have deep roots, this figure is 1.5 m. water may be even less.

About satellites of fruit trees

Some forest trees grow in the same conditions as fruit trees. It has been proven that if oak, linden or maple grows well on or near the site, then fruit crops will develop quite successfully. But alder and horsetail testify to the swampiness of the site, which means that it must first be cultivated. Thanks to all these signs, you can find out if the land is suitable for a garden.

Wind protection

Many gardeners know that the wind has a detrimental effect on the garden. In winter, it blows snow off the ground, increasing the risk of freezing of the root system. Large snowdrifts along the perimeter destroy the crowns. As for the hot summer winds, they dry out the soil and prevent normal pollination by insects. Young plantings are swayed by the wind, which is why the roots of seedlings take root more slowly. Finally, with a strong gusty wind, not only leaves are torn off and branches are broken, but the trees themselves are falling down.

Harsh winds are especially dangerous in harvest years, when most of the fruits can fall to the ground in just a day. To avoid all this, a windbreak is required - a great way to preserve the crop and protect the plants from damage. For protective plantings, it is best to use fast-growing trees and shrubs, but they will not be effective until several years after planting. Therefore, wind protection should be taken care of at least two to three years before laying the garden. Also, the role of wind protection can be played by outbuildings, natural hills and a nearby forest.

More than others, tree species such as oak, poplar, birch, linden are suitable for wind protection. If shrubs are used, then it is better to give preference to yellow acacia, mountain ash, hazel and wild rose.

Note! There are clear distances at which protective trees and bushes should be placed. For trees, this is about 1-1.2 m (inside the row) and 1.5-2 m (between rows), for shrubs - 0.5-0.7 m and 0.7-1 m, respectively.

Stage two. Plot layout

The land should be used rationally, and there should be no room for weeds and various pests. In other words, the site should be densely planted. Fruit crops need light, and their roots need soil nutrition. Moreover, with proper placement, the garden itself will be more attractive.

Before you start learning, you need to plan everything. As a rule, gardeners use the same layouts, which may differ depending on the relief features, climate and the preferences of the gardeners themselves. One such diagram is shown below.

Of the eight to ten apple trees, five should be of the winter variety, two of the summer variety, and two more of the autumn variety. It also provides for the creation of gazebos and recreation areas, planting flower crops.

Note! Pears, apple trees should be planted 5-6x4 m apart, while plums and cherries - somewhere in 3x2.5 m. You can plant undersized representatives of the same varieties between rows of tall crops.

These undersized plants are less durable, their fruiting will end by the age of twenty. At the same time, the crowns will reach full development, they will become too crowded, and you can get rid of the trees.

Stage three. Choice of landing date

In the central regions, it is better to plant a garden in early spring, that is, before the buds swell (this is especially important for cherries). In the south, gardens are usually planted in autumn. More importantly, in the spring, planting should be carried out before the seedlings begin to grow, and in the fall - during leaf fall.

Also note that before digging seedlings, it is necessary to remove the leaves. The fact is that moisture entering the plant evaporates through the leaves, and if they are not removed, then the likelihood of successful survival will decrease. The leaves are removed carefully, while trying not to damage the kidneys.

Stage four. Soil preparation

To obtain a good harvest, a deep arable layer of soil is required. As a rule, the root systems of fruit crops go into the ground to a depth of 0.8 m, which means that processing and fertilization should be carried out by the same amount. To do this, it is better to use a small plantation plow.

Stage five. Selection of seedlings

They must be purchased from a nursery that is located in the same region as the future garden, otherwise there will be a risk that the plants will not take root. The roots should be branched, long (more than 30 cm), not frostbitten, on the cut - white. Quality seedlings have straight trunks, with smooth bark and no visible defects. Finally, the crown should consist of at least three or four well-developed branches, which are directed in different directions, and without fail with a conductor (i.e., a leading shoot).

As for the age at which trees should be planted, the opinions of gardeners differ. Some plant mature plants (eight or nine years old), which quickly bear fruit, but are quite expensive, and it is quite difficult to plant them. Others buy two- and three-year-olds, which are somewhat behind in terms of fruiting, but are cheaper.

Stage six. Seedling preparation

The procedure consists of two simple steps. Let's consider them.

