How to mint a cast-iron sewer. How to emboss cast iron plumbing pipes

In the case of replacing plumbing equipment such as a toilet bowl or a sewer riser, it is necessary to very carefully perform the procedure for caulking cast-iron pipes in the first place. With strict observance of all the rules for caulking or caulking connected sewer pipes, it is possible to do such work with your own hands.

The embossing is done in the following order

First, it is necessary to very carefully, without undue effort, tap the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer in order to avoid complete replacement of the riser section in case of cracking.
By slightly loosening the dismantled pipe, it is necessary to make sure that the bell can move and rotate freely on the sides and can be gradually released from the chasing with a cable. Now you can dismantle it in the following order:
in all directions it is necessary to loosen the socket;
gradually pull the rope and pick it with a thin straight object with a screwdriver or some kind of rod;
the rope must be firmly grasped with pliers;
continue to slowly loosen it and gently pull the rope.

The ineffectual tapping and immobility of the bell indicate that the chasing was carried out using a special sulfur filling. In this case, it is necessary to perform the direct burnout procedure according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to carefully heat the socket section of the cast-iron pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or gas burner, while you must not forget to continue loosening, unscrewing and tapping the socket part of the pipe;

After it has moved from the place of the old embedment, it is necessary to continue to loosen it with the help of some tool, an adjustable wrench, etc.
After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully clean with any cutting tool a knife, chisel or chisel. When cleaning, special attention should be paid to the socket seat, on which sealing rubber will subsequently be installed.
Place greased into the cleaned socket. Install the required assembly in the seal.

Coin options

In order to firmly and hermetically construct a sewer system from cast-iron pipelines and parts for it, it is imperative to provide for the correct option for sealing the resulting gap filling the void between the pipes, which is always shown when the inner socket part of the pipe is butt-joined with its outer surface part.
It should be noted that the choice of the necessary consumables, the appropriate special tools for sealing work and the amount of time spent depend on the method of sealing the connection of cast-iron pipes. It is proposed to consider the currently existing two options for caulking cast iron joints.
1. The first option is the use of cement mortar

The procedure for sealing pipe joints with cement mortar consists of the following steps:
In the resulting gap between the pipes, it is necessary to lay a special tarred sealant. To make such a gasket, a conventional tourniquet pre-tarred in a special solution is used, which is driven into the gap formed between the pipe and the socket to a depth equal to 2/3 of the gap space. After creating the first sealing ring, it is necessary to put the end of the rope (tow) on top of this ring so that it does not end up inside the pipe being installed.
Next, it is necessary to seal the remaining part of the depth of the gap (1/3 of the remaining space) between the pipes with the prepared mortar from cement, already compacted with a tarred tourniquet in front of this. In order to increase the density and reliability of the caulking of the joints, it is required to use a special coinage together with a hammer, with which it is necessary to carefully tamp the cement mortar. The moment of the end of caulking is considered to be the beginning of rebounds of the caulking from the clogged cement seal. In order to obtain a high-quality setting of the cement mortar, it is necessary to cover the compacted area with a wet cloth, for example, gauze.
In order to prepare a cement mortar, you will need to purchase cement grade 300400. It must be mixed with water in a ratio of 9/1.
You can increase the speed of work when caulking with the help of special tools such as broadened caulking and caulking. At the same time, the entire process is accelerated by 30%.
If the work is carried out in winter at low ambient temperatures, then the cement mortar in this case must be kneaded in heated water, and it is also necessary to perform temporary insulation of the pipe joint sealed with cement.

2. The second option is the use of asbestos cement

This process is slightly different from the previous one and has its own procedure:
It is necessary to knead the asbestos fiber in a dry state with cement in a ratio of 1/2, respectively;
The collected dry mix should be kneaded in water before being used as a seal between pipes. The volume of water in the solution should be about 1012% of the total volume of the prepared mixture.
The process of caulking the gap between the pipes is carried out in a similar way in accordance with the established procedure for the first option for sealing the joints.

Such a procedure as chasing or chasing connections between has its own difficulties and difficulties with its own nuances and tricks. Therefore, in order to achieve a positive result with such laborious work, it is recommended to seek help from knowledgeable and experienced professionals. In this case, there is a guarantee that you can get rid of unnecessary hassle and costs during an unplanned replacement of risers as a result of, for example, unsuccessful tapping of the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer.

