How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands without distortions and leaks? Do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding: fashion for natural materials How to start lining with clapboard.

The construction of any building is completed interior decoration. The main criterion for the interior decoration of the house is to give it a well-groomed appearance and efficient operation. One of the most popular types today is the lining with eurolining.

The material is a thin board fixed around the perimeter of the room. Lining has been used for interior decoration for a long time. This type of interior decoration came to us from transport construction, when wooden panels were used for lining the wagons.

Material Properties

The lining has a number positive characteristics:

1. high environmental friendliness of the product;
2. pleasant appearance;
3. resistance to high and low temperatures;
4. increased;
5. no temperature coefficient.

Lining is actively used when sheathing walls:

• wooden houses, dachas, baths,
• terraces, balconies,
• as decoration for rooms
• for a bright accent in wooden buildings.

With the right choice of finishing material, the durability of such a finish can reach thirty years.

For craftsmen with experience in home wall cladding, fastening a wide lining is not a difficult task. The cost per square meter of sheathing is extremely low, with the exception of special surface decoration.

The lining is monotonous in appearance, but experienced designers are always ready to give it a universal look and find original wall mounts.

Initially, only wood was used in the construction of houses, but modern trends and craftsmen come up with other materials for lining. Today, this type of finish is widely used in modern construction and repair.

This material has rightfully gained its popularity. thanks to economy. Construction markets and shops are overflowing with a wide range of lining for interior decoration.

Kinds

The main types of lining different material, from which they are made. Every year there are new products presented by such materials as:

1. Aluminum, it is categorically not recommended for interior decoration due to the lack of resistance to high temperatures and an unpresentable appearance.
2. PVC panels- will save on the purchase of material, but will lose in terms of durability.
3. MDF- a rather pleasant material that easily fits into any interior. Wiring is easily hidden under MDF, and cleaning work is carried out.

Despite innovative technologies in construction, the traditional choice of many construction companies is still is a tree. Various types of wood are used, the most common are linden, cedar, ash, birch, and alder.

Which is better to choose?

For interior decoration of saunas, it is recommended to purchase hardwood, which does not allow moisture to pass through and does not release heat outside the room. with softwood finish will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

There is an opinion about the fragility of the tree and the influence of external factors on it. A few decades ago, one could agree with this opinion, but not today, when stores are overflowing with a huge selection of various wood care products.

When choosing the right wood, it is extremely her class is important:

• Extra- has no defects and chips, is considered an ideal option for repairs;
• BUT- does not have a core, knots and resin pockets are allowed on it (no more than two);
• B- material with two knots, two pockets, one spot of contrasting paint and two cracks can be attributed;
• C- already less suitable for finishing work, as it has a number of the above disadvantages.

Particularly popular There are 2 plating options:

1. horizontal sheathing - fasteners are made from the ceiling to the floor, which prevents the ingress of debris and moisture;
2. vertical sheathing is carried out from the corner, and on the reverse side of the board, the kleimer is placed in the groove, then attached to the crate.

How to sheathe a decorative clapboard "block house"?

Special attention should be paid on the decoration for the house - "block house". This finish is suitable for the living room, kitchen, hallway, and will be a great solution for the attic.

An important advantage will be that the block house technique allows the walls to breathe and create a pleasant microclimate for the inhabitants of the dwelling. This type of fastening will create improved sound insulation compared to the above methods.

Before performing work, the fittings and the amount of material are calculated. But an even more important process is to let the freshly purchased material lie down without packaging. about three days in the room where it will be installed.

Wall preparation

The panels are installed on dry and even walls, so the surface should not contain defects. The walls must be waterproofed with a special film or deep impregnation.

Without this procedure, the wood panels may not withstand the increased moisture content, and the work will have to be redone.

Areas with fungal lesions on the wall treated with an antiseptic. It is better to process all the walls with it. After thorough impregnation of the walls, they will become resistant to the negative effects of fire and mold. Impregnation with a water-repellent composition is required before starting such work.

Learn how to level walls with plaster from our article.