Step 1. Roots

The largest roots are cut so that the cut area "looks" at the bottom of the pit. To do this, you need to use a garden knife (not a pruner, because it kneads the wood and does not give an even cut). If the seedlings were obtained in the fall, but will be planted in the spring, then after pruning they are immersed in a clay solution and buried in the ground for a while (this will prevent drying).

Step 2. Crown

The length of the roots of dug out seedlings does not exceed 35-40 cm, while most of them (the roots), and this is about 70%, remain in the ground. But the aerial part remains the same, which is why the truncated root system can no longer properly “feed” it. Therefore, the branches in the crown should be cut to about a third of the length.

Note! It is more convenient to cut the branches after planting - so a person can not only see their placement relative to each other, but also do the work with both hands.

Stage six. Digging planting holes

During the first two years after planting, the roots are within the planting hole, which means that they use moisture and nutrients from there. Therefore, at first, young plants should be provided with the best conditions for development.

The diameter and shape of the planting pits may vary, but for uniform and proper root development, it is desirable to make round pits tapering down.

Note! There is an opinion that on clay soils, the bottom of the pit should be covered with a sandy "cushion", and on sandy soils - with clay. This is allegedly necessary for water retention. In reality, everything is not so.

Pits for spring planting should be prepared in the fall, while for autumn - about a month in advance. Moreover, in the first case, before frosts, the pits should be covered with fertilized earth, but not tamped.

Stage seven. Landing

We’ll make a reservation right away that it’s not worth filling up the root necks - when the soil settles, they should be flush with its surface. In principle, planting is the most important stage, it is on it that the yield, survival rate and life expectancy of trees depend. It is quite difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to eliminate the mistakes made here in the future.

The most common mistake is considered to be a deep landing, which can be discovered only after a few years. Raising a deeply planted tree is difficult, and a novice gardener will definitely not be able to cope with this, moreover, he can even ruin the plant.

Note! If groundwater is too close to the surface, then plants cannot be planted in pits - soil mounds are created instead. For this, the landing sites are first dug up, then mounds of fertilized earth are poured on them (width - 100 cm, height - 45-50 cm). Seedlings are planted on such mounds and tied to wooden pegs.

A few words about the landing board

When the landing sites are marked, and the stakes are ready, you can proceed directly to the digging. In order to avoid violation of straightness, a stake must be driven in the center of each pit.

It is not easy to do this “by eye”, so you can resort to one simple device - the so-called landing board. For its manufacture, a board with approximate dimensions of 200x15x2 cm is used. A triangular cutout is made in the middle of one side of this board. Similar cuts are made along the edges, 75 cm from the center, as shown in the images.

Such a board will allow you to install pegs to which seedlings will be tied, exactly in the center of the pits. Next, the plants are tied to pegs as shown below.

After planting, trees need to be looked after, fertilized and watered, but here everything depends on the specific tree species.

Video - Features of caring for fruit trees

Creation of a garden on the site

Ideally, the garden should consist of beds located in a sunny place and protected from the wind by fruit trees planted from the north, as well as convenient wide paths. Making a garden from scratch is not as difficult as a garden, but you can still encounter certain difficulties. You should start with preliminary preparation.

Stage one. Location selection

A place for a garden must meet certain requirements, let's get acquainted with them.

The garden should be located in a sunny place. It is important that the plants are under the sun for at least six hours a day.
Also, there should not be strong winds in the chosen place, or, as an option, the wind protection described above will be equipped.
The beds should be at least ten meters from trees and buildings.
Finally, the site chosen must be level and elevated.

Note! If the garden is sloping towards the south, then the harvest will be early, while on the northern slope the fruits will ripen later than usual. The western and eastern slopes are also suitable for a vegetable garden.

It is not worth breaking beds in a lowland, because water will accumulate there. If there is no other way out, then you should take care of the system of drainage grooves, and make the beds themselves no lower than 20 cm.

As for lighting, it is not easy to regulate it. The only way is to get rid of the objects shading the garden (with the exception of the north side). That is, trees do not need to be planted. But if they serve as protection from the wind, then it is necessary to at least thin out the crowns so that they do not cast a thick shadow.

Stage two. Planning

In most cases, it comes to the garden only after everything else is ready. There remains only a piece of land on which you need to break the beds.

