How to cut the door leaf to height. Instructions on how and with what tool you can cut the interior door in height

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How to properly trim an interior door

Each person, buying a door, hopes that it will not be necessary to repair it for a very long time. For this, many people order doors from professionals to be sure of their quality. But there is nothing eternal in life, and repairing an apartment is an inevitable action. After you install linoleum or laminate on the floor, the interior door, by definition, will begin to close and open poorly, as the floor height has increased. Therefore, you will need to trim the door so that it opens freely and does not creak. If you leave the solution of this problem for later, you can simply ruin the door. And do not forget that buying a new model will not be cheap, because now no one has extra money.

If you want to saw off the bottom of the door on your own, for this you will need a circular saw. With it, you can shorten the doors without even removing them from the hinges. First of all, you need to take accurate measurements so as not to cut off the excess, then calm down so that your hand does not tremble, and begin to act. Remember that the gap between the floor and the door should be more than five millimeters. In this case, the door will look like a “poured” one and none of the relatives and friends will see outside interference. Shortening of the door can also be done with a hand router. In this case, the door will have to be removed from the hinges. Then it will need to be laid on a flat surface and properly secured with clamps, pressing a wooden block on top of it, which must be leveled. It will serve as a guide for the router. It must be installed in such a way that the cutter removes the wood at exactly the distance it was planned - no more, no less.

As you already understood, you will have to suffer with a milling cutter. Yes, and this process will take more time than the first version of trimming the door. You will have to make several approaches, while gradually delving into the canvas. But do not forget that this method is more reliable and it will be easier for you to avoid irreparable errors. Experiment, try to achieve everything on your own, but do not forget that your actions must be carried out within reason.

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Each person, buying a door, hopes that it will not be necessary to repair it for a very long time. For this, many people order doors from professionals to be sure of their quality. But there is nothing eternal in life, and repairing an apartment is an inevitable action. After you install linoleum or laminate on the floor, the interior door, by definition, will begin to close and open poorly, as the floor height has increased. Therefore, you will need to cut the door so that it opens freely and does not creak. If you leave the solution of this problem for later, you can simply ruin the door. And do not forget that buying a new model will not be cheap, because now no one has extra money.

If you want to saw off the bottom of the door on your own, for this you will need a circular saw. With it, you can shorten the doors without even removing them from the hinges. First of all, you need to take accurate measurements so as not to cut off the excess, then calm down so that your hand does not tremble, and begin to act. Remember that the gap between the floor and the door should be more than five millimeters. In this case, the door will look like a “poured” one and none of the relatives and friends will see outside interference. Shortening of the door can also be done with a hand router. In this case, the door will have to be removed from the hinges. Then it will need to be laid on a flat surface and properly secured with clamps, pressing a wooden block on top of it, which must be leveled. It will serve as a guide for the router. It must be installed in such a way that the cutter removes the wood at exactly the distance it was planned - no more, no less.

As you already understood, you will have to suffer with a milling cutter. Yes, and this process will take more time than the first version of trimming the door.

where / how to cut the door leaf neatly?

You will have to make several approaches, while gradually delving into the canvas. But do not forget that this method is more reliable and it will be easier for you to avoid irreparable errors. Experiment, try to achieve everything on your own, but do not forget that your actions must be carried out within reason.

Few of the craftsmen know exactly how to shorten the door correctly, since this requires certain skills, and, of course, experience. After all, damaging a door is a matter of minutes, and fixing it is a complex and tedious process. Of course, the most ideal option is to turn to professionals who have the necessary knowledge and tools for this “operation”. Today, you can get confused in the variety of companies that offer these services, and even more so to understand which of them is the best and most profitable option for you. But you should not despair, you just need to know a few rules:

  1. You should not contact a company that has recently declared itself, and in the information it says that it has been on the market for decades. In this case, shortening interior doors may result in the purchase of new ones.
  2. If you decide to save money, you should not order the services of private companies, it is better to take advantage of government repair offers. So you save a certain amount of money, and you will be happy with the result.
  3. In order to find an inexpensive company, you first need to compare prices for the services offered. After that, you can safely order the master.
  4. As soon as the master crossed the threshold of your house, once again specify the price for his services. If they are much higher, you can immediately call his company and clarify the terms of the transaction again.