Optionally, you can install additional materials for thermal and soundproof construction. Styrofoam or mineral slabs are installed as sound insulation.

Vapor barrier film can be purchased with the purchase of facing material. Work begins with covering the walls with a film, which in the future will perform the function of steam insulation.

Frame manufacturing

The frame is made in the following steps:

Wooden panels are heavy, so for high-quality sheathing, you will need to make a reliable frame.

For a frame using the block house technique, a wooden base is suitable. The frame must be made of rails, the distance between which does not exceed 65 cm.

Before installing the frame, you need to outline the places where sockets, switches and other electronics will be located. These marks are needed in order to make cutouts in the cladding before installation.

The bars can be fixed to the wall, both with nails and mounting strips. After completion of the work on the manufacture of the frame, you can start decorating in the style of a block house with your own hands.

See the video clip for mounting the crate:

Panel mounting

Used for accurate measurement plumb, square and level. To calculate how much the board will be spent, you need to make simple calculations: divide the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the area of ​​​​one board.

By calculating the area of ​​​​one board, it is easy to find out how much material will be needed to cover the entire surface. When there is a shortage of panels, they are used additional clamps to fix the problem.

Fastening of wooden panels begins on a pre-installed crate. The starting bar is installed from below, with indented up to 1 cm, such a procedure is done to actively ventilate the walls and avoid further deformation of the material. A similar indent is made at the top of the wall.

Block house is set only in the horizontal direction. Sometimes craftsmen choose a vertical installation, but this method has a lot of disadvantages.

Fastening to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws at an angle of 30-45 degrees. A hole is made on the surface of the panel with a thin drill, and then a self-tapping screw is screwed into it.

The head of the self-tapping screw should not go deeper than 3 mm.

Next, the panels are gradually installed from the bottom up. When installing the panel, the spike should look up. Between themselves, the wood is connected with the help of spikes and grooves. If desired, corner joints are fastened with corners.

There are several ways to hide the heads of self-tapping screws:

1. With the help of material left over from work.

Corks are formed from scraps and fixed with PVA glue in the recesses. Uneven places are smoothed out with sandpaper.

2. You can use "wooden paste" made from PVA glue and sawdust.

The thick composition is poured into the holes. The disadvantage of the method is the possible mismatch in the color of the composition and wood.

3. Special plugs, which can be bought at a hardware store, will easily close the bumps.

Attached with PVA glue.

For detailed installation of panels, see the video:

Corner decoration

Making corners using the block house technique causes difficulty with self-plating.

You can pre-purchase "boats" for finishing the inner corners and elements specially designed for external corners. Finished plinths will be in close contact with the block house only at the top point, as a result of which the skin will have open gaps, and this is unacceptable.

Much more convenient to use planed timber 5x5. Its installation is carried out before the start of the sheathing. The block house is attached to the timbers and the finish will look much smoother and more professional. This method is effective for inside and outside corners.

The final stage is surface grinding, but such work should be done with caution. One awkward move can break the structure of the board.

How to accurately make corners, see this video:

Which coating to choose: paint or varnish?

• alkyd;
• acrylic;
• linen.

Impregnation will significantly extend the service life of the Blockhouse, reduce the occurrence of cracks on the surface, and, most importantly, give the wood fire-resistant and bioprotective properties.

In the event that naturalness is an important point, and you want to preserve the appearance of the tree, varnishing will be an alternative to painting. The surface for varnish must be perfectly clean and free of any extraneous irregularities.

To work on the walls you will need a roller or a regular paint brush. Coating is made in several layers, except for the first tonic impregnation with stain.

Which of the coating methods to choose will depend on the desire of the owner of the premises. If he's into traditional design and wants to keep the natural look of his walls, he'll need a lacquer solution.

If the room is planned as a youth room or the walls should become a bright accent, of course, preference should be given.
If the finish is done at the highest level, the room will look noble and presentable.

The cost of installation of lining

Installation of wooden lining is a labor-intensive process, consisting of many operations: preparing the walls, installing the crate, attaching the material to the walls and final impregnation.