You should start by making a plan. What should be included in it? First of all, you need to designate the number of beds, as well as determine their shape. It is desirable to make the beds square or rectangular, but if desired, the garden can be divided into sectors. You also need to raise them somewhat (by about 15-20 cm, although the height may be greater) so that when processing plants, you do not put too much pressure on your back. The width of the beds is usually about 80 cm.

In addition, the plan should allocate space for paths (for this, the distance between the beds should be at least 40 cm), as well as small areas for water containers and equipment. Such tanks, by the way, are needed when planting crops that love warm watering. Most of the expenses here are for the arrangement of paths.

Note! You should not use roofing material or slate when delimiting - these materials release harmful substances into the soil, which can cause the crop to be hazardous to health.

You also need a place for a compost heap, where vegetable and organic waste will be added. After two years, this waste will rot and serve as good fertilizer.

Stage three. Registration

If there is a lawn in place of future beds, then the selected area must be cultivated. There may be several options, but the most effective (and at the same time expensive) is to cut off the top layer of turf (no more than 3 cm) and then evenly spread the mixture consisting of sand, peat and manure. Then the site is dug up and beds are created. Another option is to dig up the ground so that the top layer is about 15 cm deep, and grow potatoes on it in the first year.

The procedure for designing beds is as follows.

Step 1. First, according to the plan drawn up, pegs are driven in around the perimeter of the garden, between which a rope is pulled.

Step 2 Then the soil is prepared by one of the methods described above.

Note! The location of crops must be changed annually, otherwise the crop will become worse over time, and the soil will become unsuitable for growing.

Step 3. The soil is loosened. It needs to be made soft and airy so that the plants sprout easily.

Step 4 The borders of the beds are marked. This can be done using the same pegs and rope, or planted around the perimeter of perennials.

Step 5 At the end, paths are formed. They can be covered with gravel or laid out with tiles (in the second case, the earth is compacted and covered with a layer of sand, after which laying is carried out).

Stage four. planting

After creating beds and paths, you can start planting plants. To avoid any problems in the future, you need to follow the compatibility rules shown in the image below.

That's all. As it turned out, if you do everything right, then it is quite possible to equip a house, a garden and a garden with your own hands. For more helpful information, check out the video below.

Video - Garden planning and gardening

Nowadays, an increasing number of people are resorting to growing vegetables in and on summer cottages.

After all, only if we have received crops from our beds, we can have no doubts about the quality of the cultivated greens, root and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The layout of the orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it must be taken into account that the most successful places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze the entire site in detail, this will help to rationally place the objects of landscape style, it includes both completed constructions and plantings, and future ones.

Drawing in your mind a picture of your future site, you need to create a draft project and not miss a single subtlety. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the site, which is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose a flat or slightly sloping area for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden, located from the south, and in the absence of such an opportunity, you need to choose another, most importantly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is required to analyze the land, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can adversely affect the root system of vegetation. You can make a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in the yard, study in detail the conditions for their growth to find out if they get along. Plan the number of ridges, think about whether you need someone's help or is it feasible to cope with the landings on your own.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank sheet of your gardener's diary, you need to sketch out the assumption of the garden. It can be front, side or rear relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north side to the south for better lighting and mean three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after the other or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of the site:

First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this variation of zoning. In the first zone we lay a garden, its vegetation will not obscure the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
In the next zone, it is more successful to place berries, their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow emanating from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
In the part of the third order, we plant fruit. From the previous one, it should be in the interval of about 3 m, so that there is no threat of their shading.

In the diary, you can record the names and the main nature of the fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate their location in the garden with numbers.

Berry layout

When breaking up a berry bush on a plot, one should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Blackcurrant grows normally surrounded by the rest of the vegetation, and sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum, hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berries around the perimeter of the site. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence, or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the site with their location.

The thickening of the berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its strength to diseases and the formation of the crop:

Raspberries are seated in tight rows, at intervals of half a meter from each other and at intervals of a meter and a half in rows. Raspberry vegetation, growing, fills the aisles, the former aisles are freed from overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the places of crops by cutting off the shoots, returning, after three years, to the former site of growth.
Yoshta and black currant are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red at meter intervals. Large bushy vegetation will shade each other, the spines of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and shadberry, like a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, it can be even thicker, and in the berry bush at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of one or another berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to please the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close jars of fragrant jam for winter storage.