How to trim a door to keep the veneer

... to bring readers up to date, initially there was a question - how to increase the doorway by 3-4 cm in height ... how to cut concrete, etc. I suggested that instead of sawing concrete, shorten the door itself in height ...)

Of course... if new door, probably beautiful, veneered ... but the veneer can also be cut so that it is not noticeable ...

If this idea interests you, I'll tell you more ...

You will need the following tools: a ruler, a square (the more the better), a circular saw with a parallel stop, a construction knife, a wide adhesive tape, a pencil, glue veneer for sealing a cut in the color of the door, an iron, a good mood, 5-6 square meters. meters and 2-3 hours of free time;)))

1. Equip the workplace. It is desirable that these be two flat tables on which you can lay the door flat and securely so that it does not dangle and sway. If the house has clamps, it would be nice to fix the door with them. If there are no tables, two stools can come up, the main thing is that it is convenient to work and nothing interferes around ... If something moves during the work, there is a risk of ruining the door ...

2. Mark up - measure how much to cut. You use the ELECTRON, carefully checking the “parallelism” and “perpericularity” ... You make the markup on both sides. Check 2 times the correctness of the markup.

3. Take a sharp construction knife (it is also called “wallpaper”), push it out a little and start cutting through the veneer to the main door leaf. The main thing is to cut a “groove” in the veneer, along which the circular saw itself will go. The groove should be the width of the cut. You can try sawing with a circular saw on some workpiece and measure the cut.
Before grooving and actually sawing, you can stick a wide tape on both sides of the veneer. Skoch will keep the veneer from chipping ...
The groove is cut along the ruler in several passes, first with light pressure, then more and more increasing pressure on the knife. You cut a "groove" around the entire door, the main thing is that the groove "converges", so it is important to make the correct markup ...

4. Actually drank. The saw blade should be carbide-tipped with as many teeth as possible. If the circular speed is regulated, set it to the maximum. Set the depth of cut a little more than the thickness of the door. Install the parallel stop. Check with a square the transverse installation of the disk in relation to the frame of the circular. Turn on the saw, wait until the blade picks up maximum speed. Feed the circular very smoothly, without jerks ... especially at the "input" and "output" of the wood. Phew, it's done ;))))
Peel off the adhesive tape from the cut.

The master will help you saw off the door from below

Small scratches left from the circular are removed with a “sandpaper. Large chips (if any: () are glued to PVA glue or any other suitable one. But if you do everything carefully, there should be no chips.

5. The resulting cut can be closed with a glue veneer in the color of the door leaf. The veneer is selected with a slightly larger width and, heating it with an iron, is glued. When it cools down, you need to cut off the remains with a knife.

6. Everything. We hang the door and go to drink beer.

I hope everything is clear ... Successful door building.

Departure of the master in Moscow - without holidays.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to trim an already installed door (installation of door extensions), this happens when the installation of interior doors has already been completed, and the owner needed to lay the laminate on the floor, but, unfortunately, the doors are not designed for this in height. In this case, it is slightly cheaper and easier to shorten the door than to replace it with a new one.

How to shorten the door?

The main task is to do everything correctly and correctly.

High-quality cutting of a door from below.

- Sometimes the question arises - how to shorten the door after an unforeseen laying of laminate or parquet.
- The network is full of descriptions of how dashing installers manage this operation using a miter circular saw.
- We recommend that you do not follow such advice in any case.
- If such an operation can be allowed for an MDF door, then the fine wood veneer will most likely be damaged.
- The difficulty lies in the fact that even the smallest saw teeth will tear out veneer particles, forming chips and creases, it is already impossible to fix such a marriage.

