Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. How to independently make a stove from a gas cylinder that works on wood? Wood burning gas stove

With the onset of cold weather, a caring car owner is looking for an opportunity to warm up his "iron horse". Being left without a vehicle due to low temperatures is an unpleasant pleasure. In a room intended for parking a car, there should be a stable temperature all year round. Otherwise, the equipment may simply rust. Today we will talk about how to make a garage oven from a gas cylinder.

Features, types and functionality

There are several ways to achieve an optimal climate in a car box - from elementary thermal insulation in the walls, ceiling, roof and floor to summing up the central and natural heating system. The average option in terms of labor intensity and budget will be an autonomous heater - a stove from a used gas cylinder.

Particularly handy car owners have long thought over the design of such furnaces to the smallest detail. In itself, the idea of this garage heating is not new, but it has a number of features that are detailed below.

Garage heaters made from gas (usually propane) cylinders are much more economical and functional than other home-made stoves. Their main advantage is that they are convenient for thermal decomposition of fuel. The elongated shape of the gas cylinder is optimal, therefore it meets the basic requirements of the furnace without additional alterations. Only two holes are enough - for the access of oxygen and the release of carbon dioxide into the chimney.

Such "potbelly stoves", as a rule, are divided into two types - vertical and horizontal. You can combine them if you wish.

Advantages and disadvantages

The positive aspects of homemade stoves include:

excellent thermal conductivity (it is provided by the thick metal walls of the cylinder);
convenient dimensions (can be made to the size of your garage);
ease of manufacture and maintenance;
availability of consumables and fuel.

Among the few shortcomings, one can single out only the ability to use a limited number of fuels (firewood, coal, fuel briquettes), and with a vertical design, there is also the need to adjust the size of the logs to the length of the furnace.

Design features and principle of operation

The “potbelly stove” does not have any special design differences from its relatives in terms of solid fuel. It consists of three departments:

directly fireboxes with a grate (fuel burns in it);
blew (provides oxygen access and a place for ash);
chimney.

To make the operation of the stove convenient and safe, the firebox and blower are equipped with doors with a bolt. These additional design elements improve ignition, reduce the risk of embers and spontaneous combustion, and by adjusting the size of the gap in the door, you can reduce or increase the intensity of oxygen supply to the furnace.

Doors can be absolutely any shape. It is only important to take into account the standard size of the logs, as well as the convenience of their installation.

An important element of a home-made stove from a gas cylinder is a grate. Its function is to hold firewood, as well as convenient sifting of loose pyrolysis elements. Firewood is burning on the grate. Therefore, the material from which the grate will be made must be as strong and heat resistant as possible. Reinforcement with a diameter of more than 10 mm is ideal for manufacturing. The rods are connected by welding.

You can install a potbelly stove where there are no problems with the convenience of bringing the chimney pipe to the street. For fire safety purposes, it is better to surround the adjacent wooden walls with sheets of metal so that there is no fire when heated. This type of stove heats the room very quickly, so they are convenient in emergency situations that require instant heating.

Materials for manufacturing

In addition to a propane cylinder (it is better to choose an all-metal cylinder of fifty liters and three decimeter diameter - this volume is enough for waste-free pyrolysis), you will definitely need corner-stands as legs, a grate for a grate, steel sheets (4 mm), a door and a chimney of optimal length . Of the necessary tools you will need to purchase:

grinder;
welding;
scissors for metal;
Screwdriver Set;
perforator.

Action algorithm

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the furnace, provide yourself with all the accessories necessary for safe operation. When working with a grinder, be sure to use protection. Create drawings with your own hands.

First, it is worth unscrewing the rim with a tap, which are placed on top of the cylinder. If it does not lend itself, you can try to gently knock out with a hammer.
For stability and safety of work, pour water into the cylinder, or bury it halfway into the soil. So, you will provide yourself with comfortable working conditions and completely free the cylinder from the accumulated gas.

At the top, it is necessary to cut a hole according to the size of the future stove door.
Weld the frame for the door from metal corners, and then attach it to the front wall of the cylinder.
Attach the door to the frame in exactly the position in which it will be convenient for you to open it when the stove is fired. Drill holes for the bolts in the corners of the door. Screw the door to the frame.

Decide on the hole for the grate and the size of the blower. Cut a hole in the bottom for the grate. Weld the grate.
Place walls made of steel sheets on the slot on three sides (it will look like a box without a lid). Weld it at the bottom of the cylinder, placing the open part to the door - so you can remove the ash without any problems. Make sure the box is without holes. Tightness will provide excellent traction.

