How to make a wicker fence from branches. Do-it-yourself wicker fence: a guide for a home master

At a country cottage, I want to do something with my own hands, so that it turns out beautifully and unusually. And where does the cottage begin? From the fence. And the most colorful wooden fence is wattle. If you wish, you can master the technology of erecting this picturesque hedge.

Wattle and its features

It is almost impossible to see the wattle fence in modern everyday life, but since in films and theatrical productions about past rural life it is an indispensable attribute of the scenery, everyone has an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthis type of fence.

Its appearance is characteristic: stakes are dug into the ground with a certain step, braided with flexible shoots. This design corresponds to the definition of "cheap and cheerful": it does not need a foundation, and building material in the countryside is easy to get for free. And with the construction of any person will cope alone. Therefore, in the old days, the wattle fence was a popular version of the fence.

The main value of the wattle fence lies in its artistry - for the layman it is associated with antiquity and national traditions. The impression will be especially strong if a sunflower grows near the wicker fence, the canvas is decorated with stems of climbing plants, and an inverted clay pot hangs on one of the stakes.

Wattle can be decorated with clay pots, ornamental plants and flowers

But it is difficult to call such a fence solid, so it will not be appropriate everywhere. It is possible to protect a suburban area with a private house with wattle if it is stylized antique. In most cases, such a fence is used for zoning the courtyard, fencing raspberries or for decorating a flower bed.

Photo gallery: where to use wattle

The fence encloses high berry plantings and acts as a support for the branches along the perimeter A small wicker fence serves as a dividing strip for flower beds The wattle fence, exposed between the sections in the form of a barrier, is made high

The contour of a wicker fence does not have to be straight, so it is suitable for round flower beds and areas.

Preparing for production

First, we think over: from what material we will build the wattle fence based on personal preferences and advice from wicker craftsmen.

wattle material

For work you will need:

• wooden rods (willow, vine, hazel, birch, etc.);
• wooden stakes or thick branches of any trees;
• racks, metal pipes;
• poles and wire.

Any flexible and fairly strong stems are suitable for it: vine, young shoots of hazel, birch branches; but traditionally such a fence is woven from willow twigs. They combine strength, flexibility and affordability: willow grows in abundance everywhere.

And also a living wattle fence is constructed from it: shoots are planted in the ground and, as they grow, they are laid in a canvas.

Cattail and reeds, despite their flexibility, strength and ubiquity, should not be considered a good material for wattle: after drying, the shoots become very brittle, so the hedge will turn out to be very short-lived.

Weaving blanks differ in color, thickness and structure of each type of wood

Take a measuring tape or a stick with you to measure the rods of the desired length. And it is equal to at least two steps between the supports, that is, each rod must be tied around at least three racks.

Rods choose plastic and even, from 1 to 3 cm in diameter. Instances with ramifications or painful outgrowths are rejected.

It is more convenient to work with a freshly cut vine. But if the time after cutting is missed, the branches have dried up - immerse them in water or hold them over steam. The quality of plant material will be restored. If it is required to prepare rods in advance for a long period, then the cut vine is freed from leaves, tied into bundles and folded under a canopy for drying. Build a temporary shelving to save space. Being well dried, the material is stored for a long time.

As stakes, pick up thick branches (with a diameter of four centimeters or more). They are buried in the ground, therefore, in length they should exceed the height of the future fence by at least 0.5 m. With a fence height of more than one meter, it is advisable to dig in stakes a third of their length.

For this purpose, decay-resistant pine, peeled from bark (contains a large amount of resin) or a metal pipe is well suited - the racks will still be hidden by the canvas.

Calculate the number of supports based on the duration of the fence and the step between them. Racks are installed half a meter apart, but the thinner and lighter the vine used, the smaller the distance between the stakes. You can also do this: dig in the stakes after 1 m, and between them install one or two intermediate supports made of a thick willow rod, dug to a depth of 30 cm.

In addition to the above, long poles and wire are useful.

Tool

You will need the following tools:

• garden drill (there are models with a motor);
• pruner, knife, awl;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• mallet hammer;

Prepare everything before starting work, so that later you will not be distracted from the creative part of the work.

Types of weaving fences

A fence of branches is woven in different ways. The appearance of the fence directly depends on the functions that are assigned to it, and on the selected material.

In the direction of thin branches in the fence, weaving is divided into two types:

Vertical weaving fence - video

And there are many ways to weave: use ready-made options or come up with your own. Let's look at three main ones:

• weaving with braids - figured framing of pegs with one or two rods at once according to the principle of braiding pigtails. The method is difficult for a beginner, since you have to hold several rods in one hand, pass them between the pegs and at the same time not stray from the pattern. Such a wattle fence is placed in front of the beds so that no shadow is created, or is used as a dividing strip;

  A fence in the form of braided pigtails is placed with the expectation that sunlight passes through it well.

