Simple cultivation of caliberchoa from seeds or cuttings. Cuttings of Calibrachoa as a way of winter preservation of plants

– interesting plant, which not so long ago appeared in the homes of florists. It is easy to confuse it with petunia, which has long settled in many apartments. In fact, until the 90s, calibrachoa was considered a variety of petunia, but then it was proved that at the genetic level it is a completely different plant.

A lot of time has passed since then, but to this day, many do not recognize the new name and simply classify calibrachoa as a petunia. This article will introduce you to this marvelous plant and will allow you to highlight enough of the differences and advantages that caliberchoa has over petunia.

The difference between calibrachoa and petunia

Often unlucky sellers of calibrachoa are called "surfinia" or " ampelous petunia". This is done to attract buyers who are already familiar with petunia or surfinia. Sometimes it is very difficult to tell if it is a caliberchoa or another plant, so look at the main differences:

1. We look at the pharynx at the base of the corolla. If it is dyed yellow, so it's Calibrachoa. Any other color is fake.
2. Leaf size – best distinction. In true caliberchoa, the leaves are very small, about 1 cm wide and no more than 4 cm long.
3. lignified stem. Calibrachoa has a denser stem, unlike petunias.

Did you know? The genus Calibrachoa was established as early as 1825, but the most valuable species were introduced only in 1990, when it turned out that 4 chromosomes in DNA separate Calibrachoa from Petunias.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Calibrachoa

Growing caliberchoa is not troublesome. If you prepare good soil for the plant and choose the right planting site, then in the future the plant will not "act up" or get sick.

Location and lighting

It is necessary to arrange the plant so that the sun's rays fall on it, and at the same time it does not suffer from drafts and the north wind. Calibrachoa does not like the midday sun, so try to shade the plant when it is at its zenith. If you do not do this, then sensitive leaves may burn.

The wind not only greatly cools the ground and roots, but can also break shoots or knock down flowers. Thus, if you live on the top floor of a high-rise building, then it is better not to place Calibrachoa on an open balcony. Find a place where there is a minimum of wind and a maximum of morning and evening sun.

Soil: composition and fertilizer

When choosing soil, you should pay attention only to fertility. The flower loves loamy or sandy soils more, but other humus-rich substrates are also suitable. The composition of the soil should include peat, humus, soddy soil and sand. The soil should be light, loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH.

The volume of pots for calibrachoa should be at least three liters to make the plant feel comfortable. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to put drainage in the form of expanded clay or small pebbles. Make sure that in the event of an overflow, moisture quickly leaves the soil into the pot pan.

Important! Calibrachoa reacts negatively to the introduction fresh manure, therefore, if you want to enrich the soil before planting, use humus or complex fertilizer.

How to Care for Calibrachoa for Profuse Blooms

Every housewife wants to see her plant healthy and blooming. Wherein a large number of flowers and long flowering bring extraordinary pleasure.

Just a few tricks and simple steps will allow you to get a blooming "waterfall" on the balcony.

Watering and spraying plants

Immediately draw a broad line between watering and spraying, as a moisture-sensitive flower simply loves humidified air. If the room is hot and stuffy, then calibrachoa should be sprayed 3-4 times a day. The main thing is not to spray the root area to protect the flower from decay.

Water the plant so that the soil is slightly moist. Calibrachoa will accept dry soil much better than waterlogged soil.

Important! Watering and spraying should be carried out when the sun's rays do not fall on the plant.

Flower dressing

Calibrachoa is very fond of top dressing, which must be applied regularly in order to achieve good flowering. As part of complex fertilizers should be phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Fertilizers should be applied at least once a week.

During the planting period, it is necessary to give caliberhoa more nitrogen, but during flowering, add more phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

Important! If the plant is stunted, then it should be fed with a stimulant.

If there are difficulties in choosing the right mineral fertilizer, take the complex that is used for petunias, as in terms of feeding plants love the same thing.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The spreading flower needs to be trimmed from time to time to keep aesthetic appearance and rid the plant of diseased shoots.

First pruning carried out immediately after flowering. As soon as the first flowers begin to fade, cut them off to give additional strength to the plant to bookmark the next buds.

Subsequent pruning and pinching do in the middle of summer: all shoots are shortened by half in order to achieve greater branching of the plant. Also remove diseased or dry shoots and leaves.

Do not be afraid to cut a little more, the plant will not suffer from this in any way. On the pruned shoots, buds will begin to appear en masse, which will further contribute to abundant flowering.

Did you know? Calibrachoa comes from the Solanaceae family, which includes the well-known tomato, eggplant and capsicum.

Wintering (rest period) Calibrachoa

Although Calibrachoa is considered a perennial, after a dormant period, the plant seems to lose strength and begins to bloom poorly. Wintering of calibrachoa begins after the last bud has withered (or a week after that).