The detailed cost of the work looks like this:

1. Assembly and preparation of the crate 180 rubles.
2. Wind protection device 150 rubles.
3. Covering structural elements with an antiseptic 30 rubles.
4. Installation 400 rubles.
5. Impregnation with varnish or paint 70 rubles.

For a more accurate answer to the question of the cost of work, you should contact the representatives of the construction company.

Lining is a natural material that is perfect for facing the house inside and out. Not everyone knows how to properly sheathe walls, so they prefer to hire a team of builders. However, in fact, anyone who wants to make a skin can do it.

Features of finishing work using lining

Wall cladding with clapboard is in no way inferior to siding or profiled sheeting. The material is considered universal by experts. This board has a tongue and groove. In addition, depending on the profile, it has a layer. Its design looks great. It will be able to reliably protect the building from blowing from the outside. Not a single finishing material can be compared with it, if we consider the cleanliness and environmental friendliness of the indoor climate.

Variety of options

Sheathing a house, as a rule, begins with the selection of the right material. In this case, the purpose of the room must be taken into account. Depending on the profile, it is divided into the following options:

• Clapboard panel. Her profile is simple and technological. It costs from 100 rubles.
• Eurolining is distinguished by the presence of recesses on the wrong side of the panel. Through them, drainage and ventilation of fumes and moisture are carried out. It can be used for facade cladding. The average cost of this product is 200 rubles.
• American designed for exterior decoration. This material costs at least 190 rubles per m2.
• The block house imitates a round tree, as it has a convex profile on the outside. Like a simple lining, it has a flat inner side with grooves and spikes on the side. Its price is 250 rubles.

Varieties of varieties

"Extra" is the designation of the highest quality material. It has a smooth and even surface, no knots or defects. This is the most expensive option. If you want to save at least a little, you will need to turn to grade "A". Here, a living knot is found on a certain surface area. "B" may have minor defects in addition to knots. Grade “C” is considered the cheapest, but it has almost no aesthetic appeal.

To choose the best option for yourself, it is useful to watch the video:

How many squares are in a cubic meter?

When purchasing material, it is important to have certain knowledge. For example: what area can cover one cube. This value can change its value: it all depends on the thickness of the purchased products. The quadrature allows you to find out how much m2 of lining is in one cube.

• You can calculate it if you measure the thickness of the coating (12 - 25 mm). This figure is converted to meters. If the thickness of the product is 16 mm, then 0.016 m, respectively, comes out.
• A cubic unit is divided by the resulting number: 1: 0.016 \u003d 62.5 squares.

Material required for lining inside

• In the room, measure the width and length. Additionally, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is calculated if it is planned to be sheathed.
• The area of ​​​​the walls is calculated based on the height and length.
• All obtained indicators are added together. From here, the quadrature of openings is taken away: windows and doors.

Building material for outdoor decoration

• When calculating the area, the method given above is used.
• Quadrature of the gables by multiplying the height by the length. The resulting value is divided by 2.
• The results of each wall are summed up, and the area of ​​the openings is subtracted from the result.

Finding out the number of boards in the cube of the lining will allow multiplying the total area by the thickness.

What are the types of upholstery work?

Traditionally, a distinction is made between interior and exterior decoration. For the second type, you should choose the euro standard.

Sheathing of walls with clapboard is performed both vertically and horizontally. Regardless of the choice, you need to make a frame. Wooden blocks are used as guides. The optimal cross section is 30x60 mm.

The guides must be fixed to the walls using linings with iron hangers, specially designed for gypsum boards. The lining is attached to the guides with thin nails or kleimers. Thus, it is possible to sheathe almost any room.

Finishing outside

For this purpose, 2, 1 and the highest grade are considered the most suitable. If painting will be done with a colorless varnish, then you will need "Extra" or "A". Only these materials do not have falling knots.

3 stages of house cladding

Outside, finishing work is carried out in stages:

• markup
• Mounting
• Stitching

In addition to traditional methods: vertical and horizontal, there is an alternative - herringbone lining. The last option is considered the most economical.