• weaving in one layer - they begin to build their first fences from it, as this is the easiest way. The vine is circled around the pegs, like a wave - first on one side, then on the other. At the edges it is fixed with a metal bracket or screwed with wire. The fence is obtained with small gaps, so it can be used anywhere;

  Weaving in one layer is the simplest type of weaving a fence, but if you add curly elements to it, it will decorate both a low flower bed with greenery and a flower garden

• stranded weaving is the most labor-intensive and complex method. The rods need to be very long, thin and pliable, otherwise they will break. Such a wattle is dense and massive. It is placed on strong poles or framed in wooden frames.
  

  Stranded weaving is used for fences that enclose other people's areas, or for a place of rest where they hide from the sun.

In addition to these methods, there are additional weaving options, but they are all based on the principle of braiding vertical or horizontal sticks, poles, metal pipes or thick rods in different directions.

In addition to these methods, there are many others - choose the one that you consider suitable for your situation.

Wattle fence installation methods

The wattle is convenient in that it is installed in different ways, depending on the operating conditions. The external fence is mounted on metal poles and framed in a rigid frame. It turns into a real solid fence.

Wicker rectangular blanks are made separately and framed in a rigid frame and mounted on steel poles, used as a fence

A fence for space zoning is woven into the gaps between the trees or pillars of the summer veranda.

The fence visually divides the space into certain zones and is attached between trees and other parts of the site.

If you are going to protect a place to relax and shade it from direct sunlight, then the fence is woven into a finished metal structure installed in this place.

A braid woven into a metal structure will protect your resting place from the sun and hide you from the eyes of your neighbors.

Wattle making: step by step instructions

First, the area is cleared of debris. Then markup is done:

1. In the corners of the fenced area, steel pins or pegs carved from wood are driven in.
2. A nylon cord, fishing line or twine is pulled between the corner pegs.
3. Along the thread indicate the position of the intermediate racks (in increments of up to half a meter).

Installation is carried out sequentially:

1. Holes are drilled in the ground at least half a meter deep so that the fence holds securely and does not fall down after weaving is completed.
2. Install racks. They are cleaned of bark, impregnated with an antiseptic, and the buried part must also be coated with bituminous mastic, tar or wrapped with roofing material (fixed with wire or sewn with a construction stapler).
3. The first to lower the recesses are the corner supports, but do not fill them up, but only fix them with wooden wedges or brick fragments. A cord is pulled along their tops and the horizontal tension is visually checked; if necessary, the depth of immersion of the racks is adjusted, and the holes are covered with soil and sand, and rammed. Metal racks can be concreted.
4. Pull the cord again and, using it as a guide, set the intermediate stakes. If they are wooden, then in order to avoid deflection during the braiding process, their tops are fastened with the help of even poles.
5. If the vine is dried, it is softened by steaming, which gives the fastest effect, or by immersion in hot water (the process will take several hours), or by immersing only the ends in water (flexibility will be restored after 1 - 2 weeks).
6. With the help of a two-pronged fork, the teeth of which converge in a wedge and have sharp inner edges, they clean the rods from the bark. If the bark is difficult to remove, then the rods are not completely wet.
   

   you can make an emulsion yourself by simply splitting the branch and rewinding it tightly in the place of the split so that it does not deepen

7. Weave the bottom row (15 cm from the ground), using a thicker vine. The individual rods that make up the row must be stacked with an overlap in one rack. That is, if the first rod goes around the first 4 racks, then start laying the second one from rack No. 3. At the overlap section, the rods are tied with wire or tape.

   Wattle device diagram: other schemes can be used

8. It is desirable to strengthen the bottom row - the vine is intertwined with wire and screwed to the supports with self-tapping screws. If the rods are thin, then metal staples are used to secure the row.
   

   Horizontal weaving of the fence starts from the bottom - you can weave from single rods or circle the stakes immediately with a bunch

9. Where the first row bypassed the front of the rack, the second should be located behind it, and vice versa. This alternation is also observed when weaving subsequent rows. When there are 3 or 4 of them, you need to tap on the braid with a mallet and compact the rows. To strengthen the web, wire weaving is used - every 7–8 rows with fixation on supports.
10. The ends of each row are cut and drilled to the extreme supports with screws.

    The ends of each rod should be securely fastened to the stand by drilling or wrapping them with wire.

In a living braided fence, the vine is launched vertically. For this:

1. Rods are tied horizontally to the racks - 25 cm apart.
2. The top bar is brought to the tops of the hedge so that they do not stick out in different directions.
3. A living vine is woven vertically between horizontal rods in the same way as between vertical pegs in a horizontal weave. At the same time, the lower end of each rod sticks into the ground so that the plant takes root. The top edge of the canvas is trimmed.