In order for the plant to feel comfortable during the dormant period, it must be kept at a temperature of + 10-12 ˚С, occasionally moistening the ground. Most often, this time is used to obtain cuttings and plant a new plant to replace the old one.

Reproduction of calibrachoa

Many housewives are interested in which method of breeding caliberhoa is the easiest. The plant can be propagated by both seeds and cuttings from an existing plant.

cuttings

Cuttings of calibrachoa carried out during the dormant period (so as not to injure or weaken the plant), when the flower is sleeping, and the metabolism at the cellular level slows down several times.

However, this does not affect the quality of the cutting, so you can cut the shoots for cuttings in late summer or early autumn. We cut off the tops of shoots 5-6 cm long, on which there are at least 4 leaves. We cut off the bottom sheets, leaving two or three top ones, which should be shortened by half.

Pick up a light substrate enriched with peat, and plant an escape in it, plunging ¼ of the cutting into the soil. After that, you need to create greenhouse conditions for the young plant. This is done with the help of a can or film, which covers the flowerpot.

Under the "cap" creates its own microclimate with high humidity, which promotes rooting. You can also use special preparations that accelerate the germination process.

Important! Cuttings after cutting should be immediately planted in the ground, since after 2 hours their rooting ability is reduced to almost zero.

From the moment of planting, create favorable conditions for the plant: a temperature of 20 ˚С, sunlight (except midday), protection from drafts and sudden changes in temperature. Do not forget to remove the shelter once a day and ventilate the plant so that it does not "suffocate".

Moisten the soil no more than twice a day, using a spray bottle, while the soil should not be very wet. After two weeks, the cuttings should germinate, and there is no longer a need for a "greenhouse".

It should be noted that until the roots reach a length of 1.5-2 cm, young plants cannot be transplanted. The roots are too weak and easy to break.

After a small “house”, calibrachoa is transplanted into flowerpots with a diameter of 5-6 cm. If you want to get a very bushy flower, pinch the shoot above the fifth leaf. A month later, adult plants are determined in pots with diameters of 10-14 cm.

Interestingly, the cut top from a rooted cutting (after pinching) can also be used to plant a new plant.

seeds

Growing Calibrachoa from Seeds possible, but poses some difficulties. The thing is that the plant that grows from the seed may not be at all like the parent.

Sometimes it even turned out that a "wild" grew up, which did not bloom well, and the buds themselves were very small. Therefore, caliberhoa try to propagate vegetatively. If you still decide to grow caliberchoa from seeds, then be patient and follow the instructions.

Calibrachoa seeds can be obtained from the bolls that form after flowering. Then take peat tablets, soak them in water and spread the seeds on their surface.

For seed germination, a constant temperature of + 18-20 ˚С and a mini-greenhouse (covered with a film, jar or plastic cup) are needed.

Next, you need to take care of the lighting. Place a table lamp near the seeds and turn it on for 15-16 hours a day. Lighting is turned off at night. After a week, the seeds will begin to sprout. If this does not happen, wait another 2-3 days.

After germination, ventilate the sprouts and gradually accustom them to sunlight (just don't overdo it). If the seeds grow and there are no visible deviations, then after 4 days the shelter can be removed.

Next, we are waiting for the formation of the first leaves. After removing the "greenhouse", the peat tablet is moistened with water with a small amount of potassium permanganate. As soon as the first leaf has hatched, it is watered with water with the addition of vitamin B 12 (1 ampoule per 300 ml).

Carefully look after the young plant, alternating warm purified water, top dressing with vitamin and ready-made complex top dressing (¼ of the norm of an adult plant is applied).

If you notice that the roots have begun to bulge through the mesh of the tablet, transfer the caliberchoa seedlings to a small glass without separating the roots from the tablet. Add special complex soil and slightly shorten the top of the plant.

The first month, keep the plant warm, water gently and do not leave it in the sun for a long time.

It is important to understand that if you plant germinated seeds in a plastic cup, then the excess water will have nowhere to go, and it can lead to root rot. Also, take care of the young plant from drafts and strong winds, fertilize on time and monitor the general condition.

Important! If you buy breeding seeds, then there is a better chance that the plants will turn out as the manufacturer stated.

When to sow caliberchoa is up to you. Seeds are well stored and do not lose viability over time.

Wherein better landing in early spring to enjoy beautiful blooms in summer.

Calibrachoa resistance to diseases and pests

At proper care and timely fertilization, caliberhoa does not get sick and is very rarely affected by pests. However, if the plant has a painful appearance, blooms poorly or dries, then you need to urgently identify the cause and start treatment.

A flower with improper care is affected by the following diseases:

• root rot;
• blackleg;
• powdery mildew;
• chlorosis.

