How to sheathe walls with drywall in a brick house. We make plasterboard wall sheathing: a practical decorative solution

Sheathing walls with drywall is actually not as difficult a process as many might think, but it is the best way to level walls. What plasterboard wall sheathing gives us is smooth walls, hidden communications (wiring, pipes, insulation, etc.), sound insulation, and environmental friendliness. Therefore, in this article we will carefully consider the process of wall cladding with drywall.

Necessary material for plasterboard wall cladding

Before starting any construction work, we need to make sure that the necessary material is available. The first thing we need is a metal frame, which we will make using:
1. Ceiling profile PP, Parameters: height 27 mm, width 60 mm, length 3 m.

2. Guide profile PN-28/27, as can be seen from the picture, it has a U-shape and serves not only for wall cladding, but also for ceilings. Parameters: height 27 mm, width 28 mm, length 3 m.

4. Self-tapping screws for metal, size 4 mm, they are also “buttons”

5. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall sheets, size 25 mm

6. A screwdriver, you can also use a drill or a hammer drill, but I personally find it more convenient to work with a screwdriver. In this article “Choosing a Screwdriver”, I described in detail what screwdrivers are and how they differ.

7. Scissors for metal or fortune (Bulgarian)

8. Construction knife, preferably with a sharp and strong blade

9. Drywall sheets, you should pay attention to the dimensions: the standard sheet size is usually 2500x1200x12.5 mm and weight is about 29 kg, but sheets can be up to 5 meters long, from 2.4 meters to 1.2 meters wide, from 6 to 24 millimeters thick

10. Measuring tool: level, tape measure, plumb line. Read more about the measuring tool here “Measuring tool in construction”

11. Well, for complete happiness, a pencil or marker

Not so long ago, drywall was attached to a wooden frame, either directly to the ceiling or to the wall. Currently, there is a metal frame for attaching to drywall. The collection of the frame for drywall has been greatly simplified. This setup will save you a lot of time. With the help of a metal frame, you can assemble various designs.

In the future, drywall is attached to the metal frame, and walls, arches, partitions, ceilings are obtained. The metal frame is galvanized, and thus protected from corrosion and oxidation, due to this property it will last a long time. The metal frame for fixing drywall is divided into two parts: the main and the carrier. The main part is fixed to the ceilings and walls, and the drywall sheet is attached to the supporting part.
Using scissors for metal, you can cut the frame for attaching drywall. In order to attach a drywall sheet to the profile, special screws and self-tapping screws are needed. The service life of such a frame is much higher than that of a wooden one, it does not rot, and there are no wood pests.

Assembly of a metal frame for drywall.

I saw and read on the Internet many different ways of mounting a metal frame, the principle is of course the same, but there are enough mounting options, so I will describe exactly the method that I experienced on a personal example.

At the beginning of the installation of the drywall frame, it is necessary to determine the exact location of the partition or wall. When assembling the frame, you need to make sure that there are wires for electricity and water pipes. We are planning a place for future metal structures. In this case, we use a laser level and a chalk line. With a laser level, we measure the distance of the corners, and with a chalk cord - the evenness of the future structure to the floor lines. We repeat everything too in relation to the opposite wall. We also measure the boundaries of the future door.
To mount the profile, it is necessary to cut out three parts of the wall frame: the bottom, ceiling and wall. We measure the length of the frame and cut it with scissors. At the place of the future door opening, in the profile attached to the floor, we leave the desired size. According to the dimensions of the lower profile, we mark the required width on the plinth. Then we cut out the marked distance on the plinth and follow the exact vertical cut.

The cut sections are removed with a nail puller. If necessary, we nail the edges of the plinth with nails, or screw them to the wall with self-tapping screws. The gap between fasteners should be approximately 60 cm. If fastening to concrete is necessary, a hole must be made through the profile using a special drill. We hammer fasteners with a hollow into the resulting hole.

Installation of a drywall profile must be reliable. It is necessary to take a wooden block and insert it into the profile along the circumference of the wooden opening. This will secure the door frame. The profile with the bar must be inserted simultaneously into the profile of the lower trim on one side of the doorway. Do the same on the other side.