If you just need trimming the door from the bottom, in height, the price of veneer, MDF (by milling, with glass, planers), then you are in our company. Our experts will carry out this work efficiently and quickly, observing all the wishes of the owner. When installing interior doors, every apartment owner hopes that the new door will serve him for many years. To do this, everyone is trying to choose high-quality and reliable doors only from trusted manufacturers or order from real professionals and assumes that he will not need repairs for a long time.

Trimming is carried out along the bottom with a planer or milling cutter. We have the most affordable prices for trimming a veneered door with glass to the required height!

This is basically what happens, but sometimes there are cases when trimming the doors is necessary, this happens when the owner decides that laying parquet or laminate will be a great option. Laying any flooring is associated with a change in the level of the floor. And at this time, the most difficult moment comes, since few professionals know how to properly cut the door in order to avoid serious damage and not spoil the appearance of the door.

Trimming the door from the bottom, in height, mdf.

- If you had to cut the doors after installing the hinges, this means that you incorrectly determined the dimensions of the box relative to the canvas, or made a mistake with the hinges.
- In the latter case, it would be more correct to correct the error.
- Before installing the doors on the hinges, make sure that the dimensions of the canvas are shorter than the clearance of the box by about 10 millimeters, and narrower than it by 4-5 mm, and the lines of the canvas and the porches are parallel.
- At the same time, you can make sure that the vertical stand of the box from the side of the hinges is perfectly flat - this is very important.

In order to avoid this, it is recommended to contact only proven professionals who have extensive experience. You can find such specialists in our company by calling us or visiting our website and submitting an application. We provide a mandatory guarantee for all types of work. Our masters in the process of work use only professional tools.

Company advantages:

1. All necessary work is carried out at the same time and as quickly as possible.
2. Consistently high quality of services.
3. Guarantee for all types of work performed.

The master will help you saw off the door from below

The current service centers that repair interior doors, as well as their maintenance, offer a lot of different services, among which there is usually such a service as trimming the door in height, which causes sincere bewilderment among many ordinary people. And indeed, is trimming the doors necessary at all, if it is much easier to measure the doorway and, in accordance with these dimensions, purchase a finished structure in a store or place an order for its manufacture in some workshop. The answer is simple - the need to shorten the door from the bottom is often the only option to save the family budget, because such a procedure is much cheaper than buying a new door leaf. There may be several reasons for trimming, but the main one is related to the implementation of repair work, as a result of which the floor level rises. And this doesn't happen very often.

Every person who installs new doors in his house hopes for their longest possible service life. It is quite logical that for this purpose, high-quality and reliable door structures are purchased from reputable manufacturers or ordered from professional craftsmen. After all, such an approach gives confidence that the repair of such a purchase will be needed very soon. This is exactly what happens in the vast majority of cases. But people rarely consider the condition of their flooring when choosing doors. And then another repair happens, and the owner of the apartment decides on a new parquet or laminate, as a result of which the floor level rises. Indeed, in order to organize a system of underfloor heating, lay a parquet board or mount a laminate, it is necessary to lay a layer of sound insulation and protection from moisture. And if the base is not perfectly flat, then also level it with a layer of a new screed. As a result, a perfectly mounted door leaf begins to touch the flooring. Solving this problem is quite simple, you just need to file the door from the bottom, treating it with a special protective compound after that, and it will again open and close freely. At the same time, its functionality will not suffer at all.

It is necessary to shorten the interior door by 5.5 cm

You can go the other way - buy and re-install door structures, but this option is very expensive, so it is not in demand. The first option is much cheaper, although it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it on your own. After all, few people know firsthand how to cut an interior door in order to prevent possible damage and damage to its appearance.