In addition to diseases, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow, dry or twist.

Let's start with root rot, which is represented by a microscopic fungus. It occurs with excessive watering or in very heavy soils that do not pass moisture well. Also, root rot can be brought with the earth, if you took it in the garden.

This disease affects root system that rots and dies. The plant becomes lethargic, loses color and does not hold well in the substrate. If you delay the treatment, then the caliberchoa will die.

This disease is treated only with fungicides.. The problem is that root rot has many varieties, and you need to choose a specific fungicide.

Due to the complexity and duration of treatment, the diseased plant is simply disposed of along with the infected soil. by the most the best option in the early stages there will be cuttings of caliberchoa, however this should be done at a time when the shoots are still strong and have leaves on them.

Important! The black leg does not affect sprouted cuttings.

represents a huge mushroom mycelium, which covers the leaves, coloring them in White color. Causes of the disease: sudden changes in temperature and humidity, an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers after pruning or pinching.

Diseased leaves stop growing, become lethargic and die. If you do not stop the spread of the fungus in time, then you risk losing the flower.

Fighting at home is better with biofungicides, which are environmentally friendly. The best representatives are Fitosporin-M and Alirin-B. We strongly do not recommend using fungicides at home, as they are very toxic to humans.

A disease like chlorosis caused by a microscopic fungus. The causes of infection are varied: lack of iron, waterlogging of the soil, insect vectors and dirty tools. The plant loses its usual color, becomes pale and blooms very poorly.

You can see an example of chlorosis-affected calibrachoa flowers in the photo below.

To cure chlorosis, you need use the profile drug "Antichlorosin". However, before use, just try to feed the plant and prune dry shoots, water the soil, or, conversely, dry it.

- an ambiguous disease that can be caused by many factors. Not always treatment with drugs will come in handy.

In addition to diseases, dry or twisted leaves may appear due to a lack of any substances. So, if the leaves turn yellow in caliberchoa, this is an occasion to check the temperature in the room, fertilize (if you have not done this before), or water the plant less often. Dry and curled leaves are the consequences of poor lighting or dry air.

168 times already
helped

For some time now, calibrachoa has become a permanent inhabitant of balconies and flower beds of amateur gardeners. And every year its popularity only increases. This plant is very similar to petunias. Until the end of the last century, it was even referred to as petunias, until scientists found that genetically these two plants are completely different. However, this fact is not known to everyone. Some novice growers mistakenly mistake Calibrachoa for Petunia. However, the plant has a number of differences by which it can be established its affiliation.

Calibrachoa - cultivation and care

You can determine if you really have a calibrachoa by the following signs.

1. According to the pharynx located at the base of the corolla. In caliberchoa it should be yellow.
2. The size of the leaves. The leaves of caliberchoa are small (4 cm) and narrow (1 cm).
3. By stem. The plant has a stronger stem with a woody structure.

On a note! Calibrachoa can be planted both in a flower bed and in boxes or tubs. But the ornamental plant will look best if planted in hanging structures.

Depending on the shape of the flower, the variety of this ornamental plant are divided into two groups. Flowers can be either simple or double. The first caliberchoa were lilac shade, but now a huge number of varieties with flowers of a wide variety of colors have been bred. Consider the most common varieties.

Cabaret

Varieties of this group include 12 positions. Among them, most of all plants with white flowers, but there are also options for other shades. Planters with such calibrachoa in their own way appearance resembles a ball strewn with a huge number of snow-white bells.

Important! If you do not cut the branches, then they can grow more than a meter in length. But it is still desirable to give the flower bed a beautiful shape with the help of garden shears. It is from these colors that landscape designers construct the now so popular living arches.

This is one of the very first experiments of breeders to develop new species of calibrachoa. The result is a group of cultivars with deep blue flowers. Plants of this species do not reach even half a meter in height, and the seeds are distinguished by good germination. But if you collect them from the parent plant, then the young bush will turn out to be larger and with purple flowers.

small plant with double flowers. The branches grow up to 70 cm long. Flowers of various pink shades reach a diameter of 4 cm. There are fewer flowers on a bush of this caliberhoa than on flowerbeds of non-double varieties. However, the beauty of the flower itself justifies this slight lag in quantity. bright foliage dilutes the composition with greenery. In general, a flowerpot with such a caliberchoa looks interesting in its own way.

On a note! Such hybrids have their own advantage in reproduction. Their cuttings are doing great. Roots appear literally two days after the cutting is placed in water.

noah

Includes 6 different color variations. Among them are white and light purple varieties. Compositions of these plants look especially elegant and romantic. The flowers are two-colored. The hue in the centers of flowers and on the longitudinal stripes located on the petals differs from the main tone. Branches reach a length of 0.5 m.

