How to make paving slabs. Homemade paving slabs: do it yourself, the experience of the craftsmen of the portal

The technology for the production of paving slabs with their own hands has been mastered for a long time and every year everything is being improved. Finished products in terms of their characteristics and quality are in no way inferior to store-bought products, and sometimes even surpass them. So why overpay a considerable amount of money for a pig in a poke when you can make solid paving slabs at home. This does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and tools, of course, if you do not want to produce it on an industrial scale. The key to high-quality paving stones is the “correct” solution and skillful hands.

Paving slab production technology

Despite the simplicity of the production technology, there are some nuances that should be studied before proceeding with the manufacture of tiles on their own. First of all, you need to choose and master the method of its manufacture that suits you.

Vibrocast paving slabs

This technology for the production of tiles provides for a continuously operating vibrating table, on which the sand-cement mixture hardens, laid in special forms.

After full compaction and hardening of the mixture, the molds are transferred to a warm place where they must stand for at least 12 hours.

The finished product is even and smooth. Such tiles are easy to clean from snow and sand. It has a bright, saturated color, and the form of its manufacture is practically unlimited.

For paving paths, it can embody any design idea on your site. Qualitatively laid out tiles can give an accent to any of your buildings on the site, especially since this is an excellent solution to get away from annoying asphalt.

From an industrial point of view, the production of vibrocast paving slabs is a fairly cheap process, perfectly suited for private use.

Vibropressed paving slabs

The manufacturing technology of vibropressed paving slabs is as follows.

1. The concrete mixture is laid on a continuously vibrating frame in a special form (matrix).
2. Then, a special blank (punch) made in the form of a matrix under high pressure, like a piston, begins to put pressure on the mixture.
3. After complete compaction, the die and punch rise up, and the finished product remains on the bed. This method is fully automated and requires minimal human intervention.

The surface of the product is rough and porous. Such tiles are able to withstand heavy loads, are resistant to severe frosts, and are suitable for crowded places and vehicle traffic.

Despite the fact that there are compact installations that allow you to place such equipment on a home site, their cost is still high.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that for private needs, vibrocast paving slabs will be quite enough.

There is no need to be able to withstand heavy loads, since neither crowds of tourists nor vehicles will move along it. Therefore, in this article we will consider the manufacture of paving slabs using vibrocasting technology.

Paving slab manufacturing technologies

The expediency of buying equipment or renting it depends on the scale of the planned production.

If you need to cover small areas of your site with tiles, it makes sense to rent the necessary equipment, but if you have grandiose work on laying paved paths, blind areas, various sites, then it makes sense to think about purchasing it. In a word, it's up to each of you.

Necessary equipment for work

It is very difficult to manually bring the concrete mixture to the desired consistency. An alternative is a powerful drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution.

However, it is undesirable to work with such a tool for a long time, periodically you need to give it time to rest from the load. An ideal option would be a time-tested electric concrete mixer.

The main element of production without which you can not do. To date, you can buy a vibrating table in any store specializing in the sale of construction equipment.

Their initial price starts from $300. But do not rush, it is very simple from improvised materials. To do this, you will need (an electric motor, a sheet of metal, corners, metal plates and springs).

Local kulibins manage to use an ordinary washing machine for these purposes, setting it to high spin speeds.

Mix molds. You can also make the necessary forms using the material that almost everyone has on the site (plywood, metal plates, gypsum, and so on).

Options for making molds for paving slabs

You can purchase ready-made forms on any construction market, their price is not very high, so this will not significantly affect the budget.

DIY vibrating table

We will describe in stages the manufacture of a vibrating table for future forms. The main task is to get a flat surface of the upper platform. Required material and tools that you will need:

• vibration motor;
• Sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm. (upper platform);
• Metal corner or profile pipe (frame);
• Springs (damping);
• Welding machine, electrodes and grinder.

frame

We weld a regular frame of suitable sizes from metal corners or pipes. It is important to ensure that opposite pipes are the same size.

Using the same material, a rectangle is welded. On one side, a sheet of metal is welded onto it, on the other, a reinforced platform for a vibration motor with slots for fastening.

vibration motor

For vibrating tables, it is better to use a platform-type vibration motor. It is installed on a prepared base and firmly clamped with bolts.

Installation

The final step is to connect the platform with the frame, after inserting the springs into the landing bowls between them. The table is ready for use.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs

The composition of the mortar for the manufacture of paving slabs must contain the following components:

• Cement M-500;
• Seeded river sand;
• Crushed stone (fractions not more than 10 mm);
• fiberglass;
• plasticizer;
• Concrete dye (optional)
• Pure water without impurities.

It should be crumbly without the content of lumps and impurities. Remember that cement is a binder, so the strength of the tile will depend on its quality.

Sand like cement, it should not contain foreign impurities such as clay or algae. There is an easy way to test sand for clay content.

The sand must be tightly squeezed into a ball with the hands, fixed for a few seconds and unclenched, look after its condition. If the sand does not crumble, a clear sign of the presence of clay components in it.

Crushed stone is desirable to acquire a fraction 5-10 mm.

fiberglass performs the role of concrete reinforcement. The most common fiber material is polypropylene. It will not be difficult to purchase this component on the construction market.

The component that gives concrete strength and moisture resistance is - plasticizer. Pigment dye is used as needed.

Important! When mixing all of the above components, a strict dosage and sequence must be observed.

The ratio of components in solution

Components	Proportions in %	For 1 m² tiles	For 1 m³ tiles
Cement (M 500)	20%	28 kg.	490 kg.
Crushed stone (fractions 5-10 mm.)	22%	30 kg.	520 kg.
river sand	55%	73 kg.	1300 kg.
plasticizer	0.5% by weight of the solution	45 gr.	1.7 liters
Dye (pigment)	7% by weight of the solution	650 gr.	9 kg.
fiberglass	0.04 by weight of the solution	55 gr.	0.8 kg.
Water	6% by weight of the solution	8.5 liters	135 liters

How to mix the solution correctly

We mix the mortar for paving slabs in the following sequence:

1. In a drum with a small amount of water (1-1.5 buckets), add a plasticizer and dye;
2. We start the concrete mixer and stir the added components for one minute. From now on, the mixer should work continuously until the solution is completely mixed;
3. Then, observing the above proportions, cement is added in turn, and then sand and crushed stone.
4. Carefully monitor the consistency of the solution in the drum. The solution should turn out to be viscous, but in no case liquid.
5. The final step will be the addition of fiber to the finished solution. Stir for another 2-3 minutes. The solution is ready.