This is where the services of professional craftsmen who install and repair doors come in handy. Skilled carpenters who have a solid experience in interior design commonly use the following tools to reduce the height of the canvas: circular saws and hand routers. The owner of a circular saw can shorten an interior door without dismantling it. Before carrying out such an operation, the carpenter carefully measures the expected size of the cut, based on these data, a circular saw blade is installed. The quality of the cut will depend on the evenness of the floor covering, as the tool passes over the floor surface. Next, the master performs a horizontal cut, cutting off the lower part of the blade across the entire width. Such an operation should be carried out before laying the parquet board / laminate, otherwise it is unlikely that it will be possible to shorten the door from below without removing it from the hinges.

It is much more convenient to use a manual milling cutter for this purpose, although such an operation is more time consuming. In this case, the door leaf is dismantled, after which it is mounted on a flat surface with clamps. The guide for the router is a wooden block, which is set by the master at the required level. In this case, the cutter must remove wood at a strictly established distance. As you can see, even the presence of such a tool does not guarantee high-quality work performed if a beginner is engaged in it. With a router, the process of trimming a door takes longer than with a circular saw, because the carpenter will have to make more than one pass before the tool removes the required part of the blade. However, this option is more reliable: the cut edges are perfectly even, as a result of which the appearance of the door does not deteriorate at all. In other cases, the need for such repair work may arise in connection with the unprofessional installation of door structures. Due to installation errors, the interior door has to be cut shortly after installation, and only the involvement of an experienced specialist will allow you to protect yourself from such problems.

Height trimming of interior doors © All rights reserved

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During repairs, sometimes there is a change in the level of the floor (laying tiles, pouring a screed or self-leveling coating, etc.). After that, you have to cut the interior door in height to ensure its free movement when opening and closing. The same operation must be carried out when replacing, if the new door is very large and does not fit the box. When installing a new frame, it may also turn out that the size of the opening does not correspond to the standard of the product.

Shortening the blade at home is easy with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. But to get a neat and straight cut, you will need auxiliary tools:

  • clamps that will help fix the canvas and guide bars;
  • ruler and square for marking;
  • a sharp knife for working with a veneered door;
  • edge tape for MDF cloth;
  • sandpaper.

To protect the decorative coating of the door from cracking along the saw cut edge, you can use masking tape. If necessary, you can do without it.


Instructions for independent work

Before carrying out work, remove the canvas from the hinges and prepare it by removing handles and other accessories from it. The door is cut on a workbench, but in case of its absence, a large stable table will do.


If the canvas from the array needs to be adjusted to the opening due to sagging or raising the floor, then it is best to trim the door from below. Take 2 height measurements: at the hinge part and in the vestibule. Transfer the measurements to the canvas, setting aside new measurements from the top edge. Draw a straight line through 2 points. To do this, it is advisable to use a long ruler and a square to control the right angles between the edges.

Attach the guide rail according to the markings. When using a power tool, it is better to use a metal strip or ruler. If you cut the door with a hand saw for wood, guides from even rails will do. Press the template to the canvas with clamps above the markup.


To keep a layer of varnish and veneer on a polished door, process it with a grinder. The blade of the tool will leave a clean cut that cannot be made with a saw. You need to lead the grinder along the guide bar. Before processing, stick adhesive tape along the marking line, and transfer the straight line to its surface.

If there is no grinder, the varnish coating on the removed part is removed with an emery cloth, and the veneer is cut with a sharp knife on both planes of the canvas and on its edge parts. After that, the door can be sawn off along the guide.


Remove the clamps, process the cut edges with sandpaper. On the veneered door, you need to glue the edge tape, choosing its shade to the veneer. If the massive canvas is painted, cover the cut with paint or varnish. Hang the door leaf on the frame, eliminate distortions and attach the removed fittings.

In the same sequence, work is performed when replacing the canvas: the standard dimensions of the new product can be changed in height and width. When performing work, you need to consider what the product is assembled from.