To install racks that act as guides, you need to use a level or plumb line. There should be 2 racks for each corner of the building. Boards or bars are used. They are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

Bars are installed horizontally and vertically near doors and windows. To ensure a flat plane, the upholstery cord is stretched from above and below. Having installed vertical bars, guides are set.

Beginners should know how to properly sheathe walls with clapboard. For fastening in this case, the method of open fasteners is used. The screw is screwed into the boards directly. In this case, you should take care that the fasteners are located on the same line.

If you hire a construction company, then their services are not cheap. For m2, you will have to pay at least 350 rubles, taking into account the complexity of the lining and the type of insulation. Therefore, the savings are obvious if you decide to sheathe the house with a clapboard with your own hands.

Sheathing inside

Here again you will need racks with guides. Only the mount is called hidden. It is performed with kleimers or thin nails hammered into the grooves. The interior finishes also have significant differences. The board is high quality. Additional work is being carried out to ensure thermal insulation and waterproofing of the walls.

When the room has sloping walls, the frame is mounted taking into account the slope. The interior decoration of the walls with the clapboard of the room is carried out with a board with dimensions of 30x50 mm.

First of all, make markings for corner posts. In addition to them, horizontal connections are fixed. The resulting contour is used as a guide.

Finishing depends on the material from which the house is built. If the building is made of wooden building materials, then the vertical posts should not rest against the ceiling or floor. They need to be mounted at a distance of 2 or 2.5 cm. This is due to the fact that the walls in this case can be constantly deformed. The price, if you hire a team, will vary between 600 -1,000 rubles. The video will introduce you to all the stages of installation inside:

Trusting professionals, you can count on fast and high-quality results. This approach is practical. Doing everything with your own hands, you can save 2 times. Finishing a house with clapboard is not impossible. It takes time and desire.

Not everyone knows how to sheathe the walls with clapboard with their own hands, so there is only one option left - to hire workers. However, in any case, such a solution leads to additional costs.

That is, you will have to not only spend finances on the purchase of products, but also pay for the work. From an economic point of view, it is much more profitable to do the finishing yourself.

The main purpose of the cladding

First of all, the choice is stopped on this coating due to its attractive appearance and environmental friendliness. Although the finishing surface looks a little old-fashioned, it is natural and can be assembled in a short time, which is not the case with many other claddings.

Don't believe? Then see for yourself.

However, after installation, painting or impregnation with protective compounds is necessary, otherwise the aesthetic qualities will quickly be lost.

When asked about how to sheathe a house with clapboard, they usually pursue two goals:

• Protection of the building from all kinds of manifestations of nature.
• Making the design aesthetic.

Note! These products can cope with the tasks with particular ease, so installation does not require special knowledge and skills. In addition, the price of the product is quite attractive.

Execution of work

Serious difficulties should not arise during the finishing, since the process itself does not involve intricate actions. It is necessary to adhere to the basic requirements for installing panels.

Only well-dried products are suitable for work, in connection with this, strips that have passed through the autoclave should be purchased. If necessary, you can buy raw products in May in order to carry out installation in August (2-3 months is enough for natural drying).

Required cladding kit

• Directly the wooden panels themselves, which can be made from different breeds. However, pine is especially popular.
• Bars or edged boards for the construction of the crate. As a rule, they are attached after about 40-50 centimeters.
• Dowels or self-tapping screws used to fix the supporting structure (depending on the material of the walls).
• Kleimers for attaching planks to the base. You will also need small nails or staples, which is often indicated on the video.
• Hammer or regular stapler. As for the first tool, it is better to choose a small hammer.
• Any paint and varnish product necessary for processing the coating. It is selected depending on the conditions of use.
• High quality wood primer.

Addition! If additional insulation is expected, then at the same time a heat-insulating material and a vapor-tight membrane will be needed. As for the last product, it will be required when finishing on the inside.

Lathing device

The supporting frame is installed if the question arises of how to sheathe a log house with clapboard or how to finish stone walls. In some cases, wood planks can be fixed directly to the old surface, as long as it is level and strong.

However, it is best to do the crate.