Casting and vibration processing

1. The solution is poured into pre-lubricated (soap or oil solution) molds placed on the platform of the vibrating table.
2. The vibration treatment process must be carefully controlled. As soon as foam forms on the surface, this is a signal that the degassing of the liquid is completed and the machine can be turned off.

This process usually takes 4-5 minutes. It is impossible to overexpose the solution on the bed, the process of its stratification will begin.

Some people wonder why the vibration treatment of the solution is needed, why it is simply impossible to pour the finished mixture into molds.

The answer to this question lies in the tiny air bubbles that are in the hardened concrete. In severe frosts, they contribute to the splitting of paving slabs.

Drying and stripping molds

In summer, drying of castings should last at least 24 hours, in cool weather at least 2 days. In order for the tile to come out of the mold more easily, it should be immersed in a container of hot water for 10-15 seconds. The molds are well washed with water and they are ready for work again.

Important! It is not recommended to put freshly cast tiles into work immediately. To gain strength, it must be kept outdoors under the sun for another week. Only after that the paving slabs are ready for use.

If you have decided to make paving slabs with your own hands, then we hope that this article will be a good help and help in your work.

Making at home is a great way to get high-quality and durable material for covering pedestrian areas, garden paths, alleys, areas near the house, driveways, saving significantly. Paving stones have long been replacing concrete and asphalt, offering more benefits and helping to create a beautiful and aesthetic pavement.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs, made according to technology and using high-quality materials, guarantee strength and reliability, allow the surface to breathe, are not afraid of weather conditions, and preserve the natural microflora. In addition, by creating tiles on your own, you can realize any design idea in terms of shape, color, configuration and other features.

The main stages of creating paving slabs:

• Preparation of high-quality and durable concrete mix.
• Thorough compaction of the solution (preferably on a vibrating table).
• Proper drying of formed products.

To obtain the highest quality result, before starting work, you need to carefully study all the features and nuances.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Do-it-yourself tiles at home, subject to all requirements and the use of high-quality materials in the indicated proportions, are in no way inferior in quality, and often surpass the factory-made material. Creating a tile at home reduces the cost of the product by an average of 20%.

The main advantages of hand-made tiles:

• Substantial savings
• Ability to produce products of any shape, color, configuration
• High quality - manufacturers often use lower quality materials in an attempt to reduce the cost of goods, do not follow the technological process
• Moisture permeability and vapor permeability of the coating
• Suitability of tiles for repair
• Possibility to make several more batches of coating if necessary
• No time and money spent on the delivery of the product from the factory or store

As for the shortcomings, everything is individual here: if the master ignores some processes and stages of production, makes tiles without a vibrating table or from low-grade materials, the products may be less durable and durable.

If, before making the material with your own hands, a vibrating table is created, all the nuances are taken into account, then these disadvantages can be avoided.

It is also often said that the production of tiles with their own hands involves a lower density of concrete, which entails a strong absorption of moisture, and reduces frost resistance in winter. The tile can be covered with cracks, deformed. But all this can be avoided by using special hydrophobic solutions for coating.

Consumables and Raw Materials

Do-it-yourself paving slab manufacturing technology involves the use of certain materials and raw materials, tools and fixtures. The main ones are molds for pouring mortar, a vibrating table and a concrete mixer. But in the production process, a lot more may be needed.

What is needed for the production of paving slabs at home:

• Concrete mixer - for high-quality mixing of a homogeneous solution. Kneading by hand will require effort and time, a trowel and a shovel or a puncher / drill with a special nozzle.
• Vibrating table - the mixture is compacted on it, during which excess air is expelled from the monolith, the material becomes more durable. The design of the table includes: a plate attached to a steel frame on springs and a vibration motor that sets the surface in motion.
• Forms into which the solution is poured - they can be bought ready-made or made independently. Forms can be made of polyurethane, plastic, silicone. Plastic ones are considered the most durable and reliable (up to 800 fillings), silicone ones quickly deform (up to 50 fillings can withstand), polyurethane ones demonstrate an average level of durability (about 100 fillings).
• Basin or bucket - for heating water when removing a frozen product from the mold.
• Capacities - for plasticizer and for mold lubrication.
• Additional consumables - dry rags, brush, personal protective equipment, trowel, building level.
• Everything you need to prepare the mortar: sand, cement, water, plasticizer, pigment, dispersant.
• Grease for molds - thanks to it, finished products can be easily obtained.

The technology for the production of paving slabs is quite simple, but a lot depends on the materials. The quality of cement affects the strength and durability of the product: it is best to choose the M500 brand (M400 is also suitable, but this cement is less durable, sets longer, and suggests a lower hardening index).

Before purchasing cement, it is advisable to check it for quality: squeeze the powder in the palm of your hand and look (if it has strayed into a lump, then the material is stale).

Sand is best to choose fractions of 0.6 millimeters, without impurities and debris. The ideal option is washed river sand (grayish). You can add sand screenings with particles of 3-12 millimeters to the mixture if you plan to make 10 centimeters thick tiles with your own hands. For tiles up to 15 centimeters thick, you can also take small crushed stone of a fraction of about 20 millimeters.

The plasticizer is introduced into the composition to give it strength and plasticity. The pigment is needed to color the product in the selected color. Usually, to reduce the cost of production, color is used to color only the surface layer of the tile.

The dispersant is a special substance that increases the frost resistance of the product. As a lubricant, craftsmen use special compounds or ordinary sunflower oil, or motor oil.

