Does a brick house shrink? Shrinkage of a private house: is it possible to avoid, how to eliminate it, recommendations and videos Give a sufficiently large shrinkage that

The method of monolithic construction came to the economy class from a more expensive sector of the industry. Among potential home buyers there is a bike that monolithic houses are better than panel ones. To a reasonable question “Why?”, everyone just shrug their shoulders. “Everyone thinks so,” is their main argument. Let's put everything on the shelves, which houses are better, monolithic or panel.

Which house is better, monolith or panel?

First, let's figure out what a monolithic house means. This is a building constructed by pouring a concrete mixture into a prepared formwork, inside of which a reinforcing cage is located. In this case, each subsequent element is connected to the previous one without connecting seams.

There is also another concept. Brick-monolithic house - what is it? The difference between a brick-monolithic house and a simply monolithic one is that in the first type of building, the outer walls of the building are additionally lined with bricks.

Let's go through the main properties that characterize housing construction.

  • Price. For a potential buyer, this characteristic is the most important when choosing the type of house. And the "panel" here stands out from the best side. And even if the cost of a monolithic house does not differ much from the cost of a panel house, then at the stage of repairing and finishing an apartment, the future owner of a “monolithic” living space will have to spend a considerable amount.
  • Speed. Panel houses are built almost 3 times faster than monolithic ones.

The panel house, in fact, is created at the factory, and is transported in parts to the construction site. Monolithic is being built directly on the construction site. Here, the speed of construction is influenced by many external factors. Weather conditions play a significant role here. For example, at negative temperatures, concrete does not set at all, and therefore it becomes impossible to carry out construction. It is necessary either to heat up the concrete mixture, which reduces its quality, or to introduce special antifreeze additives, which significantly affects the cost, or to freeze the construction during the cold period, which increases the construction time.

  • Appearance. Here, on this point, monolithic housing construction occupies a leading position. "Monolith" does not limit the imagination of architects both in choosing a facade solution and in planning apartments.

Panel houses are characterized by the uniformity of forms, patterned facades and standard planning solutions. Apartments in a panel building, mainly one- and two-room apartments, are small in size and have a boring layout.

  • Shrinkage. The question of whether a monolithic house sits down is relevant for many potential apartment owners. After all, experts often advise not to immediately make serious repairs in a new building, but to wait a year or two, because due to shrinkage of the house, freshly laid tiles can crack and fall off, drywall will also crack, and plaster will begin to crumble in pieces.
  • Lifetime. Due to the minimum possible number of joints and uniform distribution of the load on the foundation, the service life of monolithic houses is much longer than panel ones. The service life of a structure made of a monolith reaches 100-140 years, subject to the technological requirements during the construction of the building. The service life of the "panel" is limited to 30-40 years.

In order for you to form an objective opinion, we will determine which house is better, a monolith or a brick.

Which house is better, monolithic or brick

  • Construction time. Due to the greater complexity of the process, a brick house is built longer.
  • Appearance. Both types of houses offer freedom of design ideas.
  • Shrinkage. A monolithic house shrinks evenly, which is almost imperceptible to ordinary people, while a brick house shrinks quite strongly.

To summarize all of the above, we will briefly indicate what are the pros and cons of a monolithic house.

Monolithic house - pros and cons

Advantages of a monolithic house

  • Sufficiently high construction speed.
  • Small shrinkage.
  • Light weight. Due to improved technology, the required thickness of the outer walls is reduced.
  • Uniform distribution of the load on the foundation.
  • High strength. Achieved by minimizing the number of butt joints.
  • Free layout of apartments.
  • Increased living space by reducing wall thickness.
  • Long service life.
  • High seismic resistance.

Cons of a monolithic house

  • Price. Compared to a panel house, material costs are 10-15% higher.
  • Influence of weather conditions. Since the creation of building elements is carried out directly at the construction site, the air temperature significantly affects the quality of the structures being created and the construction time.
  • Importance of exact observance of correctness of technological processes. Good heat and sound insulation, high strength of the building and its durability are achieved only with the proper level of control over all operations.
  • The need for high-quality compaction of the poured mixture.
  • Reinforced concrete walls imply the need for insulation.
  • Soundproofing is also poor in monolithic structures.

Frequently asked Questions

Is it possible to demolish walls in a monolithic house?

The owners usually receive an apartment in a monolithic house without internal partitions. In this case, the owner independently creates a layout for his living space. If there is a need to demolish the wall, it is worth remembering some rules.


There are 2 types of layouts: simple and complex. Simple redevelopments imply intervention only in non-load-bearing walls and structures, while complex ones, respectively, are characterized by a change in load-bearing walls.

Simple redevelopment can be done without prior approval. However, it should be noted that it is impossible to expand the bathroom and transfer plumbing outside the boundaries of the "wet zone".

If you want to expand the bathroom or move plumbing outside it, you need to create a project. Any design organization will help develop it. After all the work, it is necessary, again, to approve them.

Getting permission for complex redevelopment is not so easy. To do this, it is necessary to develop a project that necessarily includes drawings before and after changes and an explanatory note. You also need to arm yourself with the permission of the neighbors from above and below to explore their apartments.

Is it possible to ditch the ceiling in a monolithic house

Channels for engineering networks in a monolithic house are provided in advance. This is done so that by chasing or some other intervention, the structure is not weakened and the reinforcement is not exposed.

This dangerous operation can become a real threat to the life of not only your life, but the life of all residents of the house.
In this case, if it is necessary to change the location of the wiring, it is better not to ditch the ceiling, but to mask the cables with a layer of plaster.

Reviews of residents of monolithic houses

Kseniya
About a year ago we moved into a monolithic house. Before that, they lived in a panel. The main advantage is that the apartment is warm even in severe frosts. But the soundproofing is not happy. Even worse than it was in the old apartment.

Vladimir
I took an apartment in a brick-monolithic building. Appearance pleases the eye, lining and finishing - at a good level. The builders did not clamp down on high-quality insulation and sound insulation. It's strange that someone complains about the neighbors. Apparently, the whole point is how builders adhere to the norms and rules of technological processes.

Sergey
My team is in the finishing of new buildings. A year and a half ago, we rented an apartment in a turnkey monolithic house. The customer is satisfied, during this time nothing has fallen off, the ceiling is in place, etc. At the same time, a similar repair did not last even a month in a brick house. Tiles were falling in the kitchen. The owner blames us. But the house just gave such a shrinkage!

stroika-product.ru

The answer depends on which house you bought an apartment in.

Now they are building monolithic, monolithic-frame, prefabricated and brick houses.


The most reliable and resistant to shrinkage and cracking are monolithic reinforced concrete houses.

The most susceptible to deformation are brick houses.

Almost all new buildings are built on pile foundations, one of the most reliable and non-shrinking, with a large margin of safety. Foundations are calculated for maximum static and dynamic (horizontal and vertical) loads, and after that the result is multiplied by the load safety factor (GOST 27751-88), which reaches up to 1.5 under different conditions.

New buildings shrink slightly during the year - this period accounts for the maximum amount of apartment renovation.

For the most part, talk about large cracks and the laid tiles that have fallen off from the shrinkage of the house is a myth.