The plant requires care and attention. But at the same time it grows well in slightly shaded places and withstands slight dampness. It is preferable to plant it as an annual plant, because on next year after wintering, it will not bloom well.

Important! When caring for a plant, it is important not to overdo it with watering, and it must also be fed and sprayed.

Wells

This series consists of 8 types of caliberchoa. The shade of flowers up to 3.5 cm in diameter can vary from yellow to burgundy. If you do not cut the branches, then they grow up to one meter. The leaves of these plants are present in small quantities.

Bells varieties begin to bloom in May. A luxurious scattering of bells is not afraid of hail and rain. Fluctuations in weather conditions are well tolerated. In the composition with white petunias, these caliberchoas make a very attractive duo.

Calibrachoa breeding methods

The most common breeding methods are cuttings and growing from seeds. Cuttings will require more strength to produce strong plants from them. However, the seeds are not so simple. Unfortunately, often adult calibrachoa grown from seeds disappoint gardeners.

The most likely outcome of seed breeding is a flower that looks completely different than the mother plant. The new bush is smaller, and flowering does not differ in the expected splendor. Breeding by cuttings gives much more pleasant results.

Table. Breeding caliberhoa cuttings step by step.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	To obtain a cutting, cut off the top of a caliberchoa branch (about 5 cm).
	At the base of the cutting, pinch off a couple of lower leaves.
	It is advisable to put it in a glass of water within an hour after the cutting has been cut from the parent plant.
	After that, the stalk must be transplanted into the ground. First, use a tissue to remove excess moisture from its foundation.
	Then the base of the cutting is recommended to be treated with Kornevin.
	A recess in the ground for the cutting can be done with a toothpick.
	Root the cutting in the ground or a peat tablet, immersing it to the first leaves. As a soil, you can take a universal soil for indoor flowers.
	Install the soil with cuttings in a mini-greenhouse, and then irrigate with water using a spray gun.
	Cover the greenhouse with a transparent lid or film. Before rooting, the container should be under the phytolamp at a temperature of about + 20 ° C. Periodically, the cover of the greenhouse must be opened for ventilation.

Roots should be expected within two weeks.

Care of the cuttings after rooting consists in spraying with moisture up to two times during the day. It is important to ensure that the soil does not dry out, but it is not too wet. When mold appears, reduce the amount of watering and spraying. Transplant the sprouts into pots with a diameter of 5 cm when the roots reach 2 cm.

Video - Calibrachoa propagation using seeds

Features of caring for calibrachoa

When the caliberhoa seedlings reach the desired size, they are transplanted into pots, which are hung to decorate the garden, alley or house facade. It is recommended to wait until May before taking the pots with the plant outside.

On a note! These flowers are very fond of lighted and warm places. It is also desirable to protect the plant from drafts and strong winds. Therefore, caliberchoa is often kept as a houseplant.

A plant that has reached enough large sizes, you must provide enough free space. It should be planted in well-drained soil. An adult caliberchoa requires 3 kg of loose soil, to which compost or humus must be added.

Attention! For the formation beautiful bush, which will delight with long flowering, plants need to be pinched, as well as dried flowers should be removed in a timely manner.

Calibrachoa - the dream of flower growers

Proper care of caliberchoa involves following three principles:

• regular watering;
• maintaining the shape of the bush;
• fertilization.

Lighting

It is advisable to place flowerpots with bells where the plant will receive enough sunlight. With a lack of light, caliberchoa will not bloom. Plants love garden areas, balconies and terraces facing south or southeast. It does not tolerate extreme heat. If in the summer in July the flower is under the scorching rays of the sun, it may dry out. At this time, it is better to transfer it to places protected from direct sunlight.

top dressing

During the period of active growth, caliberchoa needs regular feeding, which must be done no more than once a week. Fertilizer formulations saturated with phosphorus and potassium are suitable for a flowering plant.

Watering

Watering should be done very carefully. It is important not to allow an excess of moisture. Excessively damp soil can cause root rot.

In this case, the plant needs frequent spraying, especially in dry, hot weather. The procedure is required to be performed up to 4 times a day. In this case, it should be remembered that under direct sunlight, drops of water can lead to a burn of leaves and petals. Therefore, in such circumstances, spraying is undesirable.

Susceptibility to diseases and pests

Regular feeding and proper care will prevent the occurrence of diseases. strong flower rarely attacked by pests. If the plant began to take on an unhealthy appearance, and its flowering decreased, it is necessary to find out the cause and begin to eliminate it.

Calibrachoa, if the rules of care are not followed, can be susceptible to the following diseases:

• powdery mildew;
• leg black;
• chlorosis;
• root rot.

Fungicides can help control these diseases.

