The better to pierce the wall for wiring. Options for stroking walls in a monolithic, brick or panel house: is it possible to strobe without dust

Major or cosmetic repairs in the living room, administrative office are accompanied by a partial / complete replacement of electrical wiring. Often there is a need to install new points, sockets, switches. The reasons are different. The main ones are the simplification of the processes of connecting and operating household appliances, electronic equipment, eliminating the need to place extension cords and splitters.

Ideally, they try to hide the wires inside the walls: in special gates, cable channels (metal / plastic boxes). Chasing the walls for wiring is the first thing to do before installing new wires or replacing an outdated cable.

You can perform gating yourself without the help of professional specialists, but you will have to take into account a number of nuances related to the organization of wiring and the flow of this process. You will also need special equipment.

The order of work and the rules for the location of the gates

The preparatory stage includes drawing up a plan for future cable laying. Follow the following step by step instructions:

  1. Choose the location of the switches, sockets and stationary lights to which the wires will be laid. The latter include ceiling chandeliers, built-in lamps, wall sconces.
  2. Create a wiring diagram: you need to clearly understand where and where the wires supplying electrical installations will go from.
  3. The created scheme should be displayed on the walls and ceiling. A simple pencil or a bright marker will come in handy. Mark the points of location of the devices listed above, draw vertical lines from each, perpendicular to the adjacent plane (or horizontal for ceiling chandeliers and built-in lights).
  4. Distribution boxes must be installed at the points of contact between the lines. Each room must have at least one junction box. All of them are connected in a horizontal plane and connected to the electrical cabinet.
  1. At all points where holes for electrical installation products and wires will be drilled, there should be no other wiring (for example, old). To verify the absence, use a special wiring detector. If there is an electrical line or frame nearby, then move it by making changes to the wiring structural plan.
  2. When everything is transferred to the walls and ceiling, taking into account the adjustments, then you can proceed to the chasing of the walls. To begin with, holes are made for the boxes used to mount sockets and distribution boxes. Then they are connected by strobes (grooves).
  3. When everything is prepared for the installation of wiring, it is necessary to take measurements and transfer them to the plan.

Then you can proceed to the processes of laying and fixing the cable inside the strobe. It will not be superfluous to re-verify the integrity of the product (insulation) before installation. This check is then repeated after the laying is completed. A special megohmmeter or a conventional tester used to ring the cores will do. Then the strobes are sealed with cement mortar and the cable must be re-called by the tester.

Do-it-yourself strobe laying rules

When driving a nail into the wall to place a mirror, shelf or picture, first make sure that there are no hidden wires. If this is done in a new apartment or a relative's house, then it is unlikely that there will be a documentary registration of the wiring with a cable layout. Therefore, certain rules and regulations have been adopted. A professional electrician, looking at the outlet or switch, will mentally determine where the wires that power the device are located. Thanks to this, he will avoid violating the integrity of the wiring when he drives a nail into the wall.

When planning the location of the strobes for the cable, follow simple rules:

  1. The grooves must be located strictly perpendicular to the walls and ceiling - horizontally and vertically. Inclined sections of wiring can be placed exclusively on attic floors, where bevels are installed parallel to the roof. In other cases - strictly across or along the walls.
  2. Place strobes without crossing each other.
  3. When placing the wiring under the ceiling, moving from the corner between the floor slab and the wall, you need to indent 150-200 mm.
  4. The distance from another corner, door and window openings must be at least 100 mm.
  5. The average distance from sewer and water pipes, gas lines is 500 mm.

The average depth of the strobe is 20 mm, and the width directly depends on the number and dimensions of the wires being laid. However, the overall dimension is usually 20-25 mm. Compliance with these rules is a mandatory and sufficient condition for the implementation of high-quality and technically competent wall chasing.

Features of reinforced concrete walls

The rules listed earlier are universal regardless of the materials from which the walls are made. Depending on the structure of the surface, certain features are added. Reinforced concrete products contain reinforcement that absolutely cannot be cut.

The overall dimensions of the future strobe directly depend on the depth of the reinforcement in reinforced concrete blocks. To search for a metal frame, a conventional wire detector is suitable. Rarely, small recesses are made for panel houses, then the wiring is hidden to a greater extent not inside the wall, but under a thick layer of putty (plaster).

The second option is to use the open laying method, fixing cable channels along the walls and ceiling or choosing retro wiring. Chasing reinforced concrete walls is allowed with a special permit issued by the design organization involved in the design of the residential building.

Norms and restrictions when chasing walls for wiring

Do not take the tool in hand and crush the wall before the preparatory procedures are completed. Make sure you don't go overboard with the number of outlets, switches, and other outlets. The presence of each device must be required. Placing ten outlets on one wall "just like that" does not make sense. It is necessary to take into account the material of manufacture of the wall and, accordingly, select the necessary tool.

SNiP 3.05.06-85 contains regulatory documents that are important to consider when distributing cable along walls. Ideally, you need to thoroughly study them so that you do not subsequently engage in repeated repairs.