Do not forget about the metal damper, which will dose portions of oxygen used during combustion.

A potbelly stove is a small home-made metal stove that became widespread in the first half of the 20th century. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, its popularity fell. The second wave of its mass use fell on the years of the Great Patriotic War, and the third - in the 90s of the same century, for heating summer cottages. Today, potbelly stoves are more often used in garages or utility rooms. In their pure form, without alterations, they are uneconomical: they “eat” fuel like bourgeois, and you stop “feeding” them, they quickly cool down. The easiest option to manufacture is a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. The body is already ready, you just need to cut out holes for laying fuel and an ash pan, and attach doors to them, weld legs and a chimney (diameter 150 mm and no less).

The cylinder in such a stove can be placed vertically or horizontally. It warms up quickly, but it also cools down immediately after the fuel stops burning. Nevertheless, in order to quickly bring a garage or cottage out of sub-zero temperatures or to heat it in autumn / spring bad weather, this is a great option.

What bottle to take for the stove?

It is clear that a gas cylinder will go for the hull. But they are available in different sizes. The smallest ones of 5 liters should not be used for the manufacture of furnaces: the volumes are too small and it cannot heat anything. There are also cylinders for 12 and 27 liters. They will make a low-power unit for a very small room: more than 3 and 7 kilowatts of heat cannot be obtained from them. In principle, this can be a hiking option, but the weight will turn out to be solid.

The best option for a stationary potbelly stove in the garage or in the country is a 50 liter gas cylinder. Height 850 mm, diameter - 300 mm. The volume and wall thickness are large enough to burn any fuel. At the same time, it is not very heavy, you can work with it alone. A potbelly stove made from a 50 liter propane tank is the best option.

Industrial 40-liter gas tanks have about the same volume, the diameter is smaller - 250 mm, the height is greater, and the walls are thicker. A stove from a freon cylinder, with the same power that can be obtained from it, will be more difficult to make: the mass is large, and it is long. By shortening the height to about 700 mm, you can make a small thick-walled potbelly stove, which will warm up a little longer, but it will also be a little better to “keep” the heat.

Important! When working with gas cylinders, observe safety precautions!

How to safely disassemble a gas cylinder: see safety precautions in this video.

From what and how to make doors

Doors for potbelly stoves can be bought cast. You will need a small height for the blower and a larger one for laying fuel. There are ready-made blocks - a flow door with a blower in one design. In this case, a frame welded to size from the corners is welded into the hole cut to size, casting is already bolted to it. In order not to blow out of the slots, a small rim is welded along the perimeter of the cutout under the door - a 1-2 cm strip of metal.

You can not buy doors, but use a cut-out piece of the balloon wall. Then you will need some loops or replacement parts. It is clear with loops: mark places, weld. There is such an interesting version of homemade loops: several links of a thick chain.

A latch will need to be welded to such a door.

With grates or without?

In the simplest version, no grates are provided. If the balloon is small, or stands horizontally, then it is problematic to select a part inside. In this case, the design of a potbelly stove from a cylinder is quite simple: a body placed on legs, one door, a pipe for connecting a chimney is welded in the upper part. All. The whole oven.

The photo above shows examples of such simple furnaces. In them, to improve heat transfer, metal strips are welded to the body from the outside. In the upper part, in addition to the smoke pipe, there is one more outlet - a cover is installed on it, and this outlet is used as a stove for cooking, heating tea.

If you still want to make grates in a potbelly stove from a horizontally installed cylinder, you will have to weld the ash tray from below. Below there is a drawing and a photo of practical implementation.

In vertical versions of a potbelly stove from a cylinder, grates are most often installed. In this case, the place is easier to allocate. Usually bars of thick reinforcement are welded inside: it is difficult to find a cast-iron grate of a suitable size. But this option is bad because the fittings quickly burn out, and the repair is difficult: remove the old fittings, weld a new one. You can weld pieces of a thick corner or reinforcement inside (as in the photo), separately weld the grate from the reinforcement and lay them on the corners.

This video talks about how to make a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands - the grate is made of fittings.

We improve heat dissipation

The biggest problem of bourgeois women: inefficient use of heat. Most of it literally flies into the flue gas pipe. This disadvantage is effectively combated in upper combustion furnaces with afterburning of flue gases by type (also, by the way, can be made from a gas cylinder) and.