A canvas made of solid wood or MDF can be cut from the bottom if it does not have panels or their imitation. In the presence of a symmetrical decor, it is better to trim from two sides, dividing the size of the cut part by 2. These measurements are set aside from each edge, without violating the symmetry of the top and bottom panels. The same is done if you need to reduce the standard width of the door leaf.


Frame hollow doors must not be shortened too much. The product consists of wooden bars having a limited thickness. When performing work, you need to leave at least 1-1.5 cm of the frame bar inside the canvas. You can shorten the door as indicated for the design with panels - top and bottom.

When trying to install a standard door in a small opening, the molded materials of the frame are shortened to measure and fixed in the opening. The dimensions of the sash will have to be adjusted according to the technology described above.


The canvas from the array sometimes swells due to excess moisture and does not fit well into the frame. You can fix this problem with a planer or grinder (hand milling cutter). Remove the canvas, put it on a workbench and process its edge with a cutting tool, removing a few millimeters of chips from the desired side. Hang the door and test its course. If the problem persists, repeat the treatment.


To get a smooth cut of the array when using a circular saw, you need a blade with a large number of fine teeth. But even under this condition, it will not be possible to cut the veneered product with high quality. For an MDF canvas, it is better to prefer a jigsaw, and work in compliance with the rules that protect the veneer layer (sticking adhesive tape, cutting veneer).


If it is possible to use a manual milling cutter, then it is worth choosing only it for work. The tool will perform an even and clear cut, and the cutting line will not have to be processed additionally either on a massive product, or on MDF or a frame model.

For proper gluing of the edge tape, use PVA glue and an iron. The adhesive layer must be applied to the saw cut of the canvas, let it dry. Attach the tape to the edge of the door and iron it through the paper with a hot iron. After cooling, cut off the excess tape with a sharp knife, and lightly wipe the edges with sandpaper.

After laying the laminate, the floor has risen by 2 cm, and one of the doors must be filed from the bottom by 1-1.5 cm.

Interroom door, simple laminated covered with MDF. Inside the corrugation.

What could be used to saw the door, so that:
1) it was straight
2) there were no chips, the "brush" effect on the cut.

Cover the cut with masking tape.

Drink what? Drag to any format. (saw for cutting sheet materials) There are in all large construction shopping centers, in carpentry. Do not even try with a jigsaw and a hacksaw. In theory, you can make a cut-off circular saw "frog", but you need very straight arms.

Have a similar experience? I just don’t think that the shopping center will be happy if I bring them a door and say that it would be necessary to saw off 1-1.5 cm. I didn’t saw it in the shopping center, but I sawed off a lot of doors in a friendly production.

I sawed with an electric jigsaw, having previously wrapped it with masking tape. It turns out not very beautiful, but if you don’t crawl on the floor with a ruler, then it’s not noticeable. How much sawed off? what is inside at this height?

This is if you cut along the line, and if you lead the jigsaw along the guide, then the file will be exactly thin, it will lead you vertically. 16 mm sawed as hard as I tried, there is a straight line, but the vertical is walking. But the idea with a milling cutter vaupsche is an idea for all ideas.

No, it won't. On plywood "four" will be. On a 40 mm door leaf - no. With a circular saw - most likely it will work. Along the guide rail.

In Stroy Arsenal, they will most likely take it off, while the price tag will be ridiculous. I brought 32mm chipboard from them to saw. They took at the rate of 35 rubles. for the detail. They can take the same amount out the door.

Usually the canvas is not thicker than 40 mm. That's exactly what the man who put the other door said.

Yes, the canvas is 40 mm. Just sawing the door is a responsible matter :-D And they foamed the opening, closed it with platbands and no jambs are visible.

If a bar is 5 cm, and you need to saw off 2 cm, then there is no problem - a jigsaw and go ahead (adhesive tape from the "beard").
But if you are afraid that you need to saw off more than the width of the bar (you will touch the compartment with the corrugation), then it is better to take it to those who have special equipment!