Key points from the rules:

  1. Horizontal and vertical arrangement of strobes, the absence of oblique lines with small exceptions (for example, in the attic).
  2. Maximum one turn of the strobe connecting the two closest points, since the wire is bent, which leads to a slight overheating. Having two or more hot spots will result in a hazardous situation.
  3. The maximum width of the strobe is 30, the depth is 25-26 mm. The total length of the cable route going through the strobes from the distribution box to one or another point should be no more than 3 m.
  4. The distance from the battery and gas pipes is 400 mm (although we recommend increasing it to a minimum of 500), doors - 100, ceiling and floor - 10 mm.
  5. It is forbidden to gouge internal load-bearing walls. A strobe of the maximum depth indicated above will not have a negative impact on the outer part of the load-bearing wall, but a special permit is required for partitions in the apartment. This issue is especially relevant for panel-type houses. You need to be especially careful when chasing walls on the ground floor of a residential building with two tiers or more, since in addition to the roof, the walls also hold the rest of the structure.

  1. Avoid gating in reinforced concrete structures, which can lead to the destruction of its integrity and loss of strength. If there is an urgent need, then you will have to do with small grooves or use cable channels located on the surface of the wall.
  2. When making strobes on the ceiling, calculate the shortest path to the lighting fixture, and lay it.
  3. It is forbidden to gouge floor coverings. If wiring is required on the floor, then the best solution is to hide the cable in a concrete screed. On the other hand, try to avoid even that: imagine the consequences if a cable in the floor burns out.
  4. It is easier to pierce brick walls, more difficult - concrete. This is where you need to start when choosing a tool.
  5. Protect your airways with a special mask or respirator.

Advice! Chasing is accompanied by strong noise, and due to the fact that the process affects the walls, vibration only enhances this effect. All housemates will hear you, so carry out the process only at the time set for these works (usually from 10 am to 5 pm).

Preparing the walls before chipping

It was written above: before chasing the wall, make sure that there are no wires hidden in it. To do this, you need a special device - a detector. With it, you can find out the exact location of the old cable. This is done to increase safety in order to prevent the working surface of the power tool from getting on a bare live wire. The consequences could be catastrophic.

Lines are indicated on the wall along which the strobes will pass. Moreover, we recommend starting the markup from the distribution box, moving to switches, sockets and other sources. Before you start chasing, close the doorways by squeezing damp rags between the door and the frame. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the house.

Choosing a tool for work

Chasing walls can be done with different tools. This can be a chisel with a hammer, a grinder or a puncher with certain nozzles, or a wall chaser specially designed for this. When operating the last device, you risk incurring serious financial costs, but the grooves made will turn out to be ideal.

The cost of work when using a perforator will be average, while the process itself takes a minimum of time. The grinder is able to create even strobes, but leaves behind a lot of garbage. Finally, the cheapest method involves the use of a hammer and chisel. However, low cost is the only advantage of this approach.

The choice of a particular tool is associated with the individual preferences of the master and the owners of the house, as well as the possibilities. Ideally, this should be a quality tool that allows you to create an even strobe, which will eliminate potential rework.

Chisel and hammer

For a concrete wall, a hammer with a chisel is absolutely useless. This is a very strong material, so the walls will be so strong that they simply cannot be pierced with a hand tool. But for a brick wall, a hammer and a chisel would be almost the best option.

Follow the following workflow:

  1. Mark the recesses by indicating both edges of the future groove.
  2. The chisel should be installed not along, but across the strobe, and then gradually hammered into the wall with a hammer.
  3. The strobe is deepened in layers by 20-25 mm.

After the completion of the gating of the walls, it is necessary to clean the resulting grooves. Cover the surface of the strobe with a special primer. When it dries, wires are laid in the ditch, then you need to hide them under a layer of plaster. It is dangerous to use a chisel and hammer for gouging, as a certain skill is required. You need to independently perform this procedure with modern and professional devices.

Bulgarian (UShM)

Another equally popular tool used for wall chasing is a grinder. There are no special difficulties in the operation of the device. First, prepare a disc with a special diamond coating. Such a canvas is required if the wall is made of concrete. The diamond disc is characterized by high strength and durability, due to which the chasing process proceeds much faster.

First, cut two strips along the wall along the marked lines with a grinder. These slots should be placed parallel to each other at a distance of about 20 mm. But one grinder is not enough: after the slots, you will need to use a perforator to get rid of that part of the wall that is located between them. Then you can immediately lay the wiring in the resulting strobes, and then seal them with plaster.

Advice! The depth of the grooves is selected in such a way that the plastering process does not cause discomfort and inconvenience. By hiding the wire under the finishing layer to a good depth, it will be easier for you to finish the walls.

Drill

Other alternative tools, such as a drill, can be used to gouge walls for wiring. You will have to take a thick drill that is installed in the chuck and drill several holes in one row at a certain distance from each other. The depth of each hole is up to 20 mm, so it will not take much time. For simplified control of the depth of the holes on the drill, you need to stick a strip of colored tape that should not go into the wall. Stop drilling well in advance before the strip reaches the wall.

From the holes arranged in a row, you need to create a solid strobe. For this, a chisel with a hammer or a grinder (angle grinder) is suitable.

Perforator

When operating a perforator for making strobes, maximum savings in financial resources and time are achieved. The preparatory phase is the same regardless of the selected tool, and the implementation of gating is as simple as possible. First, make sure that there is no old cable. If the detector detects a wire, then it should be removed after disconnecting it from the junction box.