• spider mite, which sucks the nutrients contained in the branches and leaves from the plant, which reduces its immunity;
• aphid, the defeat of which brings the flower to complete withering;
• thrips- the larvae of this pest live on the foliage, devouring it, because of which the bush loses its attractiveness;
• whitefly, whose larvae and butterflies suck the juices out of the plant, which inhibits its development.

Calibrachoa - very showy plant requiring attention and care. Subject to all the rules of care, it will thank the gardener with luxurious scatterings of multi-colored bells, which will become worthy decoration any garden.

Cutting is one of the most commonly practiced methods vegetative propagation plants.
Cuttings can successfully propagate many types of garden and domestic plants.

Young plants obtained by rooting cuttings develop relatively quickly and bloom soon. For example: it takes about 2.5-3 months to start flowering. And a petunia stalk, rooted from a flowering plant in the warm season, forms buds in two weeks.

Rooting cuttings is resorted to in cases where:
- I want to propagate my favorite plant;
- the plant dies, but you can still cut off a healthy cutting from it and keep this species or variety;
- it's a pity to throw away cut branches after the formation of bushes - they can be rooted and, for example, presented to your beloved friend.

I will tell you about my experience of cutting garden flowers using the example of my caliberhoa and petunias.

Preparing Calibrachoa and Petunia Cuttings for Rooting

With a variety of colors of numerous flowers, simple or double, they are very popular with flower growers and do not need a special introduction.

Calibrachoa - continuously blooming ampelous plant, intended for cultivation in, balcony and, in high.
Calibrachoa flowers are very similar in shape to petunia, but they are much smaller - only 2-3 cm in diameter. This is by no means a disadvantage of the plant, because on each lash of caliberchoa a huge number of them bloom! Not without reason, the most famous variety series of calibrachoa is called “Million Bells” (“Million Bells”). Compared to petunias, caliberchoa are more cold-resistant and practically not susceptible to disease.
Calibrachoa bloom most abundantly in bright sun, but these plants look good in partial shade.
Calibrachoa is best planted in a loose nutrient soil and provide the plant with regular watering and fertilizing, avoiding moisture stagnation.

Pictured: Calibrachoa blooming in a hanging basket; rooted cuttings of calibrachoa

These "three heroes" are rooted and planted cuttings of calibrachoa. They do well in their pots, but require pinching to form a branched bush. I'll trim them over the fifth pair of leaves. New branches will soon form under the cut point, and the cut off top can be rooted and a new plant can be obtained.

To obtain a cutting, we cut off or pinch off the lower leaves of the caliber of the twig to expose the trunk. At the top we leave a few leaves for photosynthesis. Large leaves at the cutting can be cut in half to avoid excessive moisture loss.

In the photo: getting a cutting of calibrachoa from a cut twig

AT winter time and in early spring, cuttings of plants take root worse than in summer. Therefore, to insure against failure and speed up the process of rooting cuttings, I will resort to help (this procedure is not necessary).
I dissolve 4 drops of "Epin" in a glass of water (200 ml) and send the cuttings to swim in the solution for 20 minutes.

We do the same manipulations with petunia cuttings. We cut the cuttings so that at least two or three internodes remain on them. We expose the trunk, leaving the crown, and send the cuttings to swim in the solution with Epin.

Rooting flower cuttings in peat tablets

If you have the opportunity to root cuttings in peat tablets, root in them. Almost one hundred percent survival is guaranteed. A is pure pleasure. It is easy to maintain the desired humidity, it is easy to transplant plants. Peat tablets are a wonderful invention of mankind!

Before planting the cutting, soak the peat tablet for 20 minutes in clean water, then slightly squeeze out excess moisture and make a recess in it. To do this, you can use a toothpick.
Gently insert the cutting into the recess and lightly squeeze the tablet.

In the photo: with a toothpick we make a recess in a peat tablet; stalk planted in a peat pellet

It remains to place the tablet with the handle in a homemade greenhouse of two transparent cups. Rooting cuttings needed high humidity and light.
If there are several rooted cuttings, peat tablets with them can be placed in a common bowl and covered with a transparent lid or film (but so that the tops of the cuttings do not touch them).

In the lid of an impromptu greenhouse, I always make a hole for the evaporation of condensate. This allows you to get rid of the work of repeated ventilation of the cuttings. Looks like this.

In the photo: a stalk of calibrachoa takes root in a mini-greenhouse with a hole; petunia stalk planted in light soil

If there are no peat tablets, cuttings can be rooted in light soil. I mix ready flower soil with or coconut fiber in a ratio of 50:50. Such additives make the soil loose, but retain moisture and let air through.

Rooting flower cuttings in light soil

For an example of rooting in the ground, take a prepared petunia stalk and carefully place it in soil mix. The soil should be moist, but not squishy, ​​and the leaves should not come into contact with the ground. So we will avoid possible troubles in the form of rot.
It is a good idea to treat the soil before planting cuttings from fungi and bacteria with suitable preparations ("", "Previkur", "Maxim", etc.).