Over time, the living wattle fence will harden. It is better to trim the tops of the growing wattle fence in early spring or late autumn.

The willow vine has taken root and the fence has turned green

The hedge gives shade, coolness and rustles the leaves.

How to make wattle durable

When exposed to air, dead wood either shrinks or rots. Therefore, the finished fence is covered with a special varnish (furniture or yacht).

To change the original color of the fence, it is stained with potassium permanganate, bleached with hydrogen peroxide, or painted, renewing the color every year.

If painting the fence is not included in your plans, it should be treated with a good antiseptic. The lower part, which is most exposed to moisture, can be further treated with vitriol or heated bitumen.

And you can also make Swedish paint. To do this, you will need (based on 10 liters of the finished product):

• table salt 250 g;
• rye flour 800 g;
• iron vitriol 400 g;
• drying oil or linseed oil 300 g;
• iron minium 300–600 g;
• water - about 6 liters.

Paint Recipe:

1. Bring 2 liters of water to a boil and dissolve salt and iron sulfate in it.
2. In a separate container, rye flour is mixed with water to the consistency of gruel and this mixture is poured into brine.
3. Cook for 30 minutes with constant stirring.
4. The drying oil is added little by little, after which the broth must be mixed with vigorous movements (an emulsion should form).
5. Add red lead dissolved in hot water.
6. The resulting concentrate is again well mixed and diluted with water to a volume of 10 liters.

The mixture tinted with minium will have a golden color. Instead, you can use other alkali-resistant pigments with iron content (umber, ocher, iron oxide mummy). The paint will turn red or brown.

The composition is applied so that for every 1 m 2 it is spent about 300 ml. The paint is rubbed until the pores are filled. The best weather for painting work is windless and cloudy, then the paint dries for a long time and sets to the surface better.

If the surface to be painted is particularly rough, add more flour to the paint. It acts as a leveling compound and, thanks to it, the paint adheres better to such surfaces.

Swedish paint is not suitable for planed to a smooth state of wood.

Old wattle in a new way

The forgotten wattle fence finds today a second life in the form of blanks from plastic products. This is the so-called polymer vine - a tube made of high-strength polyethylene with a diameter of 18 mm, the outer surface of which imitates a natural vine.

Artificial vine is a tube of soft plastic, but looks like natural wood

Polymer rods are flexible, have high strength, do not rot and are absolutely indifferent to such weather factors as temperature changes, precipitation or drought. The service life according to the assurances of the manufacturers is 20 years.

The color of the product can be white, ash, brown or gray. By special order, they also supply a green vine, but it costs 10% more. Whip length - 3, 4 and 6 m.

We also offer ready-made sections of the braided fence, the frame of which is made of metal profiles with powder coating. They are of different heights, and the width is 1.5 m. There are options with continuous weaving, that is, without gaps, in which each row is formed by two vines. You can order a set with a gate and a gate.

The appearance of a wattle fence made of artificial material cannot be distinguished from a wooden one.

The “branded” wattle fence looks presentable, because it is perfectly even and neat, so they can protect a site with an expensive cottage. At the same time, we can talk about the vandal resistance of the fence: the fabric is woven in such a way that it is impossible to simply pull out the rod - for this you will have to disassemble the entire section.

The fence is mounted on a strip foundation with a depth of 200 mm. Racks are equipped with wide soles, screwed to the foundation, without deepening.

You can purchase a set separately and weave your own not a straight wattle, but a round one. Flower beds are also arranged in "baskets" woven from a polymer vine.

Video: weaving a fence in a simple way in one layer

It is not for nothing that wattle remained popular among the people for a long time. Simple manufacturing technology, affordable materials and improvised means, and with all this - an interesting appearance that gives the site an unusual flavor.

Unthinkable without wooden fences, the most colorful of which is wicker fence made of branches. Like any other, a decorative wicker fence consists of the main elements:

Independently and without extra costs, you can build do-it-yourself wicker fence for every taste, guided by detailed instructions.

Vine Harvesting

For the manufacture of real rustic wattle, young shoots of any trees and non-thorny shrubs are used. Best suited for these purposes:

A low-cost method of harvesting vines is a trip to the nearest planting or to the bank of a river.

Weaving vine can be harvested at any time of the year, but it is better to do it in winter or early spring before the start of sap flow.

The most popular and affordable material is willow. Since many species grow in the middle lane, it is better to choose rods of a juicy green, yellow or reddish hue for weaving. For the manufacture of a wicker fence from branches, annual shoots with a diameter of 1.5-5 cm and a length of 2-3 meters are suitable. The thickness depends on the designer's intent - low fences can also be made from thin branches. With a sharp knife, the branches are cut at an angle and tied into tight bundles.