Next, the wall is marked: lines indicating the location and direction of the gates between the junction box and sockets. Doors and windows should be curtained, and the gaps between the boxes, door or window leaf should be plugged with a damp cloth.

Using a puncher, drill several holes along the marked area. The distance between each hole must be up to 15 mm. In principle, the process is no different from using a drill, only the hammer drill is a more reliable and powerful tool. Then the puncher is switched to the second mode of operation, used to create a strobe. To do this, the working nozzle changes. In this mode of operation of the perforator, all holes are connected to each other, and a solid ditch is obtained.

Important! Do not attempt to gouge directly without making holes. Such work is within the power of professional and experienced craftsmen, and for beginners it is recommended to make holes.

wall chaser

A common drawback among all the listed tools used for wall chasing is the huge amount of dust that is released during their operation. The layer of dust can reach a large size, due to which you will not be able to completely clean the room even with the use of special equipment. If you want to maintain a high level of cleanliness when performing work, we recommend using a wall chaser - a tool specially designed for such procedures.

Outwardly, the device looks like an ordinary grinder, but it is equipped with special diamond discs. The device works with the help of a casing used to regulate the thickness of the future groove. You also need to monitor the depth of the strobe. The wall chaser is connected to a vacuum cleaner, which draws in all the dust emitted, so that the room will remain clean.

The main disadvantage of the tool is its high cost. If they need to be used once, then it would be inappropriate to buy a new device. The most you can do is to borrow a device from your friend, neighbor, or rent it from a store. You can make a wall chaser from an ordinary grinder, but it will still have some of the shortcomings.

Specific features of gating

How to make strobes in wood

For wooden walls, all of the above tools are suitable, with the exception of a perforator. Instead of a chisel, it is better to use a chisel, but the principle of operation remains the same. Create two parallel cuts at the same distance and remove the wood between them with a chisel. More specific tools can also be used:

  1. A circular saw allows you to make even strobes, but a high skill in using the device is required. The principle is based on repeated passes with a circular saw and the gradual expansion of the cut to the desired width.
  2. A hand-held milling cutter allows you to create a neat groove. To do this, a guide bar is attached to the wall and a tool is led along it, making an even recess. It then expands to the desired width. For such work, a special cutter is often used, but you can handle the usual nozzle that forms the groove.

Thus, there are more tools for chipping wood, as well as opportunities to do it. Ideally, you should choose one of the listed tools, as they are designed for woodworking.

How to make grooves for wiring in aerated concrete

Ideally, a manual aerated concrete wall chaser should be used, as the blocks are easy to work with. The tool is a metal tube with a handle and a protrusion on the other side. It is easy to use and leaves little dust behind. An alternative is to use a circular saw or angle grinder, but good respiratory protection will be needed.

There are certain nuances. Walls made of aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks often contain reinforcement, so the process of their gating requires a special approach. Before making recesses, make sure that your actions will not lead to a decrease in the strength and integrity of the structure.

Chasing brick walls

If you need to lay wiring in a house without finishing on the walls, then they usually do not do gating. Instead, a flat cable is installed on a brick wall, having cores of the required cross section, after which it is hidden under a layer of plaster with a thickness of 30 mm or more. This is enough to hide a 3x2.5 or 3x4 cable. Larger wire is used much less often.

Shtroblenie walls, if it is still required, produce any of the listed tools. The process is identical to creating recesses in concrete walls. However, the brick is softer and better processed.

Chasing drywall

Drywall sheets are very thin, so it is impossible to make strobes in them. Usually the cable is hidden under the fragile structure of the sheet, and the only option may be to drill the holes necessary to install the outlet or seat under the switch. This is done with a perforator.

Strobe in tiled floor

Tiles are often used as decoration in the bathroom or in the kitchen. Often there is a need to make strobes in the wall. And there should be no problems in this regard: the only caveat is the installation of special diamond wheels on a grinder or wall chaser is required. To prevent the formation of cracks in the tile, avoid using a perforator.

Nuances with load-bearing walls

Before performing repairs related to laying new or replacing old electrical wiring, you need to draw up a project. Approval documents will be required, which indicate the location of the load-bearing walls and the possibility of making recesses in them. The resulting plan clearly indicates where, where and how to lay the cable, what width and depth the strobes should be, etc.

If you have doubts about the advisability and admissibility of making a strobe in a load-bearing wall, then try to obtain the appropriate permission from the BTI. The organization involved in the design of the house will provide all the documents and clarify the margin of safety of the building. Permission will be issued in most cases.

Chasing walls for air conditioning

Particularly dimensional gates are required for the installation of standard air conditioners, consisting of indoor and outdoor units. The width of the strobe should be at least 60, the depth - 50 mm. This will hide all copper pipes with insulation materials, wires and corrugation used as a condensate drain.

How to disguise strobes with wiring

Once the strobe is done and the wires are laid, all you have to do is close up the groove and move on to the final finish. The process is quite simple:

  1. The recess is cleaned of dust and dirt with a construction vacuum cleaner or a broom.
  2. The surface of the groove is covered with a layer of soil. This is done with a regular brush.
  3. Wait until the primer is completely cured.
  4. Before embedding, moisten the strobe with water.
  5. Seal the recess with plaster or foam.