To establish the profile of the door lintel, right angle elbows are required to attach to the posts. To fix the jumper profile on the racks, you will need special drywall screws. In order to check the horizontalness, it is necessary to use a level. The first post is installed by screwing it into the bottom and top frame profile. After that, it is necessary to rotate the profile of the rack to a predetermined position. For the remaining racks, the same procedure is performed, including here the rack above the opening. If necessary, we install spacers, in case they are needed for fastening heavy and small sheets of drywall. The base is ready, the next step is plasterboard sheathing.

The process of plasterboard wall cladding

Working with drywall is quite easy, it is cut very simply. To do this, mark the place of the cut by applying a level or even object, cut the line with a knife. Then lightly strike the sheet at the cut, after which it will break exactly along the marked line. Carefully cut through the cardboard on the other side and you will get a perfect cut.

It is necessary to fix the sheet with self-tapping screws for drywall (25). Try to screw in the screws at a distance from the edges, otherwise they will break off, the distance between the screws is: in the middle 20-30 cm, at the edges about 15 cm. After the first sheet is screwed on, attach all the whole sheets and then cut and screw on the inserts.

Well, this is where the plasterboard wall cladding is completed. , the main thing is not to be afraid and try to do everything with your own hands, because a thing made on your own brings more satisfaction. On this I say goodbye to you, for now.

Finishing walls with drywall is an extremely important process in the construction business. This method of leveling the surface is considered one of the easiest and at the same time quite reliable. Drywall is durable and able to provide a good service life. In this article, we will consider how to finish the walls with drywall with our own hands, and also tell you the procedure for working in a wooden house.

Types of wall decoration

There are two processing methods using drywall. This is a method with and without frame installation. Both are quite often used in the construction business. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Frameless way

This method is simple and fast enough. In this case, the installation of drywall is done with glue. But, do not forget that for such work it is necessary to use a special glue for drywall sheets. Fortunately, this one is quite common and can be found at any hardware store.

For installation, the first step is to prepare the walls. All dirt and dust must be removed from them, and also treated with a primer. You will also need to check the wall for defects and curvature.

If the unevenness of the wall does not exceed seven millimeters, then gluing occurs in the usual way. Glue is applied to the material and smeared over the entire plane. If the curvature is large, then the glue must be applied in the form of cakes at a certain interval. But, when the irregularities exceed twenty millimeters, we recommend that you first level the wall using putty, and only then glue the drywall.

Wall pasting

After cleaning and checking for irregularities, the wall is treated with a primer. Priming helps to increase the adhesion of the surface, and also protects the wall from the formation of mold and fungus. After, we wait until the primer is completely dry, and only then it will be possible to continue working. The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. It must be prepared according to the instructions on the package and in no case violate the manufacturer's recommendations.

Recommends not to cook a lot at once, as the glue dries pretty quickly. After thirty minutes, the mixture will harden and cannot be used. We process the section of the wall with glue, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.

Next, the material is laid face down on the floor and is also treated with an adhesive solution over the entire area. For better installation, we recommend applying the adhesive with a second layer vertically. Next, the drywall is lifted and applied to the wall. It remains only to align it on a plane using a building level and a hammer made of wood or rubber.

Advice! We recommend installing small spacers about ten millimeters thick between the floor and the sheet. This will help the material expand with a sharp change in temperature or humidity. As a gasket, you can use the drywall itself.

The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out in the same way. The main thing is to take accurate measurements so that the adjacent sheets become correctly. We recommend paying special attention to the corners. Now let's take a closer look at the installation method with the installation of the frame.

Frame installation method

This method involves laying on the frame. The design can be made of metal or wooden bars. However, please note that the wooden frame must be well dried, otherwise the wood may dry out over time, which will lead to warping. And because of this, cracks or gaps may appear. Therefore, many professionals in the building trade recommend the use of metal profiles. They have good technical performance and can last for many years. The following photo shows an example of a wooden and metal frame for plasterboard wall cladding.