Now quite often in new buildings they install unified concrete sanitary cabins with separate or combined bathrooms, in the left or right version (in relation to the sewer riser). Such cabins are poured at the factory in a monolithic design, only the floor, in the form of a separate pallet, is welded from below to the walls. Such bathrooms are not subject to any deformation and shrinkage - you can safely lay tiles in them and not be afraid that it will fall off.

If your new building has just such a monolithic bathroom, no cracks will appear in it.

Almost always, such cabins are installed in prefabricated panel houses, less often in monolithic and monolithic frame houses, and in brick skyscrapers, sanitary rooms are mostly walled out of brick or plaster, slag, foam ... blocks.


You can start making repairs immediately after putting the house into operation, which, by the way, is what most residents do.

To avoid problems, you need to do the repair correctly:

  • do not violate the supporting structures of the house;
  • arrange screeds using damper tape and expansion joints;
  • ceilings to mount floating or stretch;
  • do not wrap the wallpaper in the inner corners of the rooms, but glue it end-to-end;
  • if the bathroom is not concrete, plastic or metal decorative corners should be used on the inner and outer corners.

www.remotvet.ru

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of this technology is the uniqueness of the building - a series of monolithic brick houses differ from each other, as they are made according to a special project. The buildings are expressive and individual in their architectural style. It seems that the house is completely made of brick, but it is used sparingly, due to which it significantly wins in the cost of construction (see also the article Brick-monolithic house - pros and cons from the tenant's point of view).


In the 1950s, preference was given to prefabricated construction in the USSR. Then they began to use brick, and in the 70s they began to massively build panel houses. And only in recent decades, the technology of building a monolithic brick house has become the most promising for developers.

The construction of a monolith is fundamentally different from a panel. Panel houses are folded like a constructor from cubes, and a monolith is a load-bearing frame of a house made of solid concrete.

The concrete skeleton of the building grows from floor to floor, it is poured using wooden or metal formwork. The formwork material does not affect the final strength of the structure, only the appearance of the concrete depends on it.

What is the difference between a monolithic house and a brick house?

  • Concrete does not give or absorb moisture, so it will be harder to breathe in such houses.
  • Due to the minimum of seams at the joints, heat loss and audibility are reduced in monolithic brick houses.
  • The price of building from a monolith is cheaper, and the durability and safety are higher.
  • Due to the high speed of construction, such houses are more attractive to equity holders.
  • Brick-monolithic construction allows, due to the frame, to increase the number of storeys of buildings several times, compared to ordinary houses.

Note! Brick-monolithic houses have one feature: the walls in them are self-supporting enclosing structures, and they should not transmit and receive the loads of other floors, except for their own weight and wind effects. The separation of concrete from internal power processes is usually performed by means of expansion joints.

Construction technology

If we talk about the technology of erecting modern multi-storey monolithic-brick houses, then a brief instruction for their construction will look like this:

  • A pit is dug out and the foundation is poured.
  • Then the reinforced concrete frame is erected, the formwork is poured. When the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed and new floors are made. Thus, floor by floor, the frame of the house is being built.
  • When the first 2-3 floors of the house are ready, the laying of wall partitions usually begins, for this they use red building bricks, single or double silicate brick M 150.
  • In parallel with the construction of new floors, all communications are carried out on ready-made ones: pipes, batteries, window blocks are installed, electricity is connected. This allows you to increase the speed of work, due to the division of labor - all builders can work simultaneously.

The video in this article will tell you how houses are built using monolithic-brick technology:

Problems of modern new buildings

Since brick walls are usually made multi-layered, with an inner layer, insulation and cladding, therefore, in order to maintain spatial rigidity and reliability of the structure, they are connected with a flexible connection using masonry mesh and reinforcement (see also the article Which house is better - monolithic, brick or panel. information for buyers).

If masons have little experience, they do not understand the importance of having technological seams and reinforcing masonry. The average builder thinks this is superfluous, and thinks that the floors should be held on to the brick walls. If you lay out the masonry without resting on a monolithic slab and seal the seams tightly with cement, the stone wall will be open, and after shrinkage of the supporting structures, the walls will begin to bend like an accordion and eventually crack.

The appearance of a large number of cracks will cause moisture from slanting rains to enter the walls, and then the bricks to bulge and the solution to be washed out. Such defects can lead to critical consequences, so it will be necessary to take comprehensive measures and bring defective structures to the design state.

Note! If the developer's warranty has not yet ended, in case of violation of the project and the requirements of SNiP, he must fix everything at his own expense. If the residents of the house do not respond in time to the appearance of such cracks by ordering an examination, then they will have to fix everything at their own expense.

In the photo you can see the result of technology violation:

Many buyers of such houses are concerned about the question of whether such a house shrinks, because the repairs made can be spoiled due to the appearance of cracks in the new building. It depends on several factors, including the developer.

Subject to the technology, shrinkage should be uniform and minimal, but the appearance of cracks is still possible in the first years after the delivery of the house.

Therefore, to prevent cracks during repairs, you can use several tricks:

  • For the screed, use high-quality sand concrete. For plasticity, you need to add a plasticizer, reinforcement to the solution, make expansion joints.
  • Even seamless tiles need to be glued indented using crosses.
  • For walls and ceilings you need to use fiberglass. Its use minimizes the appearance of cracks in the finish.
  • Parquet board can be laid on plywood instead of screed to create a floating structure.

Redevelopment of a brick-monolithic house

Due to the fact that all the walls are supported by columns, in such an apartment you can do almost any redevelopment, openings and arches in the walls.

It is only important to follow the general rules so that the layout of the apartments of a monolithic brick house is legal:

  • It is impossible to dismantle load-bearing supports, walls, beams, ventilation, wall up gas pipes and wiring, central heating risers into the wall.
  • To change the gasification and water supply systems, you must contact a special service.
  • You can not install a bathroom above the kitchen and living quarters of neighbors, remove fire-fighting devices. For the redevelopment of the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen, you need to get the consent of the neighbors.
  • Living rooms must be at least 9 m2, with a width of at least 2.25 m. A window and a radiator are required.
  • You cannot increase the utility area at the expense of living space, but you can increase the living area at the expense of the corridor.

Formwork types

A monolithic + brick-monolithic house can be built using two types of formwork:

  • Removable - reusable;
  • Removable - disposable.

Fixed formwork is suitable for both one-story and multi-story buildings, using scaffolding. To create it, the walls are made of wood-cement hollow slabs or expanded polystyrene.

They are attached in parallel and fixed with metal ties. Concrete is poured into the voids between the slabs, resulting in a wall of 3 layers.

Due to the monolithic construction, good sound and heat insulation properties are provided. Additionally, you can make facade insulation with polystyrene foam or min. cotton wool.

To build up such walls in height, special wire ties with an anti-corrosion coating are used. It is especially important to first lay communications, and then pour concrete.

Approximate price of 1 sq. m. walls 28 cm thick with fixed formwork made of expanded polystyrene:

  • Formwork = 800 rubles;
  • Reinforcement d8-10 mm10 kg (minimum for a low-rise building) = 200 rubles;
  • Concrete M200 (B15) - 0.153 m3 = 382 rubles, 5 rubles.