In residential apartments, hidden laying of electrical wiring is almost always used, and it is best to implement this method by making strobes. However, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance: prepare in advance by memorizing all the rules and recommendations, renting or taking from your friend the right tool, depending on the material from which the walls are made.

Do not forget that it is far from always possible to make such recesses: for example, do not even try to work with a puncher on walls covered with plasterboard sheets. If in doubt, it is best to contact a professional specialist.

Chasing with a wall chaser

The laying of internal electrical networks along a new route during the period of repair or reconstruction of the premises is not uncommon. There are two wiring methods: open and hidden. The second method is the most common, but at the same time it becomes necessary to make strobes - grooves in which an electrical wire or cable is hidden.

The work on chasing walls can be divided into several stages.

Stage 1 - project development

It makes no sense to start work until the power supply project for the building or premises is in hand. The project documentation contains:

  • electrical cable (or wire) layout plan;
  • installation locations of sockets and switches;
  • the brand and cross-section of the wire (these characteristics affect the width and depth of the strobe).

Looking ahead. A brick wall is chased only with a wall chaser and a grinder, and a concrete wall can be chased using any of the methods described below, but using a chisel and a hammer is the most time-consuming option.

Stage number 2 - study of the requirements of state building codes and regulations

This step can be skipped if there is a project developed by competent specialists. But, since there are enthusiasts who decide to do without the help of a designer, it does not bother them to familiarize themselves with the basic rules for laying electrical wiring:

  • wall ditching can only be done in the horizontal and vertical direction. Laying the wire at an arbitrary angle is prohibited. An exception to this rule are strobes performed indoors with sloping walls. An example of this is the attic;
  • strobe distance should be:
    • from floor slabs (horizontal groove) - no more than 150 mm;
    • from the corners of the room, openings - window and door (vertical groove) - at least 100 mm;
    • from internal gas supply pipes (vertical direction) - at least 400 mm.
  • the geometric dimensions of the section of the strobe (depth and width) depend on the section of the wires and their number per one groove. But these dimensions should not be more than 25 mm;
  • the length of the straight section of the strobe should not exceed 3 m;
  • the furrow route from the junction box to the socket (or switch) should have a minimum of turns. The ideal option is one transition from horizontal to vertical (turns at the junctions of walls and partitions are not taken into account here);
  • horizontal chasing is prohibited:
    • load-bearing structures;
    • seams between panels in panel houses.

Regarding load-bearing structures, there is some exception in the regulatory documents: if the furrow does not exceed three meters in length and the depth is 25 mm (that is, the integrity of the reinforcement of reinforced concrete structures is not violated during gating), then its implementation is allowed.

Stage number 3 - checking the walls for old wiring


Chipping with a perforator

From a safety point of view, it is impossible to drill and beat walls if the location of the existing hidden wiring is not known. It can be detected using special devices:

  • detector for detecting rebar, cavities, wood and hidden wiring. Such a device is not cheap, it is unprofitable to buy it for private repairs. But with this detector you can determine:
    • the place of laying the electrical wire;
    • laying depth;
    • the strength of the current passing through the wire. This indicator also determines whether a power or low-current wire passes in a given place;
  • indicator screwdriver. It can also be used to detect hidden wiring, but this method is less accurate: the result will not be reliable if:
    • the wire is at a depth of more than one and a half centimeters;
    • low-current wires are hidden in the wall (the indicator does not respond to them);
    • the power cable is laid in double insulation.

Stage number 4 - markup


Shtroblenie grinder

There are two ways to mark the wiring route:

  • way 1- marking the line from the switchboard to each room, and from it to the installation sites of electrical accessories (sockets, switches, lamps, etc.);
  • way 2- from the places of installation of electrical accessories to a common highway and further to the switchboard.

Regardless of the marking method, it is first necessary to determine the location of energy consumers (refrigerator, lamps, etc.). Otherwise, you will have to subsequently use extension cords and tees, which is not recommended by manufacturers of household appliances.

Markup order:

  • the place of installation of the switchboard is marked;
  • installation of sockets, lamps and switches is marked.

Thus, the beginnings and ends of the power grid routes are determined. It is convenient to mark straight sections using a marking cord rubbed with a dry dye (blue, charcoal, chalk, etc.): the cord pulled tightly between two points (the beginning and end of the segment) is pulled 300-400 mm from the wall, and then and abruptly let go. As a result of such an action, a straight line will be beaten off on the wall. This operation must be performed by two people.

Short sections can be marked with a pencil (chalk) and a ruler.

Squares, marking compasses and building plumb lines are used to mark turns and corners.

Stage number 5 - chasing the wall

Mark two lines of the edges of the strobe when chasing with a chisel and hammer, otherwise your strobe will be very uneven

The order in which this step is performed depends on the instrument being pulled out. You can ditch the walls with:

  • wall chaser;
  • perforator;
  • grinders;
  • hammer and chisel.

Chasing with a wall chaser

With this tool, you can cut a furrow in a matter of minutes. A wall chaser is a modification of a conventional grinder. It is equipped with two diamond discs and a soleplate for moving along the wall. In order to remove dust, the structure has a branch pipe for connecting a construction vacuum cleaner.

The distance between the discs and the depth of penetration into the wall are adjustable. A wall chaser is the most advanced tool for cutting grooves in walls today, but, unfortunately, it is very expensive, so buying it for one-time work is wasteful.