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need an additional outlet or an existing outlet has become unusable. How to proceed?

hammered pipe before starting work

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

warming up the pipe before caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin dismantling the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and hence sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is located in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit it several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

Correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it is better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a rammed rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it out all the way, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of minting in Soviet times was pouring sulfur compounds into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you will have to use the only effective method - heating. Be sure to remember a simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if you have a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the bell, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

Cast iron is a heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant, durable material that can withstand heavy loads. Its main purpose is the device of sewer and water communication. But you should not completely pin your hopes on the cast-iron sewer, since it also has disadvantages, they need special care and repair. In this article, we will look at how to caulk cast-iron pipes with your own hands.

In order to exclude depressurization of individual sections of communications, it is necessary to repair the internal pipes in a timely manner and take preventive measures, removing lime deposits, rust and other organic growths from their surface.

Chasing

The essence of the preparatory work is to inspect and determine the welded places. There are two methods for gluing cast iron pipe parts: gluing the elements with a welding seam and pouring with a mortar. Bonding of parts with a special solution is used if it is necessary to combine pipes of various configurations and diameters. And with a welding seam, fan pipes of the same diameter are mainly glued together. After a visual inspection of the sewer and determining the complexity of the work, you can proceed to the next stage - dismantling.

Most often, over the years, pipes grow together so strongly that it is very difficult to disassemble the sewer. In this case, you need a gas cutter, with which you can disconnect the spliced sections in a short period of time and without effort.

Before proceeding with the caulking of pipes, it is necessary to turn off the water supply. If possible, it is necessary to shut off the water supply system.

The designated section of the pipe, which is to be replaced, is sawn off by a grinder. When sawing damaged areas, strong blows should not be made in order to prevent the formation of cracks in subsequent sections.
After the removal of damaged sections of the pipe is completed, they proceed to install a new pipe with a certain margin for its expansion.

The edges of the pipe, which are inserted into the pipe, are fixed together with a resin strand using a caulk.

Pipe branch

This process is very complex and differs markedly from the previous method. This is argued by the fact that this area is risky and if the caulking is carried out incorrectly, then the riser can be split along the drop line.

Before you start disassembling the pipe, you need to take a hammer and tap on the entire surface of the socket. When tapping, you can determine the method of embossing.

If the bell easily gives in and staggers, then it was minted with a rope and a camboca. In this case, you will need an ordinary screwdriver and pliers. When loosening, a rope should appear, which must be hooked with a screwdriver and taken out to the surface. To make it easier to pull out the rope, it must be grabbed with pliers at the same time, without ceasing to loosen the socket.

Caulking a cast-iron pipe with sulfur eliminates deformation and loosening, therefore, not a hammer or other percussion instrument will help with this. In this case, you will need a blowtorch or a gas burner to burn the sulfur seam. From a high temperature, sulfur will begin to dry out and fall off. After the sulfur has crumbled, take a hammer and follow the same procedure as described in the previous method of caulking a pipe with a rope.

Perform tapping until the bell starts to move, so that it is convenient to loosen the bell, take an adjustable wrench and begin to carry out oscillatory movements from side to side, pulling it towards you. The loosened socket is taken out with a chisel and cleaned.

The saddle should be flat without distortions so that the sealing gum lies tightly to the surface.

The surface of the gum is coated with silicone and inserted into the tee of the bell. At this stage, the caulking and caulking of the cast-iron pipe is completed.

Video

We bring to your attention a video dedicated to chasing pipes.

In the days of the Soviet Union, it was cast-iron pipes that were used for the manufacture of sewers. They have many advantages, such as long service life and high reliability. However, at the same time, they do not have flexibility, which is why they are overgrown with plaque from the inside, and are also susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, in our time, products made of polymeric materials are increasingly used. But, despite this, cast-iron pipelines still remain in most houses, because most buildings were built several decades ago. Therefore, gradually people begin to independently replace the failed sections. At the same time, they are faced with the fact that the pipes are minted. You should study the question of how to mint a pipe with your own hands.

To emboss a cast-iron pipe, people usually invite a professional. However, such work can be done by hand. At the same time, it is very important to act carefully.

The caulking of pipes is the separation of the elements of the sewer pipeline. This process requires care and accuracy, but it is quite possible to carry it out on your own.

Chasing sewer sockets requires careful preparation. The main stages of this process:

First of all, you need to prepare the tools. We are talking about a grinder, a hacksaw, a simple and rubber hammer, a chisel, an adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, a respirator and a blowtorch.
You need to open the valves. This will protect against the flow of fluid through the pipe with which the work is being done.
You also need to ask the neighbors not to use the water supply and sewerage. Especially seriously should talk about the use of the toilet. After all, this can lead to the fact that the drains will fall right on your head.
You will have to dismantle the toilet, sink, or the system whose sewer part you are going to mint.

Chasing pipes can only be done when you have completed all the stages of preparation for this process. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to cope with this process.