Quantity calculation

The production of paving slabs at home does not require special skills and knowledge, but requires careful adherence to all standards and proportions. To prepare high-quality concrete for paving slabs, it is necessary to mix cement, sand, plasticizer, crushed stone, pigment (if it is added at the mixing stage) and water.

Proportions (in volume) for the preparation of 1 square meter of standard tiles: 21% cement, 23% crushed stone, 56% sand, 0.7% plasticizer, 7% pigment, 7% water (of the total mass). If taken in weight, it turns out like this: 30 kilograms of cement, 32 kilograms of crushed stone, 75 kilograms of sand, 0.05 kilograms of plasticizer, 0.7 kilograms of color and 8 liters of water.

Step-by-step instruction

The manufacturing process of paving slabs is relatively simple. If you do everything correctly and consistently, then the material will turn out to be of the best quality and the entire production will not take too much effort and time.

The composition of the mixture for the solution

In order for the paving stones to be strong and beautiful, you need to properly prepare the solution.

to fill in the form:

• Dissolving the plasticizer in a small volume of warm water, stirring thoroughly to avoid lumps.
• Then, the pigment is diluted in hot water in a ratio of 1: 3 until completely dissolved, if it is added at the production stage (often the color is poured into molds or the finished tiles are painted after hardening).
• All components are gently mixed with sand, then crushed stone, cement are added and a little water is added.
• Only after thorough mixing, the entire volume of water is poured in and mixed until uniformity is achieved.
• The finished mixture should adhere tightly to the trowel, not spreading anywhere.

tinting

For painting tiles, mineral and organic pigments are used. Artificial colors give high resistance to various external influences and temperature changes, have a good coloring ability. They are usually brighter and juicier, but can be toxic. Natural dyes allow you to make tiles of muted shades at home, completely safe for human health and life.

2 methods of coloring paving slabs:

• Adding pigment to the solution at the stage of its mixing.
• Painting an already finished (frozen) product.

The first method is more expensive - the pigments that are introduced into the concrete at the mixing stage cost a lot. Usually these are dry dyes, which need to be added about 7% of the total mass of the solution.

This option makes it possible to obtain a fully painted tile evenly and beautifully, which, even in the event of chips, will not lose its appearance (after all, painting is carried out throughout the entire thickness of the monolith, and not just along the surface layer).

Painting an already finished product will take more time and effort, but it will be cheaper. Here, you first need to make paving slabs with your own hands, and then manually paint with a spray gun or other tools. The disadvantage of this is capable of coloring only the top layer and the risk of obtaining an uneven shade.

You can use another method - coloring the mold (filling it with pigment, and then the solution) or laying up to half the container and topping it up with the usual mixture. The latter option makes it possible to save on pigment and get a high-quality painted coating.

How to prepare a form

The form is prepared in order to make it easier to get the finished tiles and use it further for the maximum number of fills. Experts do not recommend using forms of any type without lubrication. Grease is applied to the inner walls of the container, carefully making sure that there are no stains. Excess grease can be removed with a dry cloth.

It is necessary to ensure that the lubricant is applied evenly - otherwise it will be difficult to get the finished tile and in the process it may crack and crack.

molding

When manufacturing is carried out, do-it-yourself paving slabs are quite simple. The solution is poured into the prepared forms. If you plan to create a two-color tile, first lay a layer of colored mixture (for the front surface), and then gray. Forms are installed on a vibrating table, where they stand for about 5 minutes, which is enough to remove excess air from the thickness and compact the mixture. Foam usually appears on the surface, which becomes evidence of the release of air bubbles.

Compaction of concrete - vibrating table options

Vibrocasting is a method of producing tiles, which allows you to get the most high-quality and dense material. It is possible to produce tiles without a vibrating table, but it may not be strong enough and reliable enough, it will quickly become covered with cracks and chips.

You can make a vibrating table yourself, since buying it for the production of small batches of tiles is impractical. The table involves a fairly simple design and procedure for its creation.

What you need to create a vibrating table:

• Sheet steel up to 10 mm thick for worktop
• A corner made of metal 5x5 centimeters - boards on tables will be made from it
• Pipes 4x2 centimeters, from which the upper crossbars will be made
• Pipes 4x4 centimeters 2 mm thick, which will act as support posts
• Channel with holes for fixing the motor
• Metal plates - soles of supports
• Spring to create vibration
• Electric motor up to 0.9 kW
• Washers and bolts for fixing the engine
• Switch, electric cable, socket

How to make a vibrating table with your own hands:

• Treatment of all metal parts with an anti-corrosion compound
• Welding of frame components
• Assembling the tabletop, welding the motor stand at the bottom
• Installing the motor so that it does not touch the ground
• Placing the table on a level base, anchoring or pouring concrete

Drying

After vibrating (or immediately after pouring, if tiles are being laid without a vibrating plate), the molds are stacked on racks or pallets to dry for 24-48 hours. To slow down the process of evaporation of moisture, you need to cover the forms with cellophane film. Next, the tile is carefully knocked out of the molds with something soft and not able to break it.

If the product is difficult to pull out, the mold can be lowered into hot water (heated to 60 degrees) to facilitate the removal. Next, the tile is dried to the full curing of concrete (28 days). Only after that it can be laid, using it to create paths for a summer residence or a private house, alleys, parking lots, etc.

Error warning

When we make paving slabs with our own hands, it is important to adhere to technology and eliminate common mistakes.

What mistakes can be avoided:

• Uneven distribution of the pigment - with insufficient stirring of the solution or overexposure on a vibrating table.
• Difficulty getting the tile out of the mold - if the container has not been properly lubricated.
• The appearance of holes or bubbles in the finished monolith - often such a nuisance happens in the absence or insufficient vibration.
• The tile crumbles - it means that the proportions in mixing concrete were not observed and the solution turned out to be of poor quality.

Work Safety Measures

Before you make paving slabs in the country with your own hands, you need to take care of personal protective equipment - at least you need work clothes (protecting exposed areas of the body), gloves, goggles, a protective mask or a respirator. The diluted plasticizer and pigment should not get into open areas of the skin, into the eyes. If this happens, you must immediately stop the process and rinse everything with clean water.