A well-planned berry plot normally grows and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and crown formation is also an important activity. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary, we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crops, allocating conditionally 4 sq. m. for each copy. from the common area. No need to thicken the landings. Plants will grow and become a hindrance to each other.

Let the landing pits be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental horticultural vegetation in the household plot.

In terms of dimensions, these species are smaller, and yields are equal to high cultivated vegetation. For these types and care is easier, they are resistant to ailments, the most resistant in cold weather. Early, middle and late varietal species should grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies all season and so that it is possible to process and store grown fruits for the winter.

Of the garden cultivated vegetation, two sweet cherries (early and late) are quite enough. Instead of its average varietal species, it is more successful to plant two cherries.

They give out crops after early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft a different species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots are enough, which are frost-resistant varietal species. Three apple trees, in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to save a place for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to please with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not to fall ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to diseases, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in the special literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact the experts. A garden filled with low-quality vegetation will add work and trouble, but will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful ridges and correctly place them in your garden

Formats

They can be all kinds, only the dimensions of the site can limit their size. Ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or curly. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it, in height they can be low or high.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Reasons:

These beds are warm. On the lower layer of materials that are rapidly composted (branches, rags, paper, cardboard), a layer of materials is laid, they are composted more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste). Then it should be spilled with water, and covered with soil. In the process of decay, the ridge will begin to emit heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
The sun's rays warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
If you want to protect your upcoming crop from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the lower layer.
Such ridges do not need to be dug. After all, they are not dug, but made.
It is possible to harvest twice a season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce, before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are successful in processing, because care is simplified. And the length can not be limited. According to the Mitlider method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. With its growth, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and the main thing is that it receives more solar energy, and even in the cloudy summer season, the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

In the ridges arranged by this species, you can plant a variety of crops: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sidewalls, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to properly arrange the ridges in this version?

It is more successful to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is advised to place the ridges on a slope on the south side, and garden vegetation from the north direction.

layout

For her literacy, you need to consider:

The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetables per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to fulfill the plan qualitatively.
If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
Plan the planting of crops so that the taller vegetation is on the north side of the site. So lower species will not grow in shading.

Common missteps of a novice gardener:

Overly thickened plantings: it is necessary to provide seedlings with thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not favorably affect its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and ailments. Gaps between rows and vegetation in a row (planting patterns) are provided for each of the crops separately.
The lack of work on the elimination of weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because weed grass, already resistant and actively growing, deprives a significant proportion of the nutritional components of the crop.
Vegetable ridges in shading: negatively affects the quality of vegetation, some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components, growing in shading. Let the light on the ridges in the garden be present for at least 6 hours daily. In particular, vegetation uses the light of the afternoon. So, it’s lucky if at this time they are not in the shade.
Overdose of dressings: overfed vegetable vegetation is much more prone to ailments. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the culture, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. It is imperative that strict adherence to the terms and norms of adding dressings is necessary, taking into account the preferences of the culture.
Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turned out to be cool and wet, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: warm-loving, capricious vegetables (

Inexperienced summer residents, having planted their own garden, often complain that it does not have the abundance of fruits that they expected. And they begin to cut down trees, replacing them with cutting-edge seedlings. But in 90% of cases, people themselves are to blame for poor fruiting! Probably, the planting was carried out randomly, according to the principle “the more the better”, there was no garden layout, and here is the result - useless diseased trees.

Video: how to properly plan a summer cottage

Creating a garden, like creating a house, begins with design. Remember how a building project is chosen: they study the climate, the terrain, the availability of free space, family members, etc. And only taking into account all factors allows you to create the most comfortable and warm home.

Where does the garden begin?

The garden also begins with the study of the land on which the plants will live, and the climate, which directly affects the number of fruits. If the soil is too clayey or one sand, it is necessary to enrich it with black soil, peat and other useful components on which the nutrition of the roots will depend.

In the climate, the main factor that destroys fruiting are frosty winters, late spring frosts and excess moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to select an assortment of trees based on the climatic conditions of a particular area.

Choosing trees

Apple, pear, cherry plum and locally selected cherries are the most temperature-resistant trees. They adapt in almost any area and bear fruit, if not annually, then in a year.