Total: 1382.5 rubles.

Removable formwork is most often made of steel, but wooden formwork is also suitable for small amounts of work. Reusable formwork is needed to create hollow blocks.

It is a metal box without a bottom, inside which 2 hollow boxes are inserted. Removable holders are used to fix the formwork.

A monolith made using this technology does not have the same insulating properties as with fixed formwork. To fix this, loose insulation, such as foam chips, is poured into the solution. The main advantage of this technology is the high speed of work, and the possibility of erecting blocks with your own hands right on the construction site.

Conclusion

The construction of monolithic houses has become popular due to the high speed of construction and low material costs (find out here how to cut a brick). However, in pursuit of speed, builders often hand over objects with gross violations of the project, which then causes problems for the residents.

klademkirpich.ru

When choosing an apartment in a new building, most buyers prefer the so-called "rough finish". In practice, this usually means that new settlers receive ownership of the walls ("box") with water, gas, electricity and heating, and all other work - from leveling the floor and walls to installing plumbing, furniture and household appliances - they do on their own or attract experts. Undoubtedly, this approach allows you to transform the space of the apartment in accordance with the ideas of the owners about coziness and comfort, as well as to embody the most daring ideas in interior design. However, before embarking on a serious repair, many people think: “Is it time to start it?”

The specificity of new buildings is that the building, increasing floors, shrinks, and sometimes this process continues even after construction is completed. As a result, microcracks may appear in the walls and ceilings, distortions may occur, sometimes not noticeable to the human eye, but capable of damaging the decoration of the premises. And new settlers, frightened by stories about suddenly cracked tiles or fallen off plaster, postpone repairs in a new house until better times.

In order to understand the truth and myths about shrinkage, we turned to specialists and asked them to tell us when it is better to start repairs in a new building, as well as give recommendations on the choice of building and finishing materials.

Below are the responses received.

In your opinion, is it possible to start a full-fledged repair in a new apartment in the first year, immediately after receiving the keys?

Alexander Selin:

“It is widely believed that in the first year it is better not to make repairs in the apartment, since subsequently various problems with cracks may appear, the house shrinks, it needs to “settle” (as the people say). But this is more a myth, because the time during which the house is being built is enough for constructive shrinkage. Shrinkage is more related to the movement of the soil, so a similar problem may arise much later in an old house.

Cracks that appear in a new house after some time are more often associated with general shortcomings in the design of the house, mainly with non-compliance with technologies in relation to building materials and other nuances, for example, haste with the deadlines for the delivery of a new building.

I would recommend paying more attention to the following: if there is an opportunity to take your time with repairs and settlement, wait at least the first winter after putting the house in. Then you can check how warm the wall structure turned out to be, whether there are any freezing in frosts, whether the joints are tight in the rain, and make sure that the heating is working. This advice is more suitable for the situation when the house is rented out during the warm season, heating is only being tested, and it is difficult to find out how high-quality thermal insulation is in monolithic-brick houses, whether the seams in panel houses are well sealed, etc.”

Denis Karimov:

“Customers periodically ask me when to start repairs in a new apartment. I can’t give a definite answer - it simply does not exist. Everything is individual and depends on many factors. How well built is the house? Will it shrink within a year or 5 years? Have your nearest neighbors been renovated? Do you have time to wait, or do you need to move faster? What renovation are you planning? Etc…

For example, I'll tell you about the repair in my apartment. Monolith-brick, 28 floors, a long-term building stood for three years before delivery. When the keys were issued in June 2012, I immediately began to make repairs, since we had to move in before September (daughter was in first grade). Repair lasted 3 months in the literal sense of the word day and night. And, oh, miracle! September 5, we moved into the apartment. Of the tenants, I finished the repair first. I have walls for painting, plaster cornices, plasterboard ceiling.

Neighbors around were being repaired - left, right, bottom. It was noisy but tolerable. A year has passed: there was not a single crack in my apartment.

And now the neighbors from above have begun to repair! They started by dismantling the walls of the ventilation ducts. For two days I had hell at home: the work of the fender, pieces of falling walls on the ceiling and water leaking from above. As a result, the plasterboard ceiling cracked, the gypsum cornices cracked, the ceiling in the bathroom was flooded, 2 tiles cracked in the bathroom where the ventilation duct runs. All in two days. I took this philosophically: I knew what I was doing, starting repairs before anyone else, and I understood that this would be the case with time. The apartment renovation was completed a month ago. For the summer I plan to make myself cosmetics, repaint the walls, restore the plaster and the ceiling.

It seems to me that the main enemy of your repair is the neighbors from above. It is better to wait until the end of their repair. The house can shrink for a long time, or not at all, as lucky. And then the neighbors still “load” the house with a screed and walls (30-40 tons per 100 meter apartment).

Vitaly Likhov

“This is a fairly global issue, and much depends on the specific situation.

Regarding the start date of the repair work: it is certainly safest to do the work last. But this means that the apartment will stand, and its owner will delay the pleasure of living in it. And life, as you know, is one. In addition, according to experience, repairs subside in 7-10 years after the house is put into operation, since each house has a fairly large number of investment apartments. And this means that even if after 2-3 floors you will have repairs, the risk of cracks increases significantly.

In a panel house, the risk of cracks is much less than in monolithic-brick and brick houses. This is due to the design of the houses and the degree of their readiness.”

Konstantin Kukkoev

“Repairs can be done and even necessary. The most important thing is that technology is respected. Many argue that a new house can sink, but in reality this is not the case. Shrinkage is most often insignificant, and it does not affect the small deformations that occur in the house. If, for example, cracks appeared along the walls in a monolithic house, it means that they were made of poor quality. And it is difficult to protect yourself from such a situation, regardless of other circumstances.

Is it possible to solve the problems associated with house shrinkage by choosing materials that are more resistant to deformation or special technologies?

Alexander Selin:

“When a house shrinks, a crack can also break the integrity of the tile. It is difficult to say to what extent technologies and materials can minimize the effects of shrinkage.
In part, it is possible to save repairs, but not from shrinkage itself, but from minor shortcomings made in the construction of the house.

These technologies are usually associated with false walls and ceilings, with their elastic connection to the supporting structures of the house. High-quality finishing materials, for example, finishing putties and paints, will protect against microcracks. In general, if you are counting on a quality repair that will last a long time, remember the saying "the miser pays twice." And with the shrinkage of the house - then how lucky! »

Denis Karimov:

“To avoid cracks, I recommend using fabric-based wallpaper, stretch ceiling, parquet on the floor. If the walls are to be painted, then I glue the facade mesh (instead of the usual one for plastering), fiberglass (or interlining). Do not do textured plaster. If the ceiling is GKL, then for painting - interlining. The parquet should be allowed to rest in the apartment for two weeks so that it adapts to the climate. The tile can crack, no one is safe from this, but this does not mean that it is not necessary to glue the tile. The main thing is to prepare the base well. In fact, there are a lot of aspects and nuances in the repair, starting with the erection of the walls of the apartment and their mandatory reinforcement and ending with the final cleaning and renting out the apartment.”