A variant of a potbelly stove made of propane cylinders with secondary afterburning - the efficiency is higher than that of "ordinary" models.

Another way to improve heat dissipation is to make the chimney longer, thereby increasing the amount of heat that will remain in the room. When designing such a broken chimney, it is better to avoid horizontal sections, and even more so sections with a negative slope.

This gas-fired stove is wood-fired. Increased heat transfer by making a long broken chimney

Another option to use the heat of flue gases is to weld a vertical cylinder-flue pipe to a horizontally located cylinder-case. Due to the larger area, the heat transfer will be higher. It will only be necessary to create good traction so that the smoke does not go into the room.

You can do it the way they do in sauna stoves: put a net around a metal pipe into which stones are poured. They will take heat from the pipe, and then give it to the room. But. First, until the stones heat up, the air will warm up slowly. Secondly, not all stones are suitable, but only round ones, which are along the rivers. Moreover, uniformly colored without inclusions. Others cannot be covered: they can explode from high temperatures no worse than a fragmentation projectile, or emit radon, which is very harmful in significant concentrations.

But such a solution also has advantages: firstly, the pipe will not burn. Stones emit even heat. Secondly, after the stove goes out, they will maintain the temperature in the room.

Often you need to quickly heat the room. To do this, you can use a conventional fan that will blow around the body and / or pipe of the furnace. But the same idea can be carried out with a stationary version: weld through pipes into the potbelly stove cylinder in the upper part. On the one hand, attach a fan to them (heat-resistant, preferably with several speeds, so that it is possible to regulate the temperature).

Another option that allows you to achieve active air movement along the walls of the case and not use a fan at the same time: make a casing around the case at a distance of 2-3 cm, but not solid, but with holes at the bottom and top. Metal sauna stoves work according to this principle.

One of the options for such a casing around a horizontally located cylinder is visible in the photo below. Through the gaps that are below, cold air is sucked in, located near the floor. Passing along the red-hot body, it heats up, and exits from above.

The principle is not new, but it is no less effective. What the finished stove looks like with such a casing, see the photo below.

Here is another implemented casing, around a potbelly stove from a horizontally located cylinder. Pay attention to the non-standard fastening of the door.

A home-made boiler from a gas cylinder for water heating can be made according to the same principle: weld a water jacket around the cylinder, and connect it to radiators. Just do not forget that the system must have an expansion tank with a volume of 10% of the total displacement.

You now know how to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder and how to improve it. Watch another video about an interesting variant of a combined stove for a summer residence or a garage made of bricks and a gas cylinder.

One of the easiest and cheapest ways to heat a summer house or garage is wood-fired heating, for which home-made long-burning potbelly stoves are used. These are primitive metal furnaces with some refinement to improve the efficiency of solid fuel combustion. In this article we will tell you how you can make such a potbelly stove with your own hands from a gas cylinder, as well as properly install it and connect the chimney.

Scheme and principle of operation of a potbelly stove

The history of these heating units goes back to the beginning of the last century, when they used to heat rooms in houses and even apartments. Such popularity is explained by the primitive design of the stove and ease of manufacture. But the same simplicity negatively affects the efficiency of its work, because the efficiency of a traditional potbelly stove is unlikely to exceed 45%. Therefore, today it is used mainly for periodic heating of cottages and garages.

Initially, the heater was a metal case with a door for laying firewood and a blower at one end, and a chimney was welded to the back. There was no grate, the fuel burned right on the bottom (bottom). At the same time, the lion's share of the heat left the room through the chimney, since the hot combustion products got there directly from the firebox. To understand the device and the principle of operation of such a potbelly stove, it is worth studying the following diagram:

As you can see, hot flue gases containing a large amount of heat immediately leave the furnace body and are not used to heat the room. Later, the design was finalized by unknown craftsmen in order to take away this heat, as a result of which the following types of wood-burning bourgeoisie appeared:

furnace with grate and smoke circulation;
long-burning heater, where the process of burning firewood occurs from top to bottom.

Note. For additional heat extraction from the chimney, a samovar-type water heat exchanger was installed on it, which will be discussed later.

The 2-way wood burning stove shown below has a grate and 2 baffles that cause the flue gases to make a winding path inside the casing before escaping outside. Due to this, the potbelly stove becomes more economical, since the combustion products have time to exchange heat with the surrounding air through the metal walls of the unit.