Moreover, if you cut without a guide bar, the blade will walk less vertically. Because it is possible to slightly left-right click on the jigsaw and control the canvas (do not expand, namely, press horizontally)

With a bar, the canvas leads away much more specifically, up to breakage if you overdo it.

Here you have blown up the topic! Normally, these doors are sawn with a hacksaw. and.jigsaw!!! :-D

In such cases, it is most rational to use primed panel doors with fiberboard overlays. Such a door leaf can be bought for $15-20. After cutting and additional processing, the canvas is painted and in appearance almost does not differ from the standard canvas.

With overlays made of fiberboard, it allows you to quickly, simply and practically without prejudice to the appearance, cut the door leaf from above, below or from the side.

Work performance technology:

1. To reduce the width or height of the door leaf to 0.5 cm

can be used:

  • Jointing machine. Gives the best result, but not everyone has such a machine;
  • Electric jointer. Gives a good result, but also rarely found on the farm;
  • Electroplaner. It gives a good result, but you need to work carefully, because at the end, if the planer is not held, he often chooses an unnecessary recess;
  • Ordinary planer or jointer. If the height of the door decreases, then the standing bars must be shortened with a circular saw, hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

2. To reduce the width or height of the door leaf by 0.5-1 cm

can be used:

  • Circular machine. It gives the best result, but again, not everyone has such a machine;
  • Hand circular saw. Gives a good result, but also rarely found on the farm;
  • Electric jigsaw. Almost never the cut turns out to be even, and therefore the canvas needs to be planed additionally, so you need to saw with a small margin;
  • Hand saw (hacksaw). The cut turns out to be more or less even, but often not perpendicular to the planes of the canvas, and therefore the canvas needs to be planed additionally, so you need to saw with a small margin.

After cutting, the ends of the door are processed by grinding. It is advisable to chamfer from the fiberboard canvas in the places of cutting (slightly round the ends). This is best done by hand, with a sandpaper fixed on an iron or a plastic grater.

Note: when reducing the width of the door, it is desirable to cut the door from the side where the lock will crash, and not from the side where the canopies will be placed.

3a. To reduce the width or height of the door leaf by 1-3 cm

pre-disassembly of the door and glue to strengthen the door structure will be required. The success of disassembly depends on the quality of the adhesive. Try with a wide chisel to separate the canvas from the wooden block of the frame at the place of the future cutting of the fiberboard. If the canvas separates easily enough and does not collapse, carefully release the frame bar, pull out the metal staples holding the frame together and carefully cut the fiberboard sheets with a hacksaw. After that, you need to reduce the width of the upper and lower frame bar (if you reduce the width of the door), and remove the excess honeycomb (with a wallpaper knife or just by hand) to insert the frame bar. The bar can be screwed or shot with staples. After this, the canvases are glued to the bar, for this you can use PVA glue and ordinary masking tape if there is no press.

3b. To reduce the width or height of the door leaf by 1-3 cm

additional wood blocks and glue will be required to strengthen the door structure. If it was not possible to separate the fiberboard of the canvas, then you will have to cut along the frame (the tools are the same), then knock out what is left of the bar, remove excess honeycombs to insert a new frame bar. It is desirable to fasten the bar. After this, the canvases are glued to a new bar, for this you can use PVA glue and ordinary masking tape if there is no press.

Notes:

  1. You need to cut the door only in goggles and do not rush, since there is a high probability that the cutting part of the tool will hit the metal brackets that hold the frame together.
  2. If the door is paneled, then it is desirable to cut in width on both sides to maintain the symmetry of the pattern.

4. To reduce the height of the door leaf by 3-5 cm

you will need glue to reinforce the door structure. Cut off the excess part using any of the methods described in paragraph 2. Using a wide chisel, knock down the remnants of the fiberboard from the wooden bar, remove the excess honeycomb (with a wallpaper knife or just with your hands) to insert the frame bar. After this, the canvases are glued to the bar, for this you can use PVA glue and ordinary masking tape if there is no press.