Cutting off an unnecessary pipe section

If you want to repair or replace the sewer or water pipe system, then you need to carry out each step in stages. After all, this process is different in that in case of failure, you can damage the sewer system of your neighbors.

Chasing the toilet outlet is difficult because in order to dismantle this element of plumbing, it will have to be broken. You won't be able to take it off completely.

Before you start caulking the sewer system, you must eliminate the damaged area. In this case, there are several recommendations.

The first stage of chasing a cast-iron sewer:

The end pipe is very easy to replace. Here you will not have to do any special work, except for the chasing itself.
If you want to replace the central part of the sewer riser, then this will be more difficult. This is where you need to make a cut.
For four centimeters from the common pipe, make an incision in a circle. Use a protective mask, goggles and gloves.
The unfinished part is carefully finished with a hacksaw. It is not recommended to hit the pipe with a hammer. The fact is that the fragility of the metal is unpredictable, upon impact, instead of a damaged pipe, the necessary part may burst, and in this case the next element will have to be changed.
Tie a large piece of rags to the pipe, then put it into it. This is necessary so that foreign objects do not get into the riser.
Now they go down some distance from the cut along the damaged element so that 20-30 centimeters remain to the place of caulking, and make a new cut. Carefully remove the cut piece.
The hole in the pipe is again closed with rags.

When cutting a pipe, all actions must be done very carefully. Do not cut the product flush, as this increases the danger of work.

It is very convenient to do this work in tandem with a friend. Then one person will be able to hold the element being cut off, and the other to cut.

Methods for caulking pipes and options for its neutralization

Chasing a pipe, that is, connecting its elements, can be done in three ways. However, each of them requires its own specific approach.

Nowadays, in order to connect the elements, it is not at all necessary to mint a pipe. This can be done using a special coupling-adapter. Moreover, with such an element it is possible to connect pipes from various materials, for example, cast iron and plastic.

Chasing pipes can be made from different materials. Various caulking of pipes and ways to eliminate it:

It will be easiest to separate the elements if they were minted with a heel. This is a rope that is wound around pipes and rammed. To check if this method has been used, you need to hit the bell several times with a rubber mallet, and then try to loosen it. If the pipe lends itself, then, most likely, it was the cable that was used. In this case, it is necessary to open the top layer of the rope with a screwdriver, find its end and pull it out. Throughout the work, it is necessary to carefully loosen the pipe. Shake it until you can pull out the necessary element. If the cable was covered with cement mortar on top, then it must first be knocked down. To do this, a screwdriver is placed on it at an angle, which taps.
In Soviet times, the cable was used infrequently. Sulfur was much more common. In this case, you will have to do quite a dangerous job. For her, you will definitely need to wear a gas mask, because sulfur fumes will be released, which are extremely poisonous. It is also necessary to ventilate the apartment. So, it is necessary to melt the sulfur with a blowtorch so that it acquires a liquid state. When heating, it is periodically necessary to tap the pipe until a noticeable stir appears. When the pipe itself heats up, it will need to be taken with an adjustable wrench and pulled towards you with effort. This will release the required element.

This is how pipes are caulked. It is worth noting that the option with gray is the most dangerous. Therefore, if you do not have a gas mask or a special construction respirator, then it is better not to start at all.

To dismantle the pipe from cast iron correctly, it is necessary to take into account all the rules of caution.

Helpful Hints:

Don't work alone. It is not safe. It's best if a friend helps.
If the pipes were minted with sulfur, then after removing the necessary element from the system, sulfur residues must be wiped off the pipe.
Do not use an iron mallet to chisel pipes. It can lead to the formation of cracks throughout the system. If there is no rubber, then you can use a wooden tool.

Such simple rules will help to produce chasing without trouble.

It is difficult to mint a cast-iron sewer with your own hands, but it is possible. However, keep in mind that even with perfectly correct execution, a non-professional will take several times more time to do this work than a master. Dare!

Not all users know how to mint a cast-iron sewer pipe. Moreover, not everyone understands what is at stake. However, during the assembly or reconstruction of the sewer system, the ability to correctly caulk pipe joints is very useful.

In many houses, old cast-iron pipelines are still preserved, which are not advisable to completely change to modern plastic. The pipes are still strong, able to work for decades. As a rule, they are left intact, replacing only apartment horizontal wiring sections. Consider how the connection of cast-iron pipes is made during the installation of drainage systems.

Features of cast iron pipes

Cast iron pipes were used everywhere in Soviet times. Alternative materials for manufacturing were used on a limited scale, for the assembly of special . The properties of cast iron pipelines allow the old system to still work. The advantages of these pipelines:

strength;
long service life;
resistance to temperature changes;
ability to work with aggressive liquids.