There is also a variant of a round stove with one smoke cycle, where the afterburning of pyrolysis gases takes place. This potbelly stove is designed for burning sawdust and small wood waste. Here there is a double-walled structure and the lower location of the chimney, since the gases must go from the firebox from top to bottom in order to give off heat. The principle of operation of such a home-made potbelly stove is shown in the diagram:

Another design, where solid fuel is burned from top to bottom, is not so economical, but it works much longer from one tab. Firewood is set on fire here and burns from above, pressed by a load with a pipe through which air enters. How such a long-burning potbelly stove functions is shown in the diagram:

For reference. In the people, this unit is called nothing more than the Bubafonya oven.

The topic of making various wood-burning potbelly stoves from gas cylinders is very popular and that's why. Firstly, it is an affordable material that can be found at any scrap metal collection point. Secondly, such a tank is the actual finished furnace body with fairly thick walls. It remains only to refine it on your own and you will get an excellent potbelly stove for heating a garage or a summer house. Moreover, the design can be both vertical and horizontal.

Advice. Most of all, a standard propane tank with a capacity of at least 50 liters is suitable for making a homemade heater. Using tanks of a smaller volume will not give the desired effect, the stove will turn out to be heavy, and the heat exchange surface area will be small.

A do-it-yourself vertical potbelly stove from a cylinder is more compact and takes up little space in the room. But the firewood in it will not burn for a long time, no matter how you limit the air flow, since the flame will cover the entire volume of fuel.

Another thing is a horizontal stove, in which the flame moves from beginning to end, gradually burning wood. But there is more work with it, you need to arrange an ash chamber outside, because inside it will take up too much usable volume. The device of this potbelly stove is shown in the drawing:

Now about how to make a horizontal potbelly stove at home. To do this, you need to carefully cut off the top of the cylinder with a grinder, where the gas valve is screwed. Naturally, the valve must first be unscrewed, and the container filled to the top with water in order to displace all propane vapor that could remain inside the tank.

Otherwise, you risk setting off an explosion, the consequences of which are unpredictable. Then the sequence of actions is as follows:

cut a strip in the side wall where the ash chamber will be welded. Another option is to drill a lot of holes, as you can see in the photo below.
make and weld an ash pan from metal 2-3 mm thick to the cylinder. Put a homemade door or damper in front to regulate the air supply;
in front of the end should be embedded loading door. It can be made in a round or square shape, or you can purchase a finished product;
in the back, you need to cut a hole for the chimney channel. You shouldn’t make it too big, it’s enough to take a chimney diameter of 100 mm, a maximum of 150;
weld a pipe;
make a stand from any metal-roll at hand and also weld it to the body.

A vertical-type furnace from a cylinder is a little easier to make. To make such a potbelly stove with your own hands, you need to cut openings for doors in the side wall, and the cut pieces of metal themselves can act as flaps. You just need to attach loops to them, for example, from several links of a thick chain, as is done in the photo:

But with the grate you have to tinker. Not only do you need to make a grate (preferably from rebar), it also needs to be somehow installed inside the cylinder. Here you have to cut off its top or bottom part - at your discretion.

After the installation of the grate, the cut off part should be welded in place, and a branch pipe should be attached on top to remove the combustion products.

Note. Instead of a cut off hemisphere, it is easier to put a flat cover made of iron sheet. However, the pipe does not have to be mounted on top. It can also be embedded into the wall of the potbelly stove in the upper part.

About upper burning potbelly stove

To make this type of stove, you need to assemble its inner part - a load with a pipe for air supply. It should be round in shape with such a diameter that it fits freely inside the cylinder. Usually it is a thick sheet metal (at least 10 mm) with a hole in the middle where the pipe is welded. On the underside, for better air distribution in the combustion chamber, the potbelly stoves attach several ribs, this is clearly shown in the photo:

As in the previous version, you should cut off the upper part of the cylinder and make a hole in the middle of it for the passage of the pipe. In order for the future lid to close tightly, it must be scalded around with a steel strip. The chimney pipe cuts into the side, in the upper part of the furnace body. How to make a potbelly stove for long burning, where the process goes from top to bottom, is described in detail in the video:

How to make a chimney for a potbelly stove

For the stable operation of this kind of home-made stoves, it is important to provide good traction. To do this, the cut of the chimney of a potbelly stove made from a cylinder must be at a height of at least 4 m above the level of the grate. When the flue is connected to the side, the minimum length of the horizontal section must be 400 mm, and at the bottom of the vertical part it is necessary to organize a condensate drain, as shown in the figure:

At the same time, it is desirable to take measures for the efficient extraction of heat from the flue. There are 2 proven ways to do this:

install the horizontal section of the chimney from the potbelly stove at an inclination of 30-45 °, running it along the wall. After that, the channel turns up and goes out into the street;

a purchased or home-made samovar-type water heat exchanger is installed on the chimney.