If harvesting is carried out in winter, the vine must thaw for several hours at room temperature before processing.

Then the bark is removed. This is done in order to extend the life of the structure. If desired, the fence, woven from barked vines, can later be painted or varnished.

There are several methods for removing the bark:

If the vine is harvested at the beginning of sap flow, the bark is removed well and without additional effort.

The prepared vine is stored in bundles on special supports or suspended.

Foundation construction

Depending on the height of the fence, metal rods, wooden stakes or posts are used for supports. Metal pipes are used for high fences, and wooden pegs will look more natural in small decorative fences.

The disadvantage of using wood is its susceptibility to decay, therefore, before starting work, the lower part is treated with any antiseptic. You can use bitumen, resin or firing over a flame.

Then the marking of the future fence is done - pegs are driven in at the control points and the twine is pulled. The marking follows the contours of the fence.

The pegs are cut to the height of the desired fence with a margin of 10-15 cm at the top and at least 40-50 cm at the bottom (the part that will be in the ground is treated with anti-rotting drugs). It is convenient to make holes for stakes with a crowbar, driving it into the ground:

The distance between the pegs depends on the thickness of the vine and the height of the fence, and on average ranges from 30 cm to 1.2 m.

With a vine thickness of 2.5-3 cm, the distance between the supports of 50 cm will be optimal. The extreme pegs are installed 2-3 times closer to each other - to create a castle. In our case, this distance will be 20 cm.

It makes sense to divide the prepared rods by thickness - it is advisable to use thicker branches in the lower part of the wattle fence.

fence weaving

You should start braiding, starting from the thick end of the branch. The first rod is superimposed on the front side of the first peg and wound on the wrong side of the second. When the vine ends, the next branch begins to lead into the previous peg. The second row is woven from the opposite end of the structure. Weaving the second row will be a mirror image of the first:

If the branches are too thin, weaving in bunches looks spectacular. You can use a vine of different lengths so that the thin and thick ends are evenly distributed along the entire weave:

Over time, the vine shrinks and uneven gaps may appear between the rods, so each subsequent row is laid close to the previous one (you can compact the rows with a hammer). Every 4-5 rows, the last rod is screwed to the posts from the front and back sides - this will prevent the entire weaving from falling in the future. Extra, strongly protruding parts of the rods are cut off in the course of weaving. The upper rod is also fixed on pegs with screws or self-tapping screws - when the branches are deformed, the fixed ends will not rise.

If a wicker fence made of branches high, at a distance of 20-25 cm from the top, the three extreme columns are tied with wire. Then, with the help of a short piece of reinforcement, the wire is interlaced. Such a technique will protect the structure from “squeezing” the extreme support.

Unusual wicker fence made of branches

A type of wicker fence is a fence made of snags. Although the weaving technique is not used here, the bizarre shape of the material creates the illusion of openwork lace:

When making a fabulous fence, it is important to observe the following rules:

The final touch in the arrangement of a wicker fence made of branches will be its decoration. It is advisable to open the structure with an antiseptic composition. Some substances change the color of wood:

The protruding parts of a wicker fence made of branches can be cut flush with the main plane, or they can be decorated with clay pots.

It would seem that relatively recently the wattle fence, made by the hands of the owners, was an indispensable attribute of almost every village house. Not at all because of a whim, just sometimes it was the only available “own” version of the fence. Now, when there are a lot of materials of different price categories for fencing the territory, you can put up any fence. However, the wattle still remains relevant. True, already as a wicker decorative element for the garden. Thanks to natural branches or vines and emphasized archaism, it will ideally fit almost any style of a suburban area. Plus, it's easy to make your own.

Features of the fence for giving, the pros and cons

The classic wattle fence is a light fence made of branches. The structure of such a fence is chaotic, a little messy, the material used is almost not subject to processing. Now wicker fences are made up to 1.5 m high. You can also find a real wattle fence of a larger size, but this design does not justify itself: the material is too fragile, and the gaps between the branches do not hide the area well from outsiders.

Wicker fence on the site looks beautiful and original

Therefore, now fences are more often used to delimit the space of the site into zones, fencing flower beds and beds. If you add some ethnic accessories to such a fence, your garden will take on a colorful look.

The advantages of wicker fences include:

• cheapness and availability of materials;
• environmental friendliness and naturalness;
• originality and unusualness of the solution;
• possibility of assembly and disassembly if necessary.

But there are also disadvantages.