We also close the planted petunia stalk with a glass-greenhouse with a hole and put it in a bright place.
Now our task for the next week is to remember the pets 2-3 times a day and lightly spray the leaves of the cuttings. It is important! Until the roots are formed, the plant only drinks through the leaves. No water - no life.

If on the fifth or sixth day the planted stalk looks cheerful, and its leaves have not lost turgor (elasticity), then you are doing everything right, and the root formation process has started.

After another week, rooted cuttings begin to grow new fresh leaves; through the walls of the glass or peat tablet their roots are shown.

The photo below shows that the stalk of calibrachoa is already rooted. And the petunia stalk, two weeks later, not only formed roots, but also released buds.
However, if the roots are not yet visible, and the cutting is about to bloom, then it is better to pinch off the buds - let the plant spend its energy on root formation.

Luxurious beauty Calibrachoa captivates the eye and wins hearts with a scattering of an incredible number of flowers. Due to the abundant flowering, the plant has gained great popularity among flower growers.

To grow caliberchoa, you have to put in a lot of work, but the beauty of the plant will pay off all the effort expended.

Incredible beauty calibrachoa and its types

South American Calibrachoa parviflora is a perennial subshrub and belongs to the nightshade family. Until 1990, she was considered a representative of the petunia genus. Thanks to the genetic studies carried out, the flowering plant was isolated in a separate genus Calibrachoa.

Novice flower growers confuse calibrachoa with its closest relative. However, between them there significant differences. small narrow leaves calibrachoa have a lanceolate shape, and all the greenery of the plant is covered with small hard villi. Calibrachoa leaves are attached to long branching stems, which become woody as they grow, becoming strong and strong.

Calibrachoa gained its popularity due to the abundance of flowers on its bush. Miniature, gramophone-like flowers of the plant reach only 3 cm in diameter. However, they small size more than pays off with lush flowering. Calibrachoa blooms so profusely that sometimes from under her bright hat "gramophones" you can hardly see the green foliage.

Natural color of flowers calibrachoa - purple. However, through the efforts of breeders, many varieties have been bred with a wide variety of colors and shades of flowers. From early spring to mid-autumn, orange, white, crimson, pink, yellow, red, burgundy and variegated caliberhoa flowers can be seen in the gardens.

Calibrachoa flowers bloom in the axils of the leaves or at the tips of the shoots. In the center of the flowers there is a crescent-shaped yellow throat, which distinguishes them from petunia flowers. Calibrachoa flowers are decorated with a bright contrasting core, which makes the inflorescences even more charming.

Currently, there are many hybrids of calibrachoa, the number of which is in the hundreds. Among them are the most famous varietal series:

• A million bells, called in Latin Million Bells- This is the most popular Calibrachoa series, which includes 18 varieties with red, cherry, lilac-violet, raspberry, lemon yellow, pink-lilac and other shades.
• Super Bells or in Latin Super Wells- a varietal group that includes 7 varieties with flowers of purple, red and apricot hues.
• Cabaret, called in Latin Cabaret- a series of 12 varieties of plants, among which calibrachoa with deep yellow flowers are especially beautiful.
• Noah or in Latin noah- a series consisting of 6 varieties of semi-ampel calibrachoa with blue, lilac, purple and yellow flowers.

Features of care

Calibrachoa is grown as ampelous plant in hanging pots or baskets. It decorates interiors, balconies, verandas and terraces. By planting several varieties of calibrachoa in one container, you can create a fantastic arrangement.

Although caliberchoa is a perennial, it almost never does not set seeds. Therefore, in order to prolong her life, flower growers keep her mother shoots all winter for subsequent reproduction.

Site selection and lighting

A wind-sheltered balcony or veranda is perfect place to grow a plant.

Lots of sun and warmth main condition for abundant flowering caliberchoa.

Intermittent rain and light winds are unable to damage its flowery waterfall due to the sturdy stems of Calibrachoa.

But strong wind and lingering rain can break shoots and disheveled delicate flowers. Therefore, in bad weather, you should bring the plant into the house or cover it well.

Watering and humidity

Calibrachoa is very sensitive to waterlogging of the soil. It should be watered under the root as the earth dries up. For irrigation, it is recommended to use water heated in the sun.

In hot weather, water Calibrachoa little by little 3 times a day. Important point - The soil when watering should be moist, but not wet.

Calibrachoa loves daily spraying, which can be carried out up to three times a day. However, it is recommended to pamper the beauty with a fine spray, making sure that large drops of water do not form on the plant.

The soil

Experienced flower growers do not advise use garden soil for growing caliberchoa, which is heavy for the plant. It does not dry out for a long time and is compressed into lumps, which can lead to plant disease.