Vitaly Likhov

“There are many recommendations regarding materials. It is better to build walls from a tongue-and-groove slab, the geometry of which is such that the glue layer is minimal, which means that the sediment is also minimal. When installing plasterboard walls and ceilings, it is better to do gypsum plasterboard in 2 layers, and glue fiberglass on top. In the manufacture of the screed, it is necessary not only to reinforce with a mesh, but also to install a damper tape around the perimeter. When choosing finishing materials, it should be taken into account that the wallpaper hides some of the cracks, leaving them behind their own layer.

Konstantin Kukkoev

“As for the repair, I’ll start with the specifics of laying the tiles. The main thing is to start with good preparation for tiles: plaster the walls with high quality, choose the right comb (the size of the comb teeth is determined based on the size of the tile). Be careful not to thicken the adhesive more than the manufacturer recommends. Otherwise, it is likely that the tile may crack or fall off.

If you make the walls for painting, then, perhaps, small cracks may appear on the corners and on the interior partitions. Therefore, I recommend using smooth flesilin, and then painting the walls. If microcracks form, then they will not be visible from under the interlining, and large cracks will appear as a slight displacement.

If you use drywall, it is necessary to glue the joints between surfaces and metal structures with a special sealing tape that softens vibrations and prevents cracks.

As for the main points: if you are doing a floor screed, it is necessary to observe all expansion joints along the perimeter, and the room itself must be divided along the openings so that the screeds are not connected.

Do the same with the leveler: if you use it, make sure that it does not touch the walls, and do not forget to divide it into rooms. Please note that when laying the floor covering, the leveled surface must comply with the requirements of the manufacturer in terms of humidity parameters.

I would recommend that newcomers look for competent builders and find out how they work before starting repairs. Ask them what technology they use, how they prepare, what materials they recommend using at each stage. And already on the basis of this information, it will be clear to you which specialist is in front of you. After all, technology itself is immutable.”

We thank all the experts who took part in the preparation of the material.

ideas.vdolevke.ru

Hello neighbors!
I did not find a similar topic on the forum, if anything, just throw a link and slippers at me for anti-search skills. Despite the fact that we will receive the keys to the second stage ... certainly not tomorrow, we are still starting to think about repairs and other issues. There is little knowledge, and more and more questions. So I apologize in advance for the awkwardness of the story.

It is clear that rough repairs must be done immediately, efficiently and thoughtfully. And then the questions:

Fine finish:
1. Does it make sense to do high-quality repairs right away?
2. What is the probability and timing of house shrinkage?
Someone says that a year is enough, and for some the walls "crack" for 5-6 years. Someone has not even encountered shrinkage problems, while others say that only pros who can calculate% shrinkage will help out here. Is there any detailed information on the houses of our class?

If there is shrinkage, then:
1. Does it make sense to put tiles in the bath?
2. What floor to lay? Laminate, cork, or only linoleum will help for the first time?
3. Walls for painting also do not shine for us? What then? Wallpaper, panels?
4. Is the ceiling only stretch?
5. What other problems might arise?

There is an opinion that in new buildings the first repair should be budgetary, because the house shrinks after the tenants move in with belongings, furniture and other joys.

How are you planning?

Our life situation requires a speedy move and hence the new questions:

1. Assume that there will be shrinkage. Accordingly, do we make the most budgetary fine finish and save money for repeated repairs?
2. How to organize the fastest moving? So far, I see this option: rough finish in the entire apartment + fine finish in the kitchen, bathroom / toilet, corridor and 1 room. The remaining rooms are closed until better times and the accumulation of funds.
3. Quiet hours have already been discussed on the forum. Many people here are family and I want to believe that we will be able to agree on a day break.
4. Noise - you read stories about how neighbors three floors above sing songs and you get scared. Only additional noise insulation of the floor / ceiling / load-bearing walls? With our ceilings ... Really? Or is it not so scary?

I want to make a beautiful and cozy renovation for the family, but I really don’t want to repeat it in just a few years because of cracked walls, flying tiles, warped doors ...

Thanks in advance for your opinion!

forum.novie-snegiri.ru

Why is house shrinkage inevitable?

Experts call the process of shrinking a new home natural. The piles and the foundation of the new building have to withstand the pressure of the structure, which increases as the residents move in. The degree of shrinkage of the house largely determines the type of foundation and soil features of the site where the house is located. On so-called soft soils, it is longer than when building on stable solid soils.

Responsible developer companies base the choice of foundation on data from geodetic and geological surveys. All the nuances are taken into account, including the type of soil, the level of groundwater and other factors. Usually foundation shrinkage building is calculated and included in the project in advance.

A newly built house can “sit down” in its place for quite a long time - from 2 to 6 years. On average, complete shaking, shrinkage and shrinkage occurs in 2-3 years. However, the walls of some buildings "walk" for more than 6 years.

At the same time, the heavier the structure, the more tangible the process - so the shrinkage of a new house made of heavier bricks is much more difficult than buildings made of lightweight cellular concrete.

When to start renovations in a new apartment?

It is quite understandable that the owners want to start repairing the apartment immediately after the purchase. Especially if the housing is purchased with a rough finish. Living in such conditions is, of course, uncomfortable. But do not rush to invest heavily in the renovation of a new apartment. Builders say that ideally, a house with a rough finish should stand for at least two winters. Then you can hope that the consequences of the shrinkage of the foundation will go unnoticed by you.

And the actual consequences are the minimum displacement of walls and ceilings. They cannot be determined by eye, but it is quite possible by the deformations of the finish.

The most common weak point is bathroom tiles, which have a “bad habit” of pulling away from the base and cracking in the early years. Other areas of damage depend on the material and compliance with the technology of building a new house. Basically, these are cracks in the tile joints of bathrooms and in the kitchen, backlog of wallpaper, cracking of plaster and paint on walls and ceilings, subsidence of door and window openings, “wavy” parquet or laminate and similar “troubles”.

Features of shrinkage in a panel, brick and monolithic house

The process of shrinkage in houses made of different materials occurs in different ways.

Shrinkage of a panel house

Panel houses are assembled from factory reinforced concrete structures. During their production, tolerances for assembly seams are initially laid down. Shrinkage of a panel house is the longest. Cracks are most often formed along the inter-plate seams. The period of completion of the main shrinkage is 2-3 years. In practice, this stage is sometimes delayed for an indefinite period.

Shrinkage in monolithic-frame buildings

Monolithic-frame houses are a cast concrete seamless structure with brick or panel cladding. The small thickness of walls and floors reduces the total mass of a monolithic house, which reduces the time for foundation shrinkage and evenly distributes the load. With strict observance of construction technology, the period of completion of the main shrinkage is about 1 year, the most minimal.

Shrinkage of a brick house

Since a brick house is heavy, this always dictates special requirements for the foundation, which must withstand a significant load. As in a monolith, in a brick house there are no seams between the panels. If the technology is broken, cracks can appear not only at the corners and joints, but also have a diagonal direction. Shrinkage of a brick house occurs unevenly and can last up to 5-6 years.

From house shrinkage to apartment finishing

In general, for the first time it is better to limit yourself to a democratic "cosmetic" repair.