1. The design may not last long, especially if it is made of thin rods. Even a dense wattle fence will last an average of 5-7 years. After that, the decay becomes noticeable. Natural wood is very susceptible to moisture. To prolong the life of the wattle fence, avoid the accumulation of water under it. Try to regularly mow the grass under the structure and around it - in such thickets, high humidity lasts a long time. In addition, it would be useful to annually treat the surface with antiseptics or protective varnishes.
2. A wicker fence can perform a security function only if it is made of durable materials, including thick, dense rods. It is difficult to make such a design with your own hands.

What are the capital and decorative types of wicker fence

There are three types of wattle:

• depending on the height;
• according to the method of weaving;
• by installation method.

Let's consider them in more detail.

Height dependent

1. High wattle fences reach 2 m in height. If you make pillars of brick or stone, and take fairly thick branches for spans (from 2 cm in diameter or more), then such a construction can be considered capital.
2. Medium wattle fences are made about 1 m high. They usually delimit the site into zones, separating, for example, an area for recreation or planting.
3. Low wattle fences are usually made about knee-high, not higher. Such designs are most often used to decorate flower beds.

According to the method of weaving branches

1. Horizontal fences are considered the easiest to manufacture. For them, vines up to 2 m long are taken and laid between supports installed vertically. The step between the supports is 30–50 cm, depending on the thickness of the vine. It is this distance that is optimal for the convenience of weaving. A thin vine will need a smaller pitch to achieve the desired density; thick rods are more convenient to weave into supports at a greater distance.
2. For the manufacture of a vertical wattle fence, horizontal crossbars are installed on the pillars, representing the basis for the fence. Thanks to the vertical direction of weaving, you can embody many different patterns.

   To create a vertical fence, branches are woven between horizontally fixed crossbars.

3. For inclined wicker branches, the supporting branches are placed in increments of 30–50 cm, and a vine is woven diagonally between them.

   Diagonal weaving allows you to get a simple, but original and elegant pattern, even from thick branches.

4. Weaving "chess". For him, the vines are placed in a horizontal bunch of several pieces and the branches are woven so that a checkerboard pattern is obtained.

   Weaving between the supports of bundles of several rods allows you to achieve a "chess" pattern

By installation method

Proper preparation of improvised material for wattle

Willow, willow and hazel are considered the most suitable for weaving. Their branches are long, flexible and even, they have practically no transverse processes. In some regions, wild reeds are used in weaving fences, its stems have the same qualities, but fragility can be attributed to their shortcomings. The strongest material for weaving is bamboo, but it does not grow in our latitudes, so it will have to be purchased.

Willow is the lightest, most common and affordable material for making wattle

For supporting pillars, you will need even branches of greater thickness, with a diameter of at least 4 cm. It is appropriate to use boards, metal rods or a round bar. This will have a positive effect on the duration of the product, but such pillars will stand out too much from the general background, and the wattle fence will no longer look natural.

When calculating the amount of material used, take into account the distance between the bearing crossbars, which averages 30–50 cm. The density of weaving of the vines also depends on the frequency of the location of the supports (the more often, the denser), and hence the strength of the finished wattle fence. The vertical direction of weaving implies the presence of at least 5 crossbars located along the entire height of the structure.

How to prepare willow vine and other branches

You need to collect the vine for wattle in the fall or early spring, when the juice practically does not move along the branches, and there is practically no foliage on the tree. Choose long and as even shoots as possible with a diameter of about 1 cm. Thicker branches will make the structure stronger, but less dense.

You need to harvest rods in early spring or autumn.

Immediately after harvesting, the branches must be dried, and then proceed to the preparation for work. Soak them in a container of water and leave for about a week. If the branches are freshly cut, 2-3 days are enough. Soaking will make the branches more flexible, and you can easily remove the bark from them. This will help you pinch, which is a split branch with a limiter. If you do not have it, pliers or wire cutters will help you. Insert the tip of the rod into the clips of the wire cutters and pull it towards you. From a well-soaked branch, the bark will be removed without effort.

The vine must be soaked and cleaned of bark before work.

Treat the cleaned rods with an antiseptic to increase the service life, and with a stain to change the color (this is optional).

Please note that each branch will have to be processed separately, so such manipulations will be appropriate if you are going to build a small fence.

Soak the support stakes from below with antiseptic agents and compounds that protect against moisture. This will keep them from rot.

Video: processing willow vines yourself

A step-by-step master class on making wattle

The material is fully prepared, and now you can proceed directly to the process. For it, you will need to stock up on tools:

• secateurs;
• hacksaw for metal;
• roulette;
• wooden hammer;
• large hammer or sledgehammer;
• wire;
• construction thread or fishing line;
• screwdriver.

Horizontal weaving is considered simpler and more commonly used. Thanks to him, you can form a strong and dense fence. Start installing the fence.