Southern guests - apricot, peach - are afraid of wet springs, because early flowering at high humidity does not end with pollination. Pollen, along with moisture, settles to the ground. Dangerous and spring frosts, which just fall on the apricot blossom.

Cherry absolutely does not tolerate nearby groundwater, and if reclamation is not carried out, then in a couple of years it will wither away. Raw spring also leaves its mark: the fruits crack and rot, not yet ripe.

Therefore, when choosing an assortment of trees, consider their future performance. Is it necessary to allocate precious meters on five to six acres for trees that can bear fruit once every six years (under optimal weather conditions!). Wouldn't it be better to go to the nearest supermarket and buy a couple of kilograms of apricots or peaches, which will not be very expensive in season, and plant only those plants in the garden that will provide seven vitamins in winter?

Making markup

To decide how many trees to plant and how to do it correctly, you need to draw on paper all the buildings available and planned on the site: a house, a bathhouse, a gazebo, a fence, electric poles with wires (if any) and old trees that you do not plan to uproot.

Garden on a small summer cottage

Why is this needed? Each object that rises above the ground casts a shadow that affects the development of nearby plants. Trees, bushes, garden plants will begin to stretch into the zone of constant illumination, spending their strength not on laying fruits, but on fighting for light. This will continue until the top is above the barrier. And since it is not always possible for trees to outgrow a house or a bathhouse, you will not expect fruits even after 10 years. Therefore, on your plan, mark the height of each building, as well as the cardinal points, with a number. Shadows will be located from the west and east of the objects, narrowing towards the south. Draw with strokes the places where there will be a shadow for more than half a day. This distance is equal to half the height of your buildings.

Everything that turned out to be shaded on paper is not suitable for the garden. There you can lay paths, arrange flower beds, break up a lawn, a pond, etc. In order for the trees to yield a crop, the shade zone is excluded from the plan of the future garden.

We plant plants

First decide how many trees and shrubs you plan to plant. If you don’t want to cut pears, apple trees, then you can “seat” a maximum of 7 trees per hundred square meters. Why not thicker? Because as they grow, they will begin to cast a shadow, interfering with each other in normal development.

If pruning is still planned, then the number of trunks can be increased to 15 (per hundred square meters). The most "advanced" summer residents should spend money on columnar forms of trees, which are planted at intervals of a meter.

Layout option for a rectangular plot with a garden and a vegetable garden

It should be noted!
Pruning reduces the number of fruits only in cherries and apricots, because they are located throughout the branch. They are not customary to cut. The rest of the trees are in dire need of pruning. The fruits from this will become larger, the extra branches will not take the light. It is best to keep the trees at a size of about 2 meters, forming a crown like a ball or a flat wall (if planting trees near the fence).

Trees are planted after four meters if it is planned to restrain their growth in the region of 2 m in the form of a ball, and after three meters if planted with a wall. The distance between shrubs (currants, gooseberries, etc.) is 1.5 m.

Rows should run from south to north. So the plants will cast less shade, and shade-tolerant crops can be planted between the rows.

Garden layout

The modern layout of the garden and vegetable garden has ceased to be strictly rectangular. And all because it is inconvenient to bend around right corners when moving with a wheelbarrow. Therefore, mark garden paths and garden beds in such a way that it is convenient to walk with inventory. Interesting examples of planning a garden and a vegetable garden can be peeped from other summer residents, on the Internet or specialized directories.

But there are general laws that should be followed so that a minimum of beds gives a maximum yield.

Those owners who did not suffer with the layout suffer with the cultivation of garden crops. Having thoroughly puffed once, planning a garden and a vegetable garden, you will save yourself from unnecessary work.

orchard you need to plan slowly, having thought everything over well, since the future harvest will depend, among other things, on the right place. For the fruit garden, you need to allocate a bright open area. It is undesirable to lay an orchard in a lowland, where water will accumulate after bad weather or spring snowmelt.

Start bookmark orchard it is necessary from inspection and preparatory work, which include cleaning the site from old stumps, stones and other debris, digging all the land on the site and analyzing the soil. Soil analysis will show you what kind of fertilizer you should apply in the future. If you spill all the land in the area with water, this will provoke the growth of weeds for their subsequent removal.