The pipe leaving the potbelly stove at an angle and passing through the entire room will have time to transfer a significant amount of heat to the internal air, which will increase the overall efficiency of the stove and reduce the consumption of firewood. In turn, a chimney with a water circuit will allow you to put 2-3 small radiators in the country and provide them with heat. The device is quite simple to manufacture: a water jacket with two nozzles is made on the gas duct section.

Advice. Circulation in the water circuit, mounted on the chimney of the potbelly stove, is best provided forcibly, using a circulation pump.

Conclusion

For heating cottages, garages and greenhouses, it is difficult to find a more profitable option than a home-made wood-burning stove from a gas cylinder. Compared to electricity and gas, it is much cheaper to burn wood, even taking into account the low efficiency of these units. In addition, the efficiency of the potbelly stove can be increased if the removal of combustion products and heat extraction are properly organized.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is designed to heat a house, garage, bathhouse or any other room. This budget option will help you spend the cold winter warm and cozy if you do not have a portable or stationary stove.

What can you make a stove out of?

Such a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder on wood or on a working out can be made in a short time. Indeed, for the construction, you can use almost any of the gas cylinders that you or your neighbors have. A potbelly stove for a garage or apartment can be made from almost any cylindrical metal object. For example, from a can, pan, barrel, bucket, pipe or shell from the time of the war.

But the best thing for its manufacture is an ordinary gas cylinder. This is the most common and easily accessible container made of thick, high-quality metal today. Thickness is important, because a thin wall will quickly burn out, and the oven will have to be thrown out.

In order not to encounter surprises during the manufacturing process, do not immediately undertake to implement the option you saw on the Internet. Calculate it first and see how easy it will be to execute.

Principle of operation

In order for your horizontal wood-fired gas cylinder stove to work normally, you need to build it on the principle of a conventional wood-burning stove. Here is a drawing of such a standard variant built using this method:

In this version, there are two compartments, between which a lattice of refractory material (metal) is reinforced. Firewood is laid on it and set on fire. As they burn, soot is formed, which is poured through the grate into the lower section.

For complete combustion of fuel in a confined space, a constant supply of oxygen from the air is needed, which is provided by the blower. It has special holes for this. But you can also provide oxygen by simply opening the door from time to time.

Smoke exits through the chimney - an equally important part of the furnace. If it is done illiterately and of poor quality, then all the smoke can remain in the room, and the heat will leave through the pipe. You will have to spend a lot of fuel to kindle the furnace, and the efficiency of such a unit will be very low.

The basic principle of operation of a potbelly stove from gas cylinders is as follows:

The blower provides the supply of gas (air) for combustion into the furnace.
In the furnace, complete or partial (depending on the quality of manufacture) combustion of fuel (peat, firewood, coal) takes place.
The chimney removes various particles of unburned fuel, and with them carbon monoxide, to the outside.
To ensure continuous combustion, the process is adjusted using a special damper (throttle) and a view mounted in the chimney.

How to make a heater from gas cylinders

Never use oxygen, acetylene or fire extinguisher cylinders. Processing (cutting) of such containers is dangerous. A small part of the gas may remain in them, which, when cut out with a welding device, can ignite and explode when combined with air.

The stove is made from a durable gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters (“red”), designed for propane or its mixture with butane (propane-butane). These gas cylinders are used both in industry and in everyday life.

How to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder? Consider sequentially the manufacturing processes of our device.

Preparation of a gas cylinder for the installation of a potbelly stove in it.

The process of making a potbelly stove from the above-described container begins with the preliminary preparation of the corresponding cylinder:

First you need to get rid of the remaining gas. Just open the valve completely.
After the end of hissing (for complete certainty), the gas cylinder can be slightly heated on a fire or stove.
To eliminate a specific "fragrant" additive to propane - a mercaptan fragrance (odorant), it is necessary to completely (to the very "shoulders") fill the container with bleach, which contains acids. It might even be Persol.
Then wait a bit and pour.
After that, soak the insides with a solution of table soda (10%).