Well, if you are still starting a repair “from the needle”, turning to the services of professional specialists will help reduce the risks. Experienced craftsmen-finishers know how to minimize the effects of house shrinkage. For example, they may recommend more elastic materials that can withstand minor changes in the geometry of surfaces: non-woven or liquid wallpaper, special plasters, vinyl tiles, stretch ceilings, etc. True, the cost of such a “gutta-percha” finish will cost more.

And one more “but”: no matter how reliable the materials you paid for, an honest contractor, in all honesty, will still not vouch for the quality of the finish in the new building.

Given the timing and consequences of house shrinkage, the purchase of an apartment with a finish from the developer, as a rule, will also require investments in new repairs in a few years. But when the house shrinkage process is over, it will be possible to use more expensive and high-quality finishing materials without fear.

Coordinates of companies offering professional services for the repair and decoration of apartments, offices, you will find in the section of the Catalog of building products and services "Construction and repair"

Sourced from the Internet

www.stroikaural.ru

When buying an apartment in a new building or becoming a happy owner of a private house, you want to start interior decoration as soon as possible so that the housing finally acquires a cozy look and becomes comfortable for living. But experts warn: do not rush and buy finishing materials. Why? Because the building has to go through one more stage - shrinkage. All structures without exception are subject to this process. It is based on the interaction of the physical properties of materials and the environment. That's when the building is settled, the shrinkage of the house will stop, the decoration will justify the money and effort spent. Hurrying, residents risk wasting time and money, because finishing materials can become unusable under the influence of internal deformation of the house structure.

After what period of time it is possible to move from a rough repair to a real, thorough one, you can find out by finding out the features of shrinkage in different types of houses, taking into account the influence of factors. If everything was calculated and done correctly, then shrinkage will take place with little or no effect on the used tiles, wallpaper, laminate. The owners do not have to dismantle the rearing floors and find the tile that has broken off the wall.

For new buildings, shrinkage is a natural process. The foundation and piles must adjust to the weight of the floors and walls. In addition, if the house is an apartment building, then you need to take into account the weight of everything that the tenants bring inside. Developer companies include the time required for the final stabilization of the structure in the project plan. What factors affect the degree of shrinkage of a building? This is a whole list of criteria based on research results:

  • the peculiarity of the soil in the selected area (on solid soils, the process is completed faster than on mobile ones);
  • foundation type;
  • ground water level.

In a new house, the process can stretch for a period of 2 to 6 years. On average, a building adapts in 2-3 years. It should be borne in mind that the greater the weight of the structure, the more difficult the process is. A building made of brick will adapt less well than a structure made of cellular concrete, which has much less weight.

Shrinkage of a brick-monolithic house
What is the shrinkage of a wooden house

When can I start repairing and decorating

The desire to put the living space in order is more than understandable. Rough finish does not add comfort. However, no matter how strong the desire to take on repairs, hold on to emotions and financial resources. Construction experts strongly recommend waiting for at least 2 winter periods. During this time, the active part of the house shrinkage process will pass and further finishing will no longer suffer, or will pass with minimal losses.

In the process of shrinkage, floors and walls are somewhat displaced relative to the original geometric shape. It is impossible to determine these changes by eye, but it is quite enough to deform the finishing materials on the walls, floor and ceiling.

How is it shown? For example, in the kitchen or in the bathroom, ceramic tiles are cracking or moving away. There may be cracks in the tile joints in the same rooms. Wallpaper may lag behind, paint and plaster on the ceiling and walls may crack and crumble. The consequence of shrinkage will be the "excitement" of the laminate and parquet panels. Window and door openings sag.

The conclusion suggests itself: until the process of shrinkage of the building has passed, it is better to spend money exclusively on cosmetic repairs.


Shrinkage can cause cracks in floor tiles

Is it still possible to do a thorough interior decoration? Even experienced master finishers will not give a 100 percent guarantee. If you really want to, then as a way out, experts suggest using materials that have a sufficient degree of elasticity to transfer the changing geometry of surfaces, these include:

  • stretch ceiling;
  • vinyl tiles;
  • non-woven or liquid wallpaper;
  • special plasters with elastic effect.

If the type of building allows a small percentage of deformation, then the materials used in the decoration will be able to adapt to the displacement of surfaces and maintain the quality of the coating. "Gutta-percha" finish will cost more than usual, so before you decide to experiment, you should weigh your options.

When purchasing housing with a finish made by the developer, also get ready to carry out repairs in a few years. However, by that time the active phase of shrinkage will have already been passed, and it will be possible to safely use the materials that you like.


Shrinkage of the foundation can contribute to cracking of the gas silicate masonry

Features of shrinkage in different types of houses

Shrinkage of a house is a change in the geometric parameters of building elements due to the drying of the materials from which they were made. This process must be taken into account when erecting a structure, since it is natural and it is impossible to do without it. With proper calculations, shrinkage will take place harmoniously and without consequences for the structure.

The settlement of a building, which is sometimes confused with shrinkage, on the contrary, is not natural and signals the instability of the soil in the selected area or the weakness of the foundation. Sediment can cause not only cracking of the walls, but even their collapse.

The degree of shrinkage of the building directly depends on the material chosen for the construction. Wooden buildings are considered the most problematic in terms of shrinkage. Concrete, foam blocks and bricks are also subject to this process, but not in such a pronounced form.

House type Main shrinkage period Flow features
Panel 2-3 years
  • based on prefabricated reinforced concrete structures;
  • during construction, tolerances for assembly seams are initially taken into account;
  • the final shrinkage is the longest of all, it can stretch for an indefinite period;
  • most often the formation of cracks along the seams between the tiles.
Monolithic frame 1 year
  • based on a cast seamless concrete structure lined with panels or bricks;
  • the thickness of floors and walls is small - the weight of the structure is less than in other options. The load on the foundation is distributed evenly;
  • subject to construction technologies, the minimum shrinkage period.
Brick From 3-4 to 5-6 years
  • refers to heavy structures, imposes special requirements on the foundation;
  • there are no seams between the panels;
  • if the technology is broken, during shrinkage it gives cracks not only at the joints and corners, but also diagonally on the walls;
  • the shrinkage process is uneven.

Deformations in concrete floor slabs

Panel

Shrinkage of a panel house occurs on average per year. The changes are so noticeable that the rough coating will in no way be able to hide the traces of deformation. It is recommended for the first repair to use coatings that can then be easily dismantled - laminate or linoleum. The main part of the shrinkage can be quite noticeable in relation to the change in the geometry of the planes of the walls, floor and ceiling. The result can be noticeable cracks and distortions in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcorners and tile joints. The plates themselves remain unharmed. Very often, after shrinkage, apartment owners have to think about the need to level the floor. Ideally, of course, it is better to wait with repairs altogether until the active stage of shrinkage has passed. It may not be so comfortable, but the financial losses will be minimal.

Brick

In the production of building materials, the technology includes the so-called shrinkage protection. Therefore, if shrinkage has a significant percentage, this indicates a low quality of the material, or a violation by builders of standards during the construction of a building.