The next step is the planning of the garden plot.

The following data can influence the location of the orchard:

Location relative to the house (in front of the house, behind the house, on the side of the house)
Regarding the cardinal points
The presence of other garden areas on your site - flower beds, beds, ponds, lawn, etc.

Before you break orchard, you also need to decide which breeds and varieties will grow in it. Many trees reach maturity only after 7-10 years. In this case, the harvest will have to wait a long time. In case you don’t want to wait, and you want to get a crop next year, you can plant large-sized ones.

Large sizes - These are mature trees, aged 4 to 7 years, around the root system of which an earthen clod is formed. When transplanting such trees, as a rule, special equipment is used.

When choosing tree species, one must remember that many species do not like neighborhoods and inhibit each other's growth. In addition, different trees in the orchard have completely different preferences for light and soil. It is advisable to consult with a specialist, or study the relevant literature.

Moreover, each culture has its own structural features of the root system. For example, in an apple tree, the roots can grow up to 10 m in width, and up to 6 m deep. The pear root system, on the contrary, grows deeper - up to 10 m, and in breadth - up to 6 m.

If the soil in your garden is heavy, the tree will not be able to take root deeply. Such a tree is likely to be weak.

Of course, it is difficult to find ideal conditions in our orchards for each tree. But still, the basic rules for planting trees will help you set up a healthy orchard that pleases with its harvest. In order for a tree not only to grow, but to bear fruit and be strong, it is necessary to provide it with an optimal layer of fertile soil, which will be the source of the necessary moisture and nutrition.

When planting large-sized plants, your dream of turning the site into a blooming orchard quickly turns into reality. In addition, the root system of such trees is already practically formed, and they can be transplanted without fear.

Modern technology allows you to transplant mature trees ( fruit large-sized) without much problem.

Trees prepared for transplantation should naturally be healthy and not damaged. Trees that have a hollow are not suitable for transplanting.

The crown of a large-sized fruit must be significantly thinned out (remove some skeletal branches by about 1/3 of their length) in order to avoid moisture evaporation. Cover the wounds formed after pruning with garden pitch.

The soil ball should be cubic or cylindrical.

The pit is prepared in advance (1-2 weeks in advance). Its dimensions should exceed the earthen clod (twice in height, and three times in width).

The bottom is being prepared - a mixture of expanded clay is poured, then humus, sand, peat and black soil. The percentage composition of this mixture depends on the type of wood.

After planting the large-sized plant, all the free space in the pit is covered with good fertile soil. Then, it is slightly compacted.

And, of course, well watered. Moreover, an irrigation system (aeration tube or root watering) is provided.

Additional reinforcement with guy wires will help stabilize the transplanted tree.

It is necessary to choose young plants (1-2 years). So they get along better. The root system in older seedlings is easier to damage.

Orchard seedlings usually planted in autumn or spring at rest (when vegetative processes are slowed down).

When planting seedlings, a hole is dug in advance (approximately 80x80 cm) and filled with fertile soil. The soil from the depth of the pit can be distributed along the trunk circle. If the seedling is planted immediately after digging a hole, the soil at the bottom must be compacted - tamped with feet and poured with 1-2 buckets of water.

Also, organic fertilizers (compost, manure), and mineral fertilizers are applied to the planting pit. The amount of fertilizer for each tree species is different. It is better not to add mineral fertilizers directly to the roots of the plant. Only the ground from the top layer.

Landing seedlings for orchard broken branches must be removed. The roots are trimmed (to a healthy part) only if they are damaged.

A healthy seedling should have a well-branched root system. If the roots have dried out along the way, they can be placed in water for about 12-24 hours. Immediately before planting, it is advisable to dip the roots in a clay mash.

If planting is not possible within a few days, the seedling should be wrapped with a damp cloth and several layers of newspaper.

Leaves, in order to avoid evaporation of moisture, it is better to carefully remove.

When planting, it is desirable to take into account the position of the seedling relative to the cardinal points. For 1-2 years, while they were growing in the nursery, they adapted to certain light conditions. The south side of the stem of the seedling can be distinguished by its darker brown coloration. The lighter side is the north.

Do not bury the root neck! It should be at ground level. After planting, the soil near the trunk circle is mulched, and the seedling itself is tied to a peg (not tight, with a figure eight).