What is needed to build

To build our heating unit, you need to prepare the following materials:

3 mm sheet of metal to make an ash pan and (if it is supposed to cook on an oven) a hob;
pipe (you can buy ready-made);
fittings or corner for the grate and legs;
doors (if any).

If there is no last element, it is made from a piece of metal.

The tools needed are:

welding machine for 200A;
Bulgarian (UShM);
welding electrodes;
a hammer;
meter, pencil;
chisel;
roulette;
pliers;
drill, necessary drills;
metal brush;

Which design to choose

A home-made version of a potbelly stove from a container, as already mentioned above, can be horizontal or vertical. It is easy to adapt the hob to it.

The second option (vertical) is installed in a natural position on a stand in the form of a ring with the valve up. It is more difficult to make it, but it has much more traction. Since it occupies a small space, it is often used by motorists for a metal or concrete garage.

The first stands on legs, its valve looks to the side. Make it much faster, and it is advisable to use only in medium and large rooms. Therefore, it all depends on the room where the potbelly stove with a chimney should be placed and on your preferences.

Building a horizontal heater

This potbelly stove is performed like this:

The top with a valve hole is cut off from the gas cylinder.

The grate is made directly in the wall of our heater by drilling it.

Sometimes this knot is done differently. Inside the container (on the walls), corners are welded for laying the grate. If it burns out, it will be easier to pull it out.

The legs are attached (boiled or screwed) to the remaining container. Housing made of sheet material and corners, for collecting soot - welded from below.

A round hole is cut in the wall of the container at the very bottom to insert the chimney pipe.

A hole is welded onto the “collar” of a 5 cm strip. Its inner diameter must be equal to the outer diameter of the pipe.

The door shown in the figure assumes that a cut top with a hole made, an annular belt and a round damper are attached to the hinges.

Another version of the door is shown at the beginning of this section. Instead of a cut off top, a sheet with a welded fitting (for a blower) and a hole for a door is welded onto a gas cylinder. It is strengthened, as usual, on hinges. The valve on the fitting must be of ball design.

At the end, insert the pipe (always with a knee) into the chimney hole:

Making a vertical potbelly stove

Such a design will take up less space, it is convenient to move it from place to place.

Such an oven is started as follows:

A valve is cut out, and the hole (under the pipe) is expanded to 10 cm.
Weld on it, as in the horizontal version - a "collar".
Measure from the bottom up 5 cm and cut a hole for the blower.
At a distance of 5 cm, a hole in the door is cut out.
Between the cut holes (inside the tank) a grill or corners are welded for its installation.
The doors of the blower and firebox are hung on hinges and latches are screwed to them.

Chimney installation

Before cutting a hole for a pipe, find out what kind of pipes you have. After all, the dimensions of standard smoke outlets start from 7 centimeters. Industrial enterprises produce pipes for various chimneys. You can buy any elbows and straight sections required for the construction of a chimney. You can even buy such products from artisans.

The illustration above shows the correct arrangement of the chimney parts. Don't make a straight pipe. This will affect the quality of heating and your pocket.

"Underwater rocks"

The chimney is one of the main components of any furnace. It must be located in such a way that it has sufficient free access.

Due to the incorrect arrangement of elements, it is possible:

smoke in the room;
poor traction;
frequent blockages in the chimney;
too much traction.

Smoke occurs due to:

wrong angle of the pipe when exiting;
the absence of an anti-wind nozzle at its end or low draft, which happens due to a blockage in the chimney;
its small length.

Too much draft is due to the wrong angle of the pipes, and the entry of a large amount of air into the furnace from the blower. All this will lead to a very rapid combustion of your fuel reserves and the devastation of your wallet (after all, you have to buy new firewood or coal). Also, increased draft leads to a rise in heat inside the furnace, and as a result, rapid wear (burnout) of the grate and other parts of the heater.

To eliminate the causes described above, you should disassemble and inspect all elements for contamination. If everything is normal, you need to try to build up the pipe to raise the thrust. If the draft is large, try not to open the blower. If the thrust returns to normal, then you have cut too large a hole. This can be corrected by simply welding part of the hole with a strip of metal.

With the onset of cold weather, many people think about how to better insulate their home and make it more comfortable for wintering. In addition to the basic thermal insulation work with walls, roofs and floors, you can create an additional source of heat - a gas cylinder stove. The practice of designing such devices dates back decades, and during this time many schemes and methods have been invented for creating functional furnaces from simple gas cylinders. In this article we will talk about the most popular of them.