When creating it, there are certain points that you should pay attention to:

• The size of the bearing element should not be less than 20×40 mm. When using thermal insulation, it is necessary to focus on its thickness. The length of the racks is determined by the dimensions of the premises.
• The structure is fastened to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, and to concrete or brick surfaces - with dowels. It is not recommended to make a distance of more than 50 centimeters.
• It is necessary to place all racks perpendicular to the wooden panels. At the same time, the covering elements can be installed both vertically and horizontally.
• All frame elements must lie in the same plane. To achieve this, you should use the building level. For leveling, it is better to put wooden wedges.

Attention! For the supporting structure, it is desirable to use a single beam, and not separate parts, then the system will be the most durable. In this regard, the operating period will also increase.

Panel installation

Before sheathing the walls with clapboard, you must choose one of the methods for attaching the coating elements. However, you also need to measure the room or facade in order to cut a certain number of boards.

After that, you can fix the panels to the crate by choosing one of three common options:

1. Fastening with clamps is considered the most optimal option, since no elements are driven into the product itself. This method is quite accurate and reliable.
2. Hidden fixation with staples is performed using a stapler. Fasteners are driven at an angle of 45 degrees directly into the bar spike. With this method, the next board enters without problems.
3. Secret fastening with nails suggests the same thing as in the previous paragraph. The difference lies only in the fasteners used. To drown the hat, a doboynik is used.

Note! Having familiarized yourself with how to sheathe a room with clapboard, using the methods listed above is quite simple. However, there are actually other interesting methods.

Coating processing

All sorts of varnishes, paints, glazes or special impregnations are used to decorate the surface. Most often they use varnishes, because it is believed that paints deprive wood of its natural possibilities.

Of course, recently, products of this type have appeared on the market, allowing air to pass through, but the natural pattern is not visible under them. Thus, being interested in how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you should learn more about paint and varnish products.

Choosing the right product

High-quality material always has an attractive appearance and is perfect for decorating a room for any purpose. However, there are some characteristic features that largely determine the use of products.

An important role in the choice of wood panels is played by the type of wood, as well as the class to which it belongs. Therefore, it is necessary to study not only how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, but also pay attention to the selection process.

Purchasing outdoor products

External cladding protects the structure from adverse environmental influences, while performing a decorative function. Therefore, a special requirement is imposed on the type of wood.

The result should be a coating that can successfully withstand dampness, thermal shocks and other negative factors.

• Oak is an excellent contender for outdoor cladding. It has a wide range of colors, which ranges from light yellow to red-brown. However, the most important quality is strength.
• Larch has a high resistance to decay. In addition, it has a pronounced texture. The disadvantages include the complexity of processing, which greatly increases the cost.
• Cedar- a coniferous representative, who is also not afraid of rotting. Its wood has noble tones.
• Merbau acts as an exotic option. Its texture can be considered for a long time. The advantages include resistance to moisture, ultraviolet radiation and temperature fluctuations.

Note! For outdoor work, in fact, many breeds are suitable. The more valuable they are, the better and better the coverage will be. This statement also applies to durability.

Purchase of products for interior decoration

Before sheathing the walls with clapboard, you need to understand that the inside is devoid of negative influences such as precipitation and ultraviolet rays. Therefore, less stable breeds with an aesthetic appearance can be used for it.

These include:

• Maple characterized primarily by a wide range of colors and a noble texture. It is quite durable and perfectly amenable to grinding. He has almost no flaws.
• Ash is also a promising breed for interior decoration. The surface contains small vessels, and a peculiar ornament is formed on the cut.
• Nut has sufficient hardness, but it is easy to process. Structures and colors are largely determined by the region of growth. Does not deform during operation.
• Cherry has an easily recognizable noble shade. Over time, its wood darkens.

Note! As for the interior space, a wider range opens up for it, and this, in turn, opens up huge prospects for design solutions.

Information in conclusion

Thanks to this instruction, it is easy to understand how to sheathe a wall with clapboard, as well as other surfaces. Immediately before the work, it remains only to calculate the required amount of material, which is actually very simple. For this, the area of ​​each individual plane is calculated.