Main orchard seedlings- these are pears, cherries and plums.

It often happens that the space of the garden is organized: on the first impulse, under the influence of emotions or under the influence of advertising, seedlings, flowers, accessories are bought, and then all this is placed randomly on the site or according to the principle “like everyone else”. How will it all end? One and the same: it will soon turn out that almost everything was out of place, and as a result, the site is ugly and uncomfortable.

To get what you want, you need to act like professionals from the very beginning - competently plan your garden. There is no other way, only advance planning allows you to get the garden you dream of.

Dinner Zone

groenbedrijflimburg.be

What kind of garden do you dream of? This is where you need to stop. This is the first professional step. You need to determine what kind of garden you need, and very specifically and "materially". To do this, start with yourself.

Take a blank sheet of paper and in a calm atmosphere think and write down: what you love and what you don’t, what are your needs, hobbies, family traditions, how you spend your free time, what inspires you, what you want to achieve. It is important. Let each member of your family make such a record, such a “research” will then help you in choosing specific options.

Resting-place

flowerpower.com.au

Now it's time to assemble the "family council". Gather together and have everyone make a list of their wishes for what they would like to have on the site. First, abstract from the size of the site, as well as whether it is new or already has plantings and buildings on it. Do not limit your imagination, write down everything you want: a bathhouse, a gazebo, an orchard, a vegetable garden, a patio, a rock garden, an alpine hill, a pond, a workshop ... For children, a playground will surely be required, for older family members - a cozy bench. And where there is a garden, there is a barn and a compost heap. Discuss your lists together and roughly estimate the area for everything planned out. It is quite natural that everything will not fit on the site. Therefore, you need to go through the lists a few more times and cross off everything that you can do without, and this is where your first list will help you - a list of your personal priorities.

The location of the beds

sustainablenovato.org

You have identified your "objects of desire". The next step is to create a "collection of ideas". To do this, you need a bright folder with pocket files. Gradually put into it all the “images” that are related to your future “design project”: magazine clippings, photographs, drawings, samples of flower beds, arbors, original ideas, color schemes, materials from exhibitions. At first, do not analyze the feasibility, complexity - just collect whatever you like. The most unexpected solutions will come, not necessarily in the same versions as in your “collection”, and your unique version will form from this “kaleidoscope”.

Well, now - you are ready to proceed directly to planning. After all, now you know your dream “by sight”. When planning, you need to consider whether you have a completely new site, or an already inhabited garden. The dream garden is real for you anyway. A fully inhabited garden can also be redesigned one hundred percent, it's all about the technique used.

shrubs

Use a very effective method that does not require special skills and abilities. It's called "the method of kálek".

1. The boundaries of the garden. Take a blank sheet of paper and draw the boundaries of your area. To do this, you need a graph paper (scale 1:100, which means that a meter on the site corresponds to a centimeter on paper. This will be the most convenient scale for you). You can take plain white paper and use a scale ruler (such rulers are sold with different scales, choose the one with 1:100). You will also need pencils (simple and colored), a compass, a square, a ruler, tracing paper, a tape measure and a compass. Before drawing, measure the sides of the plot with a tape measure. By the way, if you don’t know how to draw at all, documents for your site will help you - there should be a scale plan, its configuration. You just have to enlarge them to the desired, larger scale.

Stone as a material for improvised buildings

foudejardins.com

2. Garden zoning. Here you need to determine which zones (parts of the garden) will be located where and what size they will be. Zones always have some function and usually distinguish: residential area (house, summer house, summer kitchen, patio, etc.), recreation areas (gazebo, barbecue area, pond, swimming pool), utility zones (garden, kitchen garden, barn, garage, workshop, etc.). But this is only indicative, and you yourself can “establish” any zones, since you already have your own wishes.