Home-made stoves from gas cylinders are significantly superior in terms of economy and efficiency to similar designs from other improvised materials. This is due to the very shape of the cylinder - it is ideal for pyrolysis processes. The quality of the furnace depends on its furnace. As practice shows, the ideal shape for the furnace compartment is a sphere. Plus, it should have two holes: for the entry of oxygen and the removal of gases and smoke into the chimney. The elongated cylinder of the gas cylinder allows you to meet all the necessary requirements for a perfect firebox without significant deformations.

Types of ovens

An old cylinder, aimlessly gathering dust for years somewhere in a barn, can serve as the basis for creating a stove for a home. And the great thing is that the matter is not limited to any one variety - you can choose the design to your taste. Each type of furnace from a gas cylinder differs in the degree of assembly complexity, efficiency and principle of operation. So, the most popular option is the familiar potbelly stove. We will talk about its advantages, disadvantages and installation method a little later.

A mining furnace is also popular, since the cost of used oil is very small and allows you to save on fuel. It is possible to build a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, but it is better for beginners to start with something simpler, since such a design is very complex and requires a lot of time and labor. The photo below shows a diagram of such a rocket stove and how it looks in the interior.

The basic rule when assembling a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands is to keep financial investments to a minimum. It is also important to ensure the convenience and safety of using the structure, especially if it will be located in a residential building.

Cylinder selection

Not any gas cylinder is suitable for making a stove. First of all, it should be all-metal, since explosion-proof composite products do not differ in heat resistance. The capacity of the cylinder also plays a role - an effective stove is unlikely to turn out from a small 5-liter flask. Such a cylinder can only be used to create a fuel tank for a liquid fuel stove. From cylinders with a volume of 12 liters and 27 liters, furnaces with a capacity of 2-3 kW and 5-7 kW, respectively, will be obtained.

But, the best option for building a quality stove that can heat a small private house is a 50-liter cylinder 30 cm in diameter and 85 cm in height. Its volume is quite enough for almost waste-free combustion of any type of fuel. In addition, such cylinders are still in demand and a serviceable product can be bought quite inexpensively. The technologies for assembling furnaces, described below, provide for the use of just such cylinders.

Useful advice: If you come across a cylinder with a valve, then it is better to choose it for the stove, and not a product with a valve. With the help of a valve, it is convenient to regulate the burning power of the furnace, supplying more or less oxygen to the combustion chamber.

It is also worth mentioning the cylinders for industrial gases with a volume of 40 liters. It is better not to use them to create ovens, because they are too narrow, heavy and bulky. Some make camping stoves from small industrial bottles of 2-10 liters, but they are only suitable if you drive a car on hikes - the products weigh too much.

Potbelly stove from a balloon

As we have already said, the potbelly stove is considered the most popular stove that can be assembled from a cylinder. For its manufacture, a small cylinder of 12 liters or 27 liters is suitable, but you can also take a 50-liter container if you plan to heat a country house. A potbelly stove is suitable for heating a small room, for example, a country house, garage or workshop. If you have built a new country house, but did not have time to install heating communications before the cold weather, the potbelly stove will be your salvation for the winter.

The device of a potbelly stove from a cylinder is quite simple: a firebox with a grate, a blower and a chimney. You can put it in any room from which it is convenient to bring the chimney out. The design is compact and safe. It warms up very quickly and immediately gives off heat to the room. Some build a hob on top of the stove to cook food or heat water.

However, bourgeois women have one serious minus - no matter how thick the metal of the furnace walls is, it burns out over time. And the more often you use the stove, the faster this will happen. For this reason, it is better to make such a stove as a temporary or backup source of heat, for example, in emergency situations or for additional heating.

On the video - a stove from a gas cylinder for heating a garage:

The video material above shows a stove made of two gas cylinders, but one is enough to create an effective design. In addition to the cylinder, you will need steel corners (furnace legs), a metal grate for the grate, sheet steel 3-4 mm thick, a door and a chimney of the required length. From the tools you will need a grinder, a welding machine, metal shears, a hammer, a screwdriver and a puncher with a set of metal drills.