The disadvantages are:

tendency to corrosion;
big weight;
fragility, inability to withstand sharp blows;
assembly complexity.

The most significant drawback is the complicated connection procedure, or chasing of cast-iron sewer pipes. In combination with the heavy weight of the parts that create a significant load on the supporting structures, such drainage lines were difficult to install and maintain. However, the durability and reliability of cast iron systems is appreciated by experts. All networks, the condition of which does not inspire concern, are still effectively used for wastewater disposal.

Connection methods

The assembly of cast iron pipelines is a complex and responsible task. There are several types of connections:

into the socket This is the most popular type, which is called "chasing sewer pipes." The process requires accuracy and experience, exact observance of technology requirements. Proper caulking withstands several decades of exploitation of leak postures;
coupling connection. This option is used for socketless pipes. Special couplings are used that tightly wrap around the edges of the connected elements. The build quality is high, no special experience and skills are required to perform the work. However, there are not always necessary conditions for installing a coupling.

There are couplings that are not equipped with threaded clamps. They are two sockets into which the ends of the connected elements are inserted. The assembly of such lines also requires embossing of sewer pipes, performed according to standard technology.

The procedure consists in filling the socket gap with a sealant, and sealing with hardening compounds. As a sealant, a tarred hemp strand is most often used, which is stuffed into 2/3 of the socket and carefully compacted. Then the remaining third is filled with a durable protective compound. To do this, use cement, plumbing sulfur. In pressure lines, lead chasing is sometimes used, the procedure is complex, but very effective.

How to chisel a bell

During repair work, reconstruction or expansion of the drainage system, it often becomes necessary to connect different lines. Before you mint a sewer pipe, you often have to disassemble the old, defective connection. It is extremely difficult to strike a bell, which over the years has been overgrown with monolithic layers. The main problem is the danger of destroying the socket of an entire pipe or tee. If this happens, you will have to disassemble and change the entire riser or horizontal pipeline.

Before you chisel the old cast-iron sewer, it is necessary to clean the connecting element, remove all foreign objects and layers. As a rule, various temporary patches of paint, additional layers of mortar, and other materials are applied over the standard connection. All such areas are subject to complete removal.

After that, it is necessary to determine what material the insulating seal is made of, since cement is much easier to mint a cast-iron sewer than sulfur. If a cement mortar is used, the process of disassembling the connection will be easier. However, if plumbing sulfur was used, the procedure will be complicated. The material will have to be heated with a gas burner or a blowtorch, since it will not be possible to simply break and remove particles from the gap - sulfur has high strength and viscosity. You will have to work in a gas mask, because when heated, toxic gases will be released.

Procedure

In order to chisel, you must first remove the cement or sulfur filling (1/3 of the socket depth), and then remove the hemp strand (2/3 of the depth). The first stage requires caution and accuracy. There is a high risk of breaking the socket of a tee or other receiving element. First, they act with a chisel, then with a screwdriver with a long thin sting. With gentle hammer blows, the screwdriver is immersed in the gap, breaking off small pieces of the seal.

Many sources recommend first tapping the socket around the circumference with a hammer, and then checking to see if the pipeline has any mobility. This is useless advice, since it is impossible to mint a cast-iron sewer in this way. Until the top layer of cement or sulfur is removed, it will not be possible to swing the pipe. In addition, hammer blows can break the socket, which will significantly increase the amount of work.

When the hard plug is removed, the connection will gain mobility. It is shifted a little to the side, the rope is picked up and pulled out, swinging the pipe to the sides to facilitate the process. After that, the socket will be completely released, the connecting element can be easily removed.

How to mint

Caulking is a procedure for sealing, sealing a connecting element. It is necessary to prepare materials, tools:

oiled rope (hemp strand);
cement (or asbestos-cement) mortar;
a wooden spatula freely entering the gap of the socket;
long screwdriver;
a hammer.

The caulking of sockets of sewer pipes takes place in 2 stages:

stuffing the gap with tow or rope (bondage). Using a cord is considered a more efficient option. The sealant is inserted into the gap, they begin to wind it around the pipe, constantly ramming it with a spatula. The material must be compacted and immersed in the gap until it stops. The process is stopped when the gap is filled to 2/3 of the depth;
cement mortar is poured over the sealant into the gap. It is pushed with a wooden spatula or a screwdriver, evenly distributing the material throughout the entire volume of the cavity. The quantity should be such that the entire gap is completely filled to the very top of the socket.

Chasing a bell with gray at home is not practiced. It is necessary to melt lump sulfur with 10-15% kaolin, which requires special equipment and enhanced ventilation. This method is possible only in the factory.