Zones should be noted on your "design project". But not on the sheet of paper where you drew the boundaries of the site! Take a few sheets of tracing paper for this. Transfer your original plan to tracing paper in several copies and mark the zones on one of them. They are drawn as abstract spots of arbitrary shape. Sign them. Consider the resulting option. It is possible that questions will arise where it is better to place any zone, for example, a gazebo. And you have just a few cripples. Estimate this way and that, compare the options, move the tracing paper along the main plan and immediately see the best one. So, gradually, you will receive a complete plan of zones (and determine their size according to your needs). At this stage, priority is given to practicality and rationality, because even the most spectacular design is unlikely to please you if it is uncomfortable on the site.

catwalks

3. Tracks. Draw them on the paper. First, mark the intended routes of your movement with arrows, and then draw the outlines of the tracks along them with lines. Their exact width and shape can be added later. The main criterion is to be comfortable. For decorative reasons, do not make all the tracks absolutely even, let there be a slight bend. Loop them around the garden - connect them into a single route. This is both convenient and practical; this is one of the techniques of landscape architecture.

4. Trees and shrubs. Draw them on the tracing paper in circles of the appropriate size, for this, take an interest in reference books about the size of the crown of the trees you have chosen in adulthood and what distance they need when planting. The general recommendation for placement is as follows: taller plants - in the lower part of the site, flowering plants - closer to the recreation areas. Shrubs, including berry bushes, can frame the path, conifers can be fenced off from the prevailing winds.

5. Flower beds. Draw everything on the next tracing paper, as there will be many options! Arrange them however you like, but don't forget about lighting requirements. Place for roses - in front of the house and on the south side, conifers and heathers are good in rock gardens, give the entrance to the site to plants that bloom longer than others.

Garden furniture

6. Vertical gardening. We draw it with conditional icons also on tracing paper. Choose "your" types of vertical gardening that you like: screens, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc.

7. Garden accents. Place accents on a schematic plan: garden accessories, containers with plants, think over lighting, spectacular details. In a word, give the site a "zest".

Well, now - the most exciting moment! By combining all your tracing papers, you will get a plan for your dream garden.

Yard

www.meaningfullife.com

Here the same method is used, but with some peculiarities.

1. Analysis of existing conditions. At the very beginning of planning, you should draw the boundaries of the garden. But then follows an analysis of the existing conditions - what is “given” to you. You need to draw a site plan as it is now. So, you have drawn the boundaries of the site, and now put on this plan all those objects that already exist on it (trees, buildings, etc.). The resulting plan of what is "given" now needs to be supplemented. This means - to identify the individual characteristics of your site. Mark the cardinal directions on the plan, determining them with a compass - this is very important for the correct orientation of future plantings and buildings, this is your light "climate". Mark all the features of the microrelief - depressions, elevations, irregularities and sign them. Draw with an arrow the direction of the slope, if any. Evaluate its angle by eye. Pay attention to the landscape around you, the proximity of the forest, reservoir, road, how beautiful the views from the site are, to the buildings of the neighbors. Directly on the plan, sign what you would like to hide, and what, on the contrary, to reveal. Depict objects on the plan with simple geometric shapes - circles, rectangles of the appropriate size, preferably colored.

If your garden is inhabited, you know a lot about it. Therefore, be sure to mark on the plan the direction of the prevailing winds, the “movement schedule” of shadows during the day, the location of the warmest and coldest places (those where frost is guaranteed and snow stays longer). It would be very good, of course, to find out the level of groundwater and the composition of the soil (approximately, an accurate analysis is not needed).

It is very good to use a camera when analyzing the existing conditions. It will be very convenient to take pictures of some corners of your estate in order to always have food for thought before your eyes and not miss a single detail.

decorative lantern

mimimiamiliving.com

2. Zoning of a habitable garden. The main thing when zoning is to take into account those individual features that you identified in the first step: the relief, the surrounding landscape, existing buildings, and climatic features. If a particularly beautiful view opens from somewhere, it is logical to make a recreation area there, if there is a lowland or depression, there is no better place for a pond. The most important design secret: most of the minuses of your site are actually pluses, this is luck, this is your individual style, it is thanks to them that your site will become unique!

flower border

www.homesandland.com

If the site has already been developed, there are buildings and plantings, then you need to consider each "object" as far as it suits you and fits into the new zoning. There is no need to be afraid of cardinal changes, since everything can always be adapted to new conditions, there are special decorative techniques for this.

All subsequent five steps- plan paths, plants, flower beds, vertical gardening and garden accents on separate tracing papers in the same way as when planning a new garden. But before that, having completed the zoning, mark on the tracing paper only those objects that you would like to leave in the garden, and abstract from the rest - do not transfer them to your project.

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