Frame installation

When choosing a metal structure, two profiles can be used: rack or guide. The guide profile is used to install the circuit and is attached to the ceiling and floor. They must be perfectly level. First, the profile is mounted to the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, the installation location on the floor is determined. Next, rack profiles will need to be inserted into the guide profiles. They will need to be connected with screws. The interval between the uprights should be approximately fifty millimeters.

In order for the frame to be firmly installed, the profiles are usually attached to suspensions, the installation of which takes place in advance. The suspension installation interval is approximately forty centimeters. The installed frame is visible in the photo below:

Drywall fixing

This is already much easier to install the frame. The main thing is to properly fit the drywall sheet and install it in the right place. For installation, professionals recommend using black self-tapping screws, as they are made of heavy-duty material.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in carefully so as not to deform the drywall. The number of screws will need to be determined in advance.

Wall putty

The final stage of installation will be puttying the wall. If the frame method was chosen, then first of all it is necessary to process the fixing points with a solution and only then the joints between the sheets. For putty, experts use a special tape called sickle. Then the wall is primed and treated with putty until it becomes perfectly smooth.

Finishing a wooden house

Sheathing walls with drywall in a wooden house, although a difficult task, the result is worth it. You will get absolute symmetry and perfectly even walls, which is a huge advantage for a wooden house. Also, plasterboard sheathing will additionally insulate the walls. After finishing, you can choose any coating for further cladding, whether it be wallpaper or decorative plaster. Let's look at the procedure for sheathing a wooden house in more detail. The preparation process for a wooden house is visible in the following photo.

Plasterboard sheathing

The first step is to take measurements and cut the sheets. This will require:

• mark with a ruler and pencil;
• with a sharp construction knife, make an incision in the top sheet;
• break the sheet according to the markup;
• bend the sheet at an angle and cut the back side of the drywall;
• on the cut material at the joints at a distance of about 10 millimeters, make markings;
• again make a cut with a construction knife;
• chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees;
• smooth out all irregularities with sandpaper.

Now you can start fixing the drywall. It is better to place the material in a checkerboard pattern, a slight shift is acceptable. Sheets are attached to the screws. Fasteners should be at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters. The closer the screws are, the better.

Finishing

Before proceeding to the finishing of the walls in a wooden house, check the location of the electrical wiring. Since it will be very difficult to disassemble the walls in order to fix everything.

Small grooves are formed at the joints during processing. They need to be filled with plaster and drown a sickle in them. This procedure will protect the coating from the formation of seams and cracks. Then all the recesses above the self-tapping screws are filled with plaster. The final procedure can be considered wallpapering or applying decorative plaster.

If you plan to stick wallpaper, you will need to pre-treat the wall with a primer. In order for the wallpaper to hold as well as possible, we recommend applying an additional layer of glue to the drywall. The next photo shows the result of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard.

Eventually

As you can see, plasterboard walls have a lot of advantages. Such a procedure will allow not only to align the walls, but also to insulate the house. The procedure for decorating walls with your own hands is quite difficult, but if you carefully follow the tips and recommendations, you will succeed. The interior decoration of a wooden house with drywall also allows you to strengthen the walls and protect them from moisture. We recommend watching the following video to see the process of finishing the walls with drywall:

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

During the overhaul of apartments, an important role is played by wall decoration. It has not only an aesthetic, but also a practical purpose - leveling the surface. This process can be done with both plaster and drywall. There are several options for doing this work: either a wooden beam and a frameless method using glue. Each of these options deserves special attention and has both positive and negative aspects. Those who decide to make repairs with their own hands with minimal time and effort will certainly be interested in the method of finishing the walls with drywall without using a frame and a profile.

In order for the repair not to be delayed, and the result of its implementation to be positive, you just need to follow a number of simple rules and stock up on the necessary tools.