You need to be careful during the operation of the concrete mixer - before starting, they check the integrity of the socket and wires, when the equipment is turned on, you can not add components and touch the mixture, the container itself.

We check the quality of the tiles that you made yourself

Step-by-step instructions for making paving slabs usually include only items for directly creating the material. But do not forget about the need to check the quality of the products received.

What parameters should paving slabs correspond to:

• Durability - to last up to 30 years
• Strength - the ability to withstand a load of at least 200 kg / sq. cm
• Frost resistance - minimum 100 freeze/thaw cycles
• Homogeneous and smooth surface without cracks, chips, notches, bubbles, inclusions
• Ideal geometric shape - length and thickness, identical on all sides, no deflections, etc.

To check the quality of a tile at home, it must first be visually inspected for defects, geometric shape accuracy, etc. Then the tile is sawn with a grinder to study the internal structure of the concrete: even minimal voids should be absent in the section, the screening grains should be evenly distributed in the monolith: the filler is evenly filled with sand, and everything between the sand is filled with cement.

The manual for the manufacture of paving slabs includes several basic steps, which are easy to complete on your own. As a result, you can get a beautiful and high-quality tile that exactly matches all the parameters and design ideas.

Now almost every person has a personal plot, whether it is a dacha or a residential building, where there are recreation areas, paths, paths, parking lots for cars and all kinds of other places where a person’s foot steps directly. It is no secret that in modern society everyone wants to achieve the best, unique design on their site, both in the architecture of the house and in the landscape of the adjacent territory, and this can only be achieved with their own hands and imagination. Now it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, but not everyone can afford it.

Everyone dreams of a beautiful home garden design. You can achieve an unusual result by doing paving with your own hands.

From this article you will learn how to make paving slabs yourself.

Do-it-yourself tools for making paving slabs

The manufacturing technology is quite elementary, since you can even make paving slabs yourself at home. In order to make paving slabs yourself, you will need a simple tool:

• concrete mixer;
• vibrating table;
• picking shovel;
• metal bucket;
• pallets.

Forced concrete mixers are designed for loading from 40 to 300 kg of concrete mix. Vibrating tables can have almost any size of the working surface.

There is no need to be afraid of such things as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table. Now many people are building houses with their own hands, and perhaps they will give you a concrete mixer for rent, and you can make a vibrating table yourself at home. To do this, you will need a metal corner 50 * 50 - use welding to make a table frame. The vibration motor will be a starter from a car, with two massive washers wound onto the shaft. The holes on the washers must be offset. Vibration can be adjusted by moving the washers apart. To vibrate the table in a horizontal position, it is necessary to connect the vibration motor to the table legs in a vertical position, the table top can be made from chipboard, iron sheet or other available material.

If for some reason you didn’t manage to make a vibrating table yourself, or if it’s too difficult for you, there is the simplest option. After you have poured the solution into the mold, place it on a stool or other surface that will be flat. Then take a hammer or mallet and create vibration yourself by tapping on the surface of your stand until bubbles form on the workpieces. The appearance of bubbles will mean that there is no more air. So, now that you have all the tools, proceed directly to manufacturing.

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Material for the manufacture of paving slabs with your own hands:

• cement grade not lower than A-Sh-500;
• dyes;
• plasticizer (C-3);
• granite screenings;
• mold lubricant.

Which is made at enterprises, differs from the one that was made independently, in that it is made at the enterprise in accordance with GOST 17608-91. It must meet very stringent requirements, as it is used not only for the house, but also for the pavement, where there used to be paving stones. Therefore, the tile must have a very high frost resistance, at least 300 periods of freezing and thawing. Have a strength of at least 40 MPa, moisture absorption - no more than 5% and wear resistance - no more than 0.7 g / cm. In order to make paving slabs that will not be inferior to factory ones, it is necessary to take the selection and quality of the material with great responsibility.

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Forms for tiles: preparation

This house is called vibrocasting. Before starting work, it is necessary to select forms for pouring. The best option is plastic molds. You can also make your own form. Making forms with your own hands from various improvised materials, you yourself choose the geometrically most interesting shape for yourself. Before starting pouring with a special lubricant, it is necessary to lubricate the molds so that later the tiles are easier to get.

If you have not found a specialized lubricant, you can make it yourself at home, but be careful: clear proportions are needed here. To make the lubricant yourself, you need to take 50 g of machine oil and dilute it with water. This amount of oil is diluted in 1.5 liters of water. This mixture must be shaken with great effort for about 40 minutes. I would like to warn you with experiments in the proportions of lubrication. There is a chance that the lubricant will be too greasy and the entire batch of tiles will be rejected. After a very greasy lubricant, paving slabs turn out to look like shells, due to the fact that cavities form in it. If the lubricant, on the contrary, is not fat enough, it is much more difficult to pull the finished tiles out of the molds. Lubrication is also used to increase the life of the molds. If they are well lubricated, then you can use one tile about 600 times.

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Preparing concrete for making tiles with your own hands

We independently prepare the dye and plasticizer. The proportion of the plasticizer should be 0.5% of the amount of the entire solution in dry form. The plasticizer must not be added in dry form, it must be diluted in hot water in a proportion of 200 g/l. Do not dilute the plasticizer in cold water, as it will not dissolve. Stir the plasticizer until completely dissolved, even the slightest precipitate will give craters in the finished product. Next, you need to make a dye solution, its amount should be at least 5% of the total volume of the mixture in dry form. Otherwise, the finished tile will lose color very quickly. The brighter you want to make the product, the greater the percentage of dye you need.

The only drawback in the dye is its price, but we are also solving this issue. Pour half colored and half unpainted concrete into the mold - it will be even stronger. The dye must also be pre-diluted with warm water until completely dissolved in a ratio of 1: 3. When preparing a concrete mix, be careful with water: the consistency of the finished solution with a plasticizer and dye should resemble wet sand.