At the production stage, the brick undergoes a drying procedure, due to which the percentage of moisture in the product is reduced to zero. This means that further evaporation, which could lead to shrinkage of the material, is excluded. Concrete does not hold water in itself. In this case, the cause of shrinkage may be freezing during the cold season or improper distribution of the load inside the structure. If the building was erected in the autumn-winter period, there is a high probability that the materials may get wet, and, having been saturated with moisture, freeze. As a result, inside the cracks and pores, moisture turns into ice, which tends to expand. This can lead to the formation of serious external cracks.

Another disadvantage of brick buildings is the large number of seams. These gaps, if the masonry was of insufficient quality, can accumulate moisture inside, which, under the influence of temperature changes, will expand or decrease. The porosity of a brick, in comparison with other types of building materials, is its advantage and disadvantage at the same time. When building brick houses, builders must be very careful to ensure that all gaps are minimal and well-designed. The degree of shrinkage of a brick house compared to a wooden house is minimal, but in terms of duration it will take 3-4 years.


A crack in the ceiling is the first sign of shrinkage in a building.

Monolithic frame

At the heart of a monolithic-frame structure is a supporting frame, made not with the use of welding, but made with the help of vertical columns. This is a solid system in which the frame is assigned the role of a support for the structure as a whole. With this approach to construction, the risk of cracks is minimized.

Shrinkage in monolithic type houses is minimal compared to other types of buildings, since the one-piece structure qualitatively distributes the load on the foundation, due to which shrinkage occurs evenly. For people living in the house, the changes are almost imperceptible, compared with a brick structure. However, there may be soil subsidence under the monolith. A strong frame protects the building from significant deformations in this case. This makes it possible to carry out repair work in a new building almost immediately.

True, if sufficient geological and geodetic studies were not carried out or there were serious violations in construction technology, then even a monolithic structure is capable of showing unusual miracles of shrinkage.


Consequences of shrinkage of a brick-monolithic house

Factors affecting shrinkage

It has already been mentioned earlier that the shrinkage of the foundation of a house is a natural and logical phenomenon. The degree of its severity is influenced by external and internal factors. By taking into account their influence on the structure, undesirable manifestations can be prevented in the future.

External

The group of external factors includes soil mobility - the uneven occurrence of soil layers leads to the fact that the movement under different ends of the building may differ. There are several types of this factor:

  • the depth of soil freezing - it is not the soil itself that actually freezes, but the moisture in it. When it freezes, water causes the soil to shrink, and when it comes time to thaw, it begins to expand. The soil around the foundation swells and begins to squeeze it. With a significant degree of freezing, the foundation lies to a great depth, since it must be laid deeper than the soil freezes through. Accordingly, shrinkage will be longer. In addition, the degree of freezing affects the strength of the foundation, because periodic compression leads to the gradual destruction of the foundation of the house;
  • groundwater depth - moisture has a serious impact on the foundation of the building, but its degree of influence is not the same. The blind area protects the upper part of the foundation from water, but the lower part is located underground. Despite the fact that rainwater also penetrates the soil, the main impact comes from groundwater. Due to the difference in humidity, the foundation may shrink in the lower and upper parts in different ways with respect to time. If groundwater is close to the surface, drain the foundation to reduce the effect of moisture;
    • horizontal - the displacement leads to the slope of the foundation to the sides;
    • vertical - here the movement of the layers is characterized by a shift up or down. The foundation either collapses or is pushed out;
    • mixed mobility can move the base of the building both vertically and horizontally. To reduce mobility and stabilize the soil, the foundation is installed on a foundation pad of crushed stone, sand and concrete;
  • climatic conditions - the territory of our country is characterized by a humid climate, clay and sandy loamy soils, as well as low temperatures. The soil freezes deep, which must be taken into account when building a foundation. Failure to comply with construction technology can lead to serious deformation of the building during shrinkage;
  • season - you should not build a foundation in spring or autumn, when there is a lot of rain and the soil is saturated with moisture. This is especially important with the possibility of further freezing, which will negatively affect the integrity of the foundation.
Scheme for sealing a crack in a brick wall

Internal

  • expansion and contraction of building materials. Due to temperature differences, substances expand or contract. In the case of the foundation of a building, there is an impact from two sides. Temperature affects the foundation itself and the soil in which it is immersed. So that this physical deformation does not harm the structure, expansion joints are made in the foundation;
  • wetting and drying materials. The main process that causes shrinkage is the drying of building materials. When moisture evaporates, the structure of the building becomes lighter, decreases in volume. If the materials are wet, then, on the contrary, swelling occurs, the weight and volume increase. Shrinkage lasts exactly as long as is required for maximum evaporation of moisture, then the materials acquire maximum strength. The speed of the process will directly depend on the air temperature and its humidity;
  • the quality of the materials used - the foundation bears a heavy load, so the materials at its base must meet all the requirements, construction standards. Brands, fractions should be used only those that are prescribed in the regulatory documents. The quality of the building design will depend on the clarity of the technology.

The foundation must stand before the building itself is erected. Otherwise, the shrinkage process will continue under the influence of walls and load-bearing structures. As a result, individual sections will sag, cracks will form on the walls and foundation. If the deformation is too strong, the house may simply collapse.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that house shrinkage is a natural process, but far from always subject to warranty periods. Its course is greatly influenced by internal, external groups of factors, as a result of which the same building technology can give different results. Moreover, in addition to the quality of walls and ceilings, the properties of the foundation and how competently it was executed are very important. Did the builders take into account the type of soil mobility, did they measure the depth of groundwater flow? Has drainage been taken care of for the foundation and how good is the foundation pad? There are many nuances, so in order for the decoration to become a timely event, you should make sure that the house is built in accordance with all applicable standards.

Video

It describes in detail what problems can be encountered during the shrinkage of the building.

Photo with options for problems that may arise during the shrinkage of the building

What threatens the shrinkage of an apartment building.

During daily wear, clothes tend to stretch and change their original shape. Most of all, this worries the female half, who always strives to look perfect and attractive. Therefore, women are always looking for ways to wash things so that they sit down, but at the same time do not lose their color and original qualities.

Regular wear is most reflected in clothes made from natural fabrics and mixed fabrics. It is almost impossible to restore exclusively synthetic fibers of matter after stretching with the help of washing only. Therefore, the effectiveness of the recommendations provided will depend on the type and quality of the fabrics of the product.

Shrinkage of clothes after washing

Washing does not require expensive special detergents and powders. The whole secret of success will depend on the correct temperature contrast and correctly selected detergents for the type and color of the fabric.

Wool and its shrinkage secrets

Knowing the characteristics of wool fibers and the nuances of their washing, you can easily develop tactics so that they sit down.

When working with wool products, there is an important rule: wool does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and requires careful attention.

Before washing, you need to read the washing instructions, study the labels, tags, labels on the product. Find out the manufacturer's specific recommendations for the care of wool. To shrink things, you will have to slightly violate the established rules, but this will have to be done with accuracy and care.

If your favorite sweater, for example, is stretched, then you need to do the following:

  • Soak the item for 30 minutes in water that is 20°C higher than labeled.
  • Perform a rinse in cool water. The greater the shrinkage needed, the higher the liquid temperature difference between washing and rinsing should be.
  • Excess moisture is removed by blotting things with a terry towel. It is not recommended to twist wool products, as you can deform the product and get unpleasant spools.
  • Dry the sweater in a horizontal position, placing it on a dry terry towel and giving it the desired shape.