Chipping with a perforator

  • Holes are drilled along the marking at a distance of 10-20 mm. The puncher at this stage works in the combined mode of impact and drilling. The diameter of the drill is selected according to the width of the strobe.
  • Then the puncher switches to the “Blow” mode, and the drill changes to a special blade (strobe). The nozzle has a curved shape, its end is pointed, and there is a groove along the body. The task of this operation is to remove all jumpers between the holes.

The groove from under the puncher is not quite neat, in addition, large pieces of plaster can fall off at the border of the strobe. It should be noted that the perforator is not suitable for chasing a monolith or slabs made of heavy concrete.

Shtroblenie grinder

  • A diamond blade is installed for working on concrete.
  • Two parallel lines are cut along the markup - the boundaries of the groove.
  • With the help of a perforator, the body of the wall, enclosed between the slots, is knocked out.

With this method, the strobe is obtained much more accurately than when performed with a single puncher. But during the operation of the grinder, a lot of dust is generated. Therefore, it is better to work together: one person works with a grinder, and the second with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Hammer and chisel

  • With the help of these simple tools, recesses are made along the borders of the strobe. The chisel is oriented along the marking line.
  • Having turned the chisel perpendicular to the direction of the route and, placing it between the grooves obtained, gradually knock out the wall body to the desired depth.


Read on for 5 ways to clean up an old brick wall.

- a detailed guide to the preparation of plaster, applying, leveling and working with decorative plaster.

- a popular article with all the details.

This is the most time-consuming and inefficient way of gating. In addition, it is unrealistic to use it on concrete walls. But in other cases, if there is no suitable tool at hand, this method can be applied (especially if it is intended to punch a furrow of small length).

The most popular and common way to conduct electrical wiring is a hidden option. It got its name because of the way cables and wires are laid in grooves made on the wall, ceiling, or floor. The device of the grooves is the process of strobe, the groove itself is called a strobe or a strobe (whoever calls it what). This article will discuss the rules for performing gating, and the tools used in the work.

Chasing solid walls

We can make a strobe - in a concrete, brick or block wall.

Shredding wooden walls

Our specialists are able to work with walls made of all types of materials, including wood.

Execution of work
Full construction;

For free
we arrive at the object;

Fixing the cost;

We conclude an agreement
to work;

Gating rules

Chasing walls for wiring is possible only at right angles and nothing else

Installation of wiring in a strobe is a closed way of laying wires. After laying the wire, as a rule, there remains a space that is sealed up, flush with the wall with a gypsum mixture, for further finishing with finishing materials. As a result, when the repair is already over, and a couple of years have passed, it will be difficult for you to determine exactly where exactly the wires go. If we regard this situation from an aesthetic point of view, then it’s really good when you don’t see any wires, but only flat walls. On the practical side, in the future, when we suppose, we have to drill a hole in the wall, it will be necessary to remember that, somewhere in the thickness of the wall, wires are hidden and a strobe passes. Modern life does not stand still, now in every hardware store you can buy a wiring detector that will show exactly where the wires lie. The wiring is laid by professionals from the Mania Repair company, always goes in predictable places, and is laid in compliance with all the rules and regulations, which we will discuss below.

  • All strobes are made straight strictly horizontally and vertically, if your room has sloping walls, then in this case the strobes are made parallel to the slope.
  • From all kinds of networks, such as pipes through which water flows or gas passes, the grooves must be at least 45 cm away.
  • When installing a strobe under the ceiling, they recede down at least 25 cm. If another branch is required during operation, it is also lowered to the same distance.
  • From the corners - openings, doors and windows retreat at least 15 cm.
  • The dimensions of the strobe depend directly on the thickness and number of cables that must pass through it, usually a groove of 25 * 25 mm is enough in the standard version, provided that the wire passes without a corrugated pipe. If the project provides for the presence of a corrugated pipe or cable channel, the groove must be deepened and expanded to the required size.
  • In reinforced concrete walls at a depth of 4-5 cm, a mesh of metal reinforcing wire passes, it is not recommended to violate its integrity. With a standard groove depth of 25mm, it is almost impossible to get to it.
  • In the event that the wall is leveled, during the repair process it will also be covered with a layer of plaster - of sufficient thickness. Wires can be laid in a corrugated pipe in the thickness of the plaster. It will take much less time than making a strobe.
  • For switches and sockets, the depth of the strobe is increased - this is done so that the wire goes into the socket without problems, which is mounted in a drilled hole in the wall, to fix switches and sockets in it. Even in this case, the metal mesh of reinforcement in the wall must not be broken.

Tools used for wall chasing

There is one old proven method that does not require electricity, but it is very long and labor-intensive - this is a chisel and a hammer. Due to the blows inflicted by the hammer on the chisel, it drives it into the wall, thereby picking off its upper layer. This procedure is repeated until the strobe meets the desired requirements. Power tools are used to make the job easier.