Add water and cement to the concrete mixer, mix until a homogeneous composition, then add granite screenings, mix well until a homogeneous mass. Add pre-diluted plasticizer and dye, stir until a bright, fully colored mass is obtained. Since it is quite simple to do, below is an approximate calculation to make a large volume of tiles. Based on these figures, you yourself will be able to calculate how much material you will need in order to make the necessary amount of paving slabs for your site yourself.

Consumption of components for manufacturing per 100 sq.m with a product thickness of 5.5 cm:

• cement - 3.6 tons;
• granite screenings - 4.5 tons;
• plasticizer C-3 - up to 0.7% by weight of the concrete mixture;
• dye - 5:10% by weight of the concrete mix.

Paths and platforms paved with paving slabs look aesthetically pleasing. Such a coating is durable, reliable, with a long service life, it is easy to care for it. But if you purchase material on the market, then the cost of finishing the tracks can be significant. Therefore, many owners are engaged in the production of paving slabs on their own, and they themselves lay it. Fortunately, there is everything on the market today for this. As part of today's review, we will try to sort through the entire technological process of making paving slabs with our own hands, and also consider how to lay it.

Two technologies are mainly used today:

• vibrocompression;
• vibrocasting.

How do they differ from each other.

vibrocompression technology

This is an industrial method for the production of paving slabs, which uses special equipment, consisting of a press and a vibrating table. the tiles are laid on the table, cement mortar with the addition of pigments is poured into it, after which the mixture is subjected to great pressure from the press. In the process of pressure, the table immediately vibrates, which evenly distributes the poured solution over the entire volume of the mold.

Tiled material turns out to be accurate in shape and size, its density is increased, which means that its strength will be great. This technology, depending on the type of equipment used, is practically devoid of manual labor, there are no problems with molding. More recently, they used the steaming of finished products to pull them out of the molds. This increased the cost of products. Today, all this is not used, so the price of paving slabs has dropped sharply.

But the topic of the article is how to make paving slabs with your own hands, so we will not talk more about this method of its production. The only thing to note is that products made using this technology are superior in quality to home-made ones. And, accordingly, they will have a longer service life.

Vibrocasting technology

This method of production can be classified as "do it yourself". True, for this you have to make a vibrating table. About it a little lower, and now we will consider the principle of production of paving slabs by this method. First, for the production of tiles, you need to purchase molds. What does the market offer today?

DIY molds for paving slabs

There is no need to talk about size and geometric shape. In this regard, the choice is huge, and each consumer will find for himself the option that will satisfy him in all respects. The choice is based on the material from which the molds are made. Today, manufacturers offer three varieties:

1. This is polyurethane molds for the manufacture of tiles or paving stones, which can be used up to 100 cycles. They are well suited for those who decide to perform a small amount of tiles.
2. Plastic. These molds can withstand up to 250 revolutions.
3. Made from special plastic type rubber, withstanding more than 500 cycles.

It is not a problem to buy molds for paving slabs today. The main thing is to make a choice. For small volumes, polyurethane is suitable. For example, if you buy five pieces, you can make 500 tiles, and this is a considerable amount. In addition, molds made from this polymer are very cheap, so they will not greatly affect the cost of the final product.

Production technology of paving slabs by vibrocasting

So, for this you need a vibrating table, on which the forms are installed. They are filled with a standard cement mortar, to which plasticizers and pigments are added. The main requirement for paving slabs is full-body color.

The vibrator turns on. Inside the mold, the solution is evenly distributed throughout the volume, while all the components mix even better, the air escapes, and it is precisely this that causes the deterioration of the quality of the product. Cement milk moves and concentrates at the mold walls. In the process of vibration, the tile is smooth and even in terms of geometry. The most difficult thing is to remove the finished product from the formwork. Therefore, this method is proposed - the tile, together with the form, is immersed in hot water (not lower than + 40 ° C), plastic or rubber becomes soft, which makes it possible to easily remove the finished paving material.

In the same way, double tiles can be made, in which the lower part is a regular gray cement mortar, the upper one is colored. To do this, the color mixture is first poured into the mold, and after 30 seconds, the gray mixture. After 30-40 seconds, you can turn on the vibrating table.

Attention! The paving slabs produced by vibrocasting must be in the form for two days. Only after that it is possible to produce demoulding.

How to make a vibrating table for paving slabs with your own hands: photos, videos and drawings

The drawing below shows what the vibrating table is assembled from. In fact, these are two separate structures that are interconnected by springs. The lower table has a standard form with four legs and a reinforced base, because it must withstand significant loads not only from vibration, but also from the molds placed on the upper table with cement mortar poured into them. The top table is a kind of trough with small sides.

Now, as for the drive, which should create vibration. There are a lot of different options here:

1. There are special vibrators that are attached to the top of the vibrating table (to the bottom surface). An eccentric is already inserted in their design, which creates vibrations. This is the most convenient option, but costly, because the vibrator is not cheap.

   

2. You can use an electric grinder, on the shaft of which two loads are offset relative to each other and the center of rotation of the load. It is the latter that create the displacement of the device itself, due to which the vibration of the entire structure occurs.

   

3. You can use any electric motor whose shaft is unbalanced. For example, as shown in the photo below, you can use several nuts welded to each other, mounted on the motor shaft. Instead of a pyramid, you can install any load, as long as it is located relative to the axis of rotation on one side.

   

4. You can make a separate eccentric in the form of a shaft mounted in two bearings. This design is attached to the top table. In this case, the shaft must be unbalanced. The rotation of the eccentric will be transmitted by an electric motor (you can choose any here), which is installed on the lower table structure (the place does not matter). Most often, a belt is taken as an element for transmitting rotation.

   

Be sure to watch the video, which tells how the vibrating table was made from a profiled pipe.

Advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies

The table shows that paving slabs produced by vibrocompression are better in all respects than self-made ones. Let's add here the exact geometric shapes, so it's easier to work with such a tile. Although she has one drawback - it is difficult to cut such a stone, it is too strong.

Step-by-step instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands at home

First of all, you need to choose a form for paving slabs, which, as already mentioned, has different sizes, traditionally - this is a size of 500 × 500 × 50 mm. Let's deal with this form. But first we will indicate from which solution the product will be poured.