Wall cladding is one of the final stages in the construction of a frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, the reliability of protection against moisture and cold depend on this. In addition, sheathing serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as a finishing coating and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.

Sheathing gives the frame of the structure a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, the absence of shrinkage during operation. The walls must retain their original shape for years, regardless of the surrounding conditions. In addition, the sheathing must be resistant to moisture, sudden changes in temperature, and the effects of microorganisms.

Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its ductility during processing. If you plan to sheathe with your own hands, this aspect is of great importance, because it depends on how much effort and time it will take to work. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time keep the density on the cuts, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you do not have to change the skin every 10-15 years.

Material selection

There are several types of materials that more or less meet the specified requirements: moisture resistant plywood, DSP, OSB, edged board, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.

Oriented Strand Board (OSB)

OSB panels rightfully belong to the most popular materials in the arrangement of frame structures. They consist of layers of glued wood chips and chips, and in the outer layers the fibers are arranged longitudinally, inside - transversely. Synthetic resins and wax are used to bind the chips, giving the finished boards water-repellent properties.

Standard production provides for the production of these plates in several categories:

• OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical stress;
• OSB-2 is used in the installation of load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
• OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity, used in the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.

In terms of quality-functionality-price, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. The plates lend themselves perfectly to grinding, cutting, drilling, tightly hold nails even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such sheathing can simultaneously serve as a decorative coating for walls, it is enough just to treat it with waterproof varnish or paint it.

OSB Advantages:

• dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
• plates have elasticity and high strength, perfectly resist vibrations, compressive loads, various deformations;
• the material is resistant to weathering and temperature extremes;
• OSB is resistant to microorganisms, insects and rodents do not like it.

Disadvantages:

• very low vapor permeability;
• combustibility;
• the content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).

Main characteristics

Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

Cement particle boards (DSP)

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). A standard plate has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large chips. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, long service life. Plates are widely used in private construction, industrial, for work inside and outside the premises.

When sheathing the frame, such plates serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, as they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material endures 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without loss of its characteristics; in the future, the strength of the plates decreases by about 10%. Among wood-based materials, DSP is the leader in terms of environmental and technical indicators.

Advantages:

• very low hygroscopicity;
• resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
• DSPs are not damaged by insects and rodents;
• the material does not emit toxic substances;
• low thermal conductivity;
• Fire safety.

Disadvantages:

• mechanical processing of plates requires considerable effort;
• DSP has a large weight compared to other materials;
• when cutting and drilling plates, a lot of fine dust is formed, so you need to work in a respirator;
• high price.

Specifications

Fibreboard (Fibreboard)

The material is sheets of pressed shavings, usually softwood. During the pressing process, the raw material is strongly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesives. Due to this, fiberboard belongs to environmentally friendly materials, and therefore is suitable for outdoor use and for finishing residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the plates from mold.

In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in terms of heat and sound insulation properties.

Windproof plate "Beltermo"

Now in the construction market, fiberboards are represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For sheathing a frame house, plates with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used, thinner sheets are used indoors.

Advantages:

• light weight;
• low thermal conductivity;
• ease of installation;
• the material does not exfoliate and does not crumble;
• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to moisture and microbial attack;
• the absence of harmful substances in the composition.

Disadvantages:

• high price;
• a long stay without a decorative finish causes slight deformation of the sheets;
• the outer skin of fiberboard requires the presence of spacer braces in the frame or a rigid inner skin.

Specifications

Prices for wood fiber boards (MDF)

Fibreboard (Fibreboard)

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from drywall in greater density, uniformity, and the absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, soundproofing properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, GVL also exceeds gypsum boards by several times.

Installation of GVL is carried out in a frame and frameless way. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the bearing racks with self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite easy to install. Such a sheathing serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.

Advantages:

• low hygroscopicity;
• vapor permeability;
• the absence of toxic compounds in the composition;
• fire safety;
• high heat and sound insulation properties.

Disadvantages:

• lack of plasticity and brittleness when bending the sheet;
• great weight.