  • The most suitable tool for chasing walls is called a wall chaser. It is equipped with two cutting discs, by adjusting which you can set the parameters of the future shtraba. In one pass, this tool saws through two parallel lines, between them there is a middle of the material from which the wall is made. The middle, in turn, is easy to remove with a perforator and a chisel (special nozzle). There are several advantages to working with a wall chaser - a smooth chisel, the ability to connect a construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust.
  • In second place among the tools is the grinder, unlike the wall chaser, it is equipped with one disk, so it makes only one cut in one pass, which is not very convenient. In addition, working with it is quite dangerous, if the tool breaks, it can lead to serious injury.
  • The puncher closes the top three - its use is justified only together with a grinder or a wall chaser. Using a puncher as the main tool for making grooves in the wall is ineffective, the strobe is curved, and it is very difficult to adjust the depth.

Chasing brick and concrete walls

If we are talking about laying wiring in a new room that has not yet been in operation, most likely the walls will be covered with a layer of plaster. The minimum layer thickness fluctuates around 3-4 cm, this is quite enough to lay the electrical wiring without gating, and cover it with a layer of plaster on top.

If for some reason this method is not suitable, the markings are transferred to the wall according to the scheme, where the strobe will pass and switches with sockets will be mounted. Further, the entire room in which work is performed is de-energized to prevent accidents, and work is carried out according to the markings. Depending on the tool used, 2 parallel grooves are cut, the dimensions are selected depending on the thickness of the wire and the quantity. The core between the two grooves was hollowed out with a perforator.

These procedures are identical for walls made of solid materials such as brick, concrete, and various modern building blocks.

Shtroba in a wooden wall

In principle, all of the above tools are suitable for this work, except for a puncher; instead of it, it is better to use a chisel and a hammer. The theory is the same as when working with concrete - two parallel cuts are made, the core is removed with a chisel. There are two more tools that will help you work with wood:

  • Circular saw - with good skills in working with this tool, all the work can be done only with it. The work is done in several passes, with each new repetition the cut gradually expands to the desired size.
  • Milling installation - for laying neat strobes, use a manual milling cutter. According to the markings, a flat bar is fixed on the wall, and a power tool is driven along it like a guide, gradually expanding and deepening to a strobe.

Can or can't ditch load-bearing walls

Bearing walls can be ditched if necessary. Only the depth of the strobe is limited, up to the thickness of the reinforcing cage, which is located in the concrete load-bearing wall. If the load-bearing wall is made of brick, then there are no restrictions on the depth within reasonable aisles.

In theory, before starting work, a project is being developed that takes into account all the walls, their location, whether they are load-bearing, and the possibility of laying strobes in them. Further, the project is coordinated in the relevant authorities, and only after that work begins.

Safety precautions for wall chasing and work procedure

Wiring work is carried out according to certain rules, which are written in this article above. First, a plan is drawn, it can be drawn both on a regular piece of paper and in special programs for drawing. During its development, all the subtleties and the location of future sockets and switches are carefully thought out.

Then the plan is transferred to the wall, dots mark the places where switches, junction boxes, sockets and chandeliers will be located in the future. Then all the points on the wall are connected into a single system of lines, along which the strobe is laid.

  • If gating occurs in an old room that was in use, those places through which the wiring will pass are examined using a special detector that is able to determine whether there are previously laid routes in these places. Only after completing this procedure, you can start working on the wall chasing.
  • The hole for the installation of switches and sockets is best done with a special nozzle on a puncher called a crown. Crowns come in different diameters, so before starting work, you need to choose the size that suits you.
  • Chasing the walls of the procedure is not only dirty, but also very noisy, all work must be done strictly within the allotted hours, designed for noisy work.
  • If wall chasing occurs in one room, and not in the entire apartment, then before starting work, it is better to hang the doorway with a wet cloth, so it will be possible to avoid the spread of dust and dirt throughout all rooms. All work must be carried out strictly in a respirator, goggles on the eyes and gloves on the hands. In the process of work, a lot of various particles, and small fragments from the walls fly in unpredictable directions, so you should not neglect your own protection measures.
  • The wiring diagram that we talked about earlier should be saved at least until the next repair. If you have to drill or gouge something, after checking the plan, you will clearly know whether it is possible to do work in this place or not.

You can create a strobe, that is, a groove in the wall where electrical cables will be hidden, on your own. However, here it is important to observe not only the rules for conducting the operation in question, but also the general construction legal framework. The article discusses the features of the operation, the tools for its implementation and various methods of work.

How to hide communications in the wall?

Laying new wiring is an integral part of the overhaul. In addition, it often becomes necessary to add new sockets and switches in the room or around the entire perimeter of the housing.

In any of these cases, you can not do without the operation of wall chasing.

What is wall chasing

Wall chasing is the cutting of walls with the help of specialized electrical equipment, for all kinds of needs. One of the most striking examples of a case where such an operation may be needed is wall chasing for the purpose of wiring.

Laying a strobe is intended for laying an electric cable or other communications and objects that need to be hidden. The operation is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust and dirt, and also requires the use of a special tool.

Do-it-yourself wall chasing for electrical wiring

Before you start crumbling the wall, you should plan and draw a diagram of the future wiring, taking into account all related objects: sockets, switches, and so on.

Doing wall chasing with your own hands is a real task for a home master. This operation can be carried out both with the help of special electrical tools and manually.


There are several methods of gating, which will differ depending on the selected tool:

  • Hammer and chisel.
  • Perforator.
  • Bulgarian.
  • Wall chaser.