Tool preparation

Such a simple inventory must be prepared before starting work:

1. Impact drill or puncher with a nozzle.
2. Spatula 100 mm wide.
3. A hammer.
4. Roulette 3 and 10 meters.
5. Construction pencil.
6. Stationery knife with a set of blades.
7. Rule 2.5-3 meters.
8. Level 80 cm.
9. Plumb.
10. Bucket plastic 10 l.
11. Brush-brush.
12. Flat rail 0.5 meters long.
13. Rubber mallet.
14. Chopping cord.

Finishing material must be purchased after all measurements have been completed, since only after measurements have been taken will the exact amount required be known.

Marking and measurements

Like any other work, wall cladding with drywall requires accurate measurements and does not tolerate haste. Regardless of whether you are doing repairs in an old apartment or a new building, you first need to check the diagonals of the room where the walls will be lined.

It is the measurement of the diagonals that allows you to find out how correct the perimeter of the room is: it has the shape of a rectangle with angles equal to 90 degrees, or a trapezoid with acute and obtuse angles.

In order to find out this, it is necessary to measure the distance between two diagonally opposite corners, write down the length. Then repeat the same procedure with the two remaining corners. The length of the two diagonals, as well as the length of the opposite walls, should be the same. This will mean that the room is leveled, and you can move on to the next step.

If the lengths of opposite walls or two diagonals do not match, the following steps must be taken:

• Having measured the length of the walls opposite each other, it is necessary to find out which of them is shorter and write down the minimum size.
• On the wall that is longer, measure this distance and mark with a pencil.
• Repeat the same with the other two walls.
• With the help of a chopping cord, project the perimeter of the room onto the floor, using the marks left on the walls.
• Measure the diagonals again.

After completing the above steps, the diagonals should align. Otherwise, one or two of the sides must be evenly shifted to the side until the diagonals fully match.

When the correct perimeter of the room is drawn on the floor, from each corner drawn with a plumb line, we draw a vertical level on the wall. Due to the fact that the top of the wall may be littered into the room, the vertical may not coincide with the angle drawn on the floor. In this case, it will be necessary to shift the drawn perimeter on both sides by the same distance. When all the planes are aligned, you can start measuring.

The distance between the lines drawn on the wall will allow you to determine the required amount of plasterboard, and the distance from the wall to the perimeter drawn on the floor will show how much glue you need to purchase.

Wall preparation

In a new building, the walls do not require special preparation. It is necessary to remove the remains of the solution (if any) from the sheathed surfaces and prime well with a deep penetration primer.

There is a little more work in the old apartments. First of all, you need to remove old wallpaper from the walls with a spatula. This will be easier to do if the wallpaper is pre-wetted with plenty of water using a maklovitsa. After that, you need to check the walls for swelling of the old plaster. This is easy to do by lightly tapping them with a hammer. Sprinkled areas should be well cleaned of dust, and then carefully primed all walls.

Important! To simplify the work, it is recommended to screw screws into the wall, which will play the role of beacons. Screws are screwed to the desired depth in the amount of 6 pieces per sheet. Subsequently, when the drywall is glued to the wall, such beacons will not allow the sheets to warp and sink during their pressing.

If the walls do not require the installation of additional wiring, then you can proceed to their lining.

Plasterboard cladding

Having followed all the tips listed above, it will not be difficult for anyone to finish what they started.

What can be used to glue drywall to the wall?

• With height differences up to 4 mm, it is suitable (or another high-quality gypsum composition), diluted to a creamy consistency, which is applied in an even layer on the entire surface of the drywall sheets or immediately on the wall.
• With differences up to 20 mm, Knauf Perflix glue or its equivalent is used to fix the sheets. It is applied to the wall or drywall with separate cakes, the distance between which should be 30–35 mm.

• If the height difference is greater, the adhesive consumption will be too high. Therefore, to reduce the cost and simplify the process on the wall with glue, GKL trimming is about 10 cm wide. You can use several of these pieces glued on top of each other, their number will depend on the magnitude of the differences.

Drywall adhesive is best applied directly to the wall. Moisture from the adhesive and the weight added by the adhesive can cause the sheet to break during installation.

After applying glue with cakes on the surface of the wall, it is necessary to attach drywall, focusing on the marks on the wall and floor.