For proper drying, for example, a woolen hat, there are good recommendations. After washing and rinsing, you need to put a wet hat on a container with a rounded bottom and a smooth surface of the appropriate size (jar, inverted salad bowl, vase, etc.). This manipulation will allow you to shape and achieve the desired size of the headdress.


Using a balloon to dry a wool hat

How to wash a woolen thing in a washing machine so that it sits down? And is it necessary to do it with her help? Only the hostess herself can answer these questions, is she ready for experiments and unpredictable results. After all, it is quite difficult to control the washing process in an automatic machine.

The only recommendation for those who decide to wash wool in the machine will be to select a special mode for such products. The degree of shrinkage of a thing is significantly affected by the level of revolutions of the drum of an automatic machine per minute during the spin cycle. Here you need to be vigilant.

Methods for washing cotton products to achieve their shrinkage

The ability to stretch during wear is most pronounced in cotton clothing. Especially if, before sewing the item, the manufacturer did not process the material in an appropriate way so that the fabric shrinks as much as possible and does not behave unpredictably in the finished product.

There are several ways and recipes for how to wash a thing so that it sits down. Due to the use of temperature differences, it is necessary to choose the right cleaning agent for white and colored items in order to prevent shedding of fabrics.

During machine washing, you need to set the water heating level 20 ° C higher than indicated on the label of the cotton item. Spinning is recommended standard, and if there is a machine-drying function, it must be set to the maximum temperature.


Setting the program on the washing machine

When hand washing, you can immerse the product in boiling water and leave it until the water cools. After that, move the clothes into cold water. After squeezing out excess water, you can spread the item on a towel to dry.

It is important to remember that when putting colored cotton items into boiling water, you need to be extremely careful. Even a short time in hot water can cause fabrics to shed and colors to fade.

You can also use an iron with a built-in steam function to shrink cotton fabrics. To achieve the result, you need to iron the thing with a well-heated iron, using steam.

Impact on denim for shrinkage

How to wash jeans so that they sit down, but at the same time do not lose color? When answering this important question, it must be taken into account that denim contains cotton. Therefore, washing should be done as for cotton items. This rule applies to classic denim trousers. Jeans with added stretch are unlikely to fit even one size.

  • You can safely wash denim in the washing machine, setting the temperature at 40-60 ° C. Temperatures above this may cause discoloration of the fabric.
  • You can dry trousers on heaters, in a dryer, or simply by hanging them in natural conditions. At this time, they should be completely straightened. This will help iron the pants later with minimal effort.

When washing jeans with your hands, you need to soak them first in cold water, and after a quarter of an hour transfer them to hot water. When the water has cooled, you need to wring out the trousers using a terry towel. To ensure that the length of the item is maintained, it must be dried vertically. In this case, only the volume will decrease, and the length will remain unchanged.


Washing jeans by hand in a basin

Reduction of silk products

Silk items are very delicate and can easily lose their attractive appearance. Therefore, they must be treated appropriately.

To achieve a reduction in the size of a silk item, you will have to wash it by hand, since automatic washing of such products is unacceptable. The thing should be lowered into warm water, then dried under normal conditions.

Ways to wash synthetic materials so that they shrink

The easiest way to achieve shrinkage is nylon and polyester products. To achieve a positive result, it is enough to wash them in cold water. Such things are not afraid of drying in a washing machine at high speeds. But if the machine does not have a drying function, then it is necessary to dry it on a battery, or by hanging it in the sun.

Washing will not shrink acrylic, lycra, or spandex items. It is almost impossible to return the original shape to such a stretched product. Only a skilled dressmaker will help out by fitting the thing to the figure, or going to the store for a new thing of the right size.

We hope that we have disclosed in sufficient detail the question of how to wash a thing so that it sits down. Try to implement the above recommendations, but be extremely careful not to ruin your clothes.

Among a simple layman, far from the intricacies of the construction business, there is a widespread misconception that today technology and science make it possible to build houses like hot cakes. In practice, everything is much more complicated. Modern houses, even when using the most advanced building construction technologies, cannot bypass the most difficult and problematic stage - the shrinkage of the structure under its own weight. Therefore, when planning and drawing up design terms for the construction of a structure, it is imperative to lay down a certain time for the house to shrink.

What happens when a building shrinks

For professionals, the period of stabilization of the load-bearing elements is, in fact, a dead season, when, due to shrinkage of the house, finishing can only be done to a very limited extent. Therefore, at this stage, it is much more profitable for a developer company to sell an apartment or a room in a house without finishing, and thereby shift the headache of eliminating the consequences of shrinkage to future homeowners.

Shrinkage of a brick house, as well as a monolithic or timber version, begins from the moment the first meters of walls are erected in height. As the box of the building grows, the pressure on the lower floors, tiers or crowns of the walls increases in arithmetic progression.

As the load on the walls and load-bearing elements increases, several independent processes are intensively developing:

  • Under the weight of the box of the house, the foundation system of the building begins to sag;
  • Seams filled with masonry mortar are sealed;
  • The geometry of the walls changes, so any decoration of the walls, ceiling, floor will be deformed and damaged, with the exception of decorative coatings based on latex, vinyl, non-woven, any stretchy material.

Experts do not recommend using wallpaper and decorative plaster so convenient for decoration for one simple reason. In the process of shrinkage, a crack may form, which will remain hidden on the wall under a layer of decor until the amount of damage reaches a critical size.

Important! The fewer horizontal butt joints in the structure of the house, the faster the process of shrinkage of the building proceeds, and it is easier to plan future finishing.

It is very useful to allow time for a new house to shrink, what does this mean? In fact, a newly built house is a raw material, it becomes strong and stable after the concrete shrinkage process is over, and for a house made of timber, the walls and ceilings will pick up residual moisture, and the micro-slits between the crowns will be compacted. But even after a year of shrinkage, it may be too early to start finishing for the following reasons:

  • The process of foundation settlement under the weight of the building box occurs unevenly;
  • A tilt of the box appears with a change in the horizon of the ceiling or interfloor ceilings;
  • The shrinkage rate does not decrease, new gaps and cracks appear in the walls and inter-wall ceilings.

In fact, a properly calculated house shrinkage process should take place evenly and almost imperceptibly for the structure of the house. In theory, the highest rate of shrinkage processes develops precisely in the first three months after the completion of the main construction work on the construction of the house box. In practice, even experts cannot predict the course of settlement of the foundation, the causes of the appearance and development of cracks, one can only state the completion of the structural settlement associated specifically with the loading of the load-bearing elements of the box.

When you can finish the shrinkage

To a large extent, the shrinkage process depends on the technology and method of building a house. Brick, concrete block, foam materials, walls made of timber and logs used to build a modern house react completely differently to the load. It would be a big mistake to consider stone structures insensitive to shrinkage, and finishing can be started almost the next day after construction is completed, and a house made of timber should stand for at least a year.