Each option differs in its level of complexity and the amount of effort and resources expended. In addition, the time spent and the quality of the final result differ. If desired and possible, it is permissible to use other tools.

Is it possible to ditch load-bearing walls in a panel house

Due to the growing number of electrical appliances, many residents of panel houses are looking for ways to hide wiring not under baseboards, but in walls or ceilings.

As a rule, in most panel houses, the walls of the panels are load-bearing and it is forbidden to ditch them. If the wall is not load-bearing, then you should make sure that the work carried out will not upset the balance of load distribution on the walls and ceiling and will not lead to the destruction of the structure.

Before proceeding with the laying of electrical wiring directly within the walls of a panel house, you should first familiarize yourself with the plan of the apartment. Walls that are stiffeners can be ditched, and those that serve as load-bearing walls are strictly prohibited.

Monolithic house

Load-bearing walls in a monolithic house, as a rule, cannot be ditched. This is due to the fact that in case of violation of the integrity of the wall, this can directly affect the structural strength.

brick walls

Due to the fact that the laying of bricks is carried out using a cement-sand mixture, there are no special problems when chasing a brick wall. Using a hammer and a chisel, you can knock out this mixture manually, and the gap formed between the bricks will serve as a groove for the cable. Of course, after all the work has been completed, the groove will be covered with plaster.

In order to maintain the strength properties of the wall, it is recommended to crush the surface of the brick wall only in the horizontal direction according to the seams between the bricks.

Chasing walls for wiring: options, the better

For each individual case, tools, strobe directions and other features may vary. First of all, the choice is influenced by the type of building and walls that are located in the desired room. In addition, the dimensions of the strobe also have an additional effect.

Perforator with a nozzle - a tool for chasing walls


A perforator is used for chasing walls, as a rule, in the case when only one of the rooms is being repaired. This is due to the fact that specific dispersed dust is formed from the wall chaser, which penetrates everywhere and can spoil things and furniture.

For chasing with a puncher, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm along the marked route. The distance between these holes should not exceed one centimeter. After that, a special nozzle for chasing is put on the puncher, and the device is switched to impact mode. Next, you need to punch a strobe between the marked holes.

Bulgarian work

First you need to mark the location of the future location of the cable. After the markup has been completely completed, you can begin to create gutters. With the help of a grinder, this can be done in two ways:

  1. The work is carried out by a grinder, on which a special disk is put on, designed for cutting concrete.
  2. At a distance of five millimeters, two cuts parallel to each other are made. And directly the groove is hollowed out with a perforator.

Drill attachment


A drill can also be useful in solving the problem in question. You will need to use an electric drill, supplying it alternately with a drill, a nozzle with a short drill and a special spatula.

First of all, using a drill or a nozzle with a drill, you should drill holes with a depth of at least 25 mm and at a distance of 10-15 mm from each other. The next step, using a nozzle in the form of a spatula, is the arrangement of the gutter.

Shovel for work

You can knock out a groove of the desired size, according to the markings applied in advance, using a spatula. The blade is directly a nozzle for the perforator, which carries out the formation and deepening of the groove according to the cuts marked in advance.

Among the advantages, one can single out the fact that the recess is formed quickly, and its edges and shape will be even, which will not require additional manipulations. Among the disadvantages is that the use of a spatula can provoke a large amount of dust.

Is it possible to grind without dust?

Those who are interested in the question of whether it is possible to ditch walls without dust can get a positive answer. This becomes possible when using a specialized wall chaser equipped with a powerful vacuum cleaner. The dust that is generated during operation will fall into a special chamber, which prevents its penetration into the surrounding space.

rules


The operation in question is performed according to the rules:

  • Chasing for wiring should be done vertically or horizontally parallel to the main structures of the building.
  • Horizontal chasing should be carried out with a distance of at least 150 mm directly from the floor slabs.
  • The furrow during vertical movement should be 100 mm from doors, windows and corners, and 400 mm from gas pipes.
  • The length of the gate should not exceed three meters, and the width and depth can be no more than 25 mm.
  • It is not recommended to make horizontal grooves in load-bearing structures.

How to quickly gouge under a cable or sockets

The right tool makes it possible to quickly pierce the wall under the cable or outlet. The choice should be made according to the material of a particular wall, its characteristics and location. A quick and convenient option is to use a hammer drill or an impact drill, but in this case, the strobe may turn out to be uneven.

To what depth is it forbidden to ditch in load-bearing walls


In the case when gating is carried out in load-bearing walls, then you should not exceed a depth of 20-30 mm.

At this depth, as a rule, reinforcement is located, the damage of which can not only have catastrophic consequences, but is also a violation of legal norms.

How to make a strobe

Regardless of the chosen option for carrying out the work, the general procedure will be general, and it is presented below:

  • Marking and surface preparation.
  • Carrying out work.
  • The ending.

Is it necessary to carry out work before plastering

After carrying out the work and laying the cable, dust and dirt remain in the ditches, which prevent the quality adhesion of the primer to the wall. Armed with gloves and a wide brush, you should generously close up the unevenness in the wall along its entire length.

How to properly groove a wall for wiring and sockets: the progress and sequence of work

The stages of work will be as follows:

  • Drawing up a plan on paper and drawing contours with markings on the wall.
  • Cleaning and preparation of the work area.
  • Carrying out a work operation.
  • The final step is cleaning.

brick wall


You can easily and quickly make cuts on a brick wall according to the marked lines using a puncher or a grinder.