For Calibrachoa perfect fit light purchased soil based on peat. You can purchase a universal, flower or bio-primer.

Good drainage with a layer of about 5 cm of gravel or expanded clay is another condition for the formation of a lush bush of calibrachoa.

When choosing the size of the pot, it should be borne in mind that one plant bush needs from 3 to 4 liters of land.

rest period

Calibrachoa is a perennial plant. However, it is grown as an annual, since in the second year it no longer blooms as profusely as we would like. Still faded in autumn the bush is not thrown away, but left for the winter, from which cuttings are cut at any time for propagation.

In autumn, the bush is brought into the room and kept until spring in a cool room with a temperature of 5 to 10 ° C. During the dormant period the plant needs high humidity and moderate watering. Fertilizing the plant at this time should be stopped.

top dressing

Feed Calibrachoa should alternately organic and mineral fertilizers once a week. For abundant flowering, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen must be present in the composition of the fertilizer. If the plant is stunted, it is recommended to feed it with a growth stimulator.

Bush formation

Calibrachoa flowers, blooming, last about 7 days. After withering, they should be removed so as not to interfere with the laying of numerous new buds. Fight this problem pruning helps and pinching shoots. After such procedures, the plant begins to branch more actively and after a week again pleases with an abundant scattering of bright flowers.

reproduction

Calibrachoa propagated by cuttings taken from mother plant, all year round. At the same time, the planting material should be provided with a temperature of 21 to 24 ° C and additional illumination in winter.

The cutting procedure is as follows:

• Must be cut from the mother plant apical cuttings with 4 or 6 leaves left on them.
• Then it is necessary to leave only the top two leaves on the handle, removing the rest.
• Next, you need to plant the cuttings in the ground, deepening them by about a quarter of the length, at a distance of about 2 cm from each other. It is also important to remember that cuttings should be deepened immediately after cutting, as after an hour they may lose their ability to root.
• After that, the seedlings should be placed under the "greenhouse", providing them with regular spraying and a temperature of 21 to 24 ° C. It is important to protect soil from waterlogging.
• Then, after two weeks, the cuttings can be transplanted into separate containers, removing the "greenhouse". When transplanting, it is necessary pinch the tops of young shoots for better branching.
• A month and a half later young calibrachoa can be transplanted into permanent flowerpots.

powdery mildew() is expressed as a whitish coating on flowers and leaves. The reason is humidity in the hot season, sudden changes in temperature. Solution - the affected part of the plant must be removed, and the rest treated with sulfur.

Chlorosis can be identified by rare flowering and pale yellow leaves. The reason is the high content of calcium and lack of iron in the soil, hard water for irrigation, waterlogging of the soil. The solution is to feed the plant with a fertilizer containing iron and set up moderate watering.

Also, with improper care, the following problems may occur:

• Leaves turn yellow - low temperature air, lack of iron in the soil, frequent watering.
• Leaves curl and dry- dry air, poor lighting.
• Lower leaves turning yellow- waterlogging, lack of nitrogen in the soil, a small amount of land.

As we see, beauty calibrachoa not as capricious in care as it seems. A little attention, love and care - and flower waterfalls will bloom on your balcony, strewn with a continuous carpet of small bright "gramophones".

For a long time I have been eyeing such an exquisite and magnificent flower as calibrachoa, very similar, at first glance, to a petunia. It is still not often found on our summer cottages: either because of the high cost, or because it is rarely seen on sale. It was given to me by a friend a year ago. She warned me that it was possible to keep it in the winter, which, of course, I had little faith in. Actually, he originally from South America and is unlikely to be able to spend the winter in our harsh conditions of the Moscow region, I thought. But the passion for experimentation won out and my calibrachoa overwintered in the basement and thus became perennial which I was incredibly happy about. But more about everything.

Varieties of Calibrachoa. Its difference from petunia

Calibrachoa - ampelous flower with long falling branches, strewn with small bright flowers. It looks beautiful not only in the garden in a suspended state, but also on a balcony, an open gazebo, a veranda. I am sure that a little more time will pass, and the flower will gain extraordinary popularity in Russia.

By its form Calibrachoa flowers are very reminiscent of petunia flowers. However, they are much smaller - no more than 2-3 cm in diameter. This flower size is a real advantage, because many bells bloom on one bush of the plant. In connection with this very famous variety calibrachoa became variety Million Bells.

If we continue to compare calibrachoa with petunia, then it should be noted that caliberchoa is more cold-resistant and little susceptible to serious diseases. Besides, small flowers caliberchoa after withering are completely invisible against the general background flowering bush, while faded petunia flowers hang like old rags. The stems and leaves of caliberchoa are more rigid, and the branches of some species can reach one and a half meters.