Most often, the recipe consists of several standard components:

• cement M500;
• a mixture of crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 1, where crushed stone of a fraction of 5–10 mm is used;
• pigment;
• plasticizer.

As for the latter, the market today offers a huge range. These are both dry additives and liquid ones. The main thing is to accurately maintain the concentration of the plasticizer relative to. The dry additive is added to the solution in a ratio of 0.7% by weight of the cement.

To prepare the solution at home, you will need a conventional construction mixer. You can knead in a bucket, taking into account the volume of the required solution, so that it is enough for the manufacture of tiles located on the vibrating table. For example, if only four tiles fit on the table, then the minimum amount of batch should be enough to fill four forms.

A photo	Description of works
	Cement mortar is laid out in forms.
	The vibrator turns on. Under the action of vibration, the solution inside the mold begins to take on its dimensions.
	If necessary, the solution is added to the molds.
	As soon as the solution completely fills the internal space of the mold, the equipment can be turned off.
	The next step is drying. This process can be done naturally. It is impossible for the rays of the sun to fall on the tile, it is good if the room is ventilated. It is even better if the process is carried out on the street under a canopy. The main task is the horizontal arrangement of molds filled with cement mortar.
	The last stage is disassembly. The form with the tile is turned over and the edges of the form and corners begin to be bent, gradually removing it completely.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs

With the seeming simplicity of laying tiles, paving stones or with your own hands, this is actually a process that requires a special approach. Therefore, knowing the nuances will help to carry out the installation correctly.

A photo	Description of works
	Sod is removed, on which paving slabs will be laid.
	Curbs are exposed that will form the boundaries of the sidewalk or platform. They are installed on a sand-cement mixture. A prerequisite is the placement of each border horizontally, for which a long rule is used.
	Paving slabs are laid on sand, so it is necessary to fill the space between the curbs with this bulk material. The sand must be compacted well. Please note that the thickness of the applied layer must fill the space so that there is room for laying the tiles in height flush with the curbs.
	Now a mixture of sand and cement is being prepared in a ratio of 1: 5, which is poured over a sand cushion. Paving slabs will be laid on it. This layer must be leveled and compacted to prevent subsidence of the tiles.
	You can start styling. It is better to do this from the corner of the site.
	They laid the tile, knocked on it with a mallet to press down the flooring.
	A prerequisite is to check each laid element for horizontality. For this, the building level is used.

Thus, the entire platform or sidewalk is assembled, all the elements of the flooring must be checked by the level among themselves.

Attention! Even at the stage of backfilling the sand cushion, care must be taken to ensure that the finish is slightly sloping. This is done so that rain or melt water does not stagnate in the finished area.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video - how to properly lay paving slabs.

And two more points:

1. If possible, the laid material should be compacted using a vibrating table.
2. Between the elements it is necessary to sprinkle a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 1, which will fill the gaps between the tiles. This will give stability to the entire structure.

Alternative technology

Today it is possible to solve the problem of finishing sidewalks and platforms in a simpler way. To do this, you will have to purchase a special form, consisting of several cells that form paving slabs. In this case, we are not talking about vibrocasting, because the mortar is poured at the place where the tiles are installed. That is, right on the tracks or playgrounds. But this paving slab laying technology also belongs to the “do-it-yourself” category, because the elements themselves will be poured directly by the owner of the site.

Formwork, which is sold specifically for this technology, does not determine the size of paving slabs, because there is a huge assortment in terms of a variety of shapes. To understand what we are talking about, look at the photo. Although we must pay tribute that cells can also be geometric shapes: rectangles, ovals, circles, and others.

The technology itself in terms of preparation is carried out in exactly the same way as described above with the laying of the finished product. That is, a sand base is being prepared, curbs are being installed. After that, the form is laid in place, leveled, and cement mortar is poured into it. After two days, disbanding takes place. As you can see, it takes two days to dry, which means that in order to increase the speed of work, you will have to purchase several forms.

500 × 200 × 50 - curb.83
300x300x50 - Florida grey.56
500 × 500 × 50 - 12 bricks.140

We add that paving slabs from the manufacturer are not only a material made from cement mortar. These are ceramic tiles in the form of bricks, the manufacture of which is impossible with your own hands. The model of such an element called Lode Brunis brown color and dimensions 200 × 100 × 52 mm costs 45 rubles. The price of cement paving slabs with dimensions of 400 × 400 × 40 mm is 65 rubles.

How to check the finished tile for quality

It is almost impossible to visually determine whether a tile is of high quality or not. But there are some tricks that will help you choose more or less high-quality material:

1. Tap on it. If the sound is sonorous, then the density of the tile is high. Accordingly, the strength is at the proper level, the product is well dried.
2. A bright color is a sign of a large amount of pigments added. And they lower the quality characteristics of the material.
3. If on the cut the color is located only in the upper part of the product, then it is likely that the color will fade or fade over time. The pigment should be evenly distributed over the entire body of the tile.
4. The absence of bubbles and cracks is also a sign of quality.
5. The presence of a certificate indicates that production has been established according to standards or specifications that are registered with state bodies.

So, we have analyzed the topic of production and laying of paving slabs. If you have any questions, we are ready to answer them. Contact us in the comments.

Not only look attractive, but also increase the comfort of movement. There are several ways to lay paving slabs with your own hands. We will describe each of them in detail. Moreover, it is not necessary to buy tiles in the store - you can also make it yourself.

Types of materials for covering paths and sidewalks

This type of coating first appeared in the 19th century in Holland. It began to be used due to the lack of natural stone. It turned out that it looks no less decorative, and in terms of strength it is not so inferior to it. Subsequently, concrete, and then tiles made of other materials, appeared in other countries.