1. Do the markup. Pull the thread along the line of the proposed fence and mark the supports along this landmark. The distance between them should be 30–50 cm. If you are weaving a vertical wattle fence, drive in the posts at a distance of 1 meter.

   Pulling the construction thread for the support stakes will make the fence even

2. Drive in supports for the fence to a depth of half a meter. At the beginning and end of the fence, place 2 racks: between them you can wrap the rod, fixing it.
3. Fix the tops of the supporting pillars with a rail, otherwise they may “lead” during the weaving process. Use nails or screws to secure them. If a vertical fence is assembled, the crossbars are installed across.

   Weaving can be either horizontal or vertical.

4. Weave rods between the posts. Start with a thicker end and follow the figure-of-eight principle: go around the first pillar from the front, the next from behind, then again from the front, and so on. Fasten the lower rods with wire to the supporting stakes so that the wattle fence does not slip down.
5. Trim off the excess. If the vine ended on some pillar in the middle, for example, the fifth, then you need to continue weaving from the fourth. So the fence will be homogeneous. Periodically direct the rods in the other direction to change the course of weaving. Fix the protruding ends of the vine with wire.

   If you weave several rods at once, the pattern will turn out even more beautiful.

6. Before installing the last row of rods, remove the fixing bar. Tie the top row to the supporting stakes with wire.

Please note that those parts of the supports that are buried in the ground are the weakest point of the fence. Because of the wet ground, they quickly rot and collapse. To avoid this, I recommend installing them in pre-drilled plastic pipes of the appropriate diameter. Metal pipes can also be used, but they are prone to corrosion, which will also adversely affect the wood.

Do vertical weaving in the same way, and fix it from above and below so that the fence is stable.

Video: making hazel wattle

Making your garden or summer cottage stylish and original is not difficult at all, and a wicker fence is proof of this. Try to make it yourself and see for yourself. Good luck!

Wicker fence. How to make a wattle fence with your own hands in the country: photos, videos of making.

Wattle - a fence made by weaving flexible rods of branches. The method of weaving in the manufacture of hedges has been used by our ancestors since time immemorial. You can make a wicker fence yourself, it will create an original rustic flavor in your summer cottage.

Here are some photos of the wattle fence in the garden.

The design of a wicker fence consists of vertical pegs driven into the ground, and rods are alternately intertwined between the pegs.

What to make wattle stakes from?

Since ancient times, our ancestors preferred walnut stakes, walnut has a fairly strong wood structure, and when it dries, it becomes very light. But it is not at all necessary to use a walnut, stakes can be made from any wood, it is advisable to use hardwoods - mulberry, apple, pear, birch, oak, acacia.

The height of the wattle fence can be any depending on your wishes, but usually it does not exceed 1.5 meters, the stakes must be driven into the ground to a depth of half a meter. The distance between the stakes is also half a meter.

It is important that the distance between the stakes is the same.

We measure the length of the future fence and calculate how many stakes are needed for the fence.

We make stakes from even branches, the thickness of future stakes should not exceed 5 cm, side branches should be chopped off with an ax or cut with a large knife. We make the lower part of the stakes sharp so that it is easier to hammer them into the ground.

To make the stakes last longer, the bark must be cut off from them.

If the stakes are stuck into the ground without first being treated with a protective compound, they will rot in 2-3 years. Therefore, that part of the stakes that will be in the ground must be processed, you can cover them with bitumen, resin, engine oil waste, an antiseptic, or just char a little on a fire.

Stakes need to be driven into the ground about half a meter, the height of the stakes can be the same or different. If the fence is up to 1 meter high, then it is enough to hammer the stakes into the ground by 30 cm.

What to make wattle? For the manufacture of a wicker fence, flexible branches of vines, willows, willows, birches are suitable, you can also make wattle from hazel, mountain ash. The thickness of the branches should be no more than 3 cm, the length should be sufficient for braiding at least 3 stakes.

Branches must be freshly cut, dry branches lose their flexibility and cannot be weaved. The cut must be made oblique.

Now let's start weaving the fence.

How to make a fence with your own hands photo.

We alternately weave the rods between the stakes, we begin to weave the thicker part of the rod, so that later we can hide the thin part in the braid.

Not so long ago, wicker fences were the main way to separate private properties. Emphasized antiquity and the natural origin of raw materials allow the fence to fit organically into the country landscape. For this reason, they are in demand in large areas near settlements and between them, as well as in parks and various natural objects. If you need to create a rustic entourage or the atmosphere of an old courtyard - first of all, you should take care of the appearance of the fence. Depending on the direction of the rods, wicker fences are divided into horizontal and vertical. The first option is usually denser and takes a lot more branches. Live wattle fences are also popular. They look fresher, and sometimes additionally decorated with a hedge of lush plants. Wattle refers to the type of structures that can be made without special education.