Important! Plasterboard sheets are placed on the wall in such a way that cruciform joints are not obtained. In addition, you need to indent from the floor and ceiling and leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm, placing pieces of drywall under the sheets. These gaps are subsequently puttied or covered with skirting boards.

Hello my dear friend! Tired of throwing five-centimeter layers of plaster on the walls? Don't know how to hide wire loops or insulate a room? Maybe all your walls are cracked, and plastering is generally useless? We understand you and offer an excellent solution - plasterboard wall cladding. It is not at all difficult to do this with your own hands, if there are such sensible mentors, like our brave editors. Let's figure out in which cases the skin will be good, and in which - not so much.

Wall cladding example

1. The ability to eliminate any curvature of the base without additional labor costs.
2. It is possible to make soundproofing and insulation. Why do you need to freeze and listen at night to the cry of boozy gopars?
3. Speed, absence of dampness and dirt during the work.
4. The ability to hide and bypass communications, whether it be electrical, plumbing or the supporting structures of the building.

Disadvantages of drywall for sheathing

1. The thickness of the cladding, even without insulation and wiring, cannot be less than 4 centimeters.
2. Relatively high costs for good quality materials.
3. Low impact resistance.

It is clear that traditional plaster is more suitable for ordinary fairly even walls, but for special tasks the use of drywall will be more justified.

Material selection

Drywall drywall - strife. Sometimes on sale you can see such a dump that you grab your head. Our masters use only Gyproc brand drywall. Why not KNAUF -. For wall cladding, standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters are used, or sheets of increased strength (like Gyproc Strong), but they are still difficult to find on sale. We strongly recommend purchasing cardboard with a height greater than the height of the room, where you can avoid unnecessary work on installing jumpers, reinforcing and puttying extra joints, etc. If the height of the room is 275 cm, we take drywall 300 cm. We cut off the excess and mount it. Then we just have to putty the vertical joints and that's it.

Now for the profiles. The thickness of the metal is especially important here, at least 0.55 mm. Forget about all these "economy" type profiles from Leroy forever, let other fools buy them. In our business, once you save, you will regret it all your life. Or do you believe in a miracle for 40 rubles? If we talk about specific brands, you can safely take KNAUF, Gyproc-Ultra.

If you need to insulate, the best choice for you will be slabs of extruded polystyrene foam, for example, Penoplex. For noise insulation, mineral wool from 5 cm thick is best, such as ISOVER from Saint Gobain.

What you need for installation

1. Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
2. Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separating tape
5. "Dowel-nails" (another name is "Quick installation") 6 × 40 mm
6. Cord breaking device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. A hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
15. Perforator + drill
16. screwdriver
17. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
19. Deep penetration primer (Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
20. Direct hangers
21. Metal shears or grinder
22. Mineral wool ISOVER or KNAUF Insulation 50 mm thick (if sound insulation is required), Penoplex boards (if thermal insulation is needed)
23. Narrow and wide spatulas

Instructions for sheathing walls with drywall with your own hands

Step 1. Marking the frame and attaching the guides

If you are a happy owner of a laser level, you will very easily set the ideal plane for future cladding. If you only have a plumb or normal level, get ready to suffer a little. On the ceiling near the junctions to the side walls, mark two points. Transfer them to the floor with a plumb line and connect them all with a cord breaker (a cord with paint, if someone didn’t understand). We get a line on the floor, on the ceiling and one line on the side walls:

Facing frame marking

Now along these lines we will need to fix the guide profiles, but always through the Dichtungsband sealing tape. Its role in future noise and heat insulation is very significant. The profiles are fastened with “dowel-nails” 6 × 40 mm in increments of no more than 100 cm, it is best to do 50 cm. Strictly speaking, we need guides only from above and below, we put them on the sides for the convenience of subsequent exposure of the frame in a single plane. If you have a laser, you can not do side PNs.