Today it has many varieties and is made from:

• concrete: mixtures of cement, filler (most often sand) and water; able to withstand heavy loads, but less decorative than other types
• baked clay clinker: more expensive material with a minimum number of pores, obtained by thermal firing; unlike concrete, it is almost not susceptible to moisture and temperature changes and has great strength; does not wear out and does not lose color
• crumb rubber, obtained in the process of tire recycling: anti-slip bright attractive products are more often used in playgrounds, spaces around swimming pools, sports centers
• pavers: small-sized products made of processed natural stone - granite, marble, basalt, labradorite; have the highest strength
• wooden bars and saw cuts, coated with an anti-slip layer and impregnated with antifungal compounds, for example, heated drying oil
• polymer (plastic): inexpensive material that quickly fades in the sun and has increased abrasion; for protection against slipping are made corrugated

In addition to rectangular and square, paving tiles can have a different, more complex shape, for example, in the form of a wide wave, scales, hexagons, polygons, and even clover leaves. In one set, there may be products of several configurations at once, from which a drawing is laid out in the future.

The greatest demand is for tiles measuring 200-400 mm by 140-250 mm. Standard thickness 30-80 mm. The thinnest is used only for laying on paths with low traffic, including in private households. Products of medium thickness are trimmed with city squares and sidewalks. The thickest tiles are used in parking lots and roads.

Methods for making concrete tiles

There are only three main methods of its manufacture:

1 Vibrocompression: tiles are made in steel molds from a mixture of dry materials with the addition of a small amount of water; a punch (similar to a piston in a cylinder) additionally presses on the vibrating matrix, compacting the solution; the products are very durable, but, since the rigid solution is not able to fill all the bends of the shape, it is produced only in the form of rectangles or squares.

2 Hyperpressing: in production only pressure is used without vibration on single or double-sided presses; the strength of tiles made by this method is higher than that obtained by vibrocompression; its edges are pressed so that the edges seem to be razor-sharp.

3 vibrocasting: liquid concrete mixture is poured into a mold and placed on a vibrating table; after compaction, cement milk appears on the surface - a suspension of cement and water; then the products harden and gain strength during the day (this is how paving slabs are made).

When calculating the required amount, learn that there will be a lot of trimming on winding paths and intersections, which means that more tiles will go away. Trimming in each row is also required when laying diagonally.

Types of laying

Paving slabs are laid in two ways:

• dry on a sand bed
• wet on cement mortar

Laying on cement is not a cheap pleasure. But the surface turns out to be high-strength, even a truck can easily drive through it. In private households, it is sufficient to use the dry method. We will describe the process of laying dry and on cement mortar in detail in the following sections of the article.

Is it necessary to use a drainage system?

If water stagnates on the paths, people walking along them will not have fun - the likelihood of injury will be very high. Plus, when making a blind area from paving slabs, water from surfaces adjacent to buildings will drain under the foundation. Therefore, the paths are always made with a slope of 1-2 °. Moreover, it must be done in the direction of the places of water drainage - drainage.

Drainage pipes are mounted every 2-3 m across the track. Water should move along them by gravity, so laying should be done at a slope of 2-3 degrees. You can also use special drains. In fact, this is a special type of tile in the form of gutters.

If the site is dry, a complex system of drains is not needed - it is enough to dig small trenches to drain water and fill them with gravel or gravel, and mask them with soil on top. On swampy soils, complex drainage systems will need to be installed. Particular attention should be paid to the drainage of rainwater when laying tiles near the blind area of ​​buildings.

How to make a mold?

For forms (formwork) of paving slabs, wood is most often used. Metal products are more durable - it is much easier to remove tiles from them and clean the mold from the frozen solution. The use of gypsum is also allowed - however, this inexpensive material is fragile, and such formwork will not last long.

Products of complex shapes are easier to purchase in the store. Plastic or rubber products are easy to use, but it is difficult to make them at home. It is better to buy polyurethane formwork - silicone is fragile and will not last long.

Wooden molds are collapsible. It is more convenient to use a form measuring 50x50 cm, into which 4 tiles can be poured at once. Its standard height is 6-7 cm.

All formwork elements must be tightly joined to each other. Otherwise, when liquid flows out of the solution, the strength of the tiles will decrease. The location of the parts is verified by the building level. You can strengthen the formwork with metal corners.

Handles can be welded to metal molds on the sides. It will be easier to transfer already finished products into them. For the production of small quantities of tiles, molds can be made from tin. To do this, it is cut to size, adding a small allowance to it, and wrapping it with a wooden formwork. Tin sheets are adjusted with a hammer. Irregularities and bulges should not be paid attention to. They will only give the tile an original pattern and make it less slippery. It is worth aligning the form only on the sides - otherwise it will be difficult to dock the tiles to each other.

Gypsum products are poured into a pre-prepared wooden frame, which is lubricated with oil. Filling is made in several layers. To strengthen the structure, it is additionally reinforced with wire. A day after complete drying, the formwork is lowered into the water, and then the finished products are disassembled and pulled out.

For the manufacture of a small number of paving slabs, you can use improvised means. You can replace the molds with fragments of plastic bottles, pieces of pipes, food storage containers, glass containers, flower pot stands, cardboard packaging, etc.

An interesting tile is obtained by using silicone molds with convex patterns. intended for baking confectionery products.

So that the products do not have to be cut in the future, you can make angular shapes. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the work.

Homemade vibration actuator

As a basis, you can take a conventional engine, for example, from a washing machine. But it will need to be upgraded by adding an eccentric assembly with an asymmetrically located axis. You can use any other engine with a power of 0.5-0.9 kW, for example, from a pumping station.

To create an unbalance of the engine and the appearance of vibration, you only need to shift the axis of rotation. To do this, 2 metal pancakes with an offset axis are attached to the shaft key.

The range of motion will need to be adjusted. To do this, one of the pancakes is prepared in one, and in the second - 3-4 holes (see photo), through which they are interconnected using a metal strip 2x6 cm and bolts.

First, a distance of 38.5 mm is made between the holes of the pancakes. To measure the oscillation amplitude, a pencil is attached to the platform with adhesive tape, drawing a curve. If the amplitude is insufficient, the distance between pancakes is increased. Please note that the vibration must be uniform, otherwise the cement mixture will be compressed in jerks and delaminate.

Making a vibrating table

Homemade vibrating table

If you take a cement mortar and simply pour it into a mold and then dry it, you will get not very high-quality products. In the manufacture of paving slabs without a vibrating table, due to the high porosity of the product, under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, they will crack much faster.