Peculiarities

An ordinary wattle fence is a light barrier of shoots and flexible branches. In such a fence, chaotic lines and a handicraft structure stand out. The material is applied in its natural form, almost without being processed. Wicker fences are mainly decorative structures, because they are rarely built to a height of more than 1.5 m. There are also high modifications, but this option is not always justified, since large dimensions do not solve the problem of the fragility of the material itself, and even in a large fence there will be more crevices and they, in principle, will become larger.

The above nuances imply frequent repair of the fence, as well as a large open area for viewing by strangers. The main advantages of wattle are the low cost and lightness of consumables. Wicker fences are relevant to this day and are combined with many styles of site design.

Where to use wattle

This is how small plots of land are fenced. Wattle fences are also used as additional fences inside private property. Low options are also erected along the paths. They are often used to separate gardens, vegetable gardens and flower beds from the rest of the space. The wattle fence perfectly delimits the territory of two neighboring plots. Low and medium fences will not cast a large shadow in any direction. Branches are great for building partitions used for zoning the territory. So equip summer and playgrounds, gazebos, terraces. Fences are also used to decorate the barbecue area. Low wicker fences can be seen in themed restaurants. Wattle is an important element for expressing ethnic style. In dachas and other properties, the wicker fence goes well with other wicker items - chairs, rocking chairs and tables.

Material selection and calculation

Such fences are usually woven from willow or hazel. These plants have long, smooth and flexible branches with little or no transverse processes. This raw material is symmetrical, this is an important plus. Sometimes reed stalks are used, as they bend well, but the structure is fragile. Bamboo is especially strong, but it will have to be ordered. To create wickerwork, a vine without bark is used. The calculation of the required amount of material is made "by eye". One armful is enough for a fence 50 cm high and long. This value is not constant and may deviate towards decrease or increase, since the diameter of the rods is different, and the weaving density is selected individually. Tyn can be erected from young branches of many shrubs and trees, but only at a certain length - from 1 meter. In this case, the work will be more difficult, and the weaving itself will be chaotic.

Other nuances:

1. Large even branches from 4 cm in diameter are used as a support. It is appropriate to use metal rods, boards, round timber, if they do not spoil the overall picture and do not stand out strongly.
2. The step between the crossbars is usually 0.3-0.5 meters.

Types of weaving fences

Weaving options are distinguished according to several criteria. Depending on the height, it can be high (the height of the fence is more than 2 m), medium (1-2 m) and low (below 0.7 m). The first type of weaving involves the creation of capital structures, for example, an external fence. The second is used to separate zones and separate small summer cottages. The third type is associated with the creation of decorative partitions, fencing flower beds and paths. Depending on the principle of connecting the elements, horizontal, vertical and oblique weaving, as well as the less common rounded and checkerboard, are distinguished. In the first case, we are talking about laying long rods perpendicular to the vertical supports. In the second, horizontal veins act as the basis for the vertical placement of branches. The inclined version implies diagonal placement in increments of up to 0.3 m. According to the installation method, weaving is distinguished on poles, which is carried out immediately on supports, and in sections, when the canvases are woven separately and then placed between the pegs.

Step-by-step instruction

The wattle is constructed in several steps:

1. Preparation of materials: branches of various thicknesses separately for the base and for the canvas.
2. Preparing tools.
3. Accounts on the territory.
4. Foundation creation.
5. Installation of rods on the base.
6. Elimination of defects immediately after the creation of the fence.

The first step is to decide on the choice of raw materials. The final decision should primarily be influenced by the planned configuration and purpose of the wicker structure. Materials need to be collected or purchased. The first option is preferable, since the collection of stems does not take much time. However, in a year there are two small periods of time for this. The collected twigs are sorted according to their thickness. Large branches for supports must be processed. Then the exact place to install the base is determined. Pegs are hammered into the prepared ground to the desired depth. Further actions depend on the selected weaving option. There are two main ways: horizontal and vertical. The first is used more often. When the wattle becomes dense enough, it remains only to decorate. There are few traditional decor options, literally two or three, but there are much more ways to decorate the fence.

Materials and tools for building a fence

The first step is to decide which type of plant will serve as the basis for obtaining elements of the future design. It is recommended to choose between willow and hazel. Straight, flexible and long branches are needed. The minimum allowable thickness is about 1 cm. The role of the support is assigned to branches with a diameter of at least 4 cm. Instead, it is permissible to use a round beam, as well as iron rods, although this option is undesirable due to the violation of the natural appearance. The twigs should be harvested in early spring or during the autumn months. They will need to be softened in water and cleaned of bark. In addition, you need to collect tools. To create a wicker fence, you need tools such as nails, a screwdriver, construction fishing line or thread, wire, a sledgehammer or a large hammer, tape measures, a wooden mallet, hacksaws, and pruners.