Most happy owners of new apartments strive to start decorating an apartment or house as soon as possible. Therefore, the new settlers came up with several home-made methods for determining the end of shrinkage and, accordingly, the optimal start time for finishing:

  • Up to a dozen numbered strips of paper with varying degrees of tension are glued to the corner joints of the walls. By the rate of rupture of the ribbons, the shrinkage of the walls and the rate of divergence of the joints are judged;
  • In the center of the room, a pendulum is suspended from the ceiling, from the ceiling to the floor itself; by the deviation of a small weight, one can judge the presence of a roll of the building box.

Advice! It is difficult to judge how effectively such methods allow you to determine the moment for the start of fine finishing; it would be more rational to officially contact the construction company with a request to inform about the available shrinkage data.

It is the Contractor's responsibility to monitor shrinkage and give an answer on the current state of affairs, which will help to more accurately determine the right moment to start finishing.

Behavior of monolithic and panel structures of houses

In theory, the finishing of a panel house can be started already 3-4 months after the end of construction, provided that the construction of the box is completed in the spring. For "winter" or "autumn" objects, the finishing will have to be postponed for another six months. The most problematic areas in the finishing of panels are the joints between floor slabs and walls.

If the apartment is located in the center of the building, on the first three floors, then finishing can begin even ahead of schedule. For corner rooms and upper floors, the start of finishing will have to be postponed a month or two later than the estimated date.

Before shrinkage is completed, walls can be finished; in a panel house, they have maximum rigidity. First of all, you need to lay a screed with laying waterproofing in living rooms, in the kitchen, in the bathroom and toilet. It is impossible to finish with ceramic tiles, install "tightly" window blocks and interior doors. It is better to postpone this stage of finishing for at least a couple of months.

Advice! In some cases, new settlers finish the walls of the kitchen, bathroom and corridor with wall and floor plastic tiles. This option of wall decoration will tell you better than any indicator what is happening with the house.

For monolithic houses, the start of finishing occurs 3-4 months later, but, unlike panel houses, shrinkage occurs more evenly. Therefore, in order not to risk expensive ceramic tiles due to shrinkage, the walls of the bathroom are initially lined with cheap plastic panels, and cheap laminate is laid instead of parquet.

Problems with brick walls

The process of shrinkage of a brick house lasts longer than for a panel, and faster than for a monolithic house. Brick walls are the heaviest and at the same time the most unstable. If panel and monolithic structures can be given for finishing even without cosmetic operations, it is enough to seal the joints between the plates, then the brick wall is deformed according to a rather complex pattern. It could be:

  1. The appearance of cracks in the corner joints of the walls, cracking of the masonry in the horizontal or diagonal direction. Similar defects in a brick wall are covered with cement mortars with acrylic resin and fiber filler;
  2. Destruction of individual bricks into several fragments or complete destruction of the block with spillage of part of the material. In this case, before finishing, the wall has to be reinforced with a reinforcing mesh and replacing part of the masonry;
  3. Deformation of the plane of the walls by an arc. The easiest way to fix the situation is to finish with a thick layer of plaster or install a false wall from a profile and drywall.

If for three months none of the tiles glued to the wall fell off, then the apartment is finished according to the capital scheme, otherwise the finishing of the brick house should be postponed until the end of shrinkage.

Most of the defects in a brick house occur for two reasons - the poor quality of building materials and improper foundation arrangement. Which means that in the first case, part of the walls and ceilings can be fixed with decorative trim, and in the second case it means that the size of the cracks will grow, and it makes no sense to finish the walls.

Wall decoration of wooden houses

The brightest, one might say, the classic representative of buildings for shrinkage is a house made of timber or logs. For this category of houses, with any options for building a house, the minimum standing period before the start of finishing work is a year or two. The same applies to glued timber material, which, according to many manufacturers, due to the low shrinkage of such building materials, can be subjected to wall decoration within a couple of months after construction is completed.

The main reason wood shrinks is the low contact strength of the wood. Under the pressure of the roof and the truss system, the joints between the logs are crushed, squeezed, come into closer contact, therefore, regardless of the type of timber, wall decoration can be started only after a year, and not earlier. Up to this point, they carry out rough finishing work, install windows with a gap and close all the cracks through which moisture can get inside the house from the timber.

Conclusion

Finishing a new house or apartment according to the capital scheme, even after the end of shrinkage, can be carried out after 4-5 years for brick buildings and houses made of timber. In monolithic and panel houses, major repairs and wall decoration are completed only in the third year of operation of the premises. All repair options in the first year of residence are recommended to be carried out according to a temporary scheme.

During washing and ironing, a reversible elastic deformation of the threads occurs in the structure of the fabric, when the fabric tends to correct the tension that was originally set. There is an increase in the cross section of the threads of the canvas during swelling. This leads to the straightening of the threads of one system (weft or warp), after which the deformation of the threads of another system (warp or weft, respectively) occurs.

Shrinkage depends on the type of fabric fibers: linen, cotton, viscose. From the degree of twisting of the threads, while more threads stretch more due to an increase in their diameter and a change in the structure of the fabric. From the wrong temperature regime when washing and ironing.

List of fabrics subject to shrinkage

Subject to shrinkage of cotton fabrics. Depending on the weave, it varies from 3% to 5%. Plaid and velveteen give the greatest shrinkage. A little less for chintz, teak, satin, calico, cambric, and other cotton fabrics. Linen and linen-containing fabrics shrink up to 6%, as well as blended fabrics. At the same time, the more cotton or linen is contained in the fabric, the greater will be the shrinkage.

After washing, the fabric with elastane shrinks, as the previously stretched elastane compresses it. The fabric can then be stretched again up to 10% of its original length.

Woolen fabrics shrink from 1.5 to 3.5%. This applies to drapes and thin woolen fabrics. According to some reports, wool is subject to shrinkage to a greater extent, up to 5-6%. This deficiency is also observed in semi-woolen fabrics.

The shrinkage of natural silk fabrics is slightly less than that of artificial silk fabrics. The greatest shrinkage is observed in silk crepe fabrics: from natural silk - up to 5%, crepe from artificial silk - up to 7%. Satin silk fabrics can lose 3.5% to 5% of their original length. Staple fabrics and viscose - up to 4%. Nylon fabrics - up to 1.5%, semi-nylon fabrics - up to 3.5%. Shrinkage is provided by gasket materials: interlining, dublirin, adhesive gasket.

Decating fabrics before cutting

Decating is a wet-heat treatment of fabrics for their shrinkage before the product is cut. Decat all fabrics, which include 50 percent or more natural fibers. These are wool, linen, cotton, hemp, silk, as well as artificial silk fabrics. If the product that is planned to be sewn will be washed, decathing is required. If you plan to dry-clean (, suits), it is enough to iron the fabric with.

Lining fabrics are soaked and dried before cutting, carefully leveling, but do not iron.

Cotton and linen fabrics are soaked, dried and ironed slightly damp. Silk is soaked and dried. Don't iron with a hot iron. Silk fabrics that may shed are moistened with a damp sheet, which is wrapped in a silk fabric before ironing. Silk plain fabrics are ironed without steam from the wrong side to avoid stains.

For woolen fabrics, moisturizing is applied from the wrong side with a sprayer. After 8-12 hours when folded, the fabric is ironed from the inside out. It is enough to iron thin woolen and semi-woolen fabrics through a damp cloth.

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