Concrete partitions

To perform such an action, you will need a puncher, a spatula, and also a drill for concrete.

Options for how to ditch a concrete wall with a perforator without a lot of dust

To avoid the formation of large volumes of dust, before starting work, cover the room with a film and humidify the air. It is also recommended to crush the wall surface according to clearly marked contours.

How long does shredding take

The time of the operation in question directly depends on the chosen method, tool, groove dimensions and the characteristics of the wall material.

The article discusses all aspects affecting the concept of the gating operation, its features and rules for conducting.

Useful video

Many of you in your childhood rested with your grandmother in the village. In almost every collective farm house, electrical wiring was laid overhead: using insulators, at some distance from the wall. The wire was used high-quality, with cloth insulation: it’s not scary to touch.

This method is still used today: in wooden houses and baths, and just like that, “in retro style”.

However, from the point of view of rationality, the laying method is not the most reliable. Firstly, there is a possibility of damage to the wiring by any sharp object. And if there are small children in the house, or pets with strong teeth, the wires turn into a source of danger. Secondly, the aesthetics are, to put it mildly, controversial.

In wooden houses, the problem is solved quite simply: there are special mounting boxes for wiring. Different colors, sizes, with fire protection. But what about in houses with concrete (brick, plaster and other) walls?

Cable laying in strobes

Regardless of the method of wall decoration (drywall, plaster, curly wallpaper ...), the cable, which contains life-threatening voltage, should be hidden in the main wall. During the construction of typical panel houses, electricians did not have a headache at all about wiring. Recesses were organized in the walls in advance: lay the cable, grab it with alabaster, and you can plaster.

What about when building a new house? You can pre-design cable laying routes, and even mount cable channels in brickwork. This is a progressive method that ensures the strength and safety of electrical wiring.

But in reality, the cable is laid after the construction is completed, before the fine finishing of the walls (and often after it). The situation is the same if you bought new furniture, and the closet traditionally covered the outlet.

Another reason to shift the wires: repairs in the apartment. In old houses, the power cables in the walls have an aluminum core. It’s not that it’s completely bad, but given the old age of the wires and the new requirements of the PUE (electrical installation rules), it is better to lay other wires with strong insulation and a copper conductor. And the standard arrangement of sockets-switches, to put it mildly, is far from perfect.

The purchase of powerful electrical appliances, such as a boiler, air conditioner, electric stove, requires a power line to be connected.

So, do-it-yourself wall chasing for wiring - how realistic is it?

Important! Laying the cable to the depth of the plaster is unacceptable. Fire safety requirements are violated (when the wiring ignites, paper wallpapers can “take up”), and the likelihood of damage from the outside increases. Only inside the wall.

Proper wiring in strobes

Security Notes:


If desired, you can lay the cable in the corrugation. This will make it possible to replace the wiring without opening the wall.

Ways of chasing walls


Homemade dust collector for grinder

Of course, there are ready-made devices on sale that turn your angle grinder into an effective wall chaser. That's just the cost of such nozzles is approaching the price of the angle grinder itself.

Again, the decision is made based on the amount of work to be done.

However, there is no reason to be upset. A homemade dust collector can be made literally from construction debris.

A few scraps of laminate, a piece of plastic sewer pipe, and a household vacuum cleaner (preferably a cyclone type).

You can even adjust the wheels, the scope for creativity is not limited. In addition to the main purpose, the nozzle (even if homemade) increases the safety of work. Modern cutting discs no longer scatter to the sides, as they used to. And they don't break often. But the stones flying out from under the grinder can injure the operator.

With a dust collector, chasing will be comfortable and safe.

Cable laying and installation of junction boxes (sockets, switches)

We figured out how to properly ditch the walls for wiring: of course, it all starts with the correct markings.

Tip: when marking the places for installing boxes, try to take out the lines as far as possible. After chasing, all your hole center markings will disappear.

Now consider how to properly lay the cable.

After the strobe is formed, it is cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. Then, with a gloved hand, or by applying a thin rail, the uniformity of the depth and the absence of protruding parts in the strobe cavity are checked. This is important: if the wire sticks out above the wall, security will be compromised in this place.

It makes no sense to install boxes in advance if the walls are to be finished (thickness will change). Therefore, the wires are laid first, but before entering the niches for the boxes, 10-15 cm of cable free play remains, without putty. For installation, leave 15-20 cm of wire. You can’t save money, if something goes wrong, you will have to do the installation again.

The wire itself can be fixed traditionally, using asbestos (gypsum), or fixed with special clips inside the strobe.

Then putty is made to the level of the wall. At the same time, the free running of the cable in front of the installation site of the boxes is maintained.

Tip: before laying the cable, mark the ends (where you came from, where to connect), especially if several wires are put into the box. When laying several cables in one strobe, they are laid in parallel, and not on top of each other. It is not allowed to twist one wire around another.

Before final grooving, draw a laying plan, with accurate measurements in relation to the corners.

This will avoid problems when drilling walls in the future.

Important! All work related to the supply of voltage to the cables is carried out only after the putty (plaster) has completely dried. Before applying the top coat, also wait for the putty to dry completely in the strobes.

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