After the glue has dried, the ends of the door, if necessary, are planed and processed by grinding. It is advisable to chamfer from the fiberboard canvas in the places of cutting (slightly round the ends). This is best done by hand, with a sandpaper fixed on an iron or a plastic grater.

5. To reduce the height of the door leaf by 5 cm or more

you will need glue to reinforce the door structure. Cut off the excess with a jigsaw or wood saw. This is done quickly, since it is necessary to saw mainly only fiberboard canvases. Using a wide chisel, knock down the remnants of the fiberboard from the wooden bar, remove the excess honeycomb (with a wallpaper knife or just with your hands) to insert the frame bar. After this, the canvases are glued to the bar, for this you can use PVA glue and ordinary masking tape if there is no press.

After the glue has dried, the ends of the door, if necessary, are planed and processed by grinding. It is advisable to chamfer from the fiberboard canvas in the places of cutting (slightly round the ends). This is best done by hand, with a sandpaper fixed on an iron or a plastic grater.

Note: If the door is paneled, then it is desirable to trim from above and below to maintain the symmetry of the pattern.

It takes 1-3 hours to cut the door in cases 1 and 2. It will take 2-4 hours to cut the door in cases 3-5, well, it is advisable to wait 1 day until the glue dries completely, although you can install the door with adhesive tape.

After laying the laminate, the floor has risen by 2 cm, and one of the doors must be filed from the bottom by 1-1.5 cm.

Interroom door, simple laminated covered with MDF. Inside the corrugation.

What could be used to saw the door, so that:
1) it was straight
2) there were no chips, the "brush" effect on the cut.

Cover the cut with masking tape.

Drink what? Drag to any format. (saw for cutting sheet materials) There are in all large construction shopping centers, in carpentry. Do not even try with a jigsaw and a hacksaw. In theory, you can make a cut-off circular saw "frog", but you need very straight arms.

Have a similar experience? I just don’t think that the shopping center will be happy if I bring them a door and say that it would be necessary to saw off 1-1.5 cm. I didn’t saw it in the shopping center, but I sawed off a lot of doors in a friendly production.

I sawed with an electric jigsaw, having previously wrapped it with masking tape. It turns out not very beautiful, but if you don’t crawl on the floor with a ruler, then it’s not noticeable. How much sawed off? what is inside at this height?

This is if you cut along the line, and if you lead the jigsaw along the guide, then the file will be exactly thin, it will lead you vertically. 16 mm sawed as hard as I tried, there is a straight line, but the vertical is walking. But the idea with a milling cutter vaupsche is an idea for all ideas.

No, it won't. On plywood "four" will be. On a 40 mm door leaf - no. With a circular saw - most likely it will work. Along the guide rail.

In Stroy Arsenal, they will most likely take it off, while the price tag will be ridiculous. I brought 32mm chipboard from them to saw. They took at the rate of 35 rubles. for the detail. They can take the same amount out the door.

Usually the canvas is not thicker than 40 mm. That's exactly what the man who put the other door said.

Yes, the canvas is 40 mm. Just sawing the door is a responsible matter :-D And they foamed the opening, closed it with platbands and no jambs are visible.

If a bar is 5 cm, and you need to saw off 2 cm, then there is no problem - a jigsaw and go ahead (adhesive tape from the "beard").
But if you are afraid that you need to saw off more than the width of the bar (you will touch the compartment with the corrugation), then it is better to take it to those who have special equipment!

Moreover, if you cut without a guide bar, the blade will walk less vertically. Because it is possible to slightly left-right click on the jigsaw and control the canvas (do not expand, namely, press horizontally)

With a bar, the canvas leads away much more specifically, up to breakage if you overdo it.

Here you have blown up the topic! Normally, these doors are sawn with a hacksaw. and.jigsaw!!! :-D

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