The history of calibrachoa is such that until 1990 it was assigned to the genus Petunia. But after genetic research, it turned out that petunia and caliberhoa are absolutely genetically different plants: petunias have 14 chromosomes, while caliberhoa have 18.

The purple color of calibrachoa is characteristic of flowers found in nature. However, breeders have bred a variety of varieties with a variety of colors. One of the most popular varieties is Kabloom with bright blue flowers of different shades. This variety is characterized by miniature sizes - 35-40 cm and good seed germination.

Among the terry representatives of calibrachoa, a variety stands out with different shades color pink - Mini Famous Double Pink with a branch length of 60-70 cm. Terry hybrids have their own peculiarity - their cuttings take root well even in a container of water.

Another group of varieties is the group Bells a wide variety of colors and branch lengths up to one meter.

reproduction

Calibrachoa can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Tried both methods: nothing worked. Later I read on the Internet that the seeds of this flower have very poor germination. Since there were only three seeds in bags of caliberchoa seeds, there is no need to talk about any results.

Advice - do not waste your money, but rather buy an adult flowering plant and draw it.

The method of propagation by cuttings is the most common. You cut off a cutting from the mother plant, plant it in fertile soil, create greenhouse conditions for it and wait for the roots to form. Obviously, my mistake was that I rooted weakened cuttings that I recently brought from the basement in the spring. Perhaps the summer or autumn rooting of already established plants will be more successful. It is best to cut the plant at the beginning of autumn, so that by the new season it will show itself in all its glory.

Landing and care

Calibrachoa is a sun-loving and heat-loving plant, therefore Will thrive in full sun. Otherwise, you can not wait for flowers at all. Plants grow well on loose fertile soils, That's why take care of good soil.

Calibrachoa loves water very much. Wherein watering should be moderate under the root as the soil dries up, but regular. Loosening the soil for a flower is a must. Make sure the water doesn't stagnate. The plant loves spraying, after which the flowers do not lose their original appearance.

Top dressing was carried out regularly with complex fertilizer throughout the summer approximately every two weeks.

To preserve the plant, planting or transshipment must be carried out annually in a new, sufficiently voluminous pot.

winter storage

As I already wrote, calibrachoa in conditions middle lane Russia is considered annual plant. However, contrary to this statement, I managed to keep it in the winter. In the autumn in mid-October, I cut its branches to about 10 cm, moistened the soil in a pot and put it in the basement. Since I have rather high humidity there and the air temperature does not rise above 10 degrees, I did not have to additionally moisten the soil. So the plant was stored until mid-February. Then I brought him into the apartment. He looked very pitiful. Honestly, I thought that the flower would not survive at all. By mid-February he small new whitish shoots appeared. You can clearly see it in the photo I took.

The diseased appearance of Calibrachoa was caused by the lack of light in the basement. However, the plant in the light very quickly gained desired shape, began to actively branch and grow.

The weather at the beginning of summer was very cold, so the caliberhoa was taken to the dacha only by the end of June. However, in the cold weather of July, the flower grew, but there was no hint of flowering. Frustrated, I thought that I would no longer experiment with winter storage. It seems that I was heard by the plant, and the caliberchoa slowly bloomed by mid-August. The lush bloom of this magnificent flower continued into September.

Findings: flowering was affected by unfavorable weather summer 2017. The experiment with the preservation of caliberchoa in the winter will continue already at home, because I read that the plant can be kept warm at home. At the same time, feeding should be reduced to a minimum or not fed at all to the plant, but only regularly watered and be sure to spray. They say that dry air can be fatal, so the plant should be placed away from the battery or other heating devices.

Diseases and pests

• Calibrachoa is sometimes attacked by thrips, spider mite, whiteflies and aphids. The advice in the fight against these pests is simple - treat the bush with an appropriate insecticide. If they do not die, then re-treatment should be carried out after one week.
• High humidity can lead to fungal disease like a black leg, when the base of the flower turns black and softens, and then the stem can completely break and die. As a rule, this fungal disease young plants are exposed. In this case, the plant must be treated antifungal drugs and establish proper watering.
• Rarely, but still it happens that a flower becomes ill with another fungal disease - powdery mildew. Part of the diseased plant is removed, and the rest is treated with sulfur.
• Chlorosis in caliberchoa is treated with complex fertilizers, as it occurs due to a lack of essential nutrients in the soil.

Little, beautiful shape, various colors of calibrachoa will surely gain popularity in our Russian garden plots, despite its high cost. I am sure that those who bought it at least once and admired its beauty in the garden all summer long will return and return to this amazing flower. Hope my conservation experience calibrachoa in winter useful to many gardeners, and this wonderful ampelous plant will take its rightful place in the garden. Don't be afraid to experiment and grow new plants!