You can remove the air gaps between the layers of cement and compact the solution using special vibrating equipment - a vibrating table. It can be of two types:

• molding: for sealing grout in tiles
• disbanding: used to extract (knock out) products from molds

Outwardly, they are indistinguishable. The difference lies only in the presence of nozzles with holes on the molding products, on which the mold is attached. The vibration direction of the forming vibrating table must only be horizontal.

The vibrating table should consist of the following parts:

• steel sliding table
• control panels
• engine with unbalance (asymmetrically located axle); we talked about the method of its manufacture a little higher

So, the process of manufacturing a vibrating table for pressing paving slabs, in stages:

1. Its standard dimensions are 1x2 m. You can make it a little smaller than 0.8x1.6 m. Too large dimensions are undesirable - due to overload, the engine can quickly fail.
2. The height is selected individually depending on the height of the person. On average, together with a spring-loaded platform, it is 0.9 m.
3. The frame of the table is welded from metal corners or a round pipe. It is much easier to install springs on pipes.
4. For the manufacture of spring seats, pipe sections are welded to the side posts of the frame. Their dimensions should be such that the springs can enter them in 2-4 turns. Springs can be simply welded to the metal corners.
5. Sometimes the springs are replaced with belt loops with which the top plate is attached. Such loops are hung on rails welded to the corners of the structure. However, this design is less reliable.
6. To strengthen the supports, you can weld the crossbars - stiffeners.
7. The platform cover is removable.
8. The vibration platform is mounted on the frame with the help of springs.
9. The vibrator (motor) is attached with clamps to the bottom of the plate or installed first on a metal platform, and then mounted on countersunk screws.
10. Protect the structure by grounding the vibrating table. It is also desirable to install an RCD switch in front of the power cord.
11. To ensure vibration, the motor is connected to a shaft attached to the bottom of the table by means of an eccentric bearing.
12. To mount the socket and switch, it is necessary to weld a metal plate to one of the side parts of the frame.
13. After finishing work on the manufacture of tiles, the vibrating platform can be used as a table top of a circular machine.

The table cover is better to make removable. In this case, it can be used as a stretcher for moving finished products.

If you decide not to bother with making a vibrating table, you can simply buy it. The cost of such equipment varies from 12 to 55 thousand rubles.

A concrete mixer is needed if you need to make a large number of tiles

To make tiles you will need:

• mold for casting: you can make them yourself from wood, metal, plaster
• vibrating table that provides thorough compaction and gradual compaction of concrete, due to which it becomes more dense and uniform
• for a large number of products, it is better to purchase or rent a concrete mixer: the solution in it will be mixed more evenly, and the products will turn out to be of better quality; if you need a little tiles, you can prepare the solution in an ordinary old bathroom or any other large container
• pallets for storing and drying products: stacking them directly on bare ground is not recommended

Cement is better to take M500. The M400 brand, which is recommended by some experts, is still not worth using. After all, if you adhere to the standards adopted once in the USSR, today most of the “commercial” M400 cement corresponds in quality to the M300 brand.

Sand must be taken dry and carefully sifted. It should not contain impurities of clay, grass, leaves and stones. Otherwise, it will affect the quality of the tiles.

Use only clean water. Stagnant, foul-smelling liquid from irrigation barrels with an admixture of garbage will not work.

Production of paving slabs in stages

So, a step-by-step instruction for the manufacture of paving slabs:

1. When using cement M500, it is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. This must be done dry. Thus, the mixture will mix more evenly. Water is added later.
2. Purchase cement only from trusted manufacturers. If the products begin to crumble, most likely this is not a violation of technology, but bad cement. If you doubt its quality, purchase a small amount first and make a few test pieces out of it.
3. Notice the color of the cement. It should not be too dark and have a marsh hue. Standard cement has only a gray tint. It also should not be lumpy. This means that the storage was carried out at high humidity or its shelf life has already expired.
4. To increase the strength of the products, add a plasticizer and a waterproofing additive to the solution. Additionally, you can strengthen the tile with a small amount of fiberglass.
5. Sometimes crushed stone of small fractions is added to the solution (the proportions in this case will be 1: 3: 1). But most experts agree that this reduces the strength of products.
6. Make the consistency of the solution pasty - it should not be too liquid and not slide off the trowel. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount of water - after all, the humidity of sand and cement is different. Therefore, the consistency will have to be selected empirically.
7. Before pouring the solution into the mold, it must be lubricated. For these purposes, you can use any vegetable oil or soap solutions. There are also special lubricants that can be purchased at hardware stores. Working off is used with caution - it leaves dark spots on the surface of the track.
8. After filling the mold with a solution, it is necessary to pierce it so that there are no voids left in it. To get rid of them, the form can also be slightly shaken by hand. There is no point in smoothing the top perfectly - this side will adjoin the ground. If there is unevenness, the tile will only better adhere to the surface when laying.
9. In the manufacture of large products (including borders), it is desirable to strengthen them with reinforcement - small pieces of metal or a metal mesh. For small items, you can use pieces of wire. In this case, they will turn out stronger and last longer.
10. The duration of continuous vibration depends on the mass and dimensions of the products. On average, it is 1.5-2 minutes.
11. In order for the products to turn out to be equal in thickness (and this is the main trouble for molders, when the tiles are thinner at one end than at the other), be sure to unfold the mold during vibration.
12. The tile is removed from the molds only after the solution has solidified in a day.
13. Finished forms are stacked. Each row should contain no more than 15 pieces. Before storage, each product is wrapped in plastic wrap. The tile wrapped in this way will “steam” and gain strength. You can fold it onto sheets of stainless steel - it will be easier to remove products that are still half-damp.
14. Dry the tiles under a canopy so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.
15. It will be possible to work with it and lay it only after a month, when the concrete will fully gain strength.
16. Borders are made in a similar way. Making molds of suitable sizes for them will not be difficult.

If the tile lags behind the mold badly, immerse it for a while in a container of hot water.