How to make a stove from a gas cylinder:

Unscrew the rim with a tap located at the top of the cylinder. If you can't unscrew it, you can gently knock it out with a hammer.
Fill the cylinder with cold water or immerse it halfway into a hole in the ground.
In the upper part, make a hole the size of the door of the future oven.
Using a welding machine, make a frame for the door from steel corners and attach it to the cylinder.
Attach the door to the frame in the position in which it will be fixed, and make holes for the bolts in the corners. Screw the door to the frame.
Where the bottom of the stove will be, cut a hole for the grate and weld the grate.
Attach sheet steel sidewalls to the cut hole on 3 sides. As a result, you should get a box without a top. Weld it to the bottom of the cylinder, turning the open side to the door - through this passage you will remove the ash. It is important that the box is completely sealed.
Install a metal damper to regulate oxygen entering the furnace.
Weld legs from steel corners to the bottom of the cylinder.
On the wall opposite the door, cut a hole in accordance with the diameter of the chimney pipe. Equip an elbowed chimney, then the heat will not leave the stove so quickly.

Furnace in production

It is a little more difficult to make a furnace for working out from a gas cylinder than a potbelly stove, but this work is quite feasible even for beginner self-taught stove-makers. If everything is done according to the instructions, you will get a very effective device that can quickly heat a garage, a small country house or a change house.

The principle of operation of the furnace during mining is as follows: you pour oil into the fuel compartment and set it on fire, air is dosed through the air throttle, which affects the intensity of combustion. The heat of combustion of oxygen here is mainly spent on evaporation - the vapors rush up and enter the reactor with perforated walls. Fresh air enters through the holes, which only enhances the burning of oil vapors, as a result of which the temperature rises, and the pyrolysis process begins. Not only oil burns, but also steam, so there is practically no waste from the operation of such a furnace. In the upper part of the pyrolysis compartment, the gases practically burn out and exit into the afterburning chamber, which consists of two compartments: in the first, pyrolysis fumes that maintain the temperature burn out, in the second, due to high temperature and lack of oxygen, nitric oxide gases decompose into oxygen and nitrogen. Oxygen supports the afterburning of gases, and the temperature of the furnace is stably maintained at about the same level.

The outlet to the chimney from the afterburner should be located as far as possible from the partition - about 20 cm. The efficiency of such a furnace is about 80%, which is one of the highest rates among home-made heating devices.

As a rule, 50 l cylinders are used for the manufacture of waste oil furnaces. They are sawn in a ratio of 2:1 - a smaller part goes to create a reservoir, and a large part goes to the afterburner. The result is a furnace with a power of up to 30 kW. However, due to the specific fuel, all possible security measures should be taken - burning mining can do a lot of trouble. Do not install this oven in a residential area and prevent access to it by children and pets.

Long burning furnace

To make a long-burning furnace from a gas cylinder, you will need a large capacity of 50 liters. Any wood product can be used as fuel, ranging from sawdust to old furniture and garden tree branches. Since the fuel in such furnaces burns in a thin layer at the very surface, they are also called long surface burning stoves. The pyrolysis process can be carried out in two ways: in a separate small chamber with subsequent combustion of gases in the afterburner chamber (separate combustion furnaces), or the gases will pass into a capacious heated buffer compartment, where they will burn out (combined furnaces). To ensure the highest possible efficiency in both the first and second cases, it is recommended to heat the air that enters the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya oven

The long-burning stove with the funny name Bubafonya is very popular among summer residents and stove-makers. In this design, the pyrolysis process is concentrated under a special pressure. The image below shows a diagram of such a furnace, based on which you can understand the principle of its design and operation.

The efficiency of Bubafoni can be 85% or more, while the duration of heat transfer from a single fuel load is 18-24 hours. If you need to constantly monitor an ordinary potbelly stove, otherwise you risk freezing, then you can visit Bubafonya only once a day, which is very convenient. Humidity of fuel for the furnace should be no more than 12%. In the process of burning, you can add more firewood or wood chips, but it is highly recommended not to stop the stove until the fuel is completely burned.

Important: For the manufacture of the Bubafoni oven, it is necessary to use a 50 l cylinder with a diameter of 30 cm, since it provides the minimum allowable volume.

Such an oven turns out to be very economical, despite the fact that you can make it at home:

Useful advice: It is best to make the chimney prefabricated, and start collecting it not from the stove, but from the back side - from the roof (then it will be more convenient to disassemble it for maintenance and repair). Many people prefer to install a glass with a revision so as not to disassemble the chimney to remove soot.