Structural guide profiles

Step 2. Marking and installation of hangers

Since the sheet of drywall is 120 cm wide, you can set profiles in increments of 120, 60, 40, 30 cm. 120 is too much, the wall will turn out to be too “liquid”, 60 is already normal, 40 is if it is glued to drywall ceramic tile, 30 is overkill guys. We will consider the standard case - a step of 60 centimeters.

The first and last profile should be as close to the side walls as possible. Yes, this way we will not be able to fix one edge of the suspensions to them, but this is not necessary, this is the technology:

Cladding frame in section according to KNAUF technology

Instead of a separating tape, you can use ordinary transparent tape

As for the separator tape in this diagram. It is glued under the ceiling, if it is already finished, either with drywall or plaster. She creates the so-called. controlled crack, and the structures do not receive a rigid connection with each other. If we sheathe the wall, to which the stretch ceiling will then be mounted, the tape is not needed. But it is needed at the junction of the GKL to the neighboring walls, all in order to untie them. Read about how it works in general in the material about the plasterboard ceiling.

The second profile goes at a distance of 60 cm from the side wall, the third - 120 cm and so on. This is how we got the markup:

For ordinary apartments, 3 suspensions are enough for each profile

For each such line, 3 suspensions are needed, it is logical to arrange them evenly along the height of the room. For example, we have a ceiling height of 260 cm, which means that we will place the suspensions at heights of 65, 130 and 195 cm. They are mounted on “dowel-nails”, or ordinary nylon dowels and self-tapping screws with a press washer, so it will be more reliable. Here's what we got:

Close up view

Installation of direct suspensions on the wall

Step 3. Install profiles

Ceiling profiles should be 1 cm shorter than the height of the ceilings in the room, but we would recommend making a margin of 15 mm, because. half a centimeter was stolen from us by the sealing tape and the thickness of the guides. We DO NOT fasten the profiles to the guides, they must be untied. Remember, guides are only for guiding. There is no bearing function on them. We attach ceiling profiles only to hangers and nothing else. Here we have arranged them:

Frame racks

The best self-tapping screws with a press washer - from HILTI

The most difficult thing in plasterboard wall cladding is to set the entire frame into a single plane. It seems that you hold the profile, you start to twist a self-tapping screw into it, and all this garbage begins to shake, wobble, a self-tapping screw, it breaks all the time, creature. And so, you are all sweaty and angry, gritting your teeth, shouting out cursing and, as a result, you perforate your palm with a screwdriver bit. Okay, the dog is with him, covered it with electrical tape, drove on. And now, you seem to have twisted, you look - not in a plane! To avoid this, we strongly recommend using additional free labor and good self-tapping screws. One of you will rest the rule on the already set profiles, the second will tighten the screws. It is logical to go from the edges to the middle of the wall.

After the frame, it would seem, will be exposed, friend, do not be lazy and double-check everything properly. With a probability tending to 100 percent, somewhere something will sink or stick out. So, if on one hanger your profile sticks out, DO NOT beat it with your fist, bending the ears of the hanger. This will break the strength of the carcass in this area and, in general, to be honest, this is a little unprofessional. Remove the screw and tighten it normally. In the end, everything should look like this:

Finished wall cladding frame

If for some reason the sheets you have are less than the height of the room, you will have to install horizontal jumpers made of PP. You can do them as you install drywall, but it seems to us more convenient to use single-level connectors (CRABs) and do it still at the frame installation stage. At the same time, CRABs do not need to be screwed to the profiles, because. no load will be applied to them. This is how messy it will be:

Jumpers on CRABs

Step 4. Noise isolation

There is no need to chew anything here. You cut the mineral wool a little more than the distance between the racks and stuff it, avoiding voids:

Soundproofing with mineral wool ISOVER

Additionally, you fix it with the bent ends of the suspensions. The noise insulation index with this solution (1 layer of plasterboard and 5 cm of mineral wool) is 47 dB. It will hardly save you from perforators and the sounds of hot sex, but you are unlikely to hear the neighbor's TV set.

Thermal insulation is much more difficult. It must be done BEFORE the frame, all the joints of the plates must be foamed ... We will not talk about this for now, it should be taken out in a separate material.