Foundation preparation

The base can be made from almost any type of wood. From the material you will need to get pointed pegs for insertion into the soil. Install them at the same distance from each other. The recommended depth of driving supports into the ground starts from 20 cm and increases depending on the height of the planned structure up to 50 cm. An ideal structure will withstand strong winds and ground settlement. The minimum allowable diameter of the support-pegs is 4-5 cm. One of the most durable are larch poles. If the pegs are made in the classic version (i.e., made of wood), then they are treated with impregnations, antiseptics and varnishes. These measures are directed against rotting and brittleness. Sections need to be further charred. Under the base it is necessary to make drainage from sand and gravel. The height of the fence is determined based on the purpose and individual wishes.

Rod preparation

Harvesting of material is carried out in autumn or early spring. The movement of juice at this time is minimal and the plant does not have a large number of leaves. Priority is given to the straightest and longest stems. If the fence is not erected soon, the branches are dried. For a standard fence, shoots are selected within a 3-centimeter width. Wider rods strengthen the fence. Shortly before weaving begins, the branches are soaked in water to give flexibility and remove the bark. The duration of this stage of work is approximately a week, but in the case of freshly cut rods, it is reduced to several days. For the processing of branches, a clipper is used. You can also use pliers or pliers. The end of the branch is placed between the clamps and pulled towards itself. If the shoot is well wet, the removal of the bark will pass without difficulty. Ideally cleaned branches are best covered with stain and antiseptic. You can correct their color. However, if you plan to build a large fence, it will take too long.

The bearing elements of the horizontal version are pillars driven into the ground. The base should consist not only of pegs, but also of sand and gravel drainage. Smooth thick pillars are introduced into the soil with a gap of 1-1.5 m between adjacent elements. If the branches for forming the section are very thin, then a minimum distance of 1 m is chosen. We take the rod by the thick edge and wind it up behind the second pillar, by continuing the branch we go around the extreme stake and move along all the supports with the "eight". It is desirable that one vine is enough to cover at least three pegs. Each subsequent row starts from the opposite edge. It is necessary to observe uniformity in the placement of thick and thin rods, and so on throughout the fence. The thickness of the wattle at different points should not differ much. When the structure reaches the desired height, you will need to trim the length of the rods.

To make the rows of rods more dense, they should be tapped with a wooden mallet from top to bottom.

The method of installing the base is initially similar to the horizontal version. Support poles are driven in the same way. Parallel to the ground, you will need to install at least 3 strips of rods about the same thickness as the pegs, or less. They are tied or nailed to supports. The final number of planks depends on the height of the fence - they should be placed no further than 25 cm from each other. In order for the fence to have a neat appearance, a crossbar is placed on the upper side, which is removed after completion of work. Rods are vertically attached to the support strips, coinciding in height with the fence. With thick edges, these branches rest against the ground and after that are intertwined with horizontal supports. From above the rods need to be fixed. The wire is designed for this task. Alternatively, you can use a thin rope or weave several horizontal rods.

decoration

Previously, sunflowers and cornflowers were planted near wicker fences. Such decoration is considered classic. Modern options involve planting fresh flowers, as well as the use of artificial ones. A flower arrangement can be created from nasturtiums, chrysanthemums, asters, daisies. Wicker fence canvas is a suitable place for climbing plants. Diversify the monotonous row of benches made of boards, cuts and stumps. It is customary to hang pots on the tops of the supporting pillars. Similarly, small stuffed animals, boots, etc. can be used. Decorating can be approached more thoroughly. For example, pick up and place several dozen large decorative stones of different colors near the wattle fence, install 1-2 flowerpots with saturated green vegetation and a wheel from an old wagon on them. Get a spectacular and inexpensive composition. A wicker arch can be erected next to the gate.

We plant a live wattle fence

Such a fence will grow up and in thickness. Branches that have become too high are cut or sent lower. Living wattle fence practically does not protect the territory, however, it can be made a zone separator within the site. To collect a living wattle fence in a vertical direction, you will first need to prepare the soil. To do this, select places for support pillars. We select the distance between the elements within 1-1.5 meters. Then the supports (4-5 centimeters thick) are driven into the ground by 40 or 50 cm. To facilitate this process, the lower ends of the supports should first be sharpened. Next, we attach the transverse logs. With the help of wire, we install thinner rods in several rows (3 are enough at a height of 1.5 meters). Then it's time to plant the branches. Shoots up to 3 cm thick are immersed in the soil by 30 cm. The distance between the stems should not be less than 10 and more than 30 cm. The live wattle fence will grow and make the composition more dense.

Twigs should be placed with a slight slope to make it easier to change the composition if necessary.