Specifications

Plywood

Plywood is made by gluing thin sheets of veneer of various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). Sheets are stacked perpendicular to each other relative to the location of the fibers, which increases the mechanical strength of the material and increases resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood of increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm, thinner material will not provide the necessary rigidity to the frame.

The grade of plywood does not really matter for sheathing, and the cheapest unsanded 4/4 grade boards can be used.

From the outside, all defects will be hidden under a hinged facade, so there is no point in overpaying. Subject to the sheathing technology, the plywood coating will serve for years without losing its qualities.

Advantages:

• high flexural and compressive strength;
• moisture resistance;
• wear resistance;
• ease of processing and installation;
• frost resistance.

Disadvantages:

• combustibility;
• content of formaldehyde resins;
• tendency to chipping.

Specifications

plywood prices

Edged board

The use of edged boards for sheathing is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, easy to install. Boards can be filled not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although most often the sheathing is made solid. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated facade.

In order for the sheathing to be reliable, the boards are chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm, they can be tongue-and-groove, for greater docking density. Do not use raw lumber: in the process of drying, the wood will begin to warp, deformations of the finish coating may appear.

Advantages:

• wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
• boards are easy to process;
• work does not require large financial costs.

Disadvantages:

• combustibility of the material;
• wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
• fitting and fixing elements takes a lot of time.

Edged board prices

Cladding technology

Installation of plates on the finished frame is carried out according to the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the cladding, vapor barrier and wall insulation are performed, and finishing can be done immediately upon completion of construction or after some time. Consider the installation technology using the example of frame sheathing with OSB boards.

Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without crate. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and the OSB, in the second - on top of the skin. The batten option is used in cases where the OSB serves as the basis for plastering, painting or tiling, the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Step 1. Start trimming from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the racks of the frame so that the lower edge completely overlaps the lower trim of the house. Be sure to control the horizontal level. The plate itself is also recommended to be placed horizontally, and not vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. For fixing the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. About 10 mm must be retreated from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Advice. For strong fixation of the plates, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam by less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads, the sheathing will begin to break away from the supporting base.

Step 2 The next plate is installed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, they set the horizontal level, screw the sheathing to the frame guides. The joints of the plates must necessarily fall in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. The rest of the plates are fixed in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.

Step 3 The second row of sheathing must be mounted with dressing of vertical seams. Between the lower and upper plates, the same gap of 2-3 mm is observed. When sheathing openings, whole sheets should be used, and not trimmings - the fewer joints, the tighter the sheathing. Cutouts in the sheets are made with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw, having previously marked out to the nearest millimeter. The edges of the cuts after the installation of the slab must ideally coincide with the lines of the openings.

Step 4 The top plates are installed so as to completely cover the top trim. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed by the middle of the slab - in no case can the OSB be joined on this line.

Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house with OSB trim

Gallery 2. Sheathing with OSB boards of a two-story frame house. Example

Step 5 After completing the installation, a windproof membrane is attached over the skin. Her canvases are stretched horizontally and fixed with stapler staples to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging either.

Step 6 Next, the laths of the crate are stuffed for finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The laths must first be treated with a protective compound and dried. After that, you can proceed with the installation of siding, lining or other decorative coating for the house.

On a note! If it is planned to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, respectively, is mounted only on the inside of the house.

With this method of sheathing, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls into the cells of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film. Slabs for interior decoration are sewn over the vapor barrier, for example, drywall or the same OSB.

Video - How to sheathe a frame house from the outside

Siding is a popular type of exterior cladding. Suitable for many types of residential and industrial buildings. This option is especially relevant for buildings made of foam blocks and SIP panels.

The light weight of the finishing material does not exert a large load on the base of the structure, so old wooden structures can be sheathed with siding. The popularity of siding is associated with its low cost, long service life and a wide selection of textures and colors.