Step 5. Installing drywall on the frame

Here are some important rules that no one cares about, and in vain.

1. The sheet should be raised above the floor by 10 mm and not reach the ceiling by 5 mm. It is the observance of this rule that protects the lining from cracks at the joints. The sheets simply hang on the profiles and do not rest against anything, just as the profiles themselves do not rest. Now think, why would such a structure crack? Exactly, there will be no cracks.
2. The sheet should not be fixed with screws to the guide profiles. The meaning is the same as in the first paragraph. No forces other than gravity will act on the sheets. That's the whole damn thing about drywall construction.

The rest is simple. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is 25 cm, they need to be tightened at a right angle. Leaves are arranged side by side. It will look like this:

Finished wall cladding

Sheathing with jumpers

Pay attention to the gaps at the top and bottom? They do not need to be filled or puttied with anything. About how to seal the joints of drywall sheets, we wrote in detail in the lesson on, so we will not repeat ourselves. Everything is the same here. If something was not clear, watch the video from Knauf:

Yes, we have analyzed the simplest case - a wall without windows and doors, but you need to start with a simple one, but we will definitely write about slopes and all sorts of other difficulties in the following materials. Subscribe so you don't miss out, and feel free to ask questions in the comments.

In contact with

Drywall sheets allow you to level the walls, skillfully hiding any irregularities, create a variety of protrusions and recesses, etc. The material is characterized by sufficient strength, it is easy to process and use, you can install such sheets without any problems.

Having understood the basic principles, you can independently align the walls of your house or, for example, make a new partition. It is only necessary to decide on the required form of the finished result and choose the optimal method for fixing the sheets.

There are two main methods of fastening drywall sheets, namely:

• installation on a pre-built frame;
• frameless fastening on the adhesive composition.

In some situations, for best results, the above methods are used in combination.

The base is assembled from a special plasterboard profile. At the end, it remains only to screw the sheets to the frame with screws and perform the required finishing work. The disadvantage of the frame technology is that the total thickness of the finished skin will be more than 4-5 cm, i.e. the useful area of ​​​​the room will significantly decrease.

Choose the appropriate fastening method. I want to fix the sheets as securely as possible - make a frame. It is important to keep the existing square - use the glue-based method.

Preparing walls for plasterboarding

Sheathing walls with drywall requires several preparatory steps.

It is highly recommended to get rid of the old wall covering before attaching the frame or gluing the sheets. Carefully remove it to the ground. Additionally, dismantling the old finish will free up a few centimeters that can be used for new skin, saving as much free space as possible.

This operation is not mandatory, but experts strongly recommend it. Additionally, the surface is treated with an antiseptic preparation.

The third stage is preliminary marking. To begin with, it will be enough to mark the boundaries above the floor and under the ceiling, from which the plasterboard walls will begin and end. Traditionally, a distance of 50 mm is postponed.

Frame Construction Guide

The first stage is the preparation of materials. A galvanized profile is used to assemble the frame for drywall. On the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, the so-called. UD profile. Dowels are used to fix such profiles.

The second stage is the installation of jumpers. After the starting profiles are fixed, proceed with the installation of vertical jumpers. For this, the so-called. CD profile. It is on him that the drywall will rely. The edges of the profile should “look” at the wall, with the wide side into the room. Fasten with self-tapping screws designed specifically for galvanized profiles.

Fasten the first main profile near the side wall. Fasten the following in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the distance must be set aside from the center of the installed profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next wall, the CD profile must also be fixed closely, regardless of the distance between it and the previous profile.

The third stage is strengthening the fasteners. To make the fixing of the profiles more reliable, it is highly recommended to use perforated hangers. These products have the form of galvanized strips with perforated ends. Such clamps need to be shaped like the letter “P” and fixed with their middles to the wall, placing them under each profile installed vertically. At the edges of the element there are "ears". Attach them to your profile. Check the evenness of the placement of all elements using a level and, if necessary, make adjustments.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of one sheet of drywall (standard 2.5 m), add the missing piece of material from below or above. At the joints, install jumpers from the CD profile you already know.