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Preparatory activities

The quality of the exterior finish and the period of its operation will depend on the quality of the preparatory work performed. The essence of the preparation is as follows:

1. 1. Remove protruding elements.
2. 2. Using mounting foam, fill in the existing gaps in the walls, near windows and doors.
3. 3. Clean the surface of the outer walls of the building from accumulated dirt. Remove old finishing material, mold and rotten parts.
4. 4. If the cladding will be done on wooden walls, then treat them with antiseptic solutions.
5. 5. Treat foam block walls with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing device



Equipping the frame, you need to observe the following measures:

1. 1. Mount vertical bars 30/40, 50/50. You can use metal profile racks - PP 60/27. When using wooden products, they must be treated with an antiseptic.
2. 2. When installing vertical racks, the distance between them is 40-60 cm.
3. 3. Mount the beam to the walls with hangers. They can be short, medium or long. Choosing between them, you need to know the thickness of the heat insulator, on which the distance from the wall to the material depends.
4. 4. Hangers are fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws. When finishing a wooden building with siding, you can attach the bars to the wall only if it is even.
5. 5. Decorate the corners by connecting the racks to each other. Make sure they are at a 90 degree angle to each other.
6. 6. The installation of the crate is carried out after the installation of the corner posts. Place a string between them. It is necessary to fix the remaining racks.



Warming

The laying of the heat-insulating material is carried out in the gap that has formed between the crate and the wall.



For this, various heaters are suitable:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• penoplex.



For maximum reliability, the heat-insulating material is additionally fixed to the wall.

More details about the arrangement of the frame and insulation from the following video:

Angle profile fasteners

Installation can be carried out only after the drainage system has been installed on the foundation. Its upper part will be concentrated along the previously marked line. Although this design is rigid, it is much easier to mount than a flexible launch pad. Mount corner profiles with self-tapping screws. Fasten them to the top of the hole. Next, screw the fasteners into its middle.



To increase the length, install the upper bar on the lower one with an overlay of the edge, which will be 2-3 cm. Mount the first bar along the lines marked in advance on top of the drainage system. Step back from the bottom edge of the corner profile upwards 5 cm and attach the first strip.

Mount window strips near the window. This should be done in such a way that the outer edge, compared to the outer one, is concentrated lower by a level of 2-3 cm. Use the J-profile to line the doorways. The corners of these planks are sharp, and they can be obtained by washing down.

For vertical mounting of H-profiles in pre-designated places, a level is used. Leave a gap of 5-6 cm to the level of the eaves and foundation. This will protect the bar from deformation during expansion. The J-profile is fixed where the end of the roof is.

Fixing panels



When starting finishing work, the following recommendations must be observed:

1. 1. Fastening of the initial panel is carried out with self-tapping screws. It is fixed in the longitudinal direction to the transverse racks. Start working from the bottom of the wall. The peculiarity of fastening the material is that the finishing is carried out, moving from the bottom up.
2. 2. Each blade is equipped with grooves at the bottom and top. Insert the lower part into the initial panel, and put on the upper groove and snap the panel of the second row into place.
3. 3. There is a cutout on the sides of the siding. Its main task is to ensure that one panel goes to the previous one. This avoids the gap between them.
4. 4. When the J-profile is attached to the last row of siding, the wall cladding is complete. The siding has holes for ventilation, so no vapor barrier is required.

You can learn more about siding from the video:

Pediment sheathing

To finish the pediment you need:

1. 1. Arrange the frame in advance. The bars are fixed with self-tapping screws. Keep a distance of 30-40 cm between them. Installation of the crate should be carried out near the openings, in the corners, above and below the gable.
2. 2. Finishing is carried out first on the transverse external and internal corners. Then the connecting plate is installed. Screw the fasteners into the upper hole, and then into the remaining ones.
3. 3. When all vertical strips have been fixed, you can mount the initial strips. With the help of the J-profile, the near-window is fixed.
4. 4. After completing the installation of fittings, you can mount the siding rails. The vinyl rail is included in the lock of the initial bar. The top panel is reinforced with a J-profile.

The decoration of the pediment is clearly shown in the following video:

Home decoration with siding is one of the most popular today. This is explained by the attractive appearance of the house, low price and ease of installation work. Having spent a minimum of time and effort, you can insulate the house, protect it from adverse atmospheric factors, and give it a presentable appearance.