Installation of sheets and completion of work

The frame is ready, and you can safely proceed to the main work. It is also carried out in several stages and requires maximum care and responsibility from the master.

The first stage is the installation of drywall sheets. The material, as already noted, is attached to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long, made of hardened metal. It is more convenient, better and faster than most self-tapping screws to be screwed in with an electric screwdriver. Tighten until the fastener heads are flush with the drywall. Fasteners are twisted in increments of 100-150 mm in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Usually, the sheets initially have a center line, which makes installation easier.

The second step is filling in the gaps. In case one sheet of material is not enough to fill all the available space, take a new sheet and cut pieces of the required size from it. Drywall is remarkably cut with an ordinary construction knife. It is enough to simply cut the paper of the drywall sheet along the cut line and gently break the element, and then cut the paper on the reverse side in the same way. Fix the rest and proceed to the final finish.

The third stage is the finishing of the plasterboard structure. First you need to seal the seams. The sealing is carried out using a special self-adhesive mesh. The laid mesh must be puttied. Usually enough starting putty. It will allow you to get the most even surface.

To carry out further work, you need to decide what material will be used as a topcoat. For example, in the case of laying tiles or other opaque thick material, you should simply putty the joints of adjacent sheets, wait until the putty dries and move on to the finish lining. Putty is applied to drywall with a layer of about 1.5-2 mm, there is no need for a thicker coating.

Sand the surface with a sandpaper, and then treat the walls with a primer. If further painting is planned, the surface should be as smooth and even as possible. If there are irregularities, apply a new layer of putty, sand it and check the surface for irregularities. Repeat the above procedures if necessary.

If drywall walls are already made in a small room, arranging the frame can become an unaffordable luxury, because. because of it, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced by several square meters. In such a situation, the best option is to attach the sheets to the base with glue.

The first step is surface preparation. It is highly recommended to level the surface. Any kind of holes, bulges and similar defects will impair the adhesion of the sheets to the base. Use putty for leveling. After the putty has dried, prime the base.

Cut the drywall into sheets of the desired size. Above the floor and under the ceiling, leave gaps about 5 cm wide.

The third stage is the preparation of mounting holes. Drill holes in the wall to place the dowels. Fasteners must be screwed in so that their caps form a single plane with the base.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the adhesive solution. Glue is prepared from a dry mixture specially designed for such work and clean water. Read the manufacturer's instructions. It contains a recipe for your particular glue, because. for different mixtures, the procedure for preparing the solution may vary. The consistency of the finished mixture will resemble a paste. The glue dries very quickly, so it is strongly recommended to prepare it in small portions and immediately before starting work. The specific drying time is also indicated in the instructions.

The fifth stage is gluing sheets. Before attaching the sheets, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt and dust, because. dirt will reduce adhesion to the adhesive. Apply adhesive to the back of the sheets. Along the center line and edges of the sheet, the glue is applied in longitudinal strips, along the rest of the plane - in heaps. Such heaps should be made at most every 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to level the heaps into a continuous layer, because. this will lead to a significant increase in the consumption of the solution, and will also not allow the entire sheet area to be properly docked to the wall.

Place the drywall on the subfloor and press evenly. If necessary, you can compact the fixation with a rubber mallet. In this case, you first need to apply a wooden block to the sheet and knock on it with a hammer, otherwise you can punch holes in the coating.

Wait for the glue to harden. Information about the drying time must be given in the instructions. Please read this manual carefully before starting work and keep it until completion. Only after the glue has completely dried can you proceed to the next steps.

In this case, the already familiar self-adhesive tape is also used. Glue the tape to the seams and putty the joints so that they are at the same level with the main surface. Alignment is carried out using the starting putty.

Finishing putty is used only when necessary, for example, when drywall is being prepared for painting. In the end, it remains only to finish the walls with the selected coating.

Thus, drywall allows you to get perfectly smooth and even walls without wasting time and money. Choose the method of fixing the sheets that is best for your case and proceed with the installation. Follow the instructions and do not forget the recommendations received.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